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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

Climbers and Climate Change: Trevor Bloom

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. We've asked several of these Researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Trevor Bloom recently earned his Masters of Science at Western Washington University in the Department of Biology. Trevor’s research is focused on quantifying the consequences of climate change and wildfire in high-elevation ecosystems. To do so, he conducted a field survey of the alpine wildflower “Spotted Saxifrage” (Saxifraga austromontana) where he and his climbing partner crossed the Rocky Mountains from New Mexico to British Columbia. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Trevor to find out more:

Q&A with Trevor Bloom

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Bloom: In my line of research, the consequences of climate change are very visible. Perhaps the most evident change is the recession and loss of glaciers throughout the central and northern Rocky Mountains. As these glaciers shrink each year less meltwater becomes available down-stream. As this happens, we’re seeing some of the largest wildfire years on record. Uncharacteristically high wildfire activity has increased 6-fold since 1970. People are directly affected by these wildfires through loss of natural resources, destruction of homes, health issues and increased risk to firefighters. We’re losing a lot of the diversity of life that is in the alpine.

Trevor Bloom (right) and partner Matt Kneipp (left) on the summit of the Grant Teton during field work (2015)

I observe how populations of a wildflower, the Spotted Saxifrage, change over time as a result of warming temperatures, changing climate and increasing fire frequency in the alpine. The evidence from the research is conclusive: wildfires are having devastating, potentially irreparable consequences on certain species in the alpine. As once relatively rare fire events become more and more frequent at high-elevation, unique alpine organisms face habitat loss and possible extinction. Species that exist nowhere else in the world may be lost forever!

Oulton: What is the most striking impact of climate change you've observed in the alpine?

Bloom: Entire landscapes have been altered by wildfires in the alpine. Most people don’t think that fire can propagate through the alpine, but once a wildfire reaches the tree line, it spreads like… well, like wildfire!

Fire in the alpine at the Bob Marshall Wilderness Compex, MT in 2012 

Also, the changes taking place in Glacier National Park completely blew me away. When the park was established in 1910 there were about 150 active glaciers, now there are fewer than 25, and may be zero before 2050. Once those glaciers are gone we can’t get them back, and we’re already beginning to see the consequences through increased summer drought and huge wildfires.

Oulton: Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Bloom: We need to take climate change seriously as individuals and as a nation. A tremendous part of that is being active in the political process so that our elected officials make positive climate policy decisions. The problem right now is that the new administration’s cabinet is being stuffed full of climate change deniers (not even skeptics!). This is very scary because climate change deniers comprise a tremendously small portion (<2%) of the scientific community. Many of these politicians have a long history of combating environmentally friendly policies.

It is critical to convince policy makers that this issue is important to us, to our country and to our world! The vast majority of the scientific community agrees that human actions are a driver for climate change. Unless policies are put in place, companies and individuals will continue to make environmentally insensitive business and lifestyle decisions that are convenient, but detrimental long term.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Bloom: First and foremost, we as individuals need to be informed and make informed decisions through voting and consumption choices. Your dollar goes a long way and your vote goes a long way. I think many people struggle with staying up to date on contemporary issues. A great way to do this is to join conservation organizations at all levels of policy. There is a litany of organizations from the local to the federal level that do the research regarding ongoing policy decisions and will offer great suggestions on how you as an individual can help out. Open their emails! Sign those petitions! Send those letters to your congressmen and women! Call them up on the phone! Show them you care! Stay up to date on contemporary issues, especially regarding climate change and public resource management.

A great example of this is the Outdoor Alliance. They regularly send out emails that provide information on policies that will threaten public land access/preservation at the federal level. Right now our access to climbing on state and federal land may be highly compromised! I’m willing to bet that there if you’re reading this, there is a local conservation group near your home that you can get involved in.

Lastly, be a personal steward to alpine environments. Stay on designated trails, respect closures, don’t pick the flowers or stomp on the tundra; these plants may be a hundred years old and fragile. Basically, respect Leave No Trace principles. If you allow these themes to guide your actions you’ll be taking personal measures to help preserve our beloved alpine. Share the outdoors and your values with others, especially the youth, so they too can make good decisions that benefit our environment. There is something so freeing about being in the mountains, but we must recognize it as a privilege that must be protected through good stewardship and political activism.

The beautiful Spotted Saxifrage (Saxifraga austromontana). Photo by Trevor Bloom

Oulton: All good advice! You're the creator of the "Climb-It Change" website and campaign. Tell us a little bit about it and your upcoming documentary.

Bloom: I’ve been working as a biologist for about 8 years now, which has involved writing peer-reviewed publications, discovering new species and generally investigating natural phenomena. However, I don’t feel like the science I’ve been doing has been communicated well with the general public, which is a critical component in preserving these species and places that I am very passionate about. The intention of the Climb-It Change documentary and blog is to present climate science and research in an approachable manner, to encourage people to get outside, experience nature first hand, and to help preserve our natural resources in a time of political peril.

The documentary follows my climbing partner, Matt Kneipp, and I as we traverse the entire Rocky Mountain Chain, sampling 76 peaks, rock climbing in six states and two Canadian Provinces, all while conducting field research on the Spotted Saxifrage wildflower that we detailed earlier in this interview. The documentary’s core purpose is to spread awareness about the climate change and increase in wildfire frequency that is happening in alpine environments. It is an adventure story and a method to educate a broader audience about the consequences of climate change in the alpine! So stoked. We expect a first release of the film in Bellingham, WA on Earth Day (4/22/17), followed by an internet release.

Oulton: We’re looking forward to seeing it! Thanks for chatting with us Trevor, good luck with the rest of your research and graduate program!

The Spotted Saxifrage in its high-alpine home. Photo by Trevor Bloom during his 2015 field season.

For more information on Trevor, his research/blog, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Trevor’s Trip Report for the AAC

Trevor’s Website

Trevor’s Contact: [email protected]

Climbers and Climate Change: Kristin Schild

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Kristin Schild is a 6th year Ph.D. student at Dartmouth College in the Department of Earth Sciences. Kristin’s Research focuses on understanding the dynamics of glaciers that terminate in the ocean (tidewater glaciers) in Greenland, Alaska and Antarctica. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Kristin to find out more:

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Schild: The vast majority of climate change driven ice loss (which translates to sea level rise) occurs from tidewater glacier systems. Understanding how and why these glaciers are changing, and the physical processes driving these changes, is crucial to predicting how they will behave in a changing climate. My research looks at a piece of this complicated puzzle, in particular how meltwater that is exiting a tidewater glacier influences the circulation of ocean waters adjacent to the glacier (in the fjord), and glacier terminus melting and stability.

Oulton: Your field work in Norway on the Kronebreen Glacier put you in an extremely remote location. What was that like?

Schild: My field season was about 3 weeks long, including travel. We were stationed out of a very small research base and would take a boat to the glacier each day. I’ve done a lot of work in polar regions, so I knew it would be cold, windy and that sometimes instruments wouldn’t operate in the cold, but this was my first time working from a boat which presented all new challenges. We had to wear full survival suits, including large steel-toed boots and full zip-up hoods, but collecting the data presented the largest challenge.

Kristin Schild performing field work in the Larsbreen Ice Cave.  (Svalbard, Norway - 2013).

We were collecting water samples with air temperatures of about -20 °F and with water temps of about -4 °F, so by the end of the day everything had a solid layer of ice around it - your gloves, the sampling bottles, all of your equipment - everything was frozen. We had to be very diligent to knock all the ice off the instruments between every sample to prevent inaccurate readings or sample contamination.

