2017 Live Your Dream Grant Recipients Announced

The American Alpine Club and The North Face are proud to announce the recipients of 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $70,000 was awarded to 144 individuals from across the nation, making 2017 the most successful year in the history of the Live Your Dream grant program. Nearly 1 out of every 3 applicants received an award. See the complete listing of grant recipients and their trips.

The climbing grant for climbers, by climbers, the Live Your Dream grant seeks to fund every-day adventurers looking take their abilities to the next level. Be it transitioning out of the gym or establishing a first ascent in the greater ranges, the purpose of this grant is to support and promote unforgettable experiences for mountain adventurers—to dream big, to grow, and to inspire others.

The Live Your Dream grant is powered nationally by The North Face and supported locally through generous contributions from the Hans Saari Fund, the John L. Horn Memorial Fund, the Mount Washington Valley Ice Fest, proceeds stemming from the AAC's Craggin Classic Series, as well as private donations from local individuals, organizations, and fundraising efforts by local AAC Sections & Chapters.

The Live Your Dream grant is community developed and locally administered with grant applications read, evaluated, and awarded by seven Regional Selection Committees comprised of local community members, volunteers, and professional athletes.

The 2018 Live Your Dream grant cycle will open for applications on February 1, 2018.

FEATURED RECIPIENTS:

Christopher Bruno, from Ann Arbor MI, was awarded $900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets a 160 nautical mile sailboat transit from Juneau to Lituya Bay, a trek into the mountains from the beach drop off, a climbing attempt on Mount Fairweather, and finally an exit via skis and packrafts to Haines.

Marisa Earll, from La Jolla, CA, was awarded $350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on five of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake, gaining new experience climbing in the backcountry while pushing her personal grade limit.

Zack Sawyer, from Scarborough, ME, was awarded $700 for two weeks of alpine climbing in Chamonix, France, with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.


2017 LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT RECIPIENTS

The American Alpine Club and The North Face are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2017 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $69,750 was awarded to 144 recipients.

NORTHEAST REGION:

The Northeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Cliff Simanski. Committee members included Alexa Siegel, Howard Sebold, and TNF athlete Anna Pfaff.

Gregory Zegas: Charlestown, MA
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Catherine Tobin to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).

Catherine Tobin: New Rochelle, NY
$500 for two weeks in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca with Gregory Zegas to acclimate in Huaraz before summit attempts of Mt. Pisco (18,871 ft) and Mt. Chopicalqui (20,846 ft).

Pavel Cenkl: Craftsbury Common, VT
$750 for traversing the remote and mountainous terrain between Norway, Sweden, and Finland to attempt to set the fastest known time for a 12-day, 800km largely self-supported Arctic Trail Run of the Nordkalottleden while sharing evidence of a rapidly changing climate in the region and its effects on local indigenous Sami communities.

James Cromie: Chittenden, VT
$950 to travel to the Waddington Range in British Columbia and traverse the entire length of the Combatant-Tiedemann-Asperity-Serra group (including Serra 1-5) in fast and light alpine climbing style typical for the range.     

Michael Dorfman: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Helen Jolley by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.

Helen Jolley: Bar Harbor, ME
$500 to develop mountaineering skills with Michael Dorfman by attempting South Sister, Mount Saint Helens, Mount Adams, Mount Baker and culminating in a summit of Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver.

Michael Wadsley: West Grove, PA
$500 to climb the 1000', 14 pitch Rainbow Wall in Red Rock, Nevada via the Original Route during a 9 day stay in Red Rock Canyon.

Adam Nawrot: Somerset, NJ
$800 to climb routes in the Polish Tatras, including Filar Staszla and ski down the backside Granaty.

Evan Pierce: Newton, MA
$450 for his breakthrough into alpine rock climbing by freeing a series of progressively more difficult routes culminating with an ascent of the incredible Hulk via the Red Dihedral route.

Thomas Crowe: Blue Hill, ME
$950 To embark on an expedition with Samuel Eley to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.

Samuel Eley: Portland, ME
$500 to embark on an expedition with Thomas Crowe to the Mount Hayes and Mount Moffit mountains in the Eastern Alaska Range, southeast of Fairbanks, Alaska to attempt to climb the East Ridge of Mount Hayes and the Western North Ridge of Mount Moffit.

Augustine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 11 year old Augustine will finally have time to commit to projecting and acquiring the skills to stay focused on one objective.

Anastasia McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 9 year old Anastasia to climb a 5.10a that will challenge her to overcome her fears of ledges and intimidated roofs.

Magdalen McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of the McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 8 year old Magdalen to immerse herself in the outdoors and connect with nature through climbing, hiking, and swimming.

Catherine McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario for 5 year old Catherine to build the fundamental skills of climbing and camping under the tutelage of her family.

Piers McDermott: Homestead, PA
$200 as part of McDermott family to climb for 4 weeks in the Niagara Escarpment in Ontario to learn about nature and grow his appreciation for the outdoors while connecting with family.

Cameron Twombly: Center Conway, NH
$200 to travel in Northeastern Spain, summit a few of the classic, tall, spires in Montserrat, to send her first 5.12 sport climb in Oliana, and to summit the 2500 meter peak Pedraforca.

Will Helmetag: Pawlet, VT
$950 to explore, via sailboat, Devil's Bay, Chaleur Bay, and Rencontre Bay with the objectives to climb Leviathan 5.10b and develop new trad routes on the most clear lines of these newly discovered walls.

Zack Sawyer: Scarborough, ME
$700 for two weeks of alpine climbingin Chamonix, France , with the ultimate goal of climbing the Trois Monts route up Mont Blanc, the south face of Aiguille du Midi, and The Voie Rébuffat-Baque.

Brian Taylor: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Ethan Cantlin over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo. 

Ethan Cantlin: Falmouth, ME
$500 to peak-bag his way through Wasatch National Forest in Utah with Brian Taylor over the course of three weeks specifically targeting Pfeifferhorn and Mt. Nebo.

David Migl: Brookline, MA
$450 to travel in a team of three to the Ishinca valley in Peru for 10 days of mountaineering with summits of Urus Este (5420m), Ishinca (5530m), and Tocllaraju (6031m).

Timothy Rabideau: Brookline, MA
$950 To spend a nine months in Nepal and while there, complete the Manaslu and/or Annapurna circuit, to traverse from Makalu to Everest via the 3 cols route, to summit at least one 6000 meter "trekking" peak, to connect with local climbing partners/guides and climb LOTS of rock and ice, with a focus on improving big wall free and aid climbing techniques, all contributing towards the ultimate goal of becoming a Mountain Guide.

