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AAC News

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AAC and Yosemite National Park Sign General Agreement and Formalize Partnership 

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Photo by AAC member Dawn Kish

By Byron Harvison, AAC Director of Policy and Gov’t Affairs

On August 2, 2023, the American Alpine Club entered into a General Agreement with the Yosemite National Park Service with the goal of supporting and promoting climbing in Yosemite Valley. This new formalized partnership is built upon a strong foundation of working together for decades—including on projects like the Yosemite Big Wall Permitting Program, Climber Coffee, sponsoring Yosemite Facelift, and the United in Yosemite festival. This opportunity will allow the AAC to assist the climbing management program at YNPS with public outreach, offer subject matter expertise on climbing stewardship matters, and identify other projects and services which could benefit the Park and climbing community—building on the long established and well-loved climbing iniatives that will continue to exist in the Park.

The AAC has a long history of supporting climbing within the Park and working with Park staff to educate climbers on issues related to climbing in the Park, identifying areas of historic significance, such as Camp 4, and promoting volunteerism. This General Agreement represents the AAC taking on a more formal role. At a time when visitorship of Yosemite National Park, and most National Parks, is at an all time high and park budgets are not being increased to meet the demand, relationships such as this can help bridge the gap.

Key among the intended responsibilities of the Club is the continued refinement and encouragement of responsible climbing practices and stewardship of the climbing areas and infrastructure supporting climbing activities within the Park. This could include working with the Park on impact mitigation projects, maintenance, and construction of climbing related structures or trails, and coordinating and informing volunteers to assist with those projects when appropriate. The Club will assist in the distribution of safety information, closures, and informing the community regarding Park-specific regulations. This work will also include educating climbers on the ins-and-outs of the recently  instituted Big Wall Permitting Program, which is a free self-registered permit that is required of all climbers overnighting on big wall climbs. Park staff will look for the AAC’s input on climbing-ethics related issues such as how to address gear-dumping, fixed lines, and storage on top of climbs for top-down attempts on the walls as opposed to embracing the ground-up ethos.

The AAC worked closely with the YNPS staff on the Agreement to outline the areas the Club can have the most impact on the climbing community and the Park, and coordinate work with other organizations such as Yosemite Conservancy and the Yosemite Climbing Association. We greatly appreciate the attention the climbing management program at YNPS has given this matter, and the enthusiastic support from Yosemite National Park. We are thoroughly excited about the opportunities this historic agreement makes possible!

Learn More from our Interview with Head Yosemite Climbing Ranger Jesse McGahey


For Media Enquiries

American Alpine Club Contact, Vice President of Marketing and Communications
Shane Johnson, [email protected] or 303-384-0110

Yosemite National Park Media Contact
Scott Gediman, [email protected] or (209)742-3519

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Appeal Aims to Protect California’s Pine Mountain, Reyes Peak from Controversial Logging Project

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Reposted from the press release of Los Padres ForestWatch

Conservation groups filed an appeal on September 19th in the 9th U.S. Circuit Court of Appeals to cancel a controversial logging and vegetation clearing project atop Pine Mountain and Reyes Peak in Southern California’s Los Padres National Forest.

The appeal seeks to protect a remote ridgeline important to Indigenous groups, climbers, hikers, and other outdoor enthusiasts concerned about the future of this popular forest. In 2022, a coalition of conservation organizations filed lawsuits against the Forest Service on the grounds that the logging and chaparral clearing project would violate environmental laws, harm vulnerable wildlife, and do irreparable damage to the ecology of the forest.

“This logging project would devastate some of the most diverse and unique habitats in the Los Padres National Forest,” said Hans Cole, vice president of Environmental Activism at Patagonia. “Pine Mountain is 90 minutes from our headquarters in Ventura and the area is important to our employees and customers because of its outdoor recreation opportunities including rock climbing, hiking and camping. We will continue advocating for more conservation of Los Padres National Forest.”

The appeal seeks to overturn a U.S. Forest Service decision to cut mature trees and grind native chaparral across 755 acres on Pine Mountain. The project area — equivalent in size to 575 American football fields — is on ancestral lands of the Chumash, who call the mountain ‘Opnow. It is historically and culturally important to Indigenous people, popular with locals and tourists for a range of recreational activities, and home to old-growth conifer forests and unique ecosystems.

“Commercial logging and other activities allowed under the Reyes Peak Project would do irreparable harm to vulnerable wildlife and pristine areas of the forest,” said Maggie Hall, Deputy Chief Counsel at the Environmental Defense Center. “This appeal is critical to protect this beautiful natural place and prevent logging companies from exploiting a sacred cultural site.”

“Today’s appeal seeks to hold the Forest Service accountable for exploiting loopholes, disregarding public input, and threatening irreparable damage to one of our region’s last remaining mature and old growth forests,” said ForestWatch executive director Jeff Kuyper. “We are asking the Ninth Circuit to set aside this dangerous approach that places our forests, our climate, and our communities at risk.”

The U.S. Forest Service approved the logging and clearing in 2021 amid widespread criticism, with more than 16,000 people opposing the project. Indigenous groups, ecologists, archaeologists, retired U.S. Fish and Wildlife and Forest Service scientists, local business owners, dozens of conservation organizations, elected officials, and others requested major changes to the project and an environmental review before moving forward. Most commenters were concerned about using heavy equipment to cut large, healthy trees, possibly using a commercial timber sale. Forest Service officials dismissed these concerns and did not make any changes to the project.

“Most of the current science finds that removing trees from forests creates a hotter, drier, and windier microclimate that actually increases overall severity in wildfires,” said Dr. Chad Hanson, forest ecologist with the John Muir Project of Earth Island Institute.

