AAC Awards

Meet the 2026 American Alpine Club Awardees

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce the recipients of its 2026 awards, recognizing outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing and mountaineering, mountain literature, and dedication to the Club. Awardees will be recognized at the American Alpine Club's Annual Gala on October 24 in Golden, Colorado.

President's Gold Medal: Lynn Hill

Honorary Membership (posthumously): Daryl Miller

The Pinnacle Award: Jimmie Dunn

The Angelo Heilprin Citation: Scott Richards

David R. Brower Conservation Award: Alison Criscitiello

H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Geoff Powter

David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Black Canyon Rescue Team

Robert Hicks Bates Award: Dane Steadman

Keep reading to learn more about each awardee.


President's Gold Medal: Lynn Hill

Image by Heinz Zak.

FOR EXTRAORDINARY ACCOMPLISHMENTS IN THE CLIMBING WORLD

Lynn Hill has spent more than 50 years climbing at the highest levels of the sport, expanding its culture and redefining its limits across the world. Most famously, Hill completed the first free ascent of The Nose in 1993, followed by an all-free ascent of The Nose in one day in 1994—a feat to this day only Hill and Tommy Caldwell have completed.

Throughout her career, Hill repeatedly redefined what was possible in climbing. In 1979 she became the first woman to climb a route rated 5.12d, and in 1991, she became the first woman to climb 5.14. In 1992, Hill became the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and by 1995, she made two first free ascents of 5.12 walls in Kyrgyzstan. In 1999, Hill led an all-women's team to the first ascent of Bravo Les Filles (5.12c/AO or 5.13d) in Madagascar.

In Nina Williams' final year as Board President, she will award Hill the President's Gold Medal, an honor given only seven times since the AAC's founding, recognizing Hill's contributions to climbing.


Honorary Membership: Daryl Miller (posthumously)

Daryl Miller. Image courtesy of Charlie Sassara.

FOR LASTING AND SIGNIFICANT IMPACT ON CLIMBING

Honorary Membership is one of the highest awards the AAC offers. As remembered by longtime friend and fellow alpinist Charlie Sassara, the AAC posthumously recognizes Daryl Miller for his lifetime commitment and passion for adventure, outdoor education, mountain rescue, and climbing in all its forms.

“Daryl was deeply committed to the ethos: ‘Go, but bring back a story.’ Along his journey Daryl touched the hearts of climbers, adventurers, and vagabonds across generations with his keen interest in their plans and adventures.

Daryl became a United States Marine in 1961, served during the Cuban Missile Crisis, and completed two tours in Vietnam. He left the military in 1972 and moved to Montana, working in ranching and as a bullfighter—the guy who steps between an angry bull and a downed cowboy.

In 1991 Daryl joined the National Park Service at Denali National Park as a mountaineering ranger. He eventually led the South District office and oversaw the entire mountain program, but what set him apart was his compassion. Though Daryl often said that “your emergency may not be my emergency,” his actions told a different story. When grieving families arrived at Denali searching for answers about a lost loved one, he stayed with them through it, often at considerable cost to himself.

Daryl was also key to the integration of the NPS Mountaineering Ranger Program with the U.S. Air Force 210th Rescue Squadron (PJs) and was later recognized with the International Alpine Solidarity Award by the guides of Pinzolo, Italy. Daryl’s ‘rescue highlight reel’ includes the rescue of Malcolm Daly from the South Face of Thunder Mountain and the 210th Rescue Squadron’s long line rescue of Jack Tackle from the North Face of Mt. Augusta in 2002.

Fundamentally, Daryl believed that a life well lived should be packed with powerful experiences—the type of experiences that require taking risks that challenge and change you as a person. What really set Daryl apart was his enthusiasm for ‘your’ adventure. Those who stepped into his circle will remember a man who inspired, encouraged, and challenged the people around him, and who very often changed the course of their lives.”


Pinnacle Award: Jimmie Dunn

Jimmie Dunn on Zonked Out. Image by Albert Dow.

FOR OUTSTANDING MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

Jimmie Dunn’s nearly sixty-year career includes impressive ascents that have paved the way for climbers across the world. In 1972, Dunn completed the first ascent of Cosmos on El Capitan—the first new route on the wall completed solo. In 1976, Dunn and Earl Wiggins made the first free ascent of The Cruise in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison after a six-hour effort. Other significant climbs include the third ascent of Standing Rock, the first ascent of Castleton Tower's west face, and the fifth ascent of North Six Shooter, all during a one-week trip in 1971 with Billy Westbay and Stuart Green.

