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The American Alpine Club E-News
June 2, 2006

In this issue

EVEREST NORTH RIDGE

CLIMBERS' RANCH OPENING SOON

SECTION LEADERS MEET IN GOLDEN

RESEARCH GRANTS ANNOUNCED

NEW AAC WEBSITE TO LAUNCH

REVISIT VINSON ON 40TH ANNIVERSARY

ROWELL AWARD SEEKS NOMINEES

AAC LIBRARY: BUILT BY MEMBERS

NEW CASCADE SECTION CHAIR

E-NEWS POLICIES


 

GRAND TETON “HUT FOR A DAY”
By special permission of Grand Teton National Park,members of the American Alpine Club will be able to use the Jackson Hole Mountain Guides’ Corbet High Camp as a climbing hut for the nights of June 23rd and 24th.

The camp is at 11,000 feet, near the toe of the Teepee Glacier on the Grand Teton, and it provides excellent access to rock climbing on Disappointment Peak, Teepee Pillar, and the Red Sentinel in addition to the Grand and Middle Teton. The camp will be stocked with tents and sleeping bags, and there is a hut for cooking and eating; a staff member will be there to help out at mealtimes and provide information.

The cost is $250 per person for the two night stay so find yourself a climbing partner and call Jackson Hole Mountain Guides to reserve your space: 307-733-4979 www.jhmg.com. **This is only available to AAC members.









COMING EVENTS

June 17
New Hampshire
New England Section gathering at Nancy Savickas’ Refuge Alpiniste in Albany, New Hampshire, starting at 5 p.m. INFO






June 22
Wyoming
Season opening party at the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, sponsored by Black Diamond. INFO or 307-733-7271






June 24-25
California
Climb-munity at Donner Summit. This is an excellent opportunity to join Sierra Nevada Section members and their guests in climbing the stellar granite crags of Donner Summit. Cost is $20/person to camp on private land. Contact SNS Leader Dave Riggs for more details: david.riggs@s chwab.com






June 24–26
West Virginia
Roxanna Brock and local trad master Tom Cecil will teach the “Trad Betty” traditional climbing seminar at Seneca Rocks. Ask all the questions you’re afraid to ask your friends and boyfriends. On June 24, Brock will present a slideshow on climbing in Siberia. Seneca Rocks Mountain Guides: 304-567-2115






July 5–9
Wyoming
13th annual International Climbers Festival in Lander: slideshows, clinics, parties and climbing. INFO






July 28–30
Colorado
Third annual Butte Bouldering Bonanza, centered around the Skyland Boulders near Crested Butte. Info: 970-275-0446 or email






July 29-30
California
Tioga Pass Climb-munity: Climbing and camping with easy access to Tuolumne Meadowsrock climbing and Tioga Pass mountaineering. Contact SNS Leader Dave Riggs at david.riggs@s chwab.com






March 30–April 1, 2007
Oregon
The 2007 AAC Mountain Fest and annual meeting will be in Bend, Oregon, close to the superb rock climbs of Smith Rock and the backcountry skiing and climbing in the Cascades. Reserve a room at the Riverhouse hotel and request an AAC rate as low as $72 a night: 1-800-547-3928.








Greetings!

Ten years after the tragedies of the 1996 pre- monsoon season on Mt. Everest, it is happening again. Ten deaths are confirmed this spring.

Two cases, both on the north side of the mountain, stand out as the most unfortunate. Up to 40 individuals are said to have passed the British climber David Sharp as he lay dying below the summit. Days later, Australian Lincoln Hall was left, considered dead, only to be found alive and rescued on the following day.

These episodes, devoid as they seem of mountaineering’s tradition of cooperation and concern for others, cast a nasty shadow on our sport. The media attention that these events attract exposes the worst for all to see. But these are isolated cases on a unique mountain. Both in the mountains and in my daily work here at the Club, the ethic of helping others in mountaineering remains strong.

Everest is our planet’s highest peak, a highly coveted summit. An infrastructure of fixed ropes, bottled oxygen and Sherpas who set camps and carry loads makes it possible for less practiced climbers to attempt the peak. The resulting large numbers—as many as 500 may summit this year—includes many who are ill prepared.

The two most reasonable routes up the mountain are the South Col Route from Nepal and the North Ridge from Tibet. Very few expeditions go to either of these routes without plans to use oxygen, fixed lines and Sherpa support to aid their ascent. According to AAC member Eric Simonson, who has guided many successful expeditions to Everest, “In David Sharp’s case, he basically got a couple bottles of O2 and a space in a tent at 27,000 feet—that is it. He was obviously not ready to handle the terrain above by himself, or to get himself down when he ran out of oxygen.”