“The climbing areas and landscape at Pine Mountain deserve to be protected and preserved in order to allow future generations to discover and enjoy the many recreational opportunities the area offers,” said Byron Harvison, Director of Policy and Government Affairs at The American Alpine Club. “Pine Mountain's storied history in local climbing lore, as well as its unique topography and biology, deserve a closer analysis before the terrain is changed forever.”

Last year the groups sued the Forest Service in U.S. District Court, saying the project would violate environmental laws, harm vulnerable wildlife, and damage intact roadless areas in the forest. The groups alleged violations of the Healthy Forests Restoration Act, National Environmental Policy Act, Roadless Area Conservation Rule and National Forest Management Act. In July a federal judge ruled against the groups and allowed the project to proceed.

“Pine Mountain represents a uniquely special environment for its high elevation ancient conifers, its views to our offshore islands, and its variety of recreation opportunities,” said Keep Sespe Wild conservation director Alasdair Coyne. “Logging these old growth conifers will do nothing to protect homes from forest fires, as there are no buildings for miles around.”

“Pine Mountain includes some of Southern California’s last remaining roadless areas, including beautiful old-growth forests that provide crucial wildlife habitat,” said Justin Augustine, a senior attorney at the Center for Biological Diversity. “These forests deserve to be protected, not logged. We’re relying on the appeals court to stop this reckless project.”

Groups filing the appeal are Los Padres ForestWatch, Keep Sespe Wild Committee, Earth Island Institute, and American Alpine Club, represented by the Environmental Defense Center; and the Center for Biological Diversity, California Chaparral Institute, and Patagonia Works, represented by the Center for Biological Diversity.

Transforming the Conditions for the Send

Saturday Session panelists Kareemah Batts, Roshni Brahmbhatt, Lyndon Cudlitz, Ady Wright, and Tommy Caldwell.

The 2023 Annual Benefit Gala

Together we laughed, cried, and celebrated this incredible community.

At this year's AAC Gala, the energy for advocacy was unprecedented. You could feel it in the room, the energy to transform the conditions for the send. At the AAC, we know there are a mess of things impacting the send, not just the weather! Bigger picture—climate change, equitable climbing access and inclusive community, the conservation of public lands, ever evolving climbing management plans, and education for climbers—are all impacting our climbing. At the AAC, we're fighting to transform those conditions in order to protect the heart of climbing—the people and places who make climbing so special. At this year's Gala, the climbing community turned out in force to support and celebrate this transformation.

Climbers near and far came together to celebrate the boldness that is crucial for our climbing endeavors and advocacy. We were joined by Former Vice President Al Gore, the Full Circle Everest Team, and a room full of AAC members, industry leaders, and climbing stars.

Dive deep into an unforgettable night in climbing, below!

Transforming the Conditions for the Send
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We've Signed the Indigenous Field Guide, Here's Why

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PC: Dawn Kish. Recreating at Oak Flat, land sacred to the San Carlos Apache Tribe.

When we were first asked to sign the Indigenous Field Guide pledge, we as an organization were challenged by how broad many of the tenets were, and how they were inconsistent with many of the current practices of climbers today. While some of the tenets of the pledge ring familiar with Leave No Trace Ethics, such as respecting rock art and staying on trails, other elements of the pledge—such as refraining from rock stacking, or seeking permission to share geographic locations from local Tribes—initially led us to a place of defensiveness. However, we also recognized this reaction should be seen as an impetus to really examine what the pact meant, and why we were reacting in this way.

The AAC has decided to sign onto the pledge, and we’re happy to share why.

Coming from a perspective of Western thought, we are accustomed to taking pacts such as these literally, assigning truth to every word, and were thus afraid we would be signing it performatively. We feared that we would not be able to fully comply with the pact, and instead would continue the pattern of broken promises experienced by Indigenous Tribes since the days of early settlers.

However, through multiple and overlapping conversations with the writers of the Indigenous Field Guide, we came to understand the spirit of the pledge and the value of committing to it despite our hesitations. Fear of failing would only prevent us from growing.

For example, we learned through various discussions with the writers of the pledge that the deepest importance of the imperative to seek permission before sharing coordinates is about protecting undefended Indigenous archeological and cultural sites that are as yet unrecognized or do not have conservation protections. This imperative is a manifestation of the last and most comprehensive directive from the Indigenous Field Guide writers: “I promise that exploration and first ascents are never more important than cultural resources.”

The AAC has a long-standing practice of publishing GPS coordinates of new routes in order to fulfill our mission of supporting and informing climbers. In fact, the sharing of GPS coordinates seemed a step in the direction of inclusion, so that no one developer or elite climber would “hoard” or gate-keep knowledge of a particular climbing area and make climbing that much less accessible for many people. Yet we had not considered how in certain cases, such sharing of coordinates can threaten areas of cultural significance to Indigenous peoples, with increased traffic threatening the spirituality of the sacred place, increasing erosion, and increasing potential defacement. 

In addition, we learned that the request to not stack rocks is not a ban on cairns, but rather a way to highlight that the land should be as untouched as possible, and remain exactly as it is, unless steps are necessary (such as marking a trail in wilderness areas) in order to accomplish that goal of minimal impact. Specifically, balancing rocks and creating rock gardens in rivers and streams can destroy fish habitats in the immediate vicinity and downstream. 

We as an organization have signed the Indigenous Field Guide Pledge and have started examining how we can transform our internal practices to align with what we have learned. By committing to the pledge, we are committing to staying in the conversation as we move forward collectively. What does that look like for us, the AAC?

