[This film contains expletives—viewer discretion is advised.] Far Away is a climbing area where Jenny Fischer and Kat Whipple attempted a first ascent on their Live Your Dream Grant trip to Liming, China. Far Away, a film by Samuel Crossley Media documenting Jenny and Kat’s journey, is out now! Produced in partnership with Ortovox and Deuter.
Watch the film and then go apply for a Live Your Dream grant, powered by The North Face:
Chantel Astorga. Photo: AAC member Anne Gilbert Chase
Congratulations to this year’s recipients of the 2019 Cutting Edge Grant! The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100 year tradition of supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives. This year’s winners are Sam Hennessey, Chantel Astorga, and Chris Wright. Read about their objectives and then listen to the latest Cutting Edge podcast to hear Chris Wright and Graham Zimmerman talk about their wild new route, the tactics and gear required, and the two climbers' strong partnership, which will take them back to Pakistan this summer for a second attempt at one of the world's great unclimbed peaks.
The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.
January 29, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s recipients of the 2019 Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100 year tradition of supporting climbing athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.
The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2019 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $20,000 to three recipients:
Sam Hennessey ($8,000) to attempt the North Face of Chamlang (7300m) in the Eastern Himalaya of Nepal. Rob Smith, Seth Timpano, Michael Gardner, and grant-winner Sam Hennessey will attempt the unclimbed North Face this coming Autumn, in alpine style. The north face is an impressive feature, rising nearly 2000m directly to the summit ridge. The face has received attention almost yearly for the last decade, with no teams making serious progress due to poor climbing conditions, bad weather, or both. Hennessey has climbed technical routes all over the world, from the Himalaya to Patagonia.
Chantel Astorga ($6,000) to attempt Pumari Chhish South (7350m) in Pakistan's Hispar Karakoram. Astorga and Anne Gilbert Chase will attempt the unclimbed 2700m South Face in mixed climbing conditions and with an alpine style approach. In 2018, Astorga and Chase completed the first female ascent of Denali’s Slovak Direct (5.9X M6 W16+, 9,000’). They also completed the first ascent of the unclimbed SW face of Mount Nilkantha in India, with Jason Thompson.
Chris Wright ($6,000) to attempt an unclimbed 7000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram Range, Pakistan. The grant will fund expedition expenses for Wright and Graham Zimmerman. They will be joined by Mark Richey and Steve Swenson in attempting the first ascent of the peak in alpine style. Wright, Zimmerman, and Swenson previously attempted the peak but were unsuccessful due to uncooperative weather. Wright describes it as, “A stunning, oft-tried, yet unclimbed granite monster in a seldom-visited valley in the heart of the Karakoram...it is undoubtedly one of the most compelling undone peaks of the greater ranges.” Wright has been climbing for 17 years, including 11 expeditions to technical routes in the greater ranges. He holds numerous first ascents in Alaska, India, Nepal, Norway, and more.
The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.
The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.
We’re thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.
Golden, CO, December 5, 2018—The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest non-profit organization for climbers, is thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.
The AAC led the application process and final selection of the 2019 USA Team. Criteria was based on national rankings from recent competitive ice climbing seasons and events, and a preference for athletes who compete in cross-disciplinary ice competition (e.g. athletes that compete in both the Difficulty (Lead) and Speed competitions). The AAC also provided “developmental” spots on the team for less experienced competition climbers who demonstrate exceptional talent and commitment to the sport. Equal team positions were available for men and women in the performance (6) and developmental (2) categories.
The final 2019 USA Team consists of 21 adults and 10 youth members.Phil Powers, CEO at the AAC said “These athletes represent the cutting edge of one of the more wild versions of the climbing craft. I am astounded every time I witness their gymnastics and delicate skill all performed far off the ground with ice axes and crampons.”
The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado and the first time a World Cup Finals event has been held in the USA. The weekend event will be held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and is free to the public. The ice climbing competition will take place over two days with qualifying rounds on Sat, Feb 23, and semi-finals and overall finals on Sun, Feb 24. The event is expected to attract over 200 athletes from 21 countries around the world to compete for the overall World Cup in both Difficulty and Speed categories.
Competition ice climbing combines formidable over-hanging walls of ice with artful technique and sheer power. In the lead discipline, ice climbers require great technique, tactical mastery and nerves of steel to execute complex moves in seemingly improbable positions dozens of feet above the ground. The speed discipline is almost a vertical take on the 100m sprint in the sport of athletics. In 2014, competitive ice climbing debuted as an exhibition sport at the Sochi Winter Olympics and is hopeful for a full-scale Olympic debut in the near future.
2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team:
Denver World Cup Finals:
Mens Lead:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Aaron Montgomery
Grant Kleeves
Kevin Lindlau
Wesley Fowler
Carter Stritch
Troy Anger
Womens Lead:
Corey Buhay
Catalina Shirley
Claire Poppendeck
Mikayla Tougas
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Mens Speed:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Kevin Lindlau
Wesley Fowler
Marcus Garcia
Jake Bourdow
Troy Anger
Carter Stritch
Womens Speed:
Corey Buhay
Catalina Shirley
Claire Poppendeck
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Lindsay Hastings
2018/2019 International World Cup Events:
Mens Team:
Tyler Kempney
Thomas Gehrlein
Kevin Lindlau
Carter Stritch
Troy Anger
Liam Foster
Cody Stevenson
Andrew Lamb
Marcus Garcia
Carter Stritch
Womens Team:
Angela Tomczik
Angela Limbach
Kendra Stritch
Lindsay Hastings
World Cup Youth Team:
Keenan Griscom
Calvin Daugherty
Kylie Cullen
Georgia Witchel
Aubrey Palmer
Maija Fox
MaKenzee Van Buren
Liam Foster
Cody Stevenson
Mikayla Tougas
Katie Seymour
Lindsay Levine
Christopher Atchison
Catalina Shirley
Support the USA Ice Climbing Team.
Read more about the 2019 USA World Cup Team here:
https://americanalpineclub.org/world-cup/2018/11/26/2019-usa-world-cup-ice-climbing-team
2019 Denver Ice Climbing World Cup Schedule:
Friday, Feb 22 Opening Ceremony
Saturday, Feb 23 8AM – 8PM // Lead Qualifiers, Speed Qualifiers
Sunday, Feb 24 8AM – 5PM // Lead Semi-Finals, Lead Finals, Speed Finals, Closing Ceremony, After Party (hosted by the AAC)
The American Alpine Club is pleased to announce the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team! Click on a photo to learn more about an athlete and where they are competing this season.
Keenan Griscom
Calvin Daugherty
Kylie Cullen
Georgia Witchel
Catalina Shirley
Liam Foster
Cody Stevenson
Mikayla Tougas
Katie Seymour
Lindsay Levine
The 2019 USA ice climbing team can use your support! The USA Ice Climbing team has grown significantly this year with 21 Adults and 10 Youth competing. As a developing sport, there is not much monetary sponsorship available and athletes need to fund their own trip as well as purchase unique and expensive equipment to be able to train and compete.
Please consider supporting this amazing team!
Photo: Craig Hoffman
The American Alpine Club and Access Fund are excited to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards with funding going towards nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country:
Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission
Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance
Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition
Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition
Golden, CO, October 15, 2018—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its third year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.
Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition
Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC) was awarded funding to replace plated 3/8” wedge anchors with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve and glue-in anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SMCC will engage local volunteers to expand their ability to tackle aging bolts at the gneiss and limestone crags in the region.
Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2019 and is striving to keep bad bolts in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.
Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission
Morehead Tourism Commission was awarded funding to tackle rebolting efforts at Slab Camp, a half-mile section of cliff line featuring approximately 60 routes that were originally bolted in the early 1990s with hardware store bolts and anchors. The routes include a mix of both sport and traditional, with all sport routes requiring new bolts and anchors and all traditional routes in need of new anchors. All bolts will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel glue-ins. The Morehead Tourism Commission has enlisted the help of local climbers and rebolting experts from the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative to assist them with the effort through training and consultation on rebolting practices.
Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve
The Mohonk Preserve was awarded funding to replace eight tree and piton anchors in the Gunks with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve anchors. New bolted anchors placed below the cliff top will reduce climber impacts to the top of the cliff on routes like Gelsa in the Near Trapps. They will also replace aging piton anchors on popular routes like Son of Easy O in the Trapps.
Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition
East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in 5 years. ETCC is tackling replacement of approximately 4,000 aging bolts, which are all approaching 30 years of age, throughout the popular northeast Tennessee climbing area. ETCC has already undertaken this massive challenge, enlisting the help of volunteers and replacing 730 bolts with 1/2” stainless steel anchors this year alone.
Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance
High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Smith Rock State Park in central Oregon. HDCA will engage local volunteer bolt replacers to replace aging plated hardware that has been in the rock for over 40 years with long last 1/2” stainless steel hardware.
Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding for rebolting efforts in Boulder Canyon and other Front Range climbing areas. The BCC will purchase 100 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts and hangers, as well as 40 anchor set-ups. Their annual rebolting events will take place at North Table Mountain, Boulder Canyon, and Clear Creek Canyon.
Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition
The Black Hills Climbers Coalition (BHCC) was awarded funding to replace aging anchors at popular crags throughout Spearfish Canyon. The BHCC is tackling replacement of 300+ routes, which were equipped 25 years ago with plated and mixed metals. The BHCC will replace these aging anchors using high quality stainless steel glue-ins to meet the highest standards for fixed anchors at limestone sport climbing areas.
Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition
The Bighorn Climbers Coalition (BCC) was awarded funding to address aging anchors in Ten Sleep Canyon. The BCC will focus on replacing wedge bolts, cold shuts, and worn lower-off anchors throughout the canyon. These will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel bolts and high quality ring anchors and lower-off hooks specifically manufactured for climbing.
We’re excited to announce the following climbing and adventure grants are now open for applications, meaning we’re awarding over $40,000 to climbers and backcountry snowboarders in the next few months!
CUTTING EDGE GRANT
The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund advanced and capable climbers planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Awards will typically fall in the $5,000 to $15,000 range, however award amounts will vary based on project and budget. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.
JONES ADVENTURE GRANTS
The Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant & the Jones Live Like Liz Award support splitboarding expeditions with strong exploratory and adventure components. The project objective may focus on a single descent/summit or a tour/traverse of a region. Each grant recipient will receive a $1,500 cash award plus a Jones splitboard, skins and backcountry touring backpack.
The Jones Live Like Liz Award is open only to our female riders, while the Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant is open to all AAC members. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.
COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD
EXTENDED DEADLINE! Established in the memory of Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, the Copp-Dash Inspire Award provides $20,000 in climbing grants to assist small teams tackling difficult climbs in the great mountains of the world and multimedia instruction to help them to share their ascents through a blend of storytelling elements. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.
Not a fit for these grants? The Live Your Dream Grant and others will open for applications this winter and spring, so stay tuned.
Athletes interested in the Ice Climbing Youth World Championship February 28 - March 2 in Oulu, Finland, must complete the google form application by 11:59PM MST on October 4, 2018.
The American Alpine Club will make their selections and athletes will be notified by October 18.
The USA can send 6 men and 6 women in each of 3 age categories. Athletes must turn 12 (or older) in 2019 to participate.
Photo by M. Garcia, USA Youth Ice Team.
As a Member Federation to the UIAA, the American Alpine Club is responsible for selecting the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team.
Athletes interested in competing in any of the Ice Climbing World Cup & World Championship events must complete the google form application by 11:59pm MST on September 25, 2018.
The American Alpine Club will make their selections and athletes will be notified by October 5.
As a Member Federation to the UIAA, the American Alpine Club is responsible for selecting the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team.
Athletes interested in competing in any of the Ice Climbing World Cup & World Championship events must complete the google form application by 11:59pm MST on September 25, 2018.
The American Alpine Club will make their selections and athletes will be notified by October 5.
USA World Cup Team Selection:
The USA can send up to 8 men and 8 women in each of Difficulty (Lead) and Speed to each World Cup event, including the Denver World Cup in 2019. For World Championship events the quota is 3 men and 3 women.
As the future of Ice Climbing competition is headed toward combined difficulty and speed events, priority will be given to athletes who compete in both.
Since we are working to develop a team, priority will be given to athletes who are competing in more than one World Cup event, and who plan to compete in future years.
Athletes must turn 16 or older before the end of 2019 (born 2003 or later).
We encourage people who are experienced competitors in any form of climbing to apply.
6 spots per gender will be selected based on the following performance criteria:
National ranking from the 2018 season (top 2 spots are guaranteed participation)
Highest rankings in each of the categories (Difficulty and Speed) from the 2016, 2017 and 2018 World Cup seasons
Ranking in previous non-World Cup competitions (e.g. Ouray, Bozeman, Michigan Ice Festivals)
Number of World Cup competitions you are applying to compete in during the 2019 season
Competition experience in any form of climbing
2 Development spots per gender will be selected based on the following criteria:
Historical competition participation
Number of competitions you are applying to compete in during the 2019 season
Current training plan
Competition experience in any form of climbing
National ranking from the 2018 season
In the event that participants are only competing in either Speed or Difficulty (and not both) the AAC will select enough athletes to be able to field a team consisting of 8 men and 8 women for the Speed portion and 8 men and 8 women for the Difficulty portion.
