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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

Watermelon Snow: Blooming in Alpine Ecosystems

The piece below is courtesy of the National Renewable Energy Lab (NREL). You can view the .pdf here. You can also learn more about the Research Grants we offer that enabled this project, and start dreaming up your own.

High up in the alpine, above the tree line where the air is thin and the sun is bright, the seemingly inhospitable alpine ecosystem supports an incredible range of native species including mountain goats, marmots, and pikas. Nestled beneath our climbing boots and the crunch of the fallen alpine snow lives another world of microscopic treasures like arthropods, fungi, bacteria, and algae.

To 2017 American Alpine Club (AAC) research grant recipient Rachael Mallon, the fragile yet resilient ecosystems of the alpine environment drive her curiosity and passion for scientific discovery and climbing. While studying biology at the University of Puget Sound, Rachael spent two summers hiking on glaciers throughout the Pacific Northwest, researching the phylogeography and ecology of ice worms.

"I love the solitude of the alpine environment and the crazy swings between the seasons," Rachael said. "At the same time, I respect how harsh the environment is and how creatures—great and small—survive and shape the alpine ecosystem."

Today, Rachael researches snow algae in the Cascade Mountain Range while pursuing a master's degree in biology at Western Washington University. AAC's research grant helped fund her research on the changes in snow algae communities by geographic location.

The Secret Life of Snow Algae

Dormant in the winter, snow algae are invisible to the naked eye until spring when increased levels of light and water stimulate growth. Algae practice photosynthesis—turning sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water into oxygen and chemical energy in the form of sugar—until they grow into a massive "bloom" of algal biomass. Watermelon-colored pigmentation is a characteristic of the bloom. This results in a wavy sea of pink-colored snow sloping up through the tundra.

Like human sunscreen, the pigmentation allows snow algae to withstand the intense ultraviolet rays from the sun at that elevation. The watermelon pigment serves another purpose, increasing the snow algae's preferred habitat for photosynthesis—water. Like wearing a black t-shirt on a hot sunny day, the darker-colored snow absorbs the sun's rays, increasing the amount of liquid water.

"The beauty of the snow algae is its ability to engineer an ecosystem and nourish other tiny alpine creatures," says Rachael. "Through photosynthesis the algae create sugar, which is also a food source for the ice worms, fungi, and bacteria."

What Makes Rachael's Research Different

Previous research of snow algae communities shows that watermelon snow harbors 2–40 species of algae. Although snow algae are found on every continent, research to address changes in these algal communities by geographic location has been limited. Rachael's research tracks snow algae communities in the Cascades to see how they differ based on where they live.

"My research will be the first comprehensive snow microbe biodiversity study across the whole Cascade mountain range," said Rachael.

On each peak, she would collect two to eight samples from different locations and record information like latitude and longitude, quality of the snow, elevation, and aspect of the slope. Back at the lab, the snow algae samples undergo DNA extraction and then molecular analysis. A component of the snow algae DNA helps determine which species of snow algae it is. After analyzing the field and DNA data, Rachael will be able to describe how snow algae communities vary throughout the Pacific Northwest, including how these communities change with respect to time and altitude.

The Impact of Snow Algae Research and the AAC Research Grant

Ironically, the way that snow algae survives intense solar radiation creates a biofeedback loop causing glacial snow to melt even faster.

"A recent study on the Harding Icefield in Alaska found that snow algae can increase the amount of melting by four times the amount that white snow would," Rachael said. "Currently, snow algae impact on glacial snow melt within climate change models is not taken into consideration. If we don't consider snow algae in the bigger picture of glacial melting within these models, then we aren't getting the full story how glaciers are impacted over time."

With the help of an American Alpine Club Research Grant, Rachael was able to continue her study of these tiny treasures and their influence on the ecosystem. "It's inspiring to me for a community like the AAC to use a portion of their dues to fund alpine research. I’m so grateful that the AAC is supporting scientists who work to understand and preserve the climbing areas that we care about."

Climbers as Citizen Scientists

There are several ways AAC members and outdoor enthusiasts can assist with data collection while doing what they love. The Living Snow Project, at Western Washington University's Kodner Lab, involves the outdoor recreation community as "citizen scientists" in research exploring the biodiversity of alpine snow ecosystems. If you find yourself climbing in the north and central Cascades, the process of collecting snow algae is simple and fun:

• Sign up to volunteer
• Receive a sample kit
• Collect pink or watermelon snow on your next trip
• Note the GPS coordinates
• Send the sample back in the mail

Secretary Zinke Releases Interim Report on Bears Ears

June 12, 2017: This afternoon, Secretary Zinke released his interim report on Bears Ears National Monument. Despite overwhelming public support to keep Bears Ears as designated, his recommendations include a reduction to the size of the monument. 

Read our joint statement with Outdoor Alliance here.

 

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20,000 Members Strong

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We’re proud to celebrate the 20,000 milestone this month. If we could sit around a campfire swapping stories with every single one of you, we would. Together, we accomplish more. We defend wild places. We develop and teach safe climbing standards. We host events that welcome new climbers into our fold. Below, meet 20 of your fellow members. We asked them to tell us about their motivations and dreams, and their responses give us a peek into the wonderful and diverse community we've become

Alee Russell

What would your perfect climb look like?

A 5.9 multi-pitch route in a remote area of the world with some of the best people I've ever met.

What do you look for in a climbing partner/mentor?

Someone who is driven as well as encouraging. Someone who doesn't take things too seriously. Someone who believes in me and allows me to believe in them.

Where did you learn to climb how did that influence you?

Carder Rock in Great Falls, Virginia and the Sport Rock Climbing team... but where I really fell in love with climbing was Vietnam. I worked as a guide for Asia Outdoors (formerly Slo Pony Adventures). The job gave me exposure to people who really loved this weird sport. It got me outside and it got me scared and elated and amazed. We bonded as a team in a way I've never experienced before. I've been chasing that feeling and that experience ever since. Nothing will ever measure up and maybe that's ok.

Alex Wildman

Why are you an AAC member?

Being an AAC member lets me connect to climbing on a larger level. My membership supports grants that help others live their dreams and provides countless opportunities to meet climbers from all over the globe. Most importantly, I get to be part of a national voice that speaks out on behalf of climbers. Together we’re stronger— I believe deeply in this.

What has climbing taught you about life?

Life is full of adversity, climbing teaches you how to deal with it.

What is one way you give back to the climbing community?

I’m proud to be part of the Philadelphia Chapter of The American Alpine Club. We have been putting on fun events aiming to connecting climbers in our area. While the pursuit of climbing is individual, we are all supported by the bedrock of our passionate community. I have so much love for the climbing community.

Ash Gambhir

Why do you climb?

I grew up reading about the adventures of explorers such as Roald Amundsen, Sir Edmund Hillary and Reinhold Messner. Along with the spirit of exploration and adventure, I have always had an immense love and admiration for nature and the outdoors, especially rocks, mountains, snow, and ice. Climbing is the one activity where my love for adventure and exploration combines with my love for the outdoors. To me, climbing is both a mental and spiritual rejuvenation session, as well as a physical challenge. It is a medium that provides self-actualization and makes me want to be a better version of myself, which is why I climb.

How has the AAC changed since you became a member?

When I became an AAC member, there was a no San Diego chapter. Since then, I think AAC has worked very hard to create more engagement opportunities for new and experienced climbers. There has been a strong push to develop and promote regional chapters, which are in turn putting together various events in their respective regions. The AAC Live Your Dream Grant also helped encourage and promote climbing, and I’ve noticed more AAC conservation efforts and partnerships.

What’s one way you give back to the climbing community?

I give back to the climbing community by encouraging, coaching, and climbing with people who are passionate and aspire to learn about various forms of climbing. I do this with our chapter clinics, the Heroes Project, and Outdoor Outreach. In the San Diego chapter, we teach the Gym to Crag, Intro to Trad Climbing, and Intro to Ice Climbing clinics. The Heroes Project empowers injured war veterans through physical and emotional training with expedition level climbs, and Outdoor Outreach provides an avenue for underprivileged youth get outside and learn about climbing.

Chris Warner

Why are you an AAC Member?

I am a big believer in partnerships. Not only does the AAC celebrate climbing partnerships, it is also a critical member of a bigger community: the outdoor industry. By being a member of the AAC the needs of my climbing partners and I can be amplified. It is critical that climbers are partnering with all the groups out there that can have a direct impact on our sport.

Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?

I learned to climb in New Jersey. And if you can climb there then you, too, can climb K2 (or Everest or the Matterhorn or Alpamayo).

What's one way you give back to the climbing community?

Well, I am pretty lucky as I founded a guide service then a climbing gym company. Earth Treks has not only taught hundreds of thousands of people to climb (filling their souls with all the goodness of climbing), but we've used the power of our community to fund various non-profits and other super cool initiatives. We've raised over one million dollars for cancer research and crusaders, as well as hundreds of thousands for non-profits like Big City Mountaineers, Paradox Sports, the AAC, and the Access Fund.

Justin Forrest Parks

What has climbing taught you about life?

Climbing has taught me that you are forever going to fall; no matter if you are a new climber whose arms are pumped on a 5.6 or a pro climber projecting her 5.15 route, no matter if you are the youngest or oldest, slowest or fastest at what you do in life, no matter how famous, successful, or perfect you seem to be, you are going to fall sometimes.

Climbing has taught me to welcome the challenge of getting back up, accept the imperfections and try again. You must be gracious with yourself, listening to your body and your mind. With every step we take, every crux we encounter, every decision we must make, we must move forward. Progress at your own pace but always keep falling, getting back up, and moving forward.

Where did you learn to climb and what has that taught you?

As a Midwestern climber I initially learned to climb at Devils Lake in Wisconsin but the majority of my climbing throughout the years has taken place at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. I was born and raised in Chicago and surrounded by metal mountains, unfortunately my access to wild spaces was a bit limited. Midwestern climbers are Weekend Warriors, sometimes traveling seven or eight hours to climb for a day and a half. These trips to Devils Lake or the Red River Gorge taught me to find climbing partners who liked to be silly, try hard, and laugh a lot. They also taught me to enjoy every route that I climbed and enjoy my surroundings even when conditions were bad or the trip wasn't going the way I'd planned.

Never take your ability to climb or your access to the crag for granted. We are so lucky to live the lives we lead.

What’s one thing you do to give back to the climbing community?

I've made it my mission to bridge two communities that are very special to me; my rock climbing community and the culturally rich and wonderfully diverse community that I've inherited as an African American and person of color. Most recently I've been working on creating welcoming and accessible opportunities for communities of color to engage in climbing. I've also been using my background in film and photography as a way to help craft narratives that empower women and people of color in backcountry.