  • We continue to encourage climbers to be conscientious of their impacts on land and people.

  • Moving forward, the American Alpine Club strongly encourages grant applicants to consider the locations of their pursuits, and when possible to seek out consent from local Tribes before climbing and before publicly sharing coordinates. For many of the grants, having the endorsement of local Tribes will be a condition for the grant to be awarded. 

  • In cases where publication of coordinates might draw large numbers of new visitors to an area, the editors will urge contributors to our publications to consult with local Tribal leaders about the sensitivity of the area and any potential impacts.

We encourage our members and community to learn more here and to sign the pledge for themselves, if they likewise see value in holding themselves accountable to learning and recreating with this context of Indigenous knowledge. 

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The AAC Podcast Wants Your Craziest Climbing Stories!

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Photo by AAC member Joe Virtanen

Have you ever taken a 100-foot fall into a cactus, and walked away with basically no injuries? Taken a whip on a can of pinto beans, just to see what would happen? Or had to deal with a bullet wound while out climbing, like Aubrey Runyon discusses in our recent podcast episode “CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 Pitches in Eldo”? Maybe it’s the biggest whip you almost had to take, or an encounter with an alpine ghost…whatever it is, we want to hear the stories of your craziest day while climbing.

We’re not necessarily asking for your worst crag stories ever, or stories of accidents in the backcountry, though that might be wrapped up in all the crazy. But tell us the most absurd, completely out-there stories that you can think of, and we might feature your story on our podcast!

One of our episodes in January will feature the stories of AAC community members like you. Make sure to submit your stories before January 1st 2023 to get the chance to be featured.

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Join Us! We're Hiring

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We're Hiring for our Policy and Climb United departments, and we couldn't be more excited.

People—climbers—are our lifeblood.

And climbers have an intimate relationship with the land we recreate on. You can't disentangle the climber from the climbing.

With that understanding in mind, we're linking and expanding our DEI work and policy work so that these initiatives work in tandem. Moving forward, Climb United and our Policy team will be working hand in hand to accomplish the AAC's advocacy and equity objectives.

Learn more about the team, how to apply, and our vision:

Join Us
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The American Alpine Club Announces 2022 Cutting Edge Grant Recipients

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PC: Priti Wright, K6 Central

March 2022

The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond Equipment are pleased to announce the 2022 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club's 100-year tradition and seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Four recipients have been awarded a total of $37,000 for this cycle, with objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality being looked upon with favor. Black Diamond Equipment is a proud sponsor of the Cutting Edge Grant and a key partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism.

PC: JThompson

Chantel Astorga will receive a grant for $10,000 to attempt a new route on Lunag Ri (6,895m) in Nepal. Chantel, alongside Anne Gilbert Chase & Jason Thompson will hope to establish a new line on Lunag Ri in alpine style. Chantel recently grabbed the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge in under 15 hours on Denali in 2021. Anne, Jason, and Chantel established a new route on the unclimbed SW Face, Mount Nilkantha (6,500m), India in 2017.

Jerome Sullivan will receive a grant for $10,000 to attempt the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6,850m) in the Pakistani Karakoram. Pumari Chhish East is one of the major unclimbed technical summits of Karakoram. Located on the Hispar glacier, it presents three characteristic granite pillars and a 2,000m face. Jerome will attempt the climb alongside Martin Elias, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto. Recently the team climbed K13 west by the new route Harvest Moon. Jerome & Jeremy did the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia) and the first ascent of Pyramid Peak in the Revelation Range (Alaska).

Alan Rousseau will receive $10,000 to attempt an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7,710m) in Nepal. Given its aspect, elevation, and sheer scale (3,200 vertical meters), Jannu is considered one of the most complex alpine objectives in the world. The upper north face headwall has yet to see an alpine style ascent. Jackson Marvell will join Alan on this attempt. Jackson & Alan climbed a new route on the east face of Mount Dickey Ruth Gorge Grinder (1,600m, M7, AI6+) and repeated Trailer Park on London Tower (3,000' WI6, M6), both located in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range.

Priti Wright will receive $7,000 to attempt a new route on K7 in the Pakistani Karakoram. Priti & Jeffrey Wright will attempt the unclimbed peak K7 Central (6,858m) by establishing an entirely new technical route in alpine style. During Priti and Jeff's first Karakoram expedition, they were successful in establishing the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in 2020.

FA of K6 Central, Priti and Jeff Wright. PC: Jeff Wright.

The American Alpine Club has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. From funding the first ascent of Mt. Logan in 1925 and the exploration of the Karakoram in 1938 to the 2006 first ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, and the countless expeditions in between, the AAC has stood to encourage climbers to push their physical and mental limits, supported their pursuits, and celebrated their accomplishments.

The Cutting Edge Grant continues this tradition, aiming to fund advanced climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant is sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, whose equipment has helped climbers and alpinists to reach their summits for decades. Black Diamond Equipment is an integral partner in supporting climbers of all abilities and disciplines, with a long history of supporting climbers and their dreams through grants like the Cutting Edge Grant.

Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30.

Contact:

Shane Johnson, Chief Marketing Officer: [email protected]
Eddie Espinosa, Community Programs Director: [email protected]

About American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Climbing; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, Samuel F. Pryor Shawangunk Gateway Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member
at americanalpineclub.org.

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Introducing the 2022 American Alpine Club Awardees

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Each year, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has the honor of presenting its prestigious Annual Climbing Awards to outstanding climbers, conservationists, and volunteers. This year’s awards include Sean Bailey, Natalia Grossman, Rick Reese, Pat Ament, John Kascenska, John Heilprin, David Nyman, and Joe Terravecchia.

