AAC Retains Search Firm to Help Find Next CEO

Photo: Garrett Grove

On behalf of the American Alpine Club's Board of Directors, we want to update you on the search for the organization’s next CEO and the steps being taken to hire the best candidate to lead the Club forward.

We are pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

 Thanks to our search committee made up of board members Deanne Buck, Steve Swenson, Mark Butler, Peter Metcalf, David Landman, Kevin Duncan, Len Necefer, Graham Zimmerman and Jen Bruursema. Their time and dedication to the Club is reflected in the work so far and will undoubtedly secure a tremendous CEO.

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January 27, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding leaders for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

After AAC CEO Phil Powers announced in the fall of 2019 that he would be stepping down in Summer 2020, the AAC Board of Directors created a CEO Search Committee dedicated to finding the Club’s next leader. Search Committee members Jen Bruursema, Deanne Buck, Mark Butler, Kevin Duncan, David Landman, Peter Metcalf, Len Necefer, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman selected Koya Partners after a competitive process that drew proposals from leading national firms.

“Given the growth and broad reach of all forms of climbing and love for the mountains, we feel it is important for the Search Committee to consider a pool of candidates that reflects the community,” Committee Chair Deanne Buck said. “Koya’s commitment to helping their clients achieve their missions by providing customized, strategic, and innovative services and support for acquiring and retaining exceptional talent, aligns squarely with AAC’s focus in hiring our next CEO.”

The role of the search firm is to engage a multitude of stakeholders to create a Candidate Profile, identify and attract qualified candidates, and work with the Search Committee to interview and select the right hire to lead their client organizations into the future.

To date, the AAC CEO Search Committee, in partnership with Koya, has prioritized early effective methods for broad and inclusive consultation and stakeholder engagement with the climbing community. This input will inform the Candidate Profile that the AAC Board hopes to announce early February, with the completion of the search and announcement of next AAC CEO in summer 2020.

Phil Powers to Step Down from Position as AAC CEO

Powers climbs in Red Rocks. Photo: Irene Yee.

A LETTER FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

Dear AAC members, climbers and friends;

This month, I informed our Board of Directors that I will be moving on from my role as the American Alpine Club’s CEO. These years have been some of the most rewarding of my life, and coming to this conclusion was not easy. After fourteen years at the helm of this wonderful organization, this feels like the right time. The Club is in a strong position, ready for a smooth transition, and poised to fuel the next phase of American climbing. My transition will take place over the course of the next year. I have spent a lot of time thinking about the next steps—not only what I’ll do next, but what’s best for the AAC.

Climbing continues to be the driving force in my life. Sharing this lifestyle—the contact with the natural world it provides, the attention to health it demands, and the partnerships it cultivates—with others has been my central effort during my time at the AAC.

Powers at an AAC Climbers' Gathering prior to an Annual Dinner.

Powers advocating for public lands with staff and volunteers at Outdoor Retailer.

The Club has made huge strides in the last decade and a half, and I’m incredibly proud of our accomplishments. Together, we grew our portfolio of lodging facilities from one to five, reached a membership of 25,000, and vastly increased our reach in areas like public policy and education. These milestones were only possible because of thousands of people’s work. I have had the privilege to lead an organization of members, donors, volunteers and staff who share time, resources, goals, and ropes together. Today’s AAC is anchored by a united community of climbers who yearn to offer their knowledge and stand by their values—values like supporting public lands, access to wild and vertical places, and sharing our care for one another through mentorship, education and rescue benefits.

I will leave this role feeling more anticipation than satisfaction. In many respects, we have only begun to see the ways in which climbing benefits individual lives and, more broadly, is a force for good. I think of these years as foundational to an even greater future, and I look forward to watching that unfold—and contributing where I can.

Powers with climber Mason Earle at AAC's Annual Dinner (photo: Jim Aikman).

Powers on the dance floor at AAC's Excellence in Climbing event (photo: Alton Richardson).

My experience here has been a special one. I’ve been able to spend time, often at the crag or in the mountains, with some of the early greats in American climbing. I’ve been able to get to know (and even climb with on their “rest days”) contemporary climbers who continue to advance our craft. Many of them have gone on to become extraordinary ambassadors for the landscapes and ecosystems we depend on.

