MOAB CRAGGIN' CLASSIC
October 26-28, 2018
The Moab Craggin’ Classic, powered by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment, is THE grassroots desert climbers fest. This October 26th - 28th, we'll be uniting climbers around the campfire at a world renowned destination to celebrate all things climbing. From learning new skills and techniques, to sharing stories, sharing the rope and inspiring one another; from drinking beers and howling at the moon, to giving back and caring for our local crags, this event is the real deal!
The Moab Craggin' Classic features climbing clinics taught by professional athletes and world class local climbing guides, parties with beer from Moab’s one and only brewery, awesome costume contest, films, slideshows, presentations, music, local food, raffles, silent auctions, a vendor village, gear demos, local crag stewardship projects, and high-fives a'plenty.
This is the desert at its best, and we know you’ll be here already, so please join us for the return of our American Alpine Club Moab Craggin’ Classic!
**Please check back regularly for updates. Registration details are subject to change until registration opens on August 28th.
*Current AAC members will receive a 10% discount upon registration checkout.
GENERAL WEEKEND PASS: $45
Includes: AAC trucker hat & Klean Kanteen pint glass, Saturday breakfast and dinner, Friday night slideshows, gear demos, costume contest and dance party, vendor village, games, Sunday crag service project, and much more! (Clinics NOT included)
CLINIC REGISTRATION: $70
Up your game with an array of climbing clinics taught by pro climbers and guides. All clinics run Saturday, October 27th from 8:00am-4:00pm. Please show up 15-20 minutes early. See below for details.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26th
- 4:00 PM - 7:00 PM: Check In is Open
Our weekend headquarters and vendor village will be located at the Kane Creek Campground (1005 Kane Creek Blvd, Moab, UT 84532), on the banks of the mighty Colorado River. Meet us here early to register and check in for the weekend.
- 8:00 PM: Weekend Kickoff Raffles and slideshow by local climbing legend and author; Steve “Crusher” Bartlett plus BEER
Local author and climbing aficionado, Crusher Bartlett gives a slide show of decades of climbing in the area. Crusher will again re-define the standard and history of the region. Some other local legends are also known to make guest appearances… Before the show be sure to peruse the vendor village where our rad sponsors will be set up with games and giveaways.
The purchase of raffle tickets helps to fund the Live Your Dream grant program, sending climbers like you all over the world! Buy tickets and win cool stuff!! The raffle will happen before and after the slideshow.
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27th
- 7:00 AM - 8:00 AM: Breakfast at the Campground
- 7:30 AM: Gear Demos Begin
Your weekend pass includes access to gear demos (additional collateral required). Pick up the newest, greatest gear and use it at the crag Saturday during your clinic or on your own. Demos are arranged with the providers at the Kane Creek Vendor Village.
- 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM: Climbing Clinics with the Pros, hosted by Moab Desert Adventures, Moab Cliffs and Canyons, Desert Highlights, and Clapper Adventures
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing, so take your climbing to a new level by signing up for a climbing clinic taught by professional climbers and local guides! Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected. Learn the skills you need to climb more comfortably and efficiently in the desert and beyond. Clinics will include topics such as clean aid climbing tactics, off-width climbing, splitter crack technique, esoteric bouldering at Big Bend, self-rescue skills, crag etiquette, fast and light systems, multi-pitch efficiency and management, mental techniques for committed climbing, and more!
- 4:30 PM: Climber Celebration and Costume Party on the River with the Moab Brewery
Dirtbag Climber Throwdown Extravaganza Party. Gather with the tribe and howl at the moon! Prizes awarded for best costume, and outfits are welcome/encouraged at the crag before. Enjoy our beer garden with local brews, music, food, vendor village, silent Auction and raffle, climbing games, and general shenanigans at the vendor village area! Light the fires. Dress up. Drink beers. Act weird.
- 5:30 PM: Dinner at the Campground
Feast on the post climbing spread put on by one of our favorite local eateries. Grub is included with the weekend pass.
- 7:00 PM: Adventure Film Festival
Hand-picked films by a selection committee. Gritty, creative, visceral, inspiring, poignant films. Explore everything from extreme sport to activism through adventure while taking it all in under the stars.
- 8:30 PM: Nighttime Shenanigans
Need we say more?! The party continues including the Halloween Costume Contest, bonfire, slackline rodeo, and plenty of booty shakin’! Strut your stuff to warm up for the holiday!
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28th
- 8:00 AM - 8:30 AM: Love Muffin’ Breakfast at Kane Creek
Get fed some love for those who have registered to help with this years Crag Service Project!
- 9:00 AM: Crag Stewardship Project
We are psyched to be partnering with Moab Trail Mix again for our local Craggin Classic stewardship project. The Abraxis trail will be getting a face lift with improved access to parking and toilets!
*First 20 people to register online for the stewardship project AND show up will receive a special thank you gift from our friends at Klean Kanteen.
- 2:00 PM: Casual Social Craggin’ Meet up
After the stewardship project is wrapped up you’re invited to stick around with your new friends and new skills to enjoy the crag you just gave love to. Bring your own gear and explore some of the best splitters and accessible tower Moab has to offer. *This is an unguided meetup experience not facilitated by the AAC or it’s partners* enjoy the climbing!