Dunn recounts his extensive climbing career, anchored by vivid memories of fellow mountaineers and adventure, “I remember Bob Palais, as a young climber, bringing me homemade brownies from Boston to North Conway, New Hampshire, every weekend all summer in the early 1970s. In 1976, leading Black Magic barefoot on Cathedral Ledge, with Ajax Greene and Ed Webster following barefoot—we were inspired by 'Hot' Henry Barber's tales of climbing in Dresden, Germany. In 1978, I clearly remember Albert Dow yelling up to me for a photograph on Zonked Out, Woodchuck Ledge, a desperate crack I rated 5.10+++. I was wearing only one climbing shoe and had a bloody bandage around my throbbing butt cheek from a giant beaver’s bite. It’s now rated 5.12b.”

Today, Dunn spends his time supporting his son, CharlieJoe (CJ), in his climbing pursuits, working on his partner Hellen's wild environmental art projects, EARTHflows, at Sky Soul Studio, and putting together a book to celebrate the incredible climbs and climbers he has known, hoping to publish A Rope and Rack, the Shirt on Your Back: Life and Friends of Jimmie Dunn, Climber, within the next year. Dunn shares, “The climbs are cool, but what really matters is the people you meet along the way.”


Angelo Heilprin Citation: Scott Richards

Scott Richards taking on the Power of Four skimo race with his daughter. Image by Scott Richards.

FOR EXEMPLARY SERVICE TO THE CLUB 

The Angelo Heilprin Citation honors AAC members for their long-term dedication to the Club, expressing their passion for climbing, community, and giving back through everyday involvement. Scott Richards is this year’s awardee, honored for his work in maintaining and strengthening the AAC.

Richards grew up in Evergreen, Colorado, and studied at Fort Lewis College before completing graduate work at Colorado State University and a professional certificate at the CU Leeds School of Business. In his twenties, he worked as a mountain guide and outdoor educator around the world, later teaching geography, art, and reading at a Colorado public middle school and then serving as a teacher and principal at the American International School in Gabon, Central Africa. He and his wife returned to the United States when she was pregnant with their second child, and Richards began a career as a financial advisor at Northwestern Mutual. 

Richards has been an AAC member for 23 years and serves on both the AAC Development Committee and the Host Committee for the Annual Gala, drawing on his dual background as a financial advisor and former NOLS instructor. He also sits on the board of Locally Haiti, working to improve health, education, and agriculture in the country. Richards’ reach extends into international climbing and ski mountaineering circles; in April, he and two teammates from Louisville completed the 2026 edition of Switzerland's Patrouille des Glaciers ski mountaineering race in 16 hours. When he's not serving the Club, Richards can be found skiing, running ultras, or bird watching.


David R. Brower Conservation Award: Alison Criscitiello

A melt layer in a section of ice core drilled from Snow Dome, Columbia Icefield, BC. Image by Rebecca Haspel.

FOR LEADERSHIP AND COMMITMENT TO CONSERVATION AND THE PRESERVATION OF MOUNTAIN REGIONS WORLDWIDE

Dr. Alison Criscitiello is a world-renowned ice core scientist and high-altitude mountaineer who explores the history of climate and environmental pollutants in polar and high-alpine regions using ice core chemistry. Criscitiello’s work has taken her to ice caps around the world including Antarctica, Greenland, and the Canadian high Arctic, as well as the summit of Canada’s highest peak, Mt. Logan where she drilled an ice core in 2022. Alongside her scientific research, she is an exceptional storyteller whose work has appeared in film projects, television, and print—including her article “Contraindications,” which won a Banff Mountain Book Competition award in 2018. 

Her accolades are extensive: Criscitiello was elected to the Royal Canadian Geographic Society's College of Fellows, is a Fellow International with The Explorers Club, and was awarded a Queen Elizabeth II's Platinum Jubilee Medal for her significant contributions to Arctic climate research. She has also received three American Alpine Club climbing awards, the Alpine Club of Canada's John Lauchlan Award, and the Mugs Stump Award.

In conjunction with her research, Criscitiello is committed to making science more accessible to young women. As a co-founder of the Girls* on Ice Canada program, she hopes to merge science, art, and adventure to inspire leadership, curiosity, and confidence in the next generation of leaders. Her work has motivated a community of young women to pursue their interests in science and dive into their passions in the outdoors.


H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Geoff Powter

Image by Geoff Powter.

FOR EXCELLENCE IN CLIMBING LITERATURE

Geoff Powter is a climber, writer, and editor, long based in the Canadian Rockies. He is a veteran of 13 Himalayan expeditions, and has been writing about climbing and other risk sports for decades. Geoff was the editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal for 13 years and was the host of the Voices of Adventure interview series at the Banff Mountain Book Festival for 27 years, showcasing his depth of storytelling across media. 