We are stronger together and must continue to seek to understand each other. Look for similarities between your brothers and sisters and celebrate the differences.

Daun Stansfield Everforrest

What has climbing taught you about life?

I started climbing late in my life... I was 44 and took a course with my 18-year-old daughter. We were hooked and spent every free moment on the rocks together. At age 58 I was diagnosed with a rare and aggressive form of breast cancer. I underwent 35 rounds of chemotherapy and a complete mastectomy. I was unable to climb for almost 2 years. After healing from surgery and getting some strength back I began climbing with a group of young women who were interested in overcoming a fear of lead climbing. something I had battled with myself. I took to the gym with enthusiasm but was confronted with a "new normal" for my body and my mind. My body had changed post-surgery and in my mind I was no longer invincible... the cancer had brought new visitors into my consciousness: doubt, fear, caution. But I was patient with my body and my mind, with the help of friends, I climbed, got scared and climbed through my fear. I learned to adapt to the physical changes cancer had brought to my body and adjusted. If Tommy Caldwell could do it with a missing finger I could do it without my b**bs! So climbing has taught me to meet and accept my fears, the changes in body and mind that life brings. It has brought me an inner strength that nothing else could. Someday I am hoping to share this with other breast cancer patients.... women on the rocks, using their bodies in powerful ways that they thought they never could again.

What do you look for in a partner?

A sense of humor. Definitely a must on the long alpine routes!

What is one way you give back to the climbing community?

Mostly donations to AAC and Access Fund. I hope to organize a Breast Cancer Climbing organization to support women stretching their boundaries and facing fear.

Keenan Griscom

Why are you an AAC member?

Initially because I had to be to compete in the UIAA Youth World Cup last year, but I feel like the club is very important for all climbers to be a part of since they work so hard for climbers, protecting all types of climbing and climbing areas. As a young climber I am very grateful that they are actively protecting all the types of climbing and all the places that I climb at and in doing so, will make it possible for me to continue to climb as I get older. Plus, the AAC donates poop bags all over the place and that is awesome!

What does your perfect climb look like?

It starts in the early morning, driving up to go climbing with trustworthy, skilled, good friends that know what they are doing. Going up the wall swapping leads, on pitches that are just above our comfortable onsight level, then summiting and looking out over the valley and seeing the car as a little dot in the forest.

What do you look for in a climbing partner?

I look for a person who knows the ropes and is a good person to hang out with. A climbing partner should be willing to wake up early and go climbing for the whole day, going out in the cold to ice climb, suffering through a difficult route and laughing about if afterward. I am very lucky to have such a cool mentor for climbing who is also my dad, so I was privileged enough to learn at a very young age and have someone who I am very close with to teach me and climb with. Having my dad teach me to climb is truly amazing. I am able to grow in the coolest sport with my dad and it has made us a lot closer. 

What's one way you give back to the climbing community?

I share my excitement and psyche for climbing whenever I can. I always clean up the crags, leaving them better than when we got there. I pack out my poop! 

Kevin Capps

Why are you an AAC member?

I remember the first time I went to Jackson Hole to climb The Grand with my family. We stayed at the AAC Climber's Lodge, and ended up spending most of the time in the library reading old climbing magazines, and being inspired by old trip reports from the 70's. I realized that there was a vast amount of history in climbing, and now I realize it is important to protect that history, as well as the climbing areas that we climb at in our everyday lives. The AAC plays an important role in doing that and it is why it's important to donate our time and money to this organization.

Where did you learn to climb and how did that influence you?

Being from St Louis, I learned to climb in Southern Illinois and Arkansas, mostly as a way to enjoy nature and get away from the city. The lush forests in the midwest will always have a special place in my heart. Learning to climb in the midwest has taught me a lot, like how to build fires in the rain... but also that these climbing areas are finite and they may not be around forever. We had only a couple areas to climb, legally, and we cherished those areas and took care of them as best as we could.

What's one way you give back to the climbing community?

As the owner of a rock climbing guide service, Denver Mountain Guiding, I feel that it is my responsibility to teach people about all aspects of climbing, from how to belay to picking up trash. It is the stewardship that is going to make climbing sustainable here on the Front Range of Colorado. I am also able to donate my time though volunteering my time guiding for the AAC.

Len Necefer

Why are you an AAC member?

I am a member of AAC because of their support for conservation, advocacy, education, and research. The more we educate ourselves about the broader context of climbing, the better we can better protect and conserve the places we care about. My membership allows me to apply my Ph.D. toward my passion.

Why do you climb?

I climb for mental clarity, challenge, teamwork, and connection to place and the environment. Climbing allows me to sharpen my mind for the work that I do during the day.

What is one way you give back to the climbing community?

American Indians & climbers have had significant conflict over climbing of sacred landmarks in historical territories of the tribe. These conflicts still exist today and many have yet to be resolved. I am a climber and I am from the Navajo Nation. I see these identities as an opportunity to use my membership is to advocate for a climbing practices and cultures that respects these sacred areas. I believe that taking steps to actively engage with resolving these historical conflicts are now more important than ever. The current threats to public lands climbers and tribes find themselves on the same side of protecting areas that are rich in climbing and cultural heritage. I believe that it is an opportunity to build bridges.

Lindsay Hastings

Why are you an AAC member?

I am a proud member of the American Alpine Club because of the wide range of opportunities it provides for climbers and adventurers. Whether it’s sharing your epic climbing photos in the annual Guidebook to Membership, receiving a little extra funding for your climbing expeditions through the Live Your Dream grant, climbing and partying alongside your favorite pros at the Craggin’ Classic events, or snagging discounts on that new Patagonia puffy, The AAC has something for climbers of all skill levels. (Plus, my mom was thrilled about the $12,500 rescue coverage.)

Why do you climb?

Growing up as an awkward and introverted person, I was always afraid to try new things, push myself out of my comfort zone, and especially meet new people. Rock climbing has become an outlet for me to do all of those things at once while taking me to places I never thought were possible. After years of feeling out of place and like I don't belong, I finally feel like I've found "my people", and I have never been happier. I love how a quick exchange of words at the gym can turn into a lifelong climbing partner. The fantastic friendships I've made, the incredibly beautiful places I've traveled, and the newfound confidence I have will stay with me my entire life and that is why I love climbing!

Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?

I learned to rock climb in Minnesota, where there isn't a huge climbing community and there aren't a whole lot of places to go climbing outdoors (not near Minneapolis, anyways). Despite that, I had a solid group of coworkers who would take me climbing outdoors about once a week and show me the ropes. Two months after stepping into my first pair of climbing shoes, I said goodbye to everything and everyone I had known my entire life and moved out West where the climbing possibilities are endless. Learning to climb in the Midwest really made me appreciate the incredible access we have to the outdoors and the climbing community out West!

Erin Lynch

Why are you an AAC member?

I'm an AAC member because I love the community. I love getting together with other climbers who feel most at home in the outdoors. I love hearing about others' experiences and passions. And I truly appreciate the spaces that the AAC offers for us to connect and learn together to be safe and responsible climbers. (Also, the rescue insurance.)

What has climbing taught you about life?

Climbing has shown me that there's more than one way to approach or solve a problem, and that everyone has something valuable to teach and to share, no matter their experience or level of expertise.

What do you look for in a climbing partner?

The trifecta: a delicate balance of patience, encouragement, and goading (used sparingly, when I'm being a weenie). Also, I think that the best partner is someone that you share goals with, someone who understands and accepts both your personal limits and their own, and of course, someone that always shows up when they say they will.

Forest Altherr

Why are you an AAC member?

Community, education, and inspiration are the three main reasons I have been an AAC member for the past five years. I feel more connected to the group by attending meetups, stewardship events, and through digital connections with other members promoted by the AAC. The Alpine Club promotes my intellectual development as a climber with the publication Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and with educational campaigns to develop universal standards in climbing systems to promote safety throughout our community. I derive inspiration from the stories in the AAJ and the opportunity to dream up big objectives through the grant opportunities offered by the club.

Why do you climb?

The quiet moments in the sun on a belay ledge looking over the endless utopia of the Canyonlands. The taste of a burger in my greasy palms at the Mobil after a day of pinching granite knobs and splashing through swimming holes in the Tuolumne river. Sipping a beer on the bumper of a friend’s car in the parking lot of the Tennessee Wall while she regales us with comical anecdotes of her misadventures. Looking back at my belayer who smiles and pays out slack, feeling the reliance on one another before tiptoeing up a delicate pitch on El Capitan. Because I know that I get one life to experience and I want to take as much of the world in as possible while am here. I want to breathe life into every moment. For these moments and thousands of others, that is why I climb.

What do you look for in a partner?

I like to climb with everyone because each person has something new to teach me. Learning does not require that another climber be stronger or more experienced than me. Strong partnerships provide great opportunities for growth, but I also cherish the times with less seasoned climbers who get a radiant thrill from the experience and remind me of why I climb in the first place. The optimal climbing partner is someone whose stoke gets me excited to push past my comfort zone and whose charisma inspires presence in every infinite detail of the process.

Graham Zimmerman

Why are you an AAC member?

I see community as one of the most important and value parts of climbing. It allows us to share inspiration and knowledge, to find likeminded partners and to try hard in remote places knowing that we are not alone in our pursuit of the vertical. The AAC is our community organization in the US and they do a great job of filling that role. That is why I am a member.

Why do you climb?

I see any given route as a culmination of experience, physical training, exploration and mental preparation. Whether on an unclimbed alpine face in the Karakoram, an overhanging mixed route in Canada or a splitter in Yosemite it is the moments of calm composure in challenging terrain, when all of those four elements come together, that keep me coming back and keep me psyched.

What has climbing taught you about life?

At this point I have spent more time climbing than doing just about anything else in life. And in turn pretty much everything in life has turned into an analog of climbing... Big work contracts are just big expeditions, relationships are partnerships, long hard days of work are long days in the alpine... and to be honest, that perspective has worked our pretty well. So you might say, climbing has taught me much of what I know.

Alina Zagaytova

How has the AAC changed since you became a member?

I appreciate that AAC has been focusing more on education and diversity of its members. Responding to policy issues of the day, such as national parks has also been a great undertaking I have seen AAC pursue successfully.

Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?

I began learning rock climbing from the AAC Section Chair in Washington DC and it grew from there to eventually submitting the Seven Summits. The continued support of the AAC and its members has inspired me, guided me, and helped me achieve my goals.

What’s one way you give back to the climbing community?

