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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

30x30

Updates from your Policy Team

Boulderers weaving their way through the Buttermilks. Land of the Northern Paiute, Eastern Mono/Monache, Newe peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish

5 minute read

What Went Down This Fall?

Amelia Howe, AAC Advocacy Manager

As we pack up our sport climbing gear and enter into the winter season, it is hard to believe that we are already one year into a new administration. It feels like just yesterday we were activating our community to vote, and outlining our vision for the newly elected Biden-Harris administration. Now, new priorities have been outlined by the White House, and steps have been taken to act on these priorities. All of these factors impact how we strategize our advocacy efforts, and how you and your fellow climbers can assist us in our work.

Rachel Goldman climbing the steep featured roofs of Hueco
Tanks. Lands of the Tampachoa (Mansos), Ndé Kónitsąąíí Gokíyaa (Lipan Apache), & Mescalero Apache peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish

The American Alpine Club’s (AAC) vision for the current administration was outlined in the last Summit Register. It covered everything from creating a nationwide 30x30 implementation plan, restoring the National Environmental Policy Act, and utilizing public lands management and protections as a tool for fighting the climate crisis and prioritizing equitable access to landscapes and greenspaces. While there is endless work to be done, and much to hold the administration accountable to, there are things worth celebrating as we hit the one-year mark.

Infrastructure

A monumental milestone worth celebrating is the successful passage of the Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act signed into law on November 15th. While this bill may not sound like anything relevant to climbers, it contains strong legislative support for fighting the climate crisis and supporting public lands.

The public lands system is full of aging infrastructure that has long been neglected. In order to ensure an increase in equitable access to these resources for generations to come, our lawmakers need to prioritize funding for the necessary stewardship and maintenance work. From parking lots to restrooms to individual trails, these critical resources deserve continued attention and support, and luckily, the Infrastructure package works to directly address that need.

The Impact of Infrastructure on Recreation, Climate Action, and Public Lands

While this bill touches on everything from job creation, traditional infrastructure priorities such as bridge and roadway repair, and social infrastructure needs like nationwide broadband access, it also included priorities specifically related to what we advocate for in the recreation space. What exactly did the passage of this bill get us from a recreation, public lands, and climate perspective?

This is what we’re most excited about.

  • $100 million for Restoring, Preparing, or Adapting Recreation Sites on Federal Lands

  • Investments in Natural Infrastructure

  • $250 million to fund the Forest Service’s Legacy Road and Trail Program

  • $47 billion in climate resilience measures

  • $65 billion in clean energy and power grid-related investments

  • $21 billion to clean up decommissioned, or orphaned, oil and gas wells on public and Tribal lands

  • $50 million for endangered-species recovery and conservation programs

  • $500 million to address forest fire planning, defense, and response

A Note on the Build Back Better Act

The Budget Reconciliation package, or the Build Back Better Act (BBB), was a crucial element to the current presidential administration’s efforts to fight climate change and build national climate resilience. However, negotiating this bill and our national spending priorities have been the major political crux of the year. While the BBB passed in the House on November 19th, recent developments in the Senate indicate that the BBB as it stands faces a significant roadblock, and will have to be reconsidered and renegotiated as a new bill. While this is discouraging for those who were excited to see climate and public lands priorities within the bill, this setback won’t stop us. There is still great reason to get involved, and advocate for the policies that matter most to climbers. One thing is clear, the fight for public lands and climate action is not over.

Though the BBB will no longer exist by the same name moving forward, we need to fight to continue to have our priorities heard as these topics are renegotiated. Here is what we find most imperative and hope resurfaces in a future package:

Key Elements of the BBB for Climbers That We Should Carry Forward

Sara Roudebush and Michelle “Meesh” Van Riper get ready to start the day with a comically appropriate amount of pads for a day of climbing
at the Buttermilks. Lands of the Northern Paiute, Eastern Mono/Monache, Newe peoples. AAC member Dawn Kish

  • Funding for the creation and implementation of the Civilian Climate Corps

  • Investments in the effectiveness of the National Environmental Policy Act

  • Protections for the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

  • Investment in public land agency climate resiliency

  • Mineral leasing act reform

  • Bonding reform and decommissioned, or orphaned, wells clean up

While it often feels like decisions made in D.C. are out of our hands, it is critical that we remember we elect these individuals to represent us. We have the power to call or write to them regarding how a decision they made makes us feel. We have the power to re-elect them or to vote them out of office. We have the power to hold them accountable to the needs of our communities. And so many of you already have. You have sent thousands of emails in support of the critical amendments that will ensure public lands remain protected, resilient to climate impacts, and accessible to all. Thank you for supporting these initiatives. We must keep pushing. Keep on the lookout for new ways to advocate for our priorities in the New Year, and ensure your voice is heard.

