February E-News 2005

Dear Members:

New techniques can make climbing safer, easier, and more fun, but they also may be abused. One such technique is the V-thread anchor for ice climbing, in which two intersecting holes are drilled in solid ice and a sling is threaded through the holes for a quick, solid, and inexpensive anchor. Problem is: When the ice melts, that sling becomes trash. As more climbers adopt the V-thread for a convenient anchor, land managers are starting to take notice.

Greg Sievers, chair of the Central Rockies Section of the AAC, reports the U.S. Forest Service has expressed concern over the quantity of V-thread slings littering drainages near Cody, Wyoming, home to some of the best ice climbs in the Lower 48. Many climbs sprout multiple V-threads within a few feet of each other, and slings and rap rings have been found hundreds of yards downhill from Cody’s ice formations. The Central Rockies Section donated materials for locals to install permanent rappel anchors on the most popular climbs where V-threads have been used. Recently, however, one of these anchors was discovered to have been chopped—a sad fate for an anchor designed to reduce climbers’ impact on these wild valleys.

The best climbs and climbers have always used the minimum tools and left the minimum impact on the environment. Ironically, in some cases minimum impact may mean a permanent anchor. As ice climbing grows ever more popular, the use of V-threads should be limited to the purposes for which they were designed: descents where no other option is available or emergency retreats.

[Photo] Adams Glacier, courtesy of the National Snowand Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology.

LAST CHANCE TO SIGN UP FOR OURAY
Only a couple of weeks to go until the 2005 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray, Colorado, March 4-6. Space is still available for the dinners and afternoon slide shows, and a few spots are open for the ice climbing clinics. Don’t miss your chance to attend the best AAC meeting in many years. Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp for complete info and a registration form. Or contact Erin Byerly at ebyerly@americanalpineclub.org or 303-384-0110, ext. 15.

Among the events at this gathering is the annual live auction of mountain memorabilia, with all proceeds benefiting the AAC. This year’s live auction on Saturday, March 5, will include:

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SEARCH
The search for a new executive director of the AAC has narrowed to two finalists, and a decision is expected soon. The search committee is comprised of Jim Ansara (Chair), Mark Richey, Steve Schwartz, Glenn Porzak, Steve Furman, Bob Craig, and Dougald MacDonald. After narrowing a huge pile of resumes to the most desirable applicants, the committee conducted numerous in-person interviews in the Boston area and in Colorado. With luck, an offer will be made by the end of the month and a new executive director will be at work by mid- to late March.

PAKISTAN RETAINS LOW PEAK FEES
As Nepal struggles with internal rebellion, Pakistan is hoping for a big season of mountain tourism, and it’s offering climbers another year of reduced peak fees. For K2, the fee is $6,000 for a team of seven, plus $1,000 for each additional climber. For all other 8,000-meter peaks, the fee is $4,500 for a team of seven. For peaks from 7,000 to 8,000 meters, the team fee ranges from $1,250 to $2,000, and for peaks from 6,000 to 7,000 meters, the team fee is just $700. In addition, the requirements for liaison officers and official tourism guides are much less onerous than in the past.

AAC STUDIES MERCED RIVER PLAN
The AAC is reviewing the recently released Merced Wild and Scenic River Draft Comprehensive Management Plan to determine its impact on climbing in Yosemite. While the plan focuses primarily on preserving the river corridor, it has the potential to affect non-river uses that occur within this 100- to 150-foot-wide corridor. Of particular concern are unofficial access trails to popular wilderness climbing routes, since wilderness areas within the corridor will contain restrictive human-encounter standards to preserve solitude. We hope to update members about the plan's impact in either the March E-News or a special email message focusing on the plan. You can view the voluminous plan at http://www.nps.gov/yose/planning/mrp/pdf/rmrp0105.pdf.

