Climb
Dougald MacDonald
Buried Treasure
Connect
Guest User
The Greatest Benefit to Membership
Educate
Guest User
K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

research

Researching Glacial Recession in Chilean Patagonia: A Story from the AAC Research Grant

Bernardo Fjord and one of the main locations for Scott’s research. Pictured are Bernardo Glacier (lower left), the refugio or cabin (lower center) and Lautaro Volcano, the highest point in Bernard O’Higgins National Park (top center).

Scott Braddock was awarded the AAC’s Research Grant in 2019 to study glacial recession in Patagonia. Specifically, Scott and his team were studying the Southern Patagonian Icefield. With the Southern Patagonian Icefield contributing a disproportionate amount of ice loss relative to the size of the icefield when compared with other mountain glaciers around the world, better understanding the mechanisms for tidewater glacier retreat in this region are critical for projections of future ice loss. Below is a quick summary of his project, and a report on the initial findings. 

Why This Research? Why now?

Like most glaciers around the world, the Southern Patagonian Icefield (SPI) is retreating in the face of rising atmospheric and ocean temperatures. The SPI is particularly susceptible to a changing climate because of its relative proximity to the equator and the fact that it is made up of low-elevation alpine and tidewater glaciers that are highly sensitive to changes in temperature and precipitation. Past studies have shown that ice mass loss from the Southern Patagonian Icefield contributes a large amount of water to global sea level rise, especially relative to the size of the icefield, with rates increasing in recent decades. However, how quickly the SPI is continuing to respond to warmer conditions and the primary mechanisms behind ice mass loss remain important questions to be answered. Scott’s team is attempting to investigate these very questions.

The research boat, the Aguilaf (bottom left), in Bernardo Fjord. In the background is Bernardo Glacier.

The glaciers of the SPI are located in Chile’s largest protected area, Bernard O’Higgins National Park (BONP), which hosts the largest known population of the endangered huemul deer–a species whose health is connected with recently-deglaciated habitat. Under the supervision of Coporacion Nacional Forestral (CONAF), limited in situ research exists in the BONP due to the frequent inclement weather, poor access, and only a handful of CONAF park guards and scientists to protect and manage a large area. Given the results of studies highlighting the accelerated retreat of the SPI in the past several decades, further work is necessary to better constrain estimates of ice loss and glacier stability as well as impacts on biodiversity in BONP.

The Grant Funded Trip & Moving Beyond Covid

AAC Research Grant recipient, Scott Braddock, in front of Calluqueo Glacier, San Lorenzo Mountain, Chile.

In October 2019, supported by research grants from the American Alpine Club, Churchill Foundation, and the Geological Society of America, Scott’s team traveled to Chilean Patagonia to sample ocean water in contact with several glaciers to understand how this interaction may influence rapid retreat of ice in the region. The team sampled water temperature and salinity at the surface and to depths up to 10 m and collected data on surface reflectance, suspended sediment and plankton in front of two tidewater glaciers, Bernardo and Témpano, in Bernard O’Higgins National Park, Chile. Results show a clear boundary between fresh glacial runoff and warm ocean water around 6 m depth close to the terminus of Témpano Glacier. 

Kristin Schild (left) and Scott Braddock (right) conducting CTD sampling in Témpano fjord. Photo by Fernando Iglesias.

In coordination with sampling efforts, Scott’s team set up time-lapse cameras overlooking both glaciers to track iceberg movement and try to observe sediment plumes and surface currents. Additionally, they witnessed one of the earliest-known glacial lake outburst floods (GLOF) in a summer season at Bernardo Glacier. 

In witnessing this event, it is clear that to fully understand this dynamic ice-ocean system, we need longer duration measurements to capture both episodic events (GLOFs) and persistent forcing (ocean warming). To aid in long-term monitoring of ice/ocean interactions and GLOF events in this region, Scott’s team facilitated an agreement between three organizations participating in this project—Coporacion Nacional Forestral (CONAF), Round River Conservation Studies (RRCS), and UMaine Ice/Ocean group to continue this research in the coming years by sharing logistical support, scientific equipment, and data. 

In the context of Covid, the collaborative nature of this project has been crucial to its continuity. The project included team members from three organizations and many backgrounds coming together to work in such a remote, challenging environment. The glaciology portion of this research project was designed and led by Dr. Kristin Schild, University of Maine School of Earth and Climate Sciences. The marine biology part of the project was designed and led by Raúl Pereda, a Marine Biologist with CONAF. Logistics, help with the science, and local knowledge and expertise were provided by Felidor Paredes, CONAF Park Guard and Fernando Iglesias Letelier, Chilean Program Director for RRCS.

Team members Raúl Pereda (left) and Kristin Schild (right) install a time lapse camera in Témpano Fjord to monitor sediment plumes and ice berg movement. Photo by Scott Braddock.