Clinics for the Moab Craggin’ Classic will be held on Saturday, October 28th from 8:00am to 4:00pm, weather permitting. Clinics will begin promptly at 8:00. Please meet at Kane Creek Campground; grand central for the weekend’s events. Arrive 15 minutes early, prepared to learn from the best. All clinics are $70; AAC members receive 10% off at registration.
Clinic offerings will include local-specific topics, as well as universally applicable climbing techniques. All clinics will be conducted with pro athletes and local professional guides. All guides taking part are local Moab folks; desert rats with hard and true knowledge of our diverse canyon lands terrain, and the sensitivities required to climb in the desert safely, respectfully, and at full throttle! Space is limited for all clinics and have a minimum participant number. We’ll do the best to accommodate everyone’s first choice but some rearranging may be necessary.
Equipment Needed: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate clothing for climbing.
- HUGE DAYS WITH A LIGHT RACK with Rob Pizem, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
There are few things more fascinating or fulfilling than proficiently negotiating technical terrain on huge rock routes. Here, proficiency is the key … when everything we know and all the training we do comes together to create a very particular kind of accomplishment. This clinic is designed to explore the strategies and tactics involved in trying to improve our efficiency on big multi-pitch rock routes so we can ultimately move faster and climb higher. We will be studying the skills, the gear, and our objectives in order to distill this vast subject matter down to a digestible set of strategies and tactics that we can exercise in our regular climbing and training routines. The CAMP athletes teaching these clinics are absolute experts on the subject with bold first ascents around the world and numerous speed records across the United States from the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon to the Nose on El Capitan. See the clinic curriculum for more details.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate / Advanced
- ART OF THE PROJECT with Ben Rueck, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
The Art of the Project is a clinic for all levels of rock climbers designed to help them pursue harder routes. To develop the curriculum, we worked with CAMP athlete Dan Mirsky who credits his growth as a climber to learning and understanding the art of project. The curriculum is designed to put a structure behind projecting that can be used to dissect and accomplish our objectives. The clinic covers the physical and mental parts of the process from the perspective of athletes who have had to use these very tools to push their climbing to new levels.
SKILL LEVEL: All skill levels
A note from Ben: “I needed to stop asking why I could not climb the sequence and I needed to start asking how I could climb the sequence. Suddenly a map opened before me and I could understand the things that needed to happen if I was going to succeed. That map is what I have tried to put structure behind for clinic attendees.”
- LIGHT & FAST ALPINISM with Scott Bennett, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
Whether you are an experienced alpinist or beginning mountaineer, the benefits of the light & fast approach are indisputable. Being lighter means using less energy with every step we take and every move we make. It is also just downright more comfortable when we are in motion. Being fast equates directly to safety. It means we are navigating hazardous terrain more quickly and tagging the summit in time to descend safely. It is also the way we progress towards bigger objectives over time. This clinic covers the most important aspects of the light & fast approach with a short classroom session followed by an intensive field session where we work on the implementation of the skills, strategies and tactics that are most useful for you.
- KNOW THE ROPES, presented by The American Alpine Club
AAC Education has been taking controversial climbing topics head on for the last 6 years. The most controversial topics in climbing tend to generate fervor because misinformation, dogma, and rigid problem-solving often characterize what we think we know about some of the most foundational skills in American climbing. These knowledge gaps often lead to accidents, but it’s not always the novice climber that gets hurt. Intermediate and advanced climbers also fall victim to knowledge gaps.
The Know the Ropes sampler is a clinic for any climber that wants to get off the Mountain Project forum and have a real hands-on myth-busting, set-the-record-straight, interactive educational session on the following topics: Belaying in single pitch and multipitch; Rappelling; Cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting; Anchor building.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic is appropriate for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants have prior experience with the clinic topics, the clinic can be more hands-on. If not, the clinic still has informational value for those that might not yet be ready to practice in 5th class terrain.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, any anchor building equipment). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
- IMPROVISED SELF-RESCUE, presented by The American Alpine Club
Self-Rescue curricula rarely focus on the scenarios that actually routinely happen. Our clinic will spend less time focusing on unlikely scenarios like incapacitated climbers or leader-rescue and more time focusing on the awkward scenarios that every climber eventually experiences: Rope gets stuck when you try to pull it; Rope Drag is so severe the leader can’t move; I dropped my belay device; My rope doesn’t make it to the next rap station.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic has value for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants to do not have traditional lead climbing experience or multi pitch climbing experience, the hands-on portions of the clinics will likely be limited to ground school.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Specific rescue tools (2 5mm nylon prussic loops or Sterling Hollowblocks, 2 48" slings, 2 7mm nylon cordellette, a mechanical assisted braking device, a tube style belay device with plaquette function like an ATC Guide or Reverso, 4 extra HMS style locking carabiners). Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, lead climbing and anchor building tools). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools, etc. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
- SPLITTER CRACK CLIMBING with Jay Smith
Jay Smith has unimaginable lists of first ascents all over the world, and Jay in particular is one of the most prolific crack climbers in the canyonlands region. Just like Fred Beckey and Layton Kor, if you’ve climbed enough, and whether you know it or not, you’ve likely climbed one of Jay’s routes. Join this legend to learn better technique for splitter cracks. As possibly the best crack-climbing crag in Moab, Maverick’s cracks are amazing Wingate Sandstone, just like Indian Creek, so this is a perfect clinic for those hoping to take their desert splitter technique to the next level. Just like The Creek though, the warm-ups are 5.10, so be ready for some physical climbing.
