Connect

CONNECT: After the Slide, Navigating Grief and Loss Post-Avalanche

In April of 2020, Anna lost her friend in an avalanche while the two were splitboarding Mt. Taylor. In the wake of the accident, Anna utilized the AAC’s Climbing Grief Fund to find accessible mental health care and connect with others who were grappling with similar trauma from accidents in the mountains.

In this episode, we sat down with Anna to have a profoundly raw and elegant conversation about her experience of the accident, how the trauma of the avalanche changed her relationship to backcountry snowboarding and skiing culture, reflections on the toxic narratives of shame and blame that often still persist around outdoor tragedies, and her personal journey as she learns (and continues learning) to navigate her post-avalanche world.




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The Art of Bailing

In this installment of our Grassroots series, we share the story of two AAC members pushing their personal limits. If you're an AAC member and want to see your climbing story featured, send an email with a brief description to [email protected] for a chance to share your story!

Camden Lyon walking along a large crevasse on Nevado Pisco. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By: Sierra McGivney

Camden and Torsten Lyon were cold, so cold that cold didn’t feel cold anymore. Their fingers were frozen and ice covered their face as the sun rose. In the Peruvian morning, the two stood at camp having returned from attempting to summit Huascaran (22,205 ft) the highest mountain in Peru. 

“You could see the shadow of the curve of the earth projected into the stratosphere. I think we were both too miserable to enjoy it,” said Camden as he laughed.


13-year-old Camden on Capitol Peak’s iconic knife edge. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

The first thing that you should know about Torsten and Camden is that Torsten is Camden's father. Camden has been backpacking and bagging fourteeners for as long as he can remember. At the age of four Torsten began involving Camden in the planning process. He showed Camden where they were on the map and where they needed to go. Even though Camden doesn’t remember those trips well, something stuck. 

“Growing up in Colorado, the mountains are as much a part of me as my hand or foot. Nowhere, not even in my own living room, am I more at home than the side of a cliff, a windswept summit, or a towering glacier,” said Camden. 

13-year-old Camden ascending the Peakrly Gates on Mt. Hood. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

So it was not all too surprising when an 11-year-old Camden approached Torsten about a trip to the Cordillera Blanca. He put together a list of skills he had and skills he needed, and a multi-year plan to acquire the skills needed to climb peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Torsten said yes—and the two set out on a multi-year plan. They climbed Mount Hood, multiple snow climbs in the North Cascades and Colorado (Grizzly couloir), the Exum Ridge on Grand Teton, and the Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainer. COVID-19 slowed them down but also allowed them time to acquire more skills and experience. The two were set to head to Peru in the summer of 2022 until Torsten fell skiing and tore his meniscus. 

That didn’t stop them. They had set a goal and were willing to work around the obstacles in their way. Torsten had knee surgery and three weeks later he was back training for their trip and hiked Square Top Mountain all with the approval of his doctor. They decided to push their trip back a couple of weeks and acclimatize in Colorado. 


PERU

One flight from Denver to Lima, Peru, and a nine-hour bus ride later, Camden and Torsten arrived at their hotel in the town of Huaraz. Donned in pounds of gear and giddy nervous excitement, the two awaited their guide, Edgar. They had been communicating with each other via email and google translate. 

Nevado Chopicalqui and the peaks of Nevado Huacaran tower above the Refugio Pisco. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

“So he does show up, which we didn’t know if he would,” said Torsten.

Edgar suggested that they try to climb Pisco (18,871ft) since it’s a relatively easy mountain and the dry season started late that year. Torsten and Camden planned to climb Pisco without Edgar and meet back up with him the following Wednesday on a certain switchback. By 5 am on Monday, the two were off to start their grand Cordillera Blanca adventure.  

Pisco set the precedent for how climbing in Peru would go. Based on guidebooks written 20 or 30 years ago, Pisco was supposed to be 45 degrees or less with minimal crevasse danger. When Torsten and Camden set crampons on the snow Monday morning they found 50-degree angle snow climbing and big crevasses. The glacier along the ridge was fractured off both sides. The silence and wind whipped past them as they soloed up the mountain. Sixty feet below the summit they stopped and turned around. They just didn’t have the right gear for the unexpected conditions. 

Descending from the summit ridge of Nevado Yanapaccha with Nevado Chacraraju in the distance. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

“For the third day [there]... on a mountain 5,000 feet higher than I’ve ever been, I was alright with it,” says Camden.

 At a junction in the road, Torsten and Camden met with Edgar that Wednesday. As they traveled to the other side of the valley to climb Yanapaccha they conducted a dual interview. Both parties seemed happy with the outcome. Edgar was stoked that the two were competent climbers.

Yanapaccha, their next objective, has a standard route and a harder route. Unfortunately, the glacier on the mountain has receded significantly in the last 20 or 30 years and left giant seracs above the standard route. Edgar suggested they veer away from the cornice and climb the harder line. Three pitches of hard alpine climbing later, they stood on the summit. 

Back in town, Edgar informed them that someone had successfully climbed Huascaran that year. The thing about Huascaran is that it’s a relatively easy mountain with a lot of high objective danger.

“It’s a roll of the dice,” said Torsten. 

Nevado Chopicalqui (20,847), Huascaran Sur (22,205), and Huascaran Norte (21,865) in the morning alpenglow, taken from the west face of Nevado Yanapaccha (17,913).

Avalanches and serac falls are common. So, over a meal, Torsten and Camden discussed the climb. They researched and read about past events and the frequency of avalanches and ice falls during that time of the season. The two generally prefer harder terrain with less objective hazard. This was the opposite. 

“I know for me, being a climber, and also a parent, I wanted to just take a little time to like, [discuss] do you want to do this or not?” said Torsten. 

They decided to go for it. At base camp, they waited in the cold for Edgar to get ready. Unfortunately with the language barrier, they had gotten ready and taken down camp before Edgar woke up. They watched as two climbers from Boulder, Colorado, passed them. 

