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Voices From The Guiding Community

Photo by Jeremiah Watt.

Guides are often the unsung heroes of the climbing community, and being able to offer guiding services is not as simple as it seems. Tune in to hear straight from guides from across the country about how permitting is impacting the guiding landscape. 

Among others, AMGA guide Dale Remsberg weighs in: “For me as an AMGA/IFMGA guide, access to varied terrain is what gives the ability to work and have a successful career. Some of the new legislation could greatly help with guide mobility and the ability to take our guests to terrain that is best for them or the conditions. Currently with access being so restricted it’s difficult to navigate poor conditions and provide quality experiences for our guests.”

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An Interview With: Phil Powers

Photo by Jeremiah Watt.

Phil Powers is the former CEO of the AAC, owner of The Mountain Guides in Jackson, WY, and has 40+ years of guiding experience. He’s seen guiding change and grow, and he knows what’s at stake with the passage of legislation like AORA and the PARC Act. We sat down with Powers to get a more in-depth look at the guiding landscape, and to understand how critical AORA and the PARC Act are to guides and the climbing community as a whole. His tangible details are a really compelling look at why all climbers should be activating to advocate for these bills!

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An Interview With: Patrick Harrington

Patrick Harrington is the manager of the Wyoming Office of Outdoor Recreation. We sat down with Harrington to dig into why AORA is imperative legislation to pass for all outdoor recreationists, and for sustaining the outdoor recreation economy at large. With his experience managing and advocating for recreation in one of the most sought after locations for US sport and adventure climbing, we learned a lot about how legislation like AORA can have a reverberating impact: on rural getaway communities, on the accessibility of climbing, on the economics of guiding, and more. 

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PROTECT: The New Bolt Wars? Protecting America's Rock Climbing in Wilderness

Are you up to date on what’s at stake in American Wilderness climbing?

Climbing in America’s Wilderness areas—places like Joshua Tree, Yosemite, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and so many other iconic climbing areas—is under threat. The bolting wars of old have been revived, but with a new inflection. It’s no longer sport climbers and trad climbers duking it out. Federal land managers feel cornered by increased usage on our public lands...and are arguing its necessary to ban the use of fixed anchors. But this is in conflict with climbers, who know that fixed anchors have always been allowed in Wilderness and prohibiting them will not resolve this issue, but only present new ones. While normally climbers and land managers are partners, this disagreement over fixed anchors in Wilderness is a strong threat to our ability to work together. So what exactly is this bolting war about, and what’s at stake here?

In this episode, the AAC sat down with Erik Murdock, the Vice President of Policy & Government Affairs at Access Fund, to talk about the nitty gritty details of this critical conversation about bolting and fixed anchors in Wilderness. We also cover the Protect America’s Rock Climbing Act (or PARC Act), which will help climbers preserve climbing in Wilderness as it has been historically protected, and continue to partner with land managers to conserve the public lands we all love.

Take Action! Help us protect Wilderness Climbing!

Get your legislators to support the PARC Act and protect Wilderness climbing!


The American Alpine Club Announces 2023 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Recipients

A trail worker from Save Mount Diablo. Photo provided by Save Mount Diablo.

April 2023

The American Alpine Club and REI are pleased to announce the 2023 Cornerstone Grant recipients. The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant was formally launched in 2011 to fund projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources nationwide. Seven local climbing organizations (LCOs), land managers and agencies, nonprofits, and individuals have been awarded a total of $25,000 for this grant cycle, for projects such as building or improving trail networks to climbing areas; establishing new toilet facilities and signage at trailheads; and deploying a variety of community groups for clean-up and graffiti removal at local crags. 

Summersville Lake, West Virginia.

New River Alliance of Climbers will receive $5,000 for the Whippoorwill Restoration Project in Summersville Lake, West Virginia. All funds will go towards purchasing materials needed to complete the project: gabions, stone stair treads, split rail fence, and seeds for re-vegetation.

Carolina Climbers Coalition will receive $4,000 for the Table Rock Climbers Trail Rehabilitation in Table Rock, Linville Gorge, North Carolina. Funds will be used to rehabilitate the Table Rock Climbers Trail, a new NEPA-approved trail to a historical climbing area.

Northwest Montana Climbers Coalition will receive $1,000 for the Stone Hill Signage Project in Lake Koocanusa, Montana. Funds will be used for signage materials and installation tools.

Workers from the Stone Hill Trail Network Project doing restoration work. Photo provided by Stone Hill Trail Network.

