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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

Climbing Management Plans

The New Era of Climbing Management Plans & Regulations

Climbers gazing up at Middle Cathedral from the floor of Yosemite Valley. Yosemite was recently the scene of a new permitting process for big wall climbers. Lands of the Central Sierra Miwok peoples. AAC Member Bryan Meyer

5 minute read

The New Era of Climbing Management Plans & Regulations

Taylor Luneau, AAC Policy Manager

Across the country, people are flocking to recreate on our nations’ public lands in record setting numbers. Calico Basin, found within the world famous Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, experienced a 340% increase in visitation over the past decade. Across the West, peak season campsite occupancy rates have risen by an estimated 47% since 2014. The phenomena, which Colorado State University’s Public Land History Center is aptly calling “the Public Landemic” has been widely reported on and our climbing areas are feeling the pressure like everywhere else.

While the pandemic pushed people out of climbing gyms and up to our local crags, the climbing communities’ massive growth can also be attributed to, among other things, the explosion of climbing gyms across the country, the emergence of climbers at the Oscars, and the long awaited appearance of climbing in the Olympics—outcomes that naturally, we would all celebrate. But with growth comes growing pains. The flood of climbers into the outdoors is creating a tipping point for land managers who, due to lack of sustained funding and staff capacity, struggle to mitigate the increased stress on infrastructure caused by overcrowding. In response, the climbing community is experiencing a notable uptick in new regulations such as permit programs, timed entry and fee systems as well as other restrictions to our favorite climbing destinations.

Climbers at a busy crag at Calico Basin in Red Rocks Canyon National Conservation Area. These popular sport climbing areas outside Las Vegas, NV have seen some of the highest increase in use over the past 10 years. Lands of the Southern Paiute, & Newe peoples. AAC member Jon Glassberg

While I do not openly welcome any limitations on our communities’ access to climbing, I do understand that there are certain limits of unacceptable impacts to ecological and cultural resources as well as the recreational experience itself, that land managers are tasked with monitoring and mitigating. In the best case scenario, agency officials will make management recommendations that are supported by authentic community engagement, grounded in science, and adaptable to new information and recreation trends. Where in some areas a timed entry program may be a useful management tool, in others, that tool may be totally misapplied. This gets to the heart of why the AAC continues to fight for the public process and transparency embodied in the National Environmental Policy Act—the Magna Carta of environmental law and the legal basis that allows the public to comment on the management of our public lands. The land management programs that are being proposed to address overcrowding on our public lands must be tailored to the needs and specifics of the given landscape and its affiliated communities; this public comment process allows this to manifest.

Over the past year I’ve witnessed our community lean into this reality in a big way. Climbers stepped up to engage in difficult discussions on how to establish route development ethics in Ten Sleep (a plan that was recently abandoned due to US Forest Service staffing shortages), they provided critical insights on how our community interacts with wilderness climbing resources in Joshua Tree and Yosemite, they shared feedback on use patterns in Calico Basin, and they offered valuable knowledge on access points to Old Rag in Shenandoah National Park – just to name a few.

Advocacy doesn’t just happen on Capitol Hill. You
can always get involved with a trail maintenance or clean up day at your local climbing area. Here, climbers give back to the crags they love during the Smith Rock Craggin Classic. Lands of the Tenino peoples and Confederated Tribes of Warm Springs. AAC member Luke Humphrey

At several recent public hearings regarding management plans for climbing areas across the country (such as the Calico Basin RAMP/EA where hundreds of climbers showed up to share their thoughts) I’ve heard comments regarding these rules as stifling the spontaneous nature of climbing and limiting the freedom we’ve experienced as a user group for decades. These are valuable and important concerns that must be communicated to land management agencies. Climbers must actively engage in these regulatory discussions and call attention to when agencies can be doing better. In doing so, we can emphasize a deep understanding of our user groups’ distinct needs, movement patterns, and cultural values. When appropriate, we must hold decision makers accountable, and request they go back to the drawing board to reconsider their plans and evaluate their intentions.

