CLIMBERS: TAKE ACTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUS

Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer a set of guiding principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

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Dear Friends, 

The COVID-19 pandemic is unprecedented and impacts us all. Our community must act thoughtfully to “flatten the curve” to reduce transmissions of the virus over time.

We are concerned about transmission of COVID-19 to rural or gateway communities. These remote towns often have limited access to medical facilities and their closely-knit, interconnected social structures are more prone to the spread of infection. 

Please keep places like Bishop, Fayetteville, Moab, Springdale, and Slade as safe as possible by limiting recreation-based travel at this time. If you have a trip planned, please reschedule until we are through this health emergency. This is not the time to head to the desert or rally to your favorite national park for “social distancing.” While outdoor time is necessary for each of us during this turbulent period, we need to stay local and limit our interaction with vulnerable communities.

 Consider also keeping outdoor objectives conservative to reduce the load on the medical system. Backcountry emergencies contribute to overloading hospitals and potential shortages of ventilators in intensive care units. As always, be safe out there and mindful of unnecessary risks.

Finally, we all should follow the directions outlined in the CDC’s guide on how to keep yourself and others safe from the virus. It’s necessary that we as a climbing community make decisions from the perspective of the most vulnerable people in our community.

The AAC is certain that the climbing community can be a part of the solution to COVID-19 by taking collective action now.

Respectfully, 

Your Club

PS—Learn about updates to our lodging facilities in light of COVID-19.

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The Greatest Benefit to Membership

During this unprecedented time of self-quarantines and social distancing many of us have found that we have some extra free time. Time to read. Time to watch movies. Time to plan for the next big trip when things return to normal. The American Alpine Club Library is currently closed to the public indefinitely to limit person to person contact but we will still be doing our best to keep book mail going. If you don’t know about the book mail membership benefit now is the time to become acquainted.

As AAC members you have access to the Henry S. Hall American Alpine Club Library!

This benefit allows you to checkout up to 10 items at a time. We’ll ship the items to you for free! Your only cost is the return shipping. Checkout periods are 35 days and you just have to get the book in the mail heading back to us by the due date.

To checkout books log into your Library profile at: booksearch.americanalpineclub.org First time users will have to notify us to set up their Library account; the best way to do that is for you to send an email to [email protected] and we’ll be able to create your account with the information from the main AAC member database.

We will carry on with book mail as long as there is no link to transferring the virus through the mail and as long as we are able to make it into the Library to ship the materials. If the Denver metro area goes into a shelter in place protocol or another similar quarantine then we will not be able to continue shipping books.

For some ideas on what to read two of our librarians put a list together of some of their favorite books last year for the REI climbing blog which can be seen at https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/aac-librarians-top-favorite-climbing-books Be sure to look at the comments of the post for other great recommendations as well!

A few of our Utah guidebooks

To prepare for your next trip we have both the hiking and climbing guides you need for planning the trip, and we have the how-to-guides that can teach you the techniques you need to know.

Need to learn how to climb?

Not sure what to read or want to recommend a book? Leave a comment below.

LODGING CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

We understand that our shared outdoor places are more important than ever. In an effort to protect local communities and follow state and national recommendations, as of March 17, all AAC facilities will remain closed to the public and to members. Additionally, we will be closing primitive camping at all facilities. Reservations are open for dates after May 8 (June 6 for GTCR). Refunds and modifications will be made without penalty for dates prior to April 30. As the situation relaxes or progresses, dates are subject to change. We appreciate your support, adaptability, and understanding during this time.

We encourage you to find local trails, hikes, and rides, or whatever you may have access to—a walk in the park, a run with your dog. Maintain appropriate distances from others you may encounter (at least six feet), wash your hands frequently, continue to leave no trace, breathe fresh air, and be grateful for the wild places we have.  

During this pandemic we encourage folks to stay local. Traveling puts everyone around us at risk. Many of the communities we travel to for our outdoor pursuits are small, isolated, and unexposed. Many of them may not have the medical or financial resources to mitigate COVID-19. So, please stay home. Play in the yard. Find ways to be a good steward to your local community, not just your climbing community. If you’re able, purchase gift cards online from local businesses and donate to mutual aid programs to help those out of work. If you’re extra able, please donate to us! We are keeping up the good fight—educating climbers and focusing on policy to keep our wild places wild. 