Outdoor Alliance Fly-In: AAC Trip Report

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During the week of June 11th, the Outdoor Alliance gathered the leaders of its member groups to virtually connect with lawmakers, agency officials, and policymakers in D.C. For over ten years, Outdoor Alliance has regularly convened its coalition members to meet with decision-makers in D.C. and advocate for human-powered outdoor recreation and conservation issues on behalf of recreationists.

When OA’s member groups come together and are unified on the issues that matter most to recreationists, lawmakers listen, and we can better protect the places we love. 

Here’s a conversation between AAC CEO  Mitsu Iwasaki, and AAC Policy Associate Amelia Howe. 

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Interview with Mitsu Iwasaki

Amelia: What was the OA Fly-In all about? 

Mitsu: Our goal was to build connections with legislators as well as administrative and agency officials, and to ensure public lands and waters are protected for the climbing and human-powered outdoor recreation community.

Amelia: What were the priorities you and your colleagues focused on during your conversations that will benefit the climbing community?

Mitsu: There are several key priorities that we focused on.

  1. We want to strengthen recreation and conservation policies to protect more places and increase equitable and sustainable access to outdoor recreation. In particular, we wanted to repair some of the damage to core conservation tools over the last few years.

    • An example of a damaged conservation tool is the shortened required public comment period for the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). As you already might know, we have a lawsuit with the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) to reestablish the public comment component of NEPA. During the week, we also championed the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR), Colorado Outdoor Recreation Economy Act (CORE), and Protecting America’s Wilderness and Public Lands Act (PAW+). These together will help to expand the protection of public lands and water protection while simplifying the permitting process, which would lead to more equitable access.

  2. Many of us have some understanding of 30x30, which works towards protecting 30% of public lands and waters by 2030. We clarified our support for 30x30 and ensured lawmakers recognize that the outdoor recreation community has a role to play in reaching those goals while also helping rural communities navigate economic changes.

  3. We pushed for the notion that management agencies are severely underfunded and need better funding to fulfill their stewardship responsibilities. During these conversations, we communicated to Park and Forest Services that a few of our member organizations, like Access Fund and IMBA, have the experience and capacity to support infrastructure projects. 

Amelia: Are the agencies and government officials familiar with the climbing and outdoor recreation communities? 

Mitsu: Yes! Many have deep, personal relationships with outdoor recreation. The agencies and government officials we met with can sympathize with the interests and needs of the outdoor recreation communities.

Amelia: That’s great to hear. 

Mitsu: When we look closely at legislation like the CORE act or the Mt Hood NRA, we can see that conservation and outdoor recreation are very much part of the thinking. In my experience, the recreation community’s presence has grown and continues to grow in DC. 

Amelia: What are some of the more pressing challenges the climbing community is facing that were discussed during these sessions?  

Mitsu: Funding and capacity building, access, and climate are among the most pressing challenges we discussed. For instance, while we knew the Forest Services’ budget has transformed from less than 20% in fire suppression to more than 50% towards fire suppression over the last decade, at least in part due to climate change, we learned that the Forest Service has lost over half of their planning staff over the last handful of years. While they’ve been appropriated more funds, they’ll be prioritizing rebuilding capacity this coming year. 

Amelia: Can you speak to the importance of bringing OA partners together for these meetings?

Mitsu: Together, we’re able to unite and coordinate strategies and actions with policy experts from across the human-powered recreation spaces from across the country. This helps us create a larger and more informed presence through our joint policy shop. We’re able to track important issues locally, regionally, and nationally and how they may overlap across our sectors in a way that we simply couldn’t as independent organizations.

Amelia: Stronger in numbers? 

Mitsu: Definitely. Through combining our resources, we’re able to maintain a strong presence in DC through incredibly effective individuals like Adam Cramer, OA’s CEO, and his team. I believe together we represent 300,000 members from across the country.

Amelia: What should climbers keep their eyes on during this administration? 

Mitsu: I think as climbers, we should be continuously asking ourselves what kind of action we can take to better support the National Park Service, Forest Service, and local governments and land managers. 

Amelia: Any specifics on why and which policies? 

Mitsu: We know agencies have limited funding, are pulled in many directions by varied interests and there is a continued growing impact and demand. Keeping an eye on SOAR, CORE/PAW+, and 30x30, as well as communicating support to your congresswomen/men and senators is critically important. In addition, becoming or staying active and up to date with policies that help to protect and provide access is critically important for our future as climbers. 

Amelia: What was your favorite meeting or personal fly-in highlight?

Mitsu: Meeting Malcolm McGeary from Senator Wyden’s office and learning about what’s been happening in Oregon was my highlight. I just moved to Colorado from Oregon last year, so those issues are close to home for me. 