We must also understand that growth in our sport is a great thing. Consider the many wild adventures and profound relationships that you’ve developed through your own climbing experiences. It’s well documented that recreation outdoors supports public health and wellbeing, not to mention endless economic benefits for local communities. As the AAC reflects on our own history, we’re challenging ourselves to be more inclusive and welcoming to a broader, bigger, and more diverse community of climbers. Welcoming a bigger community of climbers to the outdoors will undoubtedly make our advocacy for access challenging and nuanced, but our community will be more vibrant, rich, and dare I say more politically powerful because of it.

The era we live in as climbers is a unique one and represents a significant departure from the past. With management plans popping up across the country, we have an opportunity to ensure that our climbing areas are properly cared for, that access to these spaces is more equitable, that local Tribes have better opportunities to guide the management of their ancestral lands (there is still much room for improvement), and that the character of these important places continues to offer unique experiences for generations of climbers to come. The great thing is that climbers have done this before. We’ve worked hard to educate each other about respecting culturally sensitive sites, we’ve observed and successfully self enforced raptor closures, and we’ve stewarded the trails and local infrastructure at our climbing areas. We need to carry these successes forward.

Right now, a local climbing organization or AAC chapter in your area can undoubtedly use your help, your unique experience and your voice to protect our climbing areas. Many of these local advocacy groups have developed strong relationships with land managers and are currently assisting them with the management of local crags and public lands. I encourage you to seek out these groups, offer your time and professional expertise, join public meetings with land managers to share your insights, submit substantive comments on management plans, and look for action alerts from national organizations like the Access Fund and American Alpine Club. Through your efforts we may see our climbing areas change in positive ways, like newly graded roads, parking lots, bathrooms and more sustainably built trails — not to mention acknowledgement as an important user group and thought partner in the stewardship of our public lands.

The times are changing, but we don’t have to simply accept it for what it is. We can play a critical role in coming up with creative solutions alongside land managers. Your voice matters: get involved.

Hill to (the Original!) Crag: Advocacy at Smith Rock

On Saturday October 2, an array of land managers, local and state politicians, and Oregon business leaders joined climbing advocates for a day of recreation at Smith Rock State Park. The focus of the event was centered around the future of climbing in the Park, and how climbing positively impacts the economy and vitality of Central Oregon’s surrounding communities. This installment of the American Alpine Club’s Hill to Crag Initiative, presented in collaboration with Edelrid North America, has once again used the comradery and intimacy of a day at the crag to forage connections and honest communication with local and state politicians and land managers.  

The AAC’s policy team is committed to illuminating how federal legislation impacts climbers, and our most recent edition of the Summit Register Policy Zine dives deep into initiatives like 30x30 and Protecting America’s Wilderness + Act (PAW+), outlining how these policies can support climate action and conservation efforts that climbers care about across the United States. But the AAC is also well aware of the power of local communities, and how partnerships between climbers and local leaders can pave the way for lasting change. 

At this Hill to Crag event, Matt Davey, the Superintendent of Smith Rock State Park, spent the day alongside Oregon decision makers and climbing advocates, speaking about the challenges the Park currently faces and how we can all come together to work towards a sustainable future for Smith Rock. Due to the robust history of climbing at the Park, climbers had a large impact on the modern day stewardship of this landscape. He informed the group that many of the original trails in the Park were built and maintained by climbers. To this day, that has not changed, as organizations like the Smith Rock Group and High Desert Climbers Alliance take the lead on grassroots efforts to maintain and steward the Park. When asked what climbers can do to positively impact Smith Rock State Park, Davey noted that “the best thing climbers can do is get involved with one of the nonprofits like Smith Rock Group, or their local climbing organization the High Desert Climbers Alliance. Then together as a team they can come together and make the biggest impact.” 

After learning about the history of the Park and the challenges that exist with its maintenance, local leaders and decision makers were invited to try climbing. It was a very special experience to have professional climber and Edelrid Athlete Tommy Caldwell on belay as Bend County Commissioner Phil Chang and CEO of Economic Development of Central Oregon Roger Lee made their way up routes at the Monument Crag. 

Bend resident, renowned alpinist, and AAC board member Graham Zimmerman summed it up best as he witnessed one of his own County Commissioners climbing: “When I see the crew of folks we are hanging out with today I see progress taking place.” Zimmerman has made almost as many trips to DC to lobby in support of climate action and public lands protections as he has into the Karakoram over the years. 