Soon, we will all be outside together again!

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Phil Powers: Farewell to A Visionary Leader

“I believed that with real work the AAC could not only provide membership benefits and community, but also be a positive force in the larger world. So I embarked on what has been a most fulfilling journey.”

Dive into this exhibit to learn about one of the AAC’s most influential CEOs, his legacy, and what inspired him to shape the Club the way he did.

ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

We will host the upcoming Annual Benefit Dinner virtually on Saturday, March 14 at 5 p.m. MDT, the in-person gathering is cancelled.

In an effort to lead in good decision-making as citizens of a country that is facing a potential crisis, we believe it is important to avoid contributing to that risk. We feel strongly that this is the responsible decision to protect the folks in our community who may be most vulnerable to the COVID-19 virus.

We are disappointed we won’t be seeing you all in person, but we still need your virtual presence and support this week!

Please stay tuned this week for a link to the live-stream feed, which will include a message from our keynote speaker Kris Tompkins, acceptance speeches from our 2020 awardees, and a special address from CEO Phil Powers.

The Annual Dinner is our largest fundraiser of the year. As we face increasing threats to our wild places and work to support a growing climbing population and volunteer network, we depend on this now-virtual event to help raise over $350,000 to fund our critical programs. 

We hope you will choose to stand with the AAC community from wherever you are to help ensure we reach our crucial goal. Thank you!

Please reach out to our team with any questions.

Heidi McDowell, Event Director [[email protected]]

Scott Wilton, Event Coordinator [[email protected]]

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AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

February, 2020, Golden, CO—T​he American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

About American Alpine Club​The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the ​American Alpine Journal​ and ​Accidents in North American Mountaineering​; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at​ americanalpineclub.org​.

AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

The AAC is pleased to announce the 2020 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

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February, 2020, Golden, CO—T​he American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

Speak up by March 10 to protect The National Environmental Policy Act

Recently, the Trump Administration announced a plan to rewrite the rules for how a bedrock environmental law called the National Environmental Policy Act is implemented. The rule changes would restrict public engagement in federal projects and limit the scope of environmental review for development projects on public lands and waters. More importantly, the rule changes would eliminate what is known as the cumulative impacts analysis, which has historically required the government to consider the effects of their decisions on the climate.

The Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) held a public hearing in Denver at the EPA Region 8 headquarters where the 100 or so speaking slots filled in under four minutes! AAC Policy Manager Taylor Luneau provided testimony on behalf of the human-powered recreation community, saying:

“At its core, NEPA mandates informed decision making, based on sound science and requires that, to the fullest extent possible, all agencies of the federal government take a hard look at environmental consequences prior to issuing a decision. NEPA declares a broad commitment to protecting and promoting environmental quality and the CEQ rules are influential in shaping agency implementation of the statute.”

NEPA is an essential pathway for the outdoor recreation community to engage in public land management and these changes will limit our ability to do just that. The CEQ will be accepting public comment on their revisions to NEPA until March 10. Please take a moment to let the CEQ know that we oppose these changes in the brief action alert below.

Policy Manager Taylor Luneau providing his testimony on the proposed changes to the CEQ implementation of NEPA at the EPA Region 8 Headquarters in Denver, CO.

AAC and the Climbing Grief Fund Announce Grief Grants

The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the ​Climbing Grief Grant​ is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a ​mental health directory​ to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

learn more about the Grief Fund, or apply for a grant.

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February 18, 2020, Golden, CO—The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a mental health directory to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

Applicants may apply online for the Climbing Grief Grant. All applications will remain confidential.

The Climbing Grief Fund acts as a hub to connect individuals to effective mental health professionals and resources. CGF is working to evolve the conversation around grief and trauma in the climbing, alpinism, and ski mountaineering community.

The Climbing Grief Fund was founded in 2018 by professional climber Madaleine Sorkin after a series of tragedies in her community. Sorkin currently directs the CGF.

“Offsetting some of the cost of therapy for individuals impacted by climbing-related tragedy was the original idea that pulled me into starting CGF,” Sorkin said, “so it’s exciting for me to see these grants become a reality. The grants are a concrete service that we can provide for our community and my hope is that our community quickly uses them up and CGF secures funding to offer more in 2020.”