Geoff’s magazine writing has earned him nine National Magazine Awards, and his three books (Strange and Dangerous Dreams, Inner Ranges, and Survival is not Assured: The Life of Climber Jim Donini) have won two National Outdoor Book Awards, a Jury Prize and Best Climbing Book Award at the Banff Mountain Book Festival, and a shortlist for the Boardman-Tasker Award.


David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Black Canyon Rescue Team

An Army Black Hawk helicopter lifts the severely injured Becca Steinbrecher out of the Black Canyon on September 11, 2023. Image by Vic Zeilman.

FOR UNSELFISH DEVOTION TO IMPERILED CLIMBERS

The David A. Sowles Memorial Award, powered by Rocky Talkie, recognizes the Black Canyon Rescue Team for their response to a September 2023 climbing accident in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, where a climber suffered a serious leader fall on Great White Wall and remained unconscious for nearly 11 hours before evacuation.

Twenty-eight rescue personnel took part in the response, most of them volunteers with the Black Canyon SAR team, alongside Black Canyon district and park rangers and Army National Guard personnel. The climber’s partner, Skyeler Congdon, secured her at the anchor before rappelling the route and running out to call for help. NPS ranger Philippe Wheelock led the climbing team that descended into the canyon and reached the climber, alongside SAR volunteer and former NPS climbing ranger Vic Zeilman. Ranger Tom Schaefer directed operations from the rim, while district rangers Ryan Rees and Ryan Thrush oversaw incident command. The Army National Guard's High-Altitude Aviation Training Site provided the helicopter that carried out the final evacuation.

Read the full incident account and analysis in the American Alpine Club’s publications.


Robert Hicks Bates Award: Dane Steadman

Dane Steadman on the summit of a previously unclimbed 6,000m tower, later named Sangar Tower, in the Pakistani Karakoram, in 2025. Image by Blake Berghoff.

FOR OUTSTANDING ACCOMPLISHMENT BY A YOUNG CLIMBER

The 2026 Robert Hicks Bates Award, powered by La Sportiva, honors Dane Steadman. Steadman is a mountaineer in all senses of the word. At only 28 years old, he’s already made his mark with his 2024 first ascent of Tiger Lily Buttress on Yashkuk Sar I and countless other alpine pursuits which span from ascents in his own backyard like Barely Legal to expeditions in the Alaska Range, Karakoram, Himalaya, and Tian Shan.

Steadman describes his start in alpinism as “an inexplicable draw toward high, cold mountains,” which brought him from the heat of the Arizona desert to the cool landscape of Cody, Wyoming where he resides today as a Patagonia ambassador and climbing guide. Steadman spends his free time developing new rock and mixed climbing routes around the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. 

Steadman is a recipient of the 2025 Piolet d’Or and the American Alpine Club’s 2026 Cutting Edge Grant which will fund his next expedition to Pakistan, where he will attempt the north buttress of Gharkun.

The Robert Hicks Bates Award is sponsored by:

 
 

American Alpine Club award winners will be honored with bespoke, sustainable, custom-made awards by metal artist Lisa Issenberg. Lisa is the owner and founder of the Ridgway, Colorado studio, Kiitellä, named after a Finnish word meaning to "thank, applaud, or praise." Lisa has been providing custom awards for the American Alpine Club since 2013. Kiitellä's process includes a mix of both handcraft and industrial techniques. To learn more, visit kiitella.com


Join us on October 24 in Golden, Colorado, as we celebrate these remarkable individuals and the many ways they have shaped climbing. The Annual Gala brings together climbers from across the country for an evening of recognition, connection, and community.


Tickets on Sale for American Alpine Club’s 2026 Annual Gala

Registration is now open for the American Alpine Club's 2026 Annual Gala, taking place October 24 at the historic Buffalo Rose in downtown Golden, Colorado, just steps away from the Club’s library and headquarters.


Nina Williams presenting at the 2025 AAC Gala. Image by Jim Aikman

The American Alpine Club’s Annual Gala brings the climbing community together for an evening of celebration, recognition, and connection. This year's Gala will be anchored by the presentation of eight American Alpine Club Awards, recognizing outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing and mountaineering, mountain literature, and dedication to the Club.

“The Gala is a reminder that climbing is rooted in community, in the places that bring us together, and in the relationships we build along the way,” said Nina Williams, Board President. “I'm looking forward to connecting with old friends, meeting new ones, and celebrating the importance of putting people first. The Gala is a chance to celebrate where we are today while honoring the legacies that have shaped our community and the places we care about.”