“We’ve talked a lot about common ground and that’s pretty hard to do over a mahogany desk in D.C. whereas here, we are on the common ground. We are here enjoying this space together making experiences and memories. These are the foundations we can create policy change on and talk about initiatives we’re interested in, and create that diverse and equitable world we all want to live in,” Zimmerman said.

The day wrapped up at a climber owned and operated restaurant in Terrebonne called The Depot. Jamie and Evan, the owners of The Depot, moved to Central Oregon from the east coast after falling in love with the outdoor access provided by the region, specifically, the access to Smith Rock. According to the US Bureau of Economic Analysis, climbing contributed $5.8 million in gross output in 2019, contributing to the outdoor recreation economy’s total value of  2.1 percent ($459.8 billion) of current-dollar gross domestic product (GDP) for the nation in 2019. Showcasing local businesses that exist due to the access to climbing at Smith Rock felt like a special way to demonstrate the impact that climbers have on local economies too.

Due to the new connections and excitement of the day outside at Smith Rock, it was hard to corral the participants to their seats for the final presentations capping off the day. However, once seated, folks were captivated. Alan Watts, a local climbing legend and original developer of Smith Rock State Park shared the riveting history of how climbing in the region has changed over the years. Roger Lee dove into the economic impacts that outdoor recreation has on Central Oregon, and the exciting new businesses that have moved to the region based purely on the access to the outdoors that this corner of Oregon offers its residents. 

Lizzy Van Patten shared an inspiring presentation about the importance of shifting the narrative of “who climbers are” through increasing accessibility and inclusivity of the sport. Sharing her own story and that of her guiding business She Moves Mountains, based in Central Oregon, she concluded her presentation with a direct ask of our federal legislators: Help make permitting more accessible (and ultimately more inclusive) through the passage of bills like the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR) Act and the Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR) Act.  

“I think that ‘safe’ is not only something that means not hitting the deck. It also means creating safe spaces in which a diverse group of people can participate in our sport. Our systems are dialed for climbing. We know how to belay, how to place good gear, and how to bolt safely. So what we’re working on now is creating that safe space for a broad diverse community.” -Graham Zimmerman 

Thanks to the collaboration of these climbing advocates and local leaders, this Hill to Crag event highlighted that climbers are stewards of Smith Rock and many other climbing destinations; that the growing climbing and outdoor industry is an economic driver for many communities; and due to these factors and more, funding for public lands should be prioritized on the local, state, and federal level. After all, nearly 60% of climbing areas are located on public lands (AF Vertical Times).

““AAC’s Hill to Crag was a great community event on a perfect fall day in Smith Rock State Park. I appreciated getting to connect with local business leaders and climbing legends, and through conversation it was clear just how passionate folks are not only about their sport but also the power of outdoor recreation as a positive force for conservation and the local economy.””
— Cailin O’Brian Feeney, the Director of the Oregon Office of Outdoor Recreation
““As an elected official it was great to join the American Alpine Club and their network for this event to discuss outdoor recreation in my community – the fun and spiritual renewal it brings to us, the contribution it makes to the local economy, and the ways that local governments can support it. Many actionable ideas to steward the environment, enhance recreational amenities, and support my constituents came out of the day and I look forward to diving into that work.””
— Deschutes County Commissioner, Phil Chang

If you are interested in learning more about federal legislation that directly impacts our climbing community, check out the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR Act), Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR), and Environmental Justice in Recreational Permitting Act.

Big thank you to Edelrid North America and the Oregon leaders and changemakers who came out to spend the day with us:

  • Cailin O’Brien Feeney, Director of the Oregon Office of Outdoor Recreation

  • Matt Davey, Superintendent of Smith Rock State Park

  • Phil Chang, Deschutes County Commission

  • Roger Lee, CEO of Central Oregon Economic Development

  • George Endicott, Redmond Mayor

  • Krisanna Endicott-Clark, Redmond City Councilor

  • Priscilla Macy, Executive Director of Oregon Outfitters and Guides 

  • Adam Baylor, Public Information Officer for Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife 