The AAC board has begun its search for my replacement, but this is not my goodbye. I am committed to supporting that effort in every way that makes sense over the coming year. As I move on from the AAC, I look forward to spending more time with my family and with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, which I have owned with my partners for the last twenty years. I will also be spending more time with the wild places we have worked so hard to protect.

And, of course, I’ll still be climbing, so look for me at your crag. There are many I still want to visit.

With gratitude,

Phil Powers

Powers and the many attendees of the 2019 Climb the Hill event in D.C. (photo: Stephen Gosling).

Powers on the Muldrow Glacier in 1996.

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American Alpine Club Heads to DC for Fourth Annual Climb the Hill

The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for our fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. We’ll be bringing professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.

This year AAC and Access Fund will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action.

Here’s how you can get involved:

Join us for the Senate Reception in DC.

Follow along while we’re on the Hill.

Show your support for our climate work with this Facebook frame.

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September 10, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for their fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. The two leading climbing advocacy non-profits will bring professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.

The Climb the Hill team, which includes renowned climbers Alex Honnold, Sasha DiGiulian, and Tommy Caldwell will meet with law and policymakers to advocate for increased access to public lands, environmental protections, and balanced energy policies on public lands.

According to Access Fund, nearly 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federally managed public land. The protection of these lands and the environment surrounding them is critical to the future of climbing and the safety of climbers. Access Fund and the AAC will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action. 

The Climb the Hill team will include representatives from prominent outdoor industry brands, such as Patagonia, Adidas, The North Face, CLIF, Brooklyn Boulders and REI. An array of non-profit and community partners will also join the team, including American Mountain Guides Association, Outdoor Alliance, Latino Outdoors, Brothers of Climbing, Brown Girls Climb, Sending in Color, Adaptive Climbing Group, Salt Lake Climbers’ Alliance, Red River Gorge Climbers, The Mountaineers, Protect Our Winters, and Outdoor Industry Association.

“Climbing is exploding in popularity, and this trend will continue into the future with the Olympics on the horizon. Our growing community is increasingly diverse and passionate about recreational access, protecting public lands, and supporting our land management agencies. With Climb the Hill, we’re bringing that message to policymakers in Washington, DC who hold in their hands the future of our public lands,” said Chris Winter, Executive Director of Access Fund.  

“Climb the Hill is among our most effective ways to address the issues facing climbers on our nation's public lands. I am extremely pleased that over the years, the teams that make it great have become ever more diverse, dedicated and well-versed in the policy agenda we bring to our nation's decision-makers,” stated Phil Powers, CEO of AAC.

Learn more about this joint project at: ClimbTheHill.org

Inaugural State of Climbing Report Released

The AAC, in partnership with more than a dozen supporting organizations, is proud to release the first-ever State of Climbing Report, a comprehensive quantitative look at the American climbing community and its impact. View the inaugural report.

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July 9, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club, in partnership with more than a dozen supporting organizations, is proud to release the first-ever State of Climbing Report, a comprehensive quantitative look at the American climbing community and its impact. The report details the growth, size, and demographics of the current community, and attempts to apply a yardstick to the community’s conservation efforts, economic impact, climbing-related accidents, and political advocacy.

The rising influence of the sport of climbing in the United States is undeniable; in 2018 nearly 4.4% of all Americans climbed indoors, a documentary about climbing won an Academy Award, and data shows a bright future with millions of millennials taking up the sport. Data also shows that climbing is relatively homogenous in demographic makeup—the majority of participants being white and male. 

American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers spoke to the effort to quantify climbing in America today: “We believe that collecting and distributing this information can lead to inspired action among industry leaders and beyond. If our strengths are exhibited, we can leverage them. If our weaknesses are revealed, let’s address them.” 

Economically, the 2019 State of Climbing Report demonstrates that the climbing community is a force. It’s estimated that the sport contributed an estimated $12,450,000,000 to the economy in 2017, with the vast majority (87%) coming from trip- and travel-related expenditures. Due to the often-remote nature of outdoor climbing, many communities that benefit from climbing-related travel are rural, and the sport has significant economic impact in places like Lee County, KY; Lander, WY; and Sandrock, AL.

The full State of Climbing report was made possible by the collaboration of multiple key partners, including the Access Fund, Climbing Wall Association, American Mountain Guides Association, USA Climbing, USA Ice Climbing, United States Ski Mountaineering Association, Outdoor Industry Association, The NPD Group, The Colorado Fourteeners Initiative, Joy Trip Project, Brown Girls Climb, Latino Outdoors, Colorado Mountain Club, and Paradox Sports. 

