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Trip Reports : Nepal
Fischer Grant Winner Cleans Up Ama Dablam

Allen Higginbotham, recipient of the 2011 Scott Fischer Memorial Conservation Fund Grant, offers this report of his trip to Nepal.  Allen hoped to clean up camps around Ama Dablam but hit a few speed bumps along the way.  Read on for his exciting tale!


Arriving in Katmandu for your first time I had an overwhelming feeling of being on the cusp of big adventure.  Smog blankets the city and hides the magical views of… [view report]

Slo-Am Makalu West Face Expedition 2008

Spitzer Award recipient Vince Anderson reports on his expedition to Makalu in the fall of 2008. 

Our expedition to Makalu occurred from September 12 through November 15, 2008. The expedition was plagued with difficulties from start to finish. We made one attempt to climb the west face, which ended no farther than the bergschrund below the start of the climbing at 6,300 meters. Steve was ill at the time. Steve also made a solo attempt to climb the west face and reached a higher bergschrund at 6,600 meters. Marko and I completed a new route on the… [view report]

Kathmandu Clubhouse Visit

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AAC Accountant Carol Kotchek recently returned from Nepal and provided us with this account of her travels in the Kathmandu area. Recently returned from your own adventure? Login and post your own trip report on americanalpineclub.org.

From mid April to mid May I had the opportunity to spend a month in Nepal.  Three weeks of my trip was spent trekking the Annapurna Circuit. Of course the scenery on the trek was amazing but the most memorable part of my journey was the four days and nights spent at the new AAC… [view report]

Ama Dablam Clean Up

Arriving in Katmandu for your first time I had an overwhelming feeling of being on the cusp of big adventure. Smog blankets the city and hides the magical views of the great range that I had spent the last 6 months dreaming of. Tyler Botzon and I hoped our stay in the smog of the ancient city would be kept to a short, two-night maximum. Seven days later, we found ourselves in the Katmandu airport—with what turned out to be slightly-counterfeit plane tickets—and wham, our trip to the Himalayas was underway. 

The plane touched down in Lukla and we were in the Himalayas. Everest still wasn’t visible and it would be a few days before Ama Dablam. Even from… [view report]

At Least I Know How To Suffer—Nepal


The American Alpine Club Awarded Hayden Kennedy a Mountain Fellowship Grant last fall. This is his account of his trip to Nepal. Thanks Hayden!

A lot of people ask me why I go alpine climbing. All you do is suffer, get scared, get cold, get sick, and most of the time not climb anything. Alpine climbing is a different beast and sometimes I don't even know why I go alpine climbing. My trip to Nepal was eye opening to say the least and I learned more on this trip than any other trip. The Himalayas are a very humbling place and the mountains are to be respected. To be able to climb on these amazing peaks is truly a… [view report]

Tough Conditions on Makalu

Vince Anderson encountered brutal conditions during his 2008 expedition to Makalu, but was still able to accomplish some impressive feats.  Read on for the full story.  This trip was partially funded by a Lyman Spitzer Award, an annual grant given by the AAC.

Our expedition to Makalu occurred from September 12th through November 15th, 2008. The expedition was plagued with difficulties from start to finish. We made one attempt to climb the West Face which ended no further than the bergshrund below the start… [view report]

First Ascent of Jobo Rinjang, Nepal

Lyman Spitzer Award winner Joe Puryear reports on his 2009 trip to Nepal.  Click the PDF link below to read the full story and see the amazing pictures.  This route was hugely important, and was made possible by the AAC's grant program.

[view report]
New Lines in Nepal

AAC Member and McNeill-Nott Award winner Mike Ybarra reports on his trip to Nepal in April, 2010.  He and his team had an exciting expedition--read on for the full story!

In April 2010, Seth Timpano, Ben Jones and myself trekked into the Annapurna Sanctuary to attempt a new line on Singu Chuli (formerly known as Fluted Peak), aided by a McNeill-Nott Award. A perfect ice pyramid, Singu (6,501 meters) is an outlier of Annapurna 1, relatively a mere bump on the rim of the imposing sanctuary wall—yet its steep South Face is one of the most striking sights in the cirque.

None of us had ever been to the Himalaya before, so… [view report]

Nuptse Dreams

Freddie Wilksinson offers a compelling tale of a wild trip to Nuptse in the Himalaya. This expedition was partially supported by a Lyman Spitzer Award, a grant offered annually by the AAC.  We've posted Freddie's full Nuptse report on Inclined, the AAC Blog, so surf on over to read the story and see the stunning photos.  

[view report]
Steve House on Nuptse

Steve House reports on his trip to Nuptse.  The expedition had many ups and downs, but was largely positive.  Steve was partially supported by a Lyman Spitzer Award, an annual grant offered by the AAC.  Read on for the full story!


The Nuptse International South Face Expeditions (aka the Slo/Can/Am—emphasis on Slo)  was concluded at the end of May.  Team members were Marko… [view report]

New Conservation Research in the Himalaya


Alton Byers, Director of Science and Research at The Mountain Institute, a nonprofit based in West Virginia, has provided the AAC with a summary of a recent research trip the Everest region of the Himalayas, Nepal. The report, titled "Protecting and Restoring the World's Alpine Ecosystems through NGS Explorer Collaboration and Exchange: The Role of Awareness Building, Improved Conservation Practices, and High Altitude Energy Development", sheds light on energy use at high altitude and looks toward more sustainable practices. Byers notes that the AAC has been involved in similar projects. Every year, AAC grants provide funding for a multitude of research projects, and research undertaken by these teams often falls into this vein of conservation practices… [view report]

Himalayan Stove Project – Interim Nepal Trip Report – May 2012

Himalayan Stove Project – Interim Nepal Trip Report – May 2012

P1010142.pngWe are in the middle of an exciting, rewarding, three-month trip to Nepal, distributing our first 1,500 clean, efficient cookstoves.

We just returned (May 3, 2012) from two wonderful weeks of brilliant weather in the Everest region. Our first stove was delivered to the Rinpoche of Tengboche Monastery, and 150 more stoves are being delivered to monks, nuns, individuals and families in that region, at up to 4,000 meters elevation.

We are changing people’s lives, one clean cookstove at a time, and it is unbelievably rewarding, humbling and gratifying – the impact in their homes is immediate and dramatic, and the smiles of the… [view report]

Pisang and Chulu West Peaks 2012
image 2 leaving Chulu West high camp on summit day
image 2 Jon Miller climbing Pisang peak

AAC members Jon Miller, Gavin Anstey, Ben Clark and I attempted to climb and ski Pisang peak and Chulu west peak in the Annapurna range of the Himalayas in late April/early May of 2012. 

We had three weeks to climb both peaks and were unable to summit either one because of a combination of conditions and our groups risk acceptance levels.  Due to the tight timeline we didnt have extra days to mount second attempts though we did get some great turns in on both peaks and are pretty sure we were the first to descend on skis on both peaks!  We were about 1,000 feet from the summit on both peaks when we turned around.  More info on the trip is at [view report]