With all the excitement and celebration expected from an AAC Gala — including opening receptions, auctions, and exclusive connection points for VIPs — this year’s Gala will celebrate the impact of 2025, and look forward to the Club’s 125th anniversary. All AAC members are invited to an annual membership meeting Saturday morning for continued mingling, connection, and inspiration.


Purchase tickets by visiting americanalpineclub.org/gala, and dust off your cowboy boots. This event is western themed, in the spirit of the historic venue and locale.


2025 American Alpine Club Gala Awards

MEET THE AWARDEES

Discover their incredible stories, then join us for the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala to hear more!


The Robert Hicks Bates Award: Brooke Raboutou

"Trieste" (V14) —Red Rock National Conservation Area, NV. Photo by Jess Glassberg/Louder Than Eleven.

FOR OUTSTANDING ACCOMPLISHMENT BY A YOUNG CLIMBER

Brooke Raboutou grew up in Boulder, CO, where she began climbing at age two. At 11, Raboutou sent Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the youngest person to climb the route. From 2020 to 2022, Raboutou pushed bouldering grades, sending Muscle Car (V14), The Atomator (V13), The Shining (V12/13), The Wheel of Chaos (V13), Doppelgänger Poltergeist (V13), Jade (V14), Euro Trash (V12/8a+), Euro Roof Low Low (V13/8b) Trieste (V14), Heritage (V13), La Proue (V13), Lur (V14), Evil Backwards (V13). Raboutou was the first American to qualify for the Olympics, and during the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, she finished 5th. 

In October 2023, Raboutou sent Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park and promptly downgraded it from V16 to V15. In 2024, Raboutou won silver in the combined bouldering and lead competition at the Paris Olympics, becoming the first American woman to win an Olympic medal in climbing. In April 2025, Raboutou sent Excalibur (5.15c), becoming the first woman to send the grade. 


David R. Brower Conservation Award: Outdoor Alliance 

Crested Butte. Photo by Holly Mandarich.

FOR LEADERSHIP AND COMMITMENT TO CONSERVATION AND THE PRESERVATION OF MOUNTAIN REGIONS WORLDWIDE

Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the Surfrider Foundation. For more than ten years, Outdoor Alliance has united the human-powered outdoor recreation community to achieve lasting conservation victories. Its work has helped to permanently protect 40 million acres of public land, secure $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and convert more than 100,000 outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Adam Cramer will be accepting the award on behalf of Outdoor Alliance. He is the founding Executive Director and present CEO of Outdoor Alliance. During his time as CEO, Adam has brought new sensibilities to conservation work that have resulted in hundreds of thousands more acres of protected landscapes, improved management for outdoor recreation, and thousands of outdoor enthusiasts awakened to conservation and advocacy work. He is an avid whitewater kayaker and mountain biker, but is always on the lookout for a good skatepark. 


Honorary Membership: Jack Tackle

Chilling ll in the Kishtwar Himalaya in India in 2015. Photo by Renny Jackson.

Honorary Membership is one of the highest awards the AAC offers. The award is given to those individuals who have had a lasting and highly significant impact on the advancement of the climbing craft.

For 52 years, Jack Tackle has focused on alpine climbing, particularly first ascents, in the Himalayas, South America, and Alaska. Jack Tackle is best known for his climbing in Alaska. He has done 35 separate trips, combining both attempts and successes since 1976, and completed 17 significant first ascents in Alaska’s various ranges. Tackle is a past Board member of the AAC (nine years) and served as Treasurer of the AAC from 2009-2012. He has been a member of the AAC since 1978. He presently serves on the Pinnacle and Grand Teton Climber Ranch committees and is the chairman of the AAC Cutting Edge Grant committee. For 30 years, Tackle was an independent sales rep for outdoor brands, including Patagonia, Black Diamond Equipment, and Vasque Footwear. In addition, Tackle guided for Exum Mountain Guides in the Tetons for 40 years, from 1982 to 2022.


The H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Michael Wejchert

Michael Wejchert. Photo by Alexa Siegel.

FOR EXCELLENCE IN CLIMBING LITERATURE

Michael Wejchert began climbing as a scared ten-year-old in a swami belt. Now a scared thirty-nine-year-old, rock and ice climbing remain his overriding passion. He began writing about climbing in high school and hasn't stopped. In 2013, he won the Waterman Fund Essay Contest for a piece called Epigoni, Revisited, about a failed attempt to climb Mount Deborah in the Hayes Range of Alaska. His first book, Hidden Mountains, won a National Outdoor Book Award in 2023. His essays and features have appeared in virtually every North American climbing magazine and major media outlets: Alpinist, Ascent, Rock & Ice, Appalachia, and the New York Times, to name a few. He is a proud contributing editor at the new Summit Journal. He lives just down the road from Cathedral Ledge, New England's finest trad cliff.