In the event that there are not 6 performance or 2 developmental applicants that are qualified to participate at the international level, the allocation numbers will be adjusted.
The American Alpine Club is hosting the USA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in Denver. This event is free and open to the public to attend and watch over 120 athletes from over 20 countries compete in Lead and Speed competitions.
At-A-Glance
Friday, February 22: Athlete Registration, Opening Ceremony, Dinner
Saturday, February 23: Speed Climbing Qualifying & Semi-Finals, Lead Qualifying
Sunday, February 24: Speed Finals, Lead Finals, Award Ceremony, Ticketed VIP Party
Athletes interested in competing in this, or any World Cup competition must fill out an application by September 25 by midnight MST.
Information and the application can be found here.
2019 World Cup Schedule
January 11-13 South Korea
January 18-20 China
January 24-26 Switzerland
February 1-3 Italy
February 8-10 France
February 22-24 USA
The AAC is pleased to announce that UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing is coming to Denver, Colorado February 23–24, 2019. The new North American tour stop will serve as the 2018 / 2019 World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in which over 200 athletes from 26 countries around the world will compete for the overall World Cup in both Lead and Speed categories.
The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado. The weekend event will be held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and will be free to the public. The ice climbing competition will take place over two days with qualifying rounds on Sat, Feb 23, and semi-finals and overall finals on Sun, Feb 24.
Golden, CO, June 26, 2018—The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest and largest non-profit organization for climbers, is pleased to announce that UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing is coming to Denver, Colorado February 23–24, 2019. The new North American tour stop will serve as the 2018 / 2019 World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in which over 200 athletes from 26 countries around the world will compete for the overall World Cup in both Lead and Speed categories.
The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado. The weekend event will be held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and will be free to the public. The ice climbing competition will take place over two days with qualifying rounds on Sat, Feb 23, and semi-finals and overall finals on Sun, Feb 24.
"We are proud to support our U.S. ice climbing athletes and bring this impressive event to downtown Denver," said American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers. "Competitive ice climbing is one of the most exciting things I've ever watched; the stamina, skill, and seeming impossibility of it all makes for an outstanding spectator experience. They’re up there doing crazy moves, wielding sharp tools and they hang on forever.”
Competition ice climbing combines formidable over-hanging walls of ice with artful technique and sheer power. In the lead discipline, ice climbers require great technique, tactical mastery and nerves of steel to ascend seemingly improbable icy pillars dozens of feet above the ground. The speed discipline is most closely akin to all out vertical sprint using ice axes and crampons. In 2014, competitive ice climbed debuted as an exhibition sport at the Sochi Winter Olympics. The sport is currently being considered for full-scale Olympic inclusion in the 2022 Winter Games in Beijing .
Luis Benitez, Director of the Colorado Office of Outdoor Recreation Industry and event partner, also commented, “Ice climbing has a strong presence in the culture of outdoor recreation in Colorado. From our world class ice park in Ouray, to our iconic routes in Vail and Rocky Mountain National Park, this is a sport whose time has come. We are thrilled to welcome the World Cup event to Denver in February to highlight just how special ice climbing is and share that feeling with the rest of the country watching!”
The 2019 Denver World Cup Ice Climbing Competition is being hosted by the Golden, CO based American Alpine Club in partnership with the UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation and tour organizer), the Civic Center Conservancy, Denver Sports Commission, Visit Denver, Colorado Office of Outdoor Recreation Industry, and the Denver Office of Special Events.
“We’re thrilled to help host this exciting international event in Denver’s historic Civic Center Park and expose this amazing sport to a larger population than ever in North America,” said Scott Robson, Executive Director of the non-profit Civic Center Conservancy, “Civic Center Park is the heart of Denver and has hosted iconic events for over a century. Hosting the 2019 World Cup Ice Climbing finale in such an urban setting will not only make this competition accessible to multitudes of new fans, but will also be visually stunning to watch.”
US athletes who wish to compete at the 2019 Denver World Cup will be able to earn entry at qualifying competitions.
For additional information, including how to become a sponsor, please contact: Vickie Hormuth at [email protected] or visit: americanalpineclub.org/uiaa-federation/
Denver Ice Climbing World Cup Schedule:
Friday, Feb 22
Athlete Registration
Saturday, Feb 23
Lead Qualifiers, Speed Qualifiers
Sunday, Feb 24
Lead Semi-Finals, Lead Finals, Speed Finals, Closing Ceremony, After Party (hosted by the American Alpine Club)
The AAC and The North Face are proud to announce the recipients of the 2018 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $72,150 was awarded to 158 individuals from across the nation, making 2018 the most successful year in the history of the Live Your Dream grant program. Roughly one out of every three applicants received an award.
The climbing grant for climbers, by climbers, the Live Your Dream grant seeks to fund every-day adventurers looking take their abilities to the next level. Be it transitioning out of the gym or establishing a first ascent in the greater ranges, the purpose of this grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for mountain adventurers—to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.
The 2019 Live Your Dream grant cycle will open for applications on February 1, 2019.
2018 Live Your Dream Recipients
The American Alpine Club and The North Face are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2018 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $72,150 was awarded to 158 recipients.
The Northeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Howard Sebold. Committee members included Tom Lannamann, Mikhail Martin, Martin Torresquintero, and TNF athlete Anna Pfaff.
Joshua Alcorn: New York, New York
$400 to attempt a fast and light Styggedalstind/Skagastølstind traverse in the Jotunheimen mountains, Norway.
Neil Berenholz: Nyack, New York
$200 for a 4 day trip to climb The Diagonal and other routes on Wallface, Adirondack high peaks.
Ethan Berman: Cambridge, Massachusetts
$800 to climb new lines in alpine style on Cerro Arkhata (5650 m), Cerro Mururata (5871 m) and Peak 5402 in the Cordillera Real Sur, Bolivia.
William Braasch Jr: Norwich, Vermont
$300 to establish a new, free, alpine style route on Tathagata Tower, Cirque of the Unclimbables and a secondary objective of a three-day ridge traverse within the Cirque.
Abigail Connell: Mystic, Connecticut
$250 to train to be a 5.12 climber by the end of 2018 and travel to El Potrero Chico, Mexico and climb Time Wave Zero (TWZ), IV/V 5.12a.
Corey Day: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
$400 to climb 5.10-5.12 offwidth cracks and learn inverted crack climbing technique in Vedauwoo, WY.
Anthony DellaValle: Tonawanda, New York
$200 for a "Big Walls of the Northeast" trip - a 10 day trip to New Hampshire and the Adirondacks to complete Moby Grape (NH), Whitney-Gilman Ridge (NH), The Diagonal (NY), and Gamesmanship (NY).
Alissa Doherty: Somerville, Massachusetts
$250 to make first ascents in a range of serious, unnamed, unclimbed, peaks in a little known corner of the Alaska Range in south-central Alaska.
Rachel Drattler: Maplewood, New Jersey
$250 to climb the Southeast face of the Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque of the Unclimbables and potentially climb other peaks and towers in the region.
Arthur Eng: Bear, Delaware
$250 to attempt the second ascent of the South Ridge of Mount Russell, Denali National Park.
John Gassel: Somerville, Massachusetts
$250 to make first ascents in a range of serious, unnamed, unclimbed, peaks in a little-known corner of the Alaska Range in south-central Alaska.
Garrett Gibbons: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
$400 to climb 5.10-5.12 offwidth cracks and learn inverted crack climbing technique in Vedauwoo, WY.
Gretchen Grebe: Scarborough, Maine
$250 to climb the Northeast Face on Pingora and East Ridge of Wolf's Head, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range.
James Gurian: Wayne, Pennsylvania
$400 for a two month trip out west to train and attempt the East Shoulder of South Howser Tower, Bugaboos and a traverse of the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range.
Robert Johnson: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
$500 for a week-long Yosemite trip to climb his first multi-day wall route: the South Face of Washington Column, as well as the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock.
Emmett Lyman: Somerville, Massachusetts
$250 to make first ascents in a range of serious, unnamed, unclimbed, peaks in a little-known corner of the Alaska Range in south-central Alaska.
*A fourth member of this party was also awarded $250 for this objective.
John Martin: Princeton, New Jersey
$500 to climb Mount Shuksan via the Price Glacier route.
Evgenia Moiseeva: Boston, Massachusetts
$300 for a 5 day variation of the Monta Rosa Peaks traverse.
Michael Nawrot: Cambridge, Massachusetts
$450 to spend an extended time on glaciers in the Southern Alps in the Aoraki/Mount Cook region and climb alpine routes in the area.
Kira Ratcliffe: Middlebury, Vermont
$450 for a two-week trip to the Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia to climb classic alpine trad routes and splitter cracks including the Beckey-Chouinard Route and Sunshine Crack.
Michael Reid: Windham, Maine
$250 to develop mountaineering skills in a two-day technical summit attempt on Mt. Hood via the West Crater Rim and continue to evolve diabetes self-management for climber's with type one diabetes.
Valerie Rogotzke: New Haven, Connecticut
$800 for a single-day, solo run of the 56-mile Circuito Cóndores in central Chile.
Tyler Rohr: Cambridge, Massachusetts
$500 to attempt the first free ascent of Pico Cao Grande, a 455-meter volcanic tower on the island of Sao Tome, via the 15-pitch route Nubivagant (Wandering in the Clouds).
Bernard Rusnock: Hackettstown, New Jersey
$400 to climb the Matterhorn from the Italian side and traverse the summit and descend via the Hornli Ridge into Switzerland.
Stormy Saint-Val: Cambridge, Massachusetts
$450 for a rock gym pass to improve climbing skill and train to participate in Color The Crag climbing festival.
Jacky Sawyer: New York, New York
$350 to advance climbing ability to the next level and build the skill and confidence to lead climb by spending two weeks on a self-designed climbing retreat with experienced climbers in Owens River Gorge and Bishop, California.
Tyler Simon: Stewartsville, New Jersey
$200, to climb the Matterhorn from the Italian side and traverse the summit and descend via the Hornli Ridge into Switzerland.
Michael Swartz: Somerville, Massachusetts
$500 to attempt the first free ascent of Pico Cao Grande, a 455-meter volcanic tower on the island of Sao Tome, via the 15-pitch route Nubivagant (Wandering in the Clouds).
Suzanna Zak: New Haven, Connecticut
$250 to train for high alpine climbing as an all female team, culminating in climbing the Northeast Face of Pingora and the East Ridge of Wolf’s Head, Cirque of the Towers, Wind River Range.
The Southeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Danny McCracken. Committee members included Dave Giacomin, Garrett Gossett, Tim Fry, Christopher Massey, and Michelle Xue.
Marcela Brock: Powder Springs, Georgia
$700 to climb Alpamayo via the French Direct route and Quitaraju via the North Face Direct route over the course of 2-3 weeks.
Jeffrey Buckley: Damascus, Virginia
$600 for a winter ascent of the Dientes de Navarino in Tierra del Fuego, Chile. Weather permitting, and with some ambitious climbing, a full traverse will be attempted.
Samuel Chaneles: Miami Beach, Florida
$400 to take a team of 3 on a summit attempt of Aconcagua, the highest summit in South America.
Tatiana Faramarzi: Washington, DC
$500 to climb the Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton buttress,
Michelle Farler: Eads, Tennessee
$350 for the dream of sleeping under the desert sky and to learn to jam with all the traddies with hopes of climbing the ever perfect Supercrack.
John Gannon: Fairfax, Virginia
$400 to summit the Grand Teton via the Full Exum route unguided with a group of veterans in early September (6th-10th).
Austin Goff: Winston Salem, North Carolina
$400 to put up new alpine routes in the Chill Lakes area of Cloud Peak Wilderness, Big Horn Mountains, Wyoming. There are no currently documented routes in the area.
Alice Hafer: Las Vegas, Florida
$650 to send the hardest and longest big wall climb that she has ever attempted in in Tsaranoro, Madagascar.
Gage Holbert: Knoxville, Tennessee
$400 for the goal of climbing The Nose on El Capitan in Yosemite in an estimated 4 to 5 days.
Matthew Ireland: Louisville, Kentucky
$400 to attempt the Cirque of the Towers Traverse located in the Wind River Range.
Jessica Linton: Falls Church, Virginia
$500 to establish several rock climbing routes on La Dame du Mali, aka Mount Loura, in the Fouta Djallon region of Guinea.
Jesse McNeill: Chevy Chase, Maryland
$350 to put up a Deep-Water Solo first ascent onsight in the Railay or Tonsai areas of Thailand.
Nathan Olsson: Bethesda, Maryland
$300 to climb multiple Grade IV lines in the South and North Basins on Mt. Katahdin, ME.