Dante Archangeli: New Haven, CT
$800 for a redpoint attempt of the mixed sport and trad, 6 pitch route the Opal, 5.12d/13a in the South Gully of The Chief as part of a larger objective to test and develop climbing ability and trip management skills.      

Gowri Varanash: Red Hook, NY
$400 to take down her project, French Indian Masala 7c/5.12d, the crimpy, technical sport route in Badami, India.

Josh Alcorn: New York, NY
$500 to travel to the Cascade Range in Washington State to develop his mountaineering skills on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker (10,781 ft).

Andrew Jones: Lincoln, VT
$400 to climb the Northeast Buttress of Goode Mountain in the North Cascades of Washington State in three days.

Owen Silitch:  New York, NY
$500 to drive out to Yosemite and the High Sierra to hone his big-wall climbing skills on routes like The Prow and The Red Dihedral in preparation for climbing Lurking Fear on El Capitan.

Annie Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Rory Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.

Rory Coughlin: Philadelphia, PA
$500 to travel with Annie Coughlin to the Italian Dolomites and stay near the Campitello di Fassa and Cortina D'ampezzo areas while peak bagging classics like the Second and Third Sella Towers, The Vajolet Towers all in a day, and Cima Grande Di Laveredo via Comici-Dimai.

Ryan Sarka:  Buffalo, NY
$1000 for a splitboard and ski ascent and decent of the Western Buttress of Denali to further the mission of Between The Peaks and film a documentary focusing on local habitat and sustainability issues.

Henry Garcia: Brentwood, NY
$750 to establish a first ascent on the 2,600' west face of the 17,550' high peak, the Ritacuba Negro in Sierra del Cocuy, Colombian Andes.

Tristan Amaral: Warner, NH
$300 for a trip with Matthew Birkebak to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .

Matthew Birkebak : West Peterborough, NH
$300 for a trip with Tristan Amaral to climb three of North America's iconic mountains in the month of August: the Grand Teton (via Beyer East Face, III 5.9), South Howser Tower (Bugaboos, via the Becky-Chouinard,IV 5.10 as well as additional goals including NE ridge of Bugaboo Spire 5.8 and Sunshine Crack 5.11-), and Mt. Rainier (via Emmons Glacier Route) .

Garrett Gibbons: Philadelphia, PA
$400 to hone multi-pitch trad climbing skills on the epic granite of The Chief by climbinga variation of the Squamish Buttress known as the Squamish Butt Face via Banana Peel (5.7) and Boomstick Crack (5.6) into the crux pitch (5.9) to the summit.

James Armstrong: Olivebridge, NY
$1000 to reach the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Nahanni Provincial Park by fair means, navigating to the Cirque on foot, with no plane/helicopter ride with the goal of climbing Lotus Flower Tower and exploring new surrounding areas.

John Nicholas: Mount Kisco, NY
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with Ryan Lynch.

Ryan Lynch: Westford, MA
$500 to reach the summit of the highest point in the Cordillera Oriental sub-range, Ritacuba Blanco (17,749') in the Colombian Andes via its West Ridge with John Nicholas.

Nan Teh: Brooklyn, NY
$250 to attempt, with Mikhail Martin, to climb their first big wall multi-pitch in Cochamo Valley, specifically the 1,500' 10-pitch route El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, 5.10+.

Mikhail Martin: Queens Village, NY
$250 to travel, with Nan Teh , to learn how to survive in the outdoors, on a big wall, and ascend El Filo La Aleta de Tiburon, while inspiring other climbers from the city, especially climbers of color to get out of their comfort zone, and practice Spanish in Chile.

Matthew Matera: New York, NY
$200 to climb and run through Chamonix, Zermatt, and several towns in the Dolomites, including Run the Dolomites Skyrace, a 3 day run of the Walker Haute Route from Chamonix to Zermatt to prepare for speed objectives including Mount Ritter, Mount Humphrey, and the Tuolumne Meadow Triple Crown in the Sierras in California.

Greg Morrissey: Westfield, NJ
$400 to bike from Vancouver, CA to Tijuana, Mexico and climb Mount Rainier and Mount Hood while raising awareness about the importance of outdoor education and fundraising for financially-restricted high school students to participate in adventure and travel enrichment trips.

Julia Lowd: Brooklyn, NY
$500 to summit the third highest point in North America , Pico de Orizaba and ski down 3,000' from the summit cone of the Jamapa glacier.

Jordan Cargill: Freedom, NH
$800 for a three phase trip to boost crack climbing skills in Vantage, WA, alpine efficiency on the East Face of Mount Whiteny and the North Fairview Dome, and high-altitude mountaineering with an ascent of Pico de Orizaba in Mexico via the Serpents Head route.

Domenic Aiello-Popeo: Silver Lake, NH
$600 to climb Alaska's Mt. Foraker (AKA Sultana, 17,400') via an extremely technical face called the "Fin Wall" and continue up the Southwest Buttress to the summit, traversing the peak and descending to the Kahiltna Glacier.

Patrick Cooke: Newtown, MA
$500 to travel to the Cordillera Blanca for a month and climb some classic high-altitude snow and ice routes in addition to some lesser traveled objectives like the south face of Caraz I and the Jaeger Route on Chacraraju Este.     

Bob Clark: East Hartford, CT
$500 to travel to the township of Araruna in Brazil to establish two first ascents up two different domes between 500' and 600' tall.

Josh Garrison: Katonah, NY
$500 to put up first ascents on multiple formations in the Lofoten Islands in Norway while being a mentor to two friends who are new to alpine fast and light, pioneering objectives.

SOUTHEAST REGION:

The Southeast Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Danny McCracken. Committee members included Dave Giacomin, Brian Payst, and Garrett Gossett.

Aaron Ray: District Of Columbia
$435 to travel to Bolivia to attempt multiple peaks in the Cordillera Real, centered on the Condoriri group and Illiman.

John Gannon: Fairfax, Virginia
$265 to attempt to summit Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route unguided with a group of veterans.

Michelle Xue: District Of Columbia
$320 to climb Nevado Sajama (21,486 ft) and Parinacota (20,767 ft) in June of 2017 with a team of 3 other climbers.

Matt Swaim: Charlotte, North Carolina
Timothy Fry: Belmont, North Carolina

$270 for Matt and $535 for Timothy to navigate the remote, difficult terrain of the Nahanni National Park by foot travel only.