Like most international research, COVID has disrupted the US team’s return to Patagonia for the last two years. However, to keep the project moving forward, Scott’s team will ship equipment to Chile so that team members from CONAF can continue taking measurements of ocean water in front of these tide water glaciers to monitor how ocean properties are influencing glacial retreat of the Southern Patagonian Icefield as well as impacts retreating glaciers might have on the marine biology. 

A Snapshot of the Science Behind Glacial Recession:

The speed at which glaciers of the Southern Patagonian Icefield (SPI) flow could be driven in two distinct ways: from the top-down, or the bottom-up (Figure 2a-e). How fast the glacier moves or flows influences how quickly it retreats and thins over longer time scales.

In the top-down scenario, warm air temperatures melt the glacier ice and, when combined with precipitation, the glaciers are inundated with liquid water (Figure 2a). This water flows under the glacier, lubricating the interface between the glacier and the bedrock, and accelerates the speed at which the glacier moves due to a decrease in friction (Figure 2b).

In the bottom-up scenario, the warm ocean water melts all contacting terminus ice, undercutting the glacier at the waterline and facilitates iceberg calving, or breaking off more icebergs (Figure 2c,d). This removal of terminus ice decreases the amount of ice that the glacier has to move, thereby also leading to increased glacier velocities due to a decrease in back pressure (Figure 2e). 

Figure 2: Schematic illustrating the two end-member scenarios of glacier acceleration, top-down (a,b) and bottom-up (c-e). In top-down acceleration, water from melting ice and precipitation pools in crevasses and topographic lows on the glacier surface (a) until weaknesses in the ice are exploited and water flows between the glacier and glacier bed (b) reducing friction and leading to glacier acceleration. Bottom-up acceleration is initiated at the glacier terminus with warm ocean water melting away the glacier at the waterline, leading to an undercut terminus (c), which initiates subsequent mass loss through calving (d). This decrease in mass reduces the back pressure (e) leading to glacier acceleration.

While two distinct scenarios are presented above, a combination of mechanisms most often controls glacier acceleration. For example, recent studies in Greenland have shown that ocean warming has been the controlling mechanism in glacier instability while in Svalbard both ocean and air temperatures appear to balance each other in driving glacier change.

However, how quickly the Southern Patagonian Icefield is responding to warmer conditions and the primary mechanisms behind ice mass loss remain important questions to be addressed, that Scott’s project will hopefully illuminate over time.

“The research grant awarded by the American Alpine Club and other organizations made it possible for our team to collect preliminary data, create working relationships with CONAF and RRCS to ensure we are working alongside Chilean colleagues, and for us to apply for additional grants that will ensure this work continues for many years. We will be excited to share future results and info in the coming years as we finally are able to return to Chile and continue this important science in a part of the world that is so challenging to reach and conduct research. ”
— Scott Braddock

A Brief History of Research Funding at The American Alpine Club

In early 1916, the Charter and By-Laws of the newly incorporated American Alpine Club were unanimously adopted by the officers and associated members of the Club. The original “Objects” of the Club were representative of the tone of the early 20th century, when alpinists and mountaineers were beginning to explore alpine regions and looking to the Poles for exploration, research, and “firsts.” 

Fifty years after the Club’s formal incorporation, research was an official agenda item in all Board of Director meetings. At the May 5, 1966, meeting, the Board voted to approve a grant for snow sample collection in the St. Elias Mountains of Alaska:

The AAC-funded Icefield Ranges Research Project, continues to inform modern researchers looking into glacial retreat and climate change.

As climbing grew in popularity, the AAC broadened its mission to encompass the full scope of climbers and climbing environments. Throughout these shifts, we have maintained our support for research and scientific exploration of high alpine environments and treasured climbing landscapes. Today, research grants continue to be a critically important program at the Club. We have more than 100 years’ worth of AAC-funded research into alpine landscapes. This body of work provides a bedrock for future researchers to build on, particularly with regard to high alpine and glacial landscapes.

Our climate is rapidly changing and causing potentially irreversible damage to alpine environments and every year we see a greater number of proposals for research in these subjects. Our historical and ongoing funding of this work, speaks to our belief in evidence-based advocacy and our commitment to create positive change in the world by supporting this research. 

Current State of Research Grants

In 2016, we supported a research team’s effort to measure ice composition and thickness on the summit of Denali, through snow and ice core samples and the use of ground-penetrating radar. A member of the AAC’s Climate Change Task Force, and Director of Academics and Research at Juneau Icefield Research Program (JIRP), Seth Campbell, PhD., covered the expedition and challenges on his personal blog. He explains in greater depth their research process and findings. Plus, he has some great photos of researchers in action!

Funding from AAC research grants enabled the team to summit Denali and record baseline data from the highest peak in North America, which previously hadn’t been technologically possible. This research lays the groundwork for continued study and analysis of how alpine environments are changing. We can’t know for certain how today’s research will help determine the future of our planet, but we remain committed to working with scientists, researchers, climbers, and citizens regarding the “promotion and dissemination of knowledge.” The work happening now is invaluable for future scientists, just like the findings of the Icefield Ranges researchers in the 1960s informs modern analyses. Additionally, research-backed climate science informs the Club’s policy positions and provides a sound rationale for local and federal laws aimed at protecting alpine environments.