NEW INFO SOURCE FOR RWENZORI MOUNTAINS
A U.S. foreign-aid worker trying to help the Uganda Wildlife Authority promote tourism in Rwenzori Mountains National Park has launched an online user group to share information about the wild “Mountains of the Moon.” Scott Wayne, moderator of the group, says, “The Rwenzoris are renowned as one of Africa's greatest and highest mountain ranges, ranking with Kilimanjaro and Mt. Kenya as great climbing destinations. Over the past 15 years, they have attracted at least 6,000 trekkers.” To check out the new user group, visit http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Rwenzori_Mountains/

LIBRARY UPDATE
The AAC library has a new assistant: Gary Landeck, a runner and peakbagger with several years of experience in the Denver Public Library system. He can be reached at glandeck@americanalpineclub.org. Many new guidebooks have arrived at the library, including guides for Singapore, Joshua Tree, Hueco Tanks, and New England. For your listening pleasure, Dave Roberts’ Four Against the Arctic is available as a books-on-tape DVD, and Beck Weathers’ Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest is on audio cassette. Study up on technique with new books on snowshoeing and gym climbing and DVDs on clean climbing. The library has purchased over 200 new titles so far this year--if they don’t have what you need, they can probably get it. Contact library@americanalpineclub.org, or check out the online catalog at http://americanalpineclub.library.net.

STAY FREE AT CAMP 4
The National Park Service is looking for volunteers to live and work in Yosemite’s Camp 4 this summer, helping to lessen the impact of human-bear interactions. Volunteers can climb all day and camp for free; in the evenings they must work four hours or more to help educate campers about food storage and bear behavior; the commitment is one week on and one week off, for a minimum of a month. For more info or to apply, visit http://www.volunteer.gov/gov/uidetail.cfm?ID=4483.

COURT REJECTS CAVE ROCK CLIMBING
A federal judge has rejected a lawsuit that sought to overturn a U.S. Forest Service ban of climbing at Cave Rock, Nevada. The Forest Service decided to ban climbing at the sport area in 2003, and the Access Fund sued after attempting administrative appeals, claiming, in part, that the ban was an unconstitutional closure of public property for religious purposes. Cave Rock is considered sacred by the Washoe Indians. The Access Fund board will meet in late February to discuss a possible appeal of the court ruling. The Forest Service has said it will remove all fixed anchors at the site as soon as the closure becomes permanent.

PHOTOS SOUGHT FOR GLACIER RESEARCH
Researchers at Portland State University are seeking photographs of alpine glaciers in the Lower 48, particularly historic or current photos that show the terminus (snout) of the glacier with the surrounding landscape in late summer. Andrew Fountain of the university’s Department of Geology, writes, “We intend to compare photos of the same glacier, but taken over different times, to infer the magnitude of glacier advance or retreat. This is part of a project to assess glacier change over the past 100+ years. We will make the data derived from the photos available to all using our web site: www.glaciers.us.” For more information or to make arrangements to deliver photos, contact Fountain at Andrew@pdx.edu.

Portland State is cooperating with another fascinating collection of historical glacier photographs at the National Snow and Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology. These photographs are primarily of Alaskan glaciers but also include the Pacific Northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and Europe. Many of the photographs in this remarkable collection have been digitized and can be viewed online. Go to http://nsidc.org/data/glacier_photo/photo_query.html to check out your favorite glacier.

GRANTS DEADLINE APPROACHES
Time is running out to apply for a grant from the AAC this year. March 1 is the deadline for the new Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant, which is accepting applications from expeditions tackling a worthy alpine objective while also performing a humanitarian service. March 1 is also the deadline for the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants (for cutting-edge climbs), the AAC Research Grants (for scientific research related to the AAC’s mission), and the Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Grant (for environmentally proactive expeditions). Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp to learn more about these grants or to apply.

Been climbing? The E-News features a different AAC member’s interesting climb each edition. Send a short report (250 words or less) on your latest dream climb, and you could be featured in the next E-News. Digital photos also are welcome. Contact: dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org.

COMING EVENTS
February 26
Alaska
Because It Had to Be Done, a black-tie-and-blue-jeans gala benefit for climber and cancer patient Mike Howerton, will be held at the Alyeska Prince Hotel in Girdwood, Alaska. Individual tickets are $50; corporate tables are available. Info at 907-301-5770.

March 3-6
The 2005 Arc’teryx Canmore Ice Climbing Festival features competitions, slide shows, gear demos, and clinics. Visit www.canmoreiceclimbingfestival.com.

March 4-6
Colorado
The 2005 American Alpine Club Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing clinics, great slideshows, dinners, dancing, and more! Info and registration materials at www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp.

