The American Alpine Club Announces 2023 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

PC: Nelson Neirinck

March 2023

The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond Equipment are pleased to announce the 2023 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club's 120-year tradition by funding individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first-free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Six recipients have been awarded a total of $39,000 for this cycle, with objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality being looked upon with favor. Black Diamond Equipment is a proud sponsor of the Cutting Edge Grant and a key partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism. This year we are also grateful for the support of big wall luminary John Middendorf.

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Jackson Marvell will receive $8,000 to attempt the north face of Jannu in Nepal (7,710m). This line was climbed nearly two decades ago by a Russian team in siege style over two years. Marvell and his team will be attempting an alpine-style climb of the route. After an attempt in 2021, Marvell felt confident an alpine-style ascent was possible. In 2022, Marvell and his group were turned around due to unfavorable weather. They are excited about another attempt. 

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Seth Timpano will receive $8,000 to attempt Pik Koroleva in Kyrgyzstan (5,812m). He has found two unclimbed lines, both of which would be highly technical and require sustained climbing on a rarely climbed mountain. Timpano has first ascents in India, Alaska, and Kyrgyzstan. In 2010, Timpano received the McNeill-Nott Award, and in 2014 he received the Lyman-Spitzer Grant now called the Cutting Edge Award.

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Christian Black will receive $8,000 to attempt White Sapphire in Kishtwar, India. White Sapphire (6,040m) lies near the more famous Cerro Kishtwar. Black is drawn to the peak for its technical challenge, beautiful line, and the opportunity to explore with a small team in good style. Christian Black received the Live Your Dream Grant in 2022 for his expedition to British Columbia to attempt a new route on Mt. Bute. You can read more about it here. Vitaliy Musiyenko (bottom left) and Hayden Wyatt (bottom right) will be joining Christian on White Saphier.

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Noah Besen will receive $6,000 to climb in Coronation Fjord on Baffin Island, Canada. Besen wants to attempt an adventurous, human-powered expedition to an area on the remote east coast of Baffin Island containing 1,000-meter cliffs on which there have been no previously documented climbing expeditions. All routes climbed will be first ascents. Through university studies of the Coronation Glacier area, Besen has determined there are several areas with massive rock faces for potential big-wall free climbs. This expedition will require climbing, paddling, and wilderness and safety skills to succeed.

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Lindsey Hamm will receive $6,000 to visit the Charakusa Valley in the Karakoram, which has produced cutting-edge climbs for nearly forty years. This will be Hamm’s second trip to the Charakusa. In 2022, she, Dakota Walz, and Lane Mathis established a first ascent on a formation between Spanster Brakk and Naisa Brakk (which they named Ishaqu Brakk): Pull Down the Sky (15 pitches, 5.11 R). This year, Hamm along with Holly Mackin, Stephanie Williams, and Thomas Bukowski will attempt routes on Naisa Brakk (~5600m) and Spanster Brakk (height unknown). 

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James Gustafson will receive $3,000 to attempt Desdemona Spire (2,150m) on the Stikine Ice Cap of Alaska. The first and only recorded ascent of Desdemona, done in 1975, was completed by Carla Firey, Paula Kregel, Craig Lingle, Jim McCarthy, and Craig McKibben. Their line was largely a glacial route with one rock pitch on the north ridge. After Gustafson contacted the first ascensionists, he realized it is unclear which peak the 1975 team climbed, due to whiteout conditions and conflicting descriptions, meaning Desdemona may be still unclimbed.

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Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30.

Contact:

Shane Johnson, Chief Marketing Officer: [email protected]

Eddie Espinosa, Community Programs Director: [email protected]

The American Alpine Club Announces 2022 Cutting Edge Grant Recipients

PC: Priti Wright, K6 Central

March 2022

The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond Equipment are pleased to announce the 2022 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club's 100-year tradition and seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Four recipients have been awarded a total of $37,000 for this cycle, with objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality being looked upon with favor. Black Diamond Equipment is a proud sponsor of the Cutting Edge Grant and a key partner in supporting cutting-edge alpinism.

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PC: JThompson

Chantel Astorga will receive a grant for $10,000 to attempt a new route on Lunag Ri (6,895m) in Nepal. Chantel, alongside Anne Gilbert Chase & Jason Thompson will hope to establish a new line on Lunag Ri in alpine style. Chantel recently grabbed the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge in under 15 hours on Denali in 2021. Anne, Jason, and Chantel established a new route on the unclimbed SW Face, Mount Nilkantha (6,500m), India in 2017.

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Jerome Sullivan will receive a grant for $10,000 to attempt the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6,850m) in the Pakistani Karakoram. Pumari Chhish East is one of the major unclimbed technical summits of Karakoram. Located on the Hispar glacier, it presents three characteristic granite pillars and a 2,000m face. Jerome will attempt the climb alongside Martin Elias, Victor Saucede, and Jeremy Stagnetto. Recently the team climbed K13 west by the new route Harvest Moon. Jerome & Jeremy did the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Cerro Murallon (Patagonia) and the first ascent of Pyramid Peak in the Revelation Range (Alaska).

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Alan Rousseau will receive $10,000 to attempt an alpine style ascent of the North Face of Jannu (7,710m) in Nepal. Given its aspect, elevation, and sheer scale (3,200 vertical meters), Jannu is considered one of the most complex alpine objectives in the world. The upper north face headwall has yet to see an alpine style ascent. Jackson Marvell will join Alan on this attempt. Jackson & Alan climbed a new route on the east face of Mount Dickey Ruth Gorge Grinder (1,600m, M7, AI6+) and repeated Trailer Park on London Tower (3,000' WI6, M6), both located in the Ruth Gorge of the Alaska Range.