Research funding is still built into our endowment, and we have expanded the program by partnering with organizations like the National Renewable Energy Lab, Rockridge Venture Law, FourPoints Bars, and Kavu. These partnerships allow us to support more researchers and increase our average award amount. But it still isn’t enough. There is a growing need for further sound research into our changing climate and human impacts on the climbing landscape. That’s why we’re looking for more partners to help us support this work.

Moving Forward with Research Grants

Our recent national climber survey found that “88% of climbers believe climate change is happening now and is mostly caused by human activities.” At the same time, more people are recreating outdoors and causing their own impacts to these different ecosystems. Our AAC-funded researchers are helping us understand the very real impacts of climate change and increased human activity on these landscapes. 

We awarded funds for glacial research more than fifty years ago and are committed to continue funding these projects that help determine the scale of climate change and the ongoing effects of pollution, glacial retreat, and environmental degradation due to overuse. In addition to climate science, we fund research that looks at the sociological impacts of climbing on local and global levels. 

Looking ahead, we hope our research grants will fund work that directly impacts many areas of the Club. We look to fund research across disciplines, to better understand the climate, climbing landscapes, land access, human interactions, health and wellness, and more. Throughout our Club’s history, we have stayed true to our original objective of “the study of the high mountains of all America.” More than 100 years later, we embrace that directive and are proud to support a more comprehensive understanding of all aspects of the climbing universe.


Check out our website for more information about:

AAC’s Research Grants
2019 Research Grant recipients
AAC’s Climbers for Climate initiative
AAC’s Policy and Advocacy work


Email [email protected] with questions and to learn more about how to support this important work!

Caroline Bridges, AAC Grants Manager

AAC Climate Researchers: What are they up to now?

Seth Campbell and Kristin Schild are doing amazing work in the climate space. They are an important part of the AAC community and we’re lucky to have them in our corner. Seth is the director of the Juneau Icefield Research Program and a professor at the University of Maine. Kristin is a Postdoctoral Scientist at the University of Oregon. They happen to be married. Watch this video to find out what they’re up to now:

Trip to the Library, January 4th 2019

by Ron Funderburke, AAC Education Manager

At the top of this new year, I was doing some research on behalf of the American Mountain Guides Association. A question about the history of American guides came across my desk earlier last year, and I began making regular trips to uncover the overlooked and often sad history of American mountain guides prior to the professionalization of the trade. Many native guides were conscripted, and their local knowledge of mountain passes and mountain ways was never credited by the “pioneers” that exploited them. Anyone interested can check out the AMGA’s Guide magazine later this year for an article that summarizes my findings.  

On January 4th, I was pursuing this little mystery:

The American Alpine Club trained and certified American mountain guides? When was that? Why did they start that program? Why did the program end? Did AMGA replace this program?

To find an answer, I started with the first editions of the American Alpine Journal, and I scanned the records of all the Club’s proceedings. Proceedings include minutes from board meetings, secretary reports, and reports from gatherings and dinners. They’re pretty thorough. I came across proceedings from the mid-1930s that disclosed the emergence of American guiding services in the Tetons and Mount Rainier and findings of the AAC board that unified training and certification would be of value for aspiring professionals and for Americans that needed the services of a guide.

The proceedings detail the formation of a ‘Guides’ Committee’ and that committee began reporting regularly on its work. By 1940, the Guides’ Committee had run several trainings and certification exams, it had designed and distributed diplomas, and it had used these initial successes to begin planning more trainings around the country. The ‘Guide’s Diploma’ artifact that is pictured above is one of few remaining relics from this program.

What happened, you might ask? It’s difficult to know what would have happened to the AAC Guide Committee, and its training and certification scheme, had World War II not taken the entire climbing world in a different direction. After 1941 all proceedings of the Guides’ Committee were replaced with new and pressing work being done to support the American war effort, including the training, recruitment, and deployment of mountain soldiers. All the expertise American climbers could muster, and all the able-bodied soldiers that might have become guides, were enlisted in the war effort.

After the war, the guides program was taken up again in sporadic fits and starts, including some early versions of the American Mountain Guides Association in 1970. In each case, the proceedings document trainings and certifications in isolated regions of the country, and an ultimate inability to create a program that would have unified American professionals.

Additionally, I perused the Fuhrerbuch (guides log) of one of the first certified mountain guides in North America. Ed Feuz Sr was a certified Swiss Bergfuhrer (mountain guide), and he was recruited by the Canadian Pacific railroad to offer guided climbing at the mountain hotel and rail-stops along the track through the Canadian Rockies. Feuz had many American clients, and his careful record of their climbs is documented and archived. Near the end of his career, Feuz described how guided climbing had become unfashionable. It’s one of many clues I could find as to why the AAC guides committee only achieved sporadic success training and certifying mountain guides after World War II.

