BMC International Climbing Meet Calls For Participants

AAC member Shay Skinner on Fear of Infection E4 6a, Llanberis Pass. Photo: @Alexmessengerphoto

AAC member Shay Skinner on Fear of Infection E4 6a, Llanberis Pass. Photo: @Alexmessengerphoto

We have the opportunity to send two (one female and one male) experienced trad climbers to this exciting British Mountaineering Council event in May. Preference will be given to climbers who have not attended a BMC International Meet before. 

The 2017 BMC International Summer Climbing Meet will be located at the Count House in Cornwall, a 200-year-old building perched above Cornwall’s finest granite cliff, Bosigran. Participants will get access to presentation, clinics, and climbing with diverse local partners. 

Check out the application (due January 30) and more information.

 

Will You Go Out With Us? AAC to #OptOutside

Dear AAC members,

We have a great opportunity that we would like to offer to you! As you may have heard, our friends at REI are closing again on Black Friday to #OptOutside and we are joining them and our friends at Camber Outdoors—a nonprofit looking to bring more diversity into the outdoor industry and to the outdoors. The intention is to encourage our friends and networks to join us by opting out of shopping and opting into getting outside.

We are giving out a small number of grants on behalf of REI and Camber Outdoors between $50 - $250 to support your outdoor adventures on Black Friday. 

If you are interested, please fill out this brief application by November 6.

Program Details:

  • Must be a Camber Outdoors Community Member (don't worry, it's free) and encourage all your friends to join. Events or outings on November 25, 2016
  • Application dates: October 31 - November 6; Notified by November 10
  • Event date: November 25, 2016
  • All grant recipients required to sign the terms agreement.

Selection Process:

  •  We will select applications in which at least least 50% of the group participants are women. Preference given to women-led activities
  •  Any size group is acceptable
  •  Preference will be given to events that h
  • ave a wide audience reach
  •  There are no restrictions on what outdoor activity you choose.

Grant details:

  • Use the funds to enable your friends, colleagues, community to celebrate, participate, activate in an outdoor activity on November 25, 2016
  • Funds may be used to directly support the activity
  • Applicants will need to provide a high - level budget in application
  • Funds will be distributed via check once you are accepted
  • Please keep the details of the grant confidential.

Social Media Promotion:

  • Must utilize and promote the #OptOutside hashtag and “Will you go out with me?” campaign call-to-action in all of your social channels between October 31 and November 25, 2016 only
  • Read through social media toolkit and use to assist with promotional content (we will share with winners)
  • Include "#OptOutside@ REI@ CamberOutdoors” on all social media posts
  • Keep Camber Outdoors updated on your great stories or activation plans.

After the event:

  • Provide an estimated number of individuals that Opted Outside through their micro-grant to Camber Outdoors no later than December 5, 2016
  • Submit recap of participation highlights to Camber Outdoors no later than December 5, 2016.

AAC Annouces 2016 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Recipients

The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2016 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI, Clif Bar and CamelBak. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. "The Cornerstone Conservation Grant has helped us with many projects over the years— composting toilets, graveled parking lots and a graffiti removal initiative,” said Southeastern Climbers Coalition Executive Director, Cody Roney. “We greatly appreciate the American Alpine Club for providing this grant to make our LCO projects come to life."

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members. Congratulations to our 2016 Cornerstone recipients. 

 

2016 Anchor Replacement Fund Recipients Announced

The AAC and Access Fund are pleased to announce the 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure, and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem. We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support fifteen fixed anchor replacement projects across the country.

https://americanalpineclub.org/press-releases-1/aac-and-access-fund-announce-2016-anchor-replacement-fund-grant-awards

This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.

New AAC Grant for Advanced Athletes

We're proud to announce a new climbing grant, the Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant, an evolution of the Lyman Spitzer Grant, seeks to fund advanced and capable climbers planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. 
 
Cutting Edge awards are intended to more significantly contribute towards total expedition costs. Awards will typically fall in the $5,000 to $15,000 range. Learn more.

AAC and the Alliance for Sustainable Energy Powering Alpine Research

Kristin Schild in her survival suit and field gear collecting samples out of a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) in Kongsfjorden, Svalbard, Norway. She is studying the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and its influence on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Photo: K. Lindbäck

Kristin Schild in her survival suit and field gear collecting samples out of a Rigid Inflatable Boat (RIB) in Kongsfjorden, Svalbard, Norway. She is studying the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and its influence on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Photo: K. Lindbäck

The Alliance for Sustainable Energy, which manages the National Renewable Energy Laboratory (NREL) in Golden for the Department of Energy, has partnered with the American Alpine Club to provide AAC Research Grants. The Alliance will contribute $5,000 to future grants and provide technical support for their administration. These grants will support clean energy and other scientific endeavors in mountains and crags around the world. Grant winners provide vital knowledge about our climbing environments and enrich our understanding of environmental impacts.

The AAC Research Grant application opens on November 15 and closes on January 15. Learn more about the club’s grants program and how you can apply: https://americanalpineclub.org/research-grants

Read the Press Release.

Ueli Steck Speaker Tour is Coming to City Near You!

The AAC is excited to announce a speaking tour with legendary speed climber Ueli Steck!

This fall the AAC is partnering with Alpina Watches to bring Ueli 'The Swiss Machine' Steck to 10 cities across the country. Ueli will present a visually stunning and interactive slideshow about his experiences climbing the world's largest mountains, setting speed records without oxygen, his daring 82 Summits Challenge and recent trip to the Himalaya.