Black Folx Rock will receive $5,000 for the Diversity in Conservation Project in Papago Park, Arizona. Funds will be used to create a trail, restoration, clean-up, signage, bridge creation, and erosion reduction for a heavily used rock climbing area. 

Save Mount Diablo will receive $5,000 for the Pine Canyon Cleanup & Mount Diablo Adopt-A-Crag at Mount Diablo State Park, California. Funds will be used for equipment rental, fuel for equipment, PPE for volunteer participants, materials and tools for graffiti and litter removal, and limited staff time.

Upper Peninsula Climbers' Coalition will receive $2,000 for the Slugg's Bluff restoration in Palmer, Michigan. Funds will be used for gravel, road grading, trail work, and fencing for the community garden.

Mount Diablo State Park, CA

Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition will receive $3,000 for a trail steward program in Farley Ledges in Erving, Massachusetts, Hanging Mountain in Sandisfield, MA, and other locations in Western MA. Funds from the AAC Cornerstone Grant will pay for training for trail leaders and volunteers, cover the cost of a volunteer tracking and waiver system, buy miscellaneous tools and materials, and pay the cost of a part-time paid operating executive to manage the program.

Applications for the Cornerstone Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through December 31. 

 

Contact:

Shane Johnson, Chief Marketing Officer: [email protected]

Eddie Espinosa, Community Programs Director: [email protected]

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All Aspects

From the AAC Policy Desk

This brief update from your AAC policy team covers lobbying on The Hill, the new make-up of Congress due to the midterms, and some bills that we’re prioritizing in our policy work this year. If you ever wonder….what is the AAC doing in the federal policy realm to help support public lands? This article gives you a quick update on our most recent efforts.

From Active Duty to Activism

The AAC’s New Government Affairs Liaison Flips the Script on Advocacy

By Gov’t Affairs Liason, Byron Harvison

“My journey to activism wasn’t really about me but rather about continued service to others. Climbing, a “past-time” that helped me discover who I was, became a passion. That passion enabled me to help other Veterans overcome hardship and ultimately led to a career in working on policy matters that impact climbers throughout the country. “ —Byron Harvison

Introducing our new Government Affairs Liaison! Joining the AAC’s policy team is Byron Harvison—a veteran, lawyer, and long-time volunteer with the American Alpine Club. In this article, he shares how he got involved with climbing advocacy, and how he’s seen it grow and explode throughout the years.

The Power of a Name: Protecting the Dolores River Canyon

by Sierra McGivney

PC: AAC Member John Fitzpatrick (Grumpyhighlander Photography)

“There’s a saying in Colorado that whiskey is for drinking and water is for fighting over,” says Widen.

The AAC sat down with Jeff Widen, an advocate behind the efforts to preserve Colorado’s Dolores River Canyon, to learn about the climbing, fishing, whitewater rafting and so much more that happens there, and why it needs to be protected as a National Conservation Area. This article delves into the complexities of preserving public land in a way that is helpful for all stakeholders, and what you can do to help preserve the Dolores River Canyon.

Gathering Place: Tommy Caldwell Reflects on Protecting Oak Flat

by Tommy Caldwell

PC: AAC Member Dawn Kish

“Climbers slipped on tattered Gramicci pants and duck taped down jackets, unzipped themselves from tents or crawled out of the back of pickup trucks. Like cattle coming in for their morning feed, everyone wandered down to the start line. It was 1994, and this ragtag crew represented America’s cutting edge. Despite its scrappy appearance, The Phoenix Bouldering Contest was the biggest bouldering competition in the world and the energy was buzzing. “ —Tommy Caldwell

In this article, Tommy Caldwell remembers the early days of outdoor comps at Oak Flat, AZ, and what it means to take action to protect the places we love. Tommy’s article explores what’s at stake in losing Oak Flat to copper mining, and what we as climbers can do to ensure Oak Flat is protected for the San Carlos Apache Tribe, for the sake of the environment, and for the classic boulders and climbing there.

Summit Register 007

In our most recent issue of the Summit Register, the AAC’s policy zine:

PC: AAC Member William Woodward

  1. Tommy Caldwell reflects on the old days of boulder comps at Oak Flat, and why climbers need to take action to permanently protect Oak Flat from a devastating mining operation;

  2. We cover the efforts advocates are taking to preserve the Dolores River Canyon for climbing, whitewater, fishing, and much more;

  3. And finally, Byron Harvison (the AAC’s new Gov’t Affairs Liason!) reflects on his journey from active duty to activism within the climbing community.

