Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award
Through the generous contribution of Lyman Spitzer, Jr., a long-time American Alpine Club member and lover of the mountains, the AAC initiated the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants Program. This program promotes state-of-the-art, cutting-edge climbing through financial support of small, lightweight climbing teams attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world's great mountain ranges.
How To Apply
The application deadline for the Lyman Spitzer Grant is March 1. Late applications will not be accepted and applications are for expeditions departing no later than April 30 of the following year.
How to Submit
Applications must be submitted electronically via an emailed Microsoft Word or Adobe Acrobat (.PDF) attachment. Scanned signatures must be inserted within the submitted proposal. Proposals submitted without signatures on both the waiver and grant application will not be accepted. Please submit relevant photos of your objective along with your application.
Inquiries:
Jason Manke
Grants Manager
(303) 384-0110 ext.19
jmanke@americanalpineclub.org
Selection Process
A committee of three active climbers reviews the applications, selects the recipients, and decides on award amounts. Recipients are typically chosen by April 1st and all applicants will be notified of the committee’s decision at that point.
Past recipients:
2008
Vince Anderson. Alpine-style attempt on the west face of Makalu in Nepal, with Steve House and Marko Prezelj.
Micah Dash. Attempt on unclimbed Dojitsenga (ca. 5,700m) in southeastern Tibet with Jonny Copp.
Ben Gilmore. Attempt on the 11,400-foot Rabbit’s Ears, possibly the highest unclimbed peak in the Alaska Range, with Maxime Turgeon and Freddie Wilkinson. Read about the climb...
Chad Kellogg. Attempt on southwest ridge of Siguniang in Sichuan, China, with Dylan Johnson.
Josh Wharton. Attempt on the north face of Latok I with Whit Magro.
2007
Jonny Copp and Micah Dash - alpine-style attempt on an enormous rock wall in Kashmir, India. Read about the climb...
Scott DeCapio and Kelly Cordes - attempt on unclimbed K7 West (6,858 meters) in Pakistan. Read their report...
Josh Wharton and Bean Bowers - attempt on the much-tried North Ridge of Latok I (7,145 meters) in Pakistan. Read their report...
Samuel Johnson, Jeremy Frimer, and Ryan Hokanson - attempt on a big rock wall on unclimbed "Latok II 3/4." Read their report...
Dave Turner - solo attempt on a new big-wall route on Cerro Escudo, Patagonia. Read his report...
Cory Richards, Eammon Walsh (CAN), and Dana Ruddy (CAN) - attempt on the unclimbed Southeast Face of Huantsan (6,369 meters) in the Cordillera Blanca or Peru.
2006
Mike and Andy Libecki - will explore and climb in remote valleys of Uzbekistan, where photos of unclimbed granite walls and pyramids caused Mike to exclaim, "God must have created this part of the planet just for obsessed climbers."
Will Mayo and Canadian Maxime Turgeon - received the Spitzer grant and climbed and nearly completed a fantastic new line on the south face of Mt. Foraker in Alaska. See Rock and Ice, September 2006.
Mike Schaefer, Micah Dash and Eric Decaria - will make an alpine style attempt on the direct east face of Uli Biaho in Pakistan, after pioneering a 2,000-foot wall just to reach the base of their main objective.
Josh Wharton and Kelly Cordes - will tackle the 5,000-foot north ridge of Pakistan's Shingu Charpa, a stunning line that has seen several attempts in recent years.
2005
Tommy Chandler – Climbing in the Putala Shan, Tan Shan and formations in the Shuangqiao, Gou, Siguniang region of China.
Sam Johnson – Attempt on the Northeast buttress of Uli Biaho. Successful climb of the "Severance Ridge", Trango II, Pakistan.
James Stover – Attempt of the Southest Face of Kizil Asker (5,842m), Kyrgyzstan.
2004
Carlos Buhler – Attempt of the North face of Kalanka, India.
Tommy Chandler - New routes in Jarjinjabo Massif, in the Sichuan Province of Western China.
Nathan Martin – New Route on the central pillar of Nalumasortoq, Greenland.
Josh Wharton - First ascent of the southwest ("Azeem Ridge") ridge of Great Trango Tower, Pakistan.
2003
Doug Chabot – Attempt of an alpine-style ascent of Shark's Fin, Gangotri Region, India.
Brian Clarke - first ascent of a 4000-foot face on Mount Hunter, Alaska.
Jonny Copp - Alpine-style ascent of Bhagirathi III, Garhwal Himalaya, India.
Micah Dash – First ascent of peak 1561 in Tassermuit Fjord, Greenland (solo).
Jim Earl - Unclimbed, 4,300-foot high (1300m) Southeast Face of Jirishanca Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.
Ben Gilmore - New route on Thalay Sagar, Indian Himalayas
Heidi Wirtz - unclimbed peak in Miyar Valley, India
2002
Brian Block – Attempt of an alpine-style ascent of Denali's east face.
Mike Libecki – Successful solo first ascents in remote east Greenland.
Micah Rafael - New and free routes in Tasermuit Fjord, Greenland.
Steve Schneider - On-sight free climb and first ascent of Otgon Tenger, Mongolia.
Josh Wharton - First ascent of The Flame, Karakoram region of the Himalaya.
Cedar Wright - Climb of Mt Thor and first ascents of surrounding walls, Baffin Island.