Oulton: Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Schild: I think the first challenge is that there is a tremendous amount of misinformation which results in people not knowing what to think anymore. We need to make information about climate change accessible and tangible to the general public.  As climbers, I’m sure many have seen their favorite ice climbs not come in, or a classic route up a mountain change because the snow bridges are melting out earlier each season; so the effects of a changing climate have been observed, however this is not necessarily the case for everyone.

The second challenge is that climate change itself is complex and far-reaching: there is no simple or single solution to climate change because it impacts so many different aspects of our environment and economy. Many people are focusing on adaptation and mitigation, versus curbing emissions, because those solutions seem simpler or more straight forward. 

Kristin Schild servicing a time-lapse camera to monitor the Hubbard Glacier (Alaska, 2011). Photo by Gordon Hamilton

However, if we don't make necessary economic and lifestyle changes to reduce emissions, we won't be able to mitigate and adapt fast enough.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Schild: There are so many choices, just in our everyday lives, which we can make to reduce our contribution to global emissions that won't hurt our economy (and, in fact, would help it). Many we’ve heard before: turn off the lights, take public transportation or ride your bike to work. But there is also the consumerism side: buy local products, buy energy efficient appliances, and reduce overall spending.

The real big one though, is to vote. Everyone should take the opportunity to urge government representatives and policymakers to support the development of renewable energies, the development of smarter/more efficient vehicles, and research into new technologies. The scientific community is working hard to understand how our planet is changing and on what timescales, but without the support of the government, there is a limit to what we can do.

Kristin Schild headed back to the helicopter after installing a high resolution GPS on Helmheim Glacier (Greenland, 2009). Photo: Gordon Hamilton

Oulton: Thank you. That wraps up out climate change questions. Let’s talk about climbing. Did you see anything in Svalbard that would be fun climbing?

Schild: The rock around Svalbard is all sedimentary rock, so it’s not ideal for rock climbing. However, the skiing is amazing, there are several ice caves, and ice climbing routes do exist! The views and terrain are quite variable, so I can only imagine any exploration being an incredible experience.

Oulton: Have you had any interesting wildlife encounters during field work?

Schild: While I haven’t had any personal encounters, I’ve certainly had some unplanned repairs because of them! One trip out to Greenland we found a few Arctic Foxes had eaten through our “fox-proof” cables connecting our solar panels to the GPS system. On another trip in Alaska, we found the housing for our time-lapse camera had been used as a scratching post by a bear about a week after setting up the system. Thus, instead of watching the glacier terminus advance and retreat, we now had a whole season’s-worth of pictures looking first at the bear, then at the ground.

Oulton: What advice would you give to someone who wants to visit Svalbard?

Schild: I would actually encourage them to visit during the late winter (February-March). It is absolutely bitterly cold and is just coming out of 24 hours of polar darkness, but there is an incredible peace in the darkness up there and the northern lights are the best I’ve ever seen.

Oulton: That sounds oddly amazing. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Schild: This past summer we were contracted by the US Geological Survey to install a survey marker at windy corner (measuring plate movement) and to determine the ice-thickness at the summit of Denali. Our group of four spent about 3 weeks shuttling all of our science equipment up Denali - equipment which included a rock drill, various different cold-temperature epoxies, a small car battery, as well as the high-resolution GPS system and ground penetrating radar (GPR) system. This was certainly more weight than any of us would take on a normal climbing trip! The day we summited and measured the ice thickness there was very poor visibility, so instead of taking pictures of the view, many other climbers took pictures of our group towing around the radar to measure the ice thickness at the summit. We later found out that everyone thought it looked like we were vacuuming the summit!

Oulton: You were able to climb Denali for science! Thank you so much for chatting with us, Kristin. We look forward to hearing about more of the results from your research!

Kristin Schild descending along the ridge traverse from High Camp to Camp 14 on Denali after completing a radar survey measuring the snow thickness at the summit (Alaska, 2016). Photo: Seth Campbell

For more information on Kristin, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Kristin’s Trip Report for the AAC

Kristin’s Dartmouth Profile

Climbers and Climate Change: Alice Hill

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Alice Hill is a 4th year Ph.D. student at the University of Colorado, Boulder in the Geography Program. Alice's research is focused on mountain hydrology, specifically the importance of snow and ice melt water as water resources for communities in Central Asia. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Alice to find out more:

Q&A With Alice Hill

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Hill:  Rivers in the Central Asia region are sourced from snow and ice melt in the mountainous countries like Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and then they flow across borders downstream. Changes to glaciers and snow in a warming climate suggest that this region might experience water vulnerabilities in the future. I am trying to quantify that potential water vulnerability. This region is already politically tense for a variety of reasons, and water resources could be a spark for conflict.

Oulton: Many people consider that region to be volatile and dangerous. After your experience, how do you respond to this pre-conception? Is it justified?

Hill: In rural communities we experienced generous hospitality and positive interactions. In remote alpine areas our Kyrgyz colleagues were more concerned about our safety from packs of wolves than from the people who live in those areas. In urban areas we didn’t feel unsafe, although we did pay attention to State Department warnings that were issued.

Alice Hill below the toe of the Karabatkak Glacier, Kyrgyzstan.

The highly bureaucratic systems were challenging and at times made me feel vulnerable. There are a different set of cultural norms that I didn’t understand. I wasn’t privy to the bribing culture, even for tasks as simple as getting your luggage on an airplane. Not speaking Russian, Kyrgyz or Tajik, there was a challenging language barrier. Thankfully our in-country partners were there to help us as both translators and negotiators.

Oulton: It’s nice to hear that there are good people in these places. Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Hill: For me, the biggest challenge with climate change is getting our new leadership to actually buy-in that it is happening. I am anxious that the new administration will be led by people who choose not to believe that climate change is real. That, to me, is the major concern because they are the ones who affect what policies we adopt and what kind of role model we want to be to the international community. I’m trying to stay optimistic.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Hill: As westerners, we all make individual choices that affect our climate. Indeed, all of us need to make individual lifestyle changes to holistically make impactful change. There are many positive individual decisions we can make on a daily basis: riding a bike, or taking the bus, living in a smaller house, taking shorter showers, buying local food.

The question is, to what level are we willing to inconvenience ourselves? We’re so used to having this highly convenient lifestyle and we need to be willing to sacrifice some of that for the sake of our local and global community We need society scale buy-in for individual changes to collectively have an impact.

Oulton: Absolutely, do you think that leading by example in our communities is effective?

Hill: I think that’s certainly one of the most important ways to do it. I know I’m affected and inspired the most by my friends that ‘walk the walk.’ I think role-modeling is an important piece of the solution.

Alice Hill (center) and fellow CU researchers Alana Wilson and Cholpon Minbaeva (both left) were greeted with kindness and incredible hospitality by the locals in the Kyzyl Suu Basin, Kyrgyzstan.

Oulton: Great, thank you. That covers our main questions on climate science and impact. Let’s talk about climbing. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Hill: While working in the field as an instructor with NOLS, there was one route that was especially memorable; a traverse across the Northern Patagonian Icefield. Patagonia is one of those places where you have to really lean into the uncertainty of the terrain and weather, among all the other variables that climbers are used to. Case in point, my co-instructors and I wanted to try a traverse that included an unmapped “blank” area on the map. This blank spot had no mapped topographic information because the photographic glare off the glacier surfaces prevented aerial photographs from being used to discern terrain information.  So we basically had little idea what was in store around the next corner until we got there.