Crossing through the dangerous terrain below active seracs. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

Toes frozen in their boots they began the long walk upwards. As they climbed through the snow-filled basin after the first pitch of climbing, avalanche debris came into view. The two climbers from Boulder had been swept 300 feet on the second pitch and rode the avalanche until they stopped right before the pour-over. 

“I had no idea what was happening. I thought I was going to die. It wasn’t funny,” said one of the Boulder climbers to the trio. 

Suddenly the air was eery. Below the summit, Torsten started to develop altitude sickness and the team decided to turn around. They slept a couple of hours and then descended back down to 15,000 feet past camp one. Neither Torsten nor Camden was upset about not summiting. 

“We were really happy to be safely off the mountain and I think we both cared a lot less about having missed the summit,” said Camden. 

They passed a group of climbers from Poland headed up Hauscran as they made their way back down to Huaraz. Between camps one and two, serac falls hit the climbers from Poland. luckily they all lived. 


ISHINCA VALLEY

In nine days' time, Torsten and Camden planned to climb four big mountains: Nevado Ishinca (18,143ft), Urus (17,792ft), Ranrapalca (20,217ft), and Tocllaraju (19,797ft). At this point, Torsten and Camden were confident that they could climb certain mountains and get to high camps without Edgar. 

Camden belaying one of the final pitches on Nevado Ranrapalca. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

“It’s more like our guide was a paid climbing partner that carried the extra rope and climbed all of the hard pitches,” said Camden. 

The two climbed Urus and Nevado Ishinca with no problem. Ranrapalca proved to be a “wicked hard mountain.”

Five pitches of AI3 and M3 climbing in the dark and two pitches watching the sunrise led to a lovely summit. It proved to be a challenge as the two had little to no experience in mixed or technical ice climbing and the climbing was steep. 

“If you look at a constant angle up, you can't see the stars because it gets so steep. It was just really intimidating,” said Camden.

Once down from the summit Camden and Torsten checked their Inreach to find that bad weather was approaching. They stashed gear and took a rest day and then it became a mad dash to climb Tocllaraju before bad weather moved in. 

Taken on the descent from their hardest summit, Nevado Ranrapalca.

They climbed the standard route which ends 400 feet below the summit. A giant snow mushroom formed by the wind blocks the route to the summit. Camden asked his dad to put him on belay and traversed out to see if there was a route around. He saw a clear path but it was late in the afternoon and they were the only ones on the mountain. Torsten belayed him back in and they descended. 

“There were some great decisions in not going for those summits,” said Torsten. 


COLORADO

Exploring the ridge above Ranrapalca high camp with Nevado Tocllaraju in the background. PC: AAC Member Torsten Lyon.

The two made it safely back to Colorado narrowly missing the political unrest in Peru. Upon returning from Peru the two explored the American Alpine Club Library located in Golden, CO. They got lost in guidebooks written 30-50 years ago about the Cordillera Blanca— comparing conditions, climbs, and peaks to their experience. 

The trip was a culmination of their climbing skills that they worked forward. They laid the foundation and built climbing and decision-making skills to minimize the risks in big mountain climbing. Now that they have a foundation of skills, they are prepared for new adventures in faraway places like the Canadian Rockies or the Alps, or in their backyard in the Colorado Rockies. You can find Camden studying maps and guidebooks for their next great adventure. 


The Ultimate Freelancer

Member Spotlight: Lauren DeLaunay Miller

by Hannah Provost

AAC member Drew Smith

Many of our members have a unique relationship with the Club, finding their niche and contributing in their own way. Lauren DeLaunay Miller describes her role with the AAC as “the ultimate freelancer position.” Lauren’s contributions to the Club seem endless: she was a sound engineer and editor for The Cutting Edge Podcast and the American Alpine Club Podcast, the California editor for the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Climbing, and an event coordinator for the Bishop Highball Craggin’ Classic. In addition, she’s spent three summers working for Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) and is the editor of the newly released anthology Valley of Giants: Stories from Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing. We sat down to talk with Lauren about her time at YOSAR, her book, and the story behind her love of the AAC.

Connect: Life on the Edge of Climbing and Motherhood, with pro Majka Burhardt

Majka Burhardt is a pro climber, a certified climbing guide, a conservation entrepreneur running an international organization, and a writer. She is also a mother to twins, and she’s still figuring it all out. She’s leaning into messy coherence, and learning how to be the best mom, climber, spouse, professional, and guide along the way. Her new book, MORE: Life on the Edge of Adventure and Motherhood is a compilation of in-the-moment journals and voice memos Majka recorded while she was pregnant and during the first five years of her children’s lives—recording the raw messiness of wanting to do it all, and even then asking for more…of life, and of herself. Along the way, she takes an honest look at risk and motherhood, gender roles, navigating jealousy, her work, her marriage, climbing hard with the changes her body experienced, and giving her children her best and highest self. Majka’s book More identifies the ways that life seeps into our climbing and is intricately tied into it. We talk about all this and more in this episode.

The book is on the March Must-Read List from Next Big Idea, and you definitely want to get your hands on a copy.




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The Foundation of Our Progress

Volunteer Spotlight: BIPOC Initiatives at AAC Twin Cities

by Rodel Querubin

A climber of color ice climbs above Lake Michigan.

PC: AAC member Rodel Querubin

One of our dedicated volunteers from the AAC Twin Cities Chapter, Rodel Querubin reflects on his incredible success in building an (ever growing) BIPOC climbing community there, as well as lessons learned from the process of growing his initiative. Querubin’s analysis of the intentional and thoughtful programming that the Twin Cities Chapter has rolled out over the last few years is an informative roadmap for the climbing world as we work toward being the most inclusive community we can be.

