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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

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A Socially Distanced Utah Hill to Crag

On November 4th the American Alpine Club had the privilege of partnering with the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) for an intimate, COVID-safe, Hill to Crag event with Congressman John Curtis from Utah’s 3rd district. This district is home to many of Utah’s iconic climbing areas like Joe’s Valley, Moab, Indian Creek, American Fork Canyon, and Lone Peak Cirque. With Curtis representing so many climbers, it’s important for him and his team to gain an understanding of who the climbing community is, learn about the impact they have on local economies, and understand why it is important to both protect, and advocate for climbing resources in the state. The small group of local advocates traveled to American Fork Canyon, the traditional homelands of the Ute people, to connect with the Congressman, his Chief of Staff Corey Norman, and the Congressman’s wife Susan Snarr, over our shared love and gratitude for Utah's public lands. 

Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Typically, Hill to Crag events are robust, full of AAC volunteers, local guide companies, businesses, local climbing organizations (LCOs) legislators, and land managers. This year we created a socially distanced atmosphere that was within the Utah County group size requirements, and made all participants feel safe. A few members of the SLCA policy team represented the LCO, and one AAC employee guided the Congressman and his group, along with two members of the local USFS district to Division Wall, an American Fork staple that the SLCA has spent time and resources to maintain through trail work and re-bolting efforts over the years. This area provided a perfect example of the work that is required to maintain the safety and conservation of a climbing area. The staging areas offered an example of the work LCO’s must due in order to combat the erosion that is occurring due to increased use of the resource. Our team was able to point to the work of LCO’s while also noting the need for continued and sustained funding for maintenance of these places. 

SLCA’s Jason Hall, David Carter, and Grace Olscamp with Chief of Staff Corey Norman, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and Amelia Howe Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

SLCA’s Jason Hall, David Carter, and Grace Olscamp with Chief of Staff Corey Norman, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and Amelia Howe Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Once we arrived at the base of the climb, we kitted our team up in Black Diamond gear that the company graciously provided us for the event, went through safety and gear checks, and demonstrated climbing tips and tricks on the route. Once folks began to climb, the real work began. In between climbs and belays, the group discussed issues that are important to climbers on both a local and federal level, and asked the Congressman questions in order to gain a deeper understanding of where he and his team are coming from, and what their priorities are for the coming year. 

Being on site with a Congressperson at a climbing area offers a unique opportunity to visually walk the individual through the process of bolting an area, maintaining trails, and explain the need for fixed anchor maintenance.

Chief of Staff Corey Norman and AAC’s Amelia Howe celebrating post successful climb! Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Chief of Staff Corey Norman and AAC’s Amelia Howe celebrating post successful climb! Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

“When you connect a technical request with a visual experience, it is much more memorable, and if done well, there is an opportunity to create a champion in Congress who truly understands the value and technicality of the climbing resource. ”
— Amelia Howe, AAC Sen. Policy Associate

One of the SLCA asks for the Congressman was for him to write a letter in support of a “Minimum Tool Requirement” that would allow for the streamlined use of a power drill in order to maintain the fixed anchors in the Lone Peak Wilderness area of American Fork Canyon. When the Congressman arrived at the top of the route, he was able to better understand what a fixed anchor is, and saw first hand the importance of maintaining this piece of the climbing system to ensure the safety of users. Check out SLCA's work on this issue here.

The AAC came prepared to discuss several key issues that our policy team is focusing on currently, including protecting the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), and promoting the 30x30 Initiative to protect 30% of America’s public lands and waters by 2030. Congressman Curtis sees the importance of acknowledging climate change and its impact on public lands, and understands the value of recreation. He had several great questions surrounding the 30x30 initiative and how it would impact Utahns, and the AAC was able to fill him in with a report on the bill. 

Grace Olscamp, Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

Grace Olscamp, Jason Hall, Susan Snarr, Congressman Curtis, and David Carter discussing SLCA updates Cody Kaemmerlen for Wilder Mind

It was reassuring to hear the work that Congressman Curtis is doing to lead his party on various climate change initiatives such as the Utah Climate and Clean Air Compact, and his commitment to having hard conversations regarding why climate change should not be a partisan issue, but a people issue. You can check out his weekly series of “Curtis Climate Chats” on twitter, but here is a sneak peak to one he filmed mid climb in American Fork!

Days like this do not come often, but every time they do we leave feeling inspired and hopeful for the future of climbing management and America’s public lands. Building relationships with legislators is one piece to the climbing advocacy puzzle. We believe that events like Hill to Crag are key in finding common ground, educating folks on what the climbing system entails as well as what climbing and public lands mean to their constituents. It is important to come to events like this with an open mind, ready to share our policy desires, yet willing to hear feedback from legislators, and listen to their ideas as well. We are grateful for the opportunity Congressman Curtis, Corey, and Sue provided us, and are looking forward to continuing in the work with Congressman’s team moving forward.

What Biden's Appointees mean for Climbers

The Biden Administration has been busy appointing cabinet positions over the past month, and outdoor advocates, climbers, and recreationists anxiously awaited the announcement of the key players who will be leading the environmental agenda during Biden’s presidency. With only under two weeks left in 2020, cabinet appointees were announced and answers provided. Before appointees can formally assume their leadership roles, the Senate must pass a majority vote during the appointment process starting as early as today, Inauguration Day. While we wait for this to happen, we wanted to share a profile of the appointees, and outline what they bring to the public lands and climate conversation. 

Before diving into profiles, it’s important to acknowledge some critical facts about these individuals. Each appointee on this list has years of proven experience working in government and advancing momentum around the issues that their role will cover. They all have shown a commitment to allowing science and data to inform the policies that they write and represent. Each appointee has committed their careers to standing up for the rights, health, and access of the American people and stand for a clear shift from the energy dominance agenda of the Trump era Administration. Last but not least, we applaud the Biden-Harris administration for selecting a cabinet that represents the American people and celebrates the diversity of our nation. At the American Alpine Club, we believe these are the critical features that make an effective leader when it comes to managing the agencies that are so deeply connected to the health and well-being of public lands, the American people, and the climate. 

Secretary of the Interior–Rep. Deb Haaland

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The appointment of Rep. Haaland to Secretary of the Interior is making history. If confirmed, Haaland, a member of Pueblo of Laguna, will be the first Native American to serve as Secretary of the Interior. This is important for many reasons, but one in particular is the critical role in stewarding the federal government's relationship with America’s 574 federally recognized Tribal Nations. The agency’s history of aiding in the disenfranchisement of  Native American peoples cannot be ignored. With Haaland at the helm, the department will be better positioned to address this unjust history, and will work to both repair relationships and better fight for justice for Tribal Nations and Indigenous communities. 

For years, Haaland has been an outspoken advocate for Native Americans, their rights as sovereign nations, and their ownership of the land. In this role, she will be empowered to re-envision a new path for the Interior’s role in working with Tribal Nations and Indigenous communities around the country. We believe this offers an opportunity for the Interior to reimagine conservation through a tribal sovereignty lens, and right the countless wrongs the department has made throughout history and continues to perpetuate today. 

Additionally, Haaland will utilize her background as a fierce climate advocate to manage over 480 million acres of America's public lands. We expect to see a stark transition from the Trump Administration's “energy dominance” agenda to focus on managing public lands as a means for climate mitigation. This could mean more opportunities for renewable energy development and conservation of large swaths of land, especially in the west. 

As a testament to this, earlier this year Haaland along with her co-sponsors, introduced a resolution to the House that aims to protect 30% of America’s public lands and waters by 2030. Among other goals, the 30 x 30 vision aims to address climate change through broad conservation goals. We expect Haaland to bring this agenda to her role as DOI Secretary, and hope that her conservation mindset will in turn elevate the experience of climbing and outdoor recreation.