March 5-6
New York
The third Annual Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival in Keene Valley will feature clinics, demos, a slide show and dinner. See www.mountaineer.com.

March 15
Washington
Jon Otto will do a slideshow on his ascent of the Southeast Ridge of beautiful Mt. Siguniang (20,500 feet) in China with a team of Chinese climbers. 7 p.m. at The North Face, 1023 1st Avenue in Seattle.

March 18-20
Nevada
The 2nd annual Red Rock Rendezvous, outside Las Vegas, features slideshows, dinner parties, live music and beer, a pancake breakfast, demos, and clinics. For more information or to register, visit www.mgear.com/rrr.

March 19
Washington
A memorial for the late Pete Schoening will be held at 2 p.m. at the Overlake School in Redmond, Wash. The 90-minute program will be followed by a reception. RSVP to Eric Schoening at eschoening@comcast.net.

E-NEWS POLICIES
In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the following E-News policies.

The AAC office in Golden is the only source of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses to anyone for any purpose and will have no commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.

Send comments, suggestions or news items to dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org.

If you know an AAC member who isn’t receiving the E-News, it’s probably because the AAC does not have his or her email address. New addresses or address changes should be sent to getinfo@americanalpineclub.org.


	This Issue: LAST CHANCE TO SIGN UP FOR OURAY EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SEARCH PAKISTAN RETAINS LOW PEAK FEES AAC STUDIES MERCED RIVER PLAN NEW INFO SOURCE FOR RWENZORI MOUNTAINS LIBRARY UPDATE STAY FREE AT CAMP 4 COURT REJECTS CAVE ROCK CLIMBING PHOTOS SOUGHT FOR GLACIER RESEARCH GRANTS DEADLINE APPROACHES COMING EVENTS