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Priti Wright will receive $7,000 to attempt a new route on K7 in the Pakistani Karakoram. Priti & Jeffrey Wright will attempt the unclimbed peak K7 Central (6,858m) by establishing an entirely new technical route in alpine style. During Priti and Jeff's first Karakoram expedition, they were successful in establishing the first ascent of K6 Central (7,155m) in 2020.

FA of K6 Central, Priti and Jeff Wright. PC: Jeff Wright.

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The American Alpine Club has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. From funding the first ascent of Mt. Logan in 1925 and the exploration of the Karakoram in 1938 to the 2006 first ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, and the countless expeditions in between, the AAC has stood to encourage climbers to push their physical and mental limits, supported their pursuits, and celebrated their accomplishments.

The Cutting Edge Grant continues this tradition, aiming to fund advanced climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant is sponsored by Black Diamond Equipment, whose equipment has helped climbers and alpinists to reach their summits for decades. Black Diamond Equipment is an integral partner in supporting climbers of all abilities and disciplines, with a long history of supporting climbers and their dreams through grants like the Cutting Edge Grant.

Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30.

Contact:

Shane Johnson, Chief Marketing Officer: [email protected]
Eddie Espinosa, Community Programs Director: [email protected]

About American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Climbing; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, Samuel F. Pryor Shawangunk Gateway Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member
at americanalpineclub.org.

A Socially Distanced Utah Hill to Crag

On November 4th the American Alpine Club had the privilege of partnering with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) for an intimate, COVID-safe, Hill to Crag event with Congressman John Curtis from Utah’s 3rd district. This district is home to many of Utah’s iconic climbing areas like Joe’s Valley, Moab, Indian Creek, American Fork Canyon, and Lone Peak Cirque. With Curtis representing so many climbers, it’s important for him and his team to gain an understanding of who the climbing community is, learn about the impact they have on local economies, and understand why it is important to both protect, and advocate for climbing resources in the state. The small group of local advocates traveled to American Fork Canyon, the traditional homelands of the Ute people, to connect with the Congressman, his Chief of Staff Corey Norman, and the Congressman’s wife Susan Snarr, over our shared love and gratitude for Utah's public lands. 

Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Typically, Hill to Crag events are robust, full of AAC volunteers, local guide companies, businesses, local climbing organizations (LCOs) legislators, and land managers. This year we created a socially distanced atmosphere that was within the Utah County group size requirements, and made all participants feel safe. A few members of the SLCA policy team represented the LCO, and one AAC employee guided the Congressman and his group, along with two members of the local USFS district to Division Wall, an American Fork staple that the SLCA has spent time and resources to maintain through trail work and re-bolting efforts over the years. This area provided a perfect example of the work that is required to maintain the safety and conservation of a climbing area. The staging areas offered an example of the work LCO’s must due in order to combat the erosion that is occurring due to increased use of the resource. Our team was able to point to the work of LCO’s while also noting the need for continued and sustained funding for maintenance of these places. 

SLCA’s Jason Hall, David Carter, and Grace Olscamp with Chief of Staff Corey Norman, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and Amelia Howe Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Once we arrived at the base of the climb, we kitted our team up in Black Diamond gear that the company graciously provided us for the event, went through safety and gear checks, and demonstrated climbing tips and tricks on the route. Once folks began to climb, the real work began. In between climbs and belays, the group discussed issues that are important to climbers on both a local and federal level, and asked the Congressman questions in order to gain a deeper understanding of where he and his team are coming from, and what their priorities are for the coming year. 

Being on site with a Congressperson at a climbing area offers a unique opportunity to visually walk the individual through the process of bolting an area, maintaining trails, and explain the need for fixed anchor maintenance.

Chief of Staff Corey Norman and AAC’s Amelia Howe celebrating post successful climb! Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

“When you connect a technical request with a visual experience, it is much more memorable, and if done well, there is an opportunity to create a champion in Congress who truly understands the value and technicality of the climbing resource. ”

— Amelia Howe, AAC Sen. Policy Associate

One of the SLCA asks for the Congressman was for him to write a letter in support of a “Minimum Tool Requirement” that would allow for the streamlined use of a power drill in order to maintain the fixed anchors in the Lone Peak Wilderness area of American Fork Canyon. When the Congressman arrived at the top of the route, he was able to better understand what a fixed anchor is, and saw first hand the importance of maintaining this piece of the climbing system to ensure the safety of users. Check out SLCA's work on this issue here.

The AAC came prepared to discuss several key issues that our policy team is focusing on currently, including protecting the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), and promoting the 30x30 Initiative to protect 30% of America’s public lands and waters by 2030. Congressman Curtis sees the importance of acknowledging climate change and its impact on public lands, and understands the value of recreation. He had several great questions surrounding the 30x30 initiative and how it would impact Utahns, and the AAC was able to fill him in with a report on the bill. 

Grace Olscamp, Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

It was reassuring to hear the work that Congressman Curtis is doing to lead his party on various climate change initiatives such as the Utah Climate and Clean Air Compact, and his commitment to having hard conversations regarding why climate change should not be a partisan issue, but a people issue. You can check out his weekly series of “Curtis Climate Chats” on twitter, but here is a sneak peak to one he filmed mid climb in American Fork!

Days like this do not come often, but every time they do we leave feeling inspired and hopeful for the future of climbing management and America’s public lands. Building relationships with legislators is one piece to the climbing advocacy puzzle. We believe that events like Hill to Crag are key in finding common ground, educating folks on what the climbing system entails as well as what climbing and public lands mean to their constituents. It is important to come to events like this with an open mind, ready to share our policy desires, yet willing to hear feedback from legislators, and listen to their ideas as well. We are grateful for the opportunity Congressman Curtis, Corey, and Sue provided us, and are looking forward to continuing in the work with Congressman’s team moving forward.