White House Council on Environmental Quality, Chairwoman–Brenda Mallory 

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The AAC celebrates the selection of Brenda Mallory to lead the White House Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ). Mallory is highly qualified for this position, having served as CEQ general counsel under President Obama, and brings to the CEQ more than three decades of work on environmental law and advocacy issues. In her current role as the Director of Regulatory Policy at the Southern Environmental Law Center (SELC), she works at the state and federal level to coordinate the development and implementation of SELC’s regulatory policy agenda. Mallory has a proven 35 year history of putting people and communities first and is deeply concerned with issues of environmental justice, climate change, and public health. She will be a key player in bringing environmental justice to the forefront of the conversation at the CEQ. 

The AAC is a fierce advocate for the National Environmental Policy act (NEPA), a bedrock environmental law that is implemented through regulations crafted by the CEQ. Currently, the AAC is in litigation to restore NEPA back to its original state, following regulatory rollbacks made by the Trump Administration which erode the spirit of the law. These rollbacks result in the fast-tracking of development projects, the subduing of the public’s voice, and the omission of cumulative impacts, such as climate change, in federal agency decision making. In parallel litigation to our own, SELC is also representing a group of stakeholders concerned by these NEPA rollbacks. As a lifelong advocate for NEPA, we believe Mallory is primed and ready to repair and restore NEPA, making her a critical ally in our efforts. 


Environmental Protection Agency, Chief–Michael Regan

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You may not have heard of Michael Regan before this critical appointment, but he is an exceptional pick for the job. Currently serving as the head of the North Carolina Department of Environmental Quality, Regan would bring a wealth of knowledge and experience to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA). A proven advocate for climate, public health, and environmental justice, Regan began his career working on air quality issues at the EPA during the Clinton administration. After working with the EPA under Clinton, Regan spent almost a decade leading the Environmental Defense Fund’s efforts to grow clean energy and bring new and often neglected stakeholders into the conversation.  

He will certainly have his work cut out for him as the Trump administration has significantly downsized the agency over the past four years, and the agency is responsible for reversing dozens of key environmental regulations. Not only will Regan have to consider new environmental hazards and create rules to address them, he will also be in charge of remedying the damage done during Trump’s presidency. 

Regan’s nomination, along with Mallory’s and Haaland’s, are part of building a proposed environmental leadership team that would be the most diverse in our nation’s history. This is a critical change in cabinet make up, and indicates to the American public that their voices are being heard. Issues of environmental justice are high on the Biden-Harris administration’s priority list. It is clear that addressing the systemic racism that exists in the formation and execution of environmental policy and regulations in the past is an important first step to addressing our broken system. We hope the new cabinet feels empowered to create new opportunities to more intentionally consider the environmental justice implications of rules and regulations moving forward. Having cabinet leadership that better represents the American people is a step in the right direction.  

Special Presidential Envoy on Climate Change–John Kerry

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John Kerry, well known for his 30+ year commitment in Washington to advancing the pro-climate agenda, has a new position created especially for him. As the Special Presidential Envoy on Climate Change sitting on the National Security Council, he will not need to be confirmed by the Senate, and will be largely charged with re-establishing the country’s credibility in the climate space among world leaders. Luckily for the American people, Kerry has been doing this diplomatic and legislative climate work on various levels of government throughout his career. 

Kerry has already announced his intention to rejoin the Paris accord as his first step. However, he is hoping to spend 2021 working toward an international climate summit in November, which will take a lot of relationship rebuilding with the major climate accord players. Unfortunately, the United States broke the trust of its climate accord counterparts, and Kerry will need to have hard conversations with various world leaders regarding why he believes that there will not be a possibility of the US dropping out again in four years. Much of his work globally will be happening in tandem with domestic climate efforts, and the two will rely on one another to convince the nation, and the world, that the United States is committed to combating climate change and righting our Nation’s wrongs of the past four years.  

Climate Czar–Gina McCarthy

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As former head of the Environmental Protection Agency and current CEO of the Natural Resources Defense Council, Gina McCarthy is the perfect person to appoint to oversee domestic climate policy in the Biden-Harris administration. Unlike several of the cabinet positions mentioned above, McCarthy will not have to undergo a Senate confirmation process. Beginning on January 21, she will be charged to ensure that Biden is being held accountable in his commitment to climate action, and that there is a whole government approach being taken on matters of climate change. Part of this will be ensuring that Biden is able to follow through on his pledge to help the US reach net-zero emissions by 2050, an impressive and critical goal in maintaining the health and well being of the global populace. 

Having been a key figure in the creation of Obama’s climate policies like the Clean Power Plan, and playing an instrumental role in orchestrating the Paris Climate Accord, we believe that McCarthy will be a steadfast advocate for clean energy, just transitions, and taking a more aggressive stance on climate action in various levels of government. We look forward to seeing McCarthy and Kerry hit the ground running on January 21st. 


Secretary of Agriculture–Tom Vilsack  

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Though there are a lot of exciting nominations, there are also some picks that feel a bit more status quo than many expected. Tom Vilsack has been nominated to serve as the Secretary of Agriculture. The Department of Agriculture is responsible for managing wildly different things. From supporting farmers and ranchers to influencing food assistance programs, but in terms of public lands, this department manages almost 200 million acres of America’s national forests and grasslands. Managing national forests and grasslands is no easy task, and only continues to become more challenging as climate change continues to negatively impact public lands across the country. Vilsack served in this same capacity during both terms of Obama’s presidency, and it is relatively unheard of for cabinet members to be asked to serve in the same role by subsequent administrations. One positive aspect of this, is he understands how government works and the importance of putting the right people in the right roles. He will be responsible for naming the next Chief of the Forest Service, and we hope to see him nominate someone who trusts in science and data, represents the needs of all Americans, and sees the benefit of conservation efforts.   

Currently, Vilsack serves as the chief executive of the US Dairy Export Council, an organization that is backed by the dairy industry, and may appear to some, an issue of conflict of interest for his acceptance of this role. There have also been claims, especially from groups who are critical of corporate agriculture and advocate for increased biodiversity, that Vilsack is not the best pick for the moment. Groups like Center for Biological Diversity indicate that working with Vilsack in order to move away from unsustainable logging practices and pesticide use was “an uphill climb”. 

In his previous term, Vilsack did address climate change as a factor that must be addressed, and worked to legitimize the Forest Service’s work on wildfire management. Both of these conversations would be an improvement from the current management approach through Sonny Perdue’s leadership during the Trump administration. 

When reading about the history and experience of Tom Vilsack one thing is abundantly clear, the requirements necessary to lead this department well are vast. It is hard to imagine one person who encompasses meaningful experience in agriculture, nutrition programs, food safety, international trade, forestry, fire management, and conservation. We will be interested to see who Vilsack selects to lead the US Forest Service, and whether or not he will encourage putting conservation first. We hope to see the USFS immediately work to protect and place value upon critical ecosystems such as the Tongass National Forest and Minnesota’s Boundary waters in order to manage land in a way that simultaneously mitigates climate change.

Ask Your Senators to Vote ‘Yes’ to Confirm These Leaders Today




Voter turnout sets records: Biden-Harris Administration turning their attention to climate and NEPA

As the AAC wraps up our landmark get out the vote campaign, Send it to the Polls, we’re feeling inspired and motivated by the climbing community. In the midst of a global pandemic, you committed to vote, educated others about how to vote, and importantly, you showed up to make your voice heard.

COVID-19 changed the way many Americans participate in the democratic process but against all the odds there was a record setting voter turnout! According to the non-partisan United States Elections Project, 160 million people voted, and there was a turnout rate of 66.9%. Turnout has not been this high since 1900 — 120 years ago. Investments were made across the country to increase voter accessibility like online and same day registration, mail-in ballots and earlier than normal voting. All measures the AAC supports carrying forward into future election cycles in order to continue breaking down voting barriers.

With the 2020 election in the books, we’ve been asked what a Biden-Harris Administration means for the climate and for fixing important environmental regulations like the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA).

The efficacy of a Biden-Harris environmental agenda partially depended on who controls the Senate - an outcome that was recently decided by two run-off elections in Georgia. With two Democrats winning Senate seats in Georgia, there will be an even split in power in the Senate with Vice President elect Harris acting as the tie breaker. This could mean big things for the conservation lands designations that we advocated for during the previous congress and for the composition of important committees like the Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources.

Check out the Summit Register issue #1 for an article about climate change impacts on the climbing community in Georgia.

