Events

Meet the 2026 American Alpine Club Awardees

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce the recipients of its 2026 awards, recognizing outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing and mountaineering, mountain literature, and dedication to the Club. Awardees will be recognized at the American Alpine Club's Annual Gala on October 24 in Golden, Colorado.

President's Gold Medal: Lynn Hill

Honorary Membership (posthumously): Daryl Miller

The Pinnacle Award: Jimmie Dunn

The Angelo Heilprin Citation: Scott Richards

David R. Brower Conservation Award: Alison Criscitiello

H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Geoff Powter

David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Black Canyon Rescue Team

Robert Hicks Bates Award: Dane Steadman

Keep reading to learn more about each awardee.


President's Gold Medal: Lynn Hill

Image by Heinz Zak.

FOR EXTRAORDINARY ACCOMPLISHMENTS IN THE CLIMBING WORLD

Lynn Hill has spent more than 50 years climbing at the highest levels of the sport, expanding its culture and redefining its limits across the world. Most famously, Hill completed the first free ascent of The Nose in 1993, followed by an all-free ascent of The Nose in one day in 1994—a feat to this day only Hill and Tommy Caldwell have completed.

Throughout her career, Hill repeatedly redefined what was possible in climbing. In 1979 she became the first woman to climb a route rated 5.12d, and in 1991, she became the first woman to climb 5.14. In 1992, Hill became the first woman to onsight 5.13b, and by 1995, she made two first free ascents of 5.12 walls in Kyrgyzstan. In 1999, Hill led an all-women's team to the first ascent of Bravo Les Filles (5.12c/AO or 5.13d) in Madagascar.

In Nina Williams' final year as Board President, she will award Hill the President's Gold Medal, an honor given only seven times since the AAC's founding, recognizing Hill's contributions to climbing.


Honorary Membership: Daryl Miller (posthumously)

Daryl Miller. Image courtesy of Charlie Sassara.

FOR LASTING AND SIGNIFICANT IMPACT ON CLIMBING

Honorary Membership is one of the highest awards the AAC offers. As remembered by longtime friend and fellow alpinist Charlie Sassara, the AAC posthumously recognizes Daryl Miller for his lifetime commitment and passion for adventure, outdoor education, mountain rescue, and climbing in all its forms.

“Daryl was deeply committed to the ethos: ‘Go, but bring back a story.’ Along his journey Daryl touched the hearts of climbers, adventurers, and vagabonds across generations with his keen interest in their plans and adventures.

Daryl became a United States Marine in 1961, served during the Cuban Missile Crisis, and completed two tours in Vietnam. He left the military in 1972 and moved to Montana, working in ranching and as a bullfighter—the guy who steps between an angry bull and a downed cowboy.

In 1991 Daryl joined the National Park Service at Denali National Park as a mountaineering ranger. He eventually led the South District office and oversaw the entire mountain program, but what set him apart was his compassion. Though Daryl often said that “your emergency may not be my emergency,” his actions told a different story. When grieving families arrived at Denali searching for answers about a lost loved one, he stayed with them through it, often at considerable cost to himself.

Daryl was also key to the integration of the NPS Mountaineering Ranger Program with the U.S. Air Force 210th Rescue Squadron (PJs) and was later recognized with the International Alpine Solidarity Award by the guides of Pinzolo, Italy. Daryl’s ‘rescue highlight reel’ includes the rescue of Malcolm Daly from the South Face of Thunder Mountain and the 210th Rescue Squadron’s long line rescue of Jack Tackle from the North Face of Mt. Augusta in 2002.

Fundamentally, Daryl believed that a life well lived should be packed with powerful experiences—the type of experiences that require taking risks that challenge and change you as a person. What really set Daryl apart was his enthusiasm for ‘your’ adventure. Those who stepped into his circle will remember a man who inspired, encouraged, and challenged the people around him, and who very often changed the course of their lives.”


Pinnacle Award: Jimmie Dunn

Jimmie Dunn on Zonked Out. Image by Albert Dow.

FOR OUTSTANDING MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

Jimmie Dunn’s nearly sixty-year career includes impressive ascents that have paved the way for climbers across the world. In 1972, Dunn completed the first ascent of Cosmos on El Capitan—the first new route on the wall completed solo. In 1976, Dunn and Earl Wiggins made the first free ascent of The Cruise in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison after a six-hour effort. Other significant climbs include the third ascent of Standing Rock, the first ascent of Castleton Tower's west face, and the fifth ascent of North Six Shooter, all during a one-week trip in 1971 with Billy Westbay and Stuart Green.

Dunn recounts his extensive climbing career, anchored by vivid memories of fellow mountaineers and adventure, “I remember Bob Palais, as a young climber, bringing me homemade brownies from Boston to North Conway, New Hampshire, every weekend all summer in the early 1970s. In 1976, leading Black Magic barefoot on Cathedral Ledge, with Ajax Greene and Ed Webster following barefoot—we were inspired by 'Hot' Henry Barber's tales of climbing in Dresden, Germany. In 1978, I clearly remember Albert Dow yelling up to me for a photograph on Zonked Out, Woodchuck Ledge, a desperate crack I rated 5.10+++. I was wearing only one climbing shoe and had a bloody bandage around my throbbing butt cheek from a giant beaver’s bite. It’s now rated 5.12b.”

Today, Dunn spends his time supporting his son, CharlieJoe (CJ), in his climbing pursuits, working on his partner Hellen's wild environmental art projects, EARTHflows, at Sky Soul Studio, and putting together a book to celebrate the incredible climbs and climbers he has known, hoping to publish A Rope and Rack, the Shirt on Your Back: Life and Friends of Jimmie Dunn, Climber, within the next year. Dunn shares, “The climbs are cool, but what really matters is the people you meet along the way.”


Angelo Heilprin Citation: Scott Richards

Scott Richards taking on the Power of Four skimo race with his daughter. Image by Scott Richards.

FOR EXEMPLARY SERVICE TO THE CLUB 

The Angelo Heilprin Citation honors AAC members for their long-term dedication to the Club, expressing their passion for climbing, community, and giving back through everyday involvement. Scott Richards is this year’s awardee, honored for his work in maintaining and strengthening the AAC.

Richards grew up in Evergreen, Colorado, and studied at Fort Lewis College before completing graduate work at Colorado State University and a professional certificate at the CU Leeds School of Business. In his twenties, he worked as a mountain guide and outdoor educator around the world, later teaching geography, art, and reading at a Colorado public middle school and then serving as a teacher and principal at the American International School in Gabon, Central Africa. He and his wife returned to the United States when she was pregnant with their second child, and Richards began a career as a financial advisor at Northwestern Mutual. 

Richards has been an AAC member for 23 years and serves on both the AAC Development Committee and the Host Committee for the Annual Gala, drawing on his dual background as a financial advisor and former NOLS instructor. He also sits on the board of Locally Haiti, working to improve health, education, and agriculture in the country. Richards’ reach extends into international climbing and ski mountaineering circles; in April, he and two teammates from Louisville completed the 2026 edition of Switzerland's Patrouille des Glaciers ski mountaineering race in 16 hours. When he's not serving the Club, Richards can be found skiing, running ultras, or bird watching.


David R. Brower Conservation Award: Alison Criscitiello

A melt layer in a section of ice core drilled from Snow Dome, Columbia Icefield, BC. Image by Rebecca Haspel.

FOR LEADERSHIP AND COMMITMENT TO CONSERVATION AND THE PRESERVATION OF MOUNTAIN REGIONS WORLDWIDE

Dr. Alison Criscitiello is a world-renowned ice core scientist and high-altitude mountaineer who explores the history of climate and environmental pollutants in polar and high-alpine regions using ice core chemistry. Criscitiello’s work has taken her to ice caps around the world including Antarctica, Greenland, and the Canadian high Arctic, as well as the summit of Canada’s highest peak, Mt. Logan where she drilled an ice core in 2022. Alongside her scientific research, she is an exceptional storyteller whose work has appeared in film projects, television, and print—including her article “Contraindications,” which won a Banff Mountain Book Competition award in 2018. 

Her accolades are extensive: Criscitiello was elected to the Royal Canadian Geographic Society's College of Fellows, is a Fellow International with The Explorers Club, and was awarded a Queen Elizabeth II's Platinum Jubilee Medal for her significant contributions to Arctic climate research. She has also received three American Alpine Club climbing awards, the Alpine Club of Canada's John Lauchlan Award, and the Mugs Stump Award.

In conjunction with her research, Criscitiello is committed to making science more accessible to young women. As a co-founder of the Girls* on Ice Canada program, she hopes to merge science, art, and adventure to inspire leadership, curiosity, and confidence in the next generation of leaders. Her work has motivated a community of young women to pursue their interests in science and dive into their passions in the outdoors.


