The American Alpine Journal
Published since 1929, The American Alpine Journal is the premiere annual record of significant mountaineering and long rock climbing ascents worldwide. American Alpine Club members receive the 500-page American Alpine Journal (retail $35) free with membership.
On this page you will find downloads of various AAJ articles, guidelines for submitting new climb reports to the AAJ, and indexes to the complete AAJ collection. Corrections to past editions are listed at the bottom of this page.
AAC members also have online access to the 2007 edition, completed stories from the 2008 edition, and a collection of unpublished topos and route photos at AAJ Topos. Log on at the Members Only page to access these benefits.
You can search the full text of every edition of the AAJ from 1929 through 2007 by clicking the link below:
Index
The AAJ comprehensive index allows you to locate reports of climbs based on region, country, climber, and peak name. PDF versions are available by clicking on:
AAJ Index 1929-2007.pdf (3.7 MBytes)
AAJ Book Reviews 1929-2007.pdf (305 KBytes)
Submissions
If you recently completed a long new route, we would like a report for the next AAJ. Please consult our AAJ Submissions Guidelines prior to sending materials. Questions should be directed to the editor (aaj@americanalpineclub.org).
Purchasing the AAJ
The current edition of the AAJ is available in many bookstores and climbing shops, and can be ordered directly from The Mountaineers Books; 800.553.4453). Back issues for many years are available.
AAJ Topos
AAC members can access a collection of topos, maps, and annotated photos that do not make it into each year's printed AAJ. Log on at the Members Only page and then look for the AAJ Topos link on the left.
To submit topos for climbs that have been featured in the AAJ, please send them to aaj@AmericanAlpineClub.org.
Support Us
The American Alpine Journal and the AAJ Online are made possible by American Alpine Club members and supporters. Please consider joining or supporting the AAC.
Articles and Extras
The following articles are available as free downloadable PDFs by clicking the links. We encourage reproduction of these articles on websites and in print, but credit must be given to the American Alpine Journal and the authors; contact the Editor at aaj@americanalpineclub.org before publication.
Tien Shan Panorama: This high-resolution panorama photo of the Chinese side of the Tien Shan was too big to publish in the 2007 American Alpine Journal, where the Chinese Tien Shan was featured. Download it here to begin exploring the range. (9 mb)
AAJ Grade Comparison Chart: This 4-page chart compares the world’s rock, ice, and alpine climbing grades and is useful for traveling and for deciphering the AAJ and other international climbing publications. Sponsored by W. L. Gore/Shipton-Tilman Grants. (472 KBytes)
A Logical Dilemma: When it comes to bolts, one climber’s “progress” becomes another climber’s theft from the future of adventure. This article centers on today’s longest sport route, “Logical Progression” on Mexico’s El Gigante wall, but the issues and debaters are worldwide. Contributors include Jeff Achey, Chris Bonington, Sean Easton, Carlos Garcia, Alexander Huber, Royal Robbins, and many more. Originally published in AAJ 2003. (1.1 MBytes)
The Tyrol Declaration: In the fall of 2002 nearly 100 of the world’s leading climbers gathered in Innsbruck to debate the “Best Practices in Mountain Sports.” The Tyrol Declaration is their consensus on contemporary standards of behavior on 10 major themes, from how to deal with injured climbers to the ethical use of bolts in the mountains. Originally published in AAJ 2003. (768 KBytes)
Cerro Torre – “A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre’s tallest tale”: This article, by Rolando Garibotti, explores Cesare Maestri’s claim to the first ascent of Argentina’s Cerro Torre. Published in AAJ 2004, pages 138-155.
Cerro Torre – Garibotti Bibliography: The complete reference list for “A Mountain Unveiled: A revealing analysis of Cerro Torre’s tallest tale,” by Rolando Garibotti. The article, including a highly abbreviated bibliography, was published in AAJ 2004, pages 138-155.
Success and Death on Mt. Everest: Historic trends, charts, graphs, and careful statistical analysis of those who climbed and/or died on Mt. Everest. This is the complete 8-page article by Raymond B. Huey and Richard Salisbury that was condensed in AAJ 2003.
Corrections
2007
• The date of the first ascent of Drastissima on the north face of Uli Biaho Tower, by Gabo Cmarik and Jozef "Dodo" Kopold, was reported incorrectly on page 78. The correct dates were June 21–23, 2006.
• The year given for the first ascent of Huiten in Outer Mongolia was inaccurate in the report on page 441. The first ascent was in 1956, by a Russian-Mongolian team, via the north ridge.
Contact Address for Submissions and Questions:
The American Alpine Journal
710 Tenth Street, Suite 140
Golden, Colorado 80401 USA
phone: 303.384.0110
fax: 303.384.0111
e-mail: aaj@americanalpineclub.org