It's All Water

A Story from Climb United

by Holly Yu Tung Chen

teaching how to drill bolt for sport climbing, anchors

PC: AAC member Lam Thuy Vo

In 2020, a web developer named Melissa Utomo was thrust into the spotlight when her work to eliminate oppressive and racist route names became a hotly debated topic in the climbing community. That same summer, Climb United’s very first project was the Route Name Task Force (RNTF), designed to facilitate the conversation about oppressive vs. offensive route names amongst the thought leaders on this topic and guidebook authors and first ascentionists. In this article, Holly Yu Tung Chen interviews the key players, takes the pulse on where oppressive route naming is now, and how leaders like Utomo are going even further than route naming, and creating opportunities for more women and BIPOC climbers to route develop and first ascent on their own terms.

We've Signed the Indigenous Field Guide, Here's Why

PC: Dawn Kish. Recreating at Oak Flat, land sacred to the San Carlos Apache Tribe.

When we were first asked to sign the Indigenous Field Guide pledge, we as an organization were challenged by how broad many of the tenets were, and how they were inconsistent with many of the current practices of climbers today. While some of the tenets of the pledge ring familiar with Leave No Trace Ethics, such as respecting rock art and staying on trails, other elements of the pledge—such as refraining from rock stacking, or seeking permission to share geographic locations from local Tribes—initially led us to a place of defensiveness. However, we also recognized this reaction should be seen as an impetus to really examine what the pact meant, and why we were reacting in this way.

The AAC has decided to sign onto the pledge, and we’re happy to share why.

Coming from a perspective of Western thought, we are accustomed to taking pacts such as these literally, assigning truth to every word, and were thus afraid we would be signing it performatively. We feared that we would not be able to fully comply with the pact, and instead would continue the pattern of broken promises experienced by Indigenous Tribes since the days of early settlers.

However, through multiple and overlapping conversations with the writers of the Indigenous Field Guide, we came to understand the spirit of the pledge and the value of committing to it despite our hesitations. Fear of failing would only prevent us from growing.

For example, we learned through various discussions with the writers of the pledge that the deepest importance of the imperative to seek permission before sharing coordinates is about protecting undefended Indigenous archeological and cultural sites that are as yet unrecognized or do not have conservation protections. This imperative is a manifestation of the last and most comprehensive directive from the Indigenous Field Guide writers: “I promise that exploration and first ascents are never more important than cultural resources.”

The AAC has a long-standing practice of publishing GPS coordinates of new routes in order to fulfill our mission of supporting and informing climbers. In fact, the sharing of GPS coordinates seemed a step in the direction of inclusion, so that no one developer or elite climber would “hoard” or gate-keep knowledge of a particular climbing area and make climbing that much less accessible for many people. Yet we had not considered how in certain cases, such sharing of coordinates can threaten areas of cultural significance to Indigenous peoples, with increased traffic threatening the spirituality of the sacred place, increasing erosion, and increasing potential defacement. 

In addition, we learned that the request to not stack rocks is not a ban on cairns, but rather a way to highlight that the land should be as untouched as possible, and remain exactly as it is, unless steps are necessary (such as marking a trail in wilderness areas) in order to accomplish that goal of minimal impact. Specifically, balancing rocks and creating rock gardens in rivers and streams can destroy fish habitats in the immediate vicinity and downstream. 

We as an organization have signed the Indigenous Field Guide Pledge and have started examining how we can transform our internal practices to align with what we have learned. By committing to the pledge, we are committing to staying in the conversation as we move forward collectively. What does that look like for us, the AAC?

  • We continue to encourage climbers to be conscientious of their impacts on land and people.

  • Moving forward, the American Alpine Club strongly encourages grant applicants to consider the locations of their pursuits, and when possible to seek out consent from local Tribes before climbing and before publicly sharing coordinates. For many of the grants, having the endorsement of local Tribes will be a condition for the grant to be awarded. 

  • In cases where publication of coordinates might draw large numbers of new visitors to an area, the editors will urge contributors to our publications to consult with local Tribal leaders about the sensitivity of the area and any potential impacts.

We encourage our members and community to learn more here and to sign the pledge for themselves, if they likewise see value in holding themselves accountable to learning and recreating with this context of Indigenous knowledge. 

Guidebook X

The AAC’s Guidebook is our annual storytelling publication, capturing the stories of the people and issues that are at the forefront of the climbing communities mind. AAC members receive a print copy annually.

In this issue, we feature the filmography of up-and-coming director Marie-Louise Nkashama, explore the prolific history of route developer Jeff Jackson, investigate how groups on the ground are making climbing more inclusive, and highlight the story of an AAC volunteer who has given so much back to the community through YOSAR and storytelling.

Our feature articles do a deep dive into the AAC’s work to protect Pine Mountain, CA, from deforestation; retell the story of cutting-edge expeditions to Proboscis; highlight the intricacies of the conversation around oppressive and offensive route naming; and reminisce about the first successful climbing expedition to the Antarctic.

From cutting-edge climbing stories, to public lands, inclusive climbing community, and just plain cool climbers, you can find the breadth of the climbing community in these pages.

The AAC Podcast Wants Your Craziest Climbing Stories!

Photo by AAC member Joe Virtanen

Have you ever taken a 100-foot fall into a cactus, and walked away with basically no injuries? Taken a whip on a can of pinto beans, just to see what would happen? Or had to deal with a bullet wound while out climbing, like Aubrey Runyon discusses in our recent podcast episode “CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 Pitches in Eldo”? Maybe it’s the biggest whip you almost had to take, or an encounter with an alpine ghost…whatever it is, we want to hear the stories of your craziest day while climbing.

We’re not necessarily asking for your worst crag stories ever, or stories of accidents in the backcountry, though that might be wrapped up in all the crazy. But tell us the most absurd, completely out-there stories that you can think of, and we might feature your story on our podcast!

One of our episodes in January will feature the stories of AAC community members like you. Make sure to submit your stories before January 1st 2023 to get the chance to be featured.

Climb United

Building community at the AAC’s Craggin Classic

United We Climb

Every Fall, the American Alpine Club hosts the Craggin Classic, a climbing festival at world-class climbing destinations in the United States. Participants dance wearing glow sticks at night and climb all day. This year the Craggin Classic held Climb United meetups at all locations, creating a safe and welcoming community for everyone.