H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Geoff Powter

Image by Geoff Powter.

FOR EXCELLENCE IN CLIMBING LITERATURE

Geoff Powter is a climber, writer, and editor, long based in the Canadian Rockies. He is a veteran of 13 Himalayan expeditions, and has been writing about climbing and other risk sports for decades. Geoff was the editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal for 13 years and was the host of the Voices of Adventure interview series at the Banff Mountain Book Festival for 27 years, showcasing his depth of storytelling across media. 

Geoff’s magazine writing has earned him nine National Magazine Awards, and his three books (Strange and Dangerous Dreams, Inner Ranges, and Survival is not Assured: The Life of Climber Jim Donini) have won two National Outdoor Book Awards, a Jury Prize and Best Climbing Book Award at the Banff Mountain Book Festival, and a shortlist for the Boardman-Tasker Award.


David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Black Canyon Rescue Team

An Army Black Hawk helicopter lifts the severely injured Becca Steinbrecher out of the Black Canyon on September 11, 2023. Image by Vic Zeilman.

FOR UNSELFISH DEVOTION TO IMPERILED CLIMBERS

The David A. Sowles Memorial Award, powered by Rocky Talkie, recognizes the Black Canyon Rescue Team for their response to a September 2023 climbing accident in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, where a climber suffered a serious leader fall on Great White Wall and remained unconscious for nearly 11 hours before evacuation.

Twenty-eight rescue personnel took part in the response, most of them volunteers with the Black Canyon SAR team, alongside Black Canyon district and park rangers and Army National Guard personnel. The climber’s partner, Skyeler Congdon, secured her at the anchor before rappelling the route and running out to call for help. NPS ranger Philippe Wheelock led the climbing team that descended into the canyon and reached the climber, alongside SAR volunteer and former NPS climbing ranger Vic Zeilman. Ranger Tom Schaefer directed operations from the rim, while district rangers Ryan Rees and Ryan Thrush oversaw incident command. The Army National Guard's High-Altitude Aviation Training Site provided the helicopter that carried out the final evacuation.

Read the full incident account and analysis in the American Alpine Club’s publications.


Robert Hicks Bates Award: Dane Steadman

Dane Steadman on the summit of a previously unclimbed 6,000m tower, later named Sangar Tower, in the Pakistani Karakoram, in 2025. Image by Blake Berghoff.

FOR OUTSTANDING ACCOMPLISHMENT BY A YOUNG CLIMBER

The 2026 Robert Hicks Bates Award, powered by La Sportiva, honors Dane Steadman. Steadman is a mountaineer in all senses of the word. At only 28 years old, he’s already made his mark with his 2024 first ascent of Tiger Lily Buttress on Yashkuk Sar I and countless other alpine pursuits which span from ascents in his own backyard like Barely Legal to expeditions in the Alaska Range, Karakoram, Himalaya, and Tian Shan.

Steadman describes his start in alpinism as “an inexplicable draw toward high, cold mountains,” which brought him from the heat of the Arizona desert to the cool landscape of Cody, Wyoming where he resides today as a Patagonia ambassador and climbing guide. Steadman spends his free time developing new rock and mixed climbing routes around the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. 

Steadman is a recipient of the 2025 Piolet d’Or and the American Alpine Club’s 2026 Cutting Edge Grant which will fund his next expedition to Pakistan, where he will attempt the north buttress of Gharkun.

The Robert Hicks Bates Award is sponsored by:

 
 

American Alpine Club award winners will be honored with bespoke, sustainable, custom-made awards by metal artist Lisa Issenberg. Lisa is the owner and founder of the Ridgway, Colorado studio, Kiitellä, named after a Finnish word meaning to "thank, applaud, or praise." Lisa has been providing custom awards for the American Alpine Club since 2013. Kiitellä's process includes a mix of both handcraft and industrial techniques. To learn more, visit kiitella.com


Join us on October 24 in Golden, Colorado, as we celebrate these remarkable individuals and the many ways they have shaped climbing. The Annual Gala brings together climbers from across the country for an evening of recognition, connection, and community.


Tickets on Sale for American Alpine Club’s 2026 Annual Gala

Registration is now open for the American Alpine Club's 2026 Annual Gala, taking place October 24 at the historic Buffalo Rose in downtown Golden, Colorado, just steps away from the Club’s library and headquarters.


Nina Williams presenting at the 2025 AAC Gala. Image by Jim Aikman

The American Alpine Club’s Annual Gala brings the climbing community together for an evening of celebration, recognition, and connection. This year's Gala will be anchored by the presentation of eight American Alpine Club Awards, recognizing outstanding achievements in conservation, climbing and mountaineering, mountain literature, and dedication to the Club.

“The Gala is a reminder that climbing is rooted in community, in the places that bring us together, and in the relationships we build along the way,” said Nina Williams, Board President. “I'm looking forward to connecting with old friends, meeting new ones, and celebrating the importance of putting people first. The Gala is a chance to celebrate where we are today while honoring the legacies that have shaped our community and the places we care about.”

With all the excitement and celebration expected from an AAC Gala — including opening receptions, auctions, and exclusive connection points for VIPs — this year’s Gala will celebrate the impact of 2025, and look forward to the Club’s 125th anniversary. All AAC members are invited to an annual membership meeting Saturday morning for continued mingling, connection, and inspiration.


Purchase tickets by visiting americanalpineclub.org/gala, and dust off your cowboy boots. This event is western themed, in the spirit of the historic venue and locale.


Speed Climbing Returns to the 2026 GoPro Mountain Games

When the world’s fastest speed climbers launched off the starting strip at the 2025 GoPro Mountain Games, flying up the 15-meter wall in mere seconds, the reaction was immediate, electric, and unmistakable: Vail had a new obsession.

This year, speed climbing is back for year two at the 2026 GoPro Mountain Games June 4-7. After last year, the Vail Valley Foundation knew they had to bring this back in full force. The discipline is returning with everything that made it a sensation last summer, plus a deeper, more expansive program, with opportunities for everyone to get involved.

The centerpiece of the speed climbing program is once again the YETI North American Cup Series Vail – Speed. This is not a grassroots local comp. The NACS is a pipeline to the World Cup and the Olympics, and many of the athletes competing in Vail are the same names chasing medals on the world stage. 

Two athletes. Side by side. Racing head-to-head up identical routes. The fastest five seconds in sports — right here in the Colorado mountains. 

With speed climbing confirmed for the Los Angeles 2028 Olympic Games, the athletes competing at the NACS in Vail this June are some of the very athletes with LA28 in their sights. Watching these competitors race isn’t just watching sport — it’s watching the future of the Olympic climbing program unfold in real time. 

“We’re excited to bring the North American Cup back to the GoPro Mountain Games and to once again showcase Boulder and Speed climbing in such an iconic setting,” said Marc Norman, President & CEO of USA Climbing.” After such a successful debut of Speed last year, we look forward to giving athletes and fans another full weekend of intense climbing competition!” 

The GoPro Mountain Games are free to the public to attend, but it’s not too late to register to compete!


Emiko Takeuchi Returns to Vail Fresh Off Big Win

Photo by Dan Gajda/USA Climbing.

This teen climber is literally soaring up the ranks. Growing up in Atlanta, GA, Emiko Takeuchi explored several activities as a child. She tried soccer and ballet. She wasn’t bad, but found them boring. Then she tried climbing at a friend’s climbing gym birthday party. She was hooked.

Now at age 17, Takeuchi is a World Cup-level climber who recently landed her inaugural North American Cup victory. She can’t wait to return to climbing walls in Vail at this year’s GoPro Mountain Games.

Takeuchi has competed in the Youth World Championships and has two World Cup competitions under her belt. She excels at all disciplines but has made her most prominent statement in speed. At the season opening North American Cup speed event this April in Bridgeport, Penn., Takeuchi shot up the wall like Spiderwoman and walked away with the gold medal.

She made quarter finals last year at the Mountain Games’ first-ever North American Cup speed climbing competition, and she will compete once again this June in the YETI North American Cup Series Vail – Speed as well as in the North American Cup Series Vail Boulder competition, presented by CELSIUS.


Sign Up for AAC Emails

The 2025 Annual Gala: Celebrating the Climbing Life

The AAC Gala. PC: Jim Aikman

This event was supported by Vibram, Adidas FiveTen, and First Western Trust. 

At this year's AAC Gala, the energy for celebrating climbing was unprecedented. Three hundred sixteen climbers from all over the country gathered in Denver, CO, including longtime members, athletes, awardees, and climbing legends. The night was filled with bold stories of climbing, community, and history. There was a thread connecting them all: the American Alpine Club.

