DEVILS LAKE CRAGGIN' CLASSIC

October 13-15, 2017

Join the American Alpine Club and CAMP USA in Baraboo, WI this October 13th to 15th for the third annual Midwest climbing extravaganza, the Devil's Lake Craggin’ Classic!

This 3-day, grassroots climbing festival is a true celebration of all things climbing, featuring speakers, clinics, comps, local and national gear reps, slideshows, and stewardship projects that define our sport and our community.

The 2017 Craggin’ Classic features a full line-up of climbing clinics taught by pro athletes and Devil’s Lake Climbing Guides; a Bouldering Competition sponsored by the Wisconsin Climbers Association and dozens of industry brands; a Trad Climbing Competition, sponsored by Wisconsin Climbers Association and Black Diamond; a Climber Party featuring food by Madison’s Underground Food Collective and beer from Sixpoint Brewery. Additionally, you’ll enjoy silent auctions with incredible deals on top-end gear and, on Sunday, a free volunteer breakfast followed by a variety of local crag stewardship projects. We'll be working with the Ice Age Trail Alliance to shore up and re-route the Balanced Rock Trail, along with a number of other projects to improve and enhance our beloved Devil’s Lake State Park.


REGISTRATION:

GENERAL WEEKEND PASS: $55
Includes: Event entrance Friday, Saturday, and Sunday including access to all entertainment (some limited seating may apply); AAC trucker hat and event cup; four beer tickets for those 21+; camping Friday and Saturday night at Devil's Lake State Park; and a local breakfast and coffee on Saturday and Sunday morning. Event ticket price does not include clinics, comps, admission into Devil's Lake State Park, or additional food. See below for more details.

CLINIC REGISTRATION: $85
Up your game with an array of climbing clinics taught by professional climbing athletes and local instructors from Devil's Lake Climbing Guides. All clinics run Saturday, October 13th from 9:00am to 4:00pm. See below for clinic descriptions and details.

BOULDERING & TRAD CLIMBING COMPETITIONS: $35
Throw your hat in the ring and compete against your peers for glory! Choose either the Bouldering or Trad comp, then strategize your plan to maximize efficiency while racking up points in your respective discipline. A bevy of great prizes await the winners!

*Current AAC members will receive a 10% discount upon registration checkout.


EVENT SCHEDULE:

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 13th

  • 4:00 PM: Registration Begins at Northern Lights Campground
    Check in for the weekend, set up camp and meet old friends and new while you check out the Vendor Village and enjoy a beverage.

  • 5:30 PM: Potluck/Cookout Dinner
    Bring your favorite dish to share with the rest of the tribe. And no, Doritos are not a meal! Last year’s potluck was 5-star quality, with amazing dishes of high and low-brow fare. Grills will be available to cook burgers, brats and veggie versions.

  • 6:00 PM: Friday Evening Silent Auction Begins
    Check out the great offerings from national and local brands on gear, gym passes and other climbing-related swag. Auction closes at 9:00 PM.

  • 7:30 PM: Slideshow Presentation by Alex Johnson
    Wisconsin native Alex Johnson originally made a name for herself in the competition scene as a two-time Bouldering World Cup gold medalist. She has since focused on pushing her limits in outdoor climbing, with various First Female Ascents (FFA) of a variety of V12’s. Now residing in Las Vegas, AJ will return home to teach a bouldering clinic and share stories with us from her journey so far.

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 14th

  • 7:00 AM: Volunteer Breakfast presented by the Chicago Mountaineering Club
    Rise and shine to prepare for a big day! Roll out of bed and head to the Vendor Village, where CMC volunteers will head up a camp breakfast. Coffee from our friends at Starbucks in Monona, WI.

  • 7:00 AM: Sunrise Yoga with Alisyn Vermey and Ashlee Arendt
    Get your butt out of bed and join Alisyn Vermey and Ashlee Arendt for a 45-minute session to warm up and get ready for an awesome day. There will be a limited number of mats available; please bring yours if you have one!

  • 8:00 AM to 8:45 AM: Bouldering & Trad Comp Check-In
    Check in at the Vendor Village to receive competition rules and procedures and check out all the great prizes you’ll be competing for!

