Access Fund and American Alpine Club Announce First Round of Anchor Replacement Fund Grant Awards
October 14, 2015, Golden, CO —The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the first-ever grant round for the new Anchor Replacement Fund. During this round, we have awarded a total of $10,000 to seventeen anchor replacement projects across the country. The new grant program was launched earlier this year to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts. This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.
AAC Colorado Climbing Posse
We are pleased to award funding to the AAC Colorado Climbing Posse to support fixed anchor replacement in Clear Creek Canyon, one of the most popular Colorado Front Range climbing areas. The project will focus on High Wire, a popular crag that receives a lot of climber traffic. A team of experienced anchor replacement volunteers will lead the effort, and priority will be given to replacing top-anchors then selected protection bolts.
Boise Climber's Alliance
Boise Climber's Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to support their fixed anchor replacement project at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs in southern Idaho, outside of Boise. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is a grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.
Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to support long-term bolt replacement work in Colorado's Boulder Canyon, an area with more than 2,000 routes. BCC intends to replace bolts in the most sustainable fashion possible by removing and reusing holes, as well as installing hardware that is replaceable for the next generation.
Clifton Climber's Alliance
We are pleased to award funding to Clifton Climber's Alliance (CCA) to support their efforts to replace all non-stainless or inadequate hardware at Eagle Bluff in central Maine. Their work will update more than 70 fixed anchors with ½" stainless steel bolts. Last year CCA and Access Fund worked together to acquire and permanently protect Eagle Bluff.
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain's most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.
Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont
We are pleased to award funding to Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont (CRAG-VT) to support ongoing anchor replacement work at Bolton Valley crags. Volunteers will focus on re-using old bolt holes whenever possible and will replace outdated or inappropriate hardware with sustainable, long-lasting glue-in bolts. CRAG-VT is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of Vermont's climbing resources.
East Idaho Climber's Coalition
East Idaho Climber's Coalition (EICC) was awarded funding to support ongoing fixed anchor replacement work at Massacre Rocks. Their project will tackle replacement of aging, outdated hardware on 50 of the area's most popular routes at crags like Le Petite Covette, All American Area, and Red Light District.
East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition (ETCC) to support their ongoing anchor replacement work in the Obed Wild and Scenic River area of Tennessee. ETCC has already replaced 300 of an estimated 4,000 fixed anchors in the Obed. The grassroots organization maintains a longstanding partnership with Obed's National Park Service managers, performing a wide variety of stewardship work through their annual Adopt a Crag event.
Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California's Pinnacles National Park. Founded in 1989, FoP has maintained a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles by hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.
Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition (NCCC) to support replacement of high-use top-rope anchors at Cat's Eye and Bolt Wall at Horsetooth Reservoir in Colorado. Funding will also support NCCC's ongoing replacement work at other Ft. Collins-area crags. NCCC is a leading grassroots local climbing organization, protecting and stewarding the many climbing resources of Colorado's northern Front Range.
North Idaho Climbers Alliance
North Idaho Climbers Alliance (NICA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement at Laclede, a popular crag especially suited to beginning climbers. Work will focus specifically on the Red Wall, Upper Main Wall, Lower Main Wall, and West End Cliff. NICA is a grassroots local climbing organization focusing on climbing stewardship in Idaho's panhandle.
Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
We are pleased to award funding to the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) to support their ongoing work to replace rusty, aging fixed anchors throughout the Red River Gorge. RRG FGI is a grassroots organization that partners with the climbing industry, local community, and route equippers to ensure fixed anchors in Red River Gorge are of the highest standard.
Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Climbers Association (RCA) was awarded funding to support replacement of worn top-anchors on Rumney's extremely popular routes. RCA will utilize stainless steel pig-tail systems as a more sustainable solution for high-use top-anchors that are wearing far too quickly. Rumney is owned and managed by White Mountain National Forest, and RCA maintains a strong and successful partnership with them.
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The project builds off of SLCA's recent success in American Fork, where they upgraded anchors on 28 popular routes. The work in Big Cottonwood will be coordinated by SLCA's new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, which is also working on a Wasatch Best Practices Handbook to address important considerations for anchor replacement and route development in their area.