Sorkin is curious how well her community will take to using these grants and whether demand will exceed the 15 budgeted annually. Through increased donations, the Climbing Grief Fund would like to offer more of these unique grants and continue to expand their programming. Currently, CGF programming includes Climbing Grief Grants, Story Archive Project, Mental Health Directory and Resources, and Psychoeducation Workshops. The Story Archive Project contains CGF’s filmed interviews with community members about the impact of grief and loss and how the individual is moving forward.

An original film called The Color of Mourning b rings together these interviews and will premiere on April 23 at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.

To learn more about CGF and to donate, please visit https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund.

Thank you for your support of the American Alpine Club, the Climbing Grief Fund, and this important program.

Protecting America's Wilderness Act Passed in the House!

The AAC celebrates the passing through the House of the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act (H.R. 2546) and strongly supports the Act as it moves to the Senate floor. This impressive public lands package combines six bills, collectively protecting 1.3 million acres of land and more than 1200 river miles in the Wild Olympics in Washington, the central coast and Redwoods in California, and Wilderness areas throughout Colorado. It defends outdoor recreation opportunities, safeguards water resources, protects public lands, and supports the multibillion dollar outdoor recreation economy. The land  protections in the act prohibit logging, mining, and drilling, in certain key landscapes and serves as a key climate change mitigation tactic. Thank you Rep. Diana DeGette for being a champion of this legislation, and thanks to all other representatives who supported this act. The climbing community is hopeful that the bill will successfully navigate the Senate in order to place a value on wilderness, and protect these indispensable lands and waterways for generations to come. 

Please join the AAC and the Outdoor Alliance in thanking your representatives for voting to advance this bill. Stay tuned for more information and actions as the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act makes its way to the senate floor. 

Happy Valenclimbs Week!

Print these out and give them to your partner-in-climb for a chance at sparking a belaytionship. xo, your AAC

Our Content Manager Emma doodled these with love, and with some creative input from the comments of last year’s post. Pun credits: 1st to @jendet2, 2nd to @drewpellitieri, 3rd to @loscambones, 4th to @_lord_jord, 5th to @ambeckman0. We <3 all of you.

In case you missed them, last year’s Valenclimbs are below.

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Let's Climb! Red Rocks Trip, April 2020

April 19 - 25, 2020
 Red Rock, NV

Too much time in the gym this winter? Craving sunny sandstone? Excited to meet new climbing partners?

Join the AAC’s Education Director, Ron Funderburke, AAC's trips organizer Carol Kotchek, and your fellow Club members in the legendary climbing area Red Rock, Nevada. If you've been looking for the best time to go, the right partners, or the motivation to put together the logistics here’s your opportunity!

We have rented a huge, deluxe, AirBNB, all you need to do is get yourself to Vegas with your personal gear and your psych! Please note the AirBNB is bunk-style so be prepared to share rooms.

Basecamp Includes:

• Six nights lodging within 25-minute drive to Red Rock ParkBreakfast and lunch to-go options.

• Daily single pitch climbing with Ron Funderburke, AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine Guide.

• Opportunity to learn new skills and debate best practices.

• Discount on local guide services with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
  In past years this event has sold out. Not all AAC members wanting to attend have been included due to limited space.  This year we will have a short application to fill out. There are no pre-qualifications to attend this event. Our goal with the application process is to create a diverse group of climbers.

To receive an application please contact Carol Kotchek at [email protected] 
We will be letting applicants know by Feb 20 of their acceptance into the event. 

Let's Climb, Red Rock Trip Cost: $600
A $200 non-refundable deposit is required at the time of application acceptance. The remainder is due on or before Feb 29, 2020.

AAC Retains Search Firm to Help Find Next CEO

Photo: Garrett Grove

On behalf of the American Alpine Club's Board of Directors, we want to update you on the search for the organization’s next CEO and the steps being taken to hire the best candidate to lead the Club forward.

We are pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

 Thanks to our search committee made up of board members Deanne Buck, Steve Swenson, Mark Butler, Peter Metcalf, David Landman, Kevin Duncan, Len Necefer, Graham Zimmerman and Jen Bruursema. Their time and dedication to the Club is reflected in the work so far and will undoubtedly secure a tremendous CEO.