Climb United works to uplift traditionally marginalized groups in the climbing community. Through intentional programs like the Route Naming Task Force, the Climb United Affiliate Support Network, and the Pull Focus Grant, Climb United is working towards change within the climbing community to welcome all groups. Climb United is all about gaining new perspectives from others to create a more accessible, loving, climbing community.

Take a look at the Moab, New River Gorge, Smith Rock, and Shelf Road CU meetups!

Climbing United

Mountain Goat Movement

An AAC member gives back to his community after receiving the Live Your Dream Grant.

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By: Sierra McGivney

There is nothing like watching the sunrise over the mountains, the whole world still sleeping. Pinks and deep oranges color the sky. On clear and quiet days, the temperature is coldest near or slightly after sunrise. Warm coffee, hot chocolate, or tea is always welcome during this time. 

After years inside, these moments feel more special. All the lives lost and time stolen because of the pandemic make time spent outside invaluable to begin healing. At Mountain Goat Movement (MGM), explorers and teachers show students moments like these and the value of nature through outdoor adventures. 

Morrisey speaking at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Gala in 2018.

For ten years, Greg Morrisey was a high school teacher at Saint Peter’s Preparatory in Jersey City, NJ. He spent the school year building an outdoor education program and the summer going on expeditions. In 2017 Morrisey won the American Alpine Club’s Live Your Dream Grant and completed an unsupported 1,800-mile cycling trip with one of his fellow teachers. In addition, that expedition raised $40,000 for low-income students to come on trips with Morrisey’s outdoor education program.

“That funded about 15 kids, and it was kind of crazy,” says Morrisey.  

Morrisey was asked to speak at the AAC’s Annual Gala alongside Vanessa O'Brien that year. The grant changed his life. 


In June of 2022, Morrisey quit teaching. He took the model he created at Saint Peter’s Preparatory and turned it into Mountain Goat Movement, a program that reaches out to schools primarily in populated cities or suburban areas in New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Maryland, to get students into the outdoors. 

Two MGM participants in the Adirondacks, New York. PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

“It's easy in Colorado, Wyoming, and Upstate New York to just walk out your backyard, and go for a beautiful hike, but it's difficult in the greater New York City area so we're trying to rally a community to get in the outdoors and provide resources for anyone and everyone who wants to experience the beauty of nature,” says Morrisey. 

After teaching during COVID-19, Morrisey realized how fractured life was for young people. Students have been on an island these past couple of years and reintegrating into school and society has been a shock to their system. 

Like the true literature teacher he is, Morrisey explains that outdoor adventures are much like the hero’s tale in Western Literature. A young person goes out on an epic quest, leaving their comfort zone, to battle figurative monsters and demons and comes home transformed. Morrisey gives presentations at school about the mental health benefits that can be derived from spending time in nature. He compares it to the hero's journey: Wherever you are, high school or college, you are not that much different than the characters you are reading about. 

A MGM group on the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Unlike Outward Bound or NOLS where participants rarely see their guides again, MGM brings the student’s teachers on the trip. The idea behind MGM is to build connections outdoors and be able to bring that back to the classroom instead of having a one-off trip. In addition, Morrisey hopes that this can also start a conversation about mental health in the classroom and how venturing into the outdoors can benefit mental health for people of all ages. Morrisey goes on every trip to train the student’s teachers with the hope that they can lead their own trips using this model. 

“I think when you're on an expedition or a multi-day experience, and you break bread with people, share tents, hike, and do everything together, it's inevitable that you're going to become close,” says Morrisey. “So taking that experience and then coming back home and building off that is the most beautiful part of all this.”

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Students who might not have ever talked or met suddenly have bonded with one another and become lifelong friends. 

Last July, Morrisey took a group to Kilimanjaro. His whole group summited and watched the sunrise from the top. Everyone cried. Evidently, the softer moments in the outdoors allow for meaningful relationships to form. 

“It's been a very rewarding process of working with young people in the outdoors and teaching kids how to climb, hike, ski, and get outside,” says Morrisey. 

Participants don’t have to travel out of the country to have these experiences. Mountain Goat Movement offers domestic trips like climbing the Grand Teton or hiking all 46 high peaks in the Adirondacks. They do also offer an extensive amount of international trips to Kilimajaro, Costa Rica, and the Himalayas. 

The name behind MGM is intentional. Mountain goats are always trying to seek higher ground to survive. And just like mountain goats, whenever MGM takes participants outside, they try to achieve something higher within themselves while also respecting and protecting the land they tread on. Movement relates to being present outside, off your phone, and also moving as a community. 

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

The positive effects of this type of program are evident. Morrisey has seen participants who came up through his program become ice climbers, environmental scientists, and AAC members, but most of all more confident explorers and adventurers in the outdoors and in life.  

“[the AAC] has always been super supportive and one of the reasons why we're able to start the foundation was because of the Live Your Dream grant, so I feel like the AAC has just done absolute wonders for a lot of kids in New York City without them actually realizing it,” says Morrisey. 

He is excited to expand and watch MGM grow. John Barnhardt, a filmmaker known for the Amazon Prime TV Show Born to Explore is joining MGM. He will be documenting their experiences on all seven continents for the next year. Morrisey is looking forward to having him join the team and help get the word out. 

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Just like mountain goats, we too can learn and adapt to our environment, mentally and physically. Movement in the outdoors has immense benefits. If you want to get involved or go on a trip with MGM visit their website here.

CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 Pitches in Eldo

Aubrey Runyon just climbed her 10,000th pitch in Eldorado Canyon—an area known for being sandbagged with sketchy gear—the bulk of which she did in the last 6 years. She’s had over 70 unique partners on the climb Rewritten alone, she knows ALL the gear beta to every climb…it’s honestly no wonder she’s frequently referred to as “The Mayor of Eldo.” In this episode, we sat down with Aubrey (who besides being a badass is also a volunteer for the AAC) to discuss completing her unusual goal, recovering from the trauma of witnessing a deadly climbing accident in her favorite place in the world, building queer community, and what actually happens when you take a whip on a can of pinto beans.