Download a free copy of the entire report at americanalpineclub.org/state-of-climbing-report

2019 State of Climbing Report — Quick Facts

• In 2014, it was estimated that there were 7.7 million participants in climbing, up 6% over the previous year.

• 65% of all climbers are between the ages of 18 - 35 years old.

• As of 2018, 4.4% of all Americans climb indoors.

• Indoor climbers, or those who climb in gyms, make up 52% of the climbing population.

• Climbing as a whole contributed $12,450,000,000 to the economy in 2017.

• More than 25,000 watched the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in Denver, CO in 2019, making it the largest live climbing competition in world history.

• 57% of climbing areas are located on federally managed lands.

• Climbers contributed more than 65,544 volunteer hours toward conservation and land stewardship efforts in 2018 through the Access Fund’s Adopt-a-Crag Program.

• More than 334,000 people climbed or hiked a Colorado “Fourteener” in 2017, up 6% year over year.

• 50% of all climbing-related accidents occurred from “falling or slipping” on either rock or ice.

• Across U.S. climbing gyms, there were just .007 reported incidents per 1000 visitor hours; when compared to a national average in CrossFit of 2.3 injuries per 1000 training hours, climbing gyms have an exceedingly low rate of injury.

• Beginning in 2019 ESPN will begin televised coverage of National Championship Climbing Competitions.

• Sport climbing is set to debut at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, Japan.

Climbers for Climate—AAC Takes Action!

WE HEARD YOU! Climbers care deeply about the issue of climate change and are concerned about its impact on our climbing landscapes, communities and outdoor recreation economy. It is time that we address this direct threat to the climbing community and engage in coordinated action to mitigate the impacts of climate change. Learn more about the AAC’s stance. Add your voice to the fight!

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June 4, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC), the country’s oldest and largest climbing advocacy organization, represents an outdoor community whose ethos is inextricably linked to healthy mountain environments and ecosystems. It is time that the Club addresses climate change as a direct threat to the climbing community and engages in coordinated action to mitigate its impacts. Failure to act with urgency threatens important alpine environments which support the health and vitality of our community. As such, the AAC is committing to taking action on climate change.

Around the world, mountain regions are warming at roughly twice the pace of the global average. The American Alpine Club, the advocacy voice of more than 24,000 climbers, is alarmed about the adverse impacts of climate change on climbing, climber safety, mountain environments. A recent AAC climber survey showed 94% of AAC members agree that climate change poses a great deal of risk to the places we climb, hike, and ski; the vast majority of survey participants also believe that human activity is the driving cause of climate change.

“It is clear the team at the American Alpine Club and me that the voice of the climbing community is critically important in today’s environmental and social efforts,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “I’m proud to be part of a committed group of people who are advocating for the health and sustainability of mountain environments, the ecosystems that house them, and the planet as a whole. We are addressing the challenges of climate change and we hope that you’ll join us; together, we’re stronger.”

The AAC is taking immediate steps to measure, minimize, and offset the organization’s own carbon emissions, as well as to divert staff resources and financial support toward political advocacy, scientific research through grants, and developing resources for members to make sustainable choices as they plan trips and expeditions.

Recognizing that climbers, skiers, and mountaineers are credible witnesses to change in the mountains, the American Alpine Club is also soliciting personal observations of how climate change is impacting the climbing landscape as part of a new Climate Story Collection. We encourage you to join the Club and contribute your story, which will be used to influence local and national policy and advocacy reform: http://bit.ly/2KqDmj7

Four Mountain Clubs Unite for Climbing Education and Public Policy

We're proud to be joining forces with the Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas, and The Mountaineers to promote improvements in climbing safety, coordinate stewardship and advocate for climbing areas in the United States. The four organizations have formally agreed to a working partnership to develop and implement shared standards for climbing and related mountain sports. The standards, lead by the AAC, would apply to volunteer instructors and remain consistent across the country. 

The partners represent four of the largest and longest-standing organizations dedicated to conserving mountain environments, providing quality outdoor education, and advocating for climbers throughout America. 

“We all care about introducing the next generation to the great outdoors and we have a responsibility to do it safely and effectively,” AAC CEO Phil Powers said. “This partnership, with four prominent U.S. mountain clubs, promotes the AAC’s vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. In the vertical world, combinations of seemingly insignificant errors add up quickly—competence matters.”