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January 27, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding leaders for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

After AAC CEO Phil Powers announced in the fall of 2019 that he would be stepping down in Summer 2020, the AAC Board of Directors created a CEO Search Committee dedicated to finding the Club’s next leader. Search Committee members Jen Bruursema, Deanne Buck, Mark Butler, Kevin Duncan, David Landman, Peter Metcalf, Len Necefer, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman selected Koya Partners after a competitive process that drew proposals from leading national firms.

“Given the growth and broad reach of all forms of climbing and love for the mountains, we feel it is important for the Search Committee to consider a pool of candidates that reflects the community,” Committee Chair Deanne Buck said. “Koya’s commitment to helping their clients achieve their missions by providing customized, strategic, and innovative services and support for acquiring and retaining exceptional talent, aligns squarely with AAC’s focus in hiring our next CEO.”

The role of the search firm is to engage a multitude of stakeholders to create a Candidate Profile, identify and attract qualified candidates, and work with the Search Committee to interview and select the right hire to lead their client organizations into the future.

To date, the AAC CEO Search Committee, in partnership with Koya, has prioritized early effective methods for broad and inclusive consultation and stakeholder engagement with the climbing community. This input will inform the Candidate Profile that the AAC Board hopes to announce early February, with the completion of the search and announcement of next AAC CEO in summer 2020.

Look What We Accomplished Together! 2019 in Review

Together we made 2019 a great year—Thank you! We’ve set a big goal for our community and our planet, and we’re 75% of the way there. Help us reach our goal of $200k before January 1, 2020!

Montana Hill to Crag - Climbing Ice with Public Land Advocates

The American Alpine Club hosted their 5th Hill to Crag, and the FIRST ice climbing event this past weekend! We were incredibly fortunate to partner with the Bozeman Ice Festival and spotlight not only the event itself but the beauty and grandeur of Hyalite Canyon.

Hill to Crag is a unique opportunity to bring together legislators, staffers, outdoor recreation influencers, and veterans to discuss and share information in an exciting way - Climbing! Participants had the opportunity to get on the ice with some of America’s foremost Alpinists, as well as Service members who have a passion for the outdoors.

Among other things, we discussed Veteran issues, the impact of outdoor recreation on the economy, and access to public lands to support a healthy economy and Veteran therapy. We were joined by Rachel Vandervoort, Director of the Montana Office of Outdoor Recreation and spoke at length about the amazing climbing resources in Southwest Montana, and elsewhere in the state.

We were also joined by Zoe Bommarito and Darla Cotton from the National Forest Foundation, who experienced their first time climbing ever! Nearly 34% of climbing in the United States lies on Forest Service lands - that’s more than any other agency public lands. It was great to connect some of the stewards of these lands with climbing for the first time and talk about the importance of National Forests everywhere to the climbing community.

A big thanks to Joe Josephson, Conrad Anker and Graham Zimmerman for showing our crew around the canyon, putting up ropes, and teaching climbing movement. These folks have contributed in so many ways to the climbing community and we were grateful to have them in attendance. Also, thank you to all of the service members who attended. We hope to continue sharing climbing and public lands with active and veteran military communities across the country. A final and important thanks to our sponsors for the event, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Cilogear, and Patagonia!

Photo Credit: Joshua Murdock and Taylor Luneau

2020 ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER WEEKEND: CLIMBERS UNITING FOR THE PLANET

December 5, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club will host the 2020 Annual Benefit Dinner (ABD) weekend March 13-15, 2020 in Denver, Colorado. Since 1902, the Annual Benefit Dinner has served to convene the climbing community and garner support for the Club’s work around the protection of our wild places.

“Reductions to public lands generally lead to irreversible change. With climbing’s continued growth there is a tremendous amount of work that still needs to be done to protect and preserve our climbing landscapes,” stated AAC CEO Phil Powers. “It’s important to me that my final dinner at the helm sets the Club up to continue this hard work.”

 This year’s ABD will be presented by Patagonia and will feature a keynote by Kris McDivitt Tompkins, Former CEO of Patagonia and current president of Tompkins Conservation. Kris is a longstanding defender of wild places and a true champion for the planet.  