When our library professionals saw the nature of my research, they asked if I had seen the AMGA archives. As a long time professional member of the AMGA, I was intrigued to know what might be in those archives. I was not disappointed. I found reams of correspondence between the American Alpine Club, members of the AAC Guides’ Committee, guides and guide service owners, sponsors and consultants from the Alpine Club of Canada, the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides, and various representatives of European guides associations including the International Federation of Mountain Guides. I found lengthy treatises and pedagogical statements on the nature of American climbing instruction and education from the likes of Yvon Chouinard.

Together, the whole dossier chronicles a story about American guides that should resonate with any guide today. Guides had strong opinions about the standards to which they should be trained and certified. Guide services had strong opinions about how much certification schemes should cost and how relevant certifications would be to their operations. Climbers had strong opinions about the differentiation of guided ascents and non-guided ascents. Educators had strong opinions about how and why climbing instruction should distinguish itself from prevailing education systems of the times. With so many strong opinions and so many perspectives needed to create a system of professional guides education and certification, it’s no wonder the work of the AAC Guides’ Committee encountered so many obstacles. When strong personalities and strong opinions collide, consensus can be difficult to achieve.

Like many trips to the library, my quest to solve one little mystery unveiled new mysteries, and the questions I was pursuing are not generally of interest to climbers. It’s the kind of esoterica that you can’t uncover on Wikipedia. Thankfully, our library and our library professionals appreciate that little things will matter to someone, some day.  


Climbers and Climate Change: Trevor Bloom

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. We've asked several of these Researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Trevor Bloom recently earned his Masters of Science at Western Washington University in the Department of Biology. Trevor’s research is focused on quantifying the consequences of climate change and wildfire in high-elevation ecosystems. To do so, he conducted a field survey of the alpine wildflower “Spotted Saxifrage” (Saxifraga austromontana) where he and his climbing partner crossed the Rocky Mountains from New Mexico to British Columbia. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Trevor to find out more:

Q&A with Trevor Bloom

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Bloom: In my line of research, the consequences of climate change are very visible. Perhaps the most evident change is the recession and loss of glaciers throughout the central and northern Rocky Mountains. As these glaciers shrink each year less meltwater becomes available down-stream. As this happens, we’re seeing some of the largest wildfire years on record. Uncharacteristically high wildfire activity has increased 6-fold since 1970. People are directly affected by these wildfires through loss of natural resources, destruction of homes, health issues and increased risk to firefighters. We’re losing a lot of the diversity of life that is in the alpine.

Trevor Bloom (right) and partner Matt Kneipp (left) on the summit of the Grant Teton during field work (2015)

I observe how populations of a wildflower, the Spotted Saxifrage, change over time as a result of warming temperatures, changing climate and increasing fire frequency in the alpine. The evidence from the research is conclusive: wildfires are having devastating, potentially irreparable consequences on certain species in the alpine. As once relatively rare fire events become more and more frequent at high-elevation, unique alpine organisms face habitat loss and possible extinction. Species that exist nowhere else in the world may be lost forever!

Oulton: What is the most striking impact of climate change you've observed in the alpine?

Bloom: Entire landscapes have been altered by wildfires in the alpine. Most people don’t think that fire can propagate through the alpine, but once a wildfire reaches the tree line, it spreads like… well, like wildfire!

Fire in the alpine at the Bob Marshall Wilderness Compex, MT in 2012 

Also, the changes taking place in Glacier National Park completely blew me away. When the park was established in 1910 there were about 150 active glaciers, now there are fewer than 25, and may be zero before 2050. Once those glaciers are gone we can’t get them back, and we’re already beginning to see the consequences through increased summer drought and huge wildfires.

Oulton: Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Bloom: We need to take climate change seriously as individuals and as a nation. A tremendous part of that is being active in the political process so that our elected officials make positive climate policy decisions. The problem right now is that the new administration’s cabinet is being stuffed full of climate change deniers (not even skeptics!). This is very scary because climate change deniers comprise a tremendously small portion (<2%) of the scientific community. Many of these politicians have a long history of combating environmentally friendly policies.

It is critical to convince policy makers that this issue is important to us, to our country and to our world! The vast majority of the scientific community agrees that human actions are a driver for climate change. Unless policies are put in place, companies and individuals will continue to make environmentally insensitive business and lifestyle decisions that are convenient, but detrimental long term.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Bloom: First and foremost, we as individuals need to be informed and make informed decisions through voting and consumption choices. Your dollar goes a long way and your vote goes a long way. I think many people struggle with staying up to date on contemporary issues. A great way to do this is to join conservation organizations at all levels of policy. There is a litany of organizations from the local to the federal level that do the research regarding ongoing policy decisions and will offer great suggestions on how you as an individual can help out. Open their emails! Sign those petitions! Send those letters to your congressmen and women! Call them up on the phone! Show them you care! Stay up to date on contemporary issues, especially regarding climate change and public resource management.

