The American Alpine Club

Interactive Simulator of High-Altitude Physiology Made Available Online

May 2008

AAC members Craig and Anne Knoche have created an online model of human altitude physiology that allows users to simulate the effects of changes in elevation, temperature, age, diet, and other factors on the body’s functions. Although much of this sophisticated simulation will be of interest mostly to medical professionals, the program’s tutorial will guide any climber to important conclusions about performance and safety at higher altitudes, including:

• Why barometric pressure is usually lower on the summit of Denali than on Chimborazo, even though the Ecuadoran peak is slightly higher than the Alaskan one.
• How a little supplemental oxygen can go a long way, and under which conditions it won’t.
• How diet, age, and disease effect blood oxygen saturation.
• Why hemoglobin concentration and cardiac output are relatively more important than blood oxygen saturation.
• The importance of persistent hyperventilation and carbon dioxide removal upon blood oxygen saturation.

The Knoches' business, Summit Performance Group, develops software simulations of human physiology for training emergency medical professionals. “In 2006 I worked Denali rescue patrol and witnessed first-hand how challenging it is for the rangers to educate climbers on the risks associated with climbing Denali,” Craig said. “In particular, many climbers don’t regard 20,000 feet as all that high, seeing that they’d been that high before in Ecuador or Nepal. People just didn’t appreciate the affects of cold, northern latitude, and starting at 200 feet above sea level in Talkeetna.”

Whether you’re a doctor or simply a dedicated mountaineer, this is a fascinating tool to experiment with. Click here to get started.

Email Craig Knoche with comments and inquiries regarding the simulator.

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