  • 8:30 AM: Clinic Check-In
    Meet your clinic instructors and fellow students in the Vendor Village. Get directions and the plan for the day, then rally to your clinic’s rendezvous point at Devil’s Lake.

  • 9:00 AM: Climbing Clinics Begin hosted by Devil's Lake Climbing Guides
    Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Sign up for a climbing clinic taught by the professional climbing athletes and local climbing guides and up your game. Everyone has something to learn. Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.

    Please check in, packed and ready to roll, at the Clinic Tent at Northern Lights Campground at 8:30am. Instructors will give directions to clinic locales and venture forth from there. See below for clinic descriptions and details.

  • 9:00 AM: Bouldering Competition Begins
    Join the Wisconsin Climbers Association and a who’s who of industry brands for the second bouldering comp in the WCA annual series. Individuals will compete for an awesome array of prizes, sending as many problems as possible within the time limit. Official problem list and rules for the comp will be available on September 5th.

  • 9:00 AM: 2nd Annual “Erol Altay Classic” Trad Climbing Competition
    Join the Wisconsin Climbers Association and Black Diamond for the FIRST and ONLY trad climbing comp in the nation (or at least the only trad comp we’ve ever heard of)! This comp is named in honor of late local climber and Chicago native, Erol Altay, who graced the cliffs and climbing community here with a joyful, ambitious presence for decades. Pairs will compete for an awesome array of prizes from Black Diamond, climbing as many routes as possible from Balanced Rock to D’Arcy’s Buttress. Official rules and details will be available September 5th.

  • 9:30 AM: Morning Yoga with Alisyn Vermey and Ashlee Arendt
    Those enjoying a more casual day can join Alisyn Vermey and Ashlee Arendt for a 60-minute yoga session at a more reasonable hour.

  • 9:30 AM: Drop-In Top-Rope Climbing with the CMC
    Join volunteers from the Chicago Mountaineering Club for fun, friendly top-rope climbing. Meet at Northern Lights Campground at 9:30 AM. Climbing location TBD, but they will try to let their crag destination be know so others can join.

  • 5:00 PM: Climber Party with Sixpoint Brewery and Underground Food Collective
    Join the tribe and get ready to let your hair down with free beer from Sixpoint Brewery and a la carte food from Underground Food Collective (food included in ticket). The evening will feature free swag and gear handouts; free beer (21+); a massive silent auction featuring amazing deals on top end gear; vendor village and games; local food; and more!

  • 7:00 PM: Slideshow Presentation by Black Diamond athlete, Carlo Traversi
    Ten time US National Team member and former US Sport Climbing National Champion Carlo Traversi boasts an impressive climbing resume in both the competitive and outdoor climbing realms. With first ascents of both V15 and 5.14, Carlo is now bringing his expertise to the purple quartzite of Devils Lake to teach a traditional climbing clinic and share stories from life on the sharp end.

  • 9:30 PM: Bonfires & Brewskis
    After the film, gather around a fire to share stories and celebrate with friends late into the night. Hang with our vendors! Win gear at our raffles and Silent Auctions! Drink beers! Howl at the moon! Act weird and stalk through the night! Who cares?! This annual midwest Climber Celebration Party is not to be missed!

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 15th

  • 7:30 AM: Sunrise Yoga with Erin Ayla
    Erin Ayla is a talented boulderer and yogi who incorporates techniques of balance, steady breathe, and focus into both sports. Erin will offer a 60-minute session for everyone who wants to join. There will be a limited number of mats available; please bring yours if you have one!

  • 8:30am Volunteer Breakfast
    Free breakfast for stewardship project volunteers cooked up by staff at Apex Adventure Alliance. Enjoy a delicious breakfast and coffee from Starbucks of Monona, WI, then sign up for a service project to give back to the park we love so much.

  • 9:00am Stewardship Projects Throughout the Park
    With your belly full, sign up for a Stewardship Project and do your part in giving back. Specific projects remain TBD, but will involve rehabilitating, enhancing and/or preventing damage to the Park. Ice Age Trail Alliance will facilitate a few teams helping with a trail re-reroute of the Balanced Rock Trail, which will involve some rock work building stairs. Get involved and take ownership of the great climbing and heavily-visited trails and cliff sides at Devil’s Lake. Roll up your sleeves and get involved helping to keep our climbing areas strong and vibrant! Meet at the South Shore picnic area, directly after breakfast.