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Economic Impact Report: 2020 Ouray Ice Festival

PC: Laurel Myers. Climber: Taylor Luneau

Climbing, and outdoor recreation in general, has important (and often positive) impacts on local economies that are near destination climbing areas. Quantifying our economic impact as climbers can help us replicate these impacts across the country, and make sure recreation has positive impacts, even for those who aren’t outdoor recreationists themselves. Finally, economic impact studies like this one allow the AAC to communicate our political power to lawmakers when we are advocating for issues that matter to climbers.

Our Policy Director, Taylor Luneau, teamed up with leading researchers Dr. James Maples and Dr. Michael Bradley, who conduct economic impact studies and outdoor recreation research across the nation, to identify tangible impacts of ice climbers traveling to Ouray county. The AAC worked with Ouray Ice Park, Eastern Kentucky University, and The Center for Economic Development, Entrepreneurship, and Technology, to conduct this study. Dive in here, to explore this research that quantifies the economic impact of the 2020 Ouray Ice Festival on Ouray County.

Summary of Findings

This study examined the economic impact of the 2020 Ouray Ice Festival which occurred in Ouray, Colorado on January 23-26, 2020. In all, 5,000 persons participated in the event. Major findings of this study include:

1. Participants living outside Ouray County spent an estimated $808,359 in Ouray County while at the Ouray Ice Festival.

2. Participants living outside Ouray County generated $349,843 in labor income in Ouray County as a result of the Ouray Ice Festival.

3. Participants living outside Ouray County spent around $130 on day visits, while persons staying overnight spent an additional $96 on motels/hotels or $25 on cabin/AirBnB use.

4. Participants focused nearly all of their expenditures inside Ouray County rather than the surrounding area.

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Become an AAC Member or Renew Your membership today!

PROTECT: Vote the Crag this November

We’re sending it to the polls this midterm election….are you? In this mini-episode of the podcast, we sat down with the AAC’s Policy Director to discuss voting in the midterms this November, including important issues for climbers to consider, like public lands bills, climate change legislation, and judicial appointees. We keep it short and sweet since we know it can be overwhelming. So sit tight for the quick hits!

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Vote the Gym: The Climbing Wall Association Reveals the Policies that Impact Indoor Climbing

by Director of Standards and Regulatory Affairs at the Climbing Wall Association, Garnet Moore

AAC member and Twin Cities BIPOC Initiatives Chair Rodel Querubin

 

PROTECT: The Climber’s Advocacy Network

I’m just one person…what can I do?

Turns out, quite a lot—if you have the resources and support to join together with other climbers. That’s why we’ve created the Climber’s Advocacy Network (CAN).

GA CAN member, Reese Rogers

CO CAN member, Sam Masters

In this episode, we sat down with two individuals that love climbing—and just can’t stop themselves from getting involved in their climbing community. They have joined the Climber’s Advocacy Network and are advocating for issues that impact climbers near them. Sam, from the Colorado hub of CAN, and Reese, from the Georgia hub of CAN, discuss what motivates them and what they’ve been learning from participating in the Climber’s Advocacy Network. We also sat down with grassroots campaign consultant Skye Schell to help us contextualize the potential and possibility of the CAN within outdoor advocacy at large. Dive in and explore how climbers at the AAC are fighting the good fight to protect their local public lands and build equitable access to the outdoors.

American Alpine Club and Winter Wildlands Alliance Celebrate Restoration of Key Components to NEPA

Photo by @ofallnationsmedia


The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Winter Wildlands Alliance (WWA) are pleased to announce that the Biden Administration took an important step towards restoring critical parts of the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), a bedrock environmental law.

Over the past two years, our #ProtectNEPA campaign has fought to protect wild winter landscapes and climbing areas across the country. Together, we sued the Trump administration for gutting NEPA in 2020 and then petitioned the Biden administration in 2021 to take action to repair the law by restoring critical regulatory requirements that were removed in 2020.

The White House Council on Environmental Quality heard our requests, and began a two phase process to reverse the damaging 2020 changes to the regulations that implement NEPA. This week, the CEQ published a final “Phase 1” rule effectively overturning three parts of the 2020 Rule, restoring key pieces of NEPA and requiring that federal agencies:

  • Consider the direct, indirect, and cumulative effects of a proposed project, including an analysis of how greenhouse gas emissions from an action may impact climate change;

  • No longer prioritize the goals of an applicant over the public interest when developing the Purpose and Need or alternatives of a proposed action;

  • Give the public a greater voice in the environmental review process for projects on federal lands;

  • Consider the regulations as a “floor” and not a “ceiling” when considering the value of more protective regulations.