“The AAC is a people-first organization,” Nina Williams remarked in her opening speech. She noted that the AAC’s grants, lodging, events, advocacy, library and archives, volunteers, and membership all bring people together. 

Nina Williams. PC: Jim Aikman

AAC Executive Director Ben Gabriel noted that climbing isn’t only about the summits we reach but the partnerships we build, and as the AAC looks towards the future, we are stronger together. 

As one way to celebrate the richness of the people that make up the AAC, the 2025 awards were given out for accomplishments in climbing, advocacy, literacy, and volunteerism. French Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne of Chamonix received the David A. Sowles Memorial Award. Other award winners included Michael Wejchert for the H. Adams Carter Literary Award, Brooke Raboutou for the Robert Hicks Bates Award, Rick Wilcox for the Angelo Heilprin Citation, and Outdoor Alliance for the David R. Brower Conservation Award. Later, Jack Tackle accepted the Honorary Membership award, and Kelly Cordes accepted the Pinnacle Award during their speeches. 

Recipient of multiple AAC grants, AAC member Zach Clanton told the story of his most recent climb on the Southeast Face of The Trickster in Alaska, where he and Matt Kilgerman put up The Raven-Wolf Route (5.10 C2). It was the second ascent the mountain had seen. John Svenson had first climbed it 42 years ago.

“This summer, we pulled off a 6,000-foot pure rock climb on a mountain with all the mysteries intact. This was high adventure at its finest,” said Clanton. 

During this climb, Clanton felt connected to past generations of Alaskan adventurers like Svenson, an Alaskan artist and climber, whose art was included in the Gala auction. The climb inspired Clanton to connect to his artistic side. Clanton went on to reflect on how the Trickster ascent represented how all of those AAC grants over the years had literally changed his life’s trajectory.

Kelly Cordes. PC: Jim Aikman

When former AAJ editor and Pinnacle Award winner Kelly Cordes took the stage, we learned he was a super fan of Jack Tackle when he was a young climber in the 90s. When Tackle visited Missoula, Montana, where Cordes was living at the time, Cordes went to hear him speak. After Tackle was done speaking, Cordes got the courage to go up to Tackle. 

“Jack gave me the gift of his attention and his presence, and I came away feeling not that I can be him—we all know there’s only one Jack f***ing Tackle—but deeply inspired as a person beyond the super hero I thought he was and who I now know him to be,” said Cordes. 

Cordes went on to describe his inspiration drawn from the AAJ—”it was, and it still is, like the Bible to me”—and his many adventures as an alpinist. 

After all this talk about Jack Tackle, Tackle himself finally took to the stage and imposed wisdom on the room. 

PC: Jim Aikman

“The three tenets I came up with as my mantra for alpinism were first, commitment. Commitment to the goal, to yourself, and to your partners. Vision, the second one, was the ability to see what is possible and make a plan to achieve it. And the last was trust. Trust in yourself and trust in your partners,” said Tackle. 

Much like the chatter around a campfire after a long day of climbing, this Gala was full of high energy, sharing stories and laughter. The celebration of our climbing history and the push to pave the way for the future of climbing were inspiring. With all the laughter and catching up with old friends, there was an undertone of passion—passion for what we want to see next, passion for the importance of storytelling, and passion for uplifting one another. When climbers come together through the AAC, we make an impact. 

The money raised through the live auction and donations at the Gala will be extremely influential, but the work doesn’t stop there.  

With all this vigor from the Gala, the AAC wants to continue to bring exceptional benefits to climbers, like the AAC rescue benefit, the Live Your Dream Grant, Accidents in North American Climbing, the American Alpine Journal, and advocating for the places we love, to name a few of our incredibly impactful programs. 

We need your support to continue delivering unmatched resources for climbers. Help us grow and continue to do the work we are most passionate about: supporting climbers. 

Guidebook XV—Balance

A Profile on Robert Hicks Bates Award Winner Brooke Raboutou

By Sierra McGivney

Photos by Jess Glassberg/LouderThan11

Brooke Raboutou had booked her flight home. She had one final session to send Excalibur 9b+ (5.15c)—an18-move, 40-degree crimpy sport climb near Arco, Italy—before that flight. She felt good about it. She needed the time pressure, similar to a competition. In her mind, two things were true: She might have to walk away from Excalibur for the season, and she could send it during that final session.

On Saturday, she began her day like every other, with yoga and meditation in her Airbnb, breakfast, and a warm up at her friends’ climbing wall. It was the warmest day she had had in Italy, a good sign, since she had previously numbed out on the climb. On her first try on the route that day, she fell on the last move. We’re getting into it, that felt good,Raboutou thought. She fell off the third move on her second try, which hadn’t happened in a while. She wasn’t frustrated; this was part of the process.

“I felt like I mentally was in a place where I was able to try harder than I had before, and had more of a margin than maybe a month ago, from just training on the climb,” said Raboutou.

She rested for 30 seconds and then hopped back on, trying harder than ever. Not every move was perfect, but this time, she stuck the final move from the ground, and time stopped as she clipped the chains.

She topped out the feature, making the moment even more special. Every fall, every moment of doubt, all the ripped skin and sore muscles, the days filled with cold weather, were background noise to this moment, this historic climb—Raboutou believing fully in her abilities and achieving something only a few climbers have.

With her ascent of Excalibur, Brooke Raboutou became the first woman in the world to climb 5.15c.

This cutting-edge success didn’t come out of nowhere. Raboutou has been crushing boulders for the last few years while balancing the Climbing World Cup, the Olympics, and college.

In May 2020, she sent Muscle Car (V14), her first of the grade. Her summer bouldering season in Rocky Mountain National Park saw solid sends with The Automator (V13), The Shining (V12/V13), The Wheel of Chaos (V13), Doppelgänger Poltergeist (V13),and Jade (V14). Raboutou also attended the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics, earning fifth in the overall combined event (speed, lead, and bouldering).

After the Tokyo Olympics, she felt very low and lost for a while. It was a pivotal time—she was a sophomore in college and still figuring out what she wanted to do with her life. She didn’t expect to feel the post-Olympics depression that a lot of athletes deal with. Raboutou worked with a sports psychologist and a therapist to help her process her emotions and goals in this heightened context of elite competition. She started to put her well-being above climbing and training. She is still constantly working on shifting that paradigm.

Photo by Jess Glassberg/LouderThan11.

It’s no surprise that in 2021 and 2022, Raboutou sent a handful of V13s and V14s, most of them documented on her Instagram and Mellow Climbing’s YouTube: Euro Trash (V12/8a+) and Euro Roof Low Low (V13/8b) in Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah; Trieste (V14) in Red Rocks, Nevada; Heritage (V13), La Proue (V13) and Lur (V14) in Switzerland, snagging the FFA for La Proue; and Evil Backwards (V13) in the Mt. Blue Sky area, Colorado.

By the end of 2022, only three women had climbed V15, and none had climbed V16. But the dream was there.

Early in 2023, Raboutou graduated from the University of San Diego with a degree in marketing—something she was cautioned against since she had a full-time professional climbing career. She also took classes in psychology and was interested in how mental health and climbing interact. Balancing learning and climbing was important to her.

“I love climbing so much, but I’ve always believed it cannot be my everything,” said Raboutou.

In October of 2023, Raboutou sent Box Therapy (V15/V16) in Rocky Mountain National Park, and she promptly downgraded it from V16 to V15. Her brother, Shawn Raboutou, an elite boulderer who has climbed V17, sent the boulder that same day. In an Instagram post, she wrote, “I first touched this boulder in September 2022 and have not stopped dreaming about it since that day. It took me a whole year to get back on it, but in a few sessions, I was able to stand atop one of the most beautiful climbs I’ve ever done.”

The following year, she turned her sights toward the 2024 Paris Olympics. With only two spots for women on the bouldering and lead USA climbing Olympic team, the pressure was on. Natalia Grossman secured the first spot during the Pan American Games in Chile. In June 2024, Raboutou secured her place on the team in the Budapest Olympic Qualifiers.

Coming back to the Olympics the second time, she felt more grown up. She knew what to expect and had built a support team since Tokyo that would help her thrive under the unique pressure of competing in the Olympics.

Photo by Jess Glassberg/LouderThan11.