Sam England: Huntsville, Alabama
Ryan Little: Huntsville, Alabama

$435 for Ryan and $570 for Sam to the Sam Ford Fjord region of Baffin Island to attempt a first ascent big wall climb of the Chinese Wall, a large, unclimbed face.

Corey Winstead: Asheville, North Carolina
$520 to further explore the nearly untouched Thunderdome massif in the Ragged Range of the Northwest Territories.

Alex Elizabeth Barringer: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$300 to climb Wolf's Head via its east ridge.

Lindsay Keegan: Baltimore, Maryland
$300 to climb the classic Liberty Ridge of Mount Rainier in Washington.

John Hughes: District Of Columbia
$200 to climb Mount Jefferson via the Whitewater Glacier route and Mount Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route.

Greg Barltrop: Baltimore, Maryland
$280 to climb the Liberty Ridge route to the summit of Mt. Rainier in Washington state.

Phillip Jasper: District Of Columbia
$200 to attempt a back to back climbs of Mt. Jefferson, OR via the Whitewater Glacier as well as travel up to Mt. Rainier and summit via Emmons Glacier. 

Matthew Wikswo: Harrisonburg, Virginia
$270 to attempt a self-guided ascent of Mount Rainer via Ptarmigan Ridge.

Oya Bermek: Cary, North Carolina
$350 to open new alpine routes in Aladaglar (Ala Mountains), which is located at the mountain range of Toros (Taurus) Mountains in southern Turkey.

CENTRAL REGION:

The Central Regional Selection Committee was chaired by James Schroeder. Committee members included Ryan Gajewski, Adam Mitchell, Savannah Buik, and Ryan Maitland.

Samuel Daulton: Chicago, IL
$1,000 to make the first free ascent of Nubivagant (5.13d A0) and the volcanic tower, Pico Cão Grande, on the island nation of São Tomé in Africa.

Adam Happensack: Englewood, OH
$1,000 to fly into the southern prong of the Pitchfork Glacier in Alaska's Neacola Mountains - there they hope to explore and make the first ascent of a pair of unnamed peaks.

Corey McCarthy, Oconomowoc, WI
$750 to do a sea-to-summit expedition in Alaska approaching the Devil's Thumb via Thomas Bay and the Baird Glacier.

Carey deVictoria-Michel: Excelsior, MN
$500 to travel to Patagonia to climb Chiaro Di Luna (5.10+) - a twenty-pitch alpine rock adventure.

Lucy Westlake: Naperville, IL
$500 to become the youngest female to summit the highest points in all fifty states, she will complete that journey this summer on the flanks of Denali.

Edward Kowalski: Independence, OH
$250 to fulfill a lifelong dream of climbing Yosemite's, El Capitan, via Tangerine Trip (5.9 C3+ VI).

ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION:

The Rocky Mountain Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Dakota Walz. Committee members included Mitch Dorsk, Shingo Ohkawa, and Steve Taylor.

Kelly Stewart: Salt Lake City, UT
$375 to climb the Beckey Chouinard route on South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos.

Aidan Goldie: Jamestown, CO
$400 to climb and ski off the 18,490 ft Pico de Orizaba volcano in Mexico.

Paul Barish: Leadville, CO
$850 to climb 2,000' south-east face of Lotus Flower Tower, a pure and aesthetic alpine rock route that just beckons to be climbed.

Ryan Kuehn: Boulder, CO
$425 to travel down to Chile to climb in Valle Cochamo.

Lea Linse: Colorado Springs, CO
$350 to travel to Yosemite NP and climb Astroman (5.11), Steck-Salathe (5.10), and hopefully either the Nose (5.9 C2) or Lurking Fear (5.7 C2) on El Capitan

Michael Riley: Sat Lake City, UT
$500 to travel to San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina to climb Objectivo Luna, an 8 pitch 5.10c route. 

Michael Scott: Salida, CO
$200 to travel to the Alaskan range to attempt the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington.

Annie Brewster: Denver, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.

Igor Tomcej: Denver, CO
$380 to travel to Peru and do the second ascent of the route Los Checos Banditos on La Esfinge.

John Sittler: Boulder, CO
$200 to climb the Beckey-Chouinard route on South Howser Tower as the culmination of a month-long climbing road trip.

Kevin Cantwell: Salt Lake City, UT
$350 to climb All Along the Watchtower, 5.11 C2- on North Howser Tower in the Bugaboos, located in British Colombia, Canada.

Mitchell Hodge: Fort Collins, CO
$300 to attempt 1 route on the North Face of the Lost Twin Lakes Cirque in Cloud Peak Wilderness of Bighorn National Forest WY.

Ben Peters: Salt Lake City, UT
$770 to climb the British Route (5.12 a/b 700m) on Nalumasortoq and War and Peace (5.12c 1000m) on Ulamertorsuaq and attempt to establish a new line on the west of Nalumasortoq.

Matt Berry: Salt Lake City, UT
$800 to technical climb routes on peaks such as Alpamayo, Tocllaraju, Artesonraju, and Taulliraju of Peru.

Ellie Gilbertson: Colorado Springs, CO
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska.

Karen Bockel: Jackson, WY
$825 to climb the Peuterey Integral on Mont Blanc, one of the longest alpine ridge climbs in the Alps, and the world.

Kelsey Brasseur: Carbondale, CO
$775 to spend a month climbing and establishing new routes in Li Ming, China.

NORTHWEST REGION:

The Northwest Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Erin Schneider. Committee members included Andrew Puhl, Graham Zimmerman, Jean Spencer, and TNF athlete Peter Athans.

John Bergeleen: Cheney, WA
$300 to climb of the Upper Exum Ridge, or Exum Direct on the Grand Teton.

James Paul Blackmon: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb Mongo Ridge – the southwest ridge of Mt. Fury in the Pickets range of Washington State, and a first ascent on the Pole of Remoteness, which will be called "Mongo Direct".

Cameron Brown: Clackamas, OR
$300 to climb The Salathe Wall and The Nose on El Capitan.

Paul Calabro: Belgrade, MT
$300 for a lightweight ascent of the Infinite Spur on Mt. Foraker (Sultana) in the Alaska Range.

Tom Chambers: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb one or more routes in the vicinity of Peak 1939, up to Grade V with climbing difficulties up to 5.10 A1. Access to the routes would involve sea kayaking approx. 60km North from Kulusuk up the Angmagssalik fjord to the North-West inlet of Qigertivaq. From the coast we would hike approx 12km to the base of the route.

