This Issue

Dear Members:

When I started climbing frozen waterfalls more than 25 years ago, my partners and I often were completely alone at the crags. We could not have imagined today’s jammed parking lots and lines for climbs at Frankenstein or Chapel Pond or Vail. Ice climbing was too cold, too hard, and too scary to ever catch on. Or so we thought.

Well, of course, ice climbing is amazingly popular today, thanks in part to vastly improved tools, boots, clothing, and protection. Another reason is good instruction—we had to pretty much figure it out on our own back in the 70s, but now there ice festivals and clinics nearly every winter weekend. A summary of this winter’s festivals is included in this issue’s event listings, but don’t forget the AAC’s own Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray, Colorado, on March 4-6. This year we’re featuring ice, mixed and backcountry skiing clinics taught by some of America’s best climbers. Space is filling very fast—visit www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp for complete info and a registration form.

GREG CHILD TO SPEAK AT ANNUAL DINNER
Australian-American climber and author Greg Child will be the keynote speaker at the 2005 annual dinner in Ouray. Child has climbed Shivling, Gasherbrum IV, Trango Tower, K2 and Shipton Spire, among many other peaks. A superb storyteller, he is he author of four books and is an Emmy-winning documentary filmmaker. Originally, Reinhold Messner had been slated to speak at the annual dinner, but he informed the AAC last month that he was unwilling to visit America at this time. Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp for information on all of the speakers at this year’s Mountain Fest.

RALLY FOR RAILAY
Many climbers have visited the amazing limestone cliffs of Railay Beach and Phi Phi Island in Thailand and may wish to help victims of December’s devastating tsunami. One way to send money to Railay locals who lost boats, homes, businesses, friends and relatives is to make a donation to the Rally for Railay Fund, administered by Sam Lightner, a longtime seasonal resident of the area with close ties to the local people. Send checks made payable to Rally for Railay Fund, c/o Sam Lightner, P.O. Box 987, Banff, Alberta, T1L 1A9, Canada.

Otherwise, the best thing climbers can do for the locals in these tourism-dependent areas is to plan a visit soon. The hotels, restaurants, and boats are all operating fully, and the local businesspeople could desperately use some business.

MORE HUTS JOIN AAC SYSTEM
Huts Committee Chairman Greg Sievers has announced that AAC members will receive substantial lodging discounts in five new areas. The Appalachian Mountain Club has partnered with the AAC to offer member rates at all of its facilities in New England, including the eight high-mountain huts in the Presidential Range. AAC members also will receive a 25% discount on stays at the Mazama Lodge at the base of Mount Hood in Oregon. In another partnership, the Alpine Club of Canada is offering AAC discounts at the Keener Farm, a cabin and campground in the Adirondacks of New York. In addition, discounts are now available at the Hueco Rock Ranch (Hueco Tanks, Texas) and the Mountain Studies Institute at the Historic Avon Hotel (Silverton, Colorado).
With these great new additions to the AAC hut system, members receive discounts at more than two dozen facilities in seven states, thanks to the hard work of the Huts Committee and the AAC staff. For the full list, visit www.americanalpineclub.org/community/ranches-huts.asp.

LIBRARY WINS PRESERVATION GRANT
The Henry S. Hall, Jr. American Alpine Club Library has been awarded a $5,000 Preservation Assistance Grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities. A portion of the funds will be used to hire a conservator to do a preservation assessment of the library’s large photo collection, and the remainder will be used for shelving and archival supplies. Work will begin in February. This grant will greatly improve storage of the AAC’s photo collection and, perhaps even more important, will allow the library to apply for a much larger NEH grant that could be used to fund a professional archivist for one year.

“This grant is a recognition of the caliber and extent of our collections, and of the level of support that the library receives within the AAC,” said Library Director Bridget Burke. “It recognizes the AAC as having a collection of national significance.”

THE BENEFITS OF YELLOW SNOW
Forget those transceivers and shovels—the most important avalanche equipment is beer. According to the Ananova news service, a Slovak man saved himself after an avalanche had buried his car by drinking heavily from his stash of 60 bottles of beer and then urinating on the snow around his car to melt it. Richard Kral told reporters, "I was scooping the snow from above me and packing it down below the window, and then I peed on it to melt it. It was hard and now my kidneys and liver hurt. But I'm glad the beer I took on holiday turned out to be useful.” Want the rest of the story? Visit www.ananova.com/news/story/sm_1261997.html?menu.

GOLDEN ICE AXES
As we enter the new year, let us celebrate a few extraordinary AAC members’ anniversaries. Topping the list are Honorary President Robert H. Bates and Charlie Houston, who joined the American Alpine Club 70 years ago in 1935. Our 60-year member for 2005 is Bill Putnam, a past president of the Club. And the following members all joined the Club exactly a half-century ago: Edward A. Ames, Linda Burdet, Robert Elsner, R. Sherman Lehman, Nancy A. Miller, John G. Mowat, Guido R. Rahr, Jr., Gibson Reynolds, Roland W. Tabor, and Paul W. Wiseman.