For most of the competition, Raboutou was neck and neck with Janja Garnbret, a Slovenian climber widely considered one of the best competition climbers of all time, who had taken home gold in the Tokyo Olympics. After a stellar showing during the boulder- ing finals, Raboutou launched into the final lead competition knowing she would medal in some form for the combined event. Ultimately, Garnbret eked out more points, taking home gold once again. Once Garnbret lowered, climbers and non-climbers alike watched as the two hugged, smiling—sharing an emo- tional moment. Raboutou took home silver in the combined bouldering and lead category, becoming the first American woman to win an Olympic medal in climbing.

With such a massive win behind her, Raboutou visited Europe in November and December 2024 to find a project that would push her limits. She was following her brother around, and he encouraged her to hop on Excalibur.

Cristian Dorigatti and Morris Fontanari originally bolted Excalibur. The route is named for a sculpture of a sword in an anvil near the base of the climb. Shortly after bolting the route, the pair invited Stefano Ghisolfi to try it. He made the first ascent of Excalibur in 2023. Will Bosi made the second ascent on February 3, 2025. The route had a definite mystique.

Raboutou knew she wanted to climb the route the first time she touched it. The climb was in her style while still pushing her—something she constantly strives for. With 18 moves, the climb is almost like a long boulder. She was progressing fast; by the fourth or fifth session on Excalibur, Raboutou was falling on the last move.

The crux for most other climbers is a notorious two-finger pocket undercling combined with a high heel hook in a tight box. Because of her flexibility, this move was one of the easier moves for Raboutou. Still, the subsequent and final move required her to launch out of this position and reach farther than most other climbers because of her height. The sequence was frustrating, but she would define it as a love-hate relationship.

However, variables like skin, weather, and a minor shoulder injury slowed her progression. Raboutou decided to come back in March when the weather would be warmer. However, she was still numbing out because of how the holds hit her fingers, causing her to lose circulation. She had to play with the variables to figure out the best method: Hand warmers. Heaters. Warm up. Go.

This left Raboutou with a lot of doubt: “Is it the variables? Am I not strong enough? Will it ever happen? It was many, many sessions falling on the last move and feeling close. But also, like, am I? Am I close? Am I delusional? What am I doing out here?”

In addition, she only had three outcomes when projecting the climb: regress, match her highpoint, or send. This left her in a frustrating position. She worked on trying to enjoy the process and to be present.

“From the beginning, I was like, ‘I want to be out here, until I no longer want to be out here—I’m not trying to beat myself up’,” said Raboutou.

Excalibur was so different from her last year of climbing in the spotlight of the Olympic qualifiers and then participating in the Olympics.

“It was really like a sanctuary for myself to be out there and have this purpose of trying something really hard, but away from the world,” said Raboutou. “No one really knew what I was trying or how I was doing on it.”

She reached a point where she was enjoying the process but knew she would be mentally exhausted by the next week. She booked her plane ticket home. During the final session of her trip she tried harder than she ever had before and sent Excalibur.

This is the first time a new grade was broken within women’s sport climbing since Angela Eiter’s ascent of La Planta de Shiva (5.15b) in October 2017. Margo Hayes was the first woman to send a route in the 5.15 range with her ascent of La Rambla (5.15a) in Spain in February 2017. Other women have broken into the 5.15 range since 2017, but not 5.15c.

Photo by Jess Glassberg/LouderThan11.

“Brooke Raboutou imagined something no woman had ever done,” said Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, Brooke’s mom, as well as a four-time Overall World Cup winner and the third woman to climb 5.14a. “Then she became the one to do it, driven not by expectation but by a dream she made on her own.”

Only ten people, including Raboutou, have climbed routes at the 5.15c grade. The others are Chris Sharma, Sean Bailey, Will Bosi, Adam Ondra, Jakob Schubert, Seb Bouin, Stefano Ghisolfi, Alex Megos, and Jorge Díaz-Rullo. Only ten climbs exist at this grade, and only three exist at the 5.15d grade, none of which have seen repeat ascents. Raboutou becomes the third American to climb 5.15c.

“Climbing a route like Excalibur shows how far the sport has come in the sense of us women not just catching up but actually getting even closer to the men’s benchmarks,” said Janja Garnbret, when asked about the significance of this ascent. “It expands the definition of what’s possible and encourages more women to aim for higher goals and believe they can operate at the absolute limit of the sport. Good job by Brooke for committing to this project, sticking to it through the low times, and finally pulling it off!”

“I’m always trying to push my own limit, and I hope that that pushes the sport’s limit at the same time,” said Raboutou.

When asked who she is outside of climbing, she said simply, “I’m Brooke.” Whether she’s at the crag eating peanut M&M’s or locked in training with Fleetwood Mac in her headphones, her climbing partners would describe her as a diligent worker who is hard on herself, but above all else, is in love with climbing.

Photo by Jess Glassberg/LouderThan11.

Excalibur unlocked this balance of joy and determination for Raboutou. When Raboutou climbs outside, she can fully listen to her mind and body and choose what she wants to climb and how hard. Maybe she can revel in the joy of it. With competitions, if she’s having a bad day, it doesn’t matter; she has to perform. She was almost too comfortable with falling on the last move of Excalibur, swayed by the calmer pace of projecting on rock. So she borrowed from her competition background, injecting some urgency, determination, and time pressure into her experience, and kicked things up a notch. She pulled in one of her biggest strengths, wielding it like King Arthur when he pulled the mythical sword from the stone.

“I feel like I’m constantly unlocking and relearning at the same time, which is kind of the beauty of life, right?” said Raboutou.


Brooke Raboutou will receive the Robert Hicks Bates Award for outstanding accomplishments by a young climber at the AAC Gala on October 18, 2025. She was nominated for the award before news broke of her ascent of Excalibur, proving that Raboutou is just getting started.


Sign Up for AAC Emails

2025 American Alpine Club Gala Awards

MEET THE AWARDEES

Discover their incredible stories, then join us for the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala to hear more!


The Robert Hicks Bates Award: Brooke Raboutou

"Trieste" (V14) —Red Rock National Conservation Area, NV. Photo by Jess Glassberg/Louder Than Eleven.

FOR OUTSTANDING ACCOMPLISHMENT BY A YOUNG CLIMBER

Brooke Raboutou grew up in Boulder, CO, where she began climbing at age two. At 11, Raboutou sent Welcome to Tijuana (5.14b) in Rodellar, Spain, becoming the youngest person to climb the route. From 2020 to 2022, Raboutou pushed bouldering grades, sending Muscle Car (V14), The Atomator (V13), The Shining (V12/13), The Wheel of Chaos (V13), Doppelgänger Poltergeist (V13), Jade (V14), Euro Trash (V12/8a+), Euro Roof Low Low (V13/8b) Trieste (V14), Heritage (V13), La Proue (V13), Lur (V14), Evil Backwards (V13). Raboutou was the first American to qualify for the Olympics, and during the Tokyo Olympics in 2021, she finished 5th. 

In October 2023, Raboutou sent Box Therapy in Rocky Mountain National Park and promptly downgraded it from V16 to V15. In 2024, Raboutou won silver in the combined bouldering and lead competition at the Paris Olympics, becoming the first American woman to win an Olympic medal in climbing. In April 2025, Raboutou sent Excalibur (5.15c), becoming the first woman to send the grade. 


David R. Brower Conservation Award: Outdoor Alliance 

Crested Butte. Photo by Holly Mandarich.

FOR LEADERSHIP AND COMMITMENT TO CONSERVATION AND THE PRESERVATION OF MOUNTAIN REGIONS WORLDWIDE

Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the Surfrider Foundation. For more than ten years, Outdoor Alliance has united the human-powered outdoor recreation community to achieve lasting conservation victories. Its work has helped to permanently protect 40 million acres of public land, secure $5.1 billion in funding for the outdoors, and convert more than 100,000 outdoor enthusiasts into outdoor advocates. Adam Cramer will be accepting the award on behalf of Outdoor Alliance. He is the founding Executive Director and present CEO of Outdoor Alliance. During his time as CEO, Adam has brought new sensibilities to conservation work that have resulted in hundreds of thousands more acres of protected landscapes, improved management for outdoor recreation, and thousands of outdoor enthusiasts awakened to conservation and advocacy work. He is an avid whitewater kayaker and mountain biker, but is always on the lookout for a good skatepark. 


Honorary Membership: Jack Tackle

Chilling ll in the Kishtwar Himalaya in India in 2015. Photo by Renny Jackson.

Honorary Membership is one of the highest awards the AAC offers. The award is given to those individuals who have had a lasting and highly significant impact on the advancement of the climbing craft.

