Summer has officially arrived and climbers are turning their attentions to northerly latitudes, higher elevations, and lofty peaks. This month we feature two accidents that took place last summer on Teewinot (12,330 feet) in Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming. While these accidents differ in immediate cause and final outcome, they share a common origin: the use of hiking-specific applications for selection, preparation, and route-finding, versus the use of climbing-specific resources.

Stranded | Inexperience With Snow Climbing

Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot Mountain

On July 14 at 3:45 p.m., National Park Service personnel received a cell phone call from two young climbers stuck on Teewinot (12,330 feet). The male climbers, aged 19 and 20 years, reported that they were on a snowfield north of the Idol and Worshiper rock formations. They were carrying ice axes but did not know how to use them. They also reported that the snow was soft and they were unable to descend any further. The incident commander coached them on proper descent practices. The climbers then reported over the phone that, despite this assistance, they still needed a rescue.

Two NPS climbing rangers were deployed, and rescuers got to the stranded climbers at 6 p.m. The distressed climbers were lowered on rope systems until they reached the bottom of the snowfield and a dry trail at 7:30 p.m. After resting and rewarming for 45 minutes, the climbers requested that they be allowed to descend at their own slower pace to the parking lot.

ANALYSIS

There have been multiple similar instances of climbers in the Tetons being unprepared for their objectives, both during 2023 and in previous years. The summer climbing season in the range often starts with snow-covered peaks and ends with almost exclusively rock climbing terrain. During transition periods, climbers need to be prepared for the current conditions and not the ideal conditions.

In recent seasons, rangers have noticed an increase in technical climbing routes being listed on hiking-specific applications and websites. Many 4th- and 5th-class rock climbs with high risk and fall potential are listed incorrectly as hikes. Climbers are reminded to gather their route information from fellow climbers and climbing-specific resources.

(Source: Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report.)  

Fatal Fall | Climbing Unroped

Grand Teton National Park, Teewinot Mountain

On August 10, a team of nine climbers were attempting to climb Teewinot via the East Face (low 5th class). Upon nearing the summit, a 47-year-old female climber in the group fell about 150 feet to her death. The team decided to send one climber down to get help, while the rest stayed in place and called for help via cell phone. NPS personnel were contacted at 7:30 p.m.

After a helicopter reconnaissance, given the late hour and waning daylight, the decision was made to send a ground team to assist the stranded climbers. Four climbing rangers were deployed at 10:30 p.m., and they arrived on scene at 2:15 a.m. and spent the rest of the night with the climbers. During the morning of August 11, three helicopter shuttles brought the rescuers and climbers back to the valley. A short-haul operation then retrieved the deceased climber.  

ANALYSIS

Several factors contributed to this unfortunate accident.

1. Late Start. The team started their ascent in the afternoon, well after most climbers would recommend. An NPS volunteer who was descending the peak at 2 p.m. informed the team on the lateness of their ascent and that other climbers were already descending from the summit. The volunteer also pointed out the lack of necessary equipment to safely continue. Despite this, the team continued up.

2. Large Team. Having nine climbers in the group likely contributed to this accident. Larger teams almost always move slower than smaller teams, as rest breaks and decision-making can be prolonged.

3. Use of Hiking Apps. This team relied on information taken from a popular hiking application (as previously discussed in this Prescription). This climb in particular is listed on several platforms as a hike. Interviews with survivors revealed they were under the impression that the East Face of Teewinot was a traditional hike. It is a fifth-class climb.

   (Source: Grand Teton National Park Search and Rescue Report.) 

EDITOR’S NOTE:

While preparing these reports for the soon-to-be-released 2024 Accidents in North American Climbing, I found several popular hiking apps featured the East Face of Teewinot. The most disturbing representation was on AllTrails.com. On the page for Teewinot, the climb was referred to as a “trail” not once, but three times (See Fig 1.). The strongest warning given was to “proceed cautiously” on a “highly challenging” route that “should only be attempted by experienced adventurers.” In contrast, the Teewinot trail reviews posted by members revealed a different reality. A few are listed below:

• Alissa Cooke wrote on September 23, 2022:
  **THIS IS NOT A REAL TRAIL AND REQUIRES CLASS FIVE MOUNTAINEERING*** 
  I did not hike this trail, but friends of mine attempted it two days ago and required search and rescue to come get them. They spent 24 hours on the mountain and at least 12 of which were in severe storms. As per the ranger who coordinated the search and rescue, there are no real “trails” to go up this peak (or the Grand Teton) even though it’s listed on AllTrails.

• Caroline Berlin wrote on September 6, 2022:
  We came across 4 separate parties that were way off trail, one of which created potentially deadly rockfall at the choke point of the mountain. They neglected to yell rock as they sent down 30-pound boulders onto parties coming up below them.

• Tadami S wrote on February 9, 2022:
  This trail is for experienced climbers. Be sure to bring your own helmet and rope. My friend slipped and fell on this mountain and died in September 2021. 

• Tim Reddy wrote on August 18, 2023:
  This is not a hike. This is a technical (~5.4) rock climb. Most parties should plan to rope up on the ascent and on the descent. If you do not know how to place protection, set anchors, belay, and rappel, then you should hire a professional guide who does. Many people have died or been seriously injured climbing unroped on this route. 

I went further and downloaded the AllTrails.com iPhone app. It appears that the description on the app has been updated. The webpage description remains the same. On the iPhone app, Teewinot was appropriately described as a route requiring “technical mountaineering skills and equipment…” This was accompanied by a statement that the route is “the most dangerous in the Teton range…” I don’t know when the content update was made, but I infer that it changed after the 2023 accidents and was probably introduced by the same description still seen on the AllTrails.com webpage (Fig 1.).

My email queries to AllTrails.com have remained unanswered. On the app, the updated route description reads like a ChatGPT-derived synthesis of crowd-sourced user comments. What it lacks in human nuance, it compensates with a tinny stridency. Unfortunately for the two parties above, the corrections come a bit too late. The take-away: Use these non-climbing specific apps with discretion and understand the experience level and tools that are required. Seek out route information/conditions from fellow climbers and climbing-specific resources.

An earnest, honest, and accurate comment regarding Teewinot was posted on Mountainproject by Max Morgan:

Fourth class and easy snow, my @$$. Classic old school Teton sandbaggery, resulting in close calls and several deaths. Statistically, this has been the most deadly climb in the Tetons. At least four people have died on it over the course of the last few years. I've climbed it at least a dozen times. When snow free… [it] entails difficult route-finding and several trails that vary widely in difficulty and exposure. The easiest route up I've ever encountered has at least a couple of 5th-class slab moves. I'd call it 5.5. Maybe there's an easier route, but if I haven't found it in12 tries, you probably won't either.

As always, thanks again to all our volunteers, regional correspondents, and editors who make our efforts a reality. In particular I’d like to thank ANAC Senior Editor Dave Weber. Besides reporting from far-flung national parks, Dave is a climbing ranger in the Grand Tetons and flight paramedic/hoist rescuer for Intermountain Life Flight. He provided extensive reporting and images for both this Prescription newsletter and the upcoming 2024 Accidents.

In addition, I give deep thanks to those who take the time to submit accident reports. I can’t say this enough. If you spend enough time climbing, you will experience or witness an accident. While accidents are inevitable, reporting one is your choice.

Finally, if you have an AAC Partner membership or above, you’ll soon receive a copy of Accidents and the 2024 American Alpine Journal. Be safe out there.

—Pete Takeda, Editor