With a shift in power in Congress, we’re hopeful to see the Biden Administration’s extensive legislative agenda realized. President Elect Biden’s website lists climate as a top four priority, and many of the policies highlighted to change in the first 100 days relate to repairing the countless rollbacks we witnessed over the past four years. In fact, the same day that President Trump announced changes to the Council on Environmental Qualities regulations that implement NEPA, then presidential hopeful Joe Biden “outlined an environmental policy that would roll back President Trump’s environmental reforms, invest trillions in clean energy and transportation, and set aggressive emissions goals, including emissions-free power by 2035.”

While we’re hopeful that the incoming Administration will correct these environmental rollbacks, it’s important that they hear from you to prioritize this goal.

The American Alpine Club alongside our partners at the Winter Wildlands Alliance, Western Environmental Law Center and Earthjustice, will continue to fight the previous administration’s NEPA rollback in court and expect to see challenges from intervening parties with a vested interest in a poorly functioning NEPA process. We’ll need your help to keep them at bay.

The National Environmental Policy Act ensures federal decision making is transparent, scientifically informed, and that the public has an opportunity to share their expertise and concerns. It's a bedrock environmental law that requires Federal agencies to engage in a project review process to identify the environmental, cultural, economic, and health impacts of a project, as well as offering alternatives to the plan before a decision is made.

NEPA is also a fantastic tool to help federal agencies consider and account for cumulative impacts like climate change but it needs to be restored to its original form.

Alongside correcting NEPA, President Elect Biden and Vice President Elect Harris have committed to re-entering the Paris Climate Agreement, and ensuring a just transition to renewable energy. With climate policy receiving a potential spotlight in the coming year - we look forward to advocating for public land management as a solution to the climate crisis. Policy objectives like the 30 x 30 resolution to protect 30% of public lands and waters by 2030 are a fantastic opportunity for conservation and recreation groups to conserve critical ecosystems, combat climate change and promote human powered outdoor recreation.

There’s a lot more work to be done, and we’ll need your help pushing the incoming Administration to stand up for the outdoor recreation communities needs, but we’re hopeful about the opportunities on the horizon.
















BREAKING NEWS: William Perry pendley’s nomination to lead bureau of land management is withdrawn!

William Perry Pendley is Unfit to Lead the Bureau of Land Management—Thank you for telling your representatives!

Remember this name: William Perry Pendley? A few weeks ago we asked climbers to write to their representatives to let them know that the outdoor community sees Pendley as unfit to lead the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). Hundreds of you took action to write your senators in opposition, and your voices were heard. Over the weekend news broke that the Trump administration withdrew its nomination of Pendley, to lead the Bureau of Land Management.

In a letter to the Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources, the Outdoor Alliance summed up our community’s beliefs surrounding the nomination stating:

“Pendley’s longstanding advocacy for the sell-off of public lands; history of disparaging comments directed against BIPOC, immigrant, and LGBTQ communities; his denial of the urgent threat of climate change; and his long history of advocacy against environmental protection and core conservation laws collectively make him manifestly unsuited to stewarding our country’s public lands.”

Photo by Julia Clark-Riddell of Anna Hazelnutt climbing the “Sad Boulders” of Payahuunadü

Photo by Julia Clark-Riddell of Anna Hazelnutt climbing the “Sad Boulders” of Payahuunadü

What now?

Unfortunately, Interior Secretary David Bernhardt, intends to keep Pendley in his “acting director” role, even though he clearly would have been unable to move forward in the role if it came to a confirmation vote in the senate. We believe this is unacceptable and we believe Pendley should be forced to resign. There are several active lawsuits  opposing his role as acting director that claim the Trump administration has kept him installed as acting director of the BLM far longer than what's legal under federal law. As this story progresses we will keep you up-to-date.

Thank you—the fight continues!

It is clear that the climbing and outdoor community overwhelmingly believe that Pendley is not the right person for the job. We asked our representatives to oppose the Trump administration’s nomination of Pendley to be the Director of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM), and our voices were heard. Now we must demand his resignation and push for a leader who embodies the mission of the BLM. Thank you for taking action! The AAC celebrates our community’s willingness to act under pressure and take the time to impact change when public lands, members of our communities, or climbing resources are under threat.



AAC is suing the Administration over change in NEPA, the peoples environmental law

When the government proposes a project that could impact the health of your community and environment, one federal law keeps you in the loop and allows your voice to be heard—but last week the Trump Administration pulled it apart. As a result, the AAC is joining forces with Winter Wildlands Alliance and 20 other conservation and environmental justice organizations to sue the Council on Environmental Quality and the Trump Administration.  

The National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) ensures federal decision making is transparent, scientifically informed and that the public has an opportunity to share their expertise and concerns. It’s a bedrock environmental law that requires Federal agencies to engage in a project review process to identify the environmental, cultural, economic, and health impacts of a project, as well as offering alternatives to the plan before a decision is made.

Sounds pretty reasonable right?

Well, after years of environmental deregulation under the guise of “efficiency” and “job creation,” the Trump Administration finalized its biggest rollback yet. On July 15, the White House’s Council on Environmental Quality released the final text of their updates to the rules that implement NEPA. 

These rule changes raise major concerns not only for the protection of public lands and outdoor recreation, but for the health and well-being of communities across the country who rely on clean air, water and a healthy climate. The destruction of NEPA is not only an environmental issue, but a social justice issue as well.

“This rule change is a massive step backward not only for public lands and the climbing community but for all Americans. NEPA ensures meaningful community participation and representation, it considers public health data and other important scientific research to make informed decisions, and it considers the composition of the affected area to determine and address disproportionate impacts on low-income and minority communities. These changes fly in the face of every American’s right to a healthy environment - especially now in the midst of a public health crisis.”
— Taylor Luneau, AAC Policy Manager

WHAT IS CEQ

Essentially, the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ), is the keeper of the nation’s environmental goals. Created by NEPA, the CEQ is meant to advise the Executive branch on how best to protect the quality of the nation’s environment. Importantly, it’s tasked with overseeing how NEPA is implemented by federal agencies such as the National Forest Service or the Bureau of Land Management. As you can imagine, the CEQ plays a major role in how our natural resources are managed, and that role can change dramatically from administration to administration. 

CUMULATIVE IMPACTS

The CEQ’s new regulations limit the scope of environmental review and remove meaningful science and data from decision making. Importantly, it no longer requires agencies to consider certain long-term effects of a project due to eliminating what are known as “cumulative and indirect impacts” from environmental analysis. These are the effects of a project that result from incremental actions, or impacts that are reasonably foreseeable in the future. These impacts may be minor individually, but collectively result in significant impacts over time. 

For example:

Say there’s a new logging proposal on Mt. Hood which will cut a road directly through the approach trail to your favorite climb! In the previous NEPA process, the Forest Service would need to create an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS) where they consider the immediate impacts of the logging proposal on things like wildlife, recreation, and the watershed. In addition, the EIS would also analyze the indirect effects, such as the long-term decline of a species due to habitat fragmentation, as well the cumulative impacts, like the impact on the climate due to removing a carbon rich forest.

In the updated NEPA process, the Forest Service is now only responsible for considering immediate and direct effects of the proposal and can ignore those indirect and cumulative impacts, of which there are many.

Removing the requirement to consider long-term project effects opens the door for extractive industries looking for fewer environmental constraints. This favors the interests of industry over the health of our communities and impedes our important work to address climate change.

PUBLIC PROCESS

Discussions surrounding NEPA cannot be had without acknowledging the systems of environmental racism that have been in place in this country since its inception. Disruptive federal projects like the interstate system or power plants, have historically landed in the communities of Black, Indigenous, and People of Color. The history of racial injustice caused by these federal projects was part of the impetus behind NEPA’s creation. The law provided the chance for community members and allies to have a say in projects being proposed in their own backyards. Trump’s rollback sidelines the public and gives corporate polluters the ability to cut corners and complete their own analysis without listening to opinions of constituents. Industry does not deserve to have the final say on the future of our communities and public lands. 