Kris will speak March 14, 2020, at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts (1101 13th St, Denver, CO 80204). She and her late husband Doug Tompkins turned millions of acres across Chile and Argentina into National Parks in an effort to restore and re-wild landscapes. Most recently, Kris completed the largest private land donation in history, with over one million acres going towards creating or expanding ten national parks in Chile. To date, Tompkins Conservation has helped conserve more than 14.2 million acres. 

The Annual Benefit weekend festivities will kick off Friday, March 13, at 6pm with the Send ‘n’ Social at Movement RiNo (3201 Walnut St, Denver, CO 80205). The Send ‘n’ Social includes games, libations, and a celebrity climbing competition. Saturday morning’s special panel discussions and presentations at the Hilton Denver City Center will be informational and inspiring sessions on topics ranging from public land issues to climate change. All weekend festivities surrounding the Dinner are open to the public.  

The main event of the weekend—the Annual Benefit Dinner—begins at 6pm on the 14th. In addition to Kris' keynote address, the AAC will honor climbers with the 2020 Climbing Awards, enjoy dinner, a complimentary bar, and silent and live auctions. Climbing Awardees will be announced January 2020. To learn more or buy tickets for this rare opportunity to hear from Kris McDivitt Tompkins, visit: americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-dinner

About the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

NEW! AAC Memberships for Active Duty Military Members and Veterans

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

The Club has recently launched a discounted membership for active-duty military members and veterans!

You can access veterans or military discount in your members profile when you renew, or on our website when you join!

We know service doesn’t stop when the uniform comes off. Did you know that veterans are among the most active volunteers working to improve our communities? U.S. Army Major Byron Harvison, life-long climber, AAC Salt Lake City Chapter Chair and active-duty military member is one of many examples. Major Harvison has played an instrumental role in our Hill-to-Crag events which unite veterans, active military members, AAC volunteers, state offices of outdoor recreation, and local, state, and national policymakers to connect via a day of rock climbing.

“Coming back from my tours overseas, I felt a continued need to serve. When I saw what the AAC was doing with education, land stewardship, and public policy, I wanted to get involved… The Hill to Crag events I organize include military members and veterans. It’s a way to get the veteran community engaged and give them a seat at the table. It’s a great fit: a lot of veterans I know love taking people outside and helping them stay active and fit.”

— U.S. Army Major Bryon Harvison

What's Happening To The Cryosphere? A Review Of The Recent IPCC Report.

Photo courtesy of Wilmer Sanchez Rodrigues, 2019 AAC research grant awardee. Photo taken while conducting research in Peru with the American Climber Science Program.

By Marca Hagenstad

Last fall in Innsbruck, Austria I presented the results of research I conducted with Protect Our Winters (POW) on the economics of snow sports at the International Snow Science Workshop. There, I met a French snow scientist who asked me to join his team as a contributing author on a chapter on High Mountain Areas in IPCC’s next research effort. The IPCC Special Report on Oceans and the Cryosphere came out this September, and I wanted to highlight some of its main findings. While I am a social scientist, specializing in circular economies, I’ve attempted to summarize the climate science as well, to help ensure the information is absorbed by a larger audience.

“Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works.”

Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works. I want to acknowledge this and distill the report down into digestible chunks that various communities can relate to. For the AAC, distributing information on the alpine environment makes sense. We are all aware of the changes we have seen in the mountains–from rain in winter to shrinking glaciers. The report investigates how these collective changes are impacting our global environment. 

Impacts on the farthest corners of the Earth

 This is the first IPCC report to examine climate change impacts to the farthest corners of the Earth, from the highest alpine regions to the deepest oceans. The frozen part of the Earth is called the cryosphere, and includes ice, snow, glaciers, and permafrost. It is widespread in polar regions and high mountains. Frozen regions are thawing and impacts are far-reaching. Land and sea ice are melting at accelerating rates. There is rapid surface melt of glaciers and decline in snow cover, especially at lower elevations. Permafrost is melting, with temperatures increasing to record high levels.

 Shrinking glaciers and snow cover have many impacts to recreation. They pose challenges to winter recreationists and to ski resorts, forcing some resorts out of business and increasing financial risks, especially for lower-elevation resorts. Many resorts are responding by increasing snow-making capabilities, which may be effective for a while, but may not be feasible in the long term as temperatures exceed minimum temperatures needed for snowmaking. By 2050, only 10 to 13 out of 21 prior Olympic Winter Games locations are projected to have adequate snow reliability, depending on the emissions scenario. Cryosphere decline has also reduced opportunities for ice climbing.

