PC: Nelson Neirinck
The American Alpine Club and Black Diamond Equipment are pleased to announce two 2026 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. For more than a century, the Club has supported expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first-free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. The Cutting Edge Grant is made possible in part through the support of Black Diamond Equipment, a key partner in advancing cutting-edge alpinism.
Chantel Astorga and Fanny Schmutz. PC: Chantel Astorga
East Face of Mount Shivling. PC: Chantel Astorga
Chantel Astorga will be awarded $7,000 to attempt the ENE face of Mount Shivling in the western Garhwal Himalaya. In 2024, Astorga and Fanny Schmutz came within 250 meters of completing the line. “When we first considered it, it seemed like it might be beyond our limits, but during our 2024 attempt, we moved steadily forward and watched our intended route unfold beautifully,” Astorga shared. “Returning this fall gives us the opportunity to continue where we left off, with a better understanding of the route and what it demands.” French alpinist Lise Billon will join Astorga and Schmutz for this year’s attempt.
Astorga previously received both the Cutting Edge Grant and the McNeill-Nott Grant. Her achievements include the first ascent of the southwest face of Nilkanth in the Central Garhwal, the first ski descent of the Seattle Ramp variation on Denali's West Rib, and the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge.
Tad McCrea and Jon Griffin. PC: Tad McCrea
Kula Kangri. PC: Mars You on Pexels
Tad McCrea will be awarded $6,000 to attempt the Kula Kangri (7,538m) in the Eastern Himalayas. Kula Kangri, which McCrea describes as “a big mountain with little history of climbing,” was first climbed in 1986 by a Japanese team. McCrea and Jon Griffin will attempt a new route, expected to include roughly 2,000 meters of steep technical terrain.
McCrea was also awarded the Cutting Edge Grant in 2025, which helped support the first ascent of Eye Ri on the previously unclimbed northern spire of Suma Brakk in Pakistan.
The Club’s grants program is designed to support all members in their climbing pursuits, and awarded over $87,000 in 2025 alone. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1 through November 30. With questions, contact Berkeley Anderson, Director of Grants and Community Support, at [email protected].
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