Resources

Inviting Communities In

The AAC Twin Cities Chapter partners with Spanish speaking communities to bring people climbing.

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By: Sierra McGivney

As the leaves change, students flood classrooms, back to school for another semester. Students at El Colegio Highschool, a small charter school in South Minneapolis, always wondered why their teacher Steve Asencio was covered in bruises and cuts. 

When the school bell rang Asencio was at his local climbing gym, hanging out with friends while bouldering and top-roping. Each time, he'd come away from the climbing wall with bruises and scrapes—practically a requirement for climbers.

Asencio found climbing through the BIPOC events put on by the AAC Twin Cities Chapter in 2021. The space for new learners and community grown by Rodel Querubin, the Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair, allowed Asencio to immerse himself in climbing. Asencio even applied for the AAC-TC BIPOC Ice Climbing Scholarship in 2021 and was able to attend Michigan Ice Fest to hone his skills further. 

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

When Asencio saw an opportunity to bring his passion for climbing to the classroom he reached out to Querubin. Twice a year students at his school participate in an interim week in which the teachers design a three-hour-long class of their choice. 

Ascencio emailed Querubin: do you think that we could create some sort of class and partnership to teach students how to climb? Querubin didn’t hesitate, Yes. He didn’t even know if he could make this happen or where funding would come from, but Querubin is committed to keeping as many doors open as possible in his work, so he decided he would find a way. 

El Colegio is not your average high school. The school is a tuition-free charter school with a focus on community-building and social justice. The staff is fully bilingual and has been recognized locally and nationally as an innovative force in improving achievement for Latino students and other students of color. As Asencio talked to students about climbing he realized how inaccessible it was to them. Very few students had climbed before and if they had, they had only done so in their native countries. 

“I felt like I was that student. I grew up in Atlanta, I didn't climb until I came to Minnesota and was 26 or 27 years old,” says Asencio.  

A student from El Colegio high school, climbing at Vertical Endevours. PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Giddy and scared, the kids tied in at Vertical Endeavors. Shouts of encouragement filled the gym as the kids pushed one another to climb. Asencio would watch a kid get stuck on a route and walk by thirty minutes later to the same kid finishing up. 

“I think that, to me, was just super powerful as that can translate into life,” says Asencio. 

Being able to complete something new after being scared of what lies on the other side is a huge accomplishment. A lot of the students at El Colegio are originally from countries such as Ecuador, Mexico, El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras. A few kids had only been to school, work, and home. They didn’t have the opportunity to go anywhere outside of those three settings. The students got to be in a space that is completely new while also being fulfilling, rewarding, and challenging. 

“I was very impressed with [the students]. I think they kind of took on that challenge,” says Asencio.  

Asencio’s goal has always been to expose the students to climbing with the hopes that they will, in turn, expose their family, friends, and others. This is how they begin to create a Spanish-speaking space within the climbing community.  

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

News spread fast through the school that Mr. Asencio’s interim climbing class was cool. Asencio had kids running up to him exclaiming that they had to be in his class. The class has become one of the most popular and spots are limited. Asencio is always trying to see how he can get as many interested kids on the wall. In the second semester, Asencio had a few returning students who helped teach the new kids the ropes. 

“Most inspiring and touching to me was that two of the students who had participated during our first events in October of last year returned for this latest round and were able to teach the rest of their class how to belay instead of me—in Spanish,” says Querubin.


Luisana Mendez the founder of Huellas Latinas, a hiking club based in Minnesota oriented toward Spanish-speaking individuals, found climbing in the same way Asencio did, through the events that Querubin hosted. She approached Querubin about a partnership to take participants in the hiking club, climbing. Although Huellas Latinas is primarily a hiking club, being outdoors is what brings everyone together, no matter the activity.

Huellas Latinas gearing up to climb. PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

At the time Querubin didn’t have a framework or funding for an event. After the success of the climbing event at El Colegio highschool, Querubin reached back out to Luisana Mendez to restart the conversation about hosting an event alongside Huellas Latinas. 

“I feel like those types of communities are the exact spaces where we want to be expanding the reach of climbing and the possibility of it—folks who are already interested in the outdoors but maybe don’t see themselves in climbing or just aren’t aware of the resources to them,” says Querubin. “Any number of things that we take for granted as far as access to climbing, [we can address those obstacles.] I want to make sure that those communities see that those opportunities are available.”

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

They hosted two different events, one rope climbing, and one bouldering. Participants loved it. Everyone was enthusiastic about the opportunity to try something they wouldn't necessarily see themselves doing. 

If participants decided they enjoy climbing after the event, they could attend the weekly BIPOC climbing events put on by the AAC Twin Cities Chapter. 

“We’ve been seeing some of those folks join in on BIPOC events, so that was the beauty of that, not just having these one-off events but then the ability for them to join in on our more regularly scheduled events,” says Rodel.

Everyone loves a good party. Big events like Craggin’ Classics and Flash Foxy draw in all types of climbers, who get to socialize and celebrate climbing. The issue is, what happens to those climbers who got introduced to climbing at the big event? What support network is in place to allow them to continue climbing and form the community needed in order to continue their climbing career? Running smaller, more frequent events, like the AAC Twin Cities Chapter is able to do, allows a community to build organically and supports the folks who are pulled in by exciting one-off events.  

Working with Huellas Latinas and El Colegio has been part of a bigger push to partner with other groups and organizations to bring them into climbing. In 2020, the pandemic in conjunction with the murder of George Floyd made Querubin, his fellow members, and the leadership team at the Twin Cities Chapter reevaluate what they wanted their priorities to focus on. They took some time to focus on how best to address systemic racism, inequities, and the imbalance of access. Phase one: Create a space for BIPOC communities through gym partnerships and events. 

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

“When you take a step back there are very specific responsibilities and intentionality when you run BIPOC spaces. Or at least there should be. And so what that means is not just having these events, but also making some very specific and intentional invites to communities and relationship building,” says Querubin. 