Nina Riggio: Atlanta, Georgia
$650 for her goal to climb in the Arrigetch peaks of the Brooks Range, AK, then float 135 miles of the Alatna River to the nearest town of Allakaket.
Austin Schmitz: Brevard, North Carolina
$350 to climb Cathedral Peak in Tuolumne Meadows with his mom.
Alex Vanotti: Durham, North Carolina
$350 to successfully climb the Nose on El Capitan.
Riley West: Arden, North Carolina
$300 to complete a traverse of the Clark Range in Yosemite National Park.
Benjamin Wu: Asheville, North Carolina
$400 to free, in a day, the Beckey-Chouinard route of the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.
The Central Regional Selection Committee was chaired by James Schroeder. Committee members included Ryan Gajewski, Adam Mitchell, and Ryan Maitland.
Benjamin Bamberger: Urbana, Illinois
$600 to climb Tetnuldi Peak in the Svaneti Region of Georgia as part of his research into the history of Georgian mountaineering.
Eric Barnard: Winona, Minnesota
$400 to make a clean ascent of Mescalito on Yosemite’s El Capitan.
James Den Uyl: Holland, Michigan
$300 for a trip to Wyoming’s Grand Teton National Park to climb the CMC Route on Mount Moran and the Upper Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton.
Todd Dohogne: Wildwood, Missouri
$600 to climb Denali’s West Buttress route as a member of an unguided team of three.
Dalan Faulkner: Rowlett, Texas
$400 to enchain three 5.12’s on the three largest peaks (Longs Peak, Chiefs Head, and Mt. Alice) in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park during a 24-hour push.
Anel Guel: Grand Rapids, Michigan
$600 to climb Mount Pisco in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca.
Alexander Hansen: Minneapolis, Minnesota
$400 to climb challenging routes on Mt. Rainier (Liberty Ridge), Dragontail Peak (Triple Couloirs), and Forbidden Peak (West Ridge or Northwest Face) over a seventeen-day period.
Karen Henson: San Antonio, Texas
$400 to travel to Wyoming and attempt to summit the Grand Teton via its Owen-Spalding or Upper Exum route.
Max Kahn: Madison, Wisconsin
$600 to make the first ascent of Paungda Danda in Nepal’s Annapurna Region without the use of fixed gear.
Riley McDonald: Wauwatosa, Wisconsin
$500 to climb the West Ridge of Bugguya (Mt. Hunter) along with several additional routes in the Alaska Range.
Carolyn Rosas: Austin, Texas
$300 for a trip to Joe’s Valley, UT to improve Carolyn’s bouldering skills on classic problems in the area.
Elizabeth Sahagun: Lafayette, Indiana
$400 to climb Mt. Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver and do the Ptarmigan Traverse in the North Cascades.
Kalli Schumacher: Chanhassen, Minnesota
$400 for a two-month alpine rock climbing and mountaineering trip to Sawtooths, Cascades, Bugaboos, and Wind River Range.
Leah Shamblin: Rapid City, South Dakota
$400 to travel to the Shawangunks in New York and learn the art of traditional climbing why exploring her cultural heritage as a Lenape Indian.
Jeffery Simpson: Saint Louis, Missouri
$400 to integrate the Evolution Traverse into a thru-hike of the Sierra High Route in California.
Sean Vallefuoco: Austin, Texas
$300 to make a one-day ascent of Logical Progression on El Gigante in Basaseachi Falls National Park in Chihuahua, Mexico.
The Rocky Mountain Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Mitch Dorsk. Committee members included Byron Harvison, Steve Taylor, Dillon Parker, and TNF athletes Cedar Wright and Savannah Cummins.
Nicole Allen: Golden, Colorado
$685 to Pequeno Alpamayo (AD, 17,618'), Cabeza de condor (AD+, 18,700'), Illimani (21,122') in Bolivia.
Aaron Conley: Arvada Colorado
$250 to attempt the Liberty Ridge on Mt. Rainier.
Mike Coyle: Durango, Colorado
$1,000 to climb the Southwest Ridge of Ama Dablam, located in Nepal’s Khumbu Valley.
Nodin de Saillan: Boulder, Colorado
$500 for a trip to Chamonix to attempt climbs that can be accessed from the Aiguille de Midi lift, which include the "Petite Aiguille Verte," the "Super Couloir," and the "Cosmiques Arete."
Derek DeBruin: Ogden, Utah
$1,000 to attempt the Emperor Face of Mt Robson via Infinite Patience (VI M5 WI5).
Michael Drake: Boulder, Colorado
$350 to return to climb The Nose on El Capitan after an accident on the same route five years ago.
Eliza Earle: Boulder, Colorado
$1,000 to climb Torre Principal by "Ruta Normal" 5.10, Aguja Frey by "Sifuentes Weber" 5.9, and Aguja M2 by "Del Diedro" 5.9 in Frey, Argentina.
Zebediah Engberg: Mount Pleasant, Utah
$800 to establish a new route on the unclimbed southeast face of Tathagata Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Nahanni National Park, Canada.
Jennifer Fischer: Boulder, Colorado
$1,000 to establish multiple trad first ascents in Li Ming, China over the course of a three-week trip as an all-female first ascent team.
Evan Gabrielsen: US Air Force Academy, Colorado
$200 to climb Mt. Robson’s Kain FAce (IV AI3), the North Face of Mt. Bryce (IV 5.7 AI4), and the North Ridge of Mt. Columbia (V 5.7 AI3).
Kimberly Gagnon: Denver, Colorado
$365 to become well-versed in multi-pitch technique and process by leading Theater of Shadows at the City of Rocks, Idaho.
Garrett Gregor: Boulder, Colorado
$200 for a trip to Fontainebleau to climb his first 8B+ and earn international routesetting credentials.
Pitt Grewe: Sandy, Utah
$500 to establish new routes on the granite spires of Ship Island Lake in the Frank Church Wilderness of Idaho.
Jane Jackson: Kelly, Wyoming
$300 to spend ten days climbing on Mt. Hooker in the Wind River range in Wyoming with Dana Larkin, with objectives including Gambling in the Winds (5.12) and Jaded Lady (5.12-).
Grant Kleeves: Ridgway, Colorado
$800 to devote himself to climbing Cerro Torre in El Chalten, Argentina.
Dan Klim: Durango, Colorado
$450 for a month-long ski/splitboard mountaineering project in South America, with objectives including Antuco, Sierra Velluda, Volcan Lanin, Lonqimay, Puyeche, and Volcan Calbuco.
Seth Luedtke: Severance, Colorado
$500 for an alpine-style ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali.
Nathan Mankovich: Fort Collins, Colorado
$250 to attempt to free Father Time on Middle Cathedral.
Hannah Marshall: Ridgway, Colorado
$500 to explore ski mountaineering objectives near the Pika Glacier in Alaska.
Katherine Nelson: Colorado Springs, Colorado
$500 to climb the Beckey-Chouinard route in the Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia.
Bogdan Petre: Boulder, Colorado
$1,000 to climb Chopicalqui in the Cordillera Blanca via the east face direct (6354m, TD) and descend via the southwest ridge.
Peter Stone: Jackson, Wyoming
$450 for a month-long ski/splitboard mountaineering project in South America, with objectives including Antuco, Sierra Velluda, Volcan Lanin, Lonqimay, Puyeche, and Volcan Calbuco.
Dory Trimble: Salt Lake City, Utah
$200 to attempt to free four classic multi-pitch routes in El Potrero Chico: Snot Girlz (7 pitches, 10c), Estrellita (12 pitches, 10d), Space Boyz (11 pitches, 10d), and Treasure of the Sierra Madre (7 pitches, 10c) with Lila Leatherman.
Emilia Wint: Salt Lake City, Utah
$200 to climb The Nose on El Capitan with an all-woman team.
The Western Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Tony Yeary. Committee members included Laurie Berliner, Paul Hendricks, and TNF athletes Dave Allfrey and Peter Croft.
Louie Allen: Bishop, California
$1,000 to climb Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Cayambe, and potentially Antisana via the standard glacier and snow routes in Ecuador.
May Benson-Martin: Berkeley, California
$1,000 to climb the southeast face of the Lotus Flower Tower (V 5.10+ or 5.9 A1) in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada’s Nahanni National Park.
Trevor Bowman: Flagstaff, Arizona
$1,000 to establish a new route up the east face of the Innominate (12,761’) in Wyoming’s Big Horn Mountains.
Benjamin Cumbie: Napa, California
$250 to attempt Val Kilmer (5.11+) on the Angel Wings in the High Sierras with Sean Robison.
Giselle Fernandez: Oxnard, California
$800 for a ten-day trip to the Cordillera Carabaya to attempt new routes on Chilpariti and Screwdriver, two of the most difficult summits in the range.
Remington Franklin: Tucson, Arizona
$1,000 to make the first free ascent of Nubivagant, a 15-pitch, 455m route graded 5.13d/A0 up Pico Cão Grande in São Tomé and Príncipe.
Ash Gambhir: San Diego, California
$500 to climb Mt. Rainier via the Liberty Ridge with Ross Leone.
Andrew Hall: Santa Barbara, California
$300 to attempt the northeast face of He-Devil, the tallest mountain in the Seven Devil’s Range in Idaho.
Travis Heidepriem: San Francisco, California
$1,000 to attempt the Porter Route (VI 5.9 A4) on the Northwest Face of Mt. Asgard on Baffin Island.
Alexandra Hill: Davis, California
$1,000 to climb the Exum Ridge in Grand Teton National Park with Tatiana Faramarzi, as well as summiting the Middle Teton via the North Ridge and Symmetry Spire via the Southwest Ridge.
Ethan Higgins: Prescott, Arizona
$400 for a trip to the Bugaboos in BC to improve efficiency on long alpine objectives, including climbing the Northeast Ridge on Bugaboo Spire and the Snow Patch route on Snow Patch Spire.
Kevin Kent: Flagstaff, Arizona
$1,000 to make a first ascent on either Peak Slesova or Peak 1000 Years of Russian Christianity in the Karavshin area of Kyrgyzstan.
Crystal Lie: Hermosa Beach, California
$400 to project the 5.13a lines - “L’Escamaria” in Siurana and “Tequila Sunrise” in Chulilla in an effort to break into the 5.13 sport grade.
Astra Lincoln: Mammoth Lakes, California
$1,000 for a human-powered climbing tour through Alaska, the Yukon, and British Columbia, including roughly 3,000 miles of cycling and over 100,000 feet of vertical gain.
Josef Maier: San Luis Obispo, California
$250 to free climb Freerider on El Capitan, preceded by a series of climbs in Yosemite, the Northern Sierra, and the Needles to prepare and train.
Marcus McCoy: Nevada City, California
$250 to complete four multi-pitch trad climbs on the Watchtower, a subpeak of Tower Peak, in the northern boundary of Yosemite National Park and Hoover Wilderness.
Dane Mulligan: Rancho Mission Viejo, California
$800 to summit Denali via the West Buttress as part of a recovery from a broken back and in partnership with a friend climbing the Seven Summits.
Peter Nelson: Santa Cruz, California
$350 to train for Astroman (11c, Yosemite) by climbing a series of increasingly challenging crack and multi-pitch routes, including Catchy Corner, Book of Job, Moratorium, Voyager, and the Rostrum.
William Nicewonger: San Diego, California
$500 to attempt a single-day free ascent of Time Wave Zero (5.12a, 2,300’) in El Potrero Chico with Justin Wallace.
Jason Ogasian: South Lake Tahoe, California
$800 to climb the West Buttress of Denali.
Leslie Pace: Quincy, California
$300 to become a competent and confident alpine adventurer through summiting all the 14,000’ peaks in California.
Emily Reinsel: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to establish a new route up the east face of the Innominate (12,761’) in Wyoming’s Big Horn Mountains.
Caitlin Roake: Stanford, California
$300 to run the 72-mile High Sierra Trail and attempt to set an all-female Fastest Known Time.
Will Starks: Truckee, California
$250 to attempt an onsight of Positive Affect (19 pitches, 5.12b) on Arco Iris in Cochamo, Chile, as well as alpine objectives in El Chalten, Argentina.
Cathy Tseng: South San Francisco, California
$350 to complete four multi-pitch trad climbs on the Watchtower, a subpeak of Tower Peak, in the northern boundary of Yosemite National Park and Hoover Wilderness.
Nicholas Willhite: San Diego, California
$350 to backpack and climb six 14,000’ peaks in California, including Mt. Langley, Mt. Muir, Mt. Whitney, Mt. Russell, Mt. Tyndall, and Mt. Williamson.
Hyo Jung (Nicole) Yu: Los Angeles, California
$1,000 to climb the Cassin Route on the Northeast Face of Piz Badile in Switzerland (800m, 22 pitches, 6a).
The Northwestern Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Erin Schneider. Committee members included Andrew Puhl, Jeremy Bowler, and Ally Imbody.
Jeff Aslan: Bellingham, Washington
$700 to climb in the San Carlos de Bariloche and Cochamo regions in Patagonia with his wife Annie.
