Mountain Dont's

In 1925 Albert H. MacCarthy had just led a successful first ascent of Mount Logan in Canada, composed of climbers from Canada, Britain and the United States. MacCarthy, an American and member of the American Alpine Club, wrote a number of reports and summaries of the expedition, including this list of Mountain “Dont’s.”

Much of his advice is still relevant today, 94 years later. We’ve highlighted a few of our favorites with photos from the 1925 Mount Logan Expedition.

Check out the original list at the bottom of the post. What “Dont’s” would you add?

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Don’t throw stones - someone may retaliate.

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Don’t depreciate the quality of your climb and accomplishment - others will do it for you

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Don’t lose your temper - no one else wants it, and the fault is probably your own.

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Don’t stop at the top of a slope to view the scenery and leave others below to wait for you - move far enough so all can come up, otherwise they ought to pull you down.

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Don’t throw your ice axe, always place it. If you must hit someone use your fist.

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Don’t wait until you are called in the morning to hunt your equipment; some of it may want to sleep late.

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Don’t be a coward and refuse to ask for help when you feel you need it; others may know it anyway

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Don’t jerk the rope. If it is caught gently swing it clear or pick it up - it will remember a kindness

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Don’t burden others of the party with your unnecessary articles of equipment and clothing, if you can’t carry what you need you are not fit for the climb.

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Don’t expect to be pulled along. The one behind you may get the same notion.

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Don’t come to camp expecting others to equip you; they may have need for their own gear.

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Don’t think that conversation is a polite necessity in the mountains; they speak eloquently themselves.

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Don’t pull a second time after checking another’s slip - the first pull will not make him vindictive.

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Don’t insist upon a rest in a line of avalanche or rock fall; for you might “rest in peace.”

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Don’t get out of your place in the party, you may be butting in.

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Don’t fail, whatever the results of this season, to come back to the mountains for a touch of new life and vigor next season.

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