For 52 years, Jack Tackle has focused on alpine climbing, particularly first ascents, in the Himalayas, South America, and Alaska. Jack Tackle is best known for his climbing in Alaska. He has done 35 separate trips, combining both attempts and successes since 1976, and completed 17 significant first ascents in Alaska’s various ranges. Tackle is a past Board member of the AAC (nine years) and served as Treasurer of the AAC from 2009-2012. He has been a member of the AAC since 1978. He presently serves on the Pinnacle and Grand Teton Climber Ranch committees and is the chairman of the AAC Cutting Edge Grant committee. For 30 years, Tackle was an independent sales rep for outdoor brands, including Patagonia, Black Diamond Equipment, and Vasque Footwear. In addition, Tackle guided for Exum Mountain Guides in the Tetons for 40 years, from 1982 to 2022.


The H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Michael Wejchert

Michael Wejchert. Photo by Alexa Siegel.

FOR EXCELLENCE IN CLIMBING LITERATURE

Michael Wejchert began climbing as a scared ten-year-old in a swami belt. Now a scared thirty-nine-year-old, rock and ice climbing remain his overriding passion. He began writing about climbing in high school and hasn't stopped. In 2013, he won the Waterman Fund Essay Contest for a piece called Epigoni, Revisited, about a failed attempt to climb Mount Deborah in the Hayes Range of Alaska. His first book, Hidden Mountains, won a National Outdoor Book Award in 2023. His essays and features have appeared in virtually every North American climbing magazine and major media outlets: Alpinist, Ascent, Rock & Ice, Appalachia, and the New York Times, to name a few. He is a proud contributing editor at the new Summit Journal. He lives just down the road from Cathedral Ledge, New England's finest trad cliff.


The Pinnacle Award: Kelly Cordes

Kelly Cordes at the team's second bivy, Great Trango Tower, 2004. Photo by Josh Wharton.

FOR OUTSTANDING MOUNTAINEERING AND CLIMBING ACHIEVEMENTS

As an undersized kid who wanted to be a cowboy, Kelly Cordes never dreamed that climbing would define his life. But he stumbled upon an obsession that took him to places of unimaginable beauty and infused his world with meaning. He established challenging alpine routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia, and Pakistan along the way. Some of his notable ascents include: the first ascent of the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower, Pakistan; first link-up of Tiempos Perdidos and the upper West Face ice routes on Cerro Torre, Patagonia; first ascent of Personal Jesus on Nevado Ulta, Peru; first ascent of The Trailer Park on London Tower, Alaska; first ascent of Deadbeat, Thunder Mountain, Alaska; and the first ascent of Ring of Fire, Thunder Mountain, Alaska. His personal experiences intersected with a larger journey in his award-winning book, The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre. Cordes was also a senior editor of the American Alpine Journal for many years. He claims to never tire of mountains and wild places. 


The David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Jacques-Olivier Chevallier, Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis

Photo by GMHM.

FOR UNSELFISH DEVOTION TO IMPERILED CLIMBERS 

McNeill-Nott Award recipient Michaelle Dvorak and her climbing partner, Fay Manners, attempted a first ascent on Chaukhamba III (6,995m) in northern India. Falling rocks sliced their rope, sending their haul bag, with most of their gear, plummeting down the mountain. The two sent out an SOS before Dvorak’s phone died and hunkered down as a storm rolled in. They waited for rescue, but helicopters circled them without seeing them. After two days of waiting, they decided to descend on the third day. They only had one set of crampons, making the impending challenge a high-consequence affair. 

Three climbers from the French Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne of Chamonix, or the High Mountain Military Group, named Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis, and Jacques-Olivier Chevallier had heard that two climbers were missing and abandoned their attempt on the peak’s east pillar to rescue the two climbers. The High Mountain Military Group is an elite and small unit that includes some of the best mountaineers in the French Armed Forces among its members.

The two climbers safely reached the French advanced base camp with Vivien Berlaud, Paulin Clovis, and Jacques-Olivier Chevallier's help. The Indian Mountaineering Federation (IMF) helicoptered them out the next day. 

Vivien Berlaud is a sergeant of the High Mountain Military Group. 

Photo by GMHM

Paulin Clovis is a member of the High Mountain Military Group. In 2023, he did the first repeat and winter ascent of Directissima (1200m 7a A2) on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses. 

Jaques-Oliver Chevallier is a High Mountain Military Group member and a mountain guide. Some of his accomplishments include: the Triple Direct (975m VI 5.9 C2) on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley; Cassin Route (1200m IV 5.9+ TD+/ED1 A1) on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses; Mont Blanc with a client; and Intégrale de Peuterey (4545m VI 5.9 WI4 M5) in the Mont Blanc massif.


Angelo Heilprin Citation: Rick Wilcox

Ty Marshall, Edge of the World 5.13c, The Prow Area, Cathedral Ledge, NH. Photo by Andrew Burr.

FOR EXEMPLARY SERVICE TO THE CLUB 

“Rick embodies the spirit of the Angelo Heilprin Citation through his decades of tireless service to the AAC, his instrumental role in establishing and leading critical mountain rescue operations, his entrepreneurial vision in fostering a thriving climbing community, and his dedication to our community and pursuits. It is without reservation that we select Rick Wilcox for the Angelo Heilprin Citation.” - Selection Committee.

Rick Wilcox has exemplified the dedication and service required for the Heilprin Citation for over half a century. He has been an AAC member since 1973 and served as secretary to three AAC presidents, providing invaluable continuity and institutional knowledge. He was also a member of the AAC Board of Directors and a highly active participant in the AAC New England section.

In 1976, while managing EMS in North Conway, NH, he was instrumental in establishing Mountain Rescue Service (MRS). He then served as MRS president for an impressive 41 years, leading essential rescue operations in the extreme environments of the White Mountain National Forest, which was recognized in 1999 when the New Hampshire MRS received the David A. Sowles Award for critical assistance to climbers.

Beyond his direct contributions to the AAC and mountain rescue, Wilcox purchased International Mountain Equipment in 1979, a pillar of the climbing community. Later, he co-owned International Mountain Climbing School with Brad White, which grew into a highly respected brand. In 1993, Rick, alongside Nick Yardley, co-founded the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, now the premier ice climbing event in the Northeast. He also had a six-year tenure as a director of the American Mountain Guides Association.

Wilcox’s unwavering dedication to the Club has benefited countless climbers for decades, particularly in the Northeast, where he has been a vital behind-the-scenes nexus. 


American Alpine Club award winners will be honored with bespoke, sustainable, custom-made awards by metal artist Lisa Issenberg. Lisa is the owner and founder of the Ridgway, Colorado studio, Kiitellä, named after a Finnish word meaning to "thank, applaud, or praise." Lisa has been providing custom awards for the American Alpine Club since 2013. Kiitellä's process includes a mix of both handcraft and industrial techniques. To learn more, visit kiitella.com


Attend the 2025 American Alpine Club Gala in Denver, CO, on October 18, 2025, to hear more from these awardees.


Suffer Well: A Climbing (and Life) Philosophy, with Kelly Cordes

Every year, the AAC bestows awards to climbing changemakers and celebrates their accomplishments at the AAC Gala. We’ll be announcing those award winners in mid July, but first, we wanted to give our listeners a sneak peak into the stories awaiting you, through diving into the life and personality of one awardee.  We invited the alpinist and climber Kelly Cordes, who will be receiving the Pinnacle Award this year, onto the pod to celebrate his outstanding mountaineering and climbing achievements, and simply to ramble a bit and tell good stories. Though too humble to brag, Cordes is known for his bold ascents, including the Azeem Ridge on Great Trango Tower, a link-up on Cerro Torre, many first ascents in Peru and Alaska, as well as his “disaster style” and “suffer well” philosophy. With a 20-year lens, we have Cordes reflect on the Azeem Ridge story and tell it anew with all that he’s learned since then. We also spend some time talking about his writing life, including supporting editing the AAJ for 12 years, and co-writing the bestseller, The Push, with his close friend Tommy Caldwell. Dive in to get just a taste of Cordes’ story, and why he’s committed to suffering well.


An Update on the AAC's Craggin' Classic Series and Hueco Rock Rodeo

PC: Hunter Johnson, @shinyshinysilver

The American Alpine Club will no longer host the Craggin’ Classic Series or the Hueco Rock Rodeo. We’re thrilled with the impact these events have had over the years and the ways they connected the climbing community. At the same time, we’re inspired by our new Strategic Plan and are confident that we are equipped to deliver even greater impact for climbers with this plan guiding the AAC’s activities for the next three years.

PC: Hunter Johnson

The AAC ran the Craggin’ Classic Series for 13 years, and we're proud of the positive impact those events had on climbers and communities over that time. Nina Williams, AAC Board President, first connected with the Club through the Craggin’ series, and she is not alone. It is certainly true the Craggin’s were a party with a heart, and they truly epitomized bringing the community together over a passion for climbing. Across the 13 years of this series, we estimate that we've served over 30,000 attendees and nearly 8,000 clinic participants. Those same participants have given back to the local crags that host these events with well over 10,000 stewardship hours.

