It’s May and we’re fully into the spring season. We have the first installment of a two-part series that demonstrates what to do if the leader falls and is knocked unconscious. It is not an uncommon scenario as we see in an accident we reported in the 2025 ANAC.
This accident took place in November 2024, when a climber was leading the overhanging second pitch of a route in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada. This climber fell and was knocked unconscious and ended up hanging above and out from the wall. As you’ll read, this story has a happy ending because of well-informed and decisive action by the belayer.
Red Rock Canyon lies just outside the Las Vegas metropolitan area. This proximity belies the remote wilderness setting in which rescues are often complex and hazardous. BLM Nevada.
Leader Fall on Rock | Protection Pulled Out
Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area, Oak Creek Canyon, Black Orpheus Amphitheater
On November 10, I, Eric Chaudhary and a partner (male, 26) were climbing Marijuana (5 pitches, 11c) in the Black Orpheus Amphitheater. He was leading the second pitch (10b). It exits hard left off a hanging belay with one bolt for protection about six feet above and ten feet to the left of the belay. The route then cuts back right to a roof/bulge move where I believe he placed a BD #0.3 Z4 cam.
He did the move, mantled up, and was getting his stance when his foot slipped and he fell. The piece in the roof ripped, causing him to fall about six feet directly onto the rope which was clipped to the first bolt. His ankle caught and flipped him aggressively. The first thing that struck the wall was his head. He was wearing a helmet.
He was unconscious and was hanging upside down approximately ten feet to my left and four feet above me. I lowered him to a small ledge that flipped him upright. He was now level with me. I then tied off the rope and broke the belay. I called 911 (spotty reception) and relayed our location. I then yelled to a party of hiker/climbers at the base of the canyon. I informed them we needed helicopter rescue and that I was not sure if EMS had received my location.
I then attended to my partner and basically lassoed him with a coil of rope and pulled him to me at the belay. Around then he started regaining consciousness. I secured him to the anchor, untied him, and set-up a rappel. I rapped to the base of the first pitch with him attached to me. Luckily, we had twin 60m ropes.
At the actual base of the climb there is one belay bolt, but unfortunately it was too high to utilize. I built a two-piece gear anchor to descend a 150-foot section of low 5th class slab that comprises the approach to the first pitch. As we were rappelling, a SAR member yelled from the base of the canyon. I told him my partner was in and out of consciousness and we needed helicopter rescue. I finished the rap to a large ledge system. Five minutes later a helicopter arrived. They flew out my partner, then returned for a SAR team member and myself.
Video Analysis
Here's the scenario: Your climbing partner took a leader fall, they are unconscious, and unresponsive.
What do you do?
In this video, Jason Antin shows you ONE way to rescue an unconscious leader while on a multi-pitch climb. We recommend taking a course with an IFMGA/AMGA guide to learn more about rock rescue.
Credits:
Pete Takeda @pete_takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Boulder Canyon, Boulder, CO
In this month’s featured accident, a climber was knocked unconscious while leading a second pitch. His partner swooped into action, effecting a self-rescue, and getting them both safely off the wall.
Jason and Pete are back to share knowledge about what to do if your leader is knocked unconscious.
Video Credits: Pete Takeda, Editor of Accidents in North American Climbing; IFMGA/AMGA Guide Jason Antin; Producers: Shane Johnson and Sierra McGivney; Videographer: Foster Denney; Editor: Sierra McGivney; Location: Boulder Canyon, Boulder, CO.
Analysis
I inspected the cam that blew, and it had a gouge in two of the lobes. The next party to climb the route retrieved our bail anchor. I was told that the spot where the piece had blown had no fresh scar. I’m still not sure why it didn't hold and hope to climb the route again to inspect it. (Source: Eric Chaudhary.)
Editor’s Note: It was fortunate that Chaudhary was very competent and effected an efficient self-rescue. Had he not descended to a helicopter accessible area, the rescue might have taken many hours longer—sunset was 4:30 p.m. Though close to Las Vegas, Red Rock is a remote venue and climbers should consider carrying an emergency satellite communication device.
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