Southern Utah Climber's Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber's Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA's work will cover crags such as Black and Tan, Kelly's Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the BLM. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.
Telluride Mountain Club
Telluride Mountain Club (TMC) in Colorado was awarded funding to support anchor replacement projects at Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon, some of Telluride's most historic climbing areas. Replacement work will be coordinated through TMC's Anchor Replacement Committee. TMC works to preserve and enhance public access to human-powered recreation including hiking, backcountry skiing and boarding, mountaineering, climbing, and other mountain-related recreation.
Washington State Anchor Replacement Project
We are pleased to award funding to Washington State Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) to support ongoing anchor replacement work across Washington State. WARP presently focuses their efforts in the Seattle metro region at areas like Little Si, Exit 38, and Index, as well as in the Cascades at areas such as Leavenworth, Washington Pass, and Stuart Range.
The American Alpine Club and the Access Fund Launch Anchor Replacement Fund
August 17, 2015, Golden, CO— The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club are proud to announce a joint grant program available to local climbing organizations and anchor replacement groups seeking funding for fixed anchor replacement at climbing areas across the United States. By partnering on this program, the nation's two national non-profit climbing organizations are filling a need unmet by their existing climbing conservation grants—replacing fixed anchors at local crags. This grant program is made possible by corporate support from ClimbTech, Petzl, and Trango.
"Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80's and 90's are aging, and there are growing concerns of anchor failure, incidents, and access issues," says Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson. “While bolting standards continue to evolve, there is an immediate need to address aging and inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts."
American Alpine Club Executive Director Phil Powers adds: “As the American climbing community grows, it's critical that we partner to keep climbers safe. We owe it to future generations of climbers to maintain and steward all of our resources, including fixed anchors."
Earlier this year, the Access Fund and American Alpine Club released a joint policy on fixed anchors, which gives land managers, agency officials, and partner organizations in the climbing community a clear and consistent policy regarding the placement, maintenance, and management of fixed anchors for technical climbing. This new grant program is based on those same collaborative principles, and the Access Fund and American Alpine club encourage applicants to employ best practices for anchor replacement and demonstrate support from their local climbing community.
Fixed anchors are necessary tools for climbing and some level of fixed anchor use and replacement shall be allowed wherever climbing is allowed, and the appropriate level of use should be established on an area-by-area basis.
The Anchor Replacement Fund will further support the great work that organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association and numerous local climbing organizations have accomplished over the years. They have made significant investments and progress in anchor replacement, and we are excited to join this effort and hope that the Anchor Replacement Fund can help extend the reach of these initiatives.
The inaugural Anchor Replacement Fund application round is now open, and applications are due by September 15. A joint committee made up of experts from both organizations and the anchor replacement community will manage the review process. Grant guidelines and forms can be found on both organizations' websites and questions and applications can be directed to [email protected].
About the Access Fund
The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents millions of climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Six core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing policy and advocacy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, risk management and landowner support, and education. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org.
2015 Cornerstone Conservation Grants Recipents Announced
$25,000 awarded to benefit healthy climbing landscapes
October 7, 2015, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2015 Cornerstone Conservation Grants powered by REI. To fulfill our vision of healthy climbing landscapes we award $25,000 annually to organizations, landowners, and individuals to help fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. Thanks and congratulations to the following organizations for the good work they do:
· The Carolina Climbers Coalition $3,000 has formed a partnership with the YMCA and have gained access to the Sauratown cliffs, one of the most popular winter climbing destinations in the region but has been closed to climbing for many years.
Grant money will be used to build and maintain a climbers trail that can be used by the community and support the collaboration with the land owner.
· Climbing Association of Southern Arizona, $2,000 - Among the oldest developed climbing areas on Mt. Lemmon, Windy Point boasts the mountain's densest concentration of routes. Over the years, its popularity and accessibility have led to severely eroded access routes and extensive litter and vandalism.
They plan to mobilize their volunteer network and partner with the Forest Service and an erosion-control consultant to stabilize access routes and close spur trails, remove approximately 400 square feet of graffiti, and erect signs about Leave No Trace principles.