We were feeling pretty good about the route after getting up-and-over what we thought was going to be crux of the traverse. We dropped down into a glacial valley and thought we could just run the valley out to the main glacier to get a food re-supply. As it turned out, we were perched on top of this buttress at the head of a steep sided valley with a Class VI cascading river running down the guts.

After days of scouting, we found a route out we were fairly confident we could use to descend. We rappelled down the buttress and pieced together this really steep, thick bushwhack to curl around a ridge. Upon finally reaching our re-supply location, we discovered there was nothing there.  At this point we were totally out of food, eating spice-kit soup, and mostly going off mate fumes. We walked out another day to the only other logical place the food supply might be. Lo-and-behold there it was... We set up camp, rested, and literally ate for two days.

Oulton: You are quite the leader, Alice. Thank you so much for talking with us today. Good luck with your research and the rest of your doctoral program!

Alice Hill taking water samples below the Karabatkak Glacier, Kyrgyzstan.

For more information on Alice, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Alice's Trip Report for the AAC

Alice’s CU Boulder Profile

AAC Announces 2017 Cutting Edge Grant Award Winners

The American Alpine Club is pleased to announce the recipients of the 2017 Cutting Edge Grant award. The Cutting Edge Grant, a new evolution of the AAC’s historic Lyman Spitzer Award, continues the Club’s tradition supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.


The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue.

January 12, 2017, Golden, CO— The American Alpine Club is pleased to announce the recipients of the 2017 Cutting Edge Grant award. The Cutting Edge Grant, a new evolution of the AAC’s historic Lyman Spitzer Award, continues the Club’s tradition supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.
 
The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2016/17 grant cycle, the AAC received 33 grant applications and awarded $20,000 to three recipients.

  • ANNE GILBERT CHASE - ($8,000) to attempt the first ascent of the Southwest face of Mt. Nilkantha (6596m), a major peak of the Garhwal division of the Himalayas, in the Uttarakhand region of the Indian state of Uttarakhand. The route contains 1,500m of technical climbing from base to summit and features steep rock and ice mixed climbing with numerous objective hazards. Mt. Nilkantha has been climbed only a few times via the North and West Ridges while the more impressive Southwest face is yet to be completed.

  • JEROME SULLIVAN - ($6,000) to attempt the first ascent of the East face of Monte San Lorenzo (3706m) on the border between Argentina and Chile in Patagonia. Various parties have attempted the face yet no one has succeeded -- cornices and seracs top the 4km wall, leaving little safe lines. The primary objective is a steep and technical buttress on the East face of the Cumbre Central.

  • CLINT HELANDER - ($6,000) to attempt the first ascent of the South Pillar of Panbari (6905m) located in the Peri Himal region just north of Manaslu in Nepal. Panbari, though close to the popular and accessible Manaslu trekking circuit, has seen little attention from climbers. The South Pillar begins with a web of couloirs that weave upward for 1000m with the technical pillar beginning at about 5300m with steep snow, ice and mixed climbing expected, with the rock being fractured granite.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading
provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are
additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue
evacuation, repatriation back to the US, deployed Global Rescue Personnel, and
more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The American Alpine Club has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. From funding the first ascent of Mt. Logan in 1925, to the exploration of the Karakoram in 1938, to the 2006 first ascent of Nanga Parbat’s Rupal Face, the AAC has stood to support climbers who push their physical and mental limits and celebrated their accomplishments.

 

Climbers and Climate Change: Nathalie Chardon

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Nathalie Chardon is a 4th year Ph.D. student at the University of Colorado, Boulder in the Environmental Studies Program. Nathalie's research is surveying alpine plant species on popular trails on many of Colorado’s “14’ers” (mountains with summits greater than 14,000 feet). Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Chardon to find out more:

Q&A With Nathalie Chardon

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers?

Chardon: My research is largely focused on how plant communities in extreme environments respond to human disturbance. Without a clear understanding of how these communities respond to increasing human traffic, we can’t effectively conserve these areas.

Areas that may have been relatively untouched in times past (e.g. alpine ecosystems) are especially vulnerable to negative impacts from human disturbance. As climbers we are frequent visitors to these sensitive regions and thus have the responsibility to be aware of the consequences of our actions.

Oulton: Looking ahead, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing climate change?

Chardon: I anticipate there being two primary issues to solving the climate change problem. (1) A lack of funding for long-term climate change research, and, (2) A lack of public knowledge on what processes are actually happening. This ends up leading to political decisions, from the citizen to the senator level, that don’t support scientifically backed claims.

Relatively quick climate change impacts will occur on 10-, 20-, or 50-year timescales. To conduct thorough research on these impacts, we need consistent funding over the same time-scales. Our current political/economic system typically focuses on short term profits, perhaps 5-year profits at the most. Resultantly, obtaining that kind of funding is extremely difficult.

Nathalie Chardon surveying plant communities at ~13,500 feet on Mt Belford

Alpine sunrise on Quandary Peak during Nathalie's field work

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Chardon: I disagree firmly with that sentiment. Anyone can have a huge impact on reducing greenhouse gases. My recommendation boils down to three things: buying local food, drastically reducing waste, and driving only when necessary.

Consider for a moment how far most food needs to travel to make it to your table, and how much fossil fuel is burned to accomplish that. Multiply that by 3 meals a day, 7 days a week, every single month, etcetera, and pretty soon you’ve racked up an extensive fossil fuel bill.

If you do these three things, you will drastically reduce your greenhouse gas emissions! This would be incredibly impactful, because greenhouse gases directly ‘fuel’ climate change.

Oulton: That makes sense, thank you. That wraps up our main climate change questions. You’ve spent countless hours doing research on Colorado’s 14’ers. Do you have a favorite/least favorite 14’er?

Chardon: My least favorite is Bierstadt, it’s depressing to me how the trail has become a highway. Choosing a favorite is harder… I think it must be the South Side of Mt. Elbert, from the Black Cloud trailhead. The whole hike is super steep with spectacular views, I absolutely love it! Over the two times I’ve been up I think I’ve only seen four people total. You’re so removed.

Oulton: Have you had any ridiculous tourist interactions on Colorado’s 14’ers?

Chardon: For my field work I’ve built a 1x1 meter grid that I can assemble on-site, but that means when I’m hiking I have four white poles sticking out my pack. It’s an unusual sight. The two funniest inquiries I’ve had are “Is that a hang gliding get-up?” and “Are you carrying a volleyball net?”

Nathalie's field assistant, Clea Berholet, assembling the surveying grid on Grey's Peak

Oulton: That’s fantastic. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Chardon: Climbing limestone tufas in Kalymnos, Greece. Hands down, it was incredible. I’ve never experienced any climbing like it, ever. Ever. The moves you make there have nothing to do with climbing as I knew it. At one point, I put my feet against one tufa and my back against another – it was the only time I’ve taken a no-hands-rest on an overhung route. I loved it!

Oulton: If you were given a 3-month, all expenses-paid climbing trip, where would you go/What would you do?

Chardon: Well, I would do two things. I would start out sport climbing near Yangshuo, China, where they have those huge limestone arches. Then I’d take some time in the Karakoram Range, Pakistan to do some SkiMo (Ski Mountaineering), without a doubt. Let me know if that trip ever happens!

We’ll keep you posted, Nathalie! Thanks for chatting with us.