Phase two was to invite communities to get involved and be represented in the climbing community. Part of the purpose of introducing climbing to groups that had already built a community, like students from El Colegio high school and participants of Huellas Latinas, was to ensure the individuals participating felt safe and welcomed through a partnership they already trusted. After the events, participants had the opportunity to advance in climbing if they were interested in doing so with the AAC Twin Cities Chapter. 

“I wanted to start up this program, which was to help communities so that we aren’t gatekeeping that knowledge, where we’re empowering their community and to then have leaders in their communities,” says Querubin.

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Right now the AAC Twin Cities chapter is set to run around 80 BIPOC clinics and meetups this year, 2022. If you are in the area and find yourself looking for a sense of community, get connected on social media here or our website here

Loving Our People

Color the Wasatch Joins Climb United's Affiliate Support Network

“I solve problems for a living. Like math theorems. And climbing is a physical interpretation of that. You're solving these puzzles, but you get this body therapy in the meantime, and I really felt like it made me feel strong, right? The fears that you can overcome when climbing are kind of incredible. It's like a mind test on like seven different levels. So of course, with me being an overachiever, and very into puzzles, I just fell in love with it very quickly.”

-Priyam Patel, Founder of CTW

Throughout [Priyam's] career she has done a lot of advocacy for diversity in math and STEM, but she kept waiting for someone else to take up the helm and create an affinity space for climbers in Salt Lake. Priyam was thinking: “I might not be the best climber. I might not be a pro, I might not be super embedded and entrenched in the community. But if I don't do this, who's gonna do it?” Priyam realized, if she needed BIPOC community in climbing this bad, there were surely many other climbers out there who did too. There was no time to waste.

Continue reading below!

Loving Our People

Finding Home

Queer Climbing Collective Joins Climb United's Affiliate Support Network

Elli Jahangiri’s entrance into climbing was as seamless as it gets. Friends lent her shoes and other gear, got her free day passes, mentored her in climbing movement, and brought her climbing outdoors. While Elli had few barriers to accessing climbing, she couldn't help but notice the barriers faced by climbers all around her. She was the anomalee. She had a seamless experience, but that was not the experience for nearly everyone else around her—especially her fellow queer, POC, and BIPOC climbing friends. Her brain got to working. How could she change that?

It started as a lot of things do with millennials...Elli created a group chat called “Queer Climbing Collective Board Members” as a joke with her friends. It was just a dream though. Just a joke. Soon, she made a logo...because why not dream more? Then it felt too real not to.

The official affinity group Queer Climbing Collective(QCC) started with weekly meet-ups at Mesa Rim, a gym in San Diego. Soon, queer climbers in other states latched on to the idea and wanted to start their own chapters in other parts of the country.

Continue reading below!

Finding Home

With Immense Sorrow, We Say Goodbye to our Dear Friend Hilaree Nelson.

With immense sorrow, we say goodbye to our dear friend and board member Hilaree Nelson.

Hilaree was a groundbreaking ski mountaineer, an inspiration to women and particularly adventurous moms, and a force among the AAC Board of Directors since her nomination in 2020. As a community, we find comfort in recognizing the number of lives she touched, the people she inspired, and the energy she carried through life. 

We also know the pain and grief felt by those closest to her, particularly her children and partner, are unbearable. Who she was as a mother, partner, and our friend are part of what inspired us all so much. In the future, we will create space to fully celebrate her profound impact on the mountain community. In the meantime, our thoughts are with her loved ones as they grieve and learn to live on in her absence.


“Hilaree was a beacon for our community. She led a life defined by immense grace and strength that extended far beyond the world's great ranges. Her advocacy created change, while her leadership enabled those around her to do the same. I am personally devastated to have lost her as a colleague and as a friend, and my heart goes out to her family.”

-Graham Zimmerman, AAC Board President


“Hilaree was an inspiration, a kind and humble leader, a total badass, and a genuine friend. I'm grateful to have known her, and my heart is with her family, her children, and Jim.”

-Katie Stahley, AAC Board Member

“The profound example set by Hilaree is one to which the rest of us can only aspire. Her accomplishments as an athlete shine brighter because she was a mother participating strongly in our community of climbers, skiers, and activists. Volunteering demonstrated yet another force of hers, guiding many of our compasses both in and out of the mountains. May she rest in peace.”

-Brody Leven, AAC Board Member


Being on the board of the American Alpine Club with your heroes is always a strange experience. You go through ebbs and flows of fandom while you sit next to one of the world’s greatest climbers or most visionary alpinists. So when someone like Hilaree Nelson hops in a chair next to you, you are almost speechless. But that immediately fades away, because in minutes, she has you cracking up about the time she climbed this, or the time she skied that mountain, or the cute thing her son did the other day. She had this amazing knack of making every one of us on the AAC board remember why we were there together, why we love the wild spaces. She knew how to read a room, a person, and a line up and down a mountain. I will grieve her loss for a very, very long time. But I will forever treasure those times we laughed together, climbed together and shared in our love of the mountain community together. RIP Hilaree.”

-Jen Bruursema, AAC Board Member


If you need support in grieving Hilaree’s loss, or any loss such as this that happened in the mountains or because of an accident, you can find therapy, shared experiences, and financial resources here.

No Longer an Old Boys’ Club

The AAC Triangle Chapter nourishes a strong female climbing community.

PC: AAC member Anne McLaughlin

Grassroots: Unearthering the Future of Climbing

By Sierra McGivney

A woman's place is on lead. No longer is climbing “an old boys’ club.” This is true now more than ever. The future of climbing is expanding beyond traditions of the past at a rapid pace. 

In North Carolina, AAC member Anne McLaughlin created a network of women climbers aiming to empower those who identify as female. What started as a Women's Climbing Night evolved into a network of women aged 20-70 who are all bound together by their love of climbing. 

“We called ourselves women’s climbing night until this year. We realized we were more than a night, we were a network,” says McLaughlin. 