A great example of this is the Outdoor Alliance. They regularly send out emails that provide information on policies that will threaten public land access/preservation at the federal level. Right now our access to climbing on state and federal land may be highly compromised! I’m willing to bet that there if you’re reading this, there is a local conservation group near your home that you can get involved in.

Lastly, be a personal steward to alpine environments. Stay on designated trails, respect closures, don’t pick the flowers or stomp on the tundra; these plants may be a hundred years old and fragile. Basically, respect Leave No Trace principles. If you allow these themes to guide your actions you’ll be taking personal measures to help preserve our beloved alpine. Share the outdoors and your values with others, especially the youth, so they too can make good decisions that benefit our environment. There is something so freeing about being in the mountains, but we must recognize it as a privilege that must be protected through good stewardship and political activism.

The beautiful Spotted Saxifrage (Saxifraga austromontana). Photo by Trevor Bloom

Oulton: All good advice! You're the creator of the "Climb-It Change" website and campaign. Tell us a little bit about it and your upcoming documentary.

Bloom: I’ve been working as a biologist for about 8 years now, which has involved writing peer-reviewed publications, discovering new species and generally investigating natural phenomena. However, I don’t feel like the science I’ve been doing has been communicated well with the general public, which is a critical component in preserving these species and places that I am very passionate about. The intention of the Climb-It Change documentary and blog is to present climate science and research in an approachable manner, to encourage people to get outside, experience nature first hand, and to help preserve our natural resources in a time of political peril.

The documentary follows my climbing partner, Matt Kneipp, and I as we traverse the entire Rocky Mountain Chain, sampling 76 peaks, rock climbing in six states and two Canadian Provinces, all while conducting field research on the Spotted Saxifrage wildflower that we detailed earlier in this interview. The documentary’s core purpose is to spread awareness about the climate change and increase in wildfire frequency that is happening in alpine environments. It is an adventure story and a method to educate a broader audience about the consequences of climate change in the alpine! So stoked. We expect a first release of the film in Bellingham, WA on Earth Day (4/22/17), followed by an internet release.

Oulton: We’re looking forward to seeing it! Thanks for chatting with us Trevor, good luck with the rest of your research and graduate program!

The Spotted Saxifrage in its high-alpine home. Photo by Trevor Bloom during his 2015 field season.

For more information on Trevor, his research/blog, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Trevor’s Trip Report for the AAC

Trevor’s Website

Trevor’s Contact: [email protected]

Climbers and Climate Change: Kristin Schild

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Kristin Schild is a 6th year Ph.D. student at Dartmouth College in the Department of Earth Sciences. Kristin’s Research focuses on understanding the dynamics of glaciers that terminate in the ocean (tidewater glaciers) in Greenland, Alaska and Antarctica. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Kristin to find out more:

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Schild: The vast majority of climate change driven ice loss (which translates to sea level rise) occurs from tidewater glacier systems. Understanding how and why these glaciers are changing, and the physical processes driving these changes, is crucial to predicting how they will behave in a changing climate. My research looks at a piece of this complicated puzzle, in particular how meltwater that is exiting a tidewater glacier influences the circulation of ocean waters adjacent to the glacier (in the fjord), and glacier terminus melting and stability.

Oulton: Your field work in Norway on the Kronebreen Glacier put you in an extremely remote location. What was that like?

Schild: My field season was about 3 weeks long, including travel. We were stationed out of a very small research base and would take a boat to the glacier each day. I’ve done a lot of work in polar regions, so I knew it would be cold, windy and that sometimes instruments wouldn’t operate in the cold, but this was my first time working from a boat which presented all new challenges. We had to wear full survival suits, including large steel-toed boots and full zip-up hoods, but collecting the data presented the largest challenge.

Kristin Schild performing field work in the Larsbreen Ice Cave.  (Svalbard, Norway - 2013).

We were collecting water samples with air temperatures of about -20 °F and with water temps of about -4 °F, so by the end of the day everything had a solid layer of ice around it - your gloves, the sampling bottles, all of your equipment - everything was frozen. We had to be very diligent to knock all the ice off the instruments between every sample to prevent inaccurate readings or sample contamination.

Oulton: Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Schild: I think the first challenge is that there is a tremendous amount of misinformation which results in people not knowing what to think anymore. We need to make information about climate change accessible and tangible to the general public.  As climbers, I’m sure many have seen their favorite ice climbs not come in, or a classic route up a mountain change because the snow bridges are melting out earlier each season; so the effects of a changing climate have been observed, however this is not necessarily the case for everyone.

The second challenge is that climate change itself is complex and far-reaching: there is no simple or single solution to climate change because it impacts so many different aspects of our environment and economy. Many people are focusing on adaptation and mitigation, versus curbing emissions, because those solutions seem simpler or more straight forward. 