Additionally, the AAC hosted the Hueco Rock Rodeo event for over a decade, and we're proud to have played a role in responsibly introducing thousands of climbers from around the globe to this amazing landscape and world-class bouldering destination. The Rodeo focused on encouraging climbers to challenge themselves through friendly competition while fostering a strong sense of community. It was also an important vehicle to introduce many climbers to the ethics of respecting a fragile landscape and the Indigenous communities that share this land. We’re excited to continue to be a conduit for responsible climbing in Hueco through our iconic lodging facility, the Hueco Rock Ranch. 

We look forward to continuing to serve our members, engage local communities, and celebrate climbing through both new and existing initiatives. Please visit this page to learn more about the recently adopted AAC Strategic Plan.



Climbers of the Craggin' Classic: Ozarks

Ozarks Craggin’ Photos by Joe Kopek

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, Bishop, Ozarks—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


Meet Ozarks Climber: Andrew Gamma

Scroll to read Andrew‘s Story…



CLIMB: Katie Lamb Dives Deep on Her Send of Box Therapy, and Losing Anonymity

In 2023, Katie Lamb sent Box Therapy. It was a definite level-up for her personal climbing, and with this ascent, she became the first woman in history to climb a boulder that many consider to be V16. Her landmark send made waves, and that’s why she is a finalist for the AAC’s Climb of the Year Award. We chatted with Katie about all that went into projecting Box Therapy, her climbing philosophy, how to use excuses to your advantage on bad days, what it was like to lose anonymity, her secret to work-climbing balance, the experience of everyone talking about you on the internet, and being authentic in the current climbing world.



2024 Annual Benefit Gala Awards

MEET THE AWARDEES

Discover their incredible stories, then join us for the 2024 Annual Benefit Gala to hear more!


The Climb of the Year Award

For pushing the limits of climbing, whether that is the grade or the most epic story—the redemption arc, the new frontier, or defying the odds. This award is determined by public voting.

The 2024 nominees include:

  • Round Trip Ticket (M7 AI5+ A0 2700M), Jannu (7710m), Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau

  • B.I.G. (5.15d), Jakob Schubert

  • Aletheia (D16), Kevin Lindlau

  • Box Therapy (V16, contested), Katie Lamb.


The Community Changemaker Award

For the movers and shakers, the innovators, the loud voices and the doers. The people who, no matter the size of their platform, are making an outsized difference in shaping the future of our climbing community.

The 2024 nominees include:

  • Tommy Caldwell

  • Adaptive Climber's Festival

  • Marcus Garcia


The Robert Hicks Bates Award: Matt Cornell

For an Outstanding Accomplishment by a Young Climber

Matt Cornell grew up in Michigan, where he began climbing at the age of 13. Once he turned 18, he headed west to climb full-time, following the seasons from Bozeman to Yosemite, and then on to Patagonia and the Himalayas. In 2021, after steadily building his skills and experience, he and Jackson Marvell (Robert Hicks Bates Award recipient in 2020) established two new routes on Pyramid Peak in Alaska's Revelation Range, Techno Terror (AI6 M7+ R A0) and Smoke' Em If You Got 'Em (AI5+ A2+); Austin Schmitz and Jack Cramer joined the latter ascent. Cornell received the American Alpine Club's Cutting Edge Grant for this trip.

In late March 2023, with Marvell and Rousseau, the three climbed a new route on the east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska's Ruth Gorge over three days, Aim For the Bushes (AI6 M6 X). Then, in early October, roping up with Marvell and Rousseau over seven days, they climbed a new route on the north face of Jannu, 7,710m, in alpine style. They called their line Round Trip Ticket (M7 AI5+ A0).


Angelo Heilprin Citation: Alison Osius

For Exemplary Service to the Club

"We chose [Alison] from a list of candidates we've carefully curated over the years. As many can attest, she's shown exemplary service to the Club by devoting countless hours in various recent and past roles, including as the Club's first woman president, from 1998 to 1999." -Selection Committee.

Alison Osius has been devoted to the Club for decades. She attends board meetings, annual dinners, panel discussions, and Club events. She's a trusted authority, a keeper of institutional knowledge, and vital to the community. Osisus is known for her engagement and mentoring of younger climbers and writers in their careers and her ability to relate to people from all walks of life who enjoy different climbing styles. 

As the Club's first female president (1998-1999), Alison led the AAC’s first extended public outreach campaign and continued the effort into rule-making on fixed anchors in Wilderness. Her many years of elegant writing and superb editing for prominent publications have delighted climbing and outdoor audiences. She is a senior editor at Outside and a former editor at Climbing and Rock and Ice. Osius has written for CNN.com, The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Wall Street Journal. 

Her strengths as a storyteller, communicator, and role model build on her many years of climbing experience, including her previous work as a climbing guide in the U.S. and U.K. and becoming a three-time national champion in sport climbing, X Games finalist, and top-10 World Cup finisher. Rooted in her love of climbing, her abiding curiosity and exploration of our world, and her empathetic and inclusive approach to others, Alison's exemplary service to the Club has dramatically strengthened the AAC. 


Honorary Membership: Kitty Calhoun and Geoff Tabin

Honorary Membership is one of the highest awards the AAC offers. It is given to those individuals who have had a lasting and highly significant impact on the advancement of the climbing craft.

The Honorary Membership Committee has selected Kitty Calhoun and Geoff Tabin as our 2024 nominees. Both are well known and recognized for their amazing climbing achievements, exemplary service to their communities, and lifetimes of noteworthy activities which reflect well on climbing—Tabin in medical outreach to underserved peoples often in mountain regions and Calhoun in her leadership actively supporting the development of women in climbing during the last 30 years.

Kitty Calhoun is honored to receive this award and happy to share her most proud accomplishments. She received an MBA from the University of Vermont, where she found her passion for ice and alpine climbing. This led to a 40+ year career as a guide for the NC and CO Outward Bound Schools, American Alpine Institute, and Chicks Climbing and Skiing. Calhoun founded Exum Utah Mountain Guides and later became co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing. She is also an ambassador for Patagonia, SCARPA, PMI ropes, POW, and Lion Energy. Additionally, Kitty has been a member of the American Alpine Club since she can remember, has served on the Board of Directors, was Chairperson of the Expeditions Committee, and has received the AAC's Pinnacle Award. 

Calhoun's mountaineering achievements include a rare ascent of the Diamond Couloir on Mt Kenya, the first American female ascent of Dhaulagiri, three new Grade VI rock routes in Kyrgyzstan, and a new route on Middle Triple Peak in Alaska. She attributes her successes to applying the power of teamwork, which she learned through alpine climbing.

Geoffrey Tabin began climbing at Devil's Lake, Wisconsin. He went to college at Yale University, where he explored the rock and ice climbs of the Northeast from New York, New Hampshire, and Vermont, in addition to trips out West. He joined the American Alpine Club in 1977. He then went to Oxford University in England, where he and his climbing partner climbed the classic hard routes of the Alps. He received grants from the American Alpine Club and Oxford University to climb in Africa and Irian Jaya, Indonesia. They climbed the Ice Window route on Mt. Kenya and the first ascents of three long rock routes on the Mt. Kenya Massif, including the first free ascent of the Diamond Buttress on Mt. Kenya (V 5.11). In Indonesia, they climbed all five of the highest peaks in the Carstenz range, including the first ascent of the North Face of Puncak Jaya (Carstenz Pyramid). In 1983, Tabin was part of the American team that made the first ascent of the Kangshung East Face of Mt. Everest. In 1990, he became the 4th person to reach the top of all seven continents. Along the way, he also completed first ascents of rock or ice routes on all seven continents, including the first ascents of five 6,000-meter peaks. Tabin attended Harvard Medical School, trained as an ophthalmologist, and then worked as an eye surgeon in Nepal. He established the Himalayan Cataract Project, which is dedicated to overcoming needless blindness through education, training, and establishing a sustaining infrastructure. After returning to the United States, Tabin taught at both the University of Vermont and the University of Utah while spending three to four months per year working in Asia and Africa. He is currently the Fairweather Foundation Chair and Professor of ophthalmology and global medicine at Stanford University.