I volunteer as the social chair for the Washington DC Section, organizing events for AAC members and helping to have AAC presence in the local community.  I enjoy giving back to the climbing community what AAC has given me as a climber.

Jacob Raab

Why are you an AAC member?

I used to just say "rescue insurance" when people asked this question and leave it at that, but in the last couple of years I've gotten to know so many amazing people and formed so many strong friendships and partnerships through the AAC and the climbing community that you could completely take away all of the rescue benefits (but please don't!) and I wouldn't even give the slightest consideration to cancelling my membership in what has become almost like a family to me.

What does your ideal climb look like?

One pitch of WI2-3 hero ice straight out of the parking lot, then a few miles of dry, runnable slot canyon dead-ending in a 20m-long stem chimney which leads to some 4th-class scrambling to gain a long, 5.6 knifeblade ridge to a striking summit in the middle of nowhere- all fast and light, solo. Since I'm dreaming, it'd be great to have a martini waiting for me at the top...

Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?

I learned basic climbing movement at my home gym back in the flatlands (shout-out to Climb Time Indy!), and a lot of my early outdoor experience with gear and rope systems came on a few early trips to the red rock country of the American Southwest, but I consider the Cascades to be my home range. I'm definitely of a firm belief that the Cascades are home to some of the best alpine training ground in the U.S., and I never would have felt confident venturing into the big mountains elsewhere or into vertical ice climbing without a few seasons’ worth of experience on those peaks.

Naz Ahmed

Why are you an AAC member?

I joined in 2008 at the Mount Washington Valley ice festival because I saw how the AAC brings climbers together. The club promotes both aspiring climbers and helps the truly dedicated full-time climber. Through the club, I’ve gotten to the 2012 Yosemite Valley International Climber's Meet, won a Live Your Dream Grant to climb Denali in 2015, and was part of the AAC delegation to the 2015 Alpine Club of Iran and Armenia exchange in the Caucuses. Besides rubbing elbows with legends like Lynn Hill, Mark Twight, and Fred Beckey at AAC social events like the Annual Dinner, the club has connected me with some truly wonderful people to share a rope and draw squiggly lines with in backcountry powder.

What do you look for in a climbing partner?

Fun. Someone who loves traditional climbing, doesn’t mind long approaches, likes ice climbing, and would consider a full on hard mountaineering objective, complete with a ski approach, technical rock and ice climbing, and a technical ski descent. I love climbing with both men and women for different reasons. Women for the sisterhood, men for the different qualities they bring to the partnership. I also love climbing with beginners, because they remind me of that self-discovery and enthusiasm for climbing. It helps me refresh why I started climbing and to keep setting new goals.

What’s one thing you do to give back to the climbing community?

How about two? I’m on the board of directors and am a volunteer expedition guide for Ascend: Leadership Through Athletics, a US-based non-profit that empowers Afghan women through mountaineering. Their stories are incredibly inspiring for anyone who has lived through circumstances beyond their control and how they persist in creating a better community and better connection to each other. I also lead REI’s Outdoor Programs for the co-op Sierra market. My amazing team of 25 guides host classes and experiences to help people obtain the knowledge and skills to get outside responsibly and confidently. We also partner with nonprofits and like-minded groups to grow the outdoor community and support creating access to public lands for climbing, hiking, and other human-powered adventures.

Rachel Hess

Why are you an AAC member?

I am an AAC member so I can meet more climbing partners, advance my techniques, and climb with like-minded individuals.

Why do you climb?

I climb for the mental and physical experience it offers me. When I am on the rock life slows down and I feel at peace. I become more aware of myself and focused on the present. Through each climbing session I discover more about myself: how I react to failure, how I act during a difficult section, and how I can improve myself in this process. Climbing has helped me cope through the time of my mother's sickness and passing. Routes made sense, they were problems I could solve, and cancer I could not. Contorting my body in different ways, being creative, & ascending a problem through specific movements is fascinating to me. Some routes demand grace and others demand strength. My favorite aspect of rock climbing is being able to constantly challenge myself mentally and physically in order to reach my goals. Every route has something to teach. The motto is to always challenge yourself in order to grow and become the best and most versatile version of yourself.

How has the AAC changed since you became a member?

The AAC has noticeably become even more involved in protecting climbing landscapes. As times call for more environmental protection and advocacy, the AAC adapts and takes action. They have also become one of the best resources for climbing education and safety.

Richard McMurtrey

Why are you an AAC member?

The AAC is an incredible resource for every outdoor activity, from climbing education and current events to lodging, gear discounts, trip planning, and meeting new friends.

Why do you climb?

Nowhere have the chasms of my mind been more opened, challenged, and fulfilled than in silent suspension between earth and atmosphere on the mountains, cliffs, and glaciers that nature provides us to explore. Like Thoreau, I want to live deep and learn what life has to teach, and whether it proves to be mean or sublime, I want to know it by experience.

What would your perfect climb look like? 

I used to think that the most beautiful climbs were perfectly aesthetic overhanging lines where there were just enough holds that the climb was barely possible for me. Now I am more fascinated by alpine climbs where harsh conditions, fractured rock and ice, and exhaustion can play just as much of a role as the climbing itself, and where epic experiences are a sort of indescribable reward. As I have gained more experience and as I keep hoping for more free time, I have come to really love and appreciate every climbing experience, from simple bouldering excursions to incredible alpine adventures.

Savannah Buik*

Why are you an AAC member?

I started out as an AAC member as a way to give back to the community. As I matured and gained more experience climbing, I recognized the value of my membership meant a lot more than just a way to donate my time and energy. I have continued to stay a member because the AAC brings the community together as we all have similar passions to be outside. The community aspect is particularly pertinent due to the current access issues we're facing in the US; furthermore, a community, such as one fostered by the AAC, strengthens the voice we have to ensure not only we can climb on these lands but so can generations to come.

Why do you climb?

I climb because I have a way to feel when I can’t feel. I've dealt with some form of mental illness for the past decade, and when my bipolar or eating disorder leave me feeling numb, I divert to climbing to help me experience ALL emotions: happiness, anger, frustration, sadness, excitement. Climbing helps me express an infinite amount of emotions, but all of the emotions combine to make me feel whole again. Climbing helps me feel the emotions that cease to exist with anything else I partake in. Climbing is my way of feeling.

Where did you learn to climb and how did that influence you?

I learned to climb in a gym when I was fifteen years old. Originally I played soccer, but one too many concussions later left me yearning for a new passion since contact sports were said and done. I found myself outside after six months of climbing in the gym, and this was when I knew climbing would stick with me for my lifetime. Although my passion for climbing is outside, learning to climb in a gym has given me an appreciation for the limited opportunities I get to be outside since I live in Chicago. In addition, it has inspired me to hopefully inspire others to get outside and learn to love something that genuinely can always get you outside of your comfort zone.

*In March of 2018, Savannah passed away in a climbing accident. She is dearly missed by AAC staff, friends, and the climbing community. Read more.

Carl Anthony Yeary

Why do you climb?

I climb because it is my passion. It is not what I do, but who I am. It has defined me since 1972. Climbing has taken me to places I would never have gone otherwise, not just physically, but emotionally, spiritually and mentally. Climbing strips away the interference and forces you to focus on the moment; to live in the present with commitment and passion not often found or required in life outside of the vertical world.

What has climbing taught you about life?

Climbing has taught me that life takes practice, patience and perseverance; and even then, success is not guaranteed. I believe it's not about how many climbs you've done, but how you did those climbs. So too in life; it's not just about being alive, but living with passion and integrity.

How has the AAC changed since you became a member?

The AAC has noticeably become even more involved in protecting climbing landscapes. As times call for more environmental protection and advocacy, the AAC adapts and takes action. They have also become one of the best resources for climbing education and safety.

Nick Clinch to be Celebrated at Memorial this June 16

Nick Clinch in his library. 

Nick Clinch in his library. 

A memorial will be held for Nicholas B. Clinch on Friday, June 16 at 8:00 P.M. at the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch. 

Nick Clinch (1930–2016) was president of the American Alpine Club from 1968–1970, and was the founder of the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch, which first opened in 1970. Mr. Clinch last visited Grand Teton National Park in August, 2010, when he was the guest of honor and principal speaker at the 40 anniversary celebration of the the Climbers’ Ranch. 

You are welcome to come join us; learn more about Nick and the event here. 

Nick Clinch (center, standing) and team at McMurdo, 1966. 

Nick Clinch (center, standing) and team at McMurdo, 1966. 

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2017 Live Your Dream Grant Recipients Announced

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The American Alpine Club and The North Face are proud to announce the recipients of 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $70,000 was awarded to 144 individuals from across the nation, making 2017 the most successful year in the history of the Live Your Dream grant program. Nearly 1 out of every 3 applicants received an award. See the complete listing of grant recipients and their trips.

The climbing grant for climbers, by climbers, the Live Your Dream grant seeks to fund every-day adventurers looking take their abilities to the next level. Be it transitioning out of the gym or establishing a first ascent in the greater ranges, the purpose of this grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for mountain adventurers—to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.

The Live Your Dream grant is powered nationally by The North Face and supported locally through generous contributions from the Hans Saari Fund, the John L. Horn Memorial Fund, the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, proceeds stemming from the AAC's Craggin Classic Series, as well as private donations from local individuals, organizations, and fundraising efforts by local AAC Sections & Chapters.

The Live Your Dream grant is community developed and locally administered with grant applications read, evaluated, and awarded by seven Regional Selection Committees comprised of local community members, volunteers, and professional athletes.

The 2018 Live Your Dream grant cycle will open for applications on February 1, 2018.

FEATURED RECIPIENTS:

Christopher Bruno, from Ann Arbor MI, was awarded $900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets a 160 nautical mile sailboat transit from Juneau to Lituya Bay, a trek into the mountains from the beach drop off, a climbing attempt on Mount Fairweather, and finally an exit via skis and packrafts to Haines.

Marisa Earll, from La Jolla, CA, was awarded $350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on five of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake, gaining new experience climbing in the backcountry while pushing her personal grade limit.

Zack Sawyer, from Scarborough, ME, was awarded $700 for two weeks of alpine climbing in Chamonix, France, with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.

2017 LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT RECIPIENTS

The American Alpine Club and The North Face are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $69,750 was awarded to 144 recipients.

NORTHEAST REGION:

The Northeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Cliff Simanski. Committee members included Alexa Siegel, Howard Sebold, and TNF athlete Anna Pfaff.

Gregory Zegas: Charlestown, MA
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Catherine Tobin to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).

Catherine Tobin: New Rochelle, NY
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Gregory Zegas to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).