Kimberly Couri: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

Bill Dean: Juneau, AK
$400 to support a solely human-powered unassisted exploration into remote Alaska, during winter, attempting the first winter ascent of Devil's Paw (8,504').

Eric DeChaine: Bellingham, WA
$300 to perform a botanical survey of Mt. Waddington in British Columbia, to document how plant diversity changes with elevation under the current climate conditions. To do so, they will climb the mountain via the Bravo Glacier route.

Stephen Lezak: Portland, OR
$500 to travel to Mongolia for ski mountaineering in the Altai Mountains with one first ascent.

Sam Linnet: Hailey, ID
$300 to climb and ski all seven, 12,000 foot peaks in the Lost River Range in Idaho in one, fast and light push.

Nicholas Lyon: Bellingham, WA
$400 to wrap up a handful of two year old projects and establish new bouldering problems in classic and new areas alike in Rocklands, South Africa.

Tammy Martin: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

Luke Montgomery: Seattle, WA
$300 to climb the East Buttress and East Face of Mt. Whitney.

Chris Mutzel: Sun Valley, ID
$400 to complete the Waddington Traverse.

David Norris: Anchorage, AK
$300 to ski across the Harding Icefield on cross-country racing gear- starting in Seward and ending in Homer, Alaska.

Joseph Peters: Spokane, WA
$400 to climb the Cassin Ridge (Alaska Grade 5, 5.8, AI 4) in a single push alpine style after acclimating on the West Buttress of Denali.

Randall Stacy: Boise, ID
$400 to climb in the Chalten Massif in Patagonia – specifically Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

Kellie Standish: Bend, OR
$500 to climb and ski Mt. Hood, acting as support for teammate Anna Soens, also awarded a LYD grant, seeking to become the first female paraplegic to climb and ski Mt. Hood.

Erik Turner: Seattle, WA
$300 to complete the Olympic Skyline Traverse in the Olympic Mountains, WA.

Ida Vincent: Seattle, WA
$500 to climb Ama Dablam in Nepal. The expedition will consist of three female climbers from Seattle.

WESTERN REGION:

The Western Regional Selection Committee was chaired by Matt Ulrey. Committee members included Laurie Berliner, Tony Yeary, Paul Hendricks, TNF athlete Dave Allfrey, and TNF staff member Rachel Gray.

Jeff Gardner: Coronado, California
$750 to climb and summit Mount Rainier by way of the technically demanding Kautz Glacier approach with an advanced course from Alpine Ascents International.

Scott Larson: San Diego, California
$750 to climb the West Rib route on Denali. We will ski to 14000 ft camp via the West Buttress route, then descend via the "Seattle '72 Ramp" on foot to the base of the West Rib. From here, they hope to climb the West Rib to the summit and return down the West Buttress to our skis.

Marisa Earll: La Jolla, California
$350 to travel to the Wind Rivers and lead five, 5.10 routes on 5 of the most prominent and spectacular formations in the Cirque of Towers and Deep Lake.

Kenneth Huskey: Chico, California
$750 to document the Nepali people's experience with climate change while we simultaneously level up their climbing.

Kara Herson: Redwood City, California
$1000 to climb three different spires in the Bugaboos, and exploring the amazing climbing opportunities (and hoping for good weather days) over 2 to 3 weeks.

Diana Wendt: Mammoth Lakes, California
$1000 to spend a month in the Tasermiut Fjord in southeast Greenland in the valley below Ulamertorsuaq climbing the classic granite lines and establishing a new line.

Josh Dibble: Idyllwild, California
$750 to climb Aconcagua solo via the normal route.

Brett Webster: Piedmont, California
$750 to attempt a multi-modal (boat, ski, hike, climb) traverse of Mt. Fairweather, Alaska.

Alix Morris: Bishop, California
$500 to establish a first ascent up the Angel Wings with the intent of free climbing this route as well. Alix would like to go ground up, capsule style establishing each pitch, fixing it with hardware, and free'ing it if possible.

David Whiting: Soquel, California
$250 to climb three Zion big walls in three days. The plan is to climb some of Zion's most classic walls: Spaceshot, Moonlight Buttress, and Touchstone.

Cris Valerio: San Francisco, California
$200 to climb The Nose on El Capitan this Fall. We hope to finish the route in 3-5 days with a combination of free climbing and aid climbing.

Mark Hudon: Carson City, Nevada
$500 to climb Freerider on El Cap in Yosemite at the youthful age of 61!

John Greer: Modesto, California
$750 to make the first ascent of Talliktok, a peak in the Hidden Mountains. Zack Clanton described his Alaskan adventure in the 2016 AAJ publication.

Mac McCaleb: Prescott, Arizona
$200 to summit three peaks in the Bugaboos: Snowpatch Spire, Pigeon Spire, and Bigaboo Spire.

Gregory Carlisle: Tahoe City, California
$500 to return with a dedicated partner and attempt some of the classic summits of the Chalten Massif. Routes they have considered are not groundbreaking or new, but classic and traditional Patagonia summits.

Nathan Duray: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.

Kevin Kent: Flagstaff, Arizona
$500 to visit the Cirque of the Unclimbables and free climb Lotus Flower Tower in a push.

Clarence Thost: Santa Barbara, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.

Catherine Tao: Bishop, California
$400 to gain experience in basic mountaineering and glacier travel skills by attempting the summits of Dragontail Peak and Colchuck Peak in the Enchantments in Washington.

Darrow Feldstein: Santa Cruz, California
$300 to climb all the Sierra 14ers in one thru-hike. The entire journey is approximately 80 miles on the map and will have a total gain and loss of 36,000 to 40,000+ feet.

Annie Laurie Hines: Davis, California
$200 to undertake a granite pilgrimage that begins in the Cascades and ends in the Bugaboos. Though they will spend a month climbing together in preparation, their final objective is a two-day ascent of the Beckey-Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower.

Erik Hanschen: Tucson, Arizona
$500 to become a better mountaineer and hone his skills for larger adventures by summiting three major Cascade volcanoes: Mt. Rainier, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Hood.

Gregory Powell: Redondo Beach, California
$500 to climb the Salathe Wall on El Capitan. First he will become more comfortable with serious chimneys and offwidths by going to Vedauwoo and Joshua Tree.

Maria Hart: Tahoe City, California
$500 to visit Patagonia to climb the Whillans-Cochrane route on Poincenot, the Brenner-Moschioni or Amy-Vidailhet route on Aguja Guillaumet, the Filo Noreste or Francesa/ Franco-Argentine linkup on Fitz Roy, along with other smaller objectives as weather permits.