The final rule announced on Tuesday, April 19, 2022, will take effect on May 20, 2022, but it only restores some of the provisions from the original 1978 regulations. The AAC and WWA encourage the CEQ to act quickly in tackling Phase 2 of restoring NEPA, where they must consider how to correct the broader procedural changes to the regulations. We urge the CEQ to ensure that the voices of communities most impacted by environmental harm, as well as the commitments of the administration to address the climate crisis, are accurately reflected in their final rule.

Photo by Jeff Deikis

“This Phase 1 Rule is an important first step in restoring NEPA”, said Hilary Eisen, Policy Director with Winter Wildlands Alliance. “We look forward to continuing to work with the CEQ as they move forward into Phase 2, to ensure that NEPA continues to give the public a voice in federal decisions and provide environmental safeguards for generations to come.”   

“Efforts from the previous administration to dismantle NEPA left our public lands, communities and climate vulnerable to ill-informed and biased decision-making processes,” said Taylor Luneau, Policy Manager for the American Alpine Club. “This is a significant win for the outdoor recreation community and an important step towards restoring the strength and potential of NEPA to address our nation's most pressing environmental needs.”

We are grateful to the many thousands of outdoor advocates who took action to #ProtectNEPA and look forward to continuing to partner with the Biden Administration to ensure that the interests of the climbing and backcountry skiing communities remain front of mind in federal decision making.

Contact for more information:

Taylor Luneau, Policy Manager, American Alpine Club, [email protected]

Hilary Eisen, Policy Director, Winter Wildlands Alliance, [email protected]

Advocacy In Action: Reconciliation is Back!

In the midst of the action scoping out the exposure below. AAC member Savannah Cummins

By AAC Advocacy and Gov’t Affairs Manager, Amelia Howe

This article originally appeared in Summit Register 005.

I know what you are thinking, but no, you are not having a deja vu moment. There is momentum building behind the reconciliation package, but this time, it’s focused solely on climate and conservation investments. We need you and the collective climbing community to write to your lawmakers in support of these critical climate investments in order to get this passed and enacted into law as soon as possible.

The American Alpine Club and other organizations like the Outdoor Alliance spent a lot of time in 2021 educating our members and advocating for the passage of a major social spending package, better known as the Build Back Better Act. While the original package was full of things like universal pre-K and affordable healthcare, the AAC worked to support this package due to the myriad investments that would address the climate crisis and improve public lands infrastructure. Summit Register 004 contains an article outlining how this package fell apart right before the New Year due to Congress’ inability to reach a consensus surrounding the importance of these investments. This political rollercoaster led many to believe that there was no hope for the passage of Build Back Better. Now that lawmakers are back from winter break and diving into a midterm election season, it is clear that hope remains for important aspects of Build Back Better. There is especially exciting potential for the $555 billion to be invested in climate and public lands provisions.

Some of these provisions include efforts to:

+  Conserve threatened landscapes

+  Create climate adaptation plans within the Forest Service so they can better address how changing temperatures are impacting natural resources

+  Dedicate additional National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) resources for agencies

+  Better resource wildfire planning and response

+  Address and reform fossil fuel development processes on public lands

+  Fund climate resilience projects on public lands

+  Invest in urban parks and trail systems

+  Increase access to public lands and trails

+  Create a Civilian Climate Corps

PC: AAC member Calder Davey

Climate change and aging public lands infrastructure should be at the top of mind for climbers when it comes to issues to address and advocate for in 2022. From a climber’s perspective, changes in climate will undoubtedly impact access to climbing and will, in turn, negatively impact the recreation economy. Inconsistent and longer wildfire seasons impact access to outdoor climbing opportunities during the summer and fall, and ice routes that once were classic are now rarely seen. It is easy to identify how our collective inability to act on climate will impact the sport. But the impacts of climate change touch every aspect of life, and these impacts on climbing are only a small piece of why these investments are so important.

An investment of this nature could change the trajectory of the US’ response on climate change, and the impacts will be deeply felt at the local community level. If you are excited about the prospect of these critical investments in climate action and public lands restoration, this is the moment to let your lawmakers know.