The awards will be presented at the AAC Annual Bennefit Gala on March 26, 2022 in Denver, CO.

Honorary Membership

Arlene Blum & Steve Roper will be awarded honorary memberships this year. "Both are “household” names in the climbing community and have distinguished themselves over many years in the mountains through their pioneering leadership of difficult ascents and in areas of the arts and science in mountain related endeavors.

The Robert Hicks Bates Award

Sean Bailey & Natalia Grossman will receive the Robert Hicks Bates Award which honors young climbers who show "outstanding promise for future accomplishment." The selection committee wanted to focus on competition climbing. Sean won two lead world cups and a boulder world cup in 2021, while Natalia won the boulder world championships and won two boulder world cups.

The David R. Brower Award

Rick Reese will be awarded The David Brower Conservation Award. Rick co-founded the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, now the leading conservation group fighting for the protection of this over 4.5million acre iconic ecosystem comprising nearly a dozen mountain ranges. Rick was clearly one of the most important western conservationists of our generation not to mention a bold, tenacious and accomplished pioneer climber and former climbing ranger.

The H. Adams Carter Literary Award

The AAC Literary Committee will award Pat Ament he H. Adams Carter Literary Award. Pat would have 30 books published, approaching 200 magazine articles, and 25 pieces selected for various international anthologies of best climbing writings – more than any other person. His writings include many poems in literary magazines. President emeritus of the AAC, Jim McCarthy, has called Pat "the poet laureate of American climbing writing."

Angelo Heilprin Citation

John Kascenska & John Heilprin will be awarded the 2022 Heilprin Citation for their "exemplary service to the Club." John Kascenska joined the American Alpine Club in 1996 and for many years has volunteered with several Club activities. John Heilprin served on the board of directors from 2012 to 2018.

David A. Sowles Memorial Award

David Nyman will be awarded the David A Sowles Memorial Award for the eight-day ordeal to rescue/evacuate Jim Sweeney from the base of the Elevator Shaft on Mt. Johnson in 1989. The award is conferred from time to time on mountaineers who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains.

Please join us at the Annual Benefit Gala on March 26, 2022 in Denver, CO to hear from the awardees

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Introducing the American Alpine Club Podcast: Episode 01

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Designed by Jeff Deikis

2 min read

The American Alpine Club Podcast: Our Vision

That’s right. You can now take a deep dive into your favorite American Alpine Club content via your headphones, car stereo, and more. The drive to work—or your favorite hang board routine—just got way more interesting. Episodes will typically fall into four categories: Climb; Protect; Educate; Connect.

Climb episodes will be just that—about climbs big and small, and the things they make us realize, in conversation with AAC community members.

Protect episodes will dive into the nuances of policy and advocacy issues that matter most to climbers.

Educate episodes will span the logistics of safety and accidents, as well as the history of climbing and how it can inform our present.

Connect episodes will cover the social side of our climbing community, including important conversations about equity and inclusion that have emerged from our work with the Climb United initiative.

Check back here, the AAC Stories Archive, to find the latest episodes and show notes, and subscribe to the American Alpine Club Podcast at your favorite podcast source: Soundcloud, Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Google Podcasts.

Episode 01

Protect: An Interview on Climate with Graham Zimmerman and Jill Pelto

“Graham Zimmerman is an alpinist and climate advocate–scaling the highest mountains in the world and energizing climbers around taking action to fight climate change. Jill Pelto is a climate artist whose aesthetic tactics of combining climate data with artistic expression is striking and thought-provoking. In this discussion, the AAC dives in with Graham and Jill about communicating the intricacies of climate change, climate impacts they’ve personally witnessed in the mountains, what motivates them to advocate, and why it matters to climbers so damn much.”

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2021 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Recipients

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As we look ahead to the future of climbing and the availability of outdoor recreation opportunities for all, the American Alpine Club’s (AAC) Cornerstone Conservation Grant represents our commitment to supporting local climbing communities in their conservation and restoration initiatives.

More individuals, families, and groups are spending time in climbing areas and landscapes, causing added environmental stress and degradations to these places. We look to local climbing communities to identify areas in need of conservation, restoration, and educational resources for visitors.

The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant, powered by REI, formally launched in 2011 with the goal of funding projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources across the country. Since that first year, we have awarded over $250,000 to local climbing organizations (LCOs), land managers and agencies, nonprofits, and individuals for projects as varied as building or improving trail networks to climbing areas; establishing new toilet facilities and signage at trailheads; and deploying a variety of community groups for clean-up and graffiti removal at local crags.

2021 Winners:

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance - Jacobs Ladder Reroute to Lone Peak Cirque

$2,000

The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, with support from the Salt Lake and Pleasant Grove Ranger Districts, are proposing a reroute on a steep section of unsustainable trail to Lone Peak Cirque known as Jacob’s Ladder. This multi-use trail is perhaps the worst in the Wasatch with erosion up to six feet deep!

Boulder Climbing Community - Avalon Climbing Area Access Trail Project Phase II

$5,000

BCC will reroute the main approach trail accessed by crossing Boulder Creek. The current approach trail quickly leads up a dirt slope that is continually eroding due to user traffic and environmental impact such as water runoff. BCC will realign this approach trail, building a sustainable and durable path within the talus field, ensuring that continued user traffic no longer erodes the vegetated hillside.

Mohonk Preserve, Inc. - Promoting Low Impact Climbing

$3,000

Mohonk Preserve’s increase in climbing activity in recent years have necessitated extra steps for the preservation of climbing areas to avoid environmental damage and climbing accidents. This grant will fund an educational information campaign based on Low-Impact Climbing and Leave No Trace principles to ensure that climbers have the skills to engage with the environment mindfully. 