Eric Munsing: South Lake Tahoe, California
$350 to climb the Evolution Traverse, an 8-mile Grade VI 5.9 ridge traverse which summits nine peaks in the central Sierra Nevadas in California.

Elizabeth Gill: San Anselmo, California
$550 to complete a women's fastest known time (FKT) run of the 40km (4,204m elevation gain) Selvaggio Blu, or Wild Blu, on the island of Sardinia.

Marissa Stender: Pleasanton, California
$300 to help fund a trip to Grand Teton National Park (GTNP) to climb and ski the Skillet on Mount Moran.

Bria Riggs: Truckee, California
$400 to combine mountaineering and scientific research in order to investigate how climate change is affecting the Cordillera Blanca region of Peru.

Nathaniel Goodby: Oakland, California
$200 to do a self-supported thru-hike all of California's 13 fourteeners in the Sierra Nevada.

SKI/SNOWBOARD MOUNTAINEERING SPECIFIC:

The Ski/Snowboard Mountaineering Selection Committee was chaired by Mike Marolt. Committee members included Drew Seessel, Charlotte Fox, Kit DesLauriers, and Hilaree O'neill.

Sonia Szczesna: New Brunswick NJ
$250 to climb & ski winter routes in the Polish Tatras—humble mountains where their fathers cut their teeth and the training grounds for many a 8000-meter winter first ascent. Their main objective is climbing the 300m ice route variation of the summer route "Filar Staszla" and skiing down the back side of "Granaty" which the route crests.

Christopher Bruno: Ann Arbor MI
$900 for a Sea-Summit-Sea Traverse of Fairweather Range, including attempt on Mount Fairweather. This expedition will attempt to incorporate 4 skill sets to traverse the Fairweather range of SE Alaska.  We will start in Juneau in a sailboat, for a 160 nautical mile transit to Lituya Bay.  They will then climb into the mountains from the beach drop off, and attempt Mount Fairweather and then exit the mountains via skis and packrafts to Haines.

Payson Patridge: Bozeman MT
$250 to climb and ski Pico de Orizaba in Mexico.

Jonathan Ronzio, Brookline MA
$750 to climb and splitboard Denali as a follow-up to his award-winning adventure-philanthropy film made in 2013, Between The Peaks.

David Wade: Wilson WY
$700 to climb & ski Pik Lenin (23,406ft) in Kyrgystan.

Lisa Verwys: Bozeman MT
$600 to be the first female team to traverse Yellowstone National Park from the north (Cooke City, MT) to the south (Flagg Ranch near Jackson, WY), creating a new route which will take her through some of the most remote areas of the park. The trip will be done entirely on backcountry skis and with attempts of ski descents of several of Yellowstone’s remote peaks along the way, including Mt. Chittenden, Little Saddle, Hague, Saddle, Cathedral, Pyramid, and several unnamed peaks.

Maddie Miller: Forest Knolls CA
$500 to ski first descents in the Wrangell St. Elias Range in Alaska with the goal to do single push climbing and skiing objectives, starting from our basecamp on the Bagley Ice Field, which is located in the St. Elias Range.

Robert Cipperly: Troy NY
$300 to climb and ski four different volcanoes that lie close to the border of Chile and Argentina—Lonquimay, Lliama, Villirica and Lanin.

Anna Soens: Boise ID
$750 to climb Mt. Hood via the South Side Route and become the first female paraplegic to do so, and potentially bagging the first non-mechanized paraplegic ascent. She plans to ski (i.e., monoski) as much of the descent as possible.

Bears Ears National Monument Postcard Writing Toolkit

Postcard by AAC Content Coordinator Emma Longcope

The official public comment period on Bears Ears started May 12 and has been extended. It now closes on July 10. 

The Department of the Interior is, for the first time ever, asking the public to officially weigh in on the national monuments under review, per President Trump's April 26, 2017 Executive Order. We only have until July 10 to provide input during this public comment period.

Now more than ever we need your voice to help protect Bears Ears National Monument. Find out more about the Bears Ears issue here and read AAC member John Climaco's opinion piece about it here. You can also learn more by reading about our recent trip to D.C. to Climb the Hill

Why a postcard? 

The Department of the Interior accepts comments both online and by mail. Adding your name to a petition or online comment chain is important. A unique and tangible note, however, carries extra weight with elected officials. 

Click on the button below to use our pre-addressed postcard template that you can print out and send to the Department of Interior. (Tip: print double-sided with card stock paper.)

Writing Tips:

Make it personal: Share your story about why you love Bears Ears National Monument.

Provide a call to action: Ask the Department of Interior to protect Bears Ears National Monument.

Use some of the suggested messages below or craft your own. Feel free to edit these messages and add your voice.

-The Bears Ears region in southeastern Utah is one of the greatest climbing destinations in the U.S. I love to climb in the Bears Ears area because.... 

-I support the Bears Ears National Monument because it protects climbing and significant Native American cultural sites.

-The Antiquities Act is a valuable tool for protecting America's heritage.

-Do not rescind or reduce Bears Ears National Monument.


Our template includes the Department of the Interior's address, but if you're making your own, address it to: 

Monument Review, MS-1530
U.S. Department of the Interior
1849 S Street NW
Washington, DC 20240


Time is running out! No time for a postcard?

You can:


Thank you for helping to preserve this wonderful place! We're stronger together.


Artwork: AAC staff member Emma Longcope

Climbers Lobby for Public Lands

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

On May 11th, 2017, the AAC and Access Fund joined forces in our nation’s capital to Climb the Hill to advocate for public lands, the outdoor recreation economy and adequate funding for land management agencies. With a team of 50 climbers—including Tommy CaldwellSasha DiGiulianAlex HonnoldKai Lightner and Libby Sauter—we dispersed throughout Capitol Hill to meet with members of Congress and leaders of land management agencies.

Climbers showed up in force and found a responsive audience. Lawmakers were impressed by the unique perspectives of the climbing community. 

Learn more about our impact and experience in our Policy Update


Did you miss us live in DC? Watch it here.


Climbers Lobby for Public Lands

Climbers and policymakers discuss the future of our public lands. Stephen Gosling photo. 

On May 11th, 2017, the AAC and Access Fund joined forces in our nation’s capital to Climb the Hill to advocate for the protection of public lands, a robust outdoor recreation economy and adequate funding for land management agencies. With a team of 50 climbers—including Tommy CaldwellSasha DiGiulianAlex HonnoldKai Lightner and Libby Sauter—we dispersed throughout Capitol Hill to meet with members of Congress and leaders of the Department of Interior and the U.S. Forest Service. Over the course of the day, we attended 50 meetings on the Hill and with agency leaders.

