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Trip Reports : Canada
Alpine Apprenticeship In The Bugaboos

Aaron Jones, recipient of an AAC Mountain Fellowship for young climbers, describes his August 2009 trip to the Bugaboos in Canada.

I left Salt Lake City for Calgary, Alberta, on July 28. I had intended to go on this trip solo but was able to convince my best friend, Dave Turner, to come along at the last minute. This turned out to be crucial, given the amount of glacier travel required and the state of the crevasses on the Upper Vowell and Bugaboo glaciers.

After… [view report]

East Ridge Of Mt. Desire

Brianna Hartzell and three teammates used an AAC McNeill-Nott Award and a Mountain Fellowship grant to attempt a new route in British Columbia's Coast Mountains in July 2009. Here's a report on the successful trip from team member Matt Van Biene.

On July 17, with the support of the American Alpine Club and a McNeill-Nott Award, Brianna Hartzell, Eric Dalzell, Mike Pond, and I began our journey north to the Bella Coola Valley in British Columbia. After 17 hours of scenic driving, we finally descended into the valley. Craning our necks up and out… [view report]

Big Walls in Newfoundland

Mountain Fellowship winner Eli Simon reports on his 2008 expedition to virgin walls on the coats of Newfoundland.  Eli found great rock, terrible rock, and loads of fun.  Read on for the full report!        

On September 5th I awoke at five o’ clock in the morning, shivering in the v-berth of the small fishing vessel Royal Oak. Through the companionway I could see the outline of two men methodically loading bait onto the deck.  George and Ron Fudge (uncle and nephew) respectively; the Captain and First Mate of the boat who would act as are liaison officers through out our time in Newfoundland. These kind men had agreed to taxi myself and my climbing partner Peter Fasoldt to Cape… [view report]

Women at Work

Lorna Illingworth reports on her amzing trip to Canada in July, 2010.  This trip was supported by a Lyman Spitzer Award, an annual grant offered by the AAC.  Read on for the incredible tale from Lorna!

Emily Stifler, Madaleine Sorkin, and I flew by helicopter to the base of Mt. Proboscis, in the Cirque of the Unclimbables, NWT, Canada on July 27th, 2010.  We spent 25 days tenting at the base, and flew out on August 21st, after a twenty-inch… [view report]

FA of Run for Cover

Matt Childers offers this report on his trip to Canada in July, 2001.  His route, "Run for Cover," is an amazing new line in the Cirque of the Unclimbables.  This trip was supported by a Lyman Spitzer Award, an annual AAC grant.  Read the full story below!

On July 20th Chris Van Leuven and myself were dropped off in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Northwest Territories.  We had 11 days to spend in the Cirque before we were flown… [view report]

Bugaboo Solos by MFF Recipient


Aaron Martin, recipient of a Mountain Fellowship Fund Award in 2001, did some amazing solo climbs while waiting for his partner in the Bugaboos. See the short report below for the details of this impressive climbing!

I realized I was super anxious to climb in the Bugaboos when I arrived at the Applebee campground five days before my partner was scheduled to arrive.  I figured I would keep myself… [view report]

FA in the Cirque of the Unclimbables


A new route dubbed 'Riders on the Storm' was recently put up by Mountain Fellowship Fund recipients Johann Aberger and Evan Stevens. Their new route in the Cirque of the Unclimbables is, as they mention, destined to become a classic. Get your passport in order and get up to Canada! Read the whole report below.

After 5 days of preliminary travel from my home in Colorado, the Kluane Air bush plane circled… [view report]

MFF Recipient in the Bugaboos


Aaron Jones, Mountain Fellowship Fund recipient in 2003, wrote this great trip report about his climbing trip to the Bugaboos. He completed several impressive climbs, many of them solo. Read his report below.


I left Salt Lake City for Calgary, Alberta on July 28th after working for two weeks at the OR show. I intended to go on this trip solo but was able to convince my best friend, Dave Turner, to come along… [view report]

The Replicant
image 2 The Replicant (center) 1
image 2 Pitch 1

On our second try, Jess R and I tagged a dream of a route. I have been obsessing over it for over a decade. It was so amazing and I will be stoked on it for a long time to come. Conditions, weather, and stoke all came together this time for a great day in Banff. The approach went on forever. The avy danger was non-factor, thank god. It is steep and wanders up and over many features. It is nice to have a boot track, but it will blow over with the wind and you will wallow in some places up high. The 1st pitch was hollow, hooky, bouldery,… [view report]