Dear Members: New techniques can make climbing safer, easier, and more fun, but they also may be abused. One such technique is the V-thread anchor for ice climbing, in which two intersecting holes are drilled in solid ice and a sling is threaded through the holes for a quick, solid, and inexpensive anchor. Problem is: When the ice melts, that sling becomes trash. As more climbers adopt the V-thread for a convenient anchor, land managers are starting to take notice. Greg Sievers, chair of the Central Rockies Section of the AAC, reports the U.S. Forest Service has expressed concern over the quantity of V-thread slings littering drainages near Cody, Wyoming, home to some of the best ice climbs in the Lower 48. Many climbs sprout multiple V-threads within a few feet of each other, and slings and rap rings have been found hundreds of yards downhill from Cody’s ice formations. The Central Rockies Section donated materials for locals to install permanent rappel anchors on the most popular climbs where V-threads have been used. Recently, however, one of these anchors was discovered to have been chopped—a sad fate for an anchor designed to reduce climbers’ impact on these wild valleys. The best climbs and climbers have always used the minimum tools and left the minimum impact on the environment. Ironically, in some cases minimum impact may mean a permanent anchor. As ice climbing grows ever more popular, the use of V-threads should be limited to the purposes for which they were designed: descents where no other option is available or emergency retreats. Comments? Email Greg Sievers at gsievers57@cs.com or me at dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org. Dougald MacDonald E-News Editor/Interim Executive Director [Photo] Adams Glacier, courtesy of the National Snowand Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology. LAST CHANCE TO SIGN UP FOR OURAY Only a couple of weeks to go until the 2005 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray, Colorado, March 4-6. Space is still available for the dinners and afternoon slide shows, and a few spots are open for the ice climbing clinics. Don’t miss your chance to attend the best AAC meeting in many years. Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp for complete info and a registration form. Or contact Erin Byerly at ebyerly@americanalpineclub.org or 303-384-0110, ext. 15. Among the events at this gathering is the annual live auction of mountain memorabilia, with all proceeds benefiting the AAC. This year’s live auction on Saturday, March 5, will include: 1. A gorgeous Brad Washburn print, “Tokositna Twilight”, 1978, framed and matted. Starting bid: $1,000. 2. A stunning 38-inch by 10-inch panorama print of Kilimanjaro by Susan Basch, in collaboration with George Basch: “Machwazuri ya Kilimanjaro” (“Lovely Sunset of Kilimanjaro”). Starting bid: $750. 3. Set of 34 issues of the American Alpine Journal, from 1946 to 2003, donated by Peter Renz. Starting bid: $550. 4. The Exploration of the Caucasus, by Douglas Freshfield, with illustrations by Vittorio Sella. London: Edward Arnold, 1896. 2 volumes, with maps and panoramic fold-outs, complete. Starting bid: $1,150. 5. A unique Mt. Everest Bell created from an Everest 02 cylinder, donated by Jeff Clapp. Featured in the Winter edition of the American Alpine News. Starting bid: $1,000. You’ve got to be there to get in on the action, so register today! EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SEARCH The search for a new executive director of the AAC has narrowed to two finalists, and a decision is expected soon. The search committee is comprised of Jim Ansara (Chair), Mark Richey, Steve Schwartz, Glenn Porzak, Steve Furman, Bob Craig, and Dougald MacDonald. After narrowing a huge pile of resumes to the most desirable applicants, the committee conducted numerous in-person interviews in the Boston area and in Colorado. With luck, an offer will be made by the end of the month and a new executive director will be at work by mid- to late March. PAKISTAN RETAINS LOW PEAK FEES As Nepal struggles with internal rebellion, Pakistan is hoping for a big season of mountain tourism, and it’s offering climbers another year of reduced peak fees. For K2, the fee is $6,000 for a team of seven, plus $1,000 for each additional climber. For all other 8,000-meter peaks, the fee is $4,500 for a team of seven. For peaks from 7,000 to 8,000 meters, the team fee ranges from $1,250 to $2,000, and for peaks from 6,000 to 7,000 meters, the team fee is just $700. In addition, the requirements for liaison officers and official tourism guides are much less onerous than in the past. AAC STUDIES MERCED RIVER PLAN The AAC is reviewing the recently released Merced Wild and Scenic River Draft Comprehensive Management Plan to determine its impact on climbing in Yosemite. While the plan focuses primarily on preserving the river corridor, it has the potential to affect non-river uses that occur within this 100- to 150-foot-wide corridor. Of particular concern are unofficial access trails to popular wilderness climbing routes, since wilderness areas within the corridor will contain restrictive human-encounter standards to preserve solitude. We hope to update members about the plan's impact in either the March E-News or a special email message focusing on the plan. You can view the voluminous plan at http://www.nps.gov/yose/planning/mrp/pdf/rmrp0105.pdf. NEW INFO SOURCE FOR RWENZORI MOUNTAINS A U.S. foreign-aid worker trying to help the Uganda Wildlife Authority promote tourism in Rwenzori Mountains National Park has launched an online user group to share information about the wild “Mountains of the Moon.” Scott Wayne, moderator of the group, says, “The Rwenzoris are renowned as one of Africa's greatest and highest mountain ranges, ranking with Kilimanjaro and Mt. Kenya as great climbing destinations. Over the past 15 years, they have attracted at least 6,000 trekkers.” To check out the new user group, visit http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Rwenzori_Mountains/ LIBRARY UPDATE The AAC library has a new assistant: Gary Landeck, a runner and peakbagger with several years of experience in the Denver Public Library system. He can be reached at glandeck@americanalpineclub.org. Many new guidebooks have arrived at the library, including guides for Singapore, Joshua Tree, Hueco Tanks, and New England. For