Carolina Climbers Coalition - Bald Mountain Creek Preserve Bouldering

$3,000

In 2020, the Carolina Climbers Coalition began working with Southeastern Trust for Parks and Land (STPAL) to develop a strategy for publicly permissible bouldering access on their 750 acre preserve called the Bald Mountain Creek Preserve. Located near Burnsville, NC, the Preserve contains 45+ boulders with approximately 250 problems. The Preserve has three boulder fields; McKinney Gap, Weaver Knob, and Buckhouse. With funds from this grant, we hope to build a parking lot that will open the Weaver Knob and the Buckhouse Boulders, and we hope to aid our C4 Trail Team with funding. Currently, Weaver Knob and Buckhouse Boulders do not have any parking and can not be opened to climbing without parking and trail infrastructure.  

Durango Climbers Coalition - Animas City Mountain restoration initiative

$5,000

The funds requested will be used to help La Plata County install two trailhead signs, and three wayfinding signs as well as match a potential grant request from the Access Fund for the development of a tool cache which will allow the DCC to complete necessary trail improvements at X-Rock and other climbing areas near Durango.

Southeastern Climbers Coalition - Education Signage Updates at SCC-owned Properties

$2,000

SCC owns and manages 8 climbing areas across Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia. The climbing community continues to grow and more climbers are visiting our properties for the first time, therefore the need for clear signage and accurate property maps is vital to the long-term sustainability of our climbing resources. Using the results from our 2020 resource inventory project, we have identified the need for boundary and trail markers, access road signage and kiosk updates relative to each location. We are partnering with University of Tennessee's IGT lab to create new property maps at several of our climbing areas. SCC is seeking funding to hire a graphic designer to help with design updates as well as to cover the cost of sign printing and installation.

CRAG-VT (Climbing Resource Access Group - Vermont) - CRAG-VT Stewardship Cache Project

$2,500

CRAG-VT is seeking funding to support the procurement of stewardship supplies to match our greatly increased level of volunteer activity. Grant money will be used for purchase of tools, a shed, and stewardship day event materials.

Washington Climbers Coalition - Washington Climbers Conservation Initiative

$2,500

A beginner crag close to a major metro area has seen heavy impacted over the last 4 years. This multi-year project plans to address this by performing trail reroutes, closing none sustainable trails, and installing steps upper steeper portions of the area.

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Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica

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Bienvenido a la inauguración de la edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing. 

Desde 1949, American Alpine Club ha publicado este libro anualmente. Nuestro objetivo es ayudar a que nuestros lectores escalen de manera más segura, es por eso que compartimos historias y lecciones de accidentes de escalada en todo Norteamérica. Hoy, con esta traducción hecha por primera vez del libro de Accidentes, buscamos compartir estas lecciones con escaladores de habla hispana en todo el mundo. 

Los reportes en este libro documentan y analizan accidentes de escalada técnica y de esquí de montaña que ocurrieron durante el 2019. No incluimos todos los accidentes de escalada, no obstante, intentamos reportar los incidentes más educativos. (Las “Tablas” en la parte trasera de este documento brindan información básica de más accidentes). La traducción al español es un poco más corta que el libro en Inglés. Sin embargo, todos los reportes que hemos publicado en inglés se pueden encontrar en publications.americanalpineclub.org. 

Nuestros traductores utilizaron los términos y frases de escalada que se escuchan más frecuentemente en México. En el futuro, planeamos incluir un glosario de términos de escalada empleados en varios países de habla hispana. 

Adidas Outdoor patrocina generosamente Accidents in North American Climbing en español. Estamos muy agradecidos con adidas por apoyar la educación de escaladores en todo el mundo. 

Favor de compartir este PDF con amigos, cordadas y organizaciones de escalada. Las correcciones y solicitudes para enviarnos reportes de accidentes en México, Estados Unidos y Canadá son bienvenidas. Usted puede ponerse en contacto con nosotros por medio del correo: [email protected]. 

Le deseamos una escalada segura y feliz.

Welcome to the inaugural Spanish edition of Accidents in North American Climbing! 

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This book has been published annually by the American Alpine Club since 1949, sharing stories and lessons from climbing accidents throughout North America. Now, with this first-ever translation of the Accidents book, we aim to share these lessons with Spanish-speaking climbers throughout the world.

The reports in this book analyze technical climbing and ski mountaineering accidents during the year 2019. The Spanish edition is slightly shorter than the original English book. You can find every report we’ve ever published, in English, at publications.americanalpineclub.org.

Our translators used the climbing terms and phrases commonly used in Mexico. In the future, we plan to develop a glossary of climbing terminology for various other Spanish-speaking countries and regions, including Puerto Rico. 

This project received generous sponsorship from adidas Outdoor. We are very grateful to adidas for supporting the education of climbers around the world. 

Please share this PDF with your friends, climbing partners, and climbing organizations. For more info, contact us at [email protected].

¡Descarga el libro aquí!

Este PDF se puede descargar de manera gratuita. Favor de compartirlo con amigos y cordadas.

Los Voluntarios

La edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing fue traducida por un equipo muy dedicado de voluntarios de tres países. Sus nombres están enlistados a continuación. ¡Sin ellos, esto no habría sido posible!

Download the book here!

The Spanish PDF is free to download. Please share this book with your friends and climbing partners.

Volunteers

The Spanish edition of Accidents in North American Climbing was translated by a hard-working team of volunteers in three countries. Their names are listed below. We could not have done this without them!