Pavel Cenkl: Craftsbury Common, VT
$750 for traversing the remote and mountainous terrain between Norway, Sweden, and Finland to attempt to set the fastest known time for a 12-day, 800km largely self-supported Arctic Trail Run of the Nordkalottleden while sharing evidence of a rapidly changing climate in the region and its effects on local indigenous Sami communities.

James Cromie: Chittenden, VT
$950 to travel to the Waddington Range in British Columbia and traverse the entire length of the Combatant-Tiedemann-Asperity-Serra group (including Serra 1-5) in fast and light alpine climbing style typical for the range.     

Michael Dorfman: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Helen Jolley by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.

Helen Jolley: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Michael Dorfman by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.

Michael Wadsley: West Grove, PA
$500 to climb the 1000', 14 pitch Rainbow Wall in Red Rock, Nevada via the Original Route during a 9 day stay in Red Rock Canyon.

Adam Nawrot: Somerset, NJ
$800 to climb routes in the Polish Tatras, including Filar Staszla and ski down the backside Granaty.

Evan Pierce: Newton, MA
$450 for his breakthrough into alpine rock climbing by freeing a series of progressively more difficult routes culminating with an ascent of the incredible Hulk via the Red Dihedral route.

Thomas Crowe: Blue Hill, ME
$950 To embark on an expedition with Samuel Eley to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.

Samuel Eley: Portland, ME
$500 to embark on an expedition with Thomas Crowe to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.

Augustine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 11 year old Augustine will finally have time to commit to projecting and acquiring the skills to stay focused on one objective.

Anastasia McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 9 year old Anastasia to climb a 5.10a that will challenge her to overcome her fears of ledges and intimidated roofs.

Magdalen McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 8 year old Magdalen to immerse herself in the outdoors and connect with nature through climbing, hiking, and swimming.

Catherine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 5 year old Catherine to build the fundamental skills of climbing and camping under the tutelage of her family.

Piers McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario to learn about nature and grow his appreciation for the outdoors while connecting with family.

Cameron Twombly: Center Conway, NH
$200 to travel in Northeastern Spain, summit a few of the classic, tall, spires in Montserrat, to send her first 5.12 sport climb in Oliana, and to summit the 2500 meter peak Pedraforca.

Will Helmetag: Pawlet, VT
$950 to explore, via sailboat, Devil's Bay, Chaleur Bay, and Rencontre Bay with the objectives to climb Leviathan 5.10b and develop new trad routes on the most clear lines of these newly discovered walls.

Zack Sawyer: Scarborough, ME
$700 for two weeks of alpine climbingin Chamonix, France , with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.

Brian Taylor: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Ethan Cantlin over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo. 

Ethan Cantlin: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Brian Taylor over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo.

David Migl: Brookline, MA
$450 to travel in a team of three to the Ishinca valley in Peru for 10 days of mountaineering with summits of Urus Este (5420m), Ishinca (5530m), and Tocllaraju (6031m).

Timothy Rabideau: Brookline, MA
$950 To spend a nine months in Nepal and while there, complete the Manaslu and/or Annapurna circuit, to traverse from Makalu to Everest via the 3 cols route, to summit at least one 6000 meter "trekking" peak, to connect with local climbing partners/guides and climb LOTS of rock and ice, with a focus on improving big wall free and aid climbing techniques, all contributing towards the ultimate goal of becoming a Mountain Guide.

Dante Archangeli: New Haven, CT
$800 for a redpoint attempt of the mixed sport and trad, 6 pitch route the Opal, 5.12d/13a in the South Gully of The Chief as part of a larger objective to test and develop climbing ability and trip management skills.      

Gowri Varanash: Red Hook, NY
$400 to take down her project, French Indian Masala 7c/5.12d, the crimpy, technical sport route in Badami, India.

Josh Alcorn: New York, NY
$500 to travel to the Cascade Range in Washington State to develop his mountaineering skills on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker (10,781 ft).

Andrew Jones: Lincoln, VT
$400 to climb the Northeast Buttress of Goode Mountain in the North Cascades of Washington State in three days.

Owen Silitch:  New York, NY
$500 to drive out to Yosemite and the High Sierra to hone his big-wall climbing skills on routes like The Prow and The Red Dihedral in preparation for climbing Lurking Fear on El Capitan.

Annie Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Rory Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.

Rory Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Annie Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.

Ryan Sarka:  Buffalo, NY
$1000 for a splitboard and ski ascent and decent of the Western Buttress of Denali to further the mission of Between The Peaks and film a documentary focusing on local habitat and sustainability issues.

Henry Garcia: Brentwood, NY
$750 to establish a first ascent on the 2,600' west face of the 17,550' high peak, the Ritacuba Negro in Sierra del Cocuy, Colombian Andes.

Tristan Amaral: Warner, NH
$300 for a trip with Matthew Birkebak to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .

Matthew Birkebak : West Peterborough, NH
$300 for a trip with Tristan Amaral to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .

Garrett Gibbons: Philadelphia, PA
$400 to hone multi-pitch trad climbing skills on the epic granite of The Chief by climbinga variation of the Squamish Buttress known as the Squamish Butt Face via Banana Peel (5.7) and Boomstick Crack (5.6) into the crux pitch (5.9) to the summit.

James Armstrong: Olivebridge, NY
$1000 to reach the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Nahanni Provincial Park by fair means, navigating to the Cirque on foot, with no plane/helicopter ride with the goal of climbing Lotus Flower Tower and exploring new surrounding areas.

John Nicholas: Mount Kisco, NY
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with Ryan Lynch.

Ryan Lynch: Westford, MA
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with John Nicholas.

Nan Teh: Brooklyn, NY
$250 to attempt, with Mikhail Martin, to climb their first big wall multi-pitch in Cochamo Valley, specifically the 1,500' 10-pitch route El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, 5.10+.

Mikhail Martin: Queens Village, NY
$250 to travel, with Nan Teh , to learn how to survive in the outdoors, on a big wall, and ascend El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, while inspiring other climbers from the city, especially climbers of color to get out of their comfort zone, and practice Spanish in Chile.

Matthew Matera: New York, NY
$200 to climb and run through Chamonix, Zermatt, and several towns in the Dolomites, including Run the Dolomites Skyrace, a 3 day run of the Walker Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt to prepare for speed objectives including Mount Ritter, Mount Humphrey, and the Tuolumne Meadow Triple Crown in the Sierras in California.

Greg Morrissey: Westfield, NJ
$400 to bike from Vancouver, CA to Tijuana, Mexico and climb Mount Rainier and Mount Hood while raising awareness about the importance of outdoor education and fundraising for financially-restricted high school students to participate in adventure and travel enrichment trips.

Julia Lowd: Brooklyn, NY
$500 to summit the third highest point in North America , Pico de Orizaba and ski down 3,000' from the summit cone of the Jamapa glacier.

Jordan Cargill: Freedom, NH
$800 for a three phase trip to boost crack climbing skills in Vantage, WA, alpine efficiency on the East Face of Mount Whiteny and the North Fairview Dome, and high-altitude mountaineering with an ascent of Pico de Orizaba in Mexico via the Serpents Head route.

Domenic Aiello-Popeo: Silver Lake, NH
$600 to climb Alaska's Mt. Foraker (AKA Sultana, 17,400') via an extremely technical face called the "Fin Wall" and continue up the Southwest Buttress to the summit, traversing the peak and descending to the Kahiltna Glacier.

Patrick Cooke: Newtown, MA
$500 to travel to the Cordillera Blanca for a month and climb some classic high-altitude snow and ice routes in addition to some lesser traveled objectives like the south face of Caraz I and the Jaeger Route on Chacraraju Este.     

Bob Clark: East Hartford, CT
$500 to travel to the township of Araruna in Brazil to establish two first ascents up two different domes between 500' and 600' tall.

Josh Garrison: Katonah, NY
$500 to put up first ascents on multiple formations in the Lofoten Islands in Norway while being a mentor to two friends who are new to alpine fast and light, pioneering objectives.

SOUTHEAST REGION:

The Southeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Danny McCracken. Committee members included Dave Giacomin, Brian Payst, and Garrett Gossett.

Aaron Ray: District Of Columbia
$435 to travel to Bolivia to attempt multiple peaks in the Cordillera Real, centered on the Condoriri group and Illiman.

John Gannon: Fairfax, Virginia
$265 to attempt to summit Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route unguided with a group of veterans.

Michelle Xue: District Of Columbia
$320 to climb Nevado Sajama (21,486 ft) and Parinacota (20,767 ft) in June of 2017 with a team of 3 other climbers.

Matt Swaim: Charlotte, North Carolina
Timothy Fry: Belmont, North Carolina
$270 for Matt and $535 for Timothy to navigate the remote, difficult terrain of the Nahanni National Park by foot travel only.

Sam England: Huntsville, Alabama
Ryan Little: Huntsville, Alabama
$435 for Ryan and $570 for Sam to the Sam Ford Fjord region of Baffin Island to attempt a first ascent big wall climb of the Chinese Wall, a large, unclimbed face.

Corey Winstead: Asheville, North Carolina
$520 to further explore the nearly untouched Thunderdome massif in the Ragged Range of the Northwest Territories.

Alex Elizabeth Barringer: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$300 to climb Wolf's Head via its east ridge.

Lindsay Keegan: Baltimore, Maryland
$300 to climb the classic Liberty Ridge of Mount Rainier in Washington.

John Hughes: District Of Columbia
$200 to climb Mount Jefferson via the Whitewater Glacier route and Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route.

Greg Barltrop: Baltimore, Maryland
$280 to climb the Liberty Ridge route to the summit of Mt. Rainier in Washington state.

Phillip Jasper: District Of Columbia
$200 to attempt a back to back climbs of Mt. Jefferson, OR via the Whitewater Glacier as well as travel up to Mt. Rainier and summit via Emmons Glacier. 

Matthew Wikswo: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$270 to attempt a self-guided ascent of Mount Rainer via Ptarmigan Ridge.

Oya Bermek: Cary, North Carolina
$350 to open new alpine routes in Aladaglar (Ala Mountains), which is located at the mountain range of Toros (Taurus) Mountains in southern Turkey.

CENTRAL REGION:

The Central Regional Selection Committee was chaired by James Schroeder. Committee members included Ryan Gajewski, Adam Mitchell, Savannah Buik, and Ryan Maitland.

Samuel Daulton: Chicago, IL
$1,000 to make the first free ascent of Nubivagant (5.13d A0) and the volcanic tower, Pico Cão Grande, on the island nation of São Tomé in Africa.