Kristin Schild servicing a time-lapse camera to monitor the Hubbard Glacier (Alaska, 2011). Photo by Gordon Hamilton

However, if we don't make necessary economic and lifestyle changes to reduce emissions, we won't be able to mitigate and adapt fast enough.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Schild: There are so many choices, just in our everyday lives, which we can make to reduce our contribution to global emissions that won't hurt our economy (and, in fact, would help it). Many we’ve heard before: turn off the lights, take public transportation or ride your bike to work. But there is also the consumerism side: buy local products, buy energy efficient appliances, and reduce overall spending.

The real big one though, is to vote. Everyone should take the opportunity to urge government representatives and policymakers to support the development of renewable energies, the development of smarter/more efficient vehicles, and research into new technologies. The scientific community is working hard to understand how our planet is changing and on what timescales, but without the support of the government, there is a limit to what we can do.

Kristin Schild headed back to the helicopter after installing a high resolution GPS on Helmheim Glacier (Greenland, 2009). Photo: Gordon Hamilton

Oulton: Thank you. That wraps up out climate change questions. Let’s talk about climbing. Did you see anything in Svalbard that would be fun climbing?

Schild: The rock around Svalbard is all sedimentary rock, so it’s not ideal for rock climbing. However, the skiing is amazing, there are several ice caves, and ice climbing routes do exist! The views and terrain are quite variable, so I can only imagine any exploration being an incredible experience.

Oulton: Have you had any interesting wildlife encounters during field work?

Schild: While I haven’t had any personal encounters, I’ve certainly had some unplanned repairs because of them! One trip out to Greenland we found a few Arctic Foxes had eaten through our “fox-proof” cables connecting our solar panels to the GPS system. On another trip in Alaska, we found the housing for our time-lapse camera had been used as a scratching post by a bear about a week after setting up the system. Thus, instead of watching the glacier terminus advance and retreat, we now had a whole season’s-worth of pictures looking first at the bear, then at the ground.

Oulton: What advice would you give to someone who wants to visit Svalbard?

Schild: I would actually encourage them to visit during the late winter (February-March). It is absolutely bitterly cold and is just coming out of 24 hours of polar darkness, but there is an incredible peace in the darkness up there and the northern lights are the best I’ve ever seen.

Oulton: That sounds oddly amazing. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Schild: This past summer we were contracted by the US Geological Survey to install a survey marker at windy corner (measuring plate movement) and to determine the ice-thickness at the summit of Denali. Our group of four spent about 3 weeks shuttling all of our science equipment up Denali - equipment which included a rock drill, various different cold-temperature epoxies, a small car battery, as well as the high-resolution GPS system and ground penetrating radar (GPR) system. This was certainly more weight than any of us would take on a normal climbing trip! The day we summited and measured the ice thickness there was very poor visibility, so instead of taking pictures of the view, many other climbers took pictures of our group towing around the radar to measure the ice thickness at the summit. We later found out that everyone thought it looked like we were vacuuming the summit!

Oulton: You were able to climb Denali for science! Thank you so much for chatting with us, Kristin. We look forward to hearing about more of the results from your research!

Kristin Schild descending along the ridge traverse from High Camp to Camp 14 on Denali after completing a radar survey measuring the snow thickness at the summit (Alaska, 2016). Photo: Seth Campbell

For more information on Kristin, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Kristin’s Trip Report for the AAC

Kristin’s Dartmouth Profile

Climbers and Climate Change: Alice Hill

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Alice Hill is a 4th year Ph.D. student at the University of Colorado, Boulder in the Geography Program. Alice's research is focused on mountain hydrology, specifically the importance of snow and ice melt water as water resources for communities in Central Asia. Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Alice to find out more:

Q&A With Alice Hill

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers and non-scientists?

Hill:  Rivers in the Central Asia region are sourced from snow and ice melt in the mountainous countries like Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan and then they flow across borders downstream. Changes to glaciers and snow in a warming climate suggest that this region might experience water vulnerabilities in the future. I am trying to quantify that potential water vulnerability. This region is already politically tense for a variety of reasons, and water resources could be a spark for conflict.

Oulton: Many people consider that region to be volatile and dangerous. After your experience, how do you respond to this pre-conception? Is it justified?

Hill: In rural communities we experienced generous hospitality and positive interactions. In remote alpine areas our Kyrgyz colleagues were more concerned about our safety from packs of wolves than from the people who live in those areas. In urban areas we didn’t feel unsafe, although we did pay attention to State Department warnings that were issued.

Alice Hill below the toe of the Karabatkak Glacier, Kyrgyzstan.

The highly bureaucratic systems were challenging and at times made me feel vulnerable. There are a different set of cultural norms that I didn’t understand. I wasn’t privy to the bribing culture, even for tasks as simple as getting your luggage on an airplane. Not speaking Russian, Kyrgyz or Tajik, there was a challenging language barrier. Thankfully our in-country partners were there to help us as both translators and negotiators.

