CANADA

OVERDUE, FATIGUE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, DARKNESS

Alberta, Murchison Falls

Three ice climbers set out to climb Murchison Falls (180m, V, WI4) at 1000, March 27, and were at the base of the first pitch at noon. One of the climbers was ill and returned to the highway, leaving the other two to complete the climb. They agreed to meet at the vehicle after the climb, but set no time, as they believed they would be down after dark.

At 1400 the pair were starting the third pitch. The ice was wet, and the climbers took three hours to climb the final 80 meters. Their only headlamp was left in a pack at the bottom of the climb, and they did not reach the top until dark. It took three hours for the pair to complete four rappels. By 2130 they were at the base of the climb, and were back at their vehicle by 2250. In the meantime, the third climber who had returned early became concerned, and at 2200 called the Jasper Park emergency line to request a rescue. Four wardens were on standby, and two responded to Saskatchewan Crossing where the reporting person was waiting. When wardens arrived, the climbers were safely down, and the rescue response was terminated.

Analysis

Although no rescue was required, this type of incident is becoming more common with the increase in popularity of ice climbing. Underestimating the time required to complete the climb, not retreating, having inadequate equipment, and fatigue all combined to result in a potentially serious incident. (Source: Parks Canada Warden Service)

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED

Alberta, Mount Temple, Greenwood/Locke Route

On August 20, a party of two attempted the Greenwood/Locke Route (V, 5.9 A1). The two got a predawn start and reached the rock pitches above the upper icefield in good time. The pitches were very wet and they decided to retreat. They rappelled and down- climbed the majority of the lower route, then unroped to descend the final snow gully. The lowest climber was moving down the gully, facing out, when he lost his footing. He attempted to self-arrest and was partially successful. Before he could stop himself, a crampon hooked and he began to tumble, falling 200 meters to the scree below. His partner continued to descend the route and found his partner dead from massive head injuries. The second climber descended to the trail, and with the help of a cell phone from nearby hikers, contacted Warden Service Dispatch.

Analysis

Both climbers were very experienced. With the steepness of the descent gully and the short ice axes carried, it may have been better to descend the gully facing in, rather than out. (Source: Parks Canada Warden Service)

LOST, CLIMBING ALONE, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT

Alberta, Columbia Icefield, Mount Athabasca

On Sept. 26, a lone climber took out a safety registration for a climb of Mount Athabasca, with a return time of 1200 the next day indicated, although the climber had no intention of over-nighting on the mountain. He was experienced, and successfully climbed the Silverhorn route. However, he was unfamiliar with the topography of the mountain, and a whiteout on the way up prevented him from viewing the standard descent route, which leaves the west ridge and follows a wide horizontal traverse to the right to avoid a large icefall.

From the summit, he started down the ridge toward the standard route, completely unaware of an alternative descent via the Athabasca-Andromeda Col, which could be reached by following the southwest branch of the same ridge down to the col. He had no trail to follow because of recent storm snow, and so traversed back and forth while descending, trying to find a way through the icefall. He did not go far enough down the ridge to find the traverse ramp, and was forced to bivouac at an elevation over 3000 meters, exposed to wind and snow overnight, with only a light nylon sack for protection.

When he failed to return on September 27, wardens became concerned, and proceeded at 1300 to search the mountain. By that time, the climber was severely hypothermic and unable to move, but he was able to wave his hand. The helicopter was prevented from landing by wind and poor visibility, so wardens were slung in under it to evacuate him. The pilot did a masterful flying performance in extremely poor conditions during the rescue. Paramedics who attended the victim estimate that he was within a half hour of death by hypothermia.

Analysis

Although the climber was experienced, he did not research the mountain adequately, and so became stymied when bad weather prevented him from seeing where to go. Had he known about the A-A Col descent route, or the correct line of the standard route, he might have gotten down on his own and in good time, even in bad weather. In any case, soloing on a glacier is hazardous. Many people have fallen into deep crevasses on Mount Athabasca. (Source: Parks Canada Warden Service)

UNITED STATES

RAPPEL ERROR - ROPE TANGLED, STRANDED, INEXPERIENCE, DARKNESS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT - NO HEAD LAMP

Alabama, Pelham

On March 2, Chad Lovelady (23) and Eric Langwager (17) decided they would go rappelling that evening on rocks behind the building where they work. Around 9:00 p.m., Chad began the first rappel. About mid-way down, he noticed an overhand knot in the line. Rather than remove it, he forced it through his figure eight, continued to the bottom, and then asked Eric to remove it before descending. Eric untied the knot, tossed the rope down and began his rappel, with Chad on belay. Since it was dark and they were using a black rope, neither one could see that the rope had tangled about 60 feet from the bottom. Eric stopped just above the entanglement and tried to remove it with one hand. Due to his inexperience, he did not know how to lock off, so he tired and quickly slipped closer to the jam. This forced Chad to tighten the belay, which cinched the entanglement even more.

