The Alpinist Film

An Interview with Director Peter Mortimer

The Alpinist begins with an interview with Alex Honnold. The most popular climber in the world is asked who inspires him, and he responds “This guy Marc André Leclerc.” It’s fitting. Alex with his 2.2 million followers, doing an interview, probably promoting something, and he’s inspired by a climber who almost no one has even heard of. So who was Marc André Leclerc? Well, that’s what Peter Mortimer was asking himself too when he heard about this young climber in Canada, who was putting up bold, alpine solos. 

The AAC spoke with Peter about the new film and the incredible accomplishments of Marc André. 

“One thing I just love about Marc was the way he lived his life. He found this thing he loved, he followed it passionately, and he was really good at keeping his life simple, and getting rid of distractions. I was so inspired by Marc when I discovered him. It was amazing to see someone at that skill level who was just so unknown and unassuming and humble.”

It’s said many times in the film, Marc was from a different era. He rarely posted on social media, he only had one main sponsor, and he wasn’t motivated by popularity. 

One of Marc’s proudest accomplishments as a climber was his solo of the route Infinite Patience (2,250m, VI WI5 M5) on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson (3,954m) in Canada. When he did it, Peter and the film crew were in Canada, but Marc slipped away and did the climb without telling anyone. Only afterwards, did he allow the film crew to come back and shoot. 

This creates one of the most memorable moments in the film. The crew isn’t thrilled that they don’t have any footage of the incredible climb, but Marc casually explains to them that if anyone comes with him, it’s no longer a true solo. Marc André wanted a pure, solitary experience in the mountains, and that couldn’t happen with a cameraman in tow. 

When asked about that moment, Peter said “That’s my favorite moment in the film because I’m twice Marc's age, you know, I’ve filmed this guy and that guy, been doing this for a long time. But that’s when you realize, [Marc has] got this all figured out. I think I have a lot to offer [as a filmmaker], but he’s got nothing to gain from me. I have so much to learn from him and I’m along for the ride. That’s great. That’s exactly how it should be.”

Solo ice and mixed climbing is sure to get anyone’s heart racing, whether you’ve never tied into a rope, or you spend your winters in Bozeman. The footage of Marc soloing big ice routes around Canada and soloing the Stanley Headwall are truly mind blowing. The dynamic conditions that mixed climbing presents really adds to the element of danger. 

Peter said, “it’s terrifying when you’re up there. Seeing chunks of ice come down, you know, it’s such a dynamic environment and he’s just - so methodical. I think it was some of the most out there stuff for us to watch. I think what I love about that Stanley Headwall footage is with Marc, the more extreme the situation, instead of panicking and breathing hard, he slows down and just becomes more methodical.”

The film is slated for a full theatrical release on September 10th, and it truly has something for everyone. It’s detailed enough to appeal to a seasoned alpinist. Those climbers can truly learn from Marc’s methodical approach and attention to detail while climbing, but it’s also inspiring to a broader audience. Anyone who has felt the pull of spending time in the mountains can appreciate Marc André’s dedication and relentless pursuit of his dreams. 

Peter said, “I think the concept of climbing is so relatable because of this idea of having a goal, trying to get to the top, and overcoming obstacles. I think it’s probably why we keep making climbing films. I think anyone can relate [to Marc], to having a dream and doing what it takes to reach it, and enjoying the feeling of finally getting to the summit.”

Tragically, in March of 2018, Marc André passed away in Alaska after putting up a visionary first ascent on The North Face of the Main Tower in the Mendenhall Towers. The film does not shy away from the pain and loss felt by the climbing community, but specifically, the ones who loved Marc most: his mom, and his partner, Brette Harrington. Marc André had such a profound impact on so many people, including Peter and the rest of the film crew. Despite the sadness and loss, Marc André’s climbing partners and loved ones told Peter and the crew to continue to share the story of Marc’s amazing life. 

Peter said, “We really bonded with his family and his close friends. Everyone said, “you have to tell Marc’s story!” Once he was gone there was this feeling that he was so special, and nobody knew about him. They said it's up to you guys to share Marc’s legacy. Even his mom, she looked me in the eyes and said you need to tell his story. Marc was an incredible person and people need to know about him.”

Get your tickets now for a special one-night premiere Fathom event September 7 www.thealpinistfilm.com/tickets/ and see it in theaters September 10

For more info follow @TheAlpinistMovie or head to www.thealpinistfilm.com