Dear Members,
Since I last wrote we have been working rather diligently to follow our
shipments of goods to Pakistan. Only in the last few days have our
materials begun to arrive in Islamabad where they are being retrieved by
the Alpine Club of Pakistan.
It continues to be a long strange trip for some of
our “Coats for Pakistan.” While over 20 pallets are in Islamabad and
either at the airport or already at the Alpine Club, we understand that
several pallets remain in Bahrain and Abu Dhabi waiting for space on
planes into the country.
As you might imagine, our boxes are among a huge
amount of material moving into the country. While I wish I could report it
is all there and in use, I am only able to say that some of it is and that
we know where the rest is and that it will be there soon.
I do want to report the beginnings of our partnership
with the Joshua Tree Climbers Ranch
http://www.climbersranch.com/ . We making some small grants to support
the Ranch expenses for this winter and have made a gift of two picnic
tables. I mention this here for two reasons. First, it you are traveling
to Joshua Tree and can’t find a spot in the park, this is an option for
you. Second, the ranch is in need of a small trailer to house the
campground host and for folks to gather in occasionally if the weather
isn’t cooperating.
You will soon receive our annual appeal. Like many
organizations this year, our budget suffers due to the vast support
demanded by natural disasters around the world. The Club does need your
help so please look for our appeal in your mailbox and look fondly on it
when you find it.
The staff and I wish you the happiest of holidays
and great climbing in 2006.
Warmly,
Phil
Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org

The ruined town of Balakot, Pakistan.
Photo by Sarfraz Khan, courtesy of the Central Asia Institute.
PAKISTAN RELIEF EFFORTS CONTINUE
Following the AAC’s extremely successful Pakistan-relief drive, other
efforts are continuing to aid victims of the devastating earthquake. In
late November, the AAC shipped 1,000 boxes of gear and clothing (more than
12 tons) and raised more than $30,000 for earthquake relief.
On December 15, AAC members Steve Swenson, Jim Wickwire, Jim Whittaker
and Dee Molenaar headlined a benefit slideshow and life auction at the REI
store in Seattle; an equipment and clothing drive is continuing in the
Seattle area through December 29, and the collected gear will be sent to
Asia courtesy of the Pakistan Association of Greater Seattle. For more
information, visit
http://www.climbersactionnetwork.org/pakistan.
The North Face stores conducted their own relief drive in November,
collecting five tons of gear and clothing at their 10 stores, and now a
team of North Face athletes is in Kashmir helping to deliver supplies, in
partnership with Kashmir Earthquake Relief (www.kashmirrelief.org)
Their reports make moving reading: See these at
http://www.humanedgetech.com/expedition/nf10/.
Another organization, www.quakehelp.net, is coordinating ongoing
gear-collection efforts around the country. If you plan to donate to one
of these drives, please note that the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the AAC’s
main Asian partner in earthquake relief, says that adequate supplies of
warm clothing are already on hand. The priority need is for tents,
blankets and sleeping bags. You can read an excellent report on the
aftermath of the earthquake and the Alpine Club of Pakistan’s relief
efforts at
http://www.climbersactionnetwork.org/pakistan/earthquake_northern_pakistan.pdf.
FREE ICE CLINICS AT ’06
MOUNTAIN FEST
Register early for the 2006 Annual Meeting and Mountain Fest, February
10-12, in Attitash, New Hampshire, and you could climb for a half-day with
Conrad Anker, Kelly Cordes, Jim Donini or Mark Richey. These four ice
experts are teaching clinics on Saturday and Sunday morning at the
Mountain Fest; the cost is included in the price of registration. Space is
extremely limited, so sign up early. If you can’t get in, consider a
course with another expert guide at the Mount Washington Valley Ice
Festival, held the same weekend in nearby North Conway. Get info at
http://www.ime-usa.com/ice_festival/.
Back by popular demand at the AAC Mountain Fest will be
the Ladies Base Camp Lunch, an opportunity to share climbing experiences
and make new friends. To see the full Mountain Fest schedule, including an
amazing array of speakers, and to register for the event, visit
www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp. Remember that
mid-February is peak ski season in the White Mountains, so register and
book your lodging and travel as soon as possible!
WANTED: TRAILER FOR
JOSHUA TREE CAMPGROUND
The AAC is seeking the donation of a trailer for the
Joshua Tree Climber’s Ranch, a low-cost climbers’ campground under
development outside the popular national park (http://climbersranch.com/).
The trailer would provide a home for a campground host during the climbing
season. Potential donors from the Southern California area should contact
Nigel Gregory at
ngregory@americanalpineclub.org.
JUDGE DISMISSES YOSEMITE
ROCKFALL CASE
A $10 million wrongful-death lawsuit filed by the family of a climber
killed by rockfall in Yosemite Valley has been dismissed in federal court.
The U.S. District Court judge ruled that Yosemite National Park officials
were not required to post warnings by the Glacier Point Apron, where Peter
Terbush was killed by falling rocks while belaying. The Apron has seen
several large rockslides in recent years, and the family charged that the
National Park Service contributed to the danger by failing to fix a water
system on top of the cliff and then did not adequately warn visitors of
the risk. Had the decision gone against the government, it might have led
to increased restrictions on climbers. AAC Safety Committee Chair and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering Editor Jed Williamson testified
as an expert witness in the case.
AAC ADDRESSING INDIAN CREEK
WASTE
The BLM has approved a management plan for Indian Creek, Utah, one of the
best crack climbing areas in the world, that allows climbing and camping
to continue mostly in its current unregulated form. In order to preserve
the primitive camping experience in Indian Creek, the BLM is requiring
climbers to carry out all of their waste, including feces. Later this
winter, the Friends of Indian Creek, with funding from the AAC, will
install three kiosks dispensing Wag Bags, and climbers must deposit their
waste in these bags and carry it back to town for proper disposal.