For more information on Nathalie, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Nathalie’s Trip report for the AAC

Nathalie’s CU Boulder Profile

2016 Conservation and Advocacy Recap

It’s a wrap! 2016 was a strong year for the AAC. As we turn off the lights at the Clubhouse for the holiday break, we have a lot to celebrate. In 2016, we ramped up our efforts in protecting healthy climbing landscapes and advancing climber competency. Here are a few highlights on the conservation and public policy side:

AAC on Capitol Hill:
In the last several weeks, two bills AAC lobbied on were signed into law. Our partners at the Outdoor Industry Association have reached out to let us know that AAC’s lobby day last February made a difference in the passage of the REC Act and the National Park Service Centennial Act. More about these pieces of legislation:

  • REC Act: Recreation’s Economic Contributions (REC) Act directs the Bureau of Economic Analysis to quantify how much the outdoor industry contributes to job creation and consumer spending. We anticipate the outcome of the analysis will further justify the importance of outdoor recreation and keeping public lands public.

  • Centennial Act: The Centennial Act will provide greater funding for our national parks and will leverage philanthropic support to sustain the parks we love for the next one hundred years. 

“Climbers have a vested interest in what happens in D.C., and showing up to make our voice heard is key to the future of the sport. By working together, with the industry and partner organizations, we are stronger as a community.
–AAC Policy Committee Member, Brad Brooks”

 

The Walker Order:
U.S. Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell released her Secretary’s Order—called the “Walker order” in memory of past AAC President Doug Walker. The Order is an effort to decrease barriers for disadvantaged youth to access public lands and waters through expediting the permit process. Secretary Jewell first announced the Walker Order at the AAC Annual Benefit Dinner in D.C. February, 2016.

Protecting Bears Ears:
Southeast Utah contains some of the best climbing in the country—Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Comb Ridge, Valley of the Gods and plenty yet to be discovered. Home to more than 100,000 cultural and archaeological sites, the Bears Ears area is also the most significant unprotected archeological area in the country. Together with Access Fund and Outdoor Alliance, we rallied climbers to send letters to the Obama administration, encouraging protection of climbing and Native American cultural resources. We delivered an analysis of the letters to policymakers. AAC CEO Phil Powers, Board President Matt Culberson and Policy Committee member Peter Metcalf co-authored a letter (CEQ) in support of the Monument.

AAC Conservation Grants & Awards:
2016 saw an increase in the amount of funding we awarded to our conservation grant recipients:

  • Cornerstone Conservation Grant: In 2016, AAC awarded a Cornerstone grant to 13 projects across the country. Learn about those projects here.

Check out our education page to learn more about how we're increasing climber competency as well as conserving our resources. A huge thanks to all our members, partners, and supporters who make these accomplishments possible! 

 

President Signs REC Act: Victory for Climbers

REC Act Victory

Emma Longcope

Just how much does the outdoor recreation industry contribute to our nation’s economy? A hell of a lot. But, unlike other industries, we don't know for sure because the federal government has never quantified outdoor recreation’s economic impact.

Thanks to the work of the Outdoor Industry Association and many of our partners, President Obama just signed the REC Act, which will be a game changer. The Act directs the Bureau of Economic Analysis to quantify just how much the outdoor industry contributes to job creation and consumer spending. The AAC is particularly psyched about this because:

1.) This analysis will provide a way to recognize the environment’s connection to our well-being-- politically, economically and personally. It’s an acknowledgement that the mountains and deserts and recreational landscapes do not exist in a void, but instead are intrinsically connected to our jobs, spending, income, and health.

2.) More information about the importance of recreational activities will help us make a stronger case for the importance of our public land for the economy, as well as for future generations and other species. Keeping our public lands in public hands has become increasingly important in today’s political landscape, and we are optimistic that conservation efforts will rise as a priority when policymakers receive quantified information regarding the recreational value of these wild places.

3.) We advocated for passage of the REC Act, and we’re excited to see our efforts result in action! In February 2016, along with a group of our board members and partners, we climbed Capitol Hill to talk with policymakers and advocate for the places we climb.

As Mark Butler, AAC Board Member and 37-year veteran of the National Park Service, said, “It is critically important for climbers to be represented in public policy at all levels of government. If we are not at the table, our issues will not be considered when the laws and policies affecting climbing are developed.” We will continue our advocacy work in DC and will keep you informed on the evolution of public policy that impacts climbers and the places we love to climb. We ask that you continue raising your voices in support of the places and pursuits at the heart of our AAC community. Cheers!

 

Banner photo: AAC member Austin Siadak

AAC Gift Memberships

Give the gift of membership this holiday season. 

Here's just a few of the benefits you'll be giving:

✓ $12,500 of rescue coverage.

✓ Discounts on gear, lodging, events, and more.

✓ Access to publications, grants, and digital resources.

✓ A chance to make a difference in your local climbing community.

✓ A national network of more than 17,000 climbers in support of education and healthy climbing landscapes.

BMC International Climbing Meet Calls For Participants

AAC member Shay Skinner on Fear of Infection E4 6a, Llanberis Pass. Photo: @Alexmessengerphoto

AAC member Shay Skinner on Fear of Infection E4 6a, Llanberis Pass. Photo: @Alexmessengerphoto

We have the opportunity to send two (one female and one male) experienced trad climbers to this exciting British Mountaineering Council event in May. Preference will be given to climbers who have not attended a BMC International Meet before. 

The 2017 BMC International Summer Climbing Meet will be located at the Count House in Cornwall, a 200-year-old building perched above Cornwall’s finest granite cliff, Bosigran. Participants will get access to presentation, clinics, and climbing with diverse local partners. 

Check out the application (due January 30) and more information.

 

A New Political Climate: What's Next for Climbers?

As climbers, we have a unique connection to public lands and our environment. Beginning with its early founders, the American Alpine Club has a long history of environmental conservation and ethics, wilderness management and the scientific exploration of mountain regions.

The recent election has brought uncertainty about the future of our public lands and our environment. While our membership is politically diverse, we can agree that as a climbing community we bear a responsibility for protecting the places we climb and for protecting our right to clean air, clean water, healthy forests, rivers and deserts. Our mutual admiration for climbing and climbing landscapes unites us and transcends partisanship. Together we are stronger. And together we can do a lot of good.

Here are some of the ways we can get involved in protecting the places we climb and working toward our vision of healthy climbing landscapes:

  • Stay informed: For public lands information, follow our partners at Outdoor Alliance. Learn about the latest environmental science with Yale Climate Connections, Protect Our Winters and NRDC. For updates on what Congress is up to, subscribe to The Hill.

  • Learn how to be an advocate: Check out OA's Advocacy 101 series. 

  • Act locally: Engage with your local AAC Chapter and organize a trail stewardship day. Apply for an AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant. Connect with your local land trust, work with your local city council on sustainability initiatives, find ways to volunteer.

  • Reduce your carbon footprint: Carpool to the crag. Ride your bike to work, walk or take the bus when possible. Reduce your water usage, reuse and recycle. Support clean energy sources.  

  • Learn about AAC’s researchers and the work they’re doing on alpine science. Applications for research grants are open from November 15-January 15.

  • Tell us about your local stewardship work so we can help spread the word.

AAC’s second president John Muir once wrote, “The mountains are calling and I must go and I will work on while I can, studying incessantly.” Most people don’t realize that quote doesn’t end with “and I must go.” Muir saw responsibility and purpose as well as pleasure in the mountains. So do we.