In addition, hearing from Vice President Harris’ office that activating towards 30x30 is among their highest priorities, which was crystallized throughout the week as the Department of the Interior and Department of Agriculture communicated their intent toward 30x30 goals. This gave me a huge amount of optimism towards meeting those very ambitious goals.

Amelia: That’s wonderful! 

Mitsu: Right? In my experience, it’s quite rare to hear or experience such unified multi-agency enthusiasm and direction toward a common goal. 

Amelia: Last question for you, Mitsu. If you had one tip for climbers who want to contribute to policy and advocacy work what would it be? 

Mitsu: There are many ways for climbers to contribute to policy and advocacy work, but one place to start would be to volunteer or support the policy work of both the AAC and your local climbing organization! 

Photo: AAC Member Grey Satterfield

Photo: AAC Member Grey Satterfield

The American Alpine Club is thrilled to be a contributing member of the Outdoor Alliance. The Outdoor Alliance consists of Access Fund, American Canoe Association, American Whitewater, IMBA, Winter Wildlands Alliance, The Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, Colorado Mountain Club, and Surfrider Foundation–while the groups range from climbers to backcountry skiers to mountain bikers, the members share many common priorities and values. 

A Socially Distanced Utah Hill to Crag

On November 4th the American Alpine Club had the privilege of partnering with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) for an intimate, COVID-safe, Hill to Crag event with Congressman John Curtis from Utah’s 3rd district. This district is home to many of Utah’s iconic climbing areas like Joe’s Valley, Moab, Indian Creek, American Fork Canyon, and Lone Peak Cirque. With Curtis representing so many climbers, it’s important for him and his team to gain an understanding of who the climbing community is, learn about the impact they have on local economies, and understand why it is important to both protect, and advocate for climbing resources in the state. The small group of local advocates traveled to American Fork Canyon, the traditional homelands of the Ute people, to connect with the Congressman, his Chief of Staff Corey Norman, and the Congressman’s wife Susan Snarr, over our shared love and gratitude for Utah's public lands. 

Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Typically, Hill to Crag events are robust, full of AAC volunteers, local guide companies, businesses, local climbing organizations (LCOs) legislators, and land managers. This year we created a socially distanced atmosphere that was within the Utah County group size requirements, and made all participants feel safe. A few members of the SLCA policy team represented the LCO, and one AAC employee guided the Congressman and his group, along with two members of the local USFS district to Division Wall, an American Fork staple that the SLCA has spent time and resources to maintain through trail work and re-bolting efforts over the years. This area provided a perfect example of the work that is required to maintain the safety and conservation of a climbing area. The staging areas offered an example of the work LCO’s must due in order to combat the erosion that is occurring due to increased use of the resource. Our team was able to point to the work of LCO’s while also noting the need for continued and sustained funding for maintenance of these places. 

SLCA’s Jason Hall, David Carter, and Grace Olscamp with Chief of Staff Corey Norman, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and Amelia Howe Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

SLCA’s Jason Hall, David Carter, and Grace Olscamp with Chief of Staff Corey Norman, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and Amelia Howe Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Once we arrived at the base of the climb, we kitted our team up in Black Diamond gear that the company graciously provided us for the event, went through safety and gear checks, and demonstrated climbing tips and tricks on the route. Once folks began to climb, the real work began. In between climbs and belays, the group discussed issues that are important to climbers on both a local and federal level, and asked the Congressman questions in order to gain a deeper understanding of where he and his team are coming from, and what their priorities are for the coming year. 

Being on site with a Congressperson at a climbing area offers a unique opportunity to visually walk the individual through the process of bolting an area, maintaining trails, and explain the need for fixed anchor maintenance.

Chief of Staff Corey Norman and AAC’s Amelia Howe celebrating post successful climb! Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Chief of Staff Corey Norman and AAC’s Amelia Howe celebrating post successful climb! Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

“When you connect a technical request with a visual experience, it is much more memorable, and if done well, there is an opportunity to create a champion in Congress who truly understands the value and technicality of the climbing resource. ”
— Amelia Howe, AAC Sen. Policy Associate

One of the SLCA asks for the Congressman was for him to write a letter in support of a “Minimum Tool Requirement” that would allow for the streamlined use of a power drill in order to maintain the fixed anchors in the Lone Peak Wilderness area of American Fork Canyon. When the Congressman arrived at the top of the route, he was able to better understand what a fixed anchor is, and saw first hand the importance of maintaining this piece of the climbing system to ensure the safety of users. Check out SLCA's work on this issue here.