“The elimination of public comment periods silences citizens while giving a megaphone to corporations who profit from the destruction of public lands and pollute neighborhoods across the country.”
— Amelia Howe, AAC National Campaign Coordinator

HOW CAN WE INTERVENE?

Congress must take action to hold the Administration accountable and defend the National Environmental Policy Act, an act that once was celebrated for its overwhelming bi-partisan support. Our elected officials must understand that public process and the need for thorough environmental analysis are not partisan issues. We must elect officials who will stand up for laws that aim to protect our environment and vulnerable communities. 

The AAC is committed to fighting for the National Environmental Policy Act at all costs which is why we are suing the Trump Administration. There is a long fight ahead, but together we can protect our climbing landscapes and communities.






Anti-public lands advocate nominated to lead BLM —Tell Congress you disapprove

Trump nominates anti-public lands advocate to lead blm

On Tuesday, William Perry Pendley was officially nominated by Donald Trump to be the first permanent director of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) during Trump’s presidency. Yes, you read that correctly. For the last four years, the Trump administration has skirted the political system of checks and balances by allowing “acting directors” to run several public land agencies. Pendley, one of those acting directors selected by Interior Secretary David Bernhardt, was tasked with managing 245 million acres of public lands. This official nomination from the White House is three and a half years too late and is still the wrong candidate.  

What should have happened?

When Trump was elected president, he had the responsibility of nominating people to  leadership roles across all government agencies. Once someone is nominated for a role, the Senate is tasked to assess whether or not the individual is the right fit for leading an agency by voting to confirm the individual. Two-thirds, or 67 members of the Senate must agree to confirm Pendley to the role of BLM Director.

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Who is Pendley?

Like many other public land officials involved in this administration, Pendley has a long history of staunchly supporting the sale of public lands. In addition to this, he’s also considered by many to be more of a fringe voice in the public lands conversation, emphasizing the need for less government control of land and claiming that “The Founding Fathers intended all lands owned by the federal government to be sold,” (National Review, 2016). 

What can we do to stop this?

Many senators in key re-election races throughout the west, and across the country, rely on public lands voters. This puts those senators in a tricky position knowing that they will let those voters down if they confirm Pendley right before the November election. We can act now to put pressure on our senators, and let them know that we see Pendley as unfit to lead the BLM.

Stand up for the National Environmental Policy Act!

WHAT IS NEPA?

For 50 years, the National Environmental Policy Act (“NEPA”) has provided important guardrails that protect the environment, cultural resources, and public health, but the current administration is attempting to overhaul the law in a way that will provide benefits to big polluters by severely limiting environmental reviews, curtailing public comment, and allowing industry to conduct their own impact statements - introducing bias into federal decision making. Perhaps most concerning is the removal of the indirect and cumulative effects analysis which requires the federal government to account for their impact on climate change.

NEPA is a bedrock environmental law that was built to provide government oversight in a system that otherwise affords the government ample discretion. It’s important we oppose revisions to NEPA and fight to maintain science and public comment in federal decision making.

ACT NOW TO PROTECT NEPA

Great American Outdoors Act Passes in the Senate!

Today, the Senate took its final vote on the Great American Outdoors Act and passed the bill 73 to 25. The outdoor community has been instrumental in getting the bill passed and should celebrate this victory! The AAC is extremely grateful to everyone who took action to support the Great American Outdoors Act.

“Fair and equitable access to community parks, green spaces, and public lands should be afforded to all, and those outdoor spaces need to be well resourced and protected. The GAOA is a big step in the right direction for public land conservation.” Taylor Luneau, AAC Policy Manager

The Great American Outdoors Act means billions of dollars in funding for trails, parks, and public lands and waters across the country. It includes permanent funding for the Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) and funding for the maintenance backlog on National Parks, National Forest, and other public lands. In total, the bill means as much as $2.8 billion a year will be made available to spend on public lands, outdoor recreation, maintenance and restoration, and new green spaces.

ask your representatives in the house to support the gaoa today with the tool below

While this is a big win, our work is not done. The bill will now travel to the House, where lawmakers need to pass an identical version before it goes on to the President’s desk for approval.

Please send a message to your Representatives to vote YES.

It is also important to hold our lawmakers accountable.
The following Senators voted “NO” on this historic public lands package:

Kennedy (R-LA)
Lankford (R-OK)
Lee (R-UT)
Moran (R-KS)
Paul (R-KY)
Risch (R-ID)
Romney (R-UT)
Rounds (R-SD)
Sasse (R-NE)
Scott (R-FL)
Shelby (R-AL)
Toomey (R-PA)

Barrasso (R-WY)
Blackburn (R-TN)
Braun (R-IN)
Cassidy (R-LA)
Cornyn (R-TX)
Crapo (R-ID)
Cruz (R-TX)
Enzi (R-WY)
Fischer (R-NE)
Hawley (R-MO)
Hyde-Smith (R-MS)
Inhofe (R-OK)
Johnson (R-WI)

Use the tool below to send a quick thank you note to your Senators if they voted yes (it will automatically update to express disappointment if they voted no)

Climbers Act: Support the Great American Outdoors Act Today!

What is the Great American Outdoors Act?

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Remember this past spring when President Trump tweeted in support of a conservation based bill and that Bill made the headlines? That Bill, The Great American Outdoors Act (S. 3422) is back and hitting the senate floor next week. Below we provide a few important facts about what this historic, bi-partisan public lands bill includes, followed by an opportunity to ACT Now!

If the COVID-19 crisis has taught climbers, public lands employees, and local governments anything, it’s that now, more than ever, millions of Americans are looking for opportunities to get outside. For many, the outdoors offer an escape from their daily lives, and deem their recreation time as critical to supporting mental and physical health.

Additionally, as National Parks begin their phased reopening, and local governments consider it safe to once again seek-out outdoor recreation pursuits, it’s important to remember that public lands serve as a major economic stimulus for the country. As we collectively recover from the economic downturn caused by the outbreak of COVID-19, the GAOA has the potential to assist us by providing opportunities for new jobs and diversified streams of income, by addressing the need for recreation resource development and infrastructure repairs.

Click this image to write your representatives!

Click this image to write your representatives!

While this bill has garnered bi-partisan support in the Senate, it’s still not guaranteed to become law. After its Senate vote, the bill will travel to the House floor for a vote. We need climbers to come together and raise their voices in support of the Great American Outdoors Act. Tell your Senators to vote YES for this Bill, and follow up with your representatives in the House to support the legislation. Will you act with us today?


THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB CELEBRATES A YEAR OF CLIMATE ADVOCACY

Policy Manager Taylor Luneau Leads out of the ice cave on Mindbender at Lake Willoughby while belayed by IFMGA mountain guide Kel Rossiter. Photo Credit: Alden Pellet

Policy Manager Taylor Luneau Leads out of the ice cave on Mindbender at Lake Willoughby while belayed by IFMGA mountain guide Kel Rossiter. Photo Credit: Alden Pellet

THE AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB CELEBRATES A YEAR OF CLIMATE ADVOCACY

The American Alpine Club is swiftly approaching its one year anniversary of the Climbers for Climate campaign. After sifting through over 5,000 survey results in 2019, it became clear - climbers care deeply about the issue of climate change. Survey responses indicated that our community is concerned about the impact of climate change on our climbing landscapes, communities, and the outdoor recreation economy. We, as an organization, decided that it was time to take action. We heard you.

On June 1st, 2019, we released AAC’s first official policy position statement on climate change. Using responses derived from member surveys, scientific research, and AAC mission as a guide, we created a comprehensive document that outlines AAC’s climate action items on an internal, national, and global level. 

What have we accomplished?

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  • Created a Climate Change Task Force consisting of leading researchers who provide AAC with evidence-based guidance for how the policy team decides where to focus our advocacy work.

  • Advocated for legislation and policies that mitigate climate change. During Climb the Hill we asked representatives to regulate and reduce carbon pollution and to support a plan to regulate carbon pollution that reduces burdens on low-income communities while mitigating the effects on climate change. 

    • Bills we advocated for: Methane Waste Prevention Act of 2019 (HR 2711), The Climate Action Now Act (HR 9), and The Arctic Cultural and Coastal Plain Protection Act (HR1146).