Adam Happensack: Englewood, OH
$1,000 to fly into the southern prong of the Pitchfork Glacier in Alaska's Neacola Mountains - there they hope to explore and make the first ascent of a pair of unnamed peaks.

Corey McCarthy, Oconomowoc, WI
$750 to do a sea-to-summit expedition in Alaska approaching the Devil's Thumb via Thomas Bay and the Baird Glacier.

Carey deVictoria-Michel: Excelsior, MN
$500 to travel to Patagonia to climb Chiaro Di Luna (5.10+) - a twenty-pitch alpine rock adventure.

Lucy Westlake: Naperville, IL
$500 to become the youngest female to summit the highest points in all fifty states, she will complete that journey this summer on the flanks of Denali.

Edward Kowalski: Independence, OH
$250 to fulfill a lifelong dream of climbing Yosemite's, El Capitan, via Tangerine Trip (5.9 C3+ VI).

ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION:

The Rocky Mountain Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Dakota Walz. Committee members included Mitch Dorsk, Shingo Ohkawa, and Steve Taylor.

Kelly Stewart: Salt Lake City, UT
$375 to climb the Beckey Chouinard route on South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.

Aidan Goldie: Jamestown, CO
$400 to climb and ski off the 18,490 ft Pico de Orizaba volcano in Mexico.

Paul Barish: Leadville, CO
$850 to climb 2,000' south-east face of Lotus Flower Tower, a pure and aesthetic alpine rock route that just beckons to be climbed.

Ryan Kuehn: Boulder, CO
$425 to travel down to Chile to climb in Valle Cochamo.

Lea Linse: Colorado Springs, CO
$350 to travel to Yosemite NP and climb Astroman (5.11), Steck-Salathe (5.10), and hopefully either the Nose (5.9 C2) or Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) on El Capitan

Michael Riley: Sat Lake City, UT
$500 to travel to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to climb Objectivo Luna, an 8 pitch 5.10c route. 

Michael Scott: Salida, CO
$200 to travel to the Alaskan range to attempt the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington.

Annie Brewster: Denver, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.

Igor Tomcej: Denver, CO
$380 to travel to Peru and do the second ascent of the route Los Checos Banditos on La Esfinge.

John Sittler: Boulder, CO
$200 to climb the Beckey-Chouinard route on South Howser Tower as the culmination of a month-long climbing road trip.

Kevin Cantwell: Salt Lake City, UT
$350 to climb All Along the Watchtower, 5.11 C2- on North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos, located in British Colombia, Canada.

Mitchell Hodge: Fort Collins, CO
$300 to attempt 1 route on the North Face of the Lost Twin Lakes Cirque in Cloud Peak Wilderness of Bighorn National Forest WY.

Ben Peters: Salt Lake City, UT
$770 to climb the British Route (5.12 a/b 700m) on Nalumasortoq and War and Peace (5.12c 1000m) on Ulamertorsuaq and attempt to establish a new line on the west of Nalumasortoq.

Matt Berry: Salt Lake City, UT
$800 to technical climb routes on peaks such as Alpamayo, Tocllaraju, Artesonraju, and Taulliraju of Peru.

Ellie Gilbertson: Colorado Springs, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.

Karen Bockel: Jackson, WY
$825 to climb the Peuterey Integral on Mont Blanc, one of the longest alpine ridge climbs in the Alps, and the world.

Kelsey Brasseur: Carbondale, CO
$775 to spend a month climbing and establishing new routes in Li Ming, China.

NORTHWEST REGION:

The Northwest Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Erin Schneider. Committee members included Andrew Puhl, Graham Zimmerman, Jean Spencer, and TNF athlete Peter Athans.

John Bergeleen: Cheney, WA
$300 to climb of the Upper Exum Ridge, or Exum Direct on the Grand Teton.

James Paul Blackmon: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb Mongo Ridge – the southwest ridge of Mt. Fury in the Pickets range of Washington State, and a first ascent on the Pole of Remoteness, which will be called "Mongo Direct".

Cameron Brown: Clackamas, OR
$300 to climb The Salathe Wall and The Nose on El Capitan.

Paul Calabro: Belgrade, MT
$300 for a lightweight ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mt. Foraker (Sultana) in the Alaska Range.

Tom Chambers: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb one or more routes in the vicinity of Peak 1939, up to Grade V with climbing difficulties up to 5.10 A1. Access to the routes would involve sea kayaking approx. 60km North from Kulusuk up the Angmagssalik fjord to the North-West inlet of Qigertivaq. From the coast we would hike approx 12km to the base of the route.

Kimberly Couri: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

Bill Dean: Juneau, AK
$400 to support a solely human-powered unassisted exploration into remote Alaska, during winter, attempting the first winter ascent of Devil's Paw (8,504').

Eric DeChaine: Bellingham, WA
$300 to perform a botanical survey of Mt. Waddington in British Columbia, to document how plant diversity changes with elevation under the current climate conditions. To do so, they will climb the mountain via the Bravo Glacier route.

Stephen Lezak: Portland, OR
$500 to travel to Mongolia for ski mountaineering in the Altai Mountains with one first ascent.

Sam Linnet: Hailey, ID
$300 to climb and ski all seven, 12,000 foot peaks in the Lost River Range in Idaho in one, fast and light push.

Nicholas Lyon: Bellingham, WA
$400 to wrap up a handful of two year old projects and establish new bouldering problems in classic and new areas alike in Rocklands, South Africa.

Tammy Martin: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

Luke Montgomery: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb the East Buttress and East Face of Mt. Whitney.

Chris Mutzel: Sun Valley, ID
$400 to complete the Waddington Traverse.

David Norris: Anchorage, AK
$300 to ski across the Harding Icefield on cross-country racing gear- starting in Seward and ending in Homer, Alaska.

Joseph Peters: Spokane, WA
$400 to climb the Cassin Ridge (Alaska Grade 5, 5.8, AI 4) in a single push alpine style after acclimating on the West Buttress of Denali.

Randall Stacy: Boise, ID
$400 to climb in the Chalten Massif in Patagonia – specifically Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

Kellie Standish: Bend, OR
$500 to climb and ski Mt. Hood, acting as support for teammate Anna Soens, also awarded a LYD grant, seeking to become the first female paraplegic to climb and ski Mt. Hood.

Erik Turner: Seattle, WA
$300 to complete the Olympic Skyline Traverse in the Olympic Mountains, WA.

Ida Vincent: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

WESTERN REGION:

The Western Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Matt Ulrey. Committee members included Laurie Berliner, Tony Yeary, Paul Hendricks, TNF athlete Dave Allfrey, and TNF staff member Rachel Gray.

Jeff Gardner: Coronado, California
$750 to climb and summit Mount Rainier by way of the technically demanding Kautz Glacier approach with an advanced course from Alpine Ascents International.

Scott Larson: San Diego, California
$750 to climb the West Rib route on Denali. We will ski to 14000 ft camp via the West Buttress route, then descend via the "Seattle '72 Ramp" on foot to the base of the West Rib. From here, they hope to climb the West Rib to the summit and return down the West Buttress to our skis.

Marisa Earll: La Jolla, California
$350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on 5 of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake.

Kenneth Huskey: Chico, California
$750 to document the Nepali people's experience with climate change while we simultaneously level up their climbing.

Kara Herson: Redwood City, California
$1000 to climb three different spires in the Bugaboos, and exploring the amazing climbing opportunities (and hoping for good weather days) over 2 to 3 weeks.

Diana Wendt: Mammoth Lakes, California
$1000 to spend a month in the Tasermiut Fjord in southeast Greenland in the valley below Ulamertorsuaq climbing the classic granite lines and establishing a new line.

Josh Dibble: Idyllwild, California
$750 to climb Aconcagua solo via the normal route.

Brett Webster: Piedmont, California
$750 to attempt a multi-modal (boat, ski, hike, climb) traverse of Mt. Fairweather, Alaska.

Alix Morris: Bishop, California
$500 to establish a first ascent up the Angel Wings with the intent of free climbing this route as well. Alix would like to go ground up, capsule style establishing each pitch, fixing it with hardware, and free'ing it if possible.

David Whiting: Soquel, California
$250 to climb three Zion big walls in three days. The plan is to climb some of Zion's most classic walls: Spaceshot, Moonlight Buttress, and Touchstone.

Cris Valerio: San Francisco, California
$200 to climb The Nose on El Capitan this Fall. We hope to finish the route in 3-5 days with a combination of free climbing and aid climbing.

Mark Hudon: Carson City, Nevada
$500 to climb Freerider on El Cap in Yosemite at the youthful age of 61!

John Greer: Modesto, California
$750 to make the first ascent of Talliktok, a peak in the Hidden Mountains. Zack Clanton described his Alaskan adventure in the 2016 AAJ publication.

Mac McCaleb: Prescott, Arizona
$200 to summit three peaks in the Bugaboos: Snowpatch Spire, Pigeon Spire, and Bigaboo Spire.

Gregory Carlisle: Tahoe City, California
$500 to return with a dedicated partner and attempt some of the classic summits of the Chalten Massif. Routes they have considered are not groundbreaking or new, but classic and traditional Patagonia summits.

Nathan Duray: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.

Kevin Kent: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.

Clarence Thost: Santa Barbara, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.

Catherine Tao: Bishop, California
$400 to gain experience in basic mountaineering and glacier travel skills by attempting the summits of Dragontail Peak and Colchuck Peak in the Enchantments in Washington.

Darrow Feldstein: Santa Cruz, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.

Annie Laurie Hines: Davis, California
$200 to undertake a granite pilgrimage that begins in the Cascades and ends in the Bugaboos. Though they will spend a month climbing together in preparation, their final objective is a two-day ascent of the Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower.

Erik Hanschen: Tucson, Arizona
$500 to become a better mountaineer and hone his skills for larger adventures by summiting three major Cascade volcanoes: Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood.

Gregory Powell: Redondo Beach, California
$500 to climb the Salathe Wall on El Capitan. First he will become more comfortable with serious chimneys and offwidths by going to Vedauwoo and Joshua Tree.

Maria Hart: Tahoe City, California
$500 to visit Patagonia to climb the Whillans-Cochrane route on Poincenot, the Brenner-Moschioni or Amy-Vidailhet route on Aguja Guillaumet, the Filo Noreste or Francesa/ Franco-Argentine linkup on Fitz Roy, along with other smaller objectives as weather permits.

Eric Munsing: South Lake Tahoe, California
$350 to climb the Evolution Traverse, an 8-mile Grade VI 5.9 ridge traverse which summits nine peaks in the central Sierra Nevadas in California.