“We have the opportunity to extend the impacts of our organizations by working together,” The Mountaineers CEO Tom Vogl said.

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February 13, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, the Mazamas, and The Mountaineers are joining forces to promote improvements in climbing safety, coordinate stewardship and advocate for climbing areas in the United States.

The four organizations have formally agreed to a working partnership to develop and implement shared standards for climbing and related mountain sports. The standards would apply to volunteer instructors and remain consistent across the country.

The partners represent four of the largest and longest-standing organizations dedicated to conserving mountain environments, providing quality outdoor education, and advocating for climbers throughout America. As the United States’ representative to the UIAA, the American Alpine Club will be leading and facilitating the work, and will ensure that these new standards are internationally recognized by the global climbing community.

“We all care about introducing the next generation to the great outdoors and we have a responsibility to do it safely and effectively,” American Alpine Club CEO Phil Powers said. “This partnership, with four prominent U.S. mountain clubs, promotes the AAC’s vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. In the vertical world, combinations of seemingly insignificant errors add up quickly—competence matters.”

In the past decade the popularity of climbing in the U.S. has increased dramatically, creating a demand for quality climbing instruction. “These standards aim to ensure that the entire climbing community benefits from better training and will ultimately make climbing more accessible to everyone,” Mazamas Executive Director Lee Davis said.

“The Colorado Mountain Club is thrilled to be formally partnering with other influential mountain clubs to assist in the development and dissemination of new mountain skills training standards in America,” CMC Executive Director Scott Robson said. “By coordinating our efforts nationally, we raise the bar in regards to the quality of education that organizations like the CMC provide and we look forward to the positive impact these standards will have on our members and all of those who recreate in the mountains for years to come.”

“We have the opportunity to extend the impacts of our organizations by working together,” The Mountaineers CEO Tom Vogl said.

In the future, the partner organizations plan to examine ways to collaborate on issues of public policy, technology, membership, benefits and services, and other items of shared interest.

About The American Alpine Club:

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, Samuel F. Pryor Shawangunk Gateway Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

About the Colorado Mountain Club:

The Colorado Mountain Club is the state’s leading organization dedicated to adventure, recreation, conservation and education. Founded in 1912, the CMC acts as a gateway to the mountains for novices and experts alike, offering an array of year-round activities, events and schools centered on outdoor recreation. The Club comprises 13 regional groups across the state to serve the local needs of its members and partners. To ensure the continued enjoyment of Colorado’s pristine places, the CMC also leads efforts to protect wild and public lands with its conservation and stewardship programs. The Club publishes a quarterly magazine, Trail & Timberline, and operates a press with 50 current titles. No other organization in the Intermountain West employs such a strong or broad approach to connecting people with the Rocky Mountain landscape.

About the Mazamas:

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering, responsible recreation, and conservation through outdoor education, youth outreach, and advocacy programs. Founded on the summit of Mt. Hood, and headquartered in Portland, Oregon, the Mazamas has been working to represent and support everyone who loves to play in and protect the mountains of the Pacific Northwest for more than 120 years. The Mazamas operate one of the largest centralized mountaineering training schools in the country, graduating more than 500 people per year with basic to intermediate level climbing skills. The Mazamas also have a robust grants program that distributes more than $50,000 per year through conservation, research, and expedition grants. Members enjoy priority access to programs, domestic rescue insurance, and the opportunity to apply to our larger grants, including the $10,000 annual Bob Wilson Expedition Grant. Additional programs include classes in outdoor leadership, expedition planning, nordic skiing, ski mountaineering, wilderness first aid, and a variety of outdoor skill building courses. You can learn more about the Mazamas and start your adventure here: mazamas.org

About the Mountaineers:

The Mountaineers is an organization dedicated to helping people explore, conserve, learn about and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Founded in 1906, the 12,000-member Mountaineers community offers thousands of volunteer-led courses, activities, and events to connect young and old, novice and veteran, to the power and wonder of the natural world. The Mountaineers’ advocacy program is Washington’s leading voice for protecting the wild places where we play. Mountaineers Books expands passion for the outdoors internationally through award-winning publications, including instructional guides, adventure narratives, and conservation photography. Learn more at www.mountaineers.org.