  • Launched research projects focused on measuring the impact of climate change on the winter climbing environments and the outdoor recreation economy.

  • Created meaningful partnerships with organizations working to push the needle on climate, like Protect our Winters, Winter Wildlands Alliance, and Outdoor Alliance.

Climbers are deeply connected to the outdoors and are credible witnesses to the effect climate change has on climbing landscapes and communities around the world. 

Thank you for standing up as a community to

demand climate action. 

Your support gave us the strength to start our work on climate. And, in the coming year, we’ll use your feedback and what we’ve learned over the past year as a lens to push forward on our commitments, further develop policy campaigns, and develop an updated strategic plan for the AAC Policy department.


We heard you then, and we hear you now. Let’s continue to push for action on climate!


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POLICY UPDATES IN THE ERA OF COVID

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COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

Read the full article to find out about the issues to have on your radar.

Policy updates in the era of COVID

COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

All government efforts should be focused on the current crisis and ensuring that every American is supported throughout. 

While many members of Congress have called for a halt to actions such as the proposed changes to the regulations implementing the National Environmental Policy Act, the administration seems to be pushing their “energy dominance” agenda forward. This may have to do with fast approaching deadlines imposed by the Congressional Review Act, a law that could allow the next administration to erase any rule or regulation implemented later this year. 

The American Alpine Club has put our outdoor endeavors on hold temporarily, but we’re still keeping an eye on what’s happening behind the scenes. We want to distill some of what we’ve seen to catch you up to speed.

ISSUES TO HAVE ON YOUR RADAR

Suspect candidates continue being placed in high-ranking land management positions

Department of the Interior Secretary David Bernhardt—a former lobbyist for oil, gas, and agricultural industries–is in charge of managing 700 million acres of American public lands. Among his many responsibilities are to oversee public land managers at agencies like the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) where in January, he extended the tenure of Director to a person who expressed anti-public lands ideology in the past and was not formally confirmed by the typical process in the Senate. Most recently, Bernhardt appointed Edward Keable, a longtime associate of Bernhardt’s, to oversee Grand Canyon National Park (GCNP) as Superintendent. Keable’s lack of formal experience within the National Park Service (NPS) is concerning at a time when the GCNP faces continued threats of uranium mining and a controversial development project on the Park’s iconic South Rim—a project that Bernhardt’s old lobbying firm strongly supports. Not only does this appointment take the opportunity away from qualified NPS career employees, but it yet again demonstrates the current administration's lack of commitment to protecting public lands by undermining leadership positions at land management agencies.

National Park Fees were waived before more than half of Parks close their gates

While many National Parks and other public lands have since decided to shut their gates in order to maintain social distancing orders, protect their staff, and reduce crowding—a responsible move that should be commended—Secretary Bernhardt’s initial response to the COVID pandemic was to waive all national parks fees and leave the parks open. Similar to the government shutdown of 2019, National Parks were inundated with visitors ready to explore the nation’s public lands. Typically, these visitation numbers and new visitor groups would be celebrated. However, risk of exposure to the novel coronavirus amongst park employees and gateway communities led many towns and counties to request the closure of their nearby public lands. At this point more than half of the 62 National Parks have closed their gates to the public.

The EPA is loosening its hold on critical environmental standards

The EPA decided to suspend enforcement on various environmental laws allowing companies to not satisfy important health and environmental standards during the COVID-19 pandemic. While the policy change is temporary, and the “EPA will assess the continued need for and scope of this temporary policy on a regular basis”, there is no end date in sight as the pandemic presses on. Vague language encouraging entities to “make every effort to comply with environmental compliance obligations” amounts essentially to a massive hall pass for dirty corporations who are no longer required by the EPA to monitor their pollution. Without clear understanding on when the COVID pandemic will end, it is highly irresponsible for the EPA to allow industry to utilize the pandemic as a free pass.

Agency rulemaking charges forward amidst calls from Congress to stop

New research from the Center for Western Priorities found that the Interior Department executed 57 separate policy actions unrelated to COVID-19, occurring after President Trump signed the first emergency Coronavirus bill on March 6th. Many of these decisions resulted in the expansion of oil and gas leases, removal of protections for wildlife, or increased mining operations across the country. Despite numerous requests from members of Congress and State officials for Secretary Bernhardt to suspend rulemakings during the pandemic, it appears the Interior has opted to push through policy with limited public input. Americans should not be required to find and comment on rulemakings when they are experiencing such upheaval in their daily lives. 

CEQ and USFS continue to chip away at NEPA

The National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), widely regarded as the “Magna Carta” of environmental law, has been under relentless attack over the past year. You may recall this past summer the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) was considering sweeping changes to how it implements NEPA that would drastically limit engagement on up to 93% of USFS projects. More recently, the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) is attempting to rewrite the rules that implement NEPA. The proposed rule would drastically restrict public engagement in future environmental analysis, limit the scope of environmental reviews, and cut out important tools for combating climate change. Both the USFS and CEQ are working through their revisions now, and the AAC and our partners are keeping a close eye on their progress. It’s important to stay vigilant at times when the Federal government seems to be limiting important checks and balances.

SOME GOOD NEWS

Okay, that was heavy and we get there’s no absence of stress inducing news right now. So, to leave things on a high-note, here are a couple golden nuggets to celebrate.

The Great American Outdoors Act gets a look

You may recall back in early March (what feels like a lifetime ago) when the President called on Congress to fund public lands, kicking off a bi-partisan package called The Great American Outdoors Act (GAOA). The bill includes all sorts of good things that we, and out partners at the Outdoor Alliance, have been advocating for. Things like permanent funding for the LWCF and addressing maintenance backlogs on public lands through the Restore our Parks Act. Congress is rightly focused on addressing the coronavirus response but at some point in the future, they’ll turn their attention to infrastructure bills like GAOA to help the country rebuild. In the meantime, you can learn more about GAOA and write your lawmakers in support of the package. Expect to hear more from us on this package soon.

The 50th Anniversary of Earth Day is around the corner

While the typical celebrations and rallies for Earth Day won't be happening in person this year, many organizations are bringing their efforts online. Check out the Digital Earth Day events happening all over the globe! The first earth day in 1970 was propagated due to poor air and water quality across the country (not to mention that some rivers were literally on fire!). Due to the incredible advocacy of people at all levels of government, our nation has made incredible strides in environmental conservation. Take a moment to celebrate our progress as environmental advocates on April 22.

Photo Credit: Amelia Howe

Speak up by March 10 to protect The National Environmental Policy Act

Recently, the Trump Administration announced a plan to rewrite the rules for how a bedrock environmental law called the National Environmental Policy Act is implemented. The rule changes would restrict public engagement in federal projects and limit the scope of environmental review for development projects on public lands and waters. More importantly, the rule changes would eliminate what is known as the cumulative impacts analysis, which has historically required the government to consider the effects of their decisions on the climate.

The Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) held a public hearing in Denver at the EPA Region 8 headquarters where the 100 or so speaking slots filled in under four minutes! AAC Policy Manager Taylor Luneau provided testimony on behalf of the human-powered recreation community, saying:

“At its core, NEPA mandates informed decision making, based on sound science and requires that, to the fullest extent possible, all agencies of the federal government take a hard look at environmental consequences prior to issuing a decision. NEPA declares a broad commitment to protecting and promoting environmental quality and the CEQ rules are influential in shaping agency implementation of the statute.”

NEPA is an essential pathway for the outdoor recreation community to engage in public land management and these changes will limit our ability to do just that. The CEQ will be accepting public comment on their revisions to NEPA until March 10. Please take a moment to let the CEQ know that we oppose these changes in the brief action alert below.

Policy Manager Taylor Luneau providing his testimony on the proposed changes to the CEQ implementation of NEPA at the EPA Region 8 Headquarters in Denver, CO.

Protecting America's Wilderness Act Passed in the House!