The H. Adams Carter Literary Award: James Edward Mills

For Excellence in Climbing Literature

James Edward Mills is a National Geographic Explorer and a contributor to National Geographic Magazine, a Fellow of the Banff Center Mountain & Wilderness Writing Program in Alberta, Canada, and a recipient of the Paul K. Petzoldt Award For Environmental Education. He has worked in the outdoor industry since 1989 as a guide, outfitter, independent sales representative, writer, and photographer. He is the author of the book The Adventure Gap: Changing the Face of the Outdoors and the co-writer/co-producer of the documentary film An American Ascent. Mills is a contributor to several outdoor-focused print and online publications such as National Geographic, Outside, Rock & Ice, Alpinist, SUP, Elevation Outdoors, Women's Adventure, the Clymb, Park Advocate, High Country News, Appalachia Journal, The Guardian, The New York Times, Sierra, and Land & People. 

In recognition of his work sharing the important history and legacy of the Buffalo Soldiers and their efforts at the dawn of the National Park Service, James was named a Yosemite National Park Centennial Ambassador in 2016. Currently, Mills is a faculty assistant at the University of Wisconsin Nelson Institute For Environmental Studies and teaches a summer course for undergraduate students on diversity, equity, and inclusion in outdoor recreation and public land management called Outdoors For All. His climbing accomplishments include two ascents, one solo, of the mountaineers' route on California's Mount Whitney, sport climbing routes on the Gheralta Massif of Ethiopia, a team ascent of Mt. Baker, and a trek to Everest Base Camp.

The committee believes it's hard to overstate the importance of The Adventure Gap: Changing the Face of the Outdoors in shaping the discourse around justice and equity in mountaineering since it was published in 2014, which is why James Edward Mills absolutely deserves to be celebrated with the H. Adams Carter Literary Award for this year.


The Pinnacle Award: Steph Davis

For Outstanding Mountaineering and Climbing Achievements

Steph Davis is a rock climber, BASE jumper, and wingsuit flier. She began climbing as a freshman at the University of Maryland in 1991. After receiving a master's in Literature, she moved out to Moab, living in her grandmother's Oldsmobile. Some of her notable ascents are the First Female Ascent of Freerider, the First Female Ascent of the Salathe Wall, free solo of the Pervertical Sanctuary on the Diamond of Longs Peak, and the first American woman to summit Fitzroy. Davis started skydiving and BASE jumping in 2008; human flight is her second passion. She is one of just a few people in the world, and the only woman, to combine free solo climbing with base jumping and wingsuit flight. She is the author of High Infatuation and Learning to Fly.


The David A. Sowles Memorial Award: Roger Schaeli, Matteo Della Bordella, Thomas Huber, and Roberto Treu

For Unselfish Devotion to Imperiled Climbers

The Cerro Torre Rescue

Patagonia is considered by the world’s best climbers to be one of the most difficult and dangerous climbing areas in the world. Climbers who attempt Cerro Torre, Fitz Roy, and other notable climbs understand an accident here requires self-rescue, as an organized rescue is unlikely or uncertain at best. Two teams established two new routes on Cerro Torre on January 27, 2022. The teams had climbed the last 1,000 feet with each other, summiting together. The Italian team, Matteo Della Bordella, David Bacci, and Matteo De Zaicomo, decided to bivy up on the summit of Cerro Torre and descend the next morning while the other team, climbing guides Tomás Aguiló, 36 (Argentina), and Korra Pesce, 41 (Italy) decided to descend in the dark to mitigate the danger of rock and icefall. 

As Aguiló and Pesce descended, on the morning of January 28, they were hit by an avalanche of ice and rock. Pesce was paralyzed, while Aguiló was seriously injured, but able to move. Aguilo continued to descend, eventually finding his satellite device and calling for help. 

Unaware of Aguiló's satellite device message for help, someone had seen a headlamp's SOS signal high on the mountain and got together a group of ten to hike the two hours to the glacier's base and investigate. Some of the group continued on to the base of the east face, where they saw Aguiló slowly descending to a triangular snowfield about 1,000 feet of technical climbing above the glacier. A drone was used to pinpoint Aguiló's location, and a rescue operation was formed. 

By 5 p.m. on Friday, Della Bordella's team had finished rappelling 30 pitches from their summit bivy and met up with the rescue party. Upon learning the news, Della Bordella, alongside Thomas Huber (Germany), Roger Schaeli (Switzerland), and Roberto Treu (Argentina), climbed the first seven pitches of the Maestri Route in three hours to reach Agulió. Around midnight, Treu and Huber descended with Aguiló, while Della Bordella and Schaeli waited for any sign of Pesce. A storm was approaching, and the two only had one rope between them. As the weather worsened and exhaustion set in, the two decided to descend for their own safety around 3 a.m. Unfortunately, Pesce perished. Rescuers carried Aguiló down to the bottom of the glacier, where he was helicoptered to a hospital.  

The American Alpine Club is honored to recognize Matteo Della Bordella, Roger Schaeli, Thomas Huber, and Roberto Treu with the David A. Sowles Memorial Award for their voluntary actions to rescue Tomy Aguiló and Korra Pesce on Cerro Torre. The David A. Sowles Memorial Award is the American Alpine Club’s highest award for valor, bestowed at irregular intervals on climbers who have "distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains.” The recipients’ voluntary actions to rescue Aguiló and Pesce at great personal risk is the embodiment of why this award was created. 

About the Rescuers

As soon as Roger Schaeli began walking, the mountains became his fate. For Roger, climbing is passion, a sentiment, a strong emotional confrontation with the mountain, life, and himself. Schaeli is an IFMGA(UIAGM/IVBV) Mountain guide and Swiss Alpinist. Schaeli has many notable ascents all over the world, including more than 56 ascents on the North Face of the Eiger, the first ascent of Odyssee (5.14 1,400m), and the linkup of the six most prominent North Faces of the Alps (Eiger, Matterhorn, Grandes Jorasses, Grosse Zinne, Piz Badile, and Dru) in a non-stop, unsupported trek over 45 days. 

Matteo Della Bordella began climbing at 12 years old, thanks to his dad. In 2006, he joined the group of Ragni di Lecco and had the opportunity to grow both as a mountaineer and a person. He likes to climb technically difficult big walls in the most remote places on earth. Bordella's proudest achievements as an alpinist are the first ascent of the route Brothers in Arms on Cerro Torre's east and north face, the first ascent of the west face of Bhagirathi IV (6192 m) in the Indian Himalaya, the "by fair means" expedition to Greenland which involved 200 km of kayaks and the first ascent of Shark Tooth north face, the first ascent of Torre Egger West face in Patagonia, summiting the Cerro Torre three times, and Cerro Fitz Roy four times. 

Thomas Huber is a German climber and mountaineer. Huber is known for his speed records and first ascents. Of his most notable climbs are the FA of the direct north pillar of the Shivling (6543m) with Iwan Wolf, which won them the Piolet d'Or, and the first ascent of El Niño and the first free ascent of Zodiac on El Capitan in Yosemite. 

Roberto Treu "Indio" is originally from the province of San Juan, where he found his passion for the mountains. He is an IFMGA Mountain Guide at Patagonia Ascent and the director of the technical committee of the AAGM (Asociación Argentina de Guías de Montaña). Some of his most important achievements have been the Cerro Standhardt, Herron, Egger traverse, and the Directa Huarpe, a new route on the West Face of Cerro Torre. In addition to these climbs, Treu has climbed Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy numerous times.


The President's Award: Steven Swenson 

For Extraordinary Accomplishments in the Climbing World

Steve Swenson grew up in Seattle and started climbing in the nearby Cascade Mountains at age14. He graduated from the University of Washington with a degree in Civil Engineering. He has been climbing for over a half-century with over twenty expeditions to South Asia, including ascents of K2 and Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was part of a team that won the 2012 Piolet d'Or award for the first ascent of Saser Kangri II (7518 meters), and a team that won the 2020 Piolet d'Or for the first ascent of Link Sar (7041m). He is married with two sons. He is retired after a 35-year consulting engineering career in project management, design, policy-making, finance, and communications consulting related to water and wastewater infrastructure projects. Since his retirement, he has served on several nonprofit boards and has expertise in governance, fundraising, and strategic planning. His book titled Karakoram: Climbing Through the Kashmir Conflict was published by Mountaineers Books in 2017. 


American Alpine Club award winners will be honored with bespoke, sustainable, custom-made awards by metal artist Lisa Issenberg. Lisa is the owner and founder of the Ridgway, Colorado studio, Kiitellä, named after a Finnish word meaning to "thank, applaud, or praise." Lisa has been providing custom awards for the American Alpine Club since 2013. Kiitellä's process includes a mix of both handcraft and industrial techniques. To learn more, visit kiitella.com


To hear more from these awardees, join us for the 2024 Annual Benefit Gala in Los Angeles, CA, on April 27, 2024.