  • Graham Zimmerman, Bend based climber, alpinist, and AAC Board Member

  • Lizzy Van Patten, Founder of She Moves Mountains

  • Alan Watts, Smith Rock Climbing Developer and Historian

  • Alan Collins, Smith Rock Climbing Developer

  • Rachel Greenwald-Rhoads and Maitreya Sriram of the High Desert Climbers Alliance 

  • Climbers’ Advocacy Network Volunteers: Alma Baste, Sam Masters, Greg Parker and Daniel Kroth

Next Interior secretary must show more respect for public lands

(Bonnie Jo Mount | The Washington Post) The Toadstool Hoodoos in Kanab, Utah, stand in an area that was removed from Grand Staircase-Escalante in Utah in October 2018.

By: Stacey Bare / for the Salt Lake Tribune

Published: February 1, 2019

At the end of 2018, Americans stood up for their national monuments in a big way, submitting over half a million comments opposing destructive resource management plans for Grand Staircase-Escalante and Bears Ears national monuments. Loud and clear, the American people have spoken: We are fired up to keep America’s national monuments intact.

December’s resignation of Interior Secretary Ryan Zinke is a chance to reflect on a new interior secretary’s path forward. Plagued by scandal and ethics investigations, Zinke initiated a disastrous “review” of national monuments. The public spoke up then, too, with nearly 3 million comments supporting national monuments. Zinke and the Trump administration ignored them and stripped protections from nearly half of the original Grand Staircase- Escalante National Monument, and from 85 percent of Bears Ears— designated in response to an historic request from five sovereign tribes.

Then we learned — from a series of Interior Department emails — that despite the administration’s public stance, the end goal was for expanded mining and drilling within the original boundaries of these monuments.

Like Zinke, I served my country in uniform. Zinke provided lip service about the healing power of nature and public lands. When he made those statements, I agreed with him. Like millions of other Americans and hundreds of thousands of veterans, I’ve found great healing and community on our nation’s public lands.

Unfortunately, the DOI is all too willing to deny the public’s access and pollute the very open-air clinics — our public lands — that so many need to heal from the everyday challenges of life, let alone the traumas of war.

In 2017, 10 years after leaving Iraq as a U.S. soldier, I returned there to ski in Iraq’s only national park. The Iraqis I met were rightfully proud of their beginning steps in land conservation and were excited to share the landscape with me; they even questioned me about the future of America’s national parks given the rhetoric they had heard from our current president.

Our legacy of protected public lands, owned by all Americans, is indeed the envy of the world.

Monument designation was intended to forever protect Grand Staircase-Escalante’s treasures for the benefit of all Americans, including hikers, hunters, anglers and future generations. Instead, we find ourselves in 2019 battling for a monument that is growing southern Utah’s economies: From 2001 to 2015, the region experienced population growth of 13 percent, job growth of 24 percent and personal income growth of 32 percent.

Nationwide, our public lands support an $887 billion outdoor recreation economy, including more than 7.6 million jobs, many in rural communities.

The recently proposed management plan would open 700,000 acres of formerly protected land to mining and drilling, despite multiple pending legal challenges and a shameful lack of meaningful consultation with the tribes. When public lands are leased, it becomes illegal to hunt, fish, hike, ride a four-wheeler or climb on them. More than half of oil and gas leases on public lands sit idle, but all of a sudden, what was once a place to experience freedom is blocked from your use.

All of this should inform the next Interior secretary, whoever it may be. Ryan Zinke’s successor must do what he failed to: Respect science and listen to the millions of Americans — including veterans like me — who support permanent protection of our national monuments. The new secretary must take seriously his or her role as steward of our nation’s iconic lands and drop plans that threaten rural economies and plunder our collectively owned lands. These lands have already been set aside for a higher and better use, and their protections must be permanently reinstated.

Stacy Bare, Sandy, is an avid skier, climber, rafter and a National Geographic Adventurer of the Year. He served our nation in Iraq and found healing and a path home on our public lands.

Stacey was a Director for the American Alpine Club’s Policy Committee from 2015 - 2018 and provided instrumental guidance and leadership during the early stages of the Bears Ears fight. Stacey continues to advise the AAC as a close partner and to fight for public lands protection.