The Pinnacle Award: Kelly Cordes

Kelly Cordes at the team's second bivy, Great Trango Tower, 2004. Photo by Josh Wharton.

FOR OUTSTANDING MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

As an undersized kid who wanted to be a cowboy, Kelly Cordes never dreamed that climbing would define his life. But he stumbled upon an obsession that took him to places of unimaginable beauty and infused his world with meaning. He established challenging alpine routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia, and Pakistan along the way. Some of his notable ascents include: the first ascent of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower, Pakistan; first link-up of Tiempos Perdidos and the upper West Face ice routes on Cerro Torre, Patagonia; first ascent of Personal Jesus on Nevado Ulta, Peru; first ascent of The Trailer Park on London Tower, Alaska; first ascent of Deadbeat, Thunder Mountain, Alaska; and the first ascent of Ring of Fire, Thunder Mountain, Alaska. His personal experiences intersected with a larger journey in his award-winning book, The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre. Cordes was also a senior editor of the American Alpine Journal for many years. He claims to never tire of mountains and wild places. 


The David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Jacques-Olivier Chevallier, Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis

Photo by GMHM.

FOR UNSELFISH DEVOTION TO IMPERILED CLIMBERS 

McNeill-Nott Award recipient Michaelle Dvorak and her climbing partner, Fay Manners, attempted a first ascent on Chaukhamba III (6,995m) in northern India. Falling rocks sliced their rope, sending their haul bag, with most of their gear, plummeting down the mountain. The two sent out an SOS before Dvorak’s phone died and hunkered down as a storm rolled in. They waited for rescue, but helicopters circled them without seeing them. After two days of waiting, they decided to descend on the third day. They only had one set of crampons, making the impending challenge a high-consequence affair. 

Three climbers from the French Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne of Chamonix, or the High Mountain Military Group, named Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis, and Jacques-Olivier Chevallier had heard that two climbers were missing and abandoned their attempt on the peak’s east pillar to rescue the two climbers. The High Mountain Military Group is an elite and small unit that includes some of the best mountaineers in the French Armed Forces among its members.

The two climbers safely reached the French advanced base camp with Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis, and Jacques-Olivier Chevallier's help. The Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF) helicoptered them out the next day. 

Vivien Berlaud is a sergeant of the High Mountain Military Group. 

Photo by GMHM

Paulin Clovis is a member of the High Mountain Military Group. In 2023, he did the first repeat and winter ascent of Directissima (1200m 7a A2) on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. 

Jaques-Oliver Chevallier is a High Mountain Military Group member and a mountain guide. Some of his accomplishments include: the Triple Direct (975m VI 5.9 C2) on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley; Cassin Route (1200m IV 5.9+ TD+/ED1 A1) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses; Mont Blanc with a client; and Intégrale de Peuterey (4545m VI 5.9 WI4 M5) in the Mont Blanc massif.


Angelo Heilprin Citation: Rick Wilcox

Ty Marshall, Edge of the World 5.13c, The Prow Area, Cathedral Ledge, NH. Photo by Andrew Burr.

FOR EXEMPLARY SERVICE TO THE CLUB 

“Rick embodies the spirit of the Angelo Heilprin Citation through his decades of tireless service to the AAC, his instrumental role in establishing and leading critical mountain rescue operations, his entrepreneurial vision in fostering a thriving climbing community, and his dedication to our community and pursuits. It is without reservation that we select Rick Wilcox for the Angelo Heilprin Citation.” - Selection Committee.

Rick Wilcox has exemplified the dedication and service required for the Heilprin Citation for over half a century. He has been an AAC member since 1973 and served as secretary to three AAC presidents, providing invaluable continuity and institutional knowledge. He was also a member of the AAC Board of Directors and a highly active participant in the AAC New England section.

In 1976, while managing EMS in North Conway, NH, he was instrumental in establishing Mountain Rescue Service (MRS). He then served as MRS president for an impressive 41 years, leading essential rescue operations in the extreme environments of the White Mountain National Forest, which was recognized in 1999 when the New Hampshire MRS received the David A. Sowles Award for critical assistance to climbers.

Beyond his direct contributions to the AAC and mountain rescue, Wilcox purchased International Mountain Equipment in 1979, a pillar of the climbing community. Later, he co-owned International Mountain Climbing School with Brad White, which grew into a highly respected brand. In 1993, Rick, alongside Nick Yardley, co-founded the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, now the premier ice climbing event in the Northeast. He also had a six-year tenure as a director of the American Mountain Guides Association.

Wilcox’s unwavering dedication to the Club has benefited countless climbers for decades, particularly in the Northeast, where he has been a vital behind-the-scenes nexus. 