 

AAC Annouces 2016 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Recipients

The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2016 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI, Clif Bar and CamelBak. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. "The Cornerstone Conservation Grant has helped us with many projects over the years— composting toilets, graveled parking lots and a graffiti removal initiative,” said Southeastern Climbers Coalition Executive Director, Cody Roney. “We greatly appreciate the American Alpine Club for providing this grant to make our LCO projects come to life."

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members. Congratulations to our 2016 Cornerstone recipients. 

October 18, 2016, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2016 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI, Clif Bar and CamelBak. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. "The Cornerstone Conservation Grant has helped us with many projects over the years— composting toilets, graveled parking lots and a graffiti removal initiative,” said Southeastern Climbers Coalition Executive Director, Cody Roney. “We greatly appreciate the American Alpine Club for providing this grant to make our LCO projects come to life."

 A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2016 Cornerstone recipients:

Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition, Kentucky - $2,500
The Gallery, Pendergrass-Murray Recreation Preserve

With a high concentration of moderate routes in a small area, the gallery has seen an enormous spike in users and impact. Funds will be used for consultation with the American Conservation Experience (ACE) to help train future land stewards, ensure good drainage from area springs, the purchase of building materials where natural materials are not available, and plants to aid in re-vegetation efforts.

AAC Richmond Chapter, Virginia - $1,500
Manchester Wall

In partnership with the city of Richmond and the James River Outdoor Coalition, the AAC’s Richmond Chapter is constructing a dedicated access path and pedestrian benches on the Manchester Wall in Richmond, Virginia. This unique climbing area uses a historic bridge abutment as a way for local university students, summer camps and recreational climbers to learn lead climbing and rescue techniques.

Mid Atlantic Climbers, Maryland - $5,000
Carderock Climbing Area, Chesapeake and Ohio National Historic Park

Flood damage threatens to destroy riverbank retaining walls that prevent total erosion of this key regional climbing area. The project will repair and extend walls while adding more permanent design and materials.

Southeastern Climbers Coalition, Tennessee - $5,000
Denny Cove, Southern Cumberland Plateau

Funds will be used to help build out one of the region’s newest crags. Harboring over 150 routes on three-mile-long cliff side, the area is experiencing an enormous amount of climber traffic. Gravel and building materials are needed for road and parking lot construction, and trail building work.

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, Utah - $750
Joe’s Valley

AAC funds will support the installation of seasonal latrines during the 2017 spring and fall climbing season at this world famous destination where human waste facilities do not currently exist. Efforts are underway for a permanent solution.

Upper Peninsula Climbers Coalition (UPCC), Michigan - $500
AAA Walls, Marquette County

The historic AAA walls have hosted 4-H groups, Boy Scouts, university students, and women’s groups for years and, the UPCC has arranged to keep it open with the current private landowner. AAC is helping ensure the stewardship of the area by funding trail maintenance and signage supplies.

Washington Climbers Coalition, Washington - $4,000
Washington Pass Legacy Trail Project, North Cascades

There are much needed climbing trail improvements from Blue Lake Trail to alpine climbs on Liberty Bell, Concord Tower, North Early Winter Spire, and South Early Winter Spire. Funds will be used for trail building supplies, signage, and wag bag dispensers as part of an extensive trail project to build sustainable, safe access to the Liberty Bell Group, one of the country’s most scenic and popular alpine climbing destinations.

Levitation 49, Alaska - $2,000
Valdez City Crags

Levitation 49 has been working tirelessly to promote and expand climbing, both winter and summer, in the Valdez area. The crags closest to the city are in need of major infrastructure work. AAC’s funds will help with the construction of stone stairs, retaining walls and drainage structures.

Ohio Climbers Coalition, Ohio - $5,000
Springfield Gorge

The Springfield Gorge is set to become the largest climbing area in the state but is in need of extensive rehabilitation. In lieu of requiring permits, the Ohio Climber Coalition has negotiated the construction of educational kiosks and signage with the land manager (Clark County Parks Department). The Cornerstone Grant will be used to help with purchase of those materials in addition to trail building costs.

South Central Pennsylvania Climbers, Pennsylvania - $500
Governor Stable Boulders, Governor Stable Nature Preserve

The SCPC is one of the newest organizations helping ensure access for their local climbers. AAC funds will help with costs associated with trail building and raising a bridge above the flood line at this important area.

Washington’s National Park Fund, Washington - $1,250
Mount Rainier NP Search and Rescue Cabin

Funds will be used to help in the restoration of a historic 1936 Civilian Conservation Corps cabin in the Longmire National Historic Landmark District in Mount Rainier National Park to house Search & Rescue volunteers and support staff. The cabin gives rescuers the opportunity for more timely responses to emergencies within the park and gives the NPS staff additional resources to utilize.

Rumney Climbers Association, New Hampshire - $4,000
The Final Frontier, Rumney

The Northwest Crags at Rumney are in need of additional parking, trail systems and a human waste solution at this nationally known climbing area. Facilities can also be used by local hikers, making the impact of this project even greater.

Climbing Stewards, California - $3,000
Camp 4, Yosemite

AAC funding will support the construction of a new, expanded climbing information kiosk at Camp 4, in Yosemite Valley. The current info board is outdated and will be replaced during a renovation and expansion of Camp 4. The new board will include increased conservation messaging and best practices, and additional information about climbing management in Yosemite National Park.

AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant Selection Committee:

·       Eddie Espinosa, Committee Chair
·       Aram Attarian
·       Audrey Todd Borisov
·       Elisabeth Bowers
·       Jason Flesher
·       Matt Hepp
·       Joe Sambataro
·       Rebecca Schild
·       Maria Povec, Cornerstone Grant Coordinator, AAC Staff

 


2016 Anchor Replacement Fund Recipients Announced

The AAC and Access Fund are pleased to announce the 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure, and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem. We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support fifteen fixed anchor replacement projects across the country.

This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.

October 13, 2016, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure, and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem. We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support fifteen fixed anchor replacement projects across the country. This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.

Arkansas Climbers Coalition
Arkansas Climbers Coalition (ARCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement at Sam’s Throne area, particularly The Outback and The West Main Bluff. The grant will augment their fixed anchor fund, and support the work of ARCC’s volunteer anchor replacement team. ARCC is a longtime Access Fund Affiliate and a grassroots climbing non-profit working to steward and protect Arkansas climbing.

Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition
Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition (SVCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement in Breaks Interstate Park, a state park located across the Virginia-Kentucky line. The park was officially opened to climbing earlier this year, and SVCC will upgrade anchors on dozens of historic, sandstone routes in Breaks. SVCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and volunteer-run climbing non-profit focused on stewardship and protection of southwest Virginia climbing areas.

Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) to replace fixed anchors at Farley Ledges, Mormon Hollow, and the Sunbowl. WMCC will focus its work on bolts and top-anchors, using new long-lasting glue-in bolts. WMCC is a longstanding Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing organization that leads stewardship and protection of western Massachusetts climbing resources.

Boise Climbers Alliance
Boise Climber’s Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs outside of Boise, Idaho. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.

Ohio Climbers Coalition
Ohio Climbers Coalition (OCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Springfield Gorge, Ohio. This historic climbing area is being revitalized by local community partners, and it is being transformed into a climbing park—likely the largest climbing area in Ohio. OCC’s anchor replacement work will focus on updating the area’s aging bolts and top-anchors. OCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local, grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation organization.

Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition (SICC) to replace fixed anchors at The Prow climbing area. SICC’s project will upgrade 18 routes with bomber, longlasting half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. SICC is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local climbing stewardship organization working in the Twin Falls area.