Climbers showed up in force and found a responsive audience. Lawmakers were impressed by the unique perspectives of the climbing community. For example, Tommy Caldwell captured their attention when he began, “Fifty percent of my days are spent living and climbing on our public lands. Public lands matter to me because...” As climbers, we are experts on the value of public lands because we know them intimately and spend significant amounts of time on them.

Climb the Hill culminated with a Congressional Briefing to further provide members of Congress and staff from both sides of the aisle with a climber’s perspective. The briefing was packed, with standing room only. Speakers included Sasha DiGiulian, Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold and Senator Tim Kaine (former Vice Presidential candidate).

Climb the Hill was made possible by title sponsor Adidas and with contributions from The North Face and Brooklyn Boulders.

Alex Honnold speaks to the importance of public lands. Stephen Gosling photo.

What's at Stake

About 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federal public lands—lands which are held in trust for all Americans. However, right now, there are unprecedented threats to our public lands. Both state and federal lawmakers have introduced legislation to sell off millions of acres, weaken public management, underfund land management agencies, and increase land development at the cost of public access. These measures threaten climbing as well as the fundamental notion that our public lands belong to everyone. As climbers, we have a responsibility to speak up.

Some members of the lobbying team. Stephen Gosling photo. 

How You Can Help

As climbing grows in popularity, climbers’ voices are an increasingly influential force for public policy issues. From now until May 26th, 2017, climbers are needed to speak up for Bears Ears National Monument, the first national monument to list climbing as a valued activity in its proclamation. Bears Ears contains world-class climbing, including Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch/Texas Canyon, Comb Ridge and Valley of the Gods. President Trump’s April 26th Executive Order on the review of national monuments lists Bears Ears National Monument as the first priority for review. We need your help to communicate to the administration that the Bears Ears National Monument has incredible significance to our community and must remain protected. As Libby Sauter said during Climb the Hill, policy is determined by those who show up. Please write letters, call, email and tweet at Secretary Zinke to ensure the administration knows how much Bears Ears means to us. For more information, check out the notice issued by the Department of the Interior.

You can:

  • Use the climbers’ letter writing tool.

  • Submit comments online at http://www.regulations.gov by entering “DOI-2017-0002” in the Search bar and clicking “Search.”

  • Send snail mail to: Monument Review, MS-1530, U.S. Department of the Interior, 1849 C Street NW., Washington, DC 20240. (use our postcard template)

  • Call the Department of the Interior with any questions: Randal Bowman, 202-208-1906.

  • Tweet at Secretary Ryan Zinke: @SecretaryZinke.

The lobbying group at the Capital. Stephen Gosling photo. 

Looking Ahead

Climb the Hill made a strong impression on our lawmakers. AAC and AF will Climb the Hill together again next year and, in the meantime, we will continue to advocate for the protection of public lands and strive to make a lasting, positive impact.


P.S. Did you miss our live coverage from DC? Watch it here:


Check it out

The American Alpine Club Library isn’t just home to historic mountaineering ephemera but also maintains thousands of circulating items. As AAC members you have access to these items by logging into your library profile at: booksearch.americanalpineclub.org and requesting them through the “Get It Now!” feature. Books will be mailed to the mailing address you have on file (so make sure it’s current), all you have to pay for is return shipping. Averaging 230 items circulated to just 60 members each month, the greatest benefit to AAC membership (potentially biased opinion) is going under utilized by the majority of members. 

The library has everything you need from training guidebooks for all levels, hiking and climbing guides for your local crag or wherever you may be off to, and mountaineering narratives, literature and videos for rest days.

AAC Volunteers Bring New Heights Program to Underserved Kids

A report from AAC Triangle Chapter Chair David Thoenen

AAC Volunteer: “What's most fun about climbing?”
Shalynn, age 12: “Belaying… because that's when my friends know that I've got their back.”


The AAC Triangle Chapter's New Heights program for underserved children began with an informal outing in the fall of 2014. A dozen or so kids enrolled in a YMCA mentoring program for at-risk children spent an evening with AAC volunteers, enjoying their first climbing experience. The Y and the Triangle Rock Club North Raleigh, provided logistical support while AAC volunteers belayed, cheered and laid out a pizza spread.

It was so much fun that the group did it again a month later. The seed had been planted.

AAC volunteers Rebecca Lem, Derek Morgan, Cathy Kramer and John Dagenhart recognized that the chapter could do more for the kids than simply get them into the gym for special outings. They proposed the creation of an ongoing outreach program, which launched in February 2015 with support from the Y, the Triangle Rock Club, and a dozen more AAC volunteers. Connie Lightner (Kai Lightner’s mother) and lead volunteer Rebecca christened the program New Heights.

Iyana Cropped.jpg

New Heights is a program, not an event. Twelve kids per location are enrolled in the fall and expected to attend monthly sessions during the school year. In addition to offering climbing skill development, the program emphasizes character development, particularly goal-setting, positive interaction and relationships with adults and peers, physical fitness and a healthy lifestyle.

Each monthly session is structured to focus on both the kids' individual objectives and the program's objectives. On arrival, each child is expected to pick-up their shoes and harnesses and gear up independently. After stretching, individuals will work on a combination of bouldering problems and top-roping skills with their AAC climbing mentor. The evening wraps up with a pizza or sandwich dinner buffet for all.

It's great to see kids moving up the YDS scale at the gym. But it's maybe even better to see the older kids like Shaylynn taking on the challenge and responsibility of belaying, letting friends know they’ve “got their back.” 

A program that begins each school year with some fear of heights and general apprehension, ultimately yields significant personal growth. Y Learning leader Jennifer Watson has seen the growing self-confidence in all of her participating students – a development that translates to their academic perseverance and supportive interactions with peers, tutors and mentors.

In February 2017, the program expanded to support a new YMCA branch with a community of predominately Latino children. New Heights is now running monthly at two Triangle Rock Club location, supports two YMCA branches, and has over 20 AAC volunteers.

Thanks to local fundraising support and a generous scholarship from the Triangle Rock Club, this summer New Heights will sponsor twelve children from each location to attend one week of climbing day camp at the Triangle Rock Club. Also, in July, the program will fully sponsor two teenagers to attend a week of residential outdoor rock climbing at YMCA Camp Hanes! In 2018, New Heights plans to bring another Y branch into the program at the North Carolina State University climbing wall.