The AAC celebrates the passing through the House of the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act (H.R. 2546) and strongly supports the Act as it moves to the Senate floor. This impressive public lands package combines six bills, collectively protecting 1.3 million acres of land and more than 1200 river miles in the Wild Olympics in Washington, the central coast and Redwoods in California, and Wilderness areas throughout Colorado. It defends outdoor recreation opportunities, safeguards water resources, protects public lands, and supports the multibillion dollar outdoor recreation economy. The land  protections in the act prohibit logging, mining, and drilling, in certain key landscapes and serves as a key climate change mitigation tactic. Thank you Rep. Diana DeGette for being a champion of this legislation, and thanks to all other representatives who supported this act. The climbing community is hopeful that the bill will successfully navigate the Senate in order to place a value on wilderness, and protect these indispensable lands and waterways for generations to come. 

Please join the AAC and the Outdoor Alliance in thanking your representatives for voting to advance this bill. Stay tuned for more information and actions as the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act makes its way to the senate floor. 

Montana Hill to Crag - Climbing Ice with Public Land Advocates

The American Alpine Club hosted their 5th Hill to Crag, and the FIRST ice climbing event this past weekend! We were incredibly fortunate to partner with the Bozeman Ice Festival and spotlight not only the event itself but the beauty and grandeur of Hyalite Canyon.

Hill to Crag is a unique opportunity to bring together legislators, staffers, outdoor recreation influencers, and veterans to discuss and share information in an exciting way - Climbing! Participants had the opportunity to get on the ice with some of America’s foremost Alpinists, as well as Service members who have a passion for the outdoors.

Among other things, we discussed Veteran issues, the impact of outdoor recreation on the economy, and access to public lands to support a healthy economy and Veteran therapy. We were joined by Rachel Vandervoort, Director of the Montana Office of Outdoor Recreation and spoke at length about the amazing climbing resources in Southwest Montana, and elsewhere in the state.

We were also joined by Zoe Bommarito and Darla Cotton from the National Forest Foundation, who experienced their first time climbing ever! Nearly 34% of climbing in the United States lies on Forest Service lands - that’s more than any other agency public lands. It was great to connect some of the stewards of these lands with climbing for the first time and talk about the importance of National Forests everywhere to the climbing community.

A big thanks to Joe Josephson, Conrad Anker and Graham Zimmerman for showing our crew around the canyon, putting up ropes, and teaching climbing movement. These folks have contributed in so many ways to the climbing community and we were grateful to have them in attendance. Also, thank you to all of the service members who attended. We hope to continue sharing climbing and public lands with active and veteran military communities across the country. A final and important thanks to our sponsors for the event, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Cilogear, and Patagonia!

Photo Credit: Joshua Murdock and Taylor Luneau

What's Happening To The Cryosphere? A Review Of The Recent IPCC Report.

Photo courtesy of Wilmer Sanchez Rodrigues, 2019 AAC research grant awardee. Photo taken while conducting research in Peru with the American Climber Science Program.

By Marca Hagenstad

Last fall in Innsbruck, Austria I presented the results of research I conducted with Protect Our Winters (POW) on the economics of snow sports at the International Snow Science Workshop. There, I met a French snow scientist who asked me to join his team as a contributing author on a chapter on High Mountain Areas in IPCC’s next research effort. The IPCC Special Report on Oceans and the Cryosphere came out this September, and I wanted to highlight some of its main findings. While I am a social scientist, specializing in circular economies, I’ve attempted to summarize the climate science as well, to help ensure the information is absorbed by a larger audience.

“Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works.”

Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works. I want to acknowledge this and distill the report down into digestible chunks that various communities can relate to. For the AAC, distributing information on the alpine environment makes sense. We are all aware of the changes we have seen in the mountains–from rain in winter to shrinking glaciers. The report investigates how these collective changes are impacting our global environment. 

Impacts on the farthest corners of the Earth

 This is the first IPCC report to examine climate change impacts to the farthest corners of the Earth, from the highest alpine regions to the deepest oceans. The frozen part of the Earth is called the cryosphere, and includes ice, snow, glaciers, and permafrost. It is widespread in polar regions and high mountains. Frozen regions are thawing and impacts are far-reaching. Land and sea ice are melting at accelerating rates. There is rapid surface melt of glaciers and decline in snow cover, especially at lower elevations. Permafrost is melting, with temperatures increasing to record high levels.

 Shrinking glaciers and snow cover have many impacts to recreation. They pose challenges to winter recreationists and to ski resorts, forcing some resorts out of business and increasing financial risks, especially for lower-elevation resorts. Many resorts are responding by increasing snow-making capabilities, which may be effective for a while, but may not be feasible in the long term as temperatures exceed minimum temperatures needed for snowmaking. By 2050, only 10 to 13 out of 21 prior Olympic Winter Games locations are projected to have adequate snow reliability, depending on the emissions scenario. Cryosphere decline has also reduced opportunities for ice climbing.

In summer, cryosphere changes are impacting glacier-related activities such as hiking, skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. Hiker and climber safety is being compromised along established trails and common access routes. In response, several routes have been relocated and some ladders and fixed anchors have been installed. New opportunities are presented in some locations where visitors are attracted by ‘last chance’ opportunities to view a glacier or to view the loss of a glacier. Trekking in the Himalaya has been negatively affected and the reduced water availability affects the ability of hotels and campsites to serve visitors. 

 Permafrost holds double the amount of carbon currently in the atmosphere. As it thaws, enormous quantities of carbon and methane are released – we’re talking 10s to 100s of billions of tonnes of CO2 - which further contribute to global warming. Contaminants are also released, affecting water quality. Permafrost thaw is also affecting recreationists: rock falls on and off glaciers are increasingly observed, threatening the safety of hikers and mountaineers, especially in Switzerland and New Zealand. Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season. 

“Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season.”

The report concludes that the speed and intensity of the future impacts from ocean and cryosphere change depend critically on the quantities of greenhouse gas emissions we choose to continue to release. So, it is a positive that we actually have control over how severe the impacts of climate change will get. We will continue to experience significant changes, but impacts will be much less severe if emissions are significantly reduced. Reducing other pressures such as pollution and overfishing, and increasing habitat and wetland restoration can also ease impacts. Improving education and using scientific knowledge alongside local and Indigenous knowledge can support the development of solutions that help communities adapt to changes and respond to challenges ahead.

Marca Hagenstad is an economist with Circle Economics and a contributing author to the most recent Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report on the cryosphere. She also tests splitboards for Backcountry Magazine and teaches snow science with Winter Wildlands Alliance.

American Alpine Club Researchers

AAC Researchers are scholars and scientists who have conducted environmental research in part through AAC funding. These are their stories.

Past Award Recipients

Scott Braddock

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Climate impacts on the glaciers and wildlife of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, Chile

The primary goals of this project are to identify the dominant mechanism of tide-water glacier acceleration in the SPI, specifically Témpano and Bernardo Fjords (Figure 1), and to establish a working relationship with both local Chilean government (CONAF) and international (Round River Conservation Studies) organizations to continue this research theme into the future. This partnership will provide resources and logistical support as well as the opportunity to share equipment and data in the greater effort of understanding and conserving the SPI. In addition, we will have the opportunity to not only publish our findings in journals but also to share these findings with local communities and students (ages 8-21) through field trips, classroom visits and citizen-science efforts around the SPI. It is our hope that this interdisciplinary approach will help to inform and involve these communities to continue conservation and protection of national parks in Chile and build upon our research efforts in a collaborative nature.

Read Braddock’s full report here.

Anais Zimmer

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Future of Periglacial Landscapes: Alpine Ecosystems and Deglaciation in the Tropical Andes and French Alps

First, this research permits to understand the future of proglacial landscapes at a local scale to enhance decision-making and land use management, generating scientific reports for municipalities, regional or national governments. Second, this proposal aims to develop applied solutions to respond to actual and future problems in mountain regions. Our grazing experiment in Peru tests a local solution that can be implemented at a larger scale and in other mountain systems to respond to regional problems. Third, our results from both continents will advance complementary studies worldwide in such regions as the Central and Southern Andes, the Arctic and Scandinavian Mountains, the Himalayan region, and Africa.