Join us for our Annual Gathering + Benefit Gala and go through our selfie booth from DigiBooths! No matter the size and location of your event DigiBooths is your first stop for selfie booths. They're a DigiGroup Entertainment company that offers more than just photo booths. You can book DJs as well by visiting Pittsburgh Digital DJs.


GAME DAY: Hueco Rock Rodeo

It’s about to be game on for the 28th annual Hueco Rock Rodeo, and so we had our own Game Day panel to talk shop about strategies for the competition, the major players to look out for, and how the condies are shaping up. We had Nina Williams and Jon Glassberg on the pod to chat podium predictions, climbing rivalries, whose injured, and whose coming in with momentum, and whether Daniel Woods is really going to win the Hueco Rock Rodeo, AGAIN. Dive in to get all the beta on the top competitors, funny stories from past competitions, performance tips, competitive vibes, trash talk, and more.



Show Notes

More about the Hueco Rock Rodeo

More about Nina Williams

More about Jon Glassberg

Climbers of the Craggin' Classics: Bishop

Bishop Craggin’ Photos by Sierra Farquhar

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


Meet Bishop Featured Climber: Andrew Kang!

Scroll to read Andrew’s story…



2023 Craggin’ Classic Supported By

Climbers of the Craggin' Classic: Moab

a female climber trad climbs a desert crack

PC: Matthew Cunningham @clamsjog

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


 

Meet Moab Craggin’ Featured Climber: Katrina Le!

Scroll to read her story…


The 2023 Craggin’ Classic Series is Supported By

Climbers of the Craggin' Classics: Shelf Road

PC: Rob Murillo @murillo.fotographia

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


Meet Featured Climber Stephen Lyter!

Scroll to hear from Stephen about climbing education and safety…


2023 Craggin’ Classic Series Supported By

Climbers of the Craggin' Classics: Smith Rock

PC: Kenny Gamblin

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


Smith Featured Climber: Living Legend Alan Watts

Scroll to read Alan Watt’s take on the AAC’s advocacy event at Smith Rock…


2023 Craggin’ Classic Series Supported By

Climber's of the Craggin' Classic: Devil's Lake

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.


Chad and Cooper Donahue side hugging.

Chad and Cooper Donahue.

Featured Climbers: Chad and Cooper Donahue

Devil's Lake Photos by: Laurel Myers @laureljmyers

AAC: How did you get into rock climbing?

Chad Donahue: Growing up I had a couple friends who were into rock climbing and so went a handful of times throughout high school. But my son Cooper and I really started getting into it last year, with Adaptive Adventures. My family found Adaptive Adventures, and hooked me up with Kat and Jesse and some of the other incredible people running it. My first trip with them I did some wakeboarding and I’ve tried a bunch of stuff from there!

Climber sitting on an overlook.

There’s one rock climbing gym in Madison, and on every last Sunday of the month, Adaptive Adventures hosts an adaptive night for free. We’ve been going to these for a year. Any time I have Cooper, we end up going climbing if we can or doing something else active. They also have a couple times a year where they take climbers outside, and the clinic at the Devil’s Lake Craggin’ was one of them!

AAC: What does climbing mean to you?

Chad Donahue climbing indoors.

Chad Donahue climbing indoors.

CD: Rock climbing gives me an opportunity to share anticipation—like getting excited to go to the movies as a kid. It's sometimes not even about the rock climbing, it's just the whole process. There is no right or wrong way to do the moves either, so it's really cool how different people can do the same thing in different ways. Like Moe, who was also at the adaptive clinic, is in a wheelchair, and he was just campusing this overhung route that is so hard for me! And climbing is just such a cool way to share those moments of connection and love of the outdoors.

I had a traumatic brain injury in 2014, and if that hadn’t happened, I probably wouldn’t have gotten back into rock climbing. Because of the TBI, I have a visual impairment and I’m legally blind, but I can see kind of well for someone who is legally blind. It’s kind of like being permanently without your glasses, everything is really blurry. A lot of fine motor skills are hard, so tying the rope for climbing is really hard. Spacial awareness can be pretty challenging now too…

AAC: Who are you besides a climber?

Chad Donahue Rapelling outside

Chad Donahue rapelling.

CD: Well I’m a dad, a big music lover, our family has always been huge ice cream people, and I love being really active. I used to play a lot of sports—like basketball, tennis, lacrosse, and football.

Cooper is in 8th grade, I can’t believe he’s going to be in high school next year! He’s a really kind and thoughtful kid. He loves video games and anime, and he’s really incredible at art. And he likes climbing outdoors 5x more than indoor climbing. When we were wrapping up for the day on Sunday at the Craggin’ he didn’t want to come down.

We do a lot of active things together. Like we’re working towards a triathlon with Dare 2 Tri. Cooper likes biking but is definitely not a runner. When he was spacing out at the crag during a break from climbing, someone asked him what he was thinking about—and he said snowboarding haha. So we’re always getting up to something.

AAC: Tell us about the adaptive clinic at the Craggin’ event!

CD: We ended up climbing inside on Saturday due to weather, but it was still really fun! On Sunday, it was perfect weather out, and Cooper and I got to climb outside for the second time ever. The rock isn’t very grippy at Devil’s Lake, the handholds are weird. Climbing outside is in some ways so different than inside, it's kind of like starting over! But it was really fun to figure out a way up.

With every new volunteer that I climb with at Adaptive Adventures, I feel like I’m learning something new because they all have a different perspective. Like that day Jason was teaching me how to turn my hip in to extend my reach.

AAC: What’s climbing like for you?

Cooper Donahue helping Chad Donahue with his harness.

Cooper Donahue helping Chad Donahue with his harness.

CD: My vision is barely a problem indoors because the colors of the holds stand out to me, but outdoor climbing really levels the playing field. It’s a lot more challenging outside, especially to find the footholds. One technique I’ve been working on will help me spot footholds better, by dragging my foot up the wall as I move it, so I can feel the feet without seeing them.

AAC: What’s it like climbing with your son Cooper? Do you worry any extra about safety because you’re also worried about him?

CD: The nice part about working with Adaptive Adventures is that I know that Cooper is in good hands and we’re showing him the ropes in a safe way. I just appreciate the joy on his face, and how excited he is to go rock climbing. He’s always ready to jump in though. His first time out rock climbing he got to rappel!

AAC: Do you have any dreams or goals around climbing?

CD: I just want to continue to have fun…and maybe go on a rock climbing trip to Colorado sometime!

Adaptive Clinic participant, Moe Ewing shows off his powerful pulls.

Adaptive Clinic participant, Moe Ewing shows off his powerful pulls.

AAC: In your opinion, how can the climbing community better support adaptive climbers?

CD: Just treat ‘em like any other rock climber and offer help. They might not need it, but you never know unless you ask. With rock climbing becoming more popular, I think that it's really important for everyone to know that groups like Adaptive Adventures or Dare 2 Tri exist. Just because you have differences or challenges doesn’t mean shit. The mind and body is limitless! It’s all mindset—like in rock climbing when you think you can’t go anymore, but you pause and realize you can go a little further, and you push through and do more than you ever thought you could.

Adaptive Clinic participant, John Heim poses with his dog Scout.

Adaptive Clinic participant, John Heim poses with his dog Scout.

 

Meet Chad and Cooper Donahue: Devil’s Lake Craggin’ Climbers

Scroll to read their story…


2023 Craggin’ Classic Series Supported By

Climbers of the Craggin' Classics: NRG

PC: Tanner Henson

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.

Meet Leanne Christine Reilly!

A NRG Craggin’ Climber

Scroll to read her story…


2023 Craggin’ Classic Series Supported By

Climbers of the Craggin' Classics: Rumney

Photo Credit: Leah Gussoff

We’re interviewing a climber from each event in the Craggin’ Classic Series—Rumney, New River Gorge, Devil’s Lake, Smith Rock, Shelf Road, Moab, and Bishop—to take a deep look into the breadth of climbers that come to Craggins, and how they make the most of each unique event.

Read on to hear from climbers just like you, and their take on the things that matter to climbers.

 

Meet Caper Loomis!

A Rumney Craggin’ Climber

PC: Leah Gussoff

Scroll to read her story…


2023 Craggin’ Classic Series Supported By

Behind the Scenes of United in Yosemite

Dig into the details of the first ever United in Yosemite event, hosted by The American Alpine Club (through our Climb United program), Yosemite National Park, and the Yosemite Conservancy. This climbing festival was an intentional space created to celebrate the diverse voices of climbing—to make sure the big walls are the only intimidating thing about this legendary climbing location, not the culture or community. Dive into the photos and participant reflections about the event below.

For all current United in Yosemite information click here.

Behind the Scenes of United in Yosemite