Omar Gaytán, director 

Symon Ardila

Austen Bernier

Bernardo Beteta

Néstor Y. Durán Nungaray

Alma Esteban

Tiffany Hensley

Molly Herber

Jasna Hodzic

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Statement on Bolting Petroglyphs Near Moab, Utah

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We unequivocally condemn the recent actions at Sunshine Wall, near Moab, Utah that compromised the integrity of petroglyphs, sacred Indigenous cultural artifacts.

It is essential that climbers understand the significance of petroglyphs, not only as a window into the past but as an ongoing and vital part of Indigenous culture and identity to this day, and are committed to protecting these sacred sites. The cultural and spiritual value of these places cannot be measured, and we firmly support efforts to protect them. We are currently reaching out to our friends and partners in the local and national tribal, climbing, and land management communities to discuss how to best proceed with the current situation and prevent such instances from occurring again.

Signed,

American Alpine Club
Access Fund
Friends of Indian Creek
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Western Colorado Climbers’ Coalition

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The American Alpine Club launches Climb United initiative

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The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce Climb United, a new initiative centered around convening climbers, climbing organizations, and industry brands to transform the culture around inclusivity. Current partners of the Climb United project include REI, Eddie Bauer, Mammut, The North Face, and Patagonia.

We are excited to launch the program with a draft of Principles and Guidelines for Publishing Climbing Route Names developed by the Route Name Task Force, composed of a group of publishers and climbing community members. The Guiding Principles will serve to establish an agreed-upon philosophy toward publishing climbing route names, while the Guidelines provide an evaluation and management system for addressing discriminatory route names. The AAC will host a public forum on the draft guidelines on April 21 at 6 p.m. MDT to engage the community and encourage questions and feedback. You can also provide feedback on the draft guidelines via this survey.

Participants in the working group include Alpinist Magazine, Climbing Magazine, the Climbing Zine, Gripped Magazine, Mountain Project, Mountaineers Books, Sharp End Publishing, and Wolverine Publishing.

In February of this year, the AAC surveyed climbers and found that over 82% of respondents believe it is important that the climbing community address diversity and inclusion within the sport. Additionally, over 77% of respondents believe it is important to address discriminatory route names to make climbing more welcoming to all people, regardless of race, ethnicity, national origin, age, range of abilities, sexual orientation, or gender identity.

AAC CEO Mitsu Iwasaki described the importance of the Climb United project, "Our climbing culture, which I have been a part of and contributor to for nearly 30 years, has, without mal-intent, created spaces that have been hurtful and uninviting to many. I am grateful through Climb United, we (brands, publishers, and climbers) have come together with an abundance of humility to engage in difficult and necessary conversations to evolve, elevate, and ensure a vibrant future for climbing."

The AAC recently hired Climb United Director Cody Kaemmerlen to help guide the project. Kaemmerlen shared his excitement about joining the initiative as the Climb United Director, “I’m honored to serve the climbing community that I care so deeply for and to help all folks find their way to this sport. The crags, mountains, and remote summits continue to bring me a lifetime of memories and relationships. I understand the enormity of the barriers that exist, and I’m excited to push extra hard to help break them down.”

Climbers can also follow along with Climb United’s progress via a timeline of past projects and future goals.

Learn more about Climb United at climbunited.org

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AAC Announces 2021 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

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Photo credits: Kurt Ross of Jess Roskelley on Baba Hussein, 2018 Cutting Edge Grant Recipient

Photo credits: Kurt Ross of Jess Roskelley on Baba Hussein, 2018 Cutting Edge Grant Recipient

The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond are pleased to announce the 2021 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition and seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2021 grant cycle, Black Diamond is a proud sponsor and partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism. $25,000 has been awarded to six recipients.

Ryan Driscoll will receive a grant to attempt the North Face (aka The Medusa Face) of Mount Neacola in Lake Clark National Park, Alaska.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt the unclimbed 6,000-vertical-foot West Face of Ganesh I (7,422 meters/24,350 feet; also called Yangra). This Himalayan giant is the highest peak in the Ganesh Himal in eastern Nepal, on the Tibetan border. The mountain has only seen one recoded ascent, from the north in 1955. Himalayan historian Damien Gildea described the objective as “one of the biggest unclimbed faces in the Himalaya.”

Matthew Cornell will receive a grant to attempt the West Face of the North Horseman, and the West Face of Pyramid Peak in Alaska's Revelation Mountains.

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt new routes on the North Face of Melanphulan (6,573 M) and the South Face of Nuptse in the Khumbu Region. Musiyenko had previously been awarded the Cutting Edge Grant in 2020, but the expedition was postponed due to COVID-19 travel restrictions.

And lastly, Sam Hennessey will receive a grant to attempt the East Face of Jannu East.

The Cutting Edge Grant is sponsored by Black Diamond, who’s equipment has helped climbers and alpinist to reach their summits for decades. Black Diamond is an integral partner in supporting climbers of all abilities and disciplines, with a long history of supporting climbers and their dreams through grants like the Cutting Edge Grant. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit americanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant

For more information on Black Diamond, visit blackdiamondequipment.com

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Partner In Adventure Grant Recipients Announced

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What is the Partner in Adventure Grant?

The Partner in Adventure Grant, created in collaboration with TINCUP Whiskey, funds educational opportunities from local guide services for you and your partner to take your pursuit to the next level. Open to duos of all experience levels, the grant will award partners up to $1,000 for the educational opportunity of your choice.

2020 TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant Recipients

The American Alpine Club and TINCUP Whiskey are pleased to announce the winners of the 2020 TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant. In total, $20,000 was awarded to 20 partners in adventure.