In addition, this research provides the groundwork to create awareness and promote international policies for the conservation of deglaciated landscapes. We aim to influence the broader community of international organizations that work on conservation (such as the IUCN, UNESCO, Mountain Research Initiative, ICIMOD, The Nature Conservancy, among others) in a call for the protection and restoration of proglacial landscapes. Up until now, there is no specific effort on this.

(Photo by: Carlos Ly)

Read Anais’ Full Report Here

Martí March Salas

2018 Research Grant Recipient

The effect of rock climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation: Implementation of an innovative and comprehensive methodology in a wide geographical range

This project proposed to evaluate the effects of rock climbing on plant biodiversity in different locations with Mediterranean environmental conditions, one of the most widely distributed biomes around the world, including California, central Chile, Western Cape (South Africa), south of Australia, and the Mediterranean Basin. We conducted field-samplings in different regions along Spain, south of France, and California. This project provides a starting point for the study of the long-term effects of rock climbing on plant communities, and it was a first step for evaluate, for the first time, the effects of rock climbing in a wide geographic range.

Read Salas’ full report here.

Marie Faust

2018 Research Grant Recipient

Reproductive consequences of climate change-driven alterations in co-flowering between two subalpine plant species

In the summer of 2018, Faust conducted a short-term field experiment to investigate the effects of climate-driven shifts in co-flowering between Linum lewisii and Potentilla pulcherrima. She hoped to answer these questions: Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering between Linum and Potentilla affect fruit and seed set in Linum? Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering affect interspecific competition for pollinator services between Linum and Potentilla? Read her report and find her answers here.

Alison Criscitiello

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Histories of Arctic climate and environmental contaminants from a shallow ice core, Mt. Oxford, Ellesmere Island

This project involved the drilling of a new ice core on the plateau of Mt. Oxford, a peak on northern Ellesmere Island, to investigate Arctic Ocean sea-ice variability as well as climate and pollutant histories in this region of the Arctic. The records from this new ice core will be compared to records from other ice cores to offer new insights into the spatial variations in accumulation, moisture source, contamination, and marine aerosol deposition across the eastern Canadian high Arctic. Read more here.

Anya Tyson

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The Clark's Nutcracker Project: Engaging young adventurers in citizen science.

The whitebark pine is a high-elevation tree entirely dependent upon the Clark's nutcracker to disperse its seeds, and this tree species has suffered greatly from an invasive fungus and a native bark beetle. This research utilized the observation powers of young adventurers to collect data on whitebark pine and Clark's nutcrackers during wilderness expeditions across four remote mountain ranges in Wyoming and Montana. Read more here.

Emily Schultz

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The importance of within-patch heterogeneity for population dynamics of a high elevation pine.

With mountainous regions across the globe being strongly affected by climate change, it is important to develop reliable models for characterizing how mountain species are affected by environmental variation. This research used new and existing data for whitebark pine in the Elkhorn Mountains of Oregon to test whether within-population variation, such as elevation gradients, can change predictions for the persistence of this species. Read more here.

Kate McHugh

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications in the National Park Service

What makes climbing in wilderness unique? How can climbing management practices honor local values and uphold wilderness ideals? McHugh’s study addresses the need to characterize the wilderness climbing resource in National Parks so that it may be appropriately monitored and managed. Deliverables of the research include, first; a critical review of literature, law, policy, and agency practices, and second; the development of tools to describe and define the wilderness climbing resource and a monitoring protocol to document change over time. Research is in-progress; a final report will be posted upon completion.

Nathalie Chardon

2016 and 2017 Research Grant Recipient

Quantifying the Effects of Anthropogenic Disturbance on Alpine Flora on Colorado's 14'ers

Hiking on Colorado's tallest peaks is rapidly increasing in popularity, yet the effects of this increase are poorly understood. This study integrates a two year field study with ecological modeling techniques to elucidate how these fragile alpine ecosystems are responding to this pressure. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Nathalie on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

Rachael Mallon

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Biogeography of Snow Algae Communities in the Pacific Northwest

The pink or "watermelon" snow seen occasionally in alpine environments is indicative of the presence of snow algae, one of the many species inhabiting biodiverse alpine ecosystems. The algae's pigmentation increases snow melting, making research into the snow algae populations critical to climate change models. This researcher collected samples from Oregon and Washington for molecular analysis to better understand variability across snow algae communities in the Pacific Northwest. Read more here.

The National Renewable Energy Lab wrote a piece about Rachel’s work. Read it here.

Rebecca Finger

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Limitations to shrub expansion in a warmer Arctic

The warming Arctic is experiencing increases in plant growing season length, but some regions have seen a decline in tundra plant growth while others have experienced increased tundra plant growth. This research examined potential landscape changes over the last fifty years in West Greenland and studied abiotic and biotic controls on modern-day shrub growth and distribution. Read more here.

Alice Hill

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Dissecting River Flow: Quantifying How Melting Glaciers and Snow Impact Central Asian Water Stress

This research took place over a 500 km stretch of the Naryn River draining the western flanks for the Tien Shan Mountains in Kyrgyzstan. The work aims to quantify the relative source water contribution from snow, ice, groundwater, and rain to lowland river flow in an arid Central Asian catchment to better understand potential future flow vulnerabilities across this volatile region. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Alice on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

Jonathan Burton

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing Risk of Glacial Outburst Flooding from the Imja Lake, Nepal

Located southeast of Mt. Everest, The Imja Lake is dammed by the terminal moraine of the Imja Glacier. As melt water from the glacier causes the Imja Lake to grow, the risk of catastrophic flooding to the down-stream communities grows. This study measured glacial dimensions, glacial retreat and lake depth over several years to model future glacial dynamics and the risk of outburst flooding. Read more here.

Katie Epstein & Jessica DiCarlo

2016 Research Grant Recipients

Surveying Adaptation and Recovery in Mountain Farming Communities in Nepal After the 2015 Earthquakes

Nepal is still recuperating from the series of earthquakes that occurred early in 2015. In this study, households in farming communities in the mountainous district of Dolakha are interviewed and surveyed. Results indicate that subsistence agricultural systems were heavily impacted in the earthquakes and that household perceptions of recovery are highly differentiated, despite largely uniform and widespread damages across study sites. Read more here.

Read Epstein and DiCarlo's article in Ecology and Society here. They have also published this research in Case Studies in the Environment and Ambio: A Journal of the Human Environment.

Nathan Fry

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Evaluating Efficacy of Outdoor Education in Implementing Social-Ecological System Behavior in the Kyrgyz Republic

The purpose of this project is to create an ecological leadership curriculum that effectively combines “best practices” in adventure leadership and environmental education and apply the curriculum to the American University of Central Asia’s pilot Ecological Leadership Program. Read more here.

Grant Lipman

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Analyzing the Efficacy of a New Potential Acute Mountain Sickness Medication

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a condition often triggered by rapidly ascending to a higher elevation, without proper acclimatization. The purpose of this trial is to investigate the usefulness of the drug budesonide as a prevention/treatment medication for AMS. Results are compared to the standard AMS treatment: acetazolamide. Read more here.

Kristin Schild

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Constraining a Prominent Driver in Glacier Terminus Stability from the Tidewater Glacier Kronebreen to Kongsfjorden, Svalbard

The Kronebreen glacier in Svlabard, Norway, was the prime location for this research. The work aims to study water samples collected at the glacier to quantify the magnitude and variation of glacier-driven fjord circulation in order to make more accurate predictions about the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Kristin on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

Robin Thomas

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Relative Dating of Glacier Moraines in the Cordillera Blanca

Black carbon is believed to be contributing to climate change by absorbing sunlight and released as heat when deposited on the Earth’s surface. The black carbon snow sampling project involved climbing up onto glaciers in Peru to collect snow samples and measuring the reflectivity of the snow. This is just one of the several studies conducted with the help of this award. Read more here.

Tim Graham

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing the Impacts of Introduced Mountain Goats on La Sal Mountain Alpine Arthropod Communities

Non-native animal species can threaten sensitive ecosystems. Recently, 35 non-native mountain goats were brought to the La Sal Mountains along the Utah/Colorado border. This research investigates the consequences of that introduction by surveying arthropod communities before and after the mountain goats were brought to the area. Read more here.