Elizabeth Gill: San Anselmo, California
$550 to complete a women's fastest known time (FKT) run of the 40km (4,204m elevation gain) Selvaggio Blu, or Wild Blu, on the island of Sardinia.

Marissa Stender: Pleasanton, California
$300 to help fund a trip to Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) to climb and ski the Skillet on Mount Moran.

Bria Riggs: Truckee, California
$400 to combine mountaineering and scientific research in order to investigate how climate change is affecting the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru.

Nathaniel Goodby: Oakland, California
$200 to do a self-supported thru-hike all of California's 13 fourteeners in the Sierra Nevada.

SKI/SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING SPECIFIC:

The Ski/Snowboard Mountaineering Selection Committee was chaired by Mike Marolt. Committee members included Drew Seessel, Charlotte Fox, Kit DesLauriers, and Hilaree O'neill.

Sonia Szczesna: New Brunswick NJ
$250 to climb & ski winter routes in the Polish Tatras—humble mountains where their fathers cut their teeth and the training grounds for many a 8000-meter winter first ascent. Their main objective is climbing the 300m ice route variation of the summer route "Filar Staszla" and skiing down the back side of "Granaty" which the route crests.

Christopher Bruno: Ann Arbor MI
$900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets to traverse the Fairweather range of SE Alaska.  We will start in Juneau in a sailboat, for a 160 nautical mile transit to Lituya Bay.  They will then climb into the mountains from the beach drop off, and attempt Mount Fairweather and then exit the mountains via skis and packrafts to Haines.

Payson Patridge: Bozeman MT
$250 to climb and ski Pico de Orizaba in Mexico.

Jonathan Ronzio, Brookline MA
$750 to climb and splitboard Denali as a follow-up to his award-winning adventure-philanthropy film made in 2013, Between The Peaks.

David Wade: Wilson WY
$700 to climb & ski Pik Lenin (23,406ft) in Kyrgystan.

Lisa Verwys: Bozeman MT
$600 to be the first female team to traverse Yellowstone National Park from the north (Cooke City, MT) to the south (Flagg Ranch near Jackson, WY), creating a new route which will take her through some of the most remote areas of the park. The trip will be done entirely on backcountry skis and with attempts of ski descents of several of Yellowstone’s remote peaks along the way, including Mt. Chittenden, Little Saddle, Hague, Saddle, Cathedral, Pyramid, and several unnamed peaks.

Maddie Miller: Forest Knolls CA
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska with the goal to do single push climbing and skiing objectives, starting from our basecamp on the Bagley Ice Field, which is located in the St. Elias Range.

Robert Cipperly: Troy NY
$300 to climb and ski four different volcanoes that lie close to the border of Chile and Argentina—Lonquimay, Lliama, Villirica and Lanin.

Anna Soens: Boise ID
$750 to climb Mt. Hood via the South Side Route and become the first female paraplegic to do so, and potentially bagging the first non-mechanized paraplegic ascent. She plans to ski (i.e., monoski) as much of the descent as possible.

Bears Ears National Monument Postcard Writing Toolkit

Postcard by AAC Content Coordinator Emma Longcope

The official public comment period on Bears Ears started May 12 and has been extended. It now closes on July 10. 

The Department of the Interior is, for the first time ever, asking the public to officially weigh in on the national monuments under review, per President Trump's April 26, 2017 Executive Order. We only have until July 10 to provide input during this public comment period.

Now more than ever we need your voice to help protect Bears Ears National Monument. Find out more about the Bears Ears issue here and read AAC member John Climaco's opinion piece about it here. You can also learn more by reading about our recent trip to D.C. to Climb the Hill. 

Why a postcard? 

The Department of the Interior accepts comments both online and by mail. Adding your name to a petition or online comment chain is important. A unique and tangible note, however, carries extra weight with elected officials. 

Click on the button below to use our pre-addressed postcard template that you can print out and send to the Department of Interior. (Tip: print double-sided with card stock paper.)

Writing Tips:

Make it personal: Share your story about why you love Bears Ears National Monument.

Provide a call to action: Ask the Department of Interior to protect Bears Ears National Monument.

Use some of the suggested messages below or craft your own. Feel free to edit these messages and add your voice.

-The Bears Ears region in southeastern Utah is one of the greatest climbing destinations in the U.S. I love to climb in the Bears Ears area because.... 

-I support the Bears Ears National Monument because it protects climbing and significant Native American cultural sites.

-The Antiquities Act is a valuable tool for protecting America's heritage.

-Do not rescind or reduce Bears Ears National Monument.

Our template includes the Department of the Interior's address, but if you're making your own, address it to: 

Monument Review, MS-1530
U.S. Department of the Interior
1849 S Street NW
Washington, DC 20240

Time is running out! No time for a postcard?

You can:

Thank you for helping to preserve this wonderful place! We're stronger together.

Artwork: AAC staff member Emma Longcope

Climbers Lobby for Public Lands

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

On May 11th, 2017, the AAC and Access Fund joined forces in our nation’s capital to Climb the Hill to advocate for public lands, the outdoor recreation economy and adequate funding for land management agencies. With a team of 50 climbers—including Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter—we dispersed throughout Capitol Hill to meet with members of Congress and leaders of land management agencies.

Climbers showed up in force and found a responsive audience. Lawmakers were impressed by the unique perspectives of the climbing community. 

Learn more about our impact and experience in our Policy Update. 

Did you miss us live in DC? Watch it here.

Climbers Lobby for Public Lands

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

On May 11th, 2017, the AAC and Access Fund joined forces in our nation’s capital to Climb the Hill to advocate for the protection of public lands, a robust outdoor recreation economy and adequate funding for land management agencies. With a team of 50 climbers—including Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter—we dispersed throughout Capitol Hill to meet with members of Congress and leaders of the Department of Interior and the U.S. Forest Service. Over the course of the day, we attended 50 meetings on the Hill and with agency leaders.

Climbers showed up in force and found a responsive audience. Lawmakers were impressed by the unique perspectives of the climbing community. For example, Tommy Caldwell captured their attention when he began, “Fifty percent of my days are spent living and climbing on our public lands. Public lands matter to me because...” As climbers, we are experts on the value of public lands because we know them intimately and spend significant amounts of time on them.

Climb the Hill culminated with a Congressional Briefing to further provide members of Congress and staff from both sides of the aisle with a climber’s perspective. The briefing was packed, with standing room only. Speakers included Sasha DiGiulian, Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold and Senator Tim Kaine (former Vice Presidential candidate).

Climb the Hill was made possible by title sponsor Adidas and with contributions from The North Face and Brooklyn Boulders.

Alex Honnold speaks to the importance of public lands. Stephen Gosling photo.

What's at Stake

About 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federal public lands—lands which are held in trust for all Americans. However, right now, there are unprecedented threats to our public lands. Both state and federal lawmakers have introduced legislation to sell off millions of acres, weaken public management, underfund land management agencies, and increase land development at the cost of public access. These measures threaten climbing as well as the fundamental notion that our public lands belong to everyone. As climbers, we have a responsibility to speak up.

Some members of the lobbying team. Stephen Gosling photo. 

How You Can Help

As climbing grows in popularity, climbers’ voices are an increasingly influential force for public policy issues. From now until May 26th, 2017, climbers are needed to speak up for Bears Ears National Monument, the first national monument to list climbing as a valued activity in its proclamation. Bears Ears contains world-class climbing, including Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch/Texas Canyon, Comb Ridge and Valley of the Gods. President Trump’s April 26th Executive Order on the review of national monuments lists Bears Ears National Monument as the first priority for review. We need your help to communicate to the administration that the Bears Ears National Monument has incredible significance to our community and must remain protected. As Libby Sauter said during Climb the Hill, policy is determined by those who show up. Please write letters, call, email and tweet at Secretary Zinke to ensure the administration knows how much Bears Ears means to us. For more information, check out the notice issued by the Department of the Interior.

You can:

  • Use the climbers’ letter writing tool.

  • Submit comments online at http://www.regulations.gov by entering “DOI-2017-0002” in the Search bar and clicking “Search.”

  • Send snail mail to: Monument Review, MS-1530, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1849 C Street NW., Washington, DC 20240. (use our postcard template)

  • Call the Department of the Interior with any questions: Randal Bowman, 202-208-1906.

  • Tweet at Secretary Ryan Zinke: @SecretaryZinke.

The lobbying group at the Capital. Stephen Gosling photo. 

Looking Ahead

Climb the Hill made a strong impression on our lawmakers. AAC and AF will Climb the Hill together again next year and, in the meantime, we will continue to advocate for the protection of public lands and strive to make a lasting, positive impact.

P.S. Did you miss our live coverage from DC? Watch it here:

Check it out

The American Alpine Club Library isn’t just home to historic mountaineering ephemera but also maintains thousands of circulating items. As AAC members you have access to these items by logging into your library profile at: booksearch.americanalpineclub.org and requesting them through the “Get It Now!” feature. Books will be mailed to the mailing address you have on file (so make sure it’s current), all you have to pay for is return shipping. Averaging 230 items circulated to just 60 members each month, the greatest benefit to AAC membership (potentially biased opinion) is going under utilized by the majority of members. 

The library has everything you need from training guidebooks for all levels, hiking and climbing guides for your local crag or wherever you may be off to, and mountaineering narratives, literature and videos for rest days.

AAC Volunteers Bring New Heights Program to Underserved Kids

A report from AAC Triangle Chapter Chair David Thoenen

AAC Volunteer: “What's most fun about climbing?”
Shalynn, age 12: “Belaying… because that's when my friends know that I've got their back.”

The AAC Triangle Chapter's New Heights program for underserved children began with an informal outing in the fall of 2014. A dozen or so kids enrolled in a YMCA mentoring program for at-risk children spent an evening with AAC volunteers, enjoying their first climbing experience. The Y and the Triangle Rock Club North Raleigh, provided logistical support while AAC volunteers belayed, cheered and laid out a pizza spread.

It was so much fun that the group did it again a month later. The seed had been planted.

AAC volunteers Rebecca Lem, Derek Morgan, Cathy Kramer and John Dagenhart recognized that the chapter could do more for the kids than simply get them into the gym for special outings. They proposed the creation of an ongoing outreach program, which launched in February 2015 with support from the Y, the Triangle Rock Club, and a dozen more AAC volunteers. Connie Lightner (Kai Lightner’s mother) and lead volunteer Rebecca christened the program New Heights.

Iyana Cropped.jpg

New Heights is a program, not an event. Twelve kids per location are enrolled in the fall and expected to attend monthly sessions during the school year. In addition to offering climbing skill development, the program emphasizes character development, particularly goal-setting, positive interaction and relationships with adults and peers, physical fitness and a healthy lifestyle.