Illinois Climbers Association
Illinois Climbers Coalition (ICA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Jackson Falls, Illinois. Jackson Falls is one of the most popular climbing destinations in the Midwest, and ICA will focus on upgrading the area’s aging bolts and anchors with glue-in bolts and stainless steel hardware. ICA is an Access Fund Affiliate and longtime Illinois climbing advocacy and stewardship organization.

New River Alliance of Climbers
We are pleased to award funding to the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) to replace fixed anchors in Summersville Lake, West Virginia. NRAC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy non-profit working to protect New River Gorge climbing resources.

Carolina Climbers Coalition
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Hidden Valley, Virginia. The CCC worked with Access Fund to acquire the Hidden Valley property in 2014. CCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and the climbing advocacy and conservation organization preserving and protecting climbing in North and South Carolina.

Minnesota Climbers Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA) to replace fixed anchors in Willow River State Park, Wisconsin. Willow River is a popular mid-western limestone sport crag, and MCA will continue to upgrade the area’s old 3/8” bolts to modern, long-lasting glue-in anchors. MCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy and conservation organization working to steward and protect climbing in Minnesota and surrounding areas.

Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain’s most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.

Southern Utah Climber's Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber's Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA’s work will focus on Black and Tan, Kelly’s Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the Bureau of Land Management. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.

Friends of Joshua Tree
Friends of Joshua Tree (FOJT) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors  at Joshua Tree’s Echo Rock, Intersection Rock, and other areas. A well-regarded partner of Joshua Tree National Park, FOJT has led sustainable fixed anchor and bolt replacement in Joshua Tree for more than a decade. The grant will support their ongoing efforts to upgrade routes with half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. FOJT is an Access Fund Affiliate and a non-profit climbing stewardship and advocacy organization.

Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding for a second year to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California’s Pinnacles National Monument. FoP maintains a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles using a hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
We are pleased to award Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with funding to replace fixed anhors in Lower Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The project builds off of SLCA’s recent success in American Fork and Big Cottonwood Canyon, where they upgraded dozens of popular routes. The work in Little Cottonwood Canyon will be coordinated by SLCA’s new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative. SLCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local, non-profit climbing advocacy and stewardship organization focused on the climbing resources of the Wasatch and beyond.

New AAC Grant for Advanced Athletes

We're proud to announce a new climbing grant, the Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant, an evolution of the Lyman Spitzer Grant, seeks to fund advanced and capable climbers planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. 
 
Cutting Edge awards are intended to more significantly contribute towards total expedition costs. Awards will typically fall in the $5,000 to $15,000 range. Learn more.

AAC and the Alliance for Sustainable Energy Powering Alpine Research

Kristin Schild in her survival suit and field gear collecting samples out of a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) in Kongsfjorden, Svalbard, Norway. She is studying the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and its influence on physical and biolo…

Kristin Schild in her survival suit and field gear collecting samples out of a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) in Kongsfjorden, Svalbard, Norway. She is studying the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and its influence on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Photo: K. Lindbäck

The Alliance for Sustainable Energy, which manages the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) in Golden for the Department of Energy, has partnered with the American Alpine Club to provide AAC Research Grants. The Alliance will contribute $5,000 to future grants and provide technical support for their administration. These grants will support clean energy and other scientific endeavors in mountains and crags around the world. Grant winners provide vital knowledge about our climbing environments and enrich our understanding of environmental impacts.

The AAC Research Grant application opens on November 15 and closes on January 15. Learn more about the club’s grants program and how you can apply: https://americanalpineclub.org/research-grants

August 29, 2016, Golden, CO—The Alliance for Sustainable Energy, which manages the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) in Golden for the Department of Energy, has partnered with the American Alpine Club to provide AAC Research Grants. The Alliance will contribute $5,000 to future grants and provide technical support for their administration. These grants will support clean energy and other scientific endeavors in mountains and crags around the world. Grant winners provide vital knowledge about our climbing environments and enrich our understanding of environmental impacts.

NREL’s work in clean energy aligns with AAC’s long history of supporting some of the most significant mountain explorations in the world, including the 1939 summit attempt on K2, the 1963 first American summit of Everest, and the 1966 summit of Antarctica's Mt. Vinson.

In addition to providing funding, the Alliance will support the club’s research grants by participating in the grant reviews.

“We’re lucky to have a laboratory in our backyard that is leading the country in developing clean energy technology,” says Policy and Advocacy Director Maria Millard. “It’s a natural fit for such a powerhouse to fuel our research grants.”

Previous AAC research grant winners have studied snow surfaces and the formation of snow bedforms in Antarctica and Colorado, providing useful information for alpine travelers and avalanche professionals. A recent "Live your Dream" climbing grant awardee just returned from a month in Nepal where a team from Goal Zero installed solar panels in remote mountain villages.  Another grant participant examined the impact of human and climate disturbance on alpine plants, information that can inform land management decisions and backcountry travel.

The AAC Research Grant application opens on November 15 and closes on January 15. Learn more about the club’s grants program and how you can apply: americanalpineclub.org/research-grants

Ueli Steck Speaker Tour is Coming to City Near You!

The AAC is excited to announce a speaking tour with legendary speed climber Ueli Steck!

This fall the AAC is partnering with Alpina Watches to bring Ueli 'The Swiss Machine' Steck to 10 cities across the country. Ueli will present a visually stunning and interactive slideshow about his experiences climbing the world's largest mountains, setting speed records without oxygen, his daring 82 Summits Challenge and recent trip to the Himalaya.

2016 Athlete Tour Presented By:

August 10, 2016, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) Athlete Speaker Tour featuring legendary speed climber Ueli Steck, presented by Alpina Watches, will kick-off in New York City, New York on August 28 and end in Denver, Colorado, September 14.

Ueli Steck is best known for his solo speed climbs of the infamous Eiger Nordwand, the Matterhorn, and more recently, the south face of Annapurna.

The highly acclaimed “Swiss Machine" will present a visually stunning and interactive slideshow about his experiences climbing the world's largest mountains, setting speed records without oxygen, his daring 82 Summits Challenge, and recent trip to the Himalaya.    

“As climbers we test our abilities and strive to climb harder and higher within the limits of our lives, bodies and minds,” said CEO Phil Powers. “I think we all wonder what we could do with limitless time, extraordinary strength and skill and an unconstrained mind. Ueli Steck offers of glimpse of what that might look like—it's inspiring.”

"Ueli Steck embodies the Swiss sportsmanship and mountaineering values to the fullest,” said Alpina Watches CEO Guido Benedini. “Being a historic Swiss watch manufacturer, we are proud to support his AAC National Athlete Speaker Tour, which we are sure will inspire the current and young generations of Alpinists and mountain lovers.”

Tickets are currently available for all tour stops—the event is expected to sell out like the popular 2014 tour. A limited number of VIP tickets are available for purchase. VIP Gatherings take place prior to each show, and offer an intimate meet and greet with Ueli.

The Masterpoint, The Shelf, The Components: Anchor Anatomy in Action

The Masterpoint

The masterpoint of an anchor is aptly named. It is designed to be the working focal point for anchoring, belaying, and a number of auxiliary tasks that might happen while rock climbing. Much like the Master Bedroom of a house, the masterpoint is where the residents of the anchor want to be. The Masterpoint offers the most capacious, the most secure, and the most versatile operational/organizational platform available.