Trevor Bloom

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Investigating the Impact of Climate Change and Wildfire on High Elevation Wildflower Saxifraga Austromontana in the Rocky Mountains

High elevation ecosystems are experiencing the impact of climate change with many species moving up North in search of cooler climates. This study focuses specifically on the Saxifraga austromontana (spotted saxifrage) and seeks answers on how the species will fare under the impact of climate change and increased fire frequency. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Trevor on climate change, his research and climbing. Read the interview here.

Facilitating Outdoor Access: The SOAR Act

During Climb the Hill this year Matt Wade, AMGA’s Advocacy and Policy Director, testified in support of the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation, commonly known as the SOAR Act (S. 1665, HR 3879). Outside Magazine has a great piece that goes into the specifics of this bill. In short, the SOAR Act will benefit the outdoor recreation community by improving and expediting the permitting process for guides and outfitters who utilize public lands for programming. This will ultimately aid in enhancing and diversifying access in the outdoors. We chatted with Matt after his testimony and he shared some beta on what it is like to speak up for outdoor recreation in front of the House Natural Resources subcommittee, and how constituents can help the fight at home.

Interview with matt wade

Q: Why did you want to testify on behalf of the SOAR Act? What drives you to advocate for this bill? 
A: Many people learn to climb with an instructor or guide and problems in the outfitter-guide permitting system are preventing people from having that opportunity. Youth camps are waiting years for a permit request to be approved, guides have to travel abroad to climb with their clients because they can’t get permits at home, and organizations that do have permits have to deal with an enormous amount of unnecessary red tape. There is very real, urgent need for change.

Q: What will the passing of this legislation mean for the climbing/greater outdoor recreation community?
A: If the SOAR Act is passed into law it will significantly improve opportunities for people from all walks of life to take a climbing class, attend a mountaineering camp, or hire a guide to improve their skills. It will also reduce overhead and administration for the agencies, which is much needed as more and more agency staff time is getting diverted to fire suppression. Passage of the bill will be a win-win across the outdoor recreation space. 

Q: How did it feel testifying to the committee?
A: It was great. I really enjoyed talking with the other witnesses and it was an honor to be of service to the Committee staff and members of Congress as they are contemplating this important legislation. I also felt a tangible sense of community support and encouragement from the many Climb the Hill attendees in the audience! Thank you to all of you who came to the hearing to show your support!

Q: Where are we in the process of passing this legislation?
A: With this hearing we achieved a milestone in the legislative process and we can be proud of that, but there is still more work to do. Next, we need to advocate for a similar hearing in the Senate. Then the bill will go through “markup” which is the process of making amendments or changes. Finally, the bill will need to be voted on in both chambers. The process is more a marathon than a sprint but we have left the starting line at a good pace. Let’s keep the momentum going.  

Photo: AAC Member Ron Funderburke

Helping from home

When asked how folks back home can help push the SOAR Act forward, Matt shared some insights that can be used not only for the SOAR Act in isolation, but all legislation that will continue to protect climbing areas and access in perpetuity:

A: Contact your members of Congress and let them know these issues are important to you. If you have a personal story about a difficulty accessing public lands, share it with them. Personal stories from constituents are the single most compelling piece of evidence for legislation. After telling your story, ask them to cosponsor the SOAR Act.

The SOAR Act is widely supported across the aisle and is currently co-sponsored by fourteen members of the House and thirteen members of the Senate. Be sure to write your representatives to make sure they are supporting the SOAR Act.

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$10,000 Awarded in Grants to Replace Aging Bolts

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Photo: Craig Hoffman

Photo: Craig Hoffman

The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant award recipients. This grant program addresses the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

  • Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

  • Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

  • Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

  • Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

  • Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

  • New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

  • Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

  • Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

  • Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

  • Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

October 14, 2019, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its fifth year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at crags across the region, including Maple Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, and the Uinta Mountains. Old hardware will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SLCA’s Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative is one of the leading local climbing organization-led fixed anchor replacement programs in the country.

Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2020 and is striving to keep bad bolt reports in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.

Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

Rumney Climbers Association was awarded funding to replace aging expansion bolts at several crags located at the popular Rumney climbing area. RCA’s efforts are widespread and ongoing, but emphasis in the coming year will be placed on updating hardware at Orange Crush, New Wave, and Bonsai with 1/2” stainless steel glue-in bolts. 

Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Cooks Wall in Hanging Mountain State Park and Sauratown Mountain. CCC’s efforts will focus on replacing old 3/8” non-stainless wedge, sleeve, and drop-in anchors with new 1/2” stainless steel hardware.

Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in the next five years. ETCC has replaced 1,000 aging bolts in the past 17 months with new 1/2“ stainless anchors. This grant will help facilitate their ongoing effort to replace 4,000 aging bolts in the region.

New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was awarded funding to rebolt the popular Tattoo and Beer Walls. These areas provide the highest concentration of beginner sport routes in the New River Gorge.

Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to rebolt Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon and the Darkside at Shelf Road. The BCC will purchase 200 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts, 160 Wave Bolts, and 40 lower-off anchor set-ups to address aging hardware at these two popular crags.

Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group (SoCo CRAG) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at crags in the Newlin Creek area of the Wet Mountains in southern Colorado. Efforts will focus on installing new 1/2“ stainless hardware and modern hangers on routes currently equipped with homemade hangers and aging bolts.

Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

Tahoe Climbers Coalition (TCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware around the Tahoe Basin. As a newly formed local climbing organization, TCC’s efforts will bolster ongoing replacement efforts in the region, helping to ensure climbing in the Tahoe Basin remains accessible and bad bolts are replaced in a timely manner.

Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at The Pond in Queen Creek Canyon. CABRP will replace 720 aging, rusty bolts with new stainless steel glue-in bolts. CABRP will also replace top anchor hardware on all routes with new quick links and top anchor hooks, addressing concerns around rusty, loose, and inferior hardware at the crag.

Receding Glaciers on Mont Blanc Results in Closures for Italian Side

Have you ever dreamed of climbing mixed routes on the Mont Blanc massif? Come back another time, it is closed, or at least a few roads to access much of the Northwestern side of the iconic massif are. Why is this infamous alpine area closing its doors on the Italian side? It’s due to the rapid movement, and a threatening collapse of the Planpincieux glacier. Italy’s Minister of the Environment Sergio Costa claims climate change is to blame, and states that the emergency indicates “the necessity and urgency of strong and coordinated action for the climate, to prevent extreme events that risk dramatic consequences.” 

The Planpincieux glacier resides on the Mont Blanc Massif and spreads across the borders of Italy, France, and Switzerland. This glacier is actively monitored by the Safe Mountain Foundation, and officials claim that “unusually high temperatures during August and September accelerated the ice melt.” According to Time, the glacier “which spreads 512 square miles acorss the mountain, has been moving up to 20 inches a day,” and is “at risk of collapse” threatening the residents of Courmayeur, an alpine town that rests in the valley below the glacier. 

Paralleling this development in the Alps is the release of the most recent United Nations IPCC report on Wednesday, September 24th. The report entitled, “Special Report on the Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate” (SROCC) predicts a rapid increase of glacial melting, similar to what is happening on Planpincieux. The SROCC warns that “human communities in close connection with polar areas and high mountains are particularly exposed” to melting glaciers. Th report also projects glacial mass and snow cover loss in non-polar regions like central Europe due to the impacts of climate change, stating that “by 2100, 80% of their current glacier mass may disappear.” Perhaps the most jarring statistic of all is the re-affirmation of findings from the IPCC’s Fifth Assessment Report  which predicted with high confidence that due to a “pronounced imbalance” between current glacier mass and climate, glaciers will continue to melt even with no further climate change.

The findings of these reports and many others are alarming. These high mountain regions do not serve only as climbing and mountaineering areas for us to enjoy, but as homes and communities for people living in the high alpine - approximately one-tenth of the world’s population. Seeing the real impact that climate change is having on pristine mountain environments combined with the scientific data provided by the SROCC should serve as a wakeup call for action from global leaders.