· Donner Land Trust $3,500.00 Donner Summit is a world-class climbing area because of the quality of granite, the quality of routes, ease of access, and ability to be stewarded as a climbing resource in perpetuity. The terrain is some of the most dramatic terrain in the Truckee Tahoe region. The acquisition will secure access to five different climbing areas with five star routes for generations to come.
Grant funds will provide for a kiosk, signage, trail permitting, and tools.
· Duluth Climbers Coalition $3,000.00 Casket Quarry is an important regional ice/mixed climbing venue and the centerpiece of a planned new Duluth city park: Quarry Park. Key to the first phase of development is improving the primary access trail. The current trail is a rough footpath, uneven and subject to seasonal flooding and erosion.
Improving this principal access route will facilitate climbing, preserve the environment, and help to fulfill the City's goal for developing Quarry Park into a universally accessible site for climbers and other user groups.
· Madrone Wall Preservation Committee $5,000.00 Owned by Clackamas County the 44 acre “Madrone Wall Park" has, for decades prior to its closing, been a mecca for rock climbing on its 1000 foot long cliff. The site now requires access road and parking upgrades, and the Cornerstone Grant will help fund a portion of a human waste solution
· Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance $5,000.00 – Shelf Road is a limestone crag in the Front Range that has seen a huge increase in the amount of climber traffic in recent years. Easily overcoming the ability of existing facilities to keep impact contained, they are in the process of an expansion, and they will use their grant money to fund a human waste solution.
Working with the BLM the toilet would significantly improve the climber experience at the area, and prevent human waste from being left behind at the crags in the sensitive high desert environment, and also allow allocated BLM money to have a broader impact in the expansion project.
· Southeast Climbers Coalition $1,500.00 will use their grant money to rehabilitate climbing areas vandalized with graffiti and install educational signage in the area. The removal project will span the entire southeast region with major projects taking place at Kings Bluff in Tennessee, Hospital Bouldersand Cherokee Rock Village in Alabama.
· Levitation 49 (Alaska) $2,000.00 – Valdez, Alaska has seen huge resurgence in climbing in Keystone Canyon due to a new climbing wall in town and two increasingly successful festivals in the winter and spring. With easy access from the road and its location in Alaska, Levitation 49 is working hard to make this crag a destination climbing area. Grant money will be used to construct human waste solutions at the trailhead and parking area.
American Alpine Club Official Member of Outdoor Alliance
May 19, 2015, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) has joined as an official member of Outdoor Alliance, a coalition that unites the voices of the American outdoor recreation community. As a member organization of the coalition, the AAC will strengthen its voice in the national conversation about human-powered recreation on public lands, helping to secure climbing access for its members.
Outdoor Alliance is a coalition of seven national and regional outdoor recreation organizations that brings the outdoor recreation user voice to public land policy to protect, promote, and enhance the human-powered experience on our public lands.
“The American Alpine Club is a legendary mountaineering organization, with impressive roots in the conservation movement and a large and active membership," said Outdoor Alliance's Executive Director, Adam Cramer. "Their highly-engaged membership will complement our work protecting climbing and other human-powered recreation across the country." Outdoor Alliance coalition work has helped protect places like Browns Canyon in Colorado, increased protection for Colorado Roadless Areas, and improved access to outdoor recreation across public lands.
"In joining the coalition the AAC adds its voice to the much-needed effort to protect our public lands and ensure they are managed responsibly for recreation," said AAC CEO Phil Powers. "Just as importantly, our new partnership with the Outdoor Alliance gives our public policy staff a team to work with as we advocate for climbing in the United States." In uniting the voices of outdoor organizations of varying disciplines from across the country, OA stands as a testament to the AAC's belief that together we're stronger. This new partnership moves the AAC and its members another step toward the vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.
About Outdoor Alliance:
Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of organizations that include American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, and the Mountaineers. We are backcountry skiers, hikers, paddlers, mountain bikers, boaters, and climbers who share a commitment to protecting public lands. In uniting our voices, we are building and nurturing a conservation constituency for the 21st century.