Recognizing and utilizing a masterpoint is often so routine for practiced climbers, it is hard to imagine connecting to an anchor in any other way. However, alternative connection options (like the anchor shelf or components) often bewilder and confuse newer climbers.  Without clear direction one way or the other, it is easy to imagine an uninformed anchor resident choosing to reside in the broom closet rather than the master bedroom.

In these sections and illustrations, we will explore why the master point is the MASTER point, variations on what a masterpoint can look like, and why and how the anchor shelf and components can be valuable connections too. Lastly, we'll examine some special cases anchors which may lack a shelf, or in some cases the actual location of the shelf might be confusing.

What is the Masterpoint?

The masterpoint is the connection point of an anchor where all the values of the anchor are optimized and consolidated. We know that the core principles in all anchor constructions have been consistently applied in climbing applications.  Those values are: Strength, Redundancy, Load Distribution, Simplicity, and Limited Extension. So, the masterpoint is the connection point where all those values are optimized and consolidated, where they all come together. Let’s look at some examples:

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The Ponytail Anchor is common.  Using a 4’ Nylon sling it creates all the values climbers have come to expect from an anchor.  It is redundant, it distributes load evenly to the components, it is strong, and it is easy to build and take apart.

The Masterpoint is where all those values come together.

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Similarly, a simple ponytail anchor with a cordellette provides a masterpoint with the effective strength of four strands of 7mm nylon cord.

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The three piece anchor that is so common in trad climbing also provides a working masterpoint.  Here, a 7mm nylon cord effectively produces a 21mm masterpoint and combines all the values needed for an effective anchor: strength, redundancy, load distribution, and simplicity.

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An 11mm static rope can be used to combine components in the terrain that may be far apart from each other. 

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Once tied off, the anchor builder has to select a knot that combines the strength of the components, and retains all the values of an effective anchor.  Here, a BHK is an ideal choice.  It creates a redundant masterpoint.

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The quad is a self-adjusting anchor system, and it is commonly applied to anchors where the direction of load changes direction.

The effective masterpoint uses three of the four strands in the nadir of anchors arc.  The fourth strand captures any carabiners or connections if one of the components were to fail.

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Similar to the quad, a 4’ nylon sling is also commonly used to create a self-adjusting anchor.

Here the masterpoint is inside the Magic X connection point, combining the effective strength of two isolated strands of the nylon sling.  The masterpoint is both strong and redundant, but the two overhand knots can be difficult to untie after heavy loads are applied to the anchor.

What is the Shelf?

The shelf is an auxiliary attachment point that has almost the same values as the Masterpoint.  Imagine it as a finished attic, relative to a Master Bedroom.  A finished attic has many of the amenities of the Master Bedroom, but it would be weird to move in to the attic and leave the Master Bedroom empty.  It would also be weird to sleep in the Master Bedroom, but dress in the attic.  In other words, the shelf is a good place to put something that might not otherwise be functional in the masterpoint.  For argument’s sake, the shelf should also present an attachment point that has redundancy, strength, and distributes load to the components.  As a result, some anchors don’t even have a shelf.  Let’s looks at some examples:

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The shelf of the anchor has the same essential properties as the masterpoint.

For the ponytail anchor with 4’ nylon sling, the shelf clips both legs of anchor above the Masterpoint

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For the cordellette ponytail anchor, there are four strands of 7mm nylon in the masterpoint.  To create that same kind of connection point, the shelf must clip both legs of the anchor above the masterpoint. 

That means that two stands of each leg effectively creates the anchor’s shelf.

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With three of four piece anchors, the shelf clips into each leg, loading three strands, just like the masterpoint.

What are the components on an anchor?

The components are the things that connect the anchor to the rock, snow, or ice.  Components can be something as simple as a tree or large vegetation. It could be a piece of removable protection, like a cam or a nut. Or, it could be a fixed anchor, like a bolt. Usually an anchor combines the strength of its components to create a masterpoint, and therefore no single component every really duplicates the values that are found at the masterpoint. A component is like a cabinet or closet, relative to the master bedroom. It would be weird to do anything more than storage in a space like that. In some cases, especially in climbing, it might be dangerous to do anything important on a single component. 

Let’s watch the masterpoint, the shelf, and the components at work. Look at how the master bedroom, the attic, and the closet are used to categorize the importance of the space according to things the climbing team places there.

The belayer is anchored to the masterpoint because the masterpoint is the master bedroom.

The belayer is anchored to the masterpoint because the masterpoint is the master bedroom.

There is no need to use the shelf because the masterpoint can hold both anchored belayer and accommodate the belay device.&nbsp; But, when the belayer starts storing things that are less vital, the shelf starts to present itself as a valuable auxili…

There is no need to use the shelf because the masterpoint can hold both anchored belayer and accommodate the belay device.  But, when the belayer starts storing things that are less vital, the shelf starts to present itself as a valuable auxiliary attachment point.

If the climbing teams needs an auxiliary attachment point that has the same values as the masterpoint, the shelf is always available. &nbsp;The backpack, for example, is not a primary resident of the anchor, but it might be heavy and have vital equi…


If the climbing teams needs an auxiliary attachment point that has the same values as the masterpoint, the shelf is always available.  The backpack, for example, is not a primary resident of the anchor, but it might be heavy and have vital equipment inside.

Finally, if there is an object that just needs to be stored somewhere for a moment, something non-vital where the load-bearing properties and the security of the attachment are irrelevant, a single component acts like cabinet or a closet.&nbsp; It s…

Finally, if there is an object that just needs to be stored somewhere for a moment, something non-vital where the load-bearing properties and the security of the attachment are irrelevant, a single component acts like cabinet or a closet.  It stores something small, temporarily.

Tricks, Traps, and Conundrums with Masterpoints and Shelves

Many anchors don’t have a shelf and it takes a clear headed understanding about what a masterpoint and shelf are, and what they are for, to sort out which anchors have a shelf and which do not. Let’s have a look at a few examples.

Many Toprope anchors that are built with a static rope effectively do not have a shelf.

Many Toprope anchors that are built with a static rope effectively do not have a shelf.

Looking closer, it is clear that clipping above the BHK on this anchor does not have the same material redundancy as the BHK itself.

Looking closer, it is clear that clipping above the BHK on this anchor does not have the same material redundancy as the BHK itself.

Similarly, when the cordellette is untied and the anchor is configured by working the cordellette from end to end, the shelf cannot have the same qualities as the masterpoint.

Similarly, when the cordellette is untied and the anchor is configured by working the cordellette from end to end, the shelf cannot have the same qualities as the masterpoint.

This anchor effectively has no shelf.

This anchor effectively has no shelf.

A monolithic anchor easily deceives the eye when a climber tries to clip the shelf in the same manner as they may be accustomed to while using three piece anchors.

A monolithic anchor easily deceives the eye when a climber tries to clip the shelf in the same manner as they may be accustomed to while using three piece anchors.

The climber accustomed to simply grabbing two strands may not be clipping the shelf. &nbsp;It might be a false shelf.

The climber accustomed to simply grabbing two strands may not be clipping the shelf.  It might be a false shelf.

In profile, it becomes clear that the false shelf is only connecting to one of the two strands.

In profile, it becomes clear that the false shelf is only connecting to one of the two strands.

The actual shelf on a monolithic anchor looks like this.

The actual shelf on a monolithic anchor looks like this.

Self Adjusting anchors like the Magic X with Load Limiting Knots or the Quad, don’t really have a shelf.&nbsp; The Magic X only offers one point that boasts material redundancy and loads the components equally through a range of motion.