Oulton: It’s nice to hear that there are good people in these places. Looking forward, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing the issues of climate change?

Hill: For me, the biggest challenge with climate change is getting our new leadership to actually buy-in that it is happening. I am anxious that the new administration will be led by people who choose not to believe that climate change is real. That, to me, is the major concern because they are the ones who affect what policies we adopt and what kind of role model we want to be to the international community. I’m trying to stay optimistic.

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Hill: As westerners, we all make individual choices that affect our climate. Indeed, all of us need to make individual lifestyle changes to holistically make impactful change. There are many positive individual decisions we can make on a daily basis: riding a bike, or taking the bus, living in a smaller house, taking shorter showers, buying local food.

The question is, to what level are we willing to inconvenience ourselves? We’re so used to having this highly convenient lifestyle and we need to be willing to sacrifice some of that for the sake of our local and global community We need society scale buy-in for individual changes to collectively have an impact.

Oulton: Absolutely, do you think that leading by example in our communities is effective?

Hill: I think that’s certainly one of the most important ways to do it. I know I’m affected and inspired the most by my friends that ‘walk the walk.’ I think role-modeling is an important piece of the solution.

Alice Hill (center) and fellow CU researchers Alana Wilson and Cholpon Minbaeva (both left) were greeted with kindness and incredible hospitality by the locals in the Kyzyl Suu Basin, Kyrgyzstan.

Oulton: Great, thank you. That covers our main questions on climate science and impact. Let’s talk about climbing. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Hill: While working in the field as an instructor with NOLS, there was one route that was especially memorable; a traverse across the Northern Patagonian Icefield. Patagonia is one of those places where you have to really lean into the uncertainty of the terrain and weather, among all the other variables that climbers are used to. Case in point, my co-instructors and I wanted to try a traverse that included an unmapped “blank” area on the map. This blank spot had no mapped topographic information because the photographic glare off the glacier surfaces prevented aerial photographs from being used to discern terrain information.  So we basically had little idea what was in store around the next corner until we got there.

We were feeling pretty good about the route after getting up-and-over what we thought was going to be crux of the traverse. We dropped down into a glacial valley and thought we could just run the valley out to the main glacier to get a food re-supply. As it turned out, we were perched on top of this buttress at the head of a steep sided valley with a Class VI cascading river running down the guts.

After days of scouting, we found a route out we were fairly confident we could use to descend. We rappelled down the buttress and pieced together this really steep, thick bushwhack to curl around a ridge. Upon finally reaching our re-supply location, we discovered there was nothing there.  At this point we were totally out of food, eating spice-kit soup, and mostly going off mate fumes. We walked out another day to the only other logical place the food supply might be. Lo-and-behold there it was... We set up camp, rested, and literally ate for two days.

Oulton: You are quite the leader, Alice. Thank you so much for talking with us today. Good luck with your research and the rest of your doctoral program!

Alice Hill taking water samples below the Karabatkak Glacier, Kyrgyzstan.

For more information on Alice, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Alice's Trip Report for the AAC

Alice’s CU Boulder Profile

Climbers and Climate Change: Nathalie Chardon

Did you know the AAC supports cutting-edge scientific research? Through the Research Grant program, we provide funding to multiple researchers across the country every year. The scope of work Our Researchers conduct is broad, but a common thread among many of them is investigating the effects of climate change. A timely topic, we've asked several of our researchers to sit down and chat with us about climate change, their research and their climbing. 

AAC member Nathalie Chardon is a 4th year Ph.D. student at the University of Colorado, Boulder in the Environmental Studies Program. Nathalie's research is surveying alpine plant species on popular trails on many of Colorado’s “14’ers” (mountains with summits greater than 14,000 feet). Jonathan Oulton, AAC member and geologist, spoke with Chardon to find out more:

Q&A With Nathalie Chardon

Oulton: Why is your research important to climbers?

Chardon: My research is largely focused on how plant communities in extreme environments respond to human disturbance. Without a clear understanding of how these communities respond to increasing human traffic, we can’t effectively conserve these areas.

Areas that may have been relatively untouched in times past (e.g. alpine ecosystems) are especially vulnerable to negative impacts from human disturbance. As climbers we are frequent visitors to these sensitive regions and thus have the responsibility to be aware of the consequences of our actions.

Oulton: Looking ahead, what do you foresee as the most significant challenges to addressing climate change?

Chardon: I anticipate there being two primary issues to solving the climate change problem. (1) A lack of funding for long-term climate change research, and, (2) A lack of public knowledge on what processes are actually happening. This ends up leading to political decisions, from the citizen to the senator level, that don’t support scientifically backed claims.

Relatively quick climate change impacts will occur on 10-, 20-, or 50-year timescales. To conduct thorough research on these impacts, we need consistent funding over the same time-scales. Our current political/economic system typically focuses on short term profits, perhaps 5-year profits at the most. Resultantly, obtaining that kind of funding is extremely difficult.