McLaughlin yearned for a women’s climbing community in North Carolina. Although North Carolina has a strong climbing community, there was not a strong female presence. 

PC: AAC member Anne McLaughlin

Oftentimes women are introduced to climbing by male partners or friends. Although there is nothing inherently wrong with this, it does reflect the reality that the majority of educators, mentors, and guides are men, positions that allow for knowledge-sharing and decision-making that shape the culture of climbing. In addition, because of societal pressures, someone who identifies as a woman may feel as though they have to prove themselves in front of a male climbing partner. When women climb with other women that pressure can often disappear, and they can focus on the climb at hand. 

Jane Harrison, a friend of McLaughlin’s had run a women’s climbing meet-up when she was living in Oregon. She approached McLaughlin about starting one in the area. Together they began to devise a plan to create a Women’s Climbing Night for their local North Carolina community.

The key was to keep the event casual and have a core group of women who attend, organize, and facilitate. Instead of having a one-off event, they opted to have a consistent two nights a month blocked off for women’s climbing. Establishing rapport and consistency with their community encourages participants to have a long-term relationship with climbing. Harrison and McLaughlin began hosting meetups at their local gym, Triangle Rock Club in January of 2018. 

“Ever since then, we've just had more and more people joining up,”  says McLaughlin. “Right now I run the email list and we have over 260 women.” 

PC: AAC member Anne McLaughlin

Cory Johnson, the AAC Triangle Chapter Co-chair, got involved quickly with the Women’s Climbing Network (WCN). She discussed with McLaughlin how the AAC could partner with them. Now, the AAC Triangle Chapter supports the WCN by providing access to their gear closet for outdoor events and promotes them on the Triangle Facebook page. Johnson encourages women who attend the Triangle Chapter skills clinics to get connected with McLaughlin. 

“So many of the women who've joined our group came to it through taking a clinic through the American Alpine Club Triangle Chapter,” says McLaughlin. 

In the North Carolina climbing community, there is a strong desire to find good consistent partnerships and mentors. By creating a strong women’s climbing community that removes hurdles like gym to crag transition, McLaughlin has provided a safe climbing environment that empowers women. 

“There is a hunger out there for women to climb with other women and learn from other women,” says McLaughlin.


PC: AAC member Anne McLaughlin

McLaughlin wasn’t always the strong trad crusher she is today. Her first time climbing left her disappointed and discouraged. At the time she was a graduate student at Georgia Tech and had signed up for a beginner outdoor climbing class. No prerequisite needed. The group piled into a van and drove out to Sand Rock, Alabama, a crag that McLaughlin would come to know well over the subsequent years. Sand Rock is known for its beginner-friendly toprope jug routes —full of horns, suitcase handles, and chicken heads—as well as crimpy face climbs and thin crack lines. Sport routes run parallel to difficult trad routes. There are even a couple of good bouldering problems—some even describe it as "the Southeast's most underrated bouldering area,” according to Mountain Project. 

McLaughlin was the only woman in the group on her first trip. The guides set up one of the notorious overhung juggy 5.6 climbs. The moves resembled a pull-up. Each tug upward makes the climber look and feel strong, while being a relatively easy route. But it was not “easy” for McLaughlin. She stood at the base, trying repeatedly to pull herself up with no success. She thought: I’m worse than everyone here. I’m failing. I’m just not a climber. 

Around the corner was a multitude of slab routes. Routes that might have favored McLaughlin's strengths. But McLaughlin had only been presented with one version of what climbing could be.

PC: Adriel Tomek

“Having that experience, [you realize] you have to set up people for success and play to people's strengths,” says McLaughlin. “Observe what they can do and what they are having trouble with, and tweak their opportunities to ensure they have an excellent first experience, especially outside.”

A couple of years later during an internship in Florida, McLaughlin tried climbing again. Her supervisor, Gwen Campbell, was a climber in her 50s and brought her to the local climbing gym in Orlando. Campbell was McLaughlin's biggest cheerleader. Every move McLaughlin made was followed by a cheer and shout of excitement.

 “She introduced me to climbing and I absolutely loved it,” says McLaughlin.


Now, McLaughlin is the cheerleader. Although education is not the point of their trips, McLaughlin gives participants an opportunity to learn. She spends the day showing anyone interested how to clean sport routes, rappel, and flake the rope. One woman, Rachel, who is primarily a gym climber, began going to their outdoor events. McLaughlin anchored into the top of a climb at Pilot Mountain while Rachel cleaned the anchor. The sun beat down on the two of them as Rachel cleaned the anchor first with McLaughlin’s instruction and then with McLaughlin just watching to make sure she was safe. 

Later McLaughlin received an email from her, explaining that she had practiced cleaning the anchor and was able to take her friends out and teach them. She had felt empowered by McLaughlin's instruction and was grateful.  

“That made my day,” McLaughlin says with a smile. 

PC: AAC member Anne McLaughlin

The goal of the WCN is to connect and empower women, arming them with knowledge so they can advocate for the climbing they want to do, and make informed and safe decisions for themselves in the mountains. Participants are encouraged to find climbing partners and friends to meet up with outside of WCN nights and events. Independence within climbing allows women to make decisions in the mountains confidently, a skill every climber should have. The network provides an environment for women of all ages to grow, learn, and connect. 

“If you see it, you can be it,” says McLaughlin. 

Under The Spell of the Grand

A story from the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch

June in the Tetons is the perfect practice ground for the Alps or Canada. Mixed terrain and conditions prepare climbers for any outcome in the mountains. Snow rests in shadowed pockets on high mountain passes. And down in the glacially carved valley sits the Climbers' Ranch. Yellow summer flowers bloom all around the rustic coed bunkhouse. For $30 a night (for non-AAC members), guests get to wake up in their off-the-grid cabins, walk outside, breathe the fresh air, and watch the sun illuminate the Tetons.

Below dive deep into work week at the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch. If you would like to deepen your support for the American Alpine Club and the Grand Tetons Climbers’ Ranch consider donating below.