Robert Bechaud: McCall, Idaho
$410 to explore climbing potentia in several relatively unknown climbing areas in the Mexican state of Guanajuato.
Nate Bender: Missoula, Montana
$400 to attempt to set the fastest known time for summiting the 27 peaks in Montana taller than 12,000’, a route encompassing roughly 85 miles and 42,000’ of elevation gain.
Erin Burk: Bend, Oregon
$400 to climb the NNW Ridge of Parabola (III, 5.7) and the South Arete of Xanadu (IV, 5.8) in the Arrigetch Peaks of the Brooks Range, Alaska, then float 135 miles of the Alatna River to the town of Allakaket.
Samuel Carter: Spokane Valley, Washington
$600 to attempt “Exocet” on Cerro Standhardt or “The Ragni Route” on Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Alana Chapko: Seattle, Washington
$300 to climb the Kain Face of Mt. Robson in British Columbia.
Lindsay Chutas: Spokane, Washington
$300 to climb the Moses Tooth in Alaska via the Ham and Eggs and Shaken Not Stirred Routes.
Zach Clanton: Anchorage, Alaska
$400 to attempt the first ascent of the Radelet Arete on Radelet Peak in Canada’s Yukon Territory.
Auri Clark: Juneau, Alaska
$400 for an all-female expedition to complete first ascents of two unnamed and unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Icefield.
Ian Dodds: Bozeman, Montana
$500 to attempt the east face of Fitzroy, a first free ascent of the west/northwest face of Piergiorgio, and/or the first ascent of the east buttress of Marconi Sur in El Chalten, Argentina.
Brandon DuBois: Renton, Washington
$500 to summit Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Cayambe, and potentially Antisana in Ecuador.
Patrick Duffy: Cosmopolis, Washington
$200 to climb Mt. Rainier via the Liberty Ridge route.
Sam Eurich: Ketchum, Idaho
$500 for a 400-mile, 5-week packrafting traverse of the Brooks Range in Alaska, with numerous climbing objectives in the Arrigetch Region.
Bradley Feddersen: Seattle, Washington
$400 to summit the tallest point of El Altar - El Obispo, a rarely-accessed ice route on a remote peak in Ecuador.
Brian Fedigan: Boise, Idaho
$300 to attempt the Grand Traverse in Grand Teton National Park in under three days.
Matias Francis: Bainbridge Island, Washington
$300 to attempt the North Couloir on Mini Moonflower, the SW Ridge on Mt. Francis, and the West Face of Kahiltna Queen in Alaska.
Ryan Griffiths: Bozeman, Montana
$400 to attempt the second ascent of Happy Trio, Mt Asperity (ED- 5.10a WI3, 950m) and ascents of other routes in the Waddington Range of British Columbia.
James Gustafson: Homer, Alaska
$300 to establish a new route up the east ridge of Radelet Peak in the Yukon Territories.
Matthew Jeffries: Spokane, Washington
$300 to climb the Moses Tooth in Alaska via the Ham and Eggs and Shaken Not Stirred Routes.
Seth Kane: Bozeman, Montana
$400 to attempt alpine routes of the D to TD+ grade range in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru to increase experience on large-scale, technical alpine terrain.
Patrick Kao: Seattle, Washington
$300 to climb the South Face of Mt. Waddington in Western British Columbia.
Lila Leatherman: Corvallis, Oregon
$300 to attempt to free four classic multi-pitch routes in El Potrero Chico: Snot Girlz (7 pitches, 10c), Estrellita (12 pitches, 10d), Space Boyz (11 pitches, 10d), and Treasure of the Sierra Madre (7 pitches, 10c) with Dory Trimble.
Rachel McCaffrey: Seattle Washington
$300 for a week of alpine climbing in the Bugaboos, with objectives including the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, Southwest Ridge of Snowpatch Spire, West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower, South Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.
Robin Pendery: Enumclaw, Washington
$300 to climb the Southwest Ridge of Peak 11,300 (Grade V, 5.8 M4) in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska.
Nicholas Puma: North Pole, Alaska
$300 to summit Mt. Bona (16,421’) of the St. Elias Mountains in eastern Alasia via the Glacier Climb route.
Benjamin Rogers: Sandpoint, Idaho
$200 to summit Mt. Hood in Oregon.
Jonathan Skeen: Portland, Oregon
$600 to climb the North Face of Mt. Kenya while documenting endangered plants and wildlife as well as receding equatorial glaciers.
Tyler Smallwood: Edmonds, Washington
$300 to attempt the Evolution Traverse in the Eastern Sierras of California.
Robin Smith: Seattle, Washington
$490 for three days of instruction from She Moves Mountains, a female-led guiding company in Oregon, to become a competent sport climber and leader and to share her knowledge with other women.
Ivy Spiegel Ostrom: Leavenworth, Washington
$300 for a two-week trip to the Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia to climb classic alpine trad routes and splitter cracks including the Beckey-Chouinard Route and Sunshine Crack.
Nick Sweeney: Spokane, Washington
$500 to attempt Urus Este (5420m), Ishinca (5530m), and Tocllaraju (6032m) in the Ishinca Valley of the Cordillera Blanca.
Becky Switzer: Bozeman, Montana
$300 to free Logical Progression (28 pitches, 5.13-) on El Gigante in northern Mexico.
Abraham Traven: Boise, Idaho
$300 to develop a new crag or multi-pitch route near the city of Shigu in Yunnan, China.
The Ski/Snowboard Mountaineering Selection Committee was chaired by Mike Marolt. Committee members included Drew Seessel, Charlotte Fox, and TNF athlete Mark Synnott.
Jason Burleson: Burtonsville, Maryland
$200 to ski Villarrica Volcano in Chile and complete a rope-solo ascent of Sinestro Total (5.10+, 8 pitches) on Torre Principal.
David Cahill: North Ferrisburgh, Vermont
$200 to climb and ski Mt. Rainier with Nick Williams, Kurt Weiss, and James Turrito.
Brett Carroll: Salt Lake City, Utah
$500 to attempt to climb and ski the East Ridge on Mt. Logan.
Nolan Hurd: Golden, Colorado
$500 to climb and ski Artesonraju in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, with secondary objectives including climbing and skiing Huascarán Sur or Pisco Oeste, and climb Alpamayo.
Jamie “Coby” Jacobus: Rye, New Hampshire
$500 for a ski-mountaineering trip to Chamonix with the goal of skiing steep coulouirs, including the Passerelle Coulouir, Glacier Rond, Cosmiques Couloir, or others, and to ski the Classic Haute Route.
Katie McCaffrey: Auke Bay, Alaska
$800 for an all-female ski and snowboard mountaineering project attempting two first ascents of unnamed and unclimbed peaks on the Stikine Icefield in southeast Alaska.
Trevor Summerfield: Reno, Nevada
$200 to climb the Hotlum Glacier Route on the northeast side of Mt. Shasta, and ski the more eastern aspect of Shasta down the Wintun Glacier.
Eduardo van Rhede van der Kloot: Old Greenwich, Connecticut
$500 to climb and ski a new line in the Niut Range in British Columbia.
Arthur Whitehead: Golden, Colorado
$500 to climb and ski Artesonraju in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, with secondary objectives including climbing and skiing Huascarán Sur or Pisco Oeste, and climb Alpamayo.
Keatan Williams: Bozeman, Montana
$100 for a single-day ascent of the Liberty Ridge route on Mt. Rainier with a ski descent of the Emmons Glacier.
The 2018 North American Ice Climbing Championships will take place March 16-17 in Fenton, Michigan. The Championships are open to all athletes with experience in ice climbing or drytooling. Previous competition experience is not required. Spectator entrance is free.
Interested in joining the fun? Learn the details.
The AAC is pleased to announce the recipients of the 2018 Cutting Edge Grant. This grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2018 grant cycle, the AAC received awarded $20,000 to four recipients:
Kurt Ross ($6,000) to visit a seldom traveled region within the eastern Pakistani
Karakoram to establish a first ascent on the unclimbed peak, Karmading Brakk via
the Lachit Valley. This 6000m peak is an untouched gem, so striking it certainly
would have been previously attempted had it not been for historically restrictive
military control in the area. With these military restricts lifted, and the government
currently granting permits to climbers, Kurt and his team are ready for action.
Alan Rousseau ($6,000) to attempt the remote north face of Chiling II (6400m), in
Zanskar-Kashmir- Kishtwar region of Himal India. With a difficult, mostly
unsupported approach and hard climbing at altitude, this objective represents a
step forward in Alan’s climbing and likely one of the harder north faces he and his
team have ever attempted.
Whitney Clark ($5,000) to lead an all-woman team to the Zanskar-Kashmir-
Kishtwar region of Himal India to attempt the main summit of Arjuna’s (6230m)
West Face. Their chosen route takes the team up a steep 1400m unclimbed buttress, which lies to the left of all current established routes. The peak is accessed via a complex icefall, followed by technical high-alpine climbing. It is their goal to climb the route free and operate in a fast, light ethic.
Ryan Johnson ($3,000) to travel to the Alaska Range to attempt the East Face of Mt. Hayes (4215m). Ryan attempted the line in 2013 but extreme cold and illness
shut down the expedition. The line on Hayes is primarily an ice hose, with a 600m
steep mixed section.
The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely. For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit: https://www.globalrescue.com/
The American Alpine Club and Jones Snowboards are proud to announce two new grants that encourage human-powered exploration of the winter wilderness by motivated amateur backcountry snowboarders!
The Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant & the Jones Live Like Liz Award look to support multi-day splitboarding expeditions with strong exploratory and adventure components. The project objective may focus on a single descent/summit or a tour/traverse of a region. Each grant recipient will recieve a $1,500 cash award plus a Jones splitboard, skins and backcountry touring backpack.
The Jones Live Like Liz Award is open to only female applicants and honors Liz Daley, a Jones ambassador and aspiring mountain guide who was killed in an avalanche accident in Argentina in 2014.
The applications are accepted now through January 30th, 2018. Jones Snowboards company founder Jeremy Jones and Jones brand managers will review all applications and select the recipients. Applicants must be AAC members.
Learn all the details and submit your application here. You can also check out the Jones blog.
We’re proud to celebrate the 20,000 milestone this month. If we could sit around a campfire swapping stories with every single one of you, we would. Together, we accomplish more. We defend wild places. We develop and teach safe climbing standards. We host events that welcome new climbers into our fold. Below, meet 20 of your fellow members. We asked them to tell us about their motivations and dreams, and their responses give us a peek into the wonderful and diverse community we've become
What would your perfect climb look like?
A 5.9 multi-pitch route in a remote area of the world with some of the best people I've ever met.
What do you look for in a climbing partner/mentor?
Someone who is driven as well as encouraging. Someone who doesn't take things too seriously. Someone who believes in me and allows me to believe in them.
Where did you learn to climb how did that influence you?
Carder Rock in Great Falls, Virginia and the Sport Rock Climbing team... but where I really fell in love with climbing was Vietnam. I worked as a guide for Asia Outdoors (formerly Slo Pony Adventures). The job gave me exposure to people who really loved this weird sport. It got me outside and it got me scared and elated and amazed. We bonded as a team in a way I've never experienced before. I've been chasing that feeling and that experience ever since. Nothing will ever measure up and maybe that's ok.
Why are you an AAC member?
Being an AAC member lets me connect to climbing on a larger level. My membership supports grants that help others live their dreams and provides countless opportunities to meet climbers from all over the globe. Most importantly, I get to be part of a national voice that speaks out on behalf of climbers. Together we’re stronger— I believe deeply in this.
What has climbing taught you about life?
Life is full of adversity, climbing teaches you how to deal with it.
What is one way you give back to the climbing community?
I’m proud to be part of the Philadelphia Chapter of The American Alpine Club. We have been putting on fun events aiming to connecting climbers in our area. While the pursuit of climbing is individual, we are all supported by the bedrock of our passionate community. I have so much love for the climbing community.
Why do you climb?
I grew up reading about the adventures of explorers such as Roald Amundsen, Sir Edmund Hillary and Reinhold Messner. Along with the spirit of exploration and adventure, I have always had an immense love and admiration for nature and the outdoors, especially rocks, mountains, snow, and ice. Climbing is the one activity where my love for adventure and exploration combines with my love for the outdoors. To me, climbing is both a mental and spiritual rejuvenation session, as well as a physical challenge. It is a medium that provides self-actualization and makes me want to be a better version of myself, which is why I climb.
How has the AAC changed since you became a member?
When I became an AAC member, there was a no San Diego chapter. Since then, I think AAC has worked very hard to create more engagement opportunities for new and experienced climbers. There has been a strong push to develop and promote regional chapters, which are in turn putting together various events in their respective regions. The AAC Live Your Dream Grant also helped encourage and promote climbing, and I’ve noticed more AAC conservation efforts and partnerships.
What’s one way you give back to the climbing community?