CLINIC OFFERINGS:

Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Take your climbing to a new level by signing up for a climbing clinic taught by professional climbers and local guides from Devil's Lake Climbing Guides! Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.

Clinics for the Devil's Lake Craggin’ Classic will be held on Saturday, October 13th from 9:00am to 4:00pm, weather permitting. Please check in, packed and ready to roll, at the Clinic Tent at Northern Lights Campground at 8:30am. Instructors will give directions to clinic locales and venture forth from there.

Personal Equipment Needed: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, chalk, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate clothing for climbing.

  • HUGE DAYS WITH A LIGHT RACK with Scott Bennett, presented by CAMP USA
    There are few things more fascinating or fulfilling than proficiently negotiating technical terrain on huge rock routes. Here, proficiency is the key … when everything we know and all the training we do comes together to create a very particular kind of accomplishment. This clinic is designed to explore the strategies and tactics involved in trying to improve our efficiency on big multi-pitch rock routes so we can ultimately move faster and climb higher. We will be studying the skills, the gear, and our objectives in order to distill this vast subject matter down to a digestible set of strategies and tactics that we can exercise in our regular climbing and training routines. The CAMP athletes teaching these clinics are absolute experts on the subject with bold first ascents around the world and numerous speed records across the United States from the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon to the Nose on El Capitan. See the clinic curriculum for more details
     
  • THE ART OF THE PROJECT with Ben Rueck, presented by CAMP USA
    The Art of the Project is an intensive clinic designed to help climbers break into new levels of difficulty within a single pitch environment. To develop the curriculum, we worked with CAMP athlete Ben Rueck who credits his growth as a climber to learning and understanding the art of project. The curriculum is designed to put a structure behind projecting that can be used to dissect and accomplish our objectives. The clinic covers the emotional, mental, and physical parts of the process from the perspective of athletes who have had to use these very tools to push their climbing to new levels.

    Here is a short introduction from the author and instructor:
    "Two years and over 50 falls had gone into trying to send Gutless Wonder (5.14b), my first climb at that grade.  I can only estimate the falls because after thirty of them, I’d just quit counting.  I wanted to walk away from the 50 degree lime stone wall and sweep the idea of red-pointing this Colorado test piece under the rug.  But I couldn’t and I wouldn’t.  There was an indescribable pull that forced me to grow as a climber and as a person –– as well as plant the seed for this clinic.  It all started with a simple shift in my mental framework, ‘It is not so much the Why, but the How that matters.’

    Easy phrase to speak aloud, but it took ten years for me to grasp and understand …

    I needed to stop asking why I could not climb the sequence and I needed to start asking how I could climb the sequence. Suddenly a map opened before me and I could understand the things that needed to happen if I was going to succeed. That map is what I have tried to put structure behind for clinic attendees."

  • OUTDOOR BOULDERING with Alex Johnson
    Bouldering is exploding at Devils Lake, with more recorded problems than ever, there are pebbles galore for new and experienced climbers alike. We are very excited to welcome professional climber, Alex Johnson, to lead this clinic designed to help you up your game on the bullet hard Baraboo Quartzite. This clinic will cover pad placement, spotting, movement, and topping out on the beautiful boulders surrounding Devils Lake.  This clinic is a great way to jump into the bouldering revolution taking place at the park or to talk strategy and work on ways to up your projecting and mental game while wrestling those pebbles.

    • PREREQUISITES: All experience levels welcome!

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including rock climbing shoes, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing. A chalk bag and/or a crash pad are not required, but please bring them if you own them!

  • WOMEN’S BOULDERING with Erin Ayla
    Join Erin Ayla and fellow ladies for a day of bouldering. This clinic will cover the basics through the more complex aspects of outdoor bouldering-- pad placement, spotting, movement, and finishing with the perfect top out. Erin will also take you through the finer points of bouldering at Devils Lake (and beyond) by discussing projecting and how to overcome the mental challenges of bouldering outside. There are no prerequisites for this clinic, just bring your psych to pull down in an empowering environment.