Read the press release or get your tickets, before they sell out!


2016 Athlete Tour Presented By:


Climber Falls During Alpine Mentors–AAC Pacific Northwest Program in Waddington Range, British Columbia

BRITISH COLUMBIA, JULY 28—At approximately 3:00 p.m. PT on Sunday, July 18, a climber associated with the Alpine Mentors–AAC Pacific Northwest Program fell while ascending Serra 2 in the Waddington Range of British Columbia.

Local rescue teams, military, Royal Canadian Mounted Police, and Global Rescue have all been notified and are involved. Royal Canadian Mounted Police is on scene. The remaining two members of the team have safely descended.

Alpine Mentors–AAC Pacific Northwest Program is currently contacting family members of those involved. Additional information will be provided when it becomes available.

UPDATE 07/29/2016: Read the full press release here.

Forest Service Eases Access for Groups

The next generation climbing on our public lands. Photo credit: AAC's Ron Funderburke

The next generation climbing on our public lands. Photo credit: AAC's Ron Funderburke

Our national forests provide awe and inspiration for millions of climbers. Their vertical playgrounds capture our spirit of adventure and challenge us to dig deep for our best selves. Today, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack and U.S. Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell announced that they will make it easier for outfitters, guides, schools and non-profits to take groups into our national forests. This announcement begins an important turning point in climbing access. Historically, individuals and organizations that teach climbing have faced challenges in obtaining permits from the USFS. They are often subject to significant fees, commercial use authorizations, and other requirements. The American Alpine Club has long been advocating for reforming the system.

The education and mentorship provided by guides, outdoor leaders and instructors are critical for the development of competent climbers who travel light on the land. We believe that individuals and organizations that teach climbing should have easy access to the land they need for classes. Doing so will lead to a greater appreciation for public lands and will help cultivate the next generation of stewards.  “We need to be active in meeting a changing population of climbers and other visitors to our National Forests. Good instruction gives people the skills for a lifetime of enjoyment they can pursue safely and with the knowledge to care for the land we all love,” says Phil Powers, AAC CEO.

The Forest Service states that its new, streamlined approach to special-use permitting will be implemented over time and will make it easier and faster to receive or renew permits. Steps being taken include:

  • Increasing consistency in the permit process across the country.
  • Increasing use of allowable waivers when a special use permit is not required.
  • Investing in technology, including an electronic permit application process.

However, sufficient funding is critical to making it happen. Without the resources to implement these steps, land managers won’t have the capacity to process new permits. Budget cuts on top of the growing costs of fighting wildfire has come at the expense of the staff who administers permits. We still need Congress to pass a real budget fix. A fire funding solution will help ensure that the USFS will be able to welcome those who want to learn how to climb through instruction on public lands.  We take our responsibility for caring for these lands seriously and we applaud the Forest Service’s efforts. 

Past President Nick Clinch Passes Away

Nick and his books at his home library. Photo: Clinch Collection

Nick and his books at his home library. Photo: Clinch Collection

Past president and legendary expedition leader Nick Clinch has passed away today at the age of 85. Beyond Clinch's important role in the history of American mountaineering, his devotion to the AAC helped the Club thrive over the 62 years of his membership. He was a driving force behind the Club's library and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch.

“Nick certainly contributed much to climbing in America. He was a brilliant expedition leader and a wonderful diplomat. But I think most of his contributions were behind the scenes,” said CEO Phil Powers. “He was always there with the counsel to get us through the hard decisions. I have benefitted from knowing a number of the great men on whose shoulders we stand as climbers today—but I’ll miss none more than Nick.”

Nick, thank you for everything you did for the Club and climbing.

Read more about Nick's many accomplishments: http://bit.ly/24RSeqH

Nick Clinch and team on Hidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Kauffman Collection

Nick Clinch and team on Hidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Kauffman Collection

AAMEE team back at McMurdo (left to right) Standing: Evans, Wahlstrom, Clinch, Corbet, Schoening. Kneeling: Hollister, Silverstein, Marts, Long, Fukushima. Photo: 1966 AAME team

AAMEE team back at McMurdo (left to right) Standing: Evans, Wahlstrom, Clinch, Corbet, Schoening. Kneeling: Hollister, Silverstein, Marts, Long, Fukushima. Photo: 1966 AAME team

A new year, a new name!

This is a big year for Accidents in North American Climbing.
You read that right: We’ve updated the name of Accidents to reflect the evolving nature of modern climbing.
 
Nearly two-thirds of the incidents covered in Accidents each year involve rock climbing instead of mountaineering. And the great majority of new climbers and new AAC members—the ones who will benefit most from this book’s educational lessons—are primarily rock climbers. As the name suggests, Accidents in North American Climbing is a resource for ALL climbers.
 
That’s not all that’s new in Accidents. For the first time in the book’s nearly 70-year history, we’ll be publishing in full color this year. Thanks to our dedicated and growing team of volunteer regional editors, we have more reports than ever. And the new Sharp End podcast, based on the stories in the pages of Accidents, is growing by leaps and bounds.
 
Get involved! Encourage your climbing partners to read Accidents in North American Climbing. (Current AAC members will receive the 2016 edition this August.) And if you value our work, consider supporting Accidents with a donation