In summer, cryosphere changes are impacting glacier-related activities such as hiking, skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. Hiker and climber safety is being compromised along established trails and common access routes. In response, several routes have been relocated and some ladders and fixed anchors have been installed. New opportunities are presented in some locations where visitors are attracted by ‘last chance’ opportunities to view a glacier or to view the loss of a glacier. Trekking in the Himalaya has been negatively affected and the reduced water availability affects the ability of hotels and campsites to serve visitors. 

 Permafrost holds double the amount of carbon currently in the atmosphere. As it thaws, enormous quantities of carbon and methane are released – we’re talking 10s to 100s of billions of tonnes of CO2 - which further contribute to global warming. Contaminants are also released, affecting water quality. Permafrost thaw is also affecting recreationists: rock falls on and off glaciers are increasingly observed, threatening the safety of hikers and mountaineers, especially in Switzerland and New Zealand. Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season. 

“Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season.”

The report concludes that the speed and intensity of the future impacts from ocean and cryosphere change depend critically on the quantities of greenhouse gas emissions we choose to continue to release. So, it is a positive that we actually have control over how severe the impacts of climate change will get. We will continue to experience significant changes, but impacts will be much less severe if emissions are significantly reduced. Reducing other pressures such as pollution and overfishing, and increasing habitat and wetland restoration can also ease impacts. Improving education and using scientific knowledge alongside local and Indigenous knowledge can support the development of solutions that help communities adapt to changes and respond to challenges ahead.

Marca Hagenstad is an economist with Circle Economics and a contributing author to the most recent Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report on the cryosphere. She also tests splitboards for Backcountry Magazine and teaches snow science with Winter Wildlands Alliance.

American Alpine Club Researchers

AAC Researchers are scholars and scientists who have conducted environmental research in part through AAC funding. These are their stories.

Past Award Recipients

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Scott Braddock

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Climate impacts on the glaciers and wildlife of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, Chile

The primary goals of this project are to identify the dominant mechanism of tide-water glacier acceleration in the SPI, specifically Témpano and Bernardo Fjords (Figure 1), and to establish a working relationship with both local Chilean government (CONAF) and international (Round River Conservation Studies) organizations to continue this research theme into the future. This partnership will provide resources and logistical support as well as the opportunity to share equipment and data in the greater effort of understanding and conserving the SPI. In addition, we will have the opportunity to not only publish our findings in journals but also to share these findings with local communities and students (ages 8-21) through field trips, classroom visits and citizen-science efforts around the SPI. It is our hope that this interdisciplinary approach will help to inform and involve these communities to continue conservation and protection of national parks in Chile and build upon our research efforts in a collaborative nature.

Read Braddock’s full report here.

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Anais Zimmer

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Future of Periglacial Landscapes: Alpine Ecosystems and Deglaciation in the Tropical Andes and French Alps

First, this research permits to understand the future of proglacial landscapes at a local scale to enhance decision-making and land use management, generating scientific reports for municipalities, regional or national governments. Second, this proposal aims to develop applied solutions to respond to actual and future problems in mountain regions. Our grazing experiment in Peru tests a local solution that can be implemented at a larger scale and in other mountain systems to respond to regional problems. Third, our results from both continents will advance complementary studies worldwide in such regions as the Central and Southern Andes, the Arctic and Scandinavian Mountains, the Himalayan region, and Africa.

In addition, this research provides the groundwork to create awareness and promote international policies for the conservation of deglaciated landscapes. We aim to influence the broader community of international organizations that work on conservation (such as the IUCN, UNESCO, Mountain Research Initiative, ICIMOD, The Nature Conservancy, among others) in a call for the protection and restoration of proglacial landscapes. Up until now, there is no specific effort on this.

(Photo by: Carlos Ly)

Read Anais’ Full Report Here

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Martí March Salas

2018 Research Grant Recipient

The effect of rock climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation: Implementation of an innovative and comprehensive methodology in a wide geographical range

This project proposed to evaluate the effects of rock climbing on plant biodiversity in different locations with Mediterranean environmental conditions, one of the most widely distributed biomes around the world, including California, central Chile, Western Cape (South Africa), south of Australia, and the Mediterranean Basin. We conducted field-samplings in different regions along Spain, south of France, and California. This project provides a starting point for the study of the long-term effects of rock climbing on plant communities, and it was a first step for evaluate, for the first time, the effects of rock climbing in a wide geographic range.