    • About Erin: A former competitive gymnast, Erin Ayla has amassed an impressive resume of FAs and FFAs across the country and at home. She considers her FFAs some of her proudest accomplishments and is passionate about inspiring other women to push themselves in the bouldering arena. Erin Ayla has thrown herself into a lifestyle of traveling and climbing with sponsorships from Evolv, Friction Labs, Asana, and Mike's Mix. She has lately returned to her Wisconsin roots to answer the siren call of the boulders of Devil's Lake.

    • PREREQUISITES: Must identify as female; all experience levels welcome!

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including rock climbing shoes, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing. A chalk bag and/or a crash pad are not required, but please bring them if you own them!

  • INTRO TO TRADITIONAL ANCHORS (FOR BEGINNERS)
    Learning to set a variety of anchors is a fundamental skill for all climbers and opens the door for greater self-sufficiency when climbing outside. If you can sling a tree with the best of them, but those shiny metal bits intimidate you, join DLCG guides for an anchors course tailored to beginner and intermediate anchor setters alike. We’ll dive in to anchor setting and help you bring your anchors up to modern standards. Learn the fundamental principles and science behind anchors, ways to speed up your sets, and receive instruction and tips on your gear placements.  You’ll have opportunity to set a number of anchors and get ample instructor feedback.

    • PREREQUISITES: None.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration,and appropriate climbing clothing. Please bring a rack of hardware/protection if you have one, as instructors will have a limited amount of gear to share.

  • BUILDING BETTER, BOMBPROOF ANCHORS (FOR CLIMBERS WITH SOME EXPERIENCE)
    Whether you’re a top-rope hero, a regular trad leader, or an alpine specialist, chances are your anchor building skills could improve. Join DLCG instructors for an anchors course tailored to experienced climbers interested in bringing their anchors up to modern guiding standards. Learn why static line trumps webbing, how clove hitches can speed up your sets, and get a second opinion on your gear placements. You’ll have opportunity to set a number of anchors and get ample instructor feedback.

    • PREREQUISITES: Participants should have some experience placing gear and building anchors.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration,and appropriate climbing clothing. Please bring a rack of hardware/protection if you have one, as instructors will have a limited amount of gear to share.

  • INTRO TO TRAD CLIMBING with Carlo Traversi, presented by Black Diamond
    Interested in taking on the sharp end at Devil's Lake? A WIDE world of climbing awaits those who learn how to trad climb, and this is a great place to start the journey. This clinic will introduce the gear, strategy, and process of trad climbing. Students will have the opportunity to lead on mock-belay and receive instructor feedback on placements and technique. And who better to learn from than one of the strongest climbers living today, Carlo Traversi? He is a true master of the craft.

    • About Carlo: Hailing from Santa Rosa, California, Carlo Traversi began rock climbing at the age of 14. The local gym, Vertex Climbing Center, became his second home in a matter of months and the supportive community of local climbers inspired him to perfect his abilities both on plastic and rock. Frequent trips to Bishop, Yosemite, and Lake Tahoe during his teenage years also played a huge role in sculpting the climber that he is today. Within the last five years, he has managed continued progress a climber, culminating with a spring 2011 ascent of The Game V15, considered to be one of the hardest boulder problems in the world. Today, Carlo spends as much time possible traveling and experiencing the world, climbing the hardest boulders, producing media, and teaching clinics for Professional Climbers International. Learn more about Carlo here.
    • PREREQUISITES: Top rope belay experience required, lead belay experience preferable.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing. Please bring a rack of hardware/protection if you have one, as instructors will have a limited amount of gear to share.

  • WOMEN’S INTRO TO TRAD LEADING with Emilie Drinkwater, presented by Sterling Ropes
    Join fellow ladies for an introduction to traditional climbing tailored to an all female audience. Learn how prepare your equipment, strategize your route plan, protect early falls, avoid rope drag and all the other details that make the difference on the sharp end.

    • PREREQUISITES: Must identify as female

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing. Please bring a rack of hardware/protection if you have one, as instructors will have a limited amount of gear to share.