- OFF-WIDTHS ARE BEAUTIFUL with Ashley Ashcroft and Danny Parker and Jay Anderson
To the initiated, off-width climbing is known as one of the most technical styles of climbing there is. To the uninitiated, it’s little more than an instrument of torture. A little-known legend, and endeared to all who know him, Jay is one of the all-time greatest off-width climbers in the world. He was the author of what was at the time the world’s first 5.13 off-width, Lucille, in Vedauwoo, Wyoming, and has been quietly crushing hard off-widths, some of which are still unrepeated, for decades. Jay is the trusted advisor to many of our modern off-width idols, acting as a sensei of sorts with his quick wit and excellent technique. All these folks will help you ascend that next wide crack, inch by inch.
If you are a glutton for punishment, or simply want to climb that one damn off-width pitch on the tower route of your choice, this clinic is for you. At Off-width City in Long Canyon, you’ll have the chance to work on the subtle art of off-width war.
- SLABANEERING 101
One of climbing’s most eery sub-disciplines, and a favorite of last year’s event - slab climbing! Learn how to step it up, high step it up that is! Around here, we call is smanding; the sometimes-scary art of smearing on sand. Learn this esoteric practice while enjoying a grand tour of some of Wall Streets best slab climbs. Though we’ll start on 5.8, we’ll spend a good deal of our time right around 5.10. These climbs, done ground-up on the first ascents, are a hallmark of the famous Wall Street climbing area.
However, the skills you’ll develop will help you everywhere; from obscure desert towers with that one dreaded face pitch, to Yosemite and Joshua Tree, Eldorado Canyon, and beyond. Learning to use your feet is an essential tool in a well-rounded climber’s quiver. Speaking of well-rounded, did someone say smanding?!
- BIG BEND BOULDERING with Chris Schulte, presented by Black Diamond
Big Bend is Moab’s famous bouldering zone for Sandstone Bloc’s. The place is all about delicacy. Sandstone is fragile, and here especially so. Tiptoe through the crypto. Mind the trails. Be real low impact. Holds are few and far between. The style is powerful and balancy. There are many slabs, arêtes, slopers and other shapes. Holds are usually far apart. The rock can be very sandy or hard as sharpening stones. Join Chris to get pointers from one of the desert’s most prolific boulderers.
- MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY with Marcus Garcia
From the moment, the first hold is felt and the first step is taken, there are many minute muscle that are triggered to keep you stable on the route. Marcus Garcia will break down the individual moves in isolation that help you make one move in the most efficient manner. Over the course of the route you can find yourself less pumped and able to move with more ease. Focus will be on fingers placement, grip relax technique, shoulder driving movement. Leg driven movement. Hip position. Foot placement. These components should be considered when making a single move. When the moves are broken down in its simplicity, efficiency takes over.
- TRAD IS RAD! An Introduction to Trad Climbing
Sport climbing is great fun, but with few exceptions, the greatest climbs in the world—the most classic, historic lines—follow lines of natural weakness that require specific gear and specific techniques. Transitioning into traditional climbing can be a difficult affair without the proper mentorship, because of all the extra components involved. Logistically speaking, traditional climbing is more complex and involved than sport climbing, with a lot more to know about technique, gear placements, anchors, etc. If you are interested in expanding your skills beyond bolted sport climbs, this clinic is for you. This traditional climbing clinic will prepare you to place solid protection and build bombproof anchors to keep you feeling confident about climbing on your gear. All of this will allow you to venture further into the rich field of amazing American traditional climbing venues.
- ARE YOU KIDDING ME!? Clean Aid Tactics
One of the key characteristics to climbing towers in the greater Moab area is clean aid. From the Fisher Towers to Arches National Park, some of the most classic routes will require a very desert-specific bag of tricks. Join our local master aid climbers to learn the tools of the trade. This is one of the more specific clinics, so attendees will be expected to bring their personal aid climbing gear to facilitate a more efficient learning environment. Bring your Aliens and Tri-cams, and get ready to top-step!
- GYM TO CRAG
If your climbing has thus far been relegated to the indoors and you are looking to transition to outdoor climbing, this clinic is a great offering to get you started. This course is appropriate for top rope climbers and for those who are newly lead- certified or working towards certification in your local gym. Under the watchful eye of our expert local guides, we will help you make the transition to outdoor climbing and learn the necessary skills such as proper lead and top-rope belay technique, principles of lead climbing, anchor building, top-rope anchor cleaning, proper crag etiquette, etc.
If you have any questions regarding the Moab Craggin' Classic, please contact Event Coordinator Evan Clapper at [email protected]