A partner in adventure is there with you as you dream up the next big pursuit. They encourage you to push beyond your comfort zone and motivate you to explore the world in ways that are meaningful to you. They galvanize you to take on new challenges, grow your skills, and imagine new adventures, by their side.

Congratulations to the 2020 grant winners, and cheers to the many adventures that await them.

  • Madeline & Katie – AK | NOLS Wilderness Emergency Medical Technician 

  • Kit & Emma – AK | Avalanche Professional 1 Course

  • Angela & Emily – NY | Multi-Pitch Climbing

  • Mick & Kaiwen - WA | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course & Mt. Baker guided climb

  • Daniel & Jessie – OH | Introduction to Mountaineering - Mt. Washington, 3-day guided climb

  • Geoffrey & Dave - MA | Introduction to Mountaineering - Mt. Rainier, 4-day guided climb

  • Alex & Jason – ID | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Marissa & Mary – AK | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Shauna & Idaliza – AZ | Introduction to Mountaineering – North Cascades guided climb

  • James & Patrick – OR | AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course

  • Lucas & Manny – CO | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Christopher & Andrew – MD | Accelerated Mountaineering Course

  • Jamie & Sam – WA | Ski Mountaineering Course – Mt. Baker, 3-day guided course

  • Andrew & Melissa – TN | Gym to Crag Course

  • Janelle & Luke – CO | AIARE Level I Avalanche Course

  • Jason & Jason – WA | Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue Course

  • Laura & Andrea – IL | Anchors I, II & III Courses

  • Amanpreet & Soyna – CT | Rock Climbing Development Series, Level II Course

  • Adrien & Connor – OR | Guided Climb of Mt. Baker

  • Ellen & Lindsay – AK | Glacier Travel & Crevasse & 6-day Mountaineering Course

TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant recipients Angela and Emily.

TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant recipients Angela and Emily.

“Emily and I have dreamed about traveling to my homeland, Vietnam to climb and share in the whole culture of the country my family is from. But in order to take a trip like this, we need to seriously step up our technical skills game.”
— Angela
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Live Your Dream Grant Applications Now Open

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This is your climbing club | This is your climbing grant.

Application period: January 15th through February 28th

The Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face (TNF), was founded on the belief that our definitions of exploration and our goals are unique to each of us. Meaningful exploration isn’t limited to the highest peaks in the farthest reaches of the world. Your local gym, crag, and backyard mountains are equally important resources to help stoke inspiration for adventure. When we search out new experiences, overcome obstacles, and connect with each other, through exploration, we change ourselves.

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This grant supports the every-day adventurers who harness this mindset for their own exploration. We are looking for individuals who have a personally ambitious climbing goal, a desire to take their abilities to the next level, and want to share the power of exploration with their communities.

Open to all ages, all experience levels, and all climbing disciplines—from bouldering to big walls, alpinism to ski mountaineering, peak bagging to bolt clipping, and everything in between—we encourage you to dream big, let curiosity lead you, and apply.

UPDATE: PRACTICAL BETA ON CLIMBING IN THE COVID ERA

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Throughout the pandemic, climbers have cleared the crags and demonstrated responsible decision-making out of concern for their community. Thank you.

Across the country, restrictions on access to public lands are beginning to change, and, with heightened vigilance, climbers have started to head back to the crags. As we re-engage the activity that we love, our decisions should prioritize the well-being of all individuals and communities that we may impact.

To help foster responsible decision-making and protect vulnerable communities, we offer the following Guiding Principles as we enter the next phase of the pandemic.

GUIDING PRINCIPLES:

  • Don't become a vector for transmission; your behavior matters.

  • Default to always wearing a mask when there is a potential of being near others.

  • Know and follow federal, state, county, and local health guidelines and recommendations. 

  • Follow guidance from local land managers and climbing organizations.

  • Be respectful of rural gateway communities, and use heightened vigilance if you choose to travel to these areas.

  • Keep your objectives conservative. Climbing accidents are avoidable and expose first responders, search and rescue teams, and hospital staff to increased stress and disease risk.

  • Be kind, respectful, and patient with one another during this time. We all want to spend time outside safely; let's work together to create an environment that allows this.

SHOULD I GO CLIMBING?

If you feel confident that you can climb while keeping others and yourself safe, ask the following questions before heading to the crag:

Do I Feel Sick Or Have Reason To Believe I've Recently Been Exposed To COVID-19?

  • Do not go climbing if you feel sick!

  • You may be a carrier of COVID-19 without experiencing symptoms. Be sure to make conservative decisions if you believe you may have recently been exposed to COVID-19.

Who Should I Climb With?

  • As with any social activity, minimize the number of different partners you climb with during this time.

  • Climbing in large groups increases the impact on the land, each other’s experience, and the likelihood of spreading the virus. If you’re in a large group, consider breaking into smaller sub-groups to climb.

Where Should I Climb?

  • States and counties have adopted different standards—check federal, state, and local regulations before deciding where to climb.

  • Respect and follow local climbing organization and land management guidelines.

  • Be hypervigilant if you do decide to travel to vulnerable rural gateway communities.

What Should I Do If I Choose A Crag, And When I Arrive, It's Packed With People?

  • Have a plan B, or even plan C. If you get to the crag, and it's too crowded to maintain social distancing guidelines, head to another spot.

  • If you are at the crag, and it gets crowded, leave for another area.

What Can I Do to Protect Myself, My Partner, And Others?

  • Default to always wearing a mask when there is a potential of being near others.

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative.

  • Practice frequent hand sanitation before, during, and after a session.

  • Treat the rock and gear as you would surfaces in town. 