We have yet to learn many of the details, so it is too early for a thorough analysis. I know how hard it would be to manage a rescue up high. Still, the concept of passing a dying man by, en route to a summit, is unfathomable to me.

While these events were unfolding in the Himalaya, a literal who’s who of American mountaineering history gathered here in Denver to celebrate Dr. Charlie Houston and the founding of the Altitude Research Center at the University of Colorado. Dr. Houston’s mountaineering achievements include attempts on K2 (28,254 feet) in 1938 and 1953. Like so many from his generation, he was also accomplished in other arenas; we all know of his pioneering research on the effects of altitude and hypoxia on the human body. His son Robin reports that he also built an artificial heart in his basement.

The list of people here to celebrate Dr. Houston’s life and the establishment of the Center included Dr. Tom Hornbein, Nick Clinch, Jim Wickwire, Congressman Mark Udall and the four other living members of the 1953 K2 expedition: Bob Bates, Bob Craig, Dee Molenaar and Tony Streather all the way from England.

These men represent the tradition of mountaineering that still dominates our sport today. In 1953, the K2 team famously abandoned any concern for the summit to attempt the rescue of fellow climber Art Gilkey. Their teamwork and concern for one another during the struggle for survival that ensued is legendary.

Our David A. Sowles Award is conferred from time to time on “mountaineers who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains.” The members of the 1953 K2 expedition were among the first recipients. After the 1996 Everest tragedies, three individuals were singled out to receive the prestigious award.

In 2001 seven climbers gave up their summit on Lhotse to rescue two who were near death from a substantially more difficult location than David Sharp’s. They received the award in 2002.

If you dig deeply enough, you’ll find glimpses of the best in mountaineering even in this year’s terrible chapter on Everest. The men that eventually came to Lincoln Hall’s aid—Dan Mazur, Dawa Sherpa, Myles Osborn, Andrew Brash, Jangbu Sherpa and Phil Crampton—gave up their summit to save his life. Even in the midst of some of the most sickening stories of selfishness and ego, the spirit of mountaineering remains strong.

Restpectfully yours,
Phil Powers
Executive Director
ppowers@americanalpineclub.org


  • EVEREST NORTH RIDGE
  • Read more about Everest's tragic spring at Mounteverest.net

  • CLIMBERS' RANCH OPENING SOON
  • Winter at the GTCR

    All this snow is gone now. Time to climb! Photo by Dougald MacDonald

    The AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch opens June 6, following the annual workweek at the Ranch (June 1–5). AAC member rates remain just $8 a night for a bed, shower, and all the camaraderie of the cooking pavilion; nonmember rates go up this year to $12 per night. To kick off the 2006 climbing season, Black Diamond is hosting a party at the Ranch on June 22.

    More Information...
  • SECTION LEADERS MEET IN GOLDEN
  • The first annual section heads summit was held May 19 at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden. Attending were half (seven) of the heads of regional AAC sections around the country, as well as several board members, new AAC President Jim Donini, and Jason Manke, the club’s membership coordinator. The AAC is making revitalization of its 14 sections one of its highest priorities. Participants explored how to make sections more effective and successful on a grass-roots level. (It was strongly felt that dovetailing with other like-minded organizations was important.) Also discussed were planning for succession of section chairs, subsection opportunities for large geographic areas, keeping section goals consistent with the AAC’s values, and the next steps necessary for the sections to move forward. Less glamorous but equally important items discussed included accounting procedures, fund-raising protocols, event planning, website management, and financial matters.

    All club members, and in particular all section heads, are invited to attend next year’s summit—date and place to be announced. Until then, direct all ideas for energizing regional sections to Jason Manke at jmanke@americanalpineclub.org or Section Committee Chair Charlotte Fox at cfoxalpine@ear thlink.net.

  • RESEARCH GRANTS ANNOUNCED
  • Eleven proposals have been selected for funding through AAC Research Grants in 2006. The Research Grants support modest requests to assist scientific projects that fall within the scope of the AAC’s charter. Among this year’s winners are:

    • AAC member Tana Beus, for a study on the decline of mountain goats in their historic range in the North Cascades.
    • AAC members Keith Bosak and Laura Caplins, for their proposal titled, “A Woman’s Place? Mountain Tourism, Information Technologies and Women’s Empowerment in the Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve, Garhwal Himalaya , India.”
    • Monica Bruckner, for her proposal to gain a better understanding of deglaciation on downstream systems and processes in the Yukon Territory.
    • Teresa Chuang, for research on the shift of species ranges as a result of climate change in the Sierra Nevada.
    • AAC member Adam French, for analyzing local livelihood needs and crafting strategies for community-managed protected areas in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.
    • Koren Nydick, for his study of alpine plants in the San Juan Mountains of southern Colorado and their response to climate change.
    • Clint Rogers, for his research related to the persistence of subsistence trade in the borderlands of Nepal-Tibet.