Read Salas’ full report here.

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Marie Faust

2018 Research Grant Recipient

Reproductive consequences of climate change-driven alterations in co-flowering between two subalpine plant species

In the summer of 2018, Faust conducted a short-term field experiment to investigate the effects of climate-driven shifts in co-flowering between Linum lewisii and Potentilla pulcherrima. She hoped to answer these questions: Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering between Linum and Potentilla affect fruit and seed set in Linum? Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering affect interspecific competition for pollinator services between Linum and Potentilla? Read her report and find her answers here.

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Alison Criscitiello

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Histories of Arctic climate and environmental contaminants from a shallow ice core, Mt. Oxford, Ellesmere Island

This project involved the drilling of a new ice core on the plateau of Mt. Oxford, a peak on northern Ellesmere Island, to investigate Arctic Ocean sea-ice variability as well as climate and pollutant histories in this region of the Arctic. The records from this new ice core will be compared to records from other ice cores to offer new insights into the spatial variations in accumulation, moisture source, contamination, and marine aerosol deposition across the eastern Canadian high Arctic. Read more here.

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Anya Tyson

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The Clark's Nutcracker Project: Engaging young adventurers in citizen science.

The whitebark pine is a high-elevation tree entirely dependent upon the Clark's nutcracker to disperse its seeds, and this tree species has suffered greatly from an invasive fungus and a native bark beetle. This research utilized the observation powers of young adventurers to collect data on whitebark pine and Clark's nutcrackers during wilderness expeditions across four remote mountain ranges in Wyoming and Montana. Read more here.

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Emily Schultz

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The importance of within-patch heterogeneity for population dynamics of a high elevation pine.

With mountainous regions across the globe being strongly affected by climate change, it is important to develop reliable models for characterizing how mountain species are affected by environmental variation. This research used new and existing data for whitebark pine in the Elkhorn Mountains of Oregon to test whether within-population variation, such as elevation gradients, can change predictions for the persistence of this species. Read more here.

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Kate McHugh

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications in the National Park Service

What makes climbing in wilderness unique? How can climbing management practices honor local values and uphold wilderness ideals? McHugh’s study addresses the need to characterize the wilderness climbing resource in National Parks so that it may be appropriately monitored and managed. Deliverables of the research include, first; a critical review of literature, law, policy, and agency practices, and second; the development of tools to describe and define the wilderness climbing resource and a monitoring protocol to document change over time. Research is in-progress; a final report will be posted upon completion.

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Nathalie Chardon

2016 and 2017 Research Grant Recipient

Quantifying the Effects of Anthropogenic Disturbance on Alpine Flora on Colorado's 14'ers

Hiking on Colorado's tallest peaks is rapidly increasing in popularity, yet the effects of this increase are poorly understood. This study integrates a two year field study with ecological modeling techniques to elucidate how these fragile alpine ecosystems are responding to this pressure. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Nathalie on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Rachael Mallon

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Biogeography of Snow Algae Communities in the Pacific Northwest

The pink or "watermelon" snow seen occasionally in alpine environments is indicative of the presence of snow algae, one of the many species inhabiting biodiverse alpine ecosystems. The algae's pigmentation increases snow melting, making research into the snow algae populations critical to climate change models. This researcher collected samples from Oregon and Washington for molecular analysis to better understand variability across snow algae communities in the Pacific Northwest. Read more here.

The National Renewable Energy Lab wrote a piece about Rachel’s work. Read it here.

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Rebecca Finger

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Limitations to shrub expansion in a warmer Arctic

The warming Arctic is experiencing increases in plant growing season length, but some regions have seen a decline in tundra plant growth while others have experienced increased tundra plant growth. This research examined potential landscape changes over the last fifty years in West Greenland and studied abiotic and biotic controls on modern-day shrub growth and distribution. Read more here.