  • CLIMBING MOVEMENT
    Feeling flat-footed at the gym or crag? Stuck at a plateau you’d like to leave behind? Join DLCG guide and climbing coach, Kat Floyd, for a technique-focused climbing day where you’ll ratchet up your movement skills. We will focus on footwork, positioning your center of gravity, body tension, and the difference between static and dynamic movement.

    • PREREQUISITES: None.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, chalk, belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, snacks/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing.

  • MULTI-PITCH PROBLEM SOLVING with Calvin Laatsch
    Pacific Northwest climber and guest DLCG guide, Calvin Laatsch, will teach skills and concepts for safely navigating challenging situations in multi-pitch and alpine rock terrain. An emphasis on critical thinking and problem solving helps develop the tools to make the most of what materials are on hand. Become more competent in the mountains by carrying less equipment but doing more with it, moving more efficiently, and having skills that can address unexpected challenges. The day will include anchor building practice, multi-pitch climbing, discussing “best practices” and ascending/descending ropes.

    • EXPECT TO LEARN: Review basic knots and hitches; Introduction to traditional anchors for leaders; Practical application of anchor and rope management; Discussion of falling, fall factors and how they apply to the leader; Discussion of multi-pitch strategies; Review route finding and practice reading route topos; Discussion of time management strategies; Introduction to self rescue techniques; Improvising anchors for escaping a climb.

    • PREREQUISITES: Participants should have a basic understanding of traditional climbing tools (cams, passive protection, anchor building, knots/hitches)

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, closed-toed hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate climbing clothing. Please bring a rack of hardware/protection if you have one, as instructors will have a limited amount of gear to share.

  • KNOWING THE ROPES, presented by the American Alpine Club
    AAC Education has been taking controversial climbing topics head on for the last 6 years. The most controversial topics in climbing tend to generate fervor because misinformation, dogma, and rigid problem-solving often characterize what we think we know about some of the most foundational skills in American climbing. These knowledge gaps often lead to accidents, but it’s not always the novice climber that gets hurt. Intermediate and advanced climbers also fall victim to knowledge gaps.

    The Know the Ropes sampler is a clinic for any climber that wants to get off the Mountain Project forum and have a real hands-on myth-busting, set-the-record-straight, interactive educational session on the following topics: Belaying in single pitch and multipitch; Rappelling; Cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting; Anchor building.

    • PREREQUISITES: This clinic is appropriate for any climber at any phase in their climbing.  If participants have prior experience with the clinic topics, the clinic can be more hands-on.  If not, the clinic still has informational value for those that might not yet be ready to practice in 5th class terrain.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, any anchor building equipment). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).

  • IMPROVISED SELF-RESCUE, presented by the American Alpine Club
    Self-Rescue curricula rarely focus on the scenarios that actually routinely happen. Our clinic will spend less time focusing on unlikely scenarios like incapacitated climbers or leader-rescue and more time focusing on the awkward scenarios that every climber eventually experiences: Rope gets stuck when you try to pull it; Rope Drag is so severe the leader can’t move; I dropped my belay device; My rope doesn’t make it to the next rap station.

    • PREREQUISITES: This clinic has value for any climber at any phase in their climbing.  If participants to do not have traditional lead climbing experience or multi pitch climbing experience, the hands-on portions of the clinics will likely be limited to ground school.

    • EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Specific rescue tools (2 5mm nylon prussic loops or Sterling Hollowblocks, 2 48" slings, 2 7mm nylon cordellette, a mechanical assisted braking device, a tube style belay device with plaquette function like an ATC Guide or Reverso, 4 extra HMS style locking carabiners). Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, lead climbing and anchor building tools). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools, etc. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).


ADDITIONAL DETAILS:

CAMPING:
Onsite camping is included with your General Weekend Pass to the Devil's Lake Craggin’ Classic. Camping is located at Northern Lights Campground, Devil’s Lake State Park, Baraboo, WI.


Questions ?
If you have any questions regarding the Devil's Lake Craggin' Classic, please contact Event Coordinator Nick Wilkes at [email protected]


The 2017 Devil's Lake Craggin' Classic is presented by:


Banner photo: AAC member Jay Knower