Rescue was called around 8:30 p.m. by a third party. After a basic pick-off, the climbers went on their way.

Analysis

Chad had about six years of experience, but Eric had only one month. Chad felt the entanglement was attributable to the fact the rope had been twisted by his figure-eight ring on the first rappel, and to the lack of attention when the rope was tossed off. The inability to correct the problem was also the result of rappelling at night without headlamps. (Source: Matthew Mobley, Pelham Fire Department)

HACE, PARTY SEPARATED, FAILURE TO TURN BACK

Alaska, Mount McKinley, West Buttress

Throughout the day on June 17, several expeditions passed Hiroyaki Hoshino (36) and his companions, between 18,000 feet and 19,700 feet. Everyone who passed Hoshino and was later interviewed said that Hoshino looked exhausted and shaky. A ranger patrol descending from the summit stopped to talk to Hoshino and in no uncertain terms tried to convince Hoshino to go down, but were unsuccessful. It is unlikely, but the language barrier could have been a problem in getting the point across to Hoshino.

At the "football field" (19,500 feet) Hoshino was too exhausted to go to the summit. His friends elected to continue and left Hoshino. Hoshino's friends summitted and returned for him. Hoshino had become ataxic from altitude sickness and exhaustion and he needed assistance from his friends to hike down. The Japanese were able to make it down to Denali Pass, where they requested a rescue at 0130 on June 18.

At 0402 the LAMA helicopter and Hudson's Cessna 206 acting as cover plane were in the air to evacuate Hoshino. At approximately the same time, a ground rescue team comprised of volunteers from High Camp was climbing up to assist the Japanese at Denali Pass.

At 0459 the LAMA landed at 18,000 feet, and ranger Kevin Moore assisted the ataxic Hoshino to the helicopter. Hoshino was flown to Base camp where he was treated and stabilized.

Analysis

Hoshino overextended himself. His climbing partners failed to recognize the situation and react to it. Instead they elected to go to the summit. They were also improperly prepared to bivouac, which caused Hoshino to become hypothermic while waiting for a rescue. (Source: Kevin Moore, Mountaineering Ranger)

RAPPEL ERROR - ROPE ENDS UNEVEN, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT

Arizona, Oak Flats

On April 6, following a bouldering contest in the area, Paul (25) and his climbing partner (24) went for a climb about a half mile from the primary bouldering area, where there is some quality granite. Paul had just completed following a single pitch 5.9 route and was preparing to rappel. He was wearing a seat harness. The rope had been doubled so it could be retrieved at the bottom. Apparently, the two rope ends did not meet at the bottom. Within about 30 feet of the top, Paul was rappelling when the remaining strand pulled free. He fell approximately 35--40 feet to the bottom.

An orthopedic physician climbing in the area heard the yells for help and began to assess and stabilize him while someone drove to our rescue camp for help. The rescue team had been breaking down from the rescue/ medical standby at the contest and responded, notifying the local agencies and arriving on scene within minutes.

Paul was unconscious and largely unresponsive the entire time. He was splinted, back boarded, insulated, intubated and I.V.s were initiated. His breathing had to be assisted with Bag Valve Mask. Due to the terrain and length of evacuation, the team chose to activate the Arizona DPS Ranger 41 from Phoenix early, to perform a short haul extraction (litter and attendant attached via rope underneath the helicopter). Paul was packaged in a Bauman Bag and extracted with a paramedic rescue team member to a nearby Heli-Spot, where he was turned over to Eagle Air Med and flown to Phoenix, some 70 miles west.

His injuries included a left occipital/parietal skull fracture and concussion, left arm radial, ulnar and wrist fractures, left hip fracture and left leg tibia/fibula and ankle fractures. He was left temporarily unable to speak. Paul was treated and sent to surgery at Phoenix Maricopa Medical Center, and spent about three weeks in Surgical Intensive Care. Extremely fortunate, he is expected to have near 100% recovery.

Analysis

The rope had been moved by the time of our arrival but was intact. The anchor at the top was reported as intact as was the harness. There was no apparent equipment failure or fracture.

Certainly, this all underscores again the value that companions and bystanders play early in an incident. This mission also would have taken much longer had the team not been in the area, and Short Haul (or cable hoisting) is not an option which is available everywhere or to all public safety agencies. Most areas in the country still do not have rope rescue teams who can comfortably operate in the wilderness. Reporting accurate information, early is critical. It may be the difference between life and death, but more often it is the difference of having some residual pain or discomfort versus having a life long limp or paraplegia or other disability?not being able to climb anymore.

If you are not specific with what you perceive are the technical needs of the mission, local agencies will many times send a local fire department or police officer to "check it out" before activating any technical rescue resources.

The key elements to report to 911 (or your local equivalent) are as follows:

1. Your buddy's condition. Is the person in a life threatening situation? Could he or she survive the night or a lengthy response?