    For more information on these proposals, or to obtain information on AAC grants programs, contact Jason Manke at jmanke@americanalpineclub.org

    More Information...
  • NEW AAC WEBSITE TO LAUNCH
  • New Home Page

    This month will see the launch of the new AAC website, its first overhaul in five years.

    This will be the first in a series of changes that will lend the Club a new look, improve access to information, and help develop the community of climbers. This launch will give better access to events and news and will lead to discussion groups, galleries, podcasts and the full gamut of modern website technology. Now you'll be able to join, renew and donate online, as well as have a better window into the Club with more information and interactive content.

    Email us with comments, send in your galleries and have fun.

  • REVISIT VINSON ON 40TH ANNIVERSARY
  • Editor’s Note: Some versions of the April E-News contained the incorrect web address for this trip, so we are reprinting this notice.
    The 40th anniversary of the first ascent of Vinson Massif, the highest peak in Antarctica, is December 18, and Antarctic Logistics & Expeditions is organizing a special trip to celebrate. The 16,050-foot peak was pioneered by an American Alpine Club-sponsored team led by Nick Clinch. Antarctic Logistics (owner of Adventure Network International) has invited several veterans of that expedition to revisit the mountain, and is extending a discount of about 15 percent on its normal fee for an unguided Vinson expedition to all AAC members. Proposed dates for the AAC trip are December 16–29, 2006.

    More...
  • ROWELL AWARD SEEKS NOMINEES
  • The Rowell Legacy Committee is accepting nominationsfor the Rowell Award for the Art of Adventure, which will honor that adventurer whose artistic passion illuminates the wild places of the world, and whose accomplishments significantly benefit both the environment and the people who inhabit these lands and regions. Nominations will be accepted through June 30. The $15,000 annual cash award is presented in memory of famed adventurers, writers, and photographers Galen and Barbara Rowell, who died in a plane crash in 2002.

    More information about the Rowell Award
  • AAC LIBRARY: BUILT BY MEMBERS
  • The American Alpine Club’s Henry S. Hall Jr. Library celebrated its 90th birthday in May with an exhibit that features gifts from members. “Built by Members: Ninety Years of Collecting” highlights the discernment and generosity of past and present AAC bibliophiles. On display at the library in Golden, Colorado, are books from Henry Montagnier and J. Monroe Thorington, whose personal collections formed the core of the early AAC library. Also on view is a selection from the John Boyle Himalayan Library and material donated by Nick Clinch, Howard Palmer, Harrington Putnam, William Ladd, Henry Hall, and Margaret Prouty.

    Visit the AAC Online Library
  • NEW CASCADE SECTION CHAIR
  • Al Schumer, a resident of Redmond, Washington, and an AAC member, will take over for Peter Ackroyd as the new chair of the Cascade Section. Al has been a member of the Mountaineers for many years and looks forward to improving communications between the clubs and providing opportunities for section members to get together. The AAC is committed to reinvigorating the sections under the direction new President Jim Donini, and Al is a good person to lead that effort in the Cascade Section. If you would like to take a more active role in developing ideas and planning section activities, please contact Al at als@vtablet.com

    If you would like to take a more active role in developing ideas and planning section activities please contact Al at als@vtablet.com.

    The AAC owes many thanks to Peter Ackroyd for his dedication and service to the Cascade Section and International Conservation Committee over the years.

  • E-NEWS POLICIES
  • In order to protect the interests of our subscribers, we have established the following E-News policies. The AAC office in Golden is the only source of outgoing messages to subscribers; recipients cannot respond to or initiate messages to the list. The AAC will not sell member e-mail addresses to anyone for any purpose and will have no commercial advertising of any kind in E-News.
    Send comments, suggestions or news items to dougald5@comc ast.net

    If you know an AAC member who isn't receiving the E-News, it's probably because the AAC does not have his or her email address. New addresses or address changes should be sent to getinfo @americanalpineclub.org.

  • TRIP OF A LIFETIME
  • Banyan Productions and the Travel Channel are seeking deserving individuals to send on a life changing journey. They'd like to film selected expeditions for a new hour long series.

    If you or someone you know are interested in applying, please call the Trips of a Lifetime Hotline @ (215) 928-1027 or email dreamtrips@ba nyan.com for more information.

    Phone: (303) 384-0110