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Alice Hill

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Dissecting River Flow: Quantifying How Melting Glaciers and Snow Impact Central Asian Water Stress

This research took place over a 500 km stretch of the Naryn River draining the western flanks for the Tien Shan Mountains in Kyrgyzstan. The work aims to quantify the relative source water contribution from snow, ice, groundwater, and rain to lowland river flow in an arid Central Asian catchment to better understand potential future flow vulnerabilities across this volatile region. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Alice on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Jonathan Burton

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing Risk of Glacial Outburst Flooding from the Imja Lake, Nepal

Located southeast of Mt. Everest, The Imja Lake is dammed by the terminal moraine of the Imja Glacier. As melt water from the glacier causes the Imja Lake to grow, the risk of catastrophic flooding to the down-stream communities grows. This study measured glacial dimensions, glacial retreat and lake depth over several years to model future glacial dynamics and the risk of outburst flooding. Read more here.

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Katie Epstein & Jessica DiCarlo

2016 Research Grant Recipients

Surveying Adaptation and Recovery in Mountain Farming Communities in Nepal After the 2015 Earthquakes

Nepal is still recuperating from the series of earthquakes that occurred early in 2015. In this study, households in farming communities in the mountainous district of Dolakha are interviewed and surveyed. Results indicate that subsistence agricultural systems were heavily impacted in the earthquakes and that household perceptions of recovery are highly differentiated, despite largely uniform and widespread damages across study sites. Read more here.

Read Epstein and DiCarlo's article in Ecology and Society here. They have also published this research in Case Studies in the Environment and Ambio: A Journal of the Human Environment.

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Nathan Fry

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Evaluating Efficacy of Outdoor Education in Implementing Social-Ecological System Behavior in the Kyrgyz Republic

The purpose of this project is to create an ecological leadership curriculum that effectively combines “best practices” in adventure leadership and environmental education and apply the curriculum to the American University of Central Asia’s pilot Ecological Leadership Program. Read more here.

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Grant Lipman

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Analyzing the Efficacy of a New Potential Acute Mountain Sickness Medication

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a condition often triggered by rapidly ascending to a higher elevation, without proper acclimatization. The purpose of this trial is to investigate the usefulness of the drug budesonide as a prevention/treatment medication for AMS. Results are compared to the standard AMS treatment: acetazolamide. Read more here.

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Kristin Schild

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Constraining a Prominent Driver in Glacier Terminus Stability from the Tidewater Glacier Kronebreen to Kongsfjorden, Svalbard

The Kronebreen glacier in Svlabard, Norway, was the prime location for this research. The work aims to study water samples collected at the glacier to quantify the magnitude and variation of glacier-driven fjord circulation in order to make more accurate predictions about the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Kristin on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Robin Thomas

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Relative Dating of Glacier Moraines in the Cordillera Blanca

Black carbon is believed to be contributing to climate change by absorbing sunlight and released as heat when deposited on the Earth’s surface. The black carbon snow sampling project involved climbing up onto glaciers in Peru to collect snow samples and measuring the reflectivity of the snow. This is just one of the several studies conducted with the help of this award. Read more here.

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Tim Graham

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing the Impacts of Introduced Mountain Goats on La Sal Mountain Alpine Arthropod Communities

Non-native animal species can threaten sensitive ecosystems. Recently, 35 non-native mountain goats were brought to the La Sal Mountains along the Utah/Colorado border. This research investigates the consequences of that introduction by surveying arthropod communities before and after the mountain goats were brought to the area. Read more here.

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Trevor Bloom

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Investigating the Impact of Climate Change and Wildfire on High Elevation Wildflower Saxifraga Austromontana in the Rocky Mountains

High elevation ecosystems are experiencing the impact of climate change with many species moving up North in search of cooler climates. This study focuses specifically on the Saxifraga austromontana (spotted saxifrage) and seeks answers on how the species will fare under the impact of climate change and increased fire frequency. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Trevor on climate change, his research and climbing. Read the interview here.

AAC CEO Highlighted in New Film

Photo: Chipsa House

Our CEO Phil Powers summited K2 without oxygen and has a first ascent on Denali, but it was a simple climb on his lunch break that left him with the biggest challenge of his life following a miscommunication and a 70-foot fall. Watch the film below.

“There is no single moment that defines your life. To be grateful, to live in the moment, to love everybody you can, try to give back... [an accident like Phil’s] definitely wakes you up.”

— Sarah Pierce

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