I give back to the climbing community by encouraging, coaching, and climbing with people who are passionate and aspire to learn about various forms of climbing. I do this with our chapter clinics, the Heroes Project, and Outdoor Outreach. In the San Diego chapter, we teach the Gym to Crag, Intro to Trad Climbing, and Intro to Ice Climbing clinics. The Heroes Project empowers injured war veterans through physical and emotional training with expedition level climbs, and Outdoor Outreach provides an avenue for underprivileged youth get outside and learn about climbing.
Why are you an AAC Member?
I am a big believer in partnerships. Not only does the AAC celebrate climbing partnerships, it is also a critical member of a bigger community: the outdoor industry. By being a member of the AAC the needs of my climbing partners and I can be amplified. It is critical that climbers are partnering with all the groups out there that can have a direct impact on our sport.
Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?
I learned to climb in New Jersey. And if you can climb there then you, too, can climb K2 (or Everest or the Matterhorn or Alpamayo).
What's one way you give back to the climbing community?
Well, I am pretty lucky as I founded a guide service then a climbing gym company. Earth Treks has not only taught hundreds of thousands of people to climb (filling their souls with all the goodness of climbing), but we've used the power of our community to fund various non-profits and other super cool initiatives. We've raised over one million dollars for cancer research and crusaders, as well as hundreds of thousands for non-profits like Big City Mountaineers, Paradox Sports, the AAC, and the Access Fund.
What has climbing taught you about life?
Climbing has taught me that you are forever going to fall; no matter if you are a new climber whose arms are pumped on a 5.6 or a pro climber projecting her 5.15 route, no matter if you are the youngest or oldest, slowest or fastest at what you do in life, no matter how famous, successful, or perfect you seem to be, you are going to fall sometimes.
Climbing has taught me to welcome the challenge of getting back up, accept the imperfections and try again. You must be gracious with yourself, listening to your body and your mind. With every step we take, every crux we encounter, every decision we must make, we must move forward. Progress at your own pace but always keep falling, getting back up, and moving forward.
Where did you learn to climb and what has that taught you?
As a Midwestern climber I initially learned to climb at Devils Lake in Wisconsin but the majority of my climbing throughout the years has taken place at the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. I was born and raised in Chicago and surrounded by metal mountains, unfortunately my access to wild spaces was a bit limited. Midwestern climbers are Weekend Warriors, sometimes traveling seven or eight hours to climb for a day and a half. These trips to Devils Lake or the Red River Gorge taught me to find climbing partners who liked to be silly, try hard, and laugh a lot. They also taught me to enjoy every route that I climbed and enjoy my surroundings even when conditions were bad or the trip wasn't going the way I'd planned.
Never take your ability to climb or your access to the crag for granted. We are so lucky to live the lives we lead.
What’s one thing you do to give back to the climbing community?
I've made it my mission to bridge two communities that are very special to me; my rock climbing community and the culturally rich and wonderfully diverse community that I've inherited as an African American and person of color. Most recently I've been working on creating welcoming and accessible opportunities for communities of color to engage in climbing. I've also been using my background in film and photography as a way to help craft narratives that empower women and people of color in backcountry.
We are stronger together and must continue to seek to understand each other. Look for similarities between your brothers and sisters and celebrate the differences.
What has climbing taught you about life?
I started climbing late in my life... I was 44 and took a course with my 18-year-old daughter. We were hooked and spent every free moment on the rocks together. At age 58 I was diagnosed with a rare and aggressive form of breast cancer. I underwent 35 rounds of chemotherapy and a complete mastectomy. I was unable to climb for almost 2 years. After healing from surgery and getting some strength back I began climbing with a group of young women who were interested in overcoming a fear of lead climbing. something I had battled with myself. I took to the gym with enthusiasm but was confronted with a "new normal" for my body and my mind. My body had changed post-surgery and in my mind I was no longer invincible... the cancer had brought new visitors into my consciousness: doubt, fear, caution. But I was patient with my body and my mind, with the help of friends, I climbed, got scared and climbed through my fear. I learned to adapt to the physical changes cancer had brought to my body and adjusted. If Tommy Caldwell could do it with a missing finger I could do it without my b**bs! So climbing has taught me to meet and accept my fears, the changes in body and mind that life brings. It has brought me an inner strength that nothing else could. Someday I am hoping to share this with other breast cancer patients.... women on the rocks, using their bodies in powerful ways that they thought they never could again.
What do you look for in a partner?
A sense of humor. Definitely a must on the long alpine routes!
What is one way you give back to the climbing community?
Mostly donations to AAC and Access Fund. I hope to organize a Breast Cancer Climbing organization to support women stretching their boundaries and facing fear.
Why are you an AAC member?
Initially because I had to be to compete in the UIAA Youth World Cup last year, but I feel like the club is very important for all climbers to be a part of since they work so hard for climbers, protecting all types of climbing and climbing areas. As a young climber I am very grateful that they are actively protecting all the types of climbing and all the places that I climb at and in doing so, will make it possible for me to continue to climb as I get older. Plus, the AAC donates poop bags all over the place and that is awesome!
What does your perfect climb look like?
It starts in the early morning, driving up to go climbing with trustworthy, skilled, good friends that know what they are doing. Going up the wall swapping leads, on pitches that are just above our comfortable onsight level, then summiting and looking out over the valley and seeing the car as a little dot in the forest.
What do you look for in a climbing partner?
I look for a person who knows the ropes and is a good person to hang out with. A climbing partner should be willing to wake up early and go climbing for the whole day, going out in the cold to ice climb, suffering through a difficult route and laughing about if afterward. I am very lucky to have such a cool mentor for climbing who is also my dad, so I was privileged enough to learn at a very young age and have someone who I am very close with to teach me and climb with. Having my dad teach me to climb is truly amazing. I am able to grow in the coolest sport with my dad and it has made us a lot closer.
What's one way you give back to the climbing community?
I share my excitement and psyche for climbing whenever I can. I always clean up the crags, leaving them better than when we got there. I pack out my poop!
Why are you an AAC member?
I remember the first time I went to Jackson Hole to climb The Grand with my family. We stayed at the AAC Climber's Lodge, and ended up spending most of the time in the library reading old climbing magazines, and being inspired by old trip reports from the 70's. I realized that there was a vast amount of history in climbing, and now I realize it is important to protect that history, as well as the climbing areas that we climb at in our everyday lives. The AAC plays an important role in doing that and it is why it's important to donate our time and money to this organization.
Where did you learn to climb and how did that influence you?
Being from St Louis, I learned to climb in Southern Illinois and Arkansas, mostly as a way to enjoy nature and get away from the city. The lush forests in the midwest will always have a special place in my heart. Learning to climb in the midwest has taught me a lot, like how to build fires in the rain... but also that these climbing areas are finite and they may not be around forever. We had only a couple areas to climb, legally, and we cherished those areas and took care of them as best as we could.
What's one way you give back to the climbing community?
As the owner of a rock climbing guide service, Denver Mountain Guiding, I feel that it is my responsibility to teach people about all aspects of climbing, from how to belay to picking up trash. It is the stewardship that is going to make climbing sustainable here on the Front Range of Colorado. I am also able to donate my time though volunteering my time guiding for the AAC.
Why are you an AAC member?
I am a member of AAC because of their support for conservation, advocacy, education, and research. The more we educate ourselves about the broader context of climbing, the better we can better protect and conserve the places we care about. My membership allows me to apply my Ph.D. toward my passion.
Why do you climb?
I climb for mental clarity, challenge, teamwork, and connection to place and the environment. Climbing allows me to sharpen my mind for the work that I do during the day.
What is one way you give back to the climbing community?
American Indians & climbers have had significant conflict over climbing of sacred landmarks in historical territories of the tribe. These conflicts still exist today and many have yet to be resolved. I am a climber and I am from the Navajo Nation. I see these identities as an opportunity to use my membership is to advocate for a climbing practices and cultures that respects these sacred areas. I believe that taking steps to actively engage with resolving these historical conflicts are now more important than ever. The current threats to public lands climbers and tribes find themselves on the same side of protecting areas that are rich in climbing and cultural heritage. I believe that it is an opportunity to build bridges.
Why are you an AAC member?
I am a proud member of the American Alpine Club because of the wide range of opportunities it provides for climbers and adventurers. Whether it’s sharing your epic climbing photos in the annual Guidebook to Membership, receiving a little extra funding for your climbing expeditions through the Live Your Dream grant, climbing and partying alongside your favorite pros at the Craggin’ Classic events, or snagging discounts on that new Patagonia puffy, The AAC has something for climbers of all skill levels. (Plus, my mom was thrilled about the $12,500 rescue coverage.)
Why do you climb?
Growing up as an awkward and introverted person, I was always afraid to try new things, push myself out of my comfort zone, and especially meet new people. Rock climbing has become an outlet for me to do all of those things at once while taking me to places I never thought were possible. After years of feeling out of place and like I don't belong, I finally feel like I've found "my people", and I have never been happier. I love how a quick exchange of words at the gym can turn into a lifelong climbing partner. The fantastic friendships I've made, the incredibly beautiful places I've traveled, and the newfound confidence I have will stay with me my entire life and that is why I love climbing!
Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?
I learned to rock climb in Minnesota, where there isn't a huge climbing community and there aren't a whole lot of places to go climbing outdoors (not near Minneapolis, anyways). Despite that, I had a solid group of coworkers who would take me climbing outdoors about once a week and show me the ropes. Two months after stepping into my first pair of climbing shoes, I said goodbye to everything and everyone I had known my entire life and moved out West where the climbing possibilities are endless. Learning to climb in the Midwest really made me appreciate the incredible access we have to the outdoors and the climbing community out West!
Why are you an AAC member?
I'm an AAC member because I love the community. I love getting together with other climbers who feel most at home in the outdoors. I love hearing about others' experiences and passions. And I truly appreciate the spaces that the AAC offers for us to connect and learn together to be safe and responsible climbers. (Also, the rescue insurance.)
What has climbing taught you about life?
Climbing has shown me that there's more than one way to approach or solve a problem, and that everyone has something valuable to teach and to share, no matter their experience or level of expertise.
What do you look for in a climbing partner?
The trifecta: a delicate balance of patience, encouragement, and goading (used sparingly, when I'm being a weenie). Also, I think that the best partner is someone that you share goals with, someone who understands and accepts both your personal limits and their own, and of course, someone that always shows up when they say they will.
Why are you an AAC member?
Community, education, and inspiration are the three main reasons I have been an AAC member for the past five years. I feel more connected to the group by attending meetups, stewardship events, and through digital connections with other members promoted by the AAC. The Alpine Club promotes my intellectual development as a climber with the publication Accidents in North American Mountaineering, and with educational campaigns to develop universal standards in climbing systems to promote safety throughout our community. I derive inspiration from the stories in the AAJ and the opportunity to dream up big objectives through the grant opportunities offered by the club.
Why do you climb?
The quiet moments in the sun on a belay ledge looking over the endless utopia of the Canyonlands. The taste of a burger in my greasy palms at the Mobil after a day of pinching granite knobs and splashing through swimming holes in the Tuolumne river. Sipping a beer on the bumper of a friend’s car in the parking lot of the Tennessee Wall while she regales us with comical anecdotes of her misadventures. Looking back at my belayer who smiles and pays out slack, feeling the reliance on one another before tiptoeing up a delicate pitch on El Capitan. Because I know that I get one life to experience and I want to take as much of the world in as possible while am here. I want to breathe life into every moment. For these moments and thousands of others, that is why I climb.
What do you look for in a partner?
I like to climb with everyone because each person has something new to teach me. Learning does not require that another climber be stronger or more experienced than me. Strong partnerships provide great opportunities for growth, but I also cherish the times with less seasoned climbers who get a radiant thrill from the experience and remind me of why I climb in the first place. The optimal climbing partner is someone whose stoke gets me excited to push past my comfort zone and whose charisma inspires presence in every infinite detail of the process.
Why are you an AAC member?
I see community as one of the most important and value parts of climbing. It allows us to share inspiration and knowledge, to find likeminded partners and to try hard in remote places knowing that we are not alone in our pursuit of the vertical. The AAC is our community organization in the US and they do a great job of filling that role. That is why I am a member.
Why do you climb?
I see any given route as a culmination of experience, physical training, exploration and mental preparation. Whether on an unclimbed alpine face in the Karakoram, an overhanging mixed route in Canada or a splitter in Yosemite it is the moments of calm composure in challenging terrain, when all of those four elements come together, that keep me coming back and keep me psyched.
What has climbing taught you about life?
At this point I have spent more time climbing than doing just about anything else in life. And in turn pretty much everything in life has turned into an analog of climbing... Big work contracts are just big expeditions, relationships are partnerships, long hard days of work are long days in the alpine... and to be honest, that perspective has worked our pretty well. So you might say, climbing has taught me much of what I know.
How has the AAC changed since you became a member?
I appreciate that AAC has been focusing more on education and diversity of its members. Responding to policy issues of the day, such as national parks has also been a great undertaking I have seen AAC pursue successfully.
Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?
I began learning rock climbing from the AAC Section Chair in Washington DC and it grew from there to eventually submitting the Seven Summits. The continued support of the AAC and its members has inspired me, guided me, and helped me achieve my goals.