“Simply stated, the time for control of human waste has
come,” said Jim Donini, a member of Friends of Indian Creek and an AAC
board member. “Such controls have been in place and effective for river
trips for years. If we want to keep from sliding down the slippery path of
additional unwanted infrastructure, we must do the same.”
The AAC and Access Fund backed a similar carry-it-out
program at the base of popular Castleton Tower outside Moab, Utah. This
fall, climbers used nearly 200 Wag Bags at the Castleton campground, and
on-site donations covered most of the cost of the bags.
For more on the Indian Creek plans, visit the Friends of Indian Creek site
at
http://moabdesertadventures.com/foic.htm.
ROCK CLIMBING MEET IN NORTH
WALES
The British Mountaineering Club is inviting two AAC members to represent
the U.S. at its International Summer Climbing Meet in North Wales, May
7-14. The 2004 meet brought 50 climbers from 21 countries to pair up with
British climbers, sample superb Welsh rock climbing, and attend slideshows
and social gatherings in the evenings. It’s a great deal, as the BMC picks
up most of the cost other than airfare. Only two AAC members can attend.
If you’re an experienced traditional rock climber at any level and feel
you could represent the AAC well in Britain, contact Nancy Norris at
sundance2468@yahoo.com no
later than mid-January.
MOUNTAINFUND
AIDS SMALL NONPROFITS
If you’d like to contribute to small nonprofit
organizations working to improve the lives of mountain people worldwide,
the Mountain Fund may be a good place to start. The Mountain Fund is a
clearinghouse of information and fund-raising support for small,
grass-roots organizations doing humanitarian and environmental work in the
mountainous regions of the world. Check it out at
www.mountainfund.org.

AAC NOW ACCESSIBLE TO
MORE YOUNG CLIMBERS
Did you know that the “junior membership” category of the AAC now extends
through age 28, making low-cost AAC membership available to more young
climbers? Junior membership costs only $40 but comes with all of the AAC
benefits, including rescue insurance, the American Alpine Journal and
Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and full library privileges.
Consider the gift of a junior membership to a young climber in your life.
To sign up online, visit
http://eseries.americanalpineclub.org/ScriptContent/welcome.cfm
SIEVERS WINS ACCESS FUND AWARD
The AAC’s Central Rockies Section, Chairman Greg Sievers and dozens of
volunteers were honored with the Adopt-a-Crag of the Year Award by the
Access Fund and REI. Sievers and the Central Rockies Section have hosted
Lumpy Trail Days at Rocky Mountain National Park for five years in a row.
The Access Fund gave the annual Adopt-a-Crag Stewardship Award to the
Western Massachusetts Climbers’ Coalition. The Adopt-a-Crag Conservation
Award was presented to Lincoln Else, Ken Yager, the Yosemite Climbing
Association and volunteers for the second annual Yosemite Facelift in
September. See
http://accessfund.org/display/page/PR/33 for more information
on the award recipients and their stewardship programs.
WHAT WAS YOUR BEST DAY IN 2005?
The E-News would like to feature a few AAC members’ best days of climbing
of this year. If you had a great day out—or the expedition of a
lifetime—and would like to share a short trip report and a picture or two,
send your account to Dougald MacDonald at
dougald5@comcast.net.
COMING EVENTS
January 10
Alaska
The Alaska Section presents a slideshow by Sam Johnson on his ascent of
Trango II last summer. BP Energy Center, 900 E. Benson in Anchorage, at
6:30 p.m.
January 12-14
Colorado
The one and only Ouray Ice Festival. Info: 970-325-4288;
www.ourayicefestival.com.
January 13-15
New York
Cool ice and warm hospitality at the Adirondack International MountainFest
in Keene Valley. Info at 518-576-2281;
www.mountaineer.com.
January 21
Colorado
The Central Rockies Section will host the premiere of “Skiing the High
Himalaya,” a film by Mike Marolt. The evening will include food, drink, a
“Lost Images” show in which climbers will try to identify historic photos
from the AAC archives, and the new film of ski descents on Shishapangma
and Everest. $20 for the full evening at the American Mountaineering
Center in Golden. Info at
http://www.americanalpineclub.org/community/section_central_rockies.asp.
January 19-21
Wyoming
The second annual Barry Corbett Film Festival brings three nights of films
and parties to Jackson. Info:
http://www.alpinist.com/bcff/.
January 21-22
New York
The New York Section’s annual Adirondack Winter Outing, with ice climbing,
skiing and hiking. A formal invitation will be mailed to regional members
around year-end. Or, contact
philiperard@nysalpineclub.org.
January 22
Massachusetts
Mark Bowen will speak at Cary Hall in Lexington about his new book Thin
Ice: Unlocking the Secrets of Climate in the World's Highest Mountains.
The event is sponsored by the Lexington Global Warming Action Coalition.
Info on the book and other lecture dates may be found at
www.mark-bowen.com/author.html.
February 10-12
New Hampshire
The 2006 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be based at the
Attitash Grand Summit Hotel, in the middle of the White Mountains.
Climbing clinics, camaraderie and slideshows. See all the details at
www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp.
February 9-12
New Hampshire
The 13th Annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, held this year in
cooperation with the AAC Mountain Fest, features ice climbing and
mountaineering clinics, slideshows and socializing. Info at
http://www.ime-usa.com/ice_festival/.
February 17-20
Wyoming
The 8th Annual Cody Ice Festival.
Conditions so far this season are said to be the best in many years! Info
at
http://southforkice.com.
E-NEWS POLICIES
In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established
the following E-News policies.
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