How Else Can I Help?

  • Rapid COVID-19 tests are becoming widely available. If you choose to travel, consider a COVID-19 test before and after your trip.  

  • Continue to practice Leave No Trace principles.

  • Financially support your local climbing organization.

Thank you for continuing to represent the climbing community through responsible decision-making.

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Joint Statement on Climbing Route Naming

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The American Alpine Club, Appalachian Mountain Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers join with those speaking out and taking action against racist, sexist, and otherwise derogatory route names, and we welcome the conversation about how best to move forward as a community.

Historically in the U.S. climbing community, the opportunity and privilege of naming a route has been given to the first ascensionist. Naming a route is an earned honor, responsibility, and form of artistic expression. When done well, a route's name tells a story. It often cleverly captures the experience of establishing or climbing the route or a unique characteristic of the formation. At worst, a route name inscribes onto the rock an individual's prejudice, insecurity, and violence. These names deface the special places where we climb. Names like "N*****s Wall," "Case of the F*gs," and "Slant Eyes" signal that not all people are welcome, creating a hostile environment that we should not accept.

Recent movements across our nation, including Black Lives Matter, SafeOutside, and Me Too, have been a catalyst for many individuals and organizations to recognize the institutionalized and systemic oppression built into the foundation of our society.

Though not a new problem, we are grateful to Erynne Gilpin, Ashleigh Thompson, and Melissa Utomo, along with Brown Girls Climb, Melanin Base Camp, and Natives Outdoors, for bringing focus back to this problematic practice. As individuals and as a community, we must recognize that words matter. The climbing community as a whole is accountable for the language we use to identify and describe the places where we climb. We must own the toxicity in the practice of naming routes. It’s time for change.

As signers, our 5 organizations represent 150,000 members nationwide. We commit ourselves to building a more respectful community. That includes working collaboratively with climbers across the country to change names of existing routes, providing anti-racism and anti-harassment training for our members and volunteer leaders, and auditing our own publications and websites to determine a process for expunging offensive route names. These changes represent only a starting point, but they are a necessary first step toward making the climbing community more inclusive and our crags and mountains welcoming to us all.

In unity,

American Alpine Club

Appalachian Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club

Mazamas

The Mountaineers

AAC Announces Next CEO—Mitsu Iwasaki

Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) Board of Directors announced today that it has named Mitsu Iwasaki as the organization’s next Chief Executive Officer, effective August 3. Iwasaki is currently the Executive Director of the Mazamas in Portland, Oregon.

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Prior to the Mazamas, he led the rebuilding of the Northwest Outward Bound School where he was the executive director for more than five years. He has also held senior roles at Outward Bound and Big City Mountaineers. “I first joined the AAC as a member in 1997 and am honored to step in as the next leader,” said Iwasaki. “The AAC has broad and deep influence both within and outside the climbing community. The AAC is at an exciting and important juncture with an opportunity to build on the strong foundation put into place under the leadership of Phil Powers.” 

AAC Board of Directors President Kevin V. Duncan said, “We’re thrilled to welcome Mitsu as our next CEO. Mitsu brings a strong track record of guiding organizations through periods of growth and transformation. Climbing is evolving rapidly and the AAC is leaning in. As more people are introduced to climbing through gyms and outdoor adventure films, our mission is to both share and support our passion for climbing, as well as respect the places we climb. We are more attuned to the responsibility we share to protect the public lands on which we recreate and to ensure that climbers are equipped with the knowledge and skills to keep themselves safe. We are confident that Mitsu is the best person to lead us into this new future.” 

Current AAC CEO Phil Powers announced his resignation in October 2019, after fifteen years at the helm of the organization. “On behalf of the Board of Directors,” said Duncan, “I wish to thank Phil for his outstanding leadership. His contributions to the club have been invaluable, driving significant growth and diversification of membership, and setting the stage for continued expansion and relevance.”

Iwasaki was selected after an extensive national search led by the Koya Leadership Partners. “At every step of the way, we challenged ourselves to be inclusive of input from our broad stakeholder community,“ said immediate past President Deanne Buck and search committee chair. “We were looking for that unique individual who brought a depth of experience running organizations with significant growth, the ability to connect with the national politician and the first time climber, a track record of inspiring, building, and leading a team of dedicated professionals, and who has a deep and unabiding love and passion for climbing and the mountains. Mitsu brings all of those attributes and more.” 

Iwasaki will be located in Golden. He is a partner at the Outdoor Policy Outfit and serves on the boards of Big City Mountaineers, Oregon Humanities, and the Oregon State Parks Foundation. 

CONTACT:

Shane Johnson, Marketing and Membership Director

[email protected]

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The AAC Stands in Solidarity

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Black lives matter—throughout the country and at the crag. The American Alpine Club stands in solidarity with those protesting systemic racism on the frontlines and from home. As climbers and as humans, we believe that racism has no place in our craft or our country.

The American Alpine Club is a national community of boulderers and big wallers, backcountry skiers and gym climbers, weekend warriors and armchair mountaineers. Across distance, age and gender, race and religion, political party and profession, we are united by a shared passion for climbing and a commitment to protecting the places where we climb.

What joins us is greater than what divides us. And, in this moment, we collectively grieve the killing of George Floyd and condemn the systemic racism that jeopardizes life and opportunity for black and brown people.   

The American Alpine Club stands with the countless victims of racism—George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and Christian Cooper are only recent examples. We stand with those whose lives were callously stolen and with those who have survived the odds. We stand with those who speak up for justice: in everyday life, at protests, in the halls of government, at the crag, and in the voting booth.

United we climb and united we stand.