What’s one way you give back to the climbing community?
I volunteer as the social chair for the Washington DC Section, organizing events for AAC members and helping to have AAC presence in the local community. I enjoy giving back to the climbing community what AAC has given me as a climber.
Why are you an AAC member?
I used to just say "rescue insurance" when people asked this question and leave it at that, but in the last couple of years I've gotten to know so many amazing people and formed so many strong friendships and partnerships through the AAC and the climbing community that you could completely take away all of the rescue benefits (but please don't!) and I wouldn't even give the slightest consideration to cancelling my membership in what has become almost like a family to me.
What does your ideal climb look like?
One pitch of WI2-3 hero ice straight out of the parking lot, then a few miles of dry, runnable slot canyon dead-ending in a 20m-long stem chimney which leads to some 4th-class scrambling to gain a long, 5.6 knifeblade ridge to a striking summit in the middle of nowhere- all fast and light, solo. Since I'm dreaming, it'd be great to have a martini waiting for me at the top...
Where did you learn to climb and how did it influence you?
I learned basic climbing movement at my home gym back in the flatlands (shout-out to Climb Time Indy!), and a lot of my early outdoor experience with gear and rope systems came on a few early trips to the red rock country of the American Southwest, but I consider the Cascades to be my home range. I'm definitely of a firm belief that the Cascades are home to some of the best alpine training ground in the U.S., and I never would have felt confident venturing into the big mountains elsewhere or into vertical ice climbing without a few seasons’ worth of experience on those peaks.
Why are you an AAC member?
I joined in 2008 at the Mount Washington Valley ice festival because I saw how the AAC brings climbers together. The club promotes both aspiring climbers and helps the truly dedicated full-time climber. Through the club, I’ve gotten to the 2012 Yosemite Valley International Climber's Meet, won a Live Your Dream Grant to climb Denali in 2015, and was part of the AAC delegation to the 2015 Alpine Club of Iran and Armenia exchange in the Caucuses. Besides rubbing elbows with legends like Lynn Hill, Mark Twight, and Fred Beckey at AAC social events like the Annual Dinner, the club has connected me with some truly wonderful people to share a rope and draw squiggly lines with in backcountry powder.
What do you look for in a climbing partner?
Fun. Someone who loves traditional climbing, doesn’t mind long approaches, likes ice climbing, and would consider a full on hard mountaineering objective, complete with a ski approach, technical rock and ice climbing, and a technical ski descent. I love climbing with both men and women for different reasons. Women for the sisterhood, men for the different qualities they bring to the partnership. I also love climbing with beginners, because they remind me of that self-discovery and enthusiasm for climbing. It helps me refresh why I started climbing and to keep setting new goals.
What’s one thing you do to give back to the climbing community?
How about two? I’m on the board of directors and am a volunteer expedition guide for Ascend: Leadership Through Athletics, a US-based non-profit that empowers Afghan women through mountaineering. Their stories are incredibly inspiring for anyone who has lived through circumstances beyond their control and how they persist in creating a better community and better connection to each other. I also lead REI’s Outdoor Programs for the co-op Sierra market. My amazing team of 25 guides host classes and experiences to help people obtain the knowledge and skills to get outside responsibly and confidently. We also partner with nonprofits and like-minded groups to grow the outdoor community and support creating access to public lands for climbing, hiking, and other human-powered adventures.
Why are you an AAC member?
I am an AAC member so I can meet more climbing partners, advance my techniques, and climb with like-minded individuals.
Why do you climb?
I climb for the mental and physical experience it offers me. When I am on the rock life slows down and I feel at peace. I become more aware of myself and focused on the present. Through each climbing session I discover more about myself: how I react to failure, how I act during a difficult section, and how I can improve myself in this process. Climbing has helped me cope through the time of my mother's sickness and passing. Routes made sense, they were problems I could solve, and cancer I could not. Contorting my body in different ways, being creative, & ascending a problem through specific movements is fascinating to me. Some routes demand grace and others demand strength. My favorite aspect of rock climbing is being able to constantly challenge myself mentally and physically in order to reach my goals. Every route has something to teach. The motto is to always challenge yourself in order to grow and become the best and most versatile version of yourself.
How has the AAC changed since you became a member?
The AAC has noticeably become even more involved in protecting climbing landscapes. As times call for more environmental protection and advocacy, the AAC adapts and takes action. They have also become one of the best resources for climbing education and safety.
Why are you an AAC member?
The AAC is an incredible resource for every outdoor activity, from climbing education and current events to lodging, gear discounts, trip planning, and meeting new friends.
Why do you climb?
Nowhere have the chasms of my mind been more opened, challenged, and fulfilled than in silent suspension between earth and atmosphere on the mountains, cliffs, and glaciers that nature provides us to explore. Like Thoreau, I want to live deep and learn what life has to teach, and whether it proves to be mean or sublime, I want to know it by experience.
What would your perfect climb look like?
I used to think that the most beautiful climbs were perfectly aesthetic overhanging lines where there were just enough holds that the climb was barely possible for me. Now I am more fascinated by alpine climbs where harsh conditions, fractured rock and ice, and exhaustion can play just as much of a role as the climbing itself, and where epic experiences are a sort of indescribable reward. As I have gained more experience and as I keep hoping for more free time, I have come to really love and appreciate every climbing experience, from simple bouldering excursions to incredible alpine adventures.
Why are you an AAC member?
I started out as an AAC member as a way to give back to the community. As I matured and gained more experience climbing, I recognized the value of my membership meant a lot more than just a way to donate my time and energy. I have continued to stay a member because the AAC brings the community together as we all have similar passions to be outside. The community aspect is particularly pertinent due to the current access issues we're facing in the US; furthermore, a community, such as one fostered by the AAC, strengthens the voice we have to ensure not only we can climb on these lands but so can generations to come.
Why do you climb?
I climb because I have a way to feel when I can’t feel. I've dealt with some form of mental illness for the past decade, and when my bipolar or eating disorder leave me feeling numb, I divert to climbing to help me experience ALL emotions: happiness, anger, frustration, sadness, excitement. Climbing helps me express an infinite amount of emotions, but all of the emotions combine to make me feel whole again. Climbing helps me feel the emotions that cease to exist with anything else I partake in. Climbing is my way of feeling.
Where did you learn to climb and how did that influence you?
I learned to climb in a gym when I was fifteen years old. Originally I played soccer, but one too many concussions later left me yearning for a new passion since contact sports were said and done. I found myself outside after six months of climbing in the gym, and this was when I knew climbing would stick with me for my lifetime. Although my passion for climbing is outside, learning to climb in a gym has given me an appreciation for the limited opportunities I get to be outside since I live in Chicago. In addition, it has inspired me to hopefully inspire others to get outside and learn to love something that genuinely can always get you outside of your comfort zone.
*In March of 2018, Savannah passed away in a climbing accident. She is dearly missed by AAC staff, friends, and the climbing community. Read more.
Why do you climb?
I climb because it is my passion. It is not what I do, but who I am. It has defined me since 1972. Climbing has taken me to places I would never have gone otherwise, not just physically, but emotionally, spiritually and mentally. Climbing strips away the interference and forces you to focus on the moment; to live in the present with commitment and passion not often found or required in life outside of the vertical world.
What has climbing taught you about life?
Climbing has taught me that life takes practice, patience and perseverance; and even then, success is not guaranteed. I believe it's not about how many climbs you've done, but how you did those climbs. So too in life; it's not just about being alive, but living with passion and integrity.
How has the AAC changed since you became a member?
The AAC has noticeably become even more involved in protecting climbing landscapes. As times call for more environmental protection and advocacy, the AAC adapts and takes action. They have also become one of the best resources for climbing education and safety.
The American Alpine Club and The North Face are proud to announce the recipients of 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $70,000 was awarded to 144 individuals from across the nation, making 2017 the most successful year in the history of the Live Your Dream grant program. Nearly 1 out of every 3 applicants received an award. See the complete listing of grant recipients and their trips.
The climbing grant for climbers, by climbers, the Live Your Dream grant seeks to fund every-day adventurers looking take their abilities to the next level. Be it transitioning out of the gym or establishing a first ascent in the greater ranges, the purpose of this grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for mountain adventurers—to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.
The Live Your Dream grant is powered nationally by The North Face and supported locally through generous contributions from the Hans Saari Fund, the John L. Horn Memorial Fund, the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, proceeds stemming from the AAC's Craggin Classic Series, as well as private donations from local individuals, organizations, and fundraising efforts by local AAC Sections & Chapters.
The Live Your Dream grant is community developed and locally administered with grant applications read, evaluated, and awarded by seven Regional Selection Committees comprised of local community members, volunteers, and professional athletes.
The 2018 Live Your Dream grant cycle will open for applications on February 1, 2018.
FEATURED RECIPIENTS:
Christopher Bruno, from Ann Arbor MI, was awarded $900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets a 160 nautical mile sailboat transit from Juneau to Lituya Bay, a trek into the mountains from the beach drop off, a climbing attempt on Mount Fairweather, and finally an exit via skis and packrafts to Haines.
Marisa Earll, from La Jolla, CA, was awarded $350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on five of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake, gaining new experience climbing in the backcountry while pushing her personal grade limit.
Zack Sawyer, from Scarborough, ME, was awarded $700 for two weeks of alpine climbing in Chamonix, France, with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.
2017 LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT RECIPIENTS
The American Alpine Club and The North Face are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $69,750 was awarded to 144 recipients.
The Northeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Cliff Simanski. Committee members included Alexa Siegel, Howard Sebold, and TNF athlete Anna Pfaff.
Gregory Zegas: Charlestown, MA
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Catherine Tobin to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).
Catherine Tobin: New Rochelle, NY
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Gregory Zegas to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).
Pavel Cenkl: Craftsbury Common, VT
$750 for traversing the remote and mountainous terrain between Norway, Sweden, and Finland to attempt to set the fastest known time for a 12-day, 800km largely self-supported Arctic Trail Run of the Nordkalottleden while sharing evidence of a rapidly changing climate in the region and its effects on local indigenous Sami communities.
James Cromie: Chittenden, VT
$950 to travel to the Waddington Range in British Columbia and traverse the entire length of the Combatant-Tiedemann-Asperity-Serra group (including Serra 1-5) in fast and light alpine climbing style typical for the range.
Michael Dorfman: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Helen Jolley by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.
Helen Jolley: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Michael Dorfman by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.
Michael Wadsley: West Grove, PA
$500 to climb the 1000', 14 pitch Rainbow Wall in Red Rock, Nevada via the Original Route during a 9 day stay in Red Rock Canyon.
Adam Nawrot: Somerset, NJ
$800 to climb routes in the Polish Tatras, including Filar Staszla and ski down the backside Granaty.
Evan Pierce: Newton, MA
$450 for his breakthrough into alpine rock climbing by freeing a series of progressively more difficult routes culminating with an ascent of the incredible Hulk via the Red Dihedral route.
Thomas Crowe: Blue Hill, ME
$950 To embark on an expedition with Samuel Eley to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.
Samuel Eley: Portland, ME
$500 to embark on an expedition with Thomas Crowe to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.
Augustine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 11 year old Augustine will finally have time to commit to projecting and acquiring the skills to stay focused on one objective.
Anastasia McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 9 year old Anastasia to climb a 5.10a that will challenge her to overcome her fears of ledges and intimidated roofs.
Magdalen McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 8 year old Magdalen to immerse herself in the outdoors and connect with nature through climbing, hiking, and swimming.
Catherine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 5 year old Catherine to build the fundamental skills of climbing and camping under the tutelage of her family.
Piers McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario to learn about nature and grow his appreciation for the outdoors while connecting with family.
Cameron Twombly: Center Conway, NH
$200 to travel in Northeastern Spain, summit a few of the classic, tall, spires in Montserrat, to send her first 5.12 sport climb in Oliana, and to summit the 2500 meter peak Pedraforca.
Will Helmetag: Pawlet, VT
$950 to explore, via sailboat, Devil's Bay, Chaleur Bay, and Rencontre Bay with the objectives to climb Leviathan 5.10b and develop new trad routes on the most clear lines of these newly discovered walls.
Zack Sawyer: Scarborough, ME
$700 for two weeks of alpine climbingin Chamonix, France , with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.
Brian Taylor: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Ethan Cantlin over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo.
Ethan Cantlin: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Brian Taylor over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo.
David Migl: Brookline, MA
$450 to travel in a team of three to the Ishinca valley in Peru for 10 days of mountaineering with summits of Urus Este (5420m), Ishinca (5530m), and Tocllaraju (6031m).
Timothy Rabideau: Brookline, MA
$950 To spend a nine months in Nepal and while there, complete the Manaslu and/or Annapurna circuit, to traverse from Makalu to Everest via the 3 cols route, to summit at least one 6000 meter "trekking" peak, to connect with local climbing partners/guides and climb LOTS of rock and ice, with a focus on improving big wall free and aid climbing techniques, all contributing towards the ultimate goal of becoming a Mountain Guide.