Self Adjusting anchors like the Magic X with Load Limiting Knots or the Quad, don’t really have a shelf.  The Magic X only offers one point that boasts material redundancy and loads the components equally through a range of motion.

The Quad, by comparison, offers four strands of material that hang between the load-limiting knots.&nbsp; Which means that there are few options to designate a masterpoint. Using three strands as the effective masterpoint offers optimal strength (lo…

The Quad, by comparison, offers four strands of material that hang between the load-limiting knots.  Which means that there are few options to designate a masterpoint. Using three strands as the effective masterpoint offers optimal strength (loading three strand of cordellette at all times) and the remaining strand creates redundancy behind the load limiting knots.  But, clipping three strands effectively negates the opportunity to use an anchor shelf.  There is no other point on the anchor that has the same self-adjustment and load-bearing strength as those three strands of cordellette.

Instead, clipping two stands of the Quad offers two connection points that have identical strength, self-adjustment, and redundancy properties.

Instead, clipping two stands of the Quad offers two connection points that have identical strength, self-adjustment, and redundancy properties.

A sport climbing anchor, commonly just a pairing of quickdraws, also has a masterpoint that is difficult to identify.

A sport climbing anchor, commonly just a pairing of quickdraws, also has a masterpoint that is difficult to identify.

Clipping into both carabiners right alongside the rope is effectively the masterpoint of a sport anchor. &nbsp;Luckily, sport climbing rarely necessitates the use of a masterpoint.

Clipping into both carabiners right alongside the rope is effectively the masterpoint of a sport anchor.  Luckily, sport climbing rarely necessitates the use of a masterpoint.

Forest Service Eases Access for Groups

The next generation climbing on our public lands. Photo credit: AAC's Ron Funderburke

The next generation climbing on our public lands. Photo credit: AAC's Ron Funderburke

Our national forests provide awe and inspiration for millions of climbers. Their vertical playgrounds capture our spirit of adventure and challenge us to dig deep for our best selves. Today, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack and U.S. Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell announced that they will make it easier for outfitters, guides, schools and non-profits to take groups into our national forests. This announcement begins an important turning point in climbing access. Historically, individuals and organizations that teach climbing have faced challenges in obtaining permits from the USFS. They are often subject to significant fees, commercial use authorizations, and other requirements. The American Alpine Club has long been advocating for reforming the system.

The education and mentorship provided by guides, outdoor leaders and instructors are critical for the development of competent climbers who travel light on the land. We believe that individuals and organizations that teach climbing should have easy access to the land they need for classes. Doing so will lead to a greater appreciation for public lands and will help cultivate the next generation of stewards.  “We need to be active in meeting a changing population of climbers and other visitors to our National Forests. Good instruction gives people the skills for a lifetime of enjoyment they can pursue safely and with the knowledge to care for the land we all love,” says Phil Powers, AAC CEO.

The Forest Service states that its new, streamlined approach to special-use permitting will be implemented over time and will make it easier and faster to receive or renew permits. Steps being taken include:

  • Increasing consistency in the permit process across the country.

  • Increasing use of allowable waivers when a special use permit is not required.

  • Investing in technology, including an electronic permit application process.

However, sufficient funding is critical to making it happen. Without the resources to implement these steps, land managers won’t have the capacity to process new permits. Budget cuts on top of the growing costs of fighting wildfire has come at the expense of the staff who administers permits. We still need Congress to pass a real budget fix. A fire funding solution will help ensure that the USFS will be able to welcome those who want to learn how to climb through instruction on public lands.  We take our responsibility for caring for these lands seriously and we applaud the Forest Service’s efforts. 

Past President Nick Clinch Passes Away

Nick and his books at his home library. Photo: Clinch Collection

Nick and his books at his home library. Photo: Clinch Collection

Past president and legendary expedition leader Nick Clinch has passed away today at the age of 85. Beyond Clinch's important role in the history of American mountaineering, his devotion to the AAC helped the Club thrive over the 62 years of his membership. He was a driving force behind the Club's library and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch.

“Nick certainly contributed much to climbing in America. He was a brilliant expedition leader and a wonderful diplomat. But I think most of his contributions were behind the scenes,” said CEO Phil Powers. “He was always there with the counsel to get us through the hard decisions. I have benefitted from knowing a number of the great men on whose shoulders we stand as climbers today—but I’ll miss none more than Nick.”

Nick, thank you for everything you did for the Club and climbing.

Read more about Nick's many accomplishments: http://bit.ly/24RSeqH

Nick Clinch and team on Hidden Peak.&nbsp;Photo: Andrew Kauffman Collection

Nick Clinch and team on Hidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Kauffman Collection

AAMEE team back at McMurdo (left to right) Standing: Evans, Wahlstrom, Clinch, Corbet, Schoening. Kneeling: Hollister, Silverstein, Marts, Long, Fukushima. Photo: 1966 AAME team

AAMEE team back at McMurdo (left to right) Standing: Evans, Wahlstrom, Clinch, Corbet, Schoening. Kneeling: Hollister, Silverstein, Marts, Long, Fukushima. Photo: 1966 AAME team

American Alpine Club past president Nicholas Bayard Clinch (b. 1930) passed away today, June 15, 2016 in Palo Alto, California.

Clinch is regarded as one of America's most successful expedition leaders. He is the only American to have led the first ascent of an 8,000 meter peak: Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I, 26,470 feet) in 1958. He also led the first ascent of the notorious and beautiful Masherbrum (25,660 feet) in 1960 and Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, along with the other major summits of the Vinson Massif in 1966. Clinch Peak (15,883 ft) was named in his honor in 2006.

Clinch’s account of the 1958 Hidden Peak expedition was published as the book A Walk in the Sky in 1982. Nick also published Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia with his wife Elizabeth Clinch in 2011.

His explorations have included numerous ascents in the United States, the British Columbia Coast Range, Peru and China. He also introduced the ice screw into North American climbing usage. For his extraordinary services to mountaineering Clinch was made a Fellow of the prestigious Explorers Club in 1969 and later elected to Honorary Membership in The Alpine Club [London]. In 2013 he was inducted into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence for both his achievements on and off the mountain by the American Mountaineering Museum. He is an honorary member of the American Alpine Club and has received the Heilprin Award for service to the Club and the rarely granted President’s Gold Medal—twice.

Beyond Clinch's important role in the history of American mountaineering, his devotion to the AAC helped the Club thrive over the 62 years of his membership. Nick served as Club president from 1968 to 1970 and afterwards he served one term (1971-1973) as treasurer. He has been instrumental in the growth of the AAC Library, and a major contributor to the Central Asia collection. In 1971 Nick worked tirelessly with Leigh Ortenberg and NPS Director Horace Albright to establish the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch.

He was a student of climbing history and a prolific book collector with, as he often said, “the discrimination of a vacuum cleaner,” according to AAC CEO Phil Powers. His collection resides at the American Alpine Club Library in Golden, Colorado.

“Nick certainly contributed much to climbing in America. He was a brilliant expedition leader and a wonderful diplomat. But I think most of his contributions were behind the scenes,” said Powers. “He was always there with the counsel to get us through the hard decisions. I have benefitted from knowing a number of the great men on whose shoulders we stand as climbers today—but I’ll miss none more than Nick.”

Between expeditions and playing a strong and ongoing leadership role in support of AAC, Clinch was a long-time Executive Director of the Sierra Club Foundation and an early board member at REI.