Growth requires solid program management. For the past two years, AAC volunteer John White has done a superb job as the New Heights Program Director, delivering an outstanding program across both locations.

“I've enjoyed supporting a program where perseverance and tenacity are nurtured through fun, exciting and engaging physical activity,” John says. “The program gives our kids the opportunity to apply their own definitions for success and failure to climbing. From there, I hope our kids are better prepared to apply the same goal-setting feedback to their everyday activities.”

John is supported by over twenty-five AAC climbing volunteer mentors and the chapter's New Heights Steering Committee, which includes long-term New Heights volunteers Ashton Drew and Bob Silk and is chaired by Brian Peters.  

Interested in learning more about our chapter program? Check out opportunities by location to find out what’s happening near you.


Secretary Zinke Visits Utah to Review Bears Ears National Monument

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Secretary Zinke arrived in southeastern Utah on May 7th to assess Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments. His visit is the result of President Trump’s April 26, 2017 Executive Order that directs the Department of Interior to review the Antiquities Act and select national monuments designated over the last 21 years.

Bears Ears National Monument holds incredible significance to the climbing community. It is home to world-class climbing areas like Indian Creek and Valley of the Gods, and it is the first national monument proclamation that acknowledges the importance of rock climbing. 

Bears Ears was listed as a priority under Trump’s Executive Order, and an initial report is due by June 10, 2017. Zinke intends to review the process by which Bears Ears was designated a national monument, in order to determine if it complied with the law. If this review is comprehensive and transparent, Access Fund, American Alpine Club and Outdoor Alliance believe it will find that the monument, in its entirety, is justified. The previous administration spent years conducting a thorough assessment of the Bears Ears region that included a wide spectrum of stakeholders—including climbers—and this process resulted in a well-substantiated national monument boundary that protects threatened cultural resources and recreation areas.

We are pleased that Secretary Zinke has agreed to meet with the Inter-tribal Coalition. The coalition of Native American Tribes is an important stakeholder group that will stress the importance of protecting the entire Bears Ears region, as well as describe their role in the multi-year effort to protect the sensitive landscape. We encourage Secretary Zinke to eventually meet with all stakeholder groups, including the climbing community, to ensure a comprehensive review. Access Fund has reached out to Secretary Zinke to offer a private tour of Indian Creek in order to share the climbing community’s perspective on the region’s recreation resources. Climbers will also meet with his staff next week during Climb the Hill to discuss a range of public land issues including Bears Ears.

Access Fund, American Alpine Club, and Outdoor Alliance will continue to interface with the Department of Interior throughout the national monument review process. The Department of Interior is only accepting comments on Bears Ears National Monument for 15 days after they publish their official notice shortly, and we will send an action alert to mobilize climbers.  

Other national monuments under review that contain climbing areas are San Gabriel Mountains and Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monuments. We will keep the climbing community posted on the national monument review process, but in the meantime please send Secretary Zinke comments regarding the exceptional value of Bears Ears National Monument.

AAC Announces 2017 Research Grant Recipients

Photo by Matt Jenkins of Research Grant recipient Kate McHugh.

Photo by Matt Jenkins of Research Grant recipient Kate McHugh.

We're proud to announce the recipients of the 2017 Research Grants.

Our Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. As climbers, we have a responsibility to understand how our outdoor resources are being affected in changing world. Part of the AAC’s mission is to respect and support the areas we enjoy, one of the most important ways to do that is by funding research to better understand such environments.


May 1, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2017 Research Grants, powered by the Alliance for Sustainable Energy and supported by the following endowments: Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Fund, Scott Fischer Memorial Fund, Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund. The AAC Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. As climbers, we have a responsibility to understand how our outdoor resources are being affected in changing world. Part of the AAC’s mission is to respect and support the areas we enjoy, one of the most important ways to do that is by funding research to better understand such environments.

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Research Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2017 Research Grant recipients:

Kate McHugh – $1,500
Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications in the National Park System, Grand Canyon National Park and Joshua Tree National Park
Kate McHugh is pursuing a Masters in Applied Geospatial Analysis, Geography, Planning, and Recreation at the University of Arizona. She is conducting a study that will determine what variables or indicators should be monitored and measured for climbing management strategies in National Park Service wilderness.

Cristian Rios – $1,000
Ecology and conservation of Polylepis ecosystem and its bird community, Peru
Cristian Rios is a Peruvian Ph.D. student at Cornell University in Conservation Science, entering his fourth year of field work. He is investigating the possible link of habitat loss and habitat fragmentation to the population declines of several threatened bird species in the Polylepsis forests of Huascaran National Park.

Rebecca Finger – $1,000
Limits to shrub expansion in a warmer Arctic, Greenland
Rebecca Finger is a Ph.D. student and NSF Fellow in Ecology at Dartmouth. She is examining the response of shrubs in the Arctic tundra to global warming and its effect on the permafrost over the past 50 years. In addition to conducting research, she will spend some of her time in Greenland helping teach and mentor local high school youth.

Kaitlyn Hanley – $1,000
The persistence of American pika in the Greater Yellowstone Region under a warmer future climate, Montana and Wyoming
Kaitlyn Hanley is a Masters student in Biological Sciences at Clemson. She is investigating both how and why pikas are surviving at lower elevations than previously reported in the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem.

Nathalie Chardon – $750
Disturbance impacts on alpine plant populations at elevational and climatic limits, Colorado
Nathalie Chardon is a Ph.D. candidate in Environmental Studies at University of Colorado, Boulder. She is researching human impacts on biodiversity competition at limits of moss campion’s range, (e.g. hiker disturbance and trampling, and how effects change with elevation).

Chris Cosgrove – $750
Open-source automated weather stations for wireless sensor networks in high altitude/latitude environments, Oregon and Alaska
Chris Cosgrove is a 1st year Ph.D. student at Oregon State University’s Mountain Hydroclimatology group. He is developing and testing a prototype open-source automated weather station that will be integrated into a long-range wireless sensor network. If successful, it should be robust enough to endure winter-long deployment in a remote backcountry site.

Jess Gilbert – $500
Assessing the impact of anthropogenic activities on high altitude biodiversity in Huascaran National Park, Peru
Jess Gilbert is a Ph.D. student in the Department of Wildlife and Fisheries Sciences at Texas A&M University. She is exploring the spatial use of habitat by mammalian carnivores in both ‘pristine’ environments and areas affected by livestock grazing or tourism activities in Huascaran National Park, Peru.