Dante Archangeli: New Haven, CT
$800 for a redpoint attempt of the mixed sport and trad, 6 pitch route the Opal, 5.12d/13a in the South Gully of The Chief as part of a larger objective to test and develop climbing ability and trip management skills.
Gowri Varanash: Red Hook, NY
$400 to take down her project, French Indian Masala 7c/5.12d, the crimpy, technical sport route in Badami, India.
Josh Alcorn: New York, NY
$500 to travel to the Cascade Range in Washington State to develop his mountaineering skills on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker (10,781 ft).
Andrew Jones: Lincoln, VT
$400 to climb the Northeast Buttress of Goode Mountain in the North Cascades of Washington State in three days.
Owen Silitch: New York, NY
$500 to drive out to Yosemite and the High Sierra to hone his big-wall climbing skills on routes like The Prow and The Red Dihedral in preparation for climbing Lurking Fear on El Capitan.
Annie Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Rory Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.
Rory Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Annie Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.
Ryan Sarka: Buffalo, NY
$1000 for a splitboard and ski ascent and decent of the Western Buttress of Denali to further the mission of Between The Peaks and film a documentary focusing on local habitat and sustainability issues.
Henry Garcia: Brentwood, NY
$750 to establish a first ascent on the 2,600' west face of the 17,550' high peak, the Ritacuba Negro in Sierra del Cocuy, Colombian Andes.
Tristan Amaral: Warner, NH
$300 for a trip with Matthew Birkebak to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .
Matthew Birkebak : West Peterborough, NH
$300 for a trip with Tristan Amaral to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .
Garrett Gibbons: Philadelphia, PA
$400 to hone multi-pitch trad climbing skills on the epic granite of The Chief by climbinga variation of the Squamish Buttress known as the Squamish Butt Face via Banana Peel (5.7) and Boomstick Crack (5.6) into the crux pitch (5.9) to the summit.
James Armstrong: Olivebridge, NY
$1000 to reach the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Nahanni Provincial Park by fair means, navigating to the Cirque on foot, with no plane/helicopter ride with the goal of climbing Lotus Flower Tower and exploring new surrounding areas.
John Nicholas: Mount Kisco, NY
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with Ryan Lynch.
Ryan Lynch: Westford, MA
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with John Nicholas.
Nan Teh: Brooklyn, NY
$250 to attempt, with Mikhail Martin, to climb their first big wall multi-pitch in Cochamo Valley, specifically the 1,500' 10-pitch route El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, 5.10+.
Mikhail Martin: Queens Village, NY
$250 to travel, with Nan Teh , to learn how to survive in the outdoors, on a big wall, and ascend El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, while inspiring other climbers from the city, especially climbers of color to get out of their comfort zone, and practice Spanish in Chile.
Matthew Matera: New York, NY
$200 to climb and run through Chamonix, Zermatt, and several towns in the Dolomites, including Run the Dolomites Skyrace, a 3 day run of the Walker Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt to prepare for speed objectives including Mount Ritter, Mount Humphrey, and the Tuolumne Meadow Triple Crown in the Sierras in California.
Greg Morrissey: Westfield, NJ
$400 to bike from Vancouver, CA to Tijuana, Mexico and climb Mount Rainier and Mount Hood while raising awareness about the importance of outdoor education and fundraising for financially-restricted high school students to participate in adventure and travel enrichment trips.
Julia Lowd: Brooklyn, NY
$500 to summit the third highest point in North America , Pico de Orizaba and ski down 3,000' from the summit cone of the Jamapa glacier.
Jordan Cargill: Freedom, NH
$800 for a three phase trip to boost crack climbing skills in Vantage, WA, alpine efficiency on the East Face of Mount Whiteny and the North Fairview Dome, and high-altitude mountaineering with an ascent of Pico de Orizaba in Mexico via the Serpents Head route.
Domenic Aiello-Popeo: Silver Lake, NH
$600 to climb Alaska's Mt. Foraker (AKA Sultana, 17,400') via an extremely technical face called the "Fin Wall" and continue up the Southwest Buttress to the summit, traversing the peak and descending to the Kahiltna Glacier.
Patrick Cooke: Newtown, MA
$500 to travel to the Cordillera Blanca for a month and climb some classic high-altitude snow and ice routes in addition to some lesser traveled objectives like the south face of Caraz I and the Jaeger Route on Chacraraju Este.
Bob Clark: East Hartford, CT
$500 to travel to the township of Araruna in Brazil to establish two first ascents up two different domes between 500' and 600' tall.
Josh Garrison: Katonah, NY
$500 to put up first ascents on multiple formations in the Lofoten Islands in Norway while being a mentor to two friends who are new to alpine fast and light, pioneering objectives.
The Southeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Danny McCracken. Committee members included Dave Giacomin, Brian Payst, and Garrett Gossett.
Aaron Ray: District Of Columbia
$435 to travel to Bolivia to attempt multiple peaks in the Cordillera Real, centered on the Condoriri group and Illiman.
John Gannon: Fairfax, Virginia
$265 to attempt to summit Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route unguided with a group of veterans.
Michelle Xue: District Of Columbia
$320 to climb Nevado Sajama (21,486 ft) and Parinacota (20,767 ft) in June of 2017 with a team of 3 other climbers.
Matt Swaim: Charlotte, North Carolina
Timothy Fry: Belmont, North Carolina
$270 for Matt and $535 for Timothy to navigate the remote, difficult terrain of the Nahanni National Park by foot travel only.
Sam England: Huntsville, Alabama
Ryan Little: Huntsville, Alabama
$435 for Ryan and $570 for Sam to the Sam Ford Fjord region of Baffin Island to attempt a first ascent big wall climb of the Chinese Wall, a large, unclimbed face.
Corey Winstead: Asheville, North Carolina
$520 to further explore the nearly untouched Thunderdome massif in the Ragged Range of the Northwest Territories.
Alex Elizabeth Barringer: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$300 to climb Wolf's Head via its east ridge.
Lindsay Keegan: Baltimore, Maryland
$300 to climb the classic Liberty Ridge of Mount Rainier in Washington.
John Hughes: District Of Columbia
$200 to climb Mount Jefferson via the Whitewater Glacier route and Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route.
Greg Barltrop: Baltimore, Maryland
$280 to climb the Liberty Ridge route to the summit of Mt. Rainier in Washington state.
Phillip Jasper: District Of Columbia
$200 to attempt a back to back climbs of Mt. Jefferson, OR via the Whitewater Glacier as well as travel up to Mt. Rainier and summit via Emmons Glacier.
Matthew Wikswo: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$270 to attempt a self-guided ascent of Mount Rainer via Ptarmigan Ridge.
Oya Bermek: Cary, North Carolina
$350 to open new alpine routes in Aladaglar (Ala Mountains), which is located at the mountain range of Toros (Taurus) Mountains in southern Turkey.
The Central Regional Selection Committee was chaired by James Schroeder. Committee members included Ryan Gajewski, Adam Mitchell, Savannah Buik, and Ryan Maitland.
Samuel Daulton: Chicago, IL
$1,000 to make the first free ascent of Nubivagant (5.13d A0) and the volcanic tower, Pico Cão Grande, on the island nation of São Tomé in Africa.
Adam Happensack: Englewood, OH
$1,000 to fly into the southern prong of the Pitchfork Glacier in Alaska's Neacola Mountains - there they hope to explore and make the first ascent of a pair of unnamed peaks.
Corey McCarthy, Oconomowoc, WI
$750 to do a sea-to-summit expedition in Alaska approaching the Devil's Thumb via Thomas Bay and the Baird Glacier.
Carey deVictoria-Michel: Excelsior, MN
$500 to travel to Patagonia to climb Chiaro Di Luna (5.10+) - a twenty-pitch alpine rock adventure.
Lucy Westlake: Naperville, IL
$500 to become the youngest female to summit the highest points in all fifty states, she will complete that journey this summer on the flanks of Denali.
Edward Kowalski: Independence, OH
$250 to fulfill a lifelong dream of climbing Yosemite's, El Capitan, via Tangerine Trip (5.9 C3+ VI).
The Rocky Mountain Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Dakota Walz. Committee members included Mitch Dorsk, Shingo Ohkawa, and Steve Taylor.
Kelly Stewart: Salt Lake City, UT
$375 to climb the Beckey Chouinard route on South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.
Aidan Goldie: Jamestown, CO
$400 to climb and ski off the 18,490 ft Pico de Orizaba volcano in Mexico.
Paul Barish: Leadville, CO
$850 to climb 2,000' south-east face of Lotus Flower Tower, a pure and aesthetic alpine rock route that just beckons to be climbed.
Ryan Kuehn: Boulder, CO
$425 to travel down to Chile to climb in Valle Cochamo.
Lea Linse: Colorado Springs, CO
$350 to travel to Yosemite NP and climb Astroman (5.11), Steck-Salathe (5.10), and hopefully either the Nose (5.9 C2) or Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) on El Capitan
Michael Riley: Sat Lake City, UT
$500 to travel to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to climb Objectivo Luna, an 8 pitch 5.10c route.
Michael Scott: Salida, CO
$200 to travel to the Alaskan range to attempt the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington.
Annie Brewster: Denver, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.
Igor Tomcej: Denver, CO
$380 to travel to Peru and do the second ascent of the route Los Checos Banditos on La Esfinge.
John Sittler: Boulder, CO
$200 to climb the Beckey-Chouinard route on South Howser Tower as the culmination of a month-long climbing road trip.
Kevin Cantwell: Salt Lake City, UT
$350 to climb All Along the Watchtower, 5.11 C2- on North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos, located in British Colombia, Canada.
Mitchell Hodge: Fort Collins, CO
$300 to attempt 1 route on the North Face of the Lost Twin Lakes Cirque in Cloud Peak Wilderness of Bighorn National Forest WY.
Ben Peters: Salt Lake City, UT
$770 to climb the British Route (5.12 a/b 700m) on Nalumasortoq and War and Peace (5.12c 1000m) on Ulamertorsuaq and attempt to establish a new line on the west of Nalumasortoq.
Matt Berry: Salt Lake City, UT
$800 to technical climb routes on peaks such as Alpamayo, Tocllaraju, Artesonraju, and Taulliraju of Peru.
Ellie Gilbertson: Colorado Springs, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.
Karen Bockel: Jackson, WY
$825 to climb the Peuterey Integral on Mont Blanc, one of the longest alpine ridge climbs in the Alps, and the world.
Kelsey Brasseur: Carbondale, CO
$775 to spend a month climbing and establishing new routes in Li Ming, China.
The Northwest Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Erin Schneider. Committee members included Andrew Puhl, Graham Zimmerman, Jean Spencer, and TNF athlete Peter Athans.
John Bergeleen: Cheney, WA
$300 to climb of the Upper Exum Ridge, or Exum Direct on the Grand Teton.
James Paul Blackmon: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb Mongo Ridge – the southwest ridge of Mt. Fury in the Pickets range of Washington State, and a first ascent on the Pole of Remoteness, which will be called "Mongo Direct".
Cameron Brown: Clackamas, OR
$300 to climb The Salathe Wall and The Nose on El Capitan.
Paul Calabro: Belgrade, MT
$300 for a lightweight ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mt. Foraker (Sultana) in the Alaska Range.
Tom Chambers: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb one or more routes in the vicinity of Peak 1939, up to Grade V with climbing difficulties up to 5.10 A1. Access to the routes would involve sea kayaking approx. 60km North from Kulusuk up the Angmagssalik fjord to the North-West inlet of Qigertivaq. From the coast we would hike approx 12km to the base of the route.
Kimberly Couri: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.
Bill Dean: Juneau, AK
$400 to support a solely human-powered unassisted exploration into remote Alaska, during winter, attempting the first winter ascent of Devil's Paw (8,504').
Eric DeChaine: Bellingham, WA
$300 to perform a botanical survey of Mt. Waddington in British Columbia, to document how plant diversity changes with elevation under the current climate conditions. To do so, they will climb the mountain via the Bravo Glacier route.
Stephen Lezak: Portland, OR
$500 to travel to Mongolia for ski mountaineering in the Altai Mountains with one first ascent.
Sam Linnet: Hailey, ID
$300 to climb and ski all seven, 12,000 foot peaks in the Lost River Range in Idaho in one, fast and light push.
Nicholas Lyon: Bellingham, WA
$400 to wrap up a handful of two year old projects and establish new bouldering problems in classic and new areas alike in Rocklands, South Africa.
Tammy Martin: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.
Luke Montgomery: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb the East Buttress and East Face of Mt. Whitney.
Chris Mutzel: Sun Valley, ID
$400 to complete the Waddington Traverse.
David Norris: Anchorage, AK
$300 to ski across the Harding Icefield on cross-country racing gear- starting in Seward and ending in Homer, Alaska.
Joseph Peters: Spokane, WA
$400 to climb the Cassin Ridge (Alaska Grade 5, 5.8, AI 4) in a single push alpine style after acclimating on the West Buttress of Denali.