Each monthly session is structured to focus on both the kids' individual objectives and the program's objectives. On arrival, each child is expected to pick-up their shoes and harnesses and gear up independently. After stretching, individuals will work on a combination of bouldering problems and top-roping skills with their AAC climbing mentor. The evening wraps up with a pizza or sandwich dinner buffet for all.

It's great to see kids moving up the YDS scale at the gym. But it's maybe even better to see the older kids like Shaylynn taking on the challenge and responsibility of belaying, letting friends know they’ve “got their back.” 

A program that begins each school year with some fear of heights and general apprehension, ultimately yields significant personal growth. Y Learning leader Jennifer Watson has seen the growing self-confidence in all of her participating students – a development that translates to their academic perseverance and supportive interactions with peers, tutors and mentors.

In February 2017, the program expanded to support a new YMCA branch with a community of predominately Latino children. New Heights is now running monthly at two Triangle Rock Club location, supports two YMCA branches, and has over 20 AAC volunteers.

Thanks to local fundraising support and a generous scholarship from the Triangle Rock Club, this summer New Heights will sponsor twelve children from each location to attend one week of climbing day camp at the Triangle Rock Club. Also, in July, the program will fully sponsor two teenagers to attend a week of residential outdoor rock climbing at YMCA Camp Hanes! In 2018, New Heights plans to bring another Y branch into the program at the North Carolina State University climbing wall.

Growth requires solid program management. For the past two years, AAC volunteer John White has done a superb job as the New Heights Program Director, delivering an outstanding program across both locations.

“I've enjoyed supporting a program where perseverance and tenacity are nurtured through fun, exciting and engaging physical activity,” John says. “The program gives our kids the opportunity to apply their own definitions for success and failure to climbing. From there, I hope our kids are better prepared to apply the same goal-setting feedback to their everyday activities.”

John is supported by over twenty-five AAC climbing volunteer mentors and the chapter's New Heights Steering Committee, which includes long-term New Heights volunteers Ashton Drew and Bob Silk and is chaired by Brian Peters.  

Interested in learning more about our chapter program? Check out opportunities by location to find out what’s happening near you.

Secretary Zinke Visits Utah to Review Bears Ears National Monument

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Secretary Zinke arrived in southeastern Utah on May 7th to assess Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. His visit is the result of President Trump’s April 26, 2017 Executive Order that directs the Department of Interior to review the Antiquities Act and select national monuments designated over the last 21 years.

Bears Ears National Monument holds incredible significance to the climbing community. It is home to world-class climbing areas like Indian Creek and Valley of the Gods, and it is the first national monument proclamation that acknowledges the importance of rock climbing. 

Bears Ears was listed as a priority under Trump’s Executive Order, and an initial report is due by June 10, 2017. Zinke intends to review the process by which Bears Ears was designated a national monument, in order to determine if it complied with the law. If this review is comprehensive and transparent, Access Fund, American Alpine Club and Outdoor Alliance believe it will find that the monument, in its entirety, is justified. The previous administration spent years conducting a thorough assessment of the Bears Ears region that included a wide spectrum of stakeholders—including climbers—and this process resulted in a well-substantiated national monument boundary that protects threatened cultural resources and recreation areas.

We are pleased that Secretary Zinke has agreed to meet with the Inter-tribal Coalition. The coalition of Native American Tribes is an important stakeholder group that will stress the importance of protecting the entire Bears Ears region, as well as describe their role in the multi-year effort to protect the sensitive landscape. We encourage Secretary Zinke to eventually meet with all stakeholder groups, including the climbing community, to ensure a comprehensive review. Access Fund has reached out to Secretary Zinke to offer a private tour of Indian Creek in order to share the climbing community’s perspective on the region’s recreation resources. Climbers will also meet with his staff next week during Climb the Hill to discuss a range of public land issues including Bears Ears.

Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and Outdoor Alliance will continue to interface with the Department of Interior throughout the national monument review process. The Department of Interior is only accepting comments on Bears Ears National Monument for 15 days after they publish their official notice shortly, and we will send an action alert to mobilize climbers.  

Other national monuments under review that contain climbing areas are San Gabriel Mountains and Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monuments. We will keep the climbing community posted on the national monument review process, but in the meantime please send Secretary Zinke comments regarding the exceptional value of Bears Ears National Monument.

AAC Announces 2017 Research Grant Recipients

Photo by Matt Jenkins of Research Grant recipient Kate McHugh.

Photo by Matt Jenkins of Research Grant recipient Kate McHugh.

We're proud to announce the recipients of the 2017 Research Grants.

Our Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. As climbers, we have a responsibility to understand how our outdoor resources are being affected in changing world. Part of the AAC’s mission is to respect and support the areas we enjoy, one of the most important ways to do that is by funding research to better understand such environments.

May 1, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2017 Research Grants, powered by the Alliance for Sustainable Energy and supported by the following endowments: Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Fund, Scott Fischer Memorial Fund, Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund. The AAC Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. As climbers, we have a responsibility to understand how our outdoor resources are being affected in changing world. Part of the AAC’s mission is to respect and support the areas we enjoy, one of the most important ways to do that is by funding research to better understand such environments.

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Research Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2017 Research Grant recipients:

Kate McHugh – $1,500
Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications in the National Park System, Grand Canyon National Park and Joshua Tree National Park
Kate McHugh is pursuing a Masters in Applied Geospatial Analysis, Geography, Planning, and Recreation at the University of Arizona. She is conducting a study that will determine what variables or indicators should be monitored and measured for climbing management strategies in National Park Service wilderness.

Cristian Rios – $1,000
Ecology and conservation of Polylepis ecosystem and its bird community, Peru
Cristian Rios is a Peruvian Ph.D. student at Cornell University in Conservation Science, entering his fourth year of field work. He is investigating the possible link of habitat loss and habitat fragmentation to the population declines of several threatened bird species in the Polylepsis forests of Huascaran National Park.

Rebecca Finger – $1,000
Limits to shrub expansion in a warmer Arctic, Greenland
Rebecca Finger is a Ph.D. student and NSF Fellow in Ecology at Dartmouth. She is examining the response of shrubs in the Arctic tundra to global warming and its effect on the permafrost over the past 50 years. In addition to conducting research, she will spend some of her time in Greenland helping teach and mentor local high school youth.

Kaitlyn Hanley – $1,000
The persistence of American pika in the Greater Yellowstone Region under a warmer future climate, Montana and Wyoming
Kaitlyn Hanley is a Masters student in Biological Sciences at Clemson. She is investigating both how and why pikas are surviving at lower elevations than previously reported in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

Nathalie Chardon – $750
Disturbance impacts on alpine plant populations at elevational and climatic limits, Colorado
Nathalie Chardon is a Ph.D. candidate in Environmental Studies at University of Colorado, Boulder. She is researching human impacts on biodiversity competition at limits of moss campion’s range, (e.g. hiker disturbance and trampling, and how effects change with elevation).

Chris Cosgrove – $750
Open-source automated weather stations for wireless sensor networks in high altitude/latitude environments, Oregon and Alaska
Chris Cosgrove is a 1st year Ph.D. student at Oregon State University’s Mountain Hydroclimatology group. He is developing and testing a prototype open-source automated weather station that will be integrated into a long-range wireless sensor network. If successful, it should be robust enough to endure winter-long deployment in a remote backcountry site.

Jess Gilbert – $500
Assessing the impact of anthropogenic activities on high altitude biodiversity in Huascaran National Park, Peru
Jess Gilbert is a Ph.D. student in the Department of Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences at Texas A&M University. She is exploring the spatial use of habitat by mammalian carnivores in both ‘pristine’ environments and areas affected by livestock grazing or tourism activities in Huascaran National Park, Peru.

Emily Schultz – $500
The importance of within-patch heterogeneity for metapopulation dynamics of a high elevation pine, Oregon
Emily Shultz is a Ph.D. candidate and NSF fellow in the Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at Rice University. She is developing models predicting the heterogeneity of whitebark pine and impact of heterogeneity on resilience. This research elevates the predictive analysis possible for metapopulations of the endangered conifer.

Win McLaughlin – $500
Initiation and timing of uplift of the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan
Win McLaughlin is a Ph.D. candidate in the Department of Geological Sciences at the University of Oregon. He will conduct field work to collect and compare fossils and rock cores from two basins in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan to constrain the timing and rate of their uplift.

Anya Tyson – $500
The Clark’s Nutcracker Citizen Science Project: Engaging young adventurers in research and conservation, Wyoming
Anya Tyson is a Masters student in the Conservation Ecology and Field Naturalist Program at University of Vermont and the coordinator of the Clark’s Nutcracker Citizen Science Project. She is an active science communicator who specializes in training instructors from NOLS, Teton Science Schools, and other organizations on how to educate their students about the whitebark pine ecosystem.

Daniel Winkler – $500
Biodiversity collapse: how a keystone species mediates biodiversity of Ecuadorian alpine areas responding to climate change, Ecuador
Daniel Winkler is a Ph.D. candidate in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at University of California, Irvine. He is conducting research to test if climate change-induced range shifts of the vulnerable X. rigidum (a keystone nurse plant species) have occurred on the dry western slopes in the rain shadow of Mount Chimborazo, Ecuador.

Alison Criscitiello – $500
Histories of Arctic climate and environmental contaminants from a shallow ice core, Grant Ice Cap, Ellesmere Island, Canada
Alison Criscitiello is a post-doctoral researcher in the Cryosphere Climate Research Group at the University of Calgary, Canada and the Technical Director of the Canadian Ice Core Archive at the University of Alberta. Her research focuses on reconstructing climate and sea ice histories of the Arctic Ocean, as well as examining the presence of pollutants through time.

Rachael Mallon – $500
Phylogeography of Snow Algae Communities in the Pacific Northwest, California, Oregon, Washington
Rachael Mallon is a Masters student in Biology at Western Washington University. She is investigating the effects of snow algae on accelerating melting of snow pack in the Western United States from the Sierra Nevada through the Cascade Range.

Peter Billman – $250
Understanding how changing snowpacks and water availability affect patterns of distributional change in the American pika
Peter Billman is beginning a Ph.D. program at Montana State University. He is investigating the effects of water-availability on the windward (west-facing) and leeward (east-facing) sides in several mountain ranges on the location and distribution of the American pika.