American Alpine Club award winners will be honored with bespoke, sustainable, custom-made awards by metal artist Lisa Issenberg. Lisa is the owner and founder of the Ridgway, Colorado studio, Kiitellä, named after a Finnish word meaning to "thank, applaud, or praise." Lisa has been providing custom awards for the American Alpine Club since 2013. Kiitellä's process includes a mix of both handcraft and industrial techniques. To learn more, visit kiitella.com


Attend the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala in Denver, CO, on October 18, 2025, to hear more from these awardees.


Transforming the Conditions for the Send

Saturday Session panelists Kareemah Batts, Roshni Brahmbhatt, Lyndon Cudlitz, Ady Wright, and Tommy Caldwell.

The 2023 Annual Benefit Gala

Together we laughed, cried, and celebrated this incredible community.

At this year's AAC Gala, the energy for advocacy was unprecedented. You could feel it in the room, the energy to transform the conditions for the send. At the AAC, we know there are a mess of things impacting the send, not just the weather! Bigger picture—climate change, equitable climbing access and inclusive community, the conservation of public lands, ever evolving climbing management plans, and education for climbers—are all impacting our climbing. At the AAC, we're fighting to transform those conditions in order to protect the heart of climbing—the people and places who make climbing so special. At this year's Gala, the climbing community turned out in force to support and celebrate this transformation.

Climbers near and far came together to celebrate the boldness that is crucial for our climbing endeavors and advocacy. We were joined by Former Vice President Al Gore, the Full Circle Everest Team, and a room full of AAC members, industry leaders, and climbing stars.

Dive deep into an unforgettable night in climbing, below!

Transforming the Conditions for the Send

Introducing the 2022 American Alpine Club Awardees

Each year, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has the honor of presenting its prestigious Annual Climbing Awards to outstanding climbers, conservationists, and volunteers. This year’s awards include Sean Bailey, Natalia Grossman, Rick Reese, Pat Ament, John Kascenska, John Heilprin, David Nyman, and Joe Terravecchia.

The awards will be presented at the AAC Annual Bennefit Gala on March 26, 2022 in Denver, CO.


Honorary Membership

Arlene Blum & Steve Roper will be awarded honorary memberships this year. "Both are “household” names in the climbing community and have distinguished themselves over many years in the mountains through their pioneering leadership of difficult ascents and in areas of the arts and science in mountain related endeavors.

The Robert Hicks Bates Award

Sean Bailey & Natalia Grossman will receive the Robert Hicks Bates Award which honors young climbers who show "outstanding promise for future accomplishment." The selection committee wanted to focus on competition climbing. Sean won two lead world cups and a boulder world cup in 2021, while Natalia won the boulder world championships and won two boulder world cups.

The David R. Brower Award

Rick Reese will be awarded The David Brower Conservation Award. Rick co-founded the Greater Yellowstone Coalition, now the leading conservation group fighting for the protection of this over 4.5million acre iconic ecosystem comprising nearly a dozen mountain ranges. Rick was clearly one of the most important western conservationists of our generation not to mention a bold, tenacious and accomplished pioneer climber and former climbing ranger.

The H. Adams Carter Literary Award

The AAC Literary Committee will award Pat Ament he H. Adams Carter Literary Award. Pat would have 30 books published, approaching 200 magazine articles, and 25 pieces selected for various international anthologies of best climbing writings – more than any other person. His writings include many poems in literary magazines. President emeritus of the AAC, Jim McCarthy, has called Pat "the poet laureate of American climbing writing."

Angelo Heilprin Citation

John Kascenska & John Heilprin will be awarded the 2022 Heilprin Citation for their "exemplary service to the Club." John Kascenska joined the American Alpine Club in 1996 and for many years has volunteered with several Club activities. John Heilprin served on the board of directors from 2012 to 2018.

David A. Sowles Memorial Award

David Nyman will be awarded the David A Sowles Memorial Award for the eight-day ordeal to rescue/evacuate Jim Sweeney from the base of the Elevator Shaft on Mt. Johnson in 1989. The award is conferred from time to time on mountaineers who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains.


Please join us at the Annual Benefit Gala on March 26, 2022 in Denver, CO to hear from the awardees

2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees Announced

laura-guy pidgeon summit-1970.jpg

We’re stoked to celebrate our 2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees! These are folks who have had a significant impact on climbing history through contributions in mountain culture, environmental responsibility, and community. 

Our first inductee is climber, conservationist and author Laura Waterman, who founded The Waterman Fund grants program to support trail work, stewardship, education, and research. She’s pictured above with her late husband, Guy, in 1970. Photo: Waterman Collection.