2015 Anchor Replacement Fund Recipients Announced

Access Fund and American Alpine Club Announce First Round of Anchor Replacement Fund Grant Awards

October 14, 2015, Golden, CO —The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the first-ever grant round for the new Anchor Replacement Fund. During this round, we have awarded a total of $10,000 to seventeen anchor replacement projects across the country. The new grant program was launched earlier this year to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts. This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.

AAC Colorado Climbing Posse
We are pleased to award funding to the AAC Colorado Climbing Posse to support fixed anchor replacement in Clear Creek Canyon, one of the most popular Colorado Front Range climbing areas. The project will focus on High Wire, a popular crag that receives a lot of climber traffic. A team of experienced anchor replacement volunteers will lead the effort, and priority will be given to replacing top-anchors then selected protection bolts.

Boise Climber's Alliance
Boise Climber's Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to support their fixed anchor replacement project at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs in southern Idaho, outside of Boise. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is a grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.

Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to support long-term bolt replacement work in Colorado's Boulder Canyon, an area with more than 2,000 routes. BCC intends to replace bolts in the most sustainable fashion possible by removing and reusing holes, as well as installing hardware that is replaceable for the next generation.

Clifton Climber's Alliance
We are pleased to award funding to Clifton Climber's Alliance (CCA) to support their efforts to replace all non-stainless or inadequate hardware at Eagle Bluff in central Maine. Their work will update more than 70 fixed anchors with ½" stainless steel bolts. Last year CCA and Access Fund worked together to acquire and permanently protect Eagle Bluff.

Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain's most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.

Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont
We are pleased to award funding to Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont (CRAG-VT) to support ongoing anchor replacement work at Bolton Valley crags. Volunteers will focus on re-using old bolt holes whenever possible and will replace outdated or inappropriate hardware with sustainable, long-lasting glue-in bolts. CRAG-VT is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of Vermont's climbing resources.

East Idaho Climber's Coalition
East Idaho Climber's Coalition (EICC) was awarded funding to support ongoing fixed anchor replacement work at Massacre Rocks. Their project will tackle replacement of aging, outdated hardware on 50 of the area's most popular routes at crags like Le Petite Covette, All American Area, and Red Light District.

East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition (ETCC) to support their ongoing anchor replacement work in the Obed Wild and Scenic River area of Tennessee. ETCC has already replaced 300 of an estimated 4,000 fixed anchors in the Obed. The grassroots organization maintains a longstanding partnership with Obed's National Park Service managers, performing a wide variety of stewardship work through their annual Adopt a Crag event.

Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California's Pinnacles National Park. Founded in 1989, FoP has maintained a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles by hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.

Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition (NCCC) to support replacement of high-use top-rope anchors at Cat's Eye and Bolt Wall at Horsetooth Reservoir in Colorado. Funding will also support NCCC's ongoing replacement work at other Ft. Collins-area crags. NCCC is a leading grassroots local climbing organization, protecting and stewarding the many climbing resources of Colorado's northern Front Range.

North Idaho Climbers Alliance
North Idaho Climbers Alliance (NICA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement at Laclede, a popular crag especially suited to beginning climbers. Work will focus specifically on the Red Wall, Upper Main Wall, Lower Main Wall, and West End Cliff. NICA is a grassroots local climbing organization focusing on climbing stewardship in Idaho's panhandle.

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
We are pleased to award funding to the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) to support their ongoing work to replace rusty, aging fixed anchors throughout the Red River Gorge. RRG FGI is a grassroots organization that partners with the climbing industry, local community, and route equippers to ensure fixed anchors in Red River Gorge are of the highest standard.

Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Climbers Association (RCA) was awarded funding to support replacement of worn top-anchors on Rumney's extremely popular routes. RCA will utilize stainless steel pig-tail systems as a more sustainable solution for high-use top-anchors that are wearing far too quickly. Rumney is owned and managed by White Mountain National Forest, and RCA maintains a strong and successful partnership with them.

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The project builds off of SLCA's recent success in American Fork, where they upgraded anchors on 28 popular routes. The work in Big Cottonwood will be coordinated by SLCA's new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, which is also working on a Wasatch Best Practices Handbook to address important considerations for anchor replacement and route development in their area.

Southern Utah Climber's Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber's Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA's work will cover crags such as Black and Tan, Kelly's Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the BLM. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.