2. Access to the scene. Does there appear to be a road head (for ambulance or truck access) or Heli-Spot (100 feet by 100 feet, no obstructions) at least within 1/4 mile? If not, and your climbing buddy is unconscious or has a serious injury tell 911 that you need a wilderness rescue team with rope skills, and tell them that vehicles or helicopters will not be able to get close. In the game of wilderness rescue, this report, along with minutes, count.

3. Another consideration is whether it a fifth class approach or fourth class with severe exposure to access your buddy. If it is, specify the need for a CLIMBING rope rescue team. (Source: Tim Kovacs, Ops Leader, Maricopa County Sheriff's Office Mountain Rescue, Central Arizona Mountain Rescue Association)

(Editor's Note: Tim Kovacs pointed out that an extremely small percentage of our total missions were climbers or mountaineers. The vast majority [99%+] were hikers and other non-climbers who were in over their heads, and for that reason are not reported here.)

FALL ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, INADEQUATE PROTECTION

California, Yosemite, Lembert Dome

I climbed a 5.9 variant of a 5.6 route. I went over the crux successfully, but ran out too far right on 5.6 slope. I place two nuts in marginal cracks. I got to the top of the ledge, then fell and rolled down. I broke a leg and foot.

Analysis

I broke rules. At the top, I put my mid-section over the ledge and reached for a small tree. I let footing leave rocks. The placements were marginal. Poor placement. I was out of sight of belay. Belay saved my life, as did my helmet, because I hit my head enough to cause unconsciousness.

Lesson I learned: 1) Do NOT climb beyond experience level; 2) make all placements BOMB proof before proceeding; 3) do not remove hand or feet from rock, even if you know you "got it made". The climb ain't over until your butt is hooked in on top. (Source: Douglas Hoyt - 48)

STRANDED, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT

Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs Peak

On July 25, at 0100, David Gallegos and his brother George (26) left from Covenant Height's Camp to climb Kiener's Route (III, AI 1, 5.4) on the East Face of Longs Peak. George had climbed the route previously and was to show David the way. They did not have any ropes, ice axes, gloves, or rain gear. Both men were clothed in all cotton, and had strap-on crampons which they wore over cloth boots. After ascending Lamb's Slide and crossing Broadway Ledge, George Gallegos became confused and mistook the North Couloir for Kiener's Route. When part way up the North Couloir (AI 3, 5.5), George was unable to continue because of unsteady footing in the snow. The two called for help for about 45 minutes, after which David continued to the top and down the Keyhole Route, where he borrowed a cell phone to call 911. Three climbers and later two RMNP rescue climbers assisted George Gallegos back to the base of the East Face of Longs Peak.

Analysis

The Gallegos brothers had insufficient experience and inadequate equipment for an East Face climb on Longs Peak. Unroped falls from both Kiener's Route and the Notch Couloir have occurred in the past and resulted in fatalities. Unroped falls and ascents without adequate snow/ice equipment have also resulted in injuries and fatalities on Lamb's Slide. George Gallegos had been rescued previously in a similar incident on Mount Evans. (Source: Jim Detterline, Longs Peak Supervisory Climbing Ranger

FALLING ROCK

Nevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCA

On May 2, on the fifth pitch of the Original Route (5.9,A2) on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock Canyon, a climber (35) accidentally dislodged a four foot by two foot by six inch sandstone block that fell 100 feet before striking his partner (34)on the back of his head and back. The two then rappelled to the base of the route, where the victim was placed in his sleeping bag and his partner left to find help. The Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department SAR unit responded, and the victim was successfully evacuated by litter and helicopter. In addition to the injuries to his head, he had a tension pneumothorax.

Analysis

Loose rock is common on many of the routes here, even the ones that experience a lot of traffic. The victim's helmet was deeply scored, and given the laceration on his scalp under the helmet and the size and force of the falling block, he almost certainly would have been killed had he not been wearing a helmet.

Being able to self-rescue to the bottom of the route, even though the victim was not able to walk out, made a reasonably timely rescue possible. It may have prevented the victim from becoming hypothermic or developing a life threatening tension pneumothorax during the course of what would have been a complex night time big wall rescue. (Source: James Roberts, Las Vegas Metropolitan Police Department SAR)

(Editor's Note: Two other accidents were reported from this area. One involved a hiker [65] who found himself in a climbing situation, desperately stranded as a result of separating from his partners without telling them. He was located and flown to safety. The other victim was a novice ice climber who was " bouldering" on ice while his partner prepared to climb. The victim fell ten feet, fracturing his leg. A cell phone contact with the rescue team probably prevented hypothermia, but, as they noted, cellular phones cannot take the place of good judgment.)

FALL ON SNOW - FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS

Oregon, Mount Hood, South Side

On April 4, a climber (32) was glissading below Crater Rock when his crampons snagged on hard snow, resulting in a fractured tibia. (Source: Jeff Sheetz, Portland Mountain Rescue)

(Editor's Note: Perhaps we should put New Hampshire guide George Hurley's mantra on all crampons: "There is no good reason for glissading with sharp spikes on our feet."