Randall Stacy: Boise, ID
$400 to climb in the Chalten Massif in Patagonia – specifically Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.
Kellie Standish: Bend, OR
$500 to climb and ski Mt. Hood, acting as support for teammate Anna Soens, also awarded a LYD grant, seeking to become the first female paraplegic to climb and ski Mt. Hood.
Erik Turner: Seattle, WA
$300 to complete the Olympic Skyline Traverse in the Olympic Mountains, WA.
Ida Vincent: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.
The Western Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Matt Ulrey. Committee members included Laurie Berliner, Tony Yeary, Paul Hendricks, TNF athlete Dave Allfrey, and TNF staff member Rachel Gray.
Jeff Gardner: Coronado, California
$750 to climb and summit Mount Rainier by way of the technically demanding Kautz Glacier approach with an advanced course from Alpine Ascents International.
Scott Larson: San Diego, California
$750 to climb the West Rib route on Denali. We will ski to 14000 ft camp via the West Buttress route, then descend via the "Seattle '72 Ramp" on foot to the base of the West Rib. From here, they hope to climb the West Rib to the summit and return down the West Buttress to our skis.
Marisa Earll: La Jolla, California
$350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on 5 of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake.
Kenneth Huskey: Chico, California
$750 to document the Nepali people's experience with climate change while we simultaneously level up their climbing.
Kara Herson: Redwood City, California
$1000 to climb three different spires in the Bugaboos, and exploring the amazing climbing opportunities (and hoping for good weather days) over 2 to 3 weeks.
Diana Wendt: Mammoth Lakes, California
$1000 to spend a month in the Tasermiut Fjord in southeast Greenland in the valley below Ulamertorsuaq climbing the classic granite lines and establishing a new line.
Josh Dibble: Idyllwild, California
$750 to climb Aconcagua solo via the normal route.
Brett Webster: Piedmont, California
$750 to attempt a multi-modal (boat, ski, hike, climb) traverse of Mt. Fairweather, Alaska.
Alix Morris: Bishop, California
$500 to establish a first ascent up the Angel Wings with the intent of free climbing this route as well. Alix would like to go ground up, capsule style establishing each pitch, fixing it with hardware, and free'ing it if possible.
David Whiting: Soquel, California
$250 to climb three Zion big walls in three days. The plan is to climb some of Zion's most classic walls: Spaceshot, Moonlight Buttress, and Touchstone.
Cris Valerio: San Francisco, California
$200 to climb The Nose on El Capitan this Fall. We hope to finish the route in 3-5 days with a combination of free climbing and aid climbing.
Mark Hudon: Carson City, Nevada
$500 to climb Freerider on El Cap in Yosemite at the youthful age of 61!
John Greer: Modesto, California
$750 to make the first ascent of Talliktok, a peak in the Hidden Mountains. Zack Clanton described his Alaskan adventure in the 2016 AAJ publication.
Mac McCaleb: Prescott, Arizona
$200 to summit three peaks in the Bugaboos: Snowpatch Spire, Pigeon Spire, and Bigaboo Spire.
Gregory Carlisle: Tahoe City, California
$500 to return with a dedicated partner and attempt some of the classic summits of the Chalten Massif. Routes they have considered are not groundbreaking or new, but classic and traditional Patagonia summits.
Nathan Duray: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.
Kevin Kent: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.
Clarence Thost: Santa Barbara, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.
Catherine Tao: Bishop, California
$400 to gain experience in basic mountaineering and glacier travel skills by attempting the summits of Dragontail Peak and Colchuck Peak in the Enchantments in Washington.
Darrow Feldstein: Santa Cruz, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.
Annie Laurie Hines: Davis, California
$200 to undertake a granite pilgrimage that begins in the Cascades and ends in the Bugaboos. Though they will spend a month climbing together in preparation, their final objective is a two-day ascent of the Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower.
Erik Hanschen: Tucson, Arizona
$500 to become a better mountaineer and hone his skills for larger adventures by summiting three major Cascade volcanoes: Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood.
Gregory Powell: Redondo Beach, California
$500 to climb the Salathe Wall on El Capitan. First he will become more comfortable with serious chimneys and offwidths by going to Vedauwoo and Joshua Tree.
Maria Hart: Tahoe City, California
$500 to visit Patagonia to climb the Whillans-Cochrane route on Poincenot, the Brenner-Moschioni or Amy-Vidailhet route on Aguja Guillaumet, the Filo Noreste or Francesa/ Franco-Argentine linkup on Fitz Roy, along with other smaller objectives as weather permits.
Eric Munsing: South Lake Tahoe, California
$350 to climb the Evolution Traverse, an 8-mile Grade VI 5.9 ridge traverse which summits nine peaks in the central Sierra Nevadas in California.
Elizabeth Gill: San Anselmo, California
$550 to complete a women's fastest known time (FKT) run of the 40km (4,204m elevation gain) Selvaggio Blu, or Wild Blu, on the island of Sardinia.
Marissa Stender: Pleasanton, California
$300 to help fund a trip to Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) to climb and ski the Skillet on Mount Moran.
Bria Riggs: Truckee, California
$400 to combine mountaineering and scientific research in order to investigate how climate change is affecting the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru.
Nathaniel Goodby: Oakland, California
$200 to do a self-supported thru-hike all of California's 13 fourteeners in the Sierra Nevada.
The Ski/Snowboard Mountaineering Selection Committee was chaired by Mike Marolt. Committee members included Drew Seessel, Charlotte Fox, Kit DesLauriers, and Hilaree O'neill.
Sonia Szczesna: New Brunswick NJ
$250 to climb & ski winter routes in the Polish Tatras—humble mountains where their fathers cut their teeth and the training grounds for many a 8000-meter winter first ascent. Their main objective is climbing the 300m ice route variation of the summer route "Filar Staszla" and skiing down the back side of "Granaty" which the route crests.
Christopher Bruno: Ann Arbor MI
$900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets to traverse the Fairweather range of SE Alaska. We will start in Juneau in a sailboat, for a 160 nautical mile transit to Lituya Bay. They will then climb into the mountains from the beach drop off, and attempt Mount Fairweather and then exit the mountains via skis and packrafts to Haines.
Payson Patridge: Bozeman MT
$250 to climb and ski Pico de Orizaba in Mexico.
Jonathan Ronzio, Brookline MA
$750 to climb and splitboard Denali as a follow-up to his award-winning adventure-philanthropy film made in 2013, Between The Peaks.
David Wade: Wilson WY
$700 to climb & ski Pik Lenin (23,406ft) in Kyrgystan.
Lisa Verwys: Bozeman MT
$600 to be the first female team to traverse Yellowstone National Park from the north (Cooke City, MT) to the south (Flagg Ranch near Jackson, WY), creating a new route which will take her through some of the most remote areas of the park. The trip will be done entirely on backcountry skis and with attempts of ski descents of several of Yellowstone’s remote peaks along the way, including Mt. Chittenden, Little Saddle, Hague, Saddle, Cathedral, Pyramid, and several unnamed peaks.
Maddie Miller: Forest Knolls CA
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska with the goal to do single push climbing and skiing objectives, starting from our basecamp on the Bagley Ice Field, which is located in the St. Elias Range.
Robert Cipperly: Troy NY
$300 to climb and ski four different volcanoes that lie close to the border of Chile and Argentina—Lonquimay, Lliama, Villirica and Lanin.
Anna Soens: Boise ID
$750 to climb Mt. Hood via the South Side Route and become the first female paraplegic to do so, and potentially bagging the first non-mechanized paraplegic ascent. She plans to ski (i.e., monoski) as much of the descent as possible.
AAC member Shay Skinner on Fear of Infection E4 6a, Llanberis Pass. Photo: @Alexmessengerphoto
We have the opportunity to send two (one female and one male) experienced trad climbers to this exciting British Mountaineering Council event in May. Preference will be given to climbers who have not attended a BMC International Meet before.
The 2017 BMC International Summer Climbing Meet will be located at the Count House in Cornwall, a 200-year-old building perched above Cornwall’s finest granite cliff, Bosigran. Participants will get access to presentation, clinics, and climbing with diverse local partners.
Check out the application (due January 30) and more information.
The AAC and Access Fund are pleased to announce the 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure, and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem. We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support fifteen fixed anchor replacement projects across the country.
This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.
October 13, 2016, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2016 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its second year, the Anchor Replacement Fund was launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure, and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for the growing number of local organizations and national partners that are tackling this problem. We are pleased to have awarded $10,000 again this year, to support fifteen fixed anchor replacement projects across the country. This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.
Arkansas Climbers Coalition
Arkansas Climbers Coalition (ARCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement at Sam’s Throne area, particularly The Outback and The West Main Bluff. The grant will augment their fixed anchor fund, and support the work of ARCC’s volunteer anchor replacement team. ARCC is a longtime Access Fund Affiliate and a grassroots climbing non-profit working to steward and protect Arkansas climbing.
Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition
Southwest Virginia Climbers Coalition (SVCC) was awarded funding for fixed anchor replacement in Breaks Interstate Park, a state park located across the Virginia-Kentucky line. The park was officially opened to climbing earlier this year, and SVCC will upgrade anchors on dozens of historic, sandstone routes in Breaks. SVCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and volunteer-run climbing non-profit focused on stewardship and protection of southwest Virginia climbing areas.
Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Western Massachusetts Climbers Coalition (WMCC) to replace fixed anchors at Farley Ledges, Mormon Hollow, and the Sunbowl. WMCC will focus its work on bolts and top-anchors, using new long-lasting glue-in bolts. WMCC is a longstanding Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing organization that leads stewardship and protection of western Massachusetts climbing resources.
Boise Climbers Alliance
Boise Climber’s Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs outside of Boise, Idaho. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.
Ohio Climbers Coalition
Ohio Climbers Coalition (OCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Springfield Gorge, Ohio. This historic climbing area is being revitalized by local community partners, and it is being transformed into a climbing park—likely the largest climbing area in Ohio. OCC’s anchor replacement work will focus on updating the area’s aging bolts and top-anchors. OCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local, grassroots climbing advocacy and conservation organization.
Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Idaho Climbers Coalition (SICC) to replace fixed anchors at The Prow climbing area. SICC’s project will upgrade 18 routes with bomber, longlasting half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. SICC is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local climbing stewardship organization working in the Twin Falls area.
Illinois Climbers Association
Illinois Climbers Coalition (ICA) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors in Jackson Falls, Illinois. Jackson Falls is one of the most popular climbing destinations in the Midwest, and ICA will focus on upgrading the area’s aging bolts and anchors with glue-in bolts and stainless steel hardware. ICA is an Access Fund Affiliate and longtime Illinois climbing advocacy and stewardship organization.
New River Alliance of Climbers
We are pleased to award funding to the New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) to replace fixed anchors in Summersville Lake, West Virginia. NRAC is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy non-profit working to protect New River Gorge climbing resources.
Carolina Climbers Coalition
Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Hidden Valley, Virginia. The CCC worked with Access Fund to acquire the Hidden Valley property in 2014. CCC is an Access Fund Affiliate and the climbing advocacy and conservation organization preserving and protecting climbing in North and South Carolina.
Minnesota Climbers Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Minnesota Climbers Association (MCA) to replace fixed anchors in Willow River State Park, Wisconsin. Willow River is a popular mid-western limestone sport crag, and MCA will continue to upgrade the area’s old 3/8” bolts to modern, long-lasting glue-in anchors. MCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and local climbing advocacy and conservation organization working to steward and protect climbing in Minnesota and surrounding areas.
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain’s most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.
Southern Utah Climber's Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber's Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA’s work will focus on Black and Tan, Kelly’s Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the Bureau of Land Management. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.
Friends of Joshua Tree
Friends of Joshua Tree (FOJT) was awarded funding to replace fixed anchors at Joshua Tree’s Echo Rock, Intersection Rock, and other areas. A well-regarded partner of Joshua Tree National Park, FOJT has led sustainable fixed anchor and bolt replacement in Joshua Tree for more than a decade. The grant will support their ongoing efforts to upgrade routes with half-inch stainless steel bolts and hardware. FOJT is an Access Fund Affiliate and a non-profit climbing stewardship and advocacy organization.
Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding for a second year to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California’s Pinnacles National Monument. FoP maintains a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles using a hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
We are pleased to award Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) with funding to replace fixed anhors in Lower Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. The project builds off of SLCA’s recent success in American Fork and Big Cottonwood Canyon, where they upgraded dozens of popular routes. The work in Little Cottonwood Canyon will be coordinated by SLCA’s new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative. SLCA is an Access Fund Affiliate and a local, non-profit climbing advocacy and stewardship organization focused on the climbing resources of the Wasatch and beyond.
We're proud to announce a new climbing grant, the Cutting Edge Grant. The Cutting Edge Grant, an evolution of the Lyman Spitzer Grant, seeks to fund advanced and capable climbers planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits.
Cutting Edge awards are intended to more significantly contribute towards total expedition costs. Awards will typically fall in the $5,000 to $15,000 range. Learn more.