AAC Research Grant Selection Committee

  • Sarah Vail, Committee Chair

  • Danika Gilbert

  • Louis Reichardt

  • Matt Hepp

  • Katie Rose Fischer-Price

With support from: Maria Povec, Research Grant Coordinator, AAC staff and Jonathan Oulton, AAC Policy Program intern

American Alpine Club and Access Fund Host Second Annual Climb the Hill Event

Celebrated climbers Conrad Anker, Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter will join the American Alpine Club and Access Fund to represent the climbing community in Washington D.C. for Climb the Hill, an event sponsored by Adidas. On May 11, 2017, both organizations, alongside a team of elite climbers and outdoor industry partners, will meet with Congressional representatives and policymakers to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation and improved climbing management.

April 26, 2017, Golden, CO— Celebrated climbers Conrad Anker, Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter will join the American Alpine Club and Access Fund to represent the climbing community in Washington D.C. for Climb the Hill, an event sponsored by Adidas. On May 11, 2017, both organizations, alongside a team of elite climbers and outdoor industry partners, will meet with Congressional representatives and policymakers to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation and improved climbing management.

The team of rock climbing advocates will share their experiences on public lands with members of Congress and top federal land agency officials. They will also advocate for appropriate funding levels and balanced land management policies that support outdoor recreation and conservation.  

“Climbers have a vested interest in what happens in D.C., and showing up to make our voice heard is key to the future of the sport,” stated Brad Brooks, AAC Board member and Policy Committee member. “By working together with industry and partner organizations, we form a stronger united front to voice the climbing community’s concerns to our representatives.”

Access Fund estimates that about 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federal public lands. The American Alpine Club and Access Fund will advocate to protect The Antiquities Act, as well as voice their opposition to proposals that would diminish the value of federal recreation assets and sell or transfer federal public lands to states or private entities.

“Threats to federal public lands constitute the greatest threat to rock climbing we’ve ever faced. The most iconic climbing areas in the country are found on our public lands, and our mission is to make sure that these climbing areas are protected and conserved for future generations,” said Erik Murdock, Access Fund policy director.

“Public lands are not only the backbone of outdoor recreation, they also support a healthy economy,” said Brooks. According to The Outdoor Recreation Economy Report, 2017 by the Outdoor Industry Association, outdoor recreation (now included in the GDP), generates $887 billion in consumer spending and 7.6 million jobs annually. This sum nearly amounts to what Americans spend on pharmaceuticals and motor vehicles combined.

For more information on how you can support the Climb the Hill campaign, visit climbthehill.org.

AAC Statement on President Trump’s Executive Order for a 
Review of Existing National Monument Designations under the Antiquities Act

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

AAC Statement on President Trump’s Executive Order for a Review of Existing National Monument Designations under the Antiquities Act

April 26, 2017: This morning President Trump signed an executive order instructing the Interior Department to review all national monuments designated under the Antiquities Act since 1996. An interim report will be concluded within 45 days and a final report within 120 days of the order.

The American Alpine Club is concerned by how this order will impact the future of critical climbing resources, our public lands and the Antiquities Act—the conservation tool used for more than 100 years to safeguard our country’s important archaeological, historic and scientific resources on public lands. 

Under this review will be the newly designated Bears Ears National Monument—the first national monument to recognize rock climbing as a valued activity in its proclamation. In addition to its spectacular climbing areas, Bears Ears includes more than 100,000 Native American cultural sites. “The creation of Bear Ears National Monument—with its iconic desert climbing, wild canyons and Native American artifacts—represents the best, highest value, and most sustainable use possible of these iconic and spectacular landscapes which are on par with Canyonlands, Arches and Yellowstone,” says AAC board policy member Peter Metcalf. “We must be fearless in communicating unambiguously to the president about our absolute commitment to our country’s monuments, especially Bears Ears.”  

Just this week, the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) released its new data: The outdoor recreation economy generates over $887 billion in consumer spending and supports 7.6 million American jobs. The U.S. Department of the Interior reports that visits to our national parks added $35 billion to the U.S. economy in 2016 alone. As OIA’s Executive Director Amy Roberts says, “Monuments, many of which have become national parks, have created economic prosperity and jobs in local communities for decades. The vast majority of Americans value their national parks and monuments and want these lands protected.”

AAC Policy Director Maria Povec is currently in D.C. with the Outdoor Industry Association to educate elected leaders about the importance of public lands to the climbing community and the benefits of the outdoor recreation economy. In early May, the AAC will be back in D.C. with the Access Fund to “Climb the Hill” and advocate for places we climb, land management agencies and policies that support outdoor recreation. As Metcalf says, “We best ensure our continued privilege to climb, in part, by educating others about the integral role our public lands play in the vibrancy of our economy, our cultural history, bio-diversity, and the quality of our lives.”

Latest Educational Video: Cleaning an Anchor in Single Pitch

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Like all climbing AAC education resources, cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting has some simple principles that will help climbers find a technical solution to most common anchor-cleaning scenarios. Our most recent Know the Ropes video reminds climbers that anchor-cleaning should ideally be a principle-based procedure because

  • The hardware on the tops of cliffs can vary wildly

  • The stances vary quite a bit

  • The tools climbers have available can vary too. 

These principles will guide viewers to appreciate how safety systems work, how to be more efficient, and how to communicate effectively when cleaning. That kind of perspective helps us analyze our decision making and solve problems in adverse/unexpected conditions.

2017 Excellence in Climbing Awards Announced

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees for lasting contributions both on and off the mountain.

The 2017 inductees are:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

April 13, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees: Sean Patrick, Dave Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O’Neill, and former AAC President Doug Walker.

This prestigious award is given to those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. These climbers have inspired a legacy for future climbers, positively impacted the environment, and advanced the fields of science and medicine, all while accomplishing incredible climbing feats.

Learn more about this year’s Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

Each year, the AAC recognizes one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrated excellence in climbing, upheld the values of the American Alpine Club, and acted in a manner befit a world-class ambassador to American climbing both domestically and abroad.The team was supported by the American Alpine Club’s Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Grant.

The teamwork themed celebration will be held on Saturday June 3, 2017 at the Westin located at 1672 Lawrence Street, Denver, CO 80202. The evening includes presentations by award winners and attendees will enjoy a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and food. An after party featuring live music by 80’s cover band, The Goonies, drinks, and gear giveaway will take place directly after the dinner also at Westin.

All proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.

Darby Communications Selects the AAC for Stand Up Initiative

2016 Lobby Day

2016 Lobby Day

The program will provide pro bono PR services to four non-profits in the next 12 months

Asheville, NC – April 6, 2017 – Darby Communications, a boutique public relations agency specializing in the outdoor, fitness and wellness industries, is excited to announce the selections for the 2017 Stand Up Initiative. Launched in February, the program supports select environmentally-focused non-profit organizations with pro bono PR-related services. With the goal of helping to protect and preserve the environment and public lands, Darby Communications chose four organizations making significant positive impacts on the environment, they include: American Alpine Club, Grand Staircase-Escalante Partners, Bee City USA and The Collider.

To kick off the program, Darby Communications will work with the American Alpine Club (AAC), a non-profit that focuses on advocacy and leadership to support the climbing community and promote conservation. Together the organizations will work towards educating the climbing community about the importance of public lands and heighten awareness around the policy work the AAC is doing to preserve our natural spaces.

“We believe that as climbers, we bear the important responsibility of protecting the places we climb and sustaining the climbing community,” says AAC Policy Director Maria Povec. “We are thrilled to have the support of Darby Communications to share our message and encourage climbers to stand up for the wild places we all enjoy.”

The second beneficiary is the Grand Staircase-Escalante Partners, a non-profit committed to preserving and protecting the 1.9 million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument for the use and enjoyment of future generations. Darby Communications will proudly support their campaign to raise awareness about the monument and the importance of protecting it against threats being made to Utah’s public lands.

The final two recipients of the 2017 Stand Up Initiative, Bee City USA and The Collider, are based in Darby Communications’ hometown of Asheville, North Carolina. Bee City USA endorses a set of commitments for creating sustainable habitats for pollinators which are vital to feeding the planet. Through the Initiative, they seek to share their mission to sustain pollinators by providing them with a healthy habitat. Kicking off the first quarter of 2018, Darby will assist The Collider,  an innovation center that exists to bring together diverse expertise and stimulate a new industry of climate products and services globally. The focus of the pro bono services will be to assist The Collider with awareness around ClimateCon 2018, their inaugural conference on the business of climate.

To learn more about the Stand Up Initiative, please visitdarbycommunications.com/standup or contact Megan Torgerson at[email protected].

About Darby Communications

A public relations firm dedicated to meeting and surpassing the needs of their clientele with customized PR and promotional programs, Darby Communications works with many of the outdoor industry’s most respected companies. The firm’s clients include Astral, Aventura, Ecōths, Feetures!, Granite Gear, Headsweats, Hyland’s, Industrial Revolution, Sierra Designs and Tailwind Nutrition. For more information, visit darbycommunications.com and on Instagram.

 

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AAC’s Recreational Permitting Mission

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Photo: Scott Thompson

Photo: Scott Thompson

The American Alpine Club recognizes how challenging it is for our members to obtain outfitter-guide permits for our National Forests. We’ve heard from climbers who are guides, belong to a regional mountain club and those who work for non-profits that teach climbing that the permitting system is overly complicated and can be a barrier to accessing our commonly-owned public lands.

The AAC is partnering with The Association of Outdoor Recreation & Education, The Wilderness Society, The American Mountain Guide Association and the U.S. Forest Service to simplify and streamline the recreational permitting process on USFS lands. 

Our goal is to assemble a cadre of climbers willing to engage with the Forest Service to improve the permitting system. We’d like you to join our team.

We will teach you about developments in the U.S. Forest Service’s permitting system—specifically the June 2016 guidance on recreational permitting— and the cultural changes underway within the agency. You will develop relationships with your regional Forest Service staff, understand how changes are being implemented and you will have the opportunity to share information with peers seeking access to our National Forests.

Sounds good right? If so, we ask you to carefully consider whether you can make the necessary commitments:

  1. Participate in a webinar training on the June 2016 guidance (April 2017).

  2. Set up a meeting with your local forest (April 2017).

  3. Meet with your local forest and write a short trip report to Maria Povec, AAC’s Policy Director (May-June 2017).

  4. Participate in a group discussion (by conference call) with our team about your experiences engaging with the forests (July-August 2017).

  5. Where appropriate, have follow up meetings with the target forest (remainder of 2017).

As former Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack says, “Our national forests and grasslands have provided inspiration and peace to millions of Americans.” Let’s work together to ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to enjoy our national forests, learn how to climb outdoors and to explore the vertical frontier safely.

If you’re interested in joining the project, please sign up through our Google Form. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact project lead Maria Povec: [email protected]