Telluride Mountain Club
Telluride Mountain Club (TMC) in Colorado was awarded funding to support anchor replacement projects at Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon, some of Telluride's most historic climbing areas. Replacement work will be coordinated through TMC's Anchor Replacement Committee. TMC works to preserve and enhance public access to human-powered recreation including hiking, backcountry skiing and boarding, mountaineering, climbing, and other mountain-related recreation.

Washington State Anchor Replacement Project
We are pleased to award funding to Washington State Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) to support ongoing anchor replacement work across Washington State. WARP presently focuses their efforts in the Seattle metro region at areas like Little Si, Exit 38, and Index, as well as in the Cascades at areas such as Leavenworth, Washington Pass, and Stuart Range.

The American Alpine Club and the Access Fund Launch Anchor Replacement Fund

August 17, 2015, Golden, CO— The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club are proud to announce a joint grant program available to local climbing organizations and anchor replacement groups seeking funding for fixed anchor replacement at climbing areas across the United States. By partnering on this program, the nation's two national non-profit climbing organizations are filling a need unmet by their existing climbing conservation grants—replacing fixed anchors at local crags. This grant program is made possible by corporate support from ClimbTech, Petzl, and Trango.

"Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80's and 90's are aging, and there are growing concerns of anchor failure, incidents, and access issues," says Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson. “While bolting standards continue to evolve, there is an immediate need to address aging and inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts."

American Alpine Club Executive Director Phil Powers adds: “As the American climbing community grows, it's critical that we partner to keep climbers safe. We owe it to future generations of climbers to maintain and steward all of our resources, including fixed anchors."

Earlier this year, the Access Fund and American Alpine Club released a joint policy on fixed anchors, which gives land managers, agency officials, and partner organizations in the climbing community a clear and consistent policy regarding the placement, maintenance, and management of fixed anchors for technical climbing. This new grant program is based on those same collaborative principles, and the Access Fund and American Alpine club encourage applicants to employ best practices for anchor replacement and demonstrate support from their local climbing community.

Fixed anchors are necessary tools for climbing and some level of fixed anchor use and replacement shall be allowed wherever climbing is allowed, and the appropriate level of use should be established on an area-by-area basis.

The Anchor Replacement Fund will further support the great work that organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association and numerous local climbing organizations have accomplished over the years. They have made significant investments and progress in anchor replacement, and we are excited to join this effort and hope that the Anchor Replacement Fund can help extend the reach of these initiatives.

The inaugural Anchor Replacement Fund application round is now open, and applications are due by September 15. A joint committee made up of experts from both organizations and the anchor replacement community will manage the review process. Grant guidelines and forms can be found on both organizations' websites and questions and applications can be directed to [email protected].

About the Access Fund

The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents millions of climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Six core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing policy and advocacy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, risk management and landowner support, and education. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org.

American Alpine Club Official Member of Outdoor Alliance

May 19, 2015, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) has joined as an official member of Outdoor Alliance, a coalition that unites the voices of the American outdoor recreation community. As a member organization of the coalition, the AAC will strengthen its voice in the national conversation about human-powered recreation on public lands, helping to secure climbing access for its members.

Outdoor Alliance is a coalition of seven national and regional outdoor recreation organizations that brings the outdoor recreation user voice to public land policy to protect, promote, and enhance the human-powered experience on our public lands.

“The American Alpine Club is a legendary mountaineering organization, with impressive roots in the conservation movement and a large and active membership," said Outdoor Alliance's Executive Director, Adam Cramer. "Their highly-engaged membership will complement our work protecting climbing and other human-powered recreation across the country." Outdoor Alliance coalition work has helped protect places like Browns Canyon in Colorado, increased protection for Colorado Roadless Areas, and improved access to outdoor recreation across public lands.

"In joining the coalition the AAC adds its voice to the much-needed effort to protect our public lands and ensure they are managed responsibly for recreation," said AAC CEO Phil Powers. "Just as importantly, our new partnership with the Outdoor Alliance gives our public policy staff a team to work with as we advocate for climbing in the United States." In uniting the voices of outdoor organizations of varying disciplines from across the country, OA stands as a testament to the AAC's belief that together we're stronger. This new partnership moves the AAC and its members another step toward the vision of a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes.


About Outdoor Alliance:

Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of organizations that include American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, and the Mountaineers. We are backcountry skiers, hikers, paddlers, mountain bikers, boaters, and climbers who share a commitment to protecting public lands. In uniting our voices, we are building and nurturing a conservation constituency for the 21st century.