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Our next inductee is Ken Yager, a climbing guide and founder of the Yosemite Climbing Association. In 2004, he started Facelift, a non-profit responsible for removing over 1 million pounds of garbage from the park. The event continues to be the largest volunteer cleanup in park history. Photo, above, by Michael Brown.

Finally, we’re honored to present the H. Adams Carter Literary Award to Kelly Cordes. Kelly has made it his mission to maximize outdoor time. This focus strongly influences his climbing, which includes new alpine-style routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia and Pakistan. He’s also been known to put pen to paper, writing many climbing articles, serving as longtime editor of the AAJ, and authoring the book, “The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre.” Photo, below, by Kevin Cooper.

Cordes Cannonball IMG_0172 (Kevin Cooper photo) (2).JPG

We’ll be officially inducting these amazing individuals into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence at our Excellence in Climbing Celebration in Golden, CO on June 1—get your tickets!


The American Alpine Club Announces 2018 ‘Excellence in Climbing’ Honors and Benefit Evening

May 1, 2018, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC), the country's oldest and largest climbing and mountaineering member organization, is thrilled to announce the organization's 2018 inductees to the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence and the winner of the 2018 H Adams Carter Literary Award. The honors, which recognize a lifetime of achievement in their respective categories, will be bestowed at the 3rd Annual Excellence in Climbing Celebration on June 2, 2018 at the History Colorado Center.

The Hall of Mountaineering Excellence recognizes those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. The 2018 inductees are a truly impressive class of climbers and alpinists, who have used their knowledge and success to positively influence new generations of climbers.

2018 Inductees to the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence:

Danika Gilbert - For her work with ASCEND: Leadership Through Athletics, empowering young Afghan women through climbing to become leaders who are equipped and motivated to help their society transition to peace.

David Roberts - For his storied career as a published author of over 20 books and mentorship of young  authors, preserving and growing the art of storytelling.

Doug Chabot - For co-founding the Iqra Fund, which provides access to quality education, especially for girls in the remote regions of northern Pakistan, improving their quality of life.

The H. Adams Carter Literary Award was established to recognize excellence in climbing literature. Recipients of this award have contributed extensively to the art and include honorees like Jon Krakauer, Katie Ives, John Long, and Alison Osius.

2018 H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Jeff Jackson - For a decade of dedication and inspiring work at Rock & Ice magazine.

The celebration event will be held on Saturday June 2, 2018, at History Colorado Center located at 1200 N Broadway, Denver, CO 80203. The evening includes presentations by honorees, a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and food. And since no AAC function would be complete without a dance party, the evening will be appropriately capped-off with live 80's music by The Goonies, along with more drinks, games, and gear giveaways.

All event proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, dedicated to preserving and celebrating our shared climbing history.

Tickets are very limited. For more information about the weekend activities and to reserve your spot, call (303) 384-0110 or visit americanalpineclub.org/excellence.

Registration closes on May 29, or when sold out.

About American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Climbing; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, Rumney Rattlesnake Campground, Samuel F. Pryor Shawangunk Gateway Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at www.americanalpineclub.org

 

2017 Excellence in Climbing Awards Announced

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees for lasting contributions both on and off the mountain.

The 2017 inductees are:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.


April 13, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees: Sean Patrick, Dave Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O’Neill, and former AAC President Doug Walker.

This prestigious award is given to those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. These climbers have inspired a legacy for future climbers, positively impacted the environment, and advanced the fields of science and medicine, all while accomplishing incredible climbing feats.

Learn more about this year’s Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

Each year, the AAC recognizes one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrated excellence in climbing, upheld the values of the American Alpine Club, and acted in a manner befit a world-class ambassador to American climbing both domestically and abroad.The team was supported by the American Alpine Club’s Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Grant.

The teamwork themed celebration will be held on Saturday June 3, 2017 at the Westin located at 1672 Lawrence Street, Denver, CO 80202. The evening includes presentations by award winners and attendees will enjoy a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and food. An after party featuring live music by 80’s cover band, The Goonies, drinks, and gear giveaway will take place directly after the dinner also at Westin.

All proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.

Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner Recap

Photo: AAC member Michael Lim/Edwin Teran

Photo: AAC member Michael Lim/Edwin Teran

The AAC’s first ever Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner at the History Colorado Center in Denver, presented by Adidas Outdoor, celebrated the inspirational 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees, the Alpina Cutting Edge awardees and raised critical funds for AAC programs and institutions. 