your listening pleasure, Dave Roberts’ Four Against the Arctic is available as a books-on-tape DVD, and Beck Weathers’ Left for Dead: My Journey Home from Everest is on audio cassette. Study up on technique with new books on snowshoeing and gym climbing and DVDs on clean climbing. The library has purchased over 200 new titles so far this year--if they don’t have what you need, they can probably get it. Contact library@americanalpineclub.org, or check out the online catalog at http://americanalpineclub.library.net. STAY FREE AT CAMP 4 The National Park Service is looking for volunteers to live and work in Yosemite’s Camp 4 this summer, helping to lessen the impact of human-bear interactions. Volunteers can climb all day and camp for free; in the evenings they must work four hours or more to help educate campers about food storage and bear behavior; the commitment is one week on and one week off, for a minimum of a month. For more info or to apply, visit http://www.volunteer.gov/gov/uidetail.cfm?ID=4483. COURT REJECTS CAVE ROCK CLIMBING A federal judge has rejected a lawsuit that sought to overturn a U.S. Forest Service ban of climbing at Cave Rock, Nevada. The Forest Service decided to ban climbing at the sport area in 2003, and the Access Fund sued after attempting administrative appeals, claiming, in part, that the ban was an unconstitutional closure of public property for religious purposes. Cave Rock is considered sacred by the Washoe Indians. The Access Fund board will meet in late February to discuss a possible appeal of the court ruling. The Forest Service has said it will remove all fixed anchors at the site as soon as the closure becomes permanent. PHOTOS SOUGHT FOR GLACIER RESEARCH Researchers at Portland State University are seeking photographs of alpine glaciers in the Lower 48, particularly historic or current photos that show the terminus (snout) of the glacier with the surrounding landscape in late summer. Andrew Fountain of the university’s Department of Geology, writes, “We intend to compare photos of the same glacier, but taken over different times, to infer the magnitude of glacier advance or retreat. This is part of a project to assess glacier change over the past 100+ years. We will make the data derived from the photos available to all using our web site: www.glaciers.us.” For more information or to make arrangements to deliver photos, contact Fountain at Andrew@pdx.edu. Portland State is cooperating with another fascinating collection of historical glacier photographs at the National Snow and Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology. These photographs are primarily of Alaskan glaciers but also include the Pacific Northwest, the Rocky Mountains, and Europe. Many of the photographs in this remarkable collection have been digitized and can be viewed online. Go to http://nsidc.org/data/glacier_photo/photo_query.html to check out your favorite glacier. Adams Glacier, 1936 Brenva Glacier, 1936 Teton Glacier, 1936. All photos courtesy of the National Snow and Ice Data Center/World Data Center for Glaciology GRANTS DEADLINE APPROACHES Time is running out to apply for a grant from the AAC this year. March 1 is the deadline for the new Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant, which is accepting applications from expeditions tackling a worthy alpine objective while also performing a humanitarian service. March 1 is also the deadline for the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants (for cutting-edge climbs), the AAC Research Grants (for scientific research related to the AAC’s mission), and the Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Grant (for environmentally proactive expeditions). Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp to learn more about these grants or to apply. Been climbing? The E-News features a different AAC member’s interesting climb each edition. Send a short report (250 words or less) on your latest dream climb, and you could be featured in the next E-News. Digital photos also are welcome. Contact: dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org. COMING EVENTS February 26 Alaska Because It Had to Be Done, a black-tie-and-blue-jeans gala benefit for climber and cancer patient Mike Howerton, will be held at the Alyeska Prince Hotel in Girdwood, Alaska. Individual tickets are $50; corporate tables are available. Info at 907-301-5770. March 3-6 The 2005 Arc’teryx Canmore Ice Climbing Festival features competitions, slide shows, gear demos, and clinics. Visit www.canmoreiceclimbingfestival.com. March 4-6 Colorado The 2005 American Alpine Club Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing clinics, great slideshows, dinners, dancing, and more! Info and registration materials at www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp. March 5-6 New York The third Annual Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival in Keene Valley will feature clinics, demos, a slide show and dinner. See www.mountaineer.com. March 15 Washington Jon Otto will do a slideshow on his ascent of the Southeast Ridge of beautiful Mt. Siguniang (20,500 feet) in China with a team of Chinese climbers. 7 p.m. at The North Face, 1023 1st Avenue in Seattle. Mt. Siguniang Photo courtesy of Spring (Chun) Cheng. March 18-20 Nevada The 2nd annual Red Rock Rendezvous, outside Las Vegas, features slideshows, dinner parties, live music and beer, a pancake breakfast, demos, and clinics. For more information or to register, visit www.mgear.com/rrr. March 19 Washington A memorial for the late Pete Schoening will be held at 2 p.m. at the Overlake School in Redmond, Wash. The 90-minute program will be followed by a reception. RSVP to Eric Schoening at eschoening@comcast.net. E-NEWS POLICIES In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the following E-News policies. The AAC office in Golden is the only source of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses to anyone for any purpose and will have no commercial advertising of any kind in E-News. Send comments, suggestions or news items to dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org. If you know an AAC member who isn’t receiving the E-News, it’s probably because the AAC does not have his or her email address. New addresses or address changes should be sent to getinfo@americanalpineclub.org. To unsubscribe please contact getinfo@americanalpineclub.org