Nathalie Chardon surveying plant communities at ~13,500 feet on Mt Belford

Alpine sunrise on Quandary Peak during Nathalie's field work

Oulton: A common sentiment is that "the actions of an individual can't influence an issue as massive as climate change." This attitude is dangerous, as it can lead to complacency. What actions can an individual take to have a positive, real influence on climate change?

Chardon: I disagree firmly with that sentiment. Anyone can have a huge impact on reducing greenhouse gases. My recommendation boils down to three things: buying local food, drastically reducing waste, and driving only when necessary.

Consider for a moment how far most food needs to travel to make it to your table, and how much fossil fuel is burned to accomplish that. Multiply that by 3 meals a day, 7 days a week, every single month, etcetera, and pretty soon you’ve racked up an extensive fossil fuel bill.

If you do these three things, you will drastically reduce your greenhouse gas emissions! This would be incredibly impactful, because greenhouse gases directly ‘fuel’ climate change.

Oulton: That makes sense, thank you. That wraps up our main climate change questions. You’ve spent countless hours doing research on Colorado’s 14’ers. Do you have a favorite/least favorite 14’er?

Chardon: My least favorite is Bierstadt, it’s depressing to me how the trail has become a highway. Choosing a favorite is harder… I think it must be the South Side of Mt. Elbert, from the Black Cloud trailhead. The whole hike is super steep with spectacular views, I absolutely love it! Over the two times I’ve been up I think I’ve only seen four people total. You’re so removed.

Oulton: Have you had any ridiculous tourist interactions on Colorado’s 14’ers?

Chardon: For my field work I’ve built a 1x1 meter grid that I can assemble on-site, but that means when I’m hiking I have four white poles sticking out my pack. It’s an unusual sight. The two funniest inquiries I’ve had are “Is that a hang gliding get-up?” and “Are you carrying a volleyball net?”

Nathalie's field assistant, Clea Berholet, assembling the surveying grid on Grey's Peak

Oulton: That’s fantastic. What is one of your most memorable climbing experiences?

Chardon: Climbing limestone tufas in Kalymnos, Greece. Hands down, it was incredible. I’ve never experienced any climbing like it, ever. Ever. The moves you make there have nothing to do with climbing as I knew it. At one point, I put my feet against one tufa and my back against another – it was the only time I’ve taken a no-hands-rest on an overhung route. I loved it!

Oulton: If you were given a 3-month, all expenses-paid climbing trip, where would you go/What would you do?

Chardon: Well, I would do two things. I would start out sport climbing near Yangshuo, China, where they have those huge limestone arches. Then I’d take some time in the Karakoram Range, Pakistan to do some SkiMo (Ski Mountaineering), without a doubt. Let me know if that trip ever happens!

We’ll keep you posted, Nathalie! Thanks for chatting with us.

For more information on Nathalie, her research, and other AAC Research Grant recipients, please see the following links:

AAC’s “Meet Our Researchers” Webpage

Nathalie’s Trip report for the AAC

Nathalie’s CU Boulder Profile

A New Political Climate: What's Next for Climbers?

As climbers, we have a unique connection to public lands and our environment. Beginning with its early founders, the American Alpine Club has a long history of environmental conservation and ethics, wilderness management and the scientific exploration of mountain regions.

The recent election has brought uncertainty about the future of our public lands and our environment. While our membership is politically diverse, we can agree that as a climbing community we bear a responsibility for protecting the places we climb and for protecting our right to clean air, clean water, healthy forests, rivers and deserts. Our mutual admiration for climbing and climbing landscapes unites us and transcends partisanship. Together we are stronger. And together we can do a lot of good.

Here are some of the ways we can get involved in protecting the places we climb and working toward our vision of healthy climbing landscapes:

  • Stay informed: For public lands information, follow our partners at Outdoor Alliance. Learn about the latest environmental science with Yale Climate Connections, Protect Our Winters and NRDC. For updates on what Congress is up to, subscribe to The Hill.

  • Learn how to be an advocate: Check out OA's Advocacy 101 series. 

  • Act locally: Engage with your local AAC Chapter and organize a trail stewardship day. Apply for an AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant. Connect with your local land trust, work with your local city council on sustainability initiatives, find ways to volunteer.

  • Reduce your carbon footprint: Carpool to the crag. Ride your bike to work, walk or take the bus when possible. Reduce your water usage, reuse and recycle. Support clean energy sources.  

  • Learn about AAC’s researchers and the work they’re doing on alpine science. Applications for research grants are open from November 15-January 15.

  • Tell us about your local stewardship work so we can help spread the word.

AAC’s second president John Muir once wrote, “The mountains are calling and I must go and I will work on while I can, studying incessantly.” Most people don’t realize that quote doesn’t end with “and I must go.” Muir saw responsibility and purpose as well as pleasure in the mountains. So do we.