The AAC came prepared to discuss several key issues that our policy team is focusing on currently, including protecting the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), and promoting the 30x30 Initiative to protect 30% of America’s public lands and waters by 2030. Congressman Curtis sees the importance of acknowledging climate change and its impact on public lands, and understands the value of recreation. He had several great questions surrounding the 30x30 initiative and how it would impact Utahns, and the AAC was able to fill him in with a report on the bill. 

Grace Olscamp, Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Grace Olscamp, Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

It was reassuring to hear the work that Congressman Curtis is doing to lead his party on various climate change initiatives such as the Utah Climate and Clean Air Compact, and his commitment to having hard conversations regarding why climate change should not be a partisan issue, but a people issue. You can check out his weekly series of “Curtis Climate Chats” on twitter, but here is a sneak peak to one he filmed mid climb in American Fork!

Days like this do not come often, but every time they do we leave feeling inspired and hopeful for the future of climbing management and America’s public lands. Building relationships with legislators is one piece to the climbing advocacy puzzle. We believe that events like Hill to Crag are key in finding common ground, educating folks on what the climbing system entails as well as what climbing and public lands mean to their constituents. It is important to come to events like this with an open mind, ready to share our policy desires, yet willing to hear feedback from legislators, and listen to their ideas as well. We are grateful for the opportunity Congressman Curtis, Corey, and Sue provided us, and are looking forward to continuing in the work with Congressman’s team moving forward.

Voter turnout sets records: Biden-Harris Administration turning their attention to climate and NEPA

As the AAC wraps up our landmark get out the vote campaign, Send it to the Polls, we’re feeling inspired and motivated by the climbing community. In the midst of a global pandemic, you committed to vote, educated others about how to vote, and importantly, you showed up to make your voice heard.

COVID-19 changed the way many Americans participate in the democratic process but against all the odds there was a record setting voter turnout! According to the non-partisan United States Elections Project, 160 million people voted, and there was a turnout rate of 66.9%. Turnout has not been this high since 1900 — 120 years ago. Investments were made across the country to increase voter accessibility like online and same day registration, mail-in ballots and earlier than normal voting. All measures the AAC supports carrying forward into future election cycles in order to continue breaking down voting barriers.

With the 2020 election in the books, we’ve been asked what a Biden-Harris Administration means for the climate and for fixing important environmental regulations like the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA).

The efficacy of a Biden-Harris environmental agenda partially depended on who controls the Senate - an outcome that was recently decided by two run-off elections in Georgia. With two Democrats winning Senate seats in Georgia, there will be an even split in power in the Senate with Vice President elect Harris acting as the tie breaker. This could mean big things for the conservation lands designations that we advocated for during the previous congress and for the composition of important committees like the Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources.

Check out the Summit Register issue #1 for an article about climate change impacts on the climbing community in Georgia.

With a shift in power in Congress, we’re hopeful to see the Biden Administration’s extensive legislative agenda realized. President Elect Biden’s website lists climate as a top four priority, and many of the policies highlighted to change in the first 100 days relate to repairing the countless rollbacks we witnessed over the past four years. In fact, the same day that President Trump announced changes to the Council on Environmental Qualities regulations that implement NEPA, then presidential hopeful Joe Biden “outlined an environmental policy that would roll back President Trump’s environmental reforms, invest trillions in clean energy and transportation, and set aggressive emissions goals, including emissions-free power by 2035.”

While we’re hopeful that the incoming Administration will correct these environmental rollbacks, it’s important that they hear from you to prioritize this goal.

The American Alpine Club alongside our partners at the Winter Wildlands Alliance, Western Environmental Law Center and Earthjustice, will continue to fight the previous administration’s NEPA rollback in court and expect to see challenges from intervening parties with a vested interest in a poorly functioning NEPA process. We’ll need your help to keep them at bay.

The National Environmental Policy Act ensures federal decision making is transparent, scientifically informed, and that the public has an opportunity to share their expertise and concerns. It's a bedrock environmental law that requires Federal agencies to engage in a project review process to identify the environmental, cultural, economic, and health impacts of a project, as well as offering alternatives to the plan before a decision is made.

NEPA is also a fantastic tool to help federal agencies consider and account for cumulative impacts like climate change but it needs to be restored to its original form.

Alongside correcting NEPA, President Elect Biden and Vice President Elect Harris have committed to re-entering the Paris Climate Agreement, and ensuring a just transition to renewable energy. With climate policy receiving a potential spotlight in the coming year - we look forward to advocating for public land management as a solution to the climate crisis. Policy objectives like the 30 x 30 resolution to protect 30% of public lands and waters by 2030 are a fantastic opportunity for conservation and recreation groups to conserve critical ecosystems, combat climate change and promote human powered outdoor recreation.

There’s a lot more work to be done, and we’ll need your help pushing the incoming Administration to stand up for the outdoor recreation communities needs, but we’re hopeful about the opportunities on the horizon.