Joshua Tree National Park. Area classics often require a hands-on approach and demand that climbers put in the requisite time learning the rock and tricky protection. Photo by Tuxyso | Wiki Commons.
The winter rock season is fast approaching. This month, we have an accident that took place at the iconic and popular Southern California winter destination, Joshua Tree.
This incident took place on Coarse and Buggy, a classic one-pitch 5.11a/b on the roadside Dihedral Rock. We have a video perspective of a leader fall from a ground-eye view, shot on the climber’s camera. What you’ll see is someone climbing at their limit, falling, and then ripping their gear.
This was one of several accidents from J-Tree NPS that we published in the 2026 ANAC and that involved a ground fall and rescue from a difficult trad route. Many routes from the 1970s and ‘80s are tricky, hard to protect, and feel several letter grades harder than contemporary routes. They’re also often toproped (and perhaps graded as such).
Ground Fall | Multiple Pieces of Protection Pulled
Joshua Tree National Park, Dihedral Rock
In November 2025, Mark Ritterpusch fell and pulled several pieces before hitting the ground. The blue X marks where he fell, while the blue arrow shows the path of his fall. Photo by NPS.
On November 10, 2025, I attempted Coarse and Buggy (5.11a/b) at Dihedral Rock in Joshua Tree National Park. I am 32, with considerable trad experience, and I had done thorough research, reading through multiple guidebooks and Mountain Project comments. I borrowed extra black Totems from friends. My belayer (mid-30s, moderate experience) was set up in the cave at the base, sheltered from the loose flake above that the route is known for.
The plan was for me to lead Coarse and Buggy and set a toprope. I placed several good pieces at the start. As I began the dihedral, I wasn’t able to place the cams I had brought. I had several microcams (BD Z4 Nos. 0, 0.1, 0.2, and numerous black Totems), but they all seemed too big. I settled for some DMM Peenuts as the next three pieces: sizes 3, 4, and 5. Each time I placed one, I thought I saw a better placement higher. And each time, that “better” placement turned out to be too flared or too small. Each nut was about three to five feet above the prior nut.
I could see a cam placement under the roof above, which would have been bomber, but my calves were burning and I knew I was at my limit. I decided it was safer to take a controlled fall than to press on. I called, “Falling!” and came off.
I watched in slow-motion horror as, one by one, the three marginal nuts pulled. I took a ground fall of about 40 feet onto the large boulder below the dihedral. My feet stayed on the wall slightly longer than my top half, so I fell butt first, hitting the ground in a seated position. On impact, my upper body whipped backward and the back of my head whiplashed the rock. Thanks to my helmet, I remained conscious.
I’m a WFR. I conducted a self-assessment and found no serious trauma. As we didn’t have cell service, my belayer radioed friends on another formation to ask them to call 911. Fortunately, Dihedral Rock is close to the road. When paramedics arrived, I was stable, but the decision was made to move me in a litter and take me by ambulance to the hospital. There, X-rays showed four vertebral fractures in my lower mid-back. My helmet probably saved my life.
Analysis
I didn’t bring the right gear. More small cams would have helped protect the route. Because I fell butt first, my feet pushed me farther from the wall, loading the offset micro-nuts with an outward pull rather than a downward one. The nuts ripped out and never took the full force of the fall. Brassies or RPs might have let the nut bite into the rock and seat differently than the hard aluminum Peenut offsets did. I think brassies, RPs, or non-offset micro-nuts would have been better, because they’d have had more surface area in contact with the rock and would have been more stable.
Just because Mountain Project doesn’t list a climb as dangerous doesn’t mean it’s safe. Every climber needs to consider the risks. This requires examining the route and being willing to bail if things get sketchy. Having watched multiple POV videos of people climbing this route, I think I lacked both skill in placing tiny gear and familiarity with the route. On that last note, I got back on the route four months to the day after my accident and toproped it.
(Source: Mark Ritterpusch.)
Accident Video
Trigger Warning: Ground Fall
We have a video perspective of this accident’s leader fall from a ground-eye view, shot on the climber’s camera.
Iffy gear, thin protection, and sandbagged grades contributed to this accident. Every climber must consider the risks and examine each route for themselves before leaving the ground.
Get Outside Safely—Rescue Coverage
Whether you’re questing off on the twentieth pitch, or checking a landing zone for a boulder, having the AAC’s rescue benefit is a critical step for safety in climbing–ensuring you can find your flow a little more easily knowing we have your back in the case of a medical emergency.
Join the AAC today at the Partner level or higher, and back up your protection with up to $7,500 in rescue benefit and $5,000 in medical-expense coverage.
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