Read what the press had to say: 

True Heroes of Climbing
"The word “hero” gets thrown around a lot in climbing. But as impressive as summiting K2 or bouldering V15 might be, the genuine heroes of climbing are those whose achievements help make the world a better place..."—Climbing.com

Women Are On The Rise In The Climbing World
"It was a giant stepping stone,” said Libby Sauter, the award recipient and also the keynote speaker of the night. Sauter is the youngest climber to be added to the Hall, and only one of five women in its history, since the club’s birth more than a century ago..."—Gear Junkie.com 

View the photo album

 

Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster Receive First Annual Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award

Photo: Kyle Dempster

Photo: Kyle Dempster

On behalf of Alpina Watches and the American Alpine Club, Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have been selected to receive the first annual Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award for their outstanding 2012 accomplishment in establishing two new routes in Pakistan's Karakoram, the east face of K7 and the south face of Ogre I.

The Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award will be presented each year to one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrates excellency in skills and accomplishment in cutting edge climbing objectives and who upholds the values of the American Alpine Club, acting as world-class ambassadors to American climbing both domestically and abroad. Hayden and Kyle's 2012 achievements in Pakistan were funded in part through the AAC's Lyman Spitzer grant.

Read about the ascents. 


Honoring the deep traditions of style, ethics, and the “Brotherhood of the Rope,” The Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award will recognize one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrated excellence in climbing, upheld the values of the American Alpine Club and Alpina Watches, and acted in a manner befit a world-class ambassador to American climbing both domestically and abroad. 

“Alpina is a great partnership for this new award. Both the AAC and Alpina believe in high standards of performance and promoting those climbers who employ exceptional style both on and off the mountain,” said Phil Powers, CEO of the American Alpine Club. “The Cutting Edge Award celebrates great climbing achievement with an emphasis on admirable camaraderie within the team, and a real respect for the environments which they travel.”

“Climbing has no boundaries and no nationality. Climbers from all over the world share the same human, ethical and sports values, because the mountain demands and deserves them” says Guido Benedini, Alpina Watches CEO. “Being a Brand born in the Swiss Alps in 1883, since more than a century, we regard it as our responsibility to support mountaineering values and the protection of the Alpine environment. We are therefore extremely proud to give our contribution to the AAC by supporting the Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award and by becoming their Official Watch”. 

2016 Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner

What do these names have in common? Tom Frost, Hugh Herr, John Roskelley, Libby Sauter, and Geoff Tabin.

These are your 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees!

They will be recognized at the inaugural AAC Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner on May 7th, 2016. We invite you to join us at the History Colorado Center to honor these amazing climbers who achieve both on and off the mountain.

This special event includes a cocktail reception, silent and live auctions, high cuisine, keynote by Libby Sauter, and an after party with live music.


Learn More:

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our inaugural Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The dinner will feature a keynote by Adidas athlete Libby Sauter and honor the 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees: Tom Frost, Hugh Herr, John Roskelley, Libby Sauter, and Geoff Tabin. This prestigious award is given to those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. These climbers have inspired a legacy for future climbers, positively impacted the environment, and advanced the fields of science and medicine, all while accomplishing incredible climbing feats.

“For the past 7 years, the American Mountaineering Museum has been quietly inducting America's most accomplished climbers into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “This year the AAC is recognizing these notable climbers in a much more public forum in downtown Denver.”

The event features a special keynote by Libby Sauter. An all around climber, Sauter has many accomplishments ranging from big walls to mountaineering to high lining. She holds speed records in Yosemite and has done first ascents in South America. When not in the mountains, Sauter works as a pediatric nurse for Novick Cardiac Alliance, a nonprofit that brings cardiac care to conflict zones.

Here is a little more about this year’s group of inductees:

Tom Frost for his efforts in saving Yosemite's iconic Camp 4 and his many first ascents in Yosemite including the Salathe Wall. 

Geoff Tabin for co-founding The Himalayan Cataract Project, which brings sustainable eye care to the Himalaya and for climbing the seven summits. 

John Roskelley for giving back to the climbing community with his writing, his public service and notable ascents in the Himalaya including the third ascent, and first American ascent,  of K2, by a new route.

Hugh Herr who is head of the Biomechatronics research group at MIT,where he develops wearable robotic systems that serve to augment human physical capability and for climbing many first ascents such as the first 5.13 on the East Coast with Lynn Hill.

Libby Sauter for her many speed records in Yosemite, including a new women's record on the Nose of 4 hours and 43 minutes, and for her work as a pediatric nurse for children who need heart surgery in third world countries.

The dinner  will be held on May 7, 2016 at the History Colorado Center located at 1200 Broadway, Denver, CO 80203. To go along with the keynote and induction ceremony, attendees will enjoy a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and fine dining.  An after party featuring live music by 80’s cover band,  The Goonies, an open bar, and gear giveaway will take place directly after the dinner also at History Colorado. All proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.