Under the Spell of the Grand

Education in the Face of Grief

The AAC Triangle Chapter offers education clinics at the North Carolina Climbing Fest.

PC: AAC Triangle Chapter Co-Chair John White

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By Sierra McGivney

When tragedy struck the North Carolina climbing community after a fatal rappelling accident in 2012, the AAC Triangle Chapter decided to turn its focus to education. David Thoenen and Danny McCracken, former volunteer leaders for the AAC Southern Appalachia and Triangle Chapters, created a best practice climbing education initiative for their chapter. The current co-chairs of the Triangle Chapter, Cory Johnson and John White, are carrying the torch with a strong drive to educate climbers. 

“Part of how [previous Triangle Chapter Chairs] wanted to address their grief was to give back to the community and try to provide rappelling best practices,” says Johnson.

They created clinic guidelines based on the AAC: Know the Ropes and videos from the AMGA website explaining each topic. Clinics like “Rappelling,” “Two-Bolt Anchors: The Quad,” “Two-bolt Anchors: Cleaning and Lowering,” “Belaying From Above,” and “Knots For Climbers,” are all offered. 

PC: AAC Triangle Chapter Co-Chair Cory Johnson

The AAC Triangle Chapter hosts these climbing clinics weekly at various Triangle Rock Club Gyms. The clinics are free and open to anyone who pays for a membership or day pass to the Triangle Rock Climbing Gym. North Carolina climbers looking to elevate or refresh their knowledge can visit their website

“Our general philosophy with all of our clinics is to make sure everyone can continue enjoying these resources and everyone has the tools to climb safely,” says Johnson.

In addition, the Triangle Chapter members and volunteers attend different festivals and events to offer clinics to all levels of climbers. When Bryce Mahoney, an AAC member and board member of the Carolina Climbers Coalition, reached out to Johnson and White about the Triangle Chapter hosting clinics at the North Carolina Climbers Fest (NCCF), they jumped on the opportunity. Johnson headed the project, organizing four clinics hosted by herself and other AAC volunteers at the festival, instilling confidence and knowledge in climbers.  


Practice rings and tree anchors decorate the Jomeokee Campground in Pinnacle, NC on Saturday, May 14th. The AAC Triangle Chapter volunteers taught clinics to participants of the North Carolina Climbing Fest. Dirty hands worked together to carry rocks, building trails around the climbing areas of Pilot Mountain, just five miles from the campground. Climbers and hikers enjoyed a pancake breakfast cooked by Mahoney, the owner of the Jameokee campground and host of the NCCF, to fuel before the day's activities. 

“I just love bringing people together,” says Mahoney.

A volunteer teaches a group of participants. PC: AAC Triangle Chapter Co-Chair Cory Johnson

Mahoney began his climbing career at Pilot Mountain when a friend opened his eyes to the world of climbing. Rock climbing and volunteer trail work with the Carolina Climbing Coalition became an outlet for him. At the time, Mahoney was working as a Virtual Veteran Support Specialist, a counselor offering peer support, crisis management, and VA resource navigation to promote quality of life and well-being for Veterans and their family members. 

“While I was doing the veteran support work, there were not a lot of victories the day of, so being able to go somewhere and use my physical abilities to do something was awesome,” says Mahoney. 

Mahoney had a background in construction, so building trails outdoors, in a place he loved, was rewarding. Volunteering at the CCC wasn’t enough for Mahoney so he joined the C4 team, a group of individuals that create and improve climbing access in the Carolinas, but he yearned to be on the board of directors. Two weeks later a seat opened up, and Mahoney eagerly joined. Now, Mahoney owns his own rock climbing guiding company: Yadkin Valley Adventure.


When Mahoney attended the South Carolina Climbing Fest he thought to himself, we need a festival like this in North Carolina. But not long after, COVID-19 hit and stopped all events. This year, with the reopening of restaurants, offices, and events, Mahoney put on the North Carolina Climbers Fest. 

PC: AAC Triangle Chapter Co-Chair Cory Johnson

Teaching and facilitating clinics even for a small group of people makes a huge difference in Mahoney’s eyes. Everyone makes mistakes in the mountains. Recognizing those mistakes, implementing best practices, and refreshing safety knowledge help us become better climbers. Success to Mahoney is knowing that these climbers leave with more knowledge in critical safety skills than they arrived with. 

“I do feel responsible as a professional rock climbing instructor, board representative, and a representative of this community in this region to stand out there and be like, we need to make sure we're double-checking these things, preventing injuries and deaths,” says Mahoney. The alliance between Mahoney and the AAC Triangle Chapter, with their focus on climber education, was a natural fit. 

Next year you won’t see the North Carolina Climbing Fest but the North Carolina Outdoor Fest. A strong climbing presence will remain at the festival. Mahoney aims to be more inclusive in the small, tight-knit outdoor community in North Carolina. Most people that climb also mountain bike, kayak, hike or recreate in the outdoors in another way. 

“I see more communities being here,” says Mahoney.

PC: AAC Triangle Chapter Co-Chair Cory Johnson

A strong climbing education presence will still be a part of the festival. If you're looking to connect, learn, or simply want to have fun in the outdoor community, this festival is for you. In the meantime attend a clinic or get involved within your local AAC Chapter. Members like Mahoney, Johnson, and White drive the AAC’s work at the grassroots level to equip climbers with the necessary knowledge to be safe and successful in the mountains.

*Danny McCracken passed away this past fall. We are grateful for the impact he had on the Club.

Join Us! We're Hiring

We're Hiring for our Policy and Climb United departments, and we couldn't be more excited.

People—climbers—are our lifeblood.

And climbers have an intimate relationship with the land we recreate on. You can't disentangle the climber from the climbing.

With that understanding in mind, we're linking and expanding our DEI work and policy work so that these initiatives work in tandem. Moving forward, Climb United and our Policy team will be working hand in hand to accomplish the AAC's advocacy and equity objectives.

Learn more about the team, how to apply, and our vision:

Join Us