BASE CAMP LADIES LUNCH
Women attending the 2005 Mountain Fest and AAC annual meeting in Ouray may wish to sign up for a first-time Base Camp Ladies Lunch on Saturday, March 5. This exclusive luncheon for women will feature a special women’s slide show from Louise Thomas, a sneak preview of a new book by Arlene Blum, and stories from female climbers. Lunch will be available for purchase at the luncheon site. Please RSVP with your annual-meeting registration form if you plan to attend the Base Camp Ladies Lunch.

GRANTS DEADLINE APPROACHES
Know any climbers looking for money? Of course you do. Four AAC grant programs have March 1 deadlines for applications. The newest is the Zach Martin Breaking Barriers Grant, which is accepting applications for the first time from expeditions tackling a worthy alpine objective while also performing a humanitarian service. March 1 is also the deadline for the Lyman Spitzer Climbing Grants (for cutting-edge climbs), the AAC Research Grants (for scientific research related to the AAC’s mission), and the Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Grant (for environmentally proactive expeditions). Visit www.americanalpineclub.org/knowledge/grants.asp to learn more about these grants or to apply.

SUBJECTS NEEDED FOR CLIMBING STUDY
In April, an expedition of climbers, medical researchers and management researchers will travel to Mount Everest to support the summit bid of Dr. Sean Egan (who may become the oldest Canadian climber to summit Everest) and to collect data for a wide range of research into mountain medicine and the business of climbing. One of the research projects involves a better understanding of the impact of hypoxia and mountaineering hazards on the decision making and cognitive biases of high-altitude climbers. The researchers hope this research will lead to insights that improve the safety of high-altitude climbers. To implement this research project, a group of North American mountaineers is needed as "control subjects." This will involve answering two brief written questionnaires. Contact Dave Valliere at valliere@ryerson.ca.

THE GREAT WHITE NORTH
Ski mountaineers will find reasonably priced and spectacular trips north of the border through our friends at the Alpine Club of Canada. From a women’s camp to a Central Rockies traverse to Coast Range couloir descents, these six- to eight-day trips will satisfy any skier’s taste. For a look at the offerings visit www.alpineclubofcanada.ca or call 403-678-3200, ext. 112.

CHALK BLUFF REOPENED
Voluntary closures in the very popular Chalk Bluff bouldering area north of Bishop, California, have been lifted by the Bureau of Land Management as of Jan. 1. Climbers had been asked to stay out of the area for the past three years, and although access is now open the BLM reminds climbers to avoid disturbing raptors or suspected nest sites. This area is slated for an AAC-backed study of raptor habitat in the area, with the goal of establishing baseline data on nesting, mating, and hunting and to help the bureau make informed management decisions.

DISCOUNTED ICE GUIDING
Sean Easton, owner and head guide of Rockies Ice Specialists in Alberta, is offering AAC members a 15% discount on all bookings for guided climbs. Visit www.rockies-ice.com to see what’s available.

Been climbing? The E-News features a different AAC member’s interesting climb each edition. Send a short report (250 words or less) on your latest dream climb, and you could be featured in the next E-News. Digital photos also are welcome. Contact: dmacdonald@americanalpineclub.org.

COMING EVENTS
February 3-6
Michigan
The Michigan Ice Fest, the largest gathering of ice climbers in the Midwest, brings well-known climbers to Munsing for slide shows, workshops and a party. Contact www.downwindsports.com; 906-226-7112.

February 10-13
New Hampshire
The 12th Annual Mount Washington Valley Ice Festival, centered in North Conway, features clinics, slide shows and parties with some of North America’s best-known ice climbers. Visit www.ime-usa.com, or call 603-356-7064.

February 17
Colorado
“Transcendent Summits,” a slideshow and book signing by renowned mountaineer Gerry Roach, will be held at the CSU bookstore in Fort Collins. Info at www.bookstore.colostate.edu.

February 18-20
Wyoming
The Seventh Annual Waterfall Ice Festival in Cody, sponsored in part by the AAC’s Central Rockies Section, is an intimate festival featuring numerous events, generous swag and wild climbing. See www.southforkice.com.

February 18-20
Quebec
At the eighth annual Festiglace du Quebec The North Face, more than 5,000 climbers and other outdoor enthusiasts gather in Pont-Rouge, Quebec, for three days of fun. Info: www.festiglace.com.

February 26
Alaska
Because It Had to Be Done, a black-tie-and-blue-jeans gala benefit for climber and cancer patient Mike Howerton, will be held at the Alyeska Prince Hotel in Girdwood, Alaska. Individual tickets are $50; corporate tables are available. Info at 907-301-5770.

March 3-6
The 2005 Arc’teryx Canmore Ice Climbing Festival features competitions, slide shows, gear demos, and clinics. Visit www.canmoreiceclimbingfestival.com.

March 4-6
Colorado
The 2005 American Alpine Club Mountain Fest and annual meeting in Ouray. Ice climbing and backcountry skiing clinics, great slideshows, dinners, dancing, and more! Info and registration materials at www.americanalpineclub.org/community/events-annual.asp.

March 5-6
New York
The third Annual Adirondack Backcountry Ski Festival in Keene Valley will feature clinics, demos, a slide show and dinner. See www.mountaineer.com.

March 19
Washington
A memorial for the late Pete Schoening will be held at 2 p.m. at the Overlake School in Redmond, Wash. The 90-minute program will be followed by a reception. Please RSVP to eschoening@comcast.net or call 206-322-4700.

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