Emily Schultz – $500
The importance of within-patch heterogeneity for metapopulation dynamics of a high elevation pine, Oregon
Emily Shultz is a Ph.D. candidate and NSF fellow in the Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at Rice University. She is developing models predicting the heterogeneity of whitebark pine and impact of heterogeneity on resilience. This research elevates the predictive analysis possible for metapopulations of the endangered conifer.

Win McLaughlin – $500
Initiation and timing of uplift of the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan
Win McLaughlin is a Ph.D. candidate in the Department of Geological Sciences at the University of Oregon. He will conduct field work to collect and compare fossils and rock cores from two basins in the Tien Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan to constrain the timing and rate of their uplift.

Anya Tyson – $500
The Clark’s Nutcracker Citizen Science Project: Engaging young adventurers in research and conservation, Wyoming
Anya Tyson is a Masters student in the Conservation Ecology and Field Naturalist Program at University of Vermont and the coordinator of the Clark’s Nutcracker Citizen Science Project. She is an active science communicator who specializes in training instructors from NOLS, Teton Science Schools, and other organizations on how to educate their students about the whitebark pine ecosystem.

Daniel Winkler – $500
Biodiversity collapse: how a keystone species mediates biodiversity of Ecuadorian alpine areas responding to climate change, Ecuador
Daniel Winkler is a Ph.D. candidate in Ecology and Evolutionary Biology at University of California, Irvine. He is conducting research to test if climate change-induced range shifts of the vulnerable X. rigidum (a keystone nurse plant species) have occurred on the dry western slopes in the rain shadow of Mount Chimborazo, Ecuador.

Alison Criscitiello – $500
Histories of Arctic climate and environmental contaminants from a shallow ice core, Grant Ice Cap, Ellesmere Island, Canada
Alison Criscitiello is a post-doctoral researcher in the Cryosphere Climate Research Group at the University of Calgary, Canada and the Technical Director of the Canadian Ice Core Archive at the University of Alberta. Her research focuses on reconstructing climate and sea ice histories of the Arctic Ocean, as well as examining the presence of pollutants through time.

Rachael Mallon – $500
Phylogeography of Snow Algae Communities in the Pacific Northwest, California, Oregon, Washington
Rachael Mallon is a Masters student in Biology at Western Washington University. She is investigating the effects of snow algae on accelerating melting of snow pack in the Western United States from the Sierra Nevada through the Cascade Range.

Peter Billman – $250
Understanding how changing snowpacks and water availability affect patterns of distributional change in the American pika
Peter Billman is beginning a Ph.D. program at Montana State University. He is investigating the effects of water-availability on the windward (west-facing) and leeward (east-facing) sides in several mountain ranges on the location and distribution of the American pika.

AAC Research Grant Selection Committee

  • Sarah Vail, Committee Chair

  • Danika Gilbert

  • Louis Reichardt

  • Matt Hepp

  • Katie Rose Fischer-Price

With support from: Maria Povec, Research Grant Coordinator, AAC staff and Jonathan Oulton, AAC Policy Program intern

American Alpine Club and Access Fund Host Second Annual Climb the Hill Event

Celebrated climbers Conrad Anker, Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter will join the American Alpine Club and Access Fund to represent the climbing community in Washington D.C. for Climb the Hill, an event sponsored by Adidas. On May 11, 2017, both organizations, alongside a team of elite climbers and outdoor industry partners, will meet with Congressional representatives and policymakers to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation and improved climbing management.


April 26, 2017, Golden, CO— Celebrated climbers Conrad Anker, Tommy Caldwell, Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Kai Lightner and Libby Sauter will join the American Alpine Club and Access Fund to represent the climbing community in Washington D.C. for Climb the Hill, an event sponsored by Adidas. On May 11, 2017, both organizations, alongside a team of elite climbers and outdoor industry partners, will meet with Congressional representatives and policymakers to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation and improved climbing management.

The team of rock climbing advocates will share their experiences on public lands with members of Congress and top federal land agency officials. They will also advocate for appropriate funding levels and balanced land management policies that support outdoor recreation and conservation.  

“Climbers have a vested interest in what happens in D.C., and showing up to make our voice heard is key to the future of the sport,” stated Brad Brooks, AAC Board member and Policy Committee member. “By working together with industry and partner organizations, we form a stronger united front to voice the climbing community’s concerns to our representatives.”

Access Fund estimates that about 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federal public lands. The American Alpine Club and Access Fund will advocate to protect The Antiquities Act, as well as voice their opposition to proposals that would diminish the value of federal recreation assets and sell or transfer federal public lands to states or private entities.

“Threats to federal public lands constitute the greatest threat to rock climbing we’ve ever faced. The most iconic climbing areas in the country are found on our public lands, and our mission is to make sure that these climbing areas are protected and conserved for future generations,” said Erik Murdock, Access Fund policy director.

“Public lands are not only the backbone of outdoor recreation, they also support a healthy economy,” said Brooks. According to The Outdoor Recreation Economy Report, 2017 by the Outdoor Industry Association, outdoor recreation (now included in the GDP), generates $887 billion in consumer spending and 7.6 million jobs annually. This sum nearly amounts to what Americans spend on pharmaceuticals and motor vehicles combined.

For more information on how you can support the Climb the Hill campaign, visit climbthehill.org.

AAC Statement on President Trump’s Executive Order for a 
Review of Existing National Monument Designations under the Antiquities Act

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

AAC Statement on President Trump’s Executive Order for a Review of Existing National Monument Designations under the Antiquities Act

April 26, 2017: This morning President Trump signed an executive order instructing the Interior Department to review all national monuments designated under the Antiquities Act since 1996. An interim report will be concluded within 45 days and a final report within 120 days of the order.

The American Alpine Club is concerned by how this order will impact the future of critical climbing resources, our public lands and the Antiquities Act—the conservation tool used for more than 100 years to safeguard our country’s important archaeological, historic and scientific resources on public lands. 

Under this review will be the newly designated Bears Ears National Monument—the first national monument to recognize rock climbing as a valued activity in its proclamation. In addition to its spectacular climbing areas, Bears Ears includes more than 100,000 Native American cultural sites. “The creation of Bear Ears National Monument—with its iconic desert climbing, wild canyons and Native American artifacts—represents the best, highest value, and most sustainable use possible of these iconic and spectacular landscapes which are on par with Canyonlands, Arches and Yellowstone,” says AAC board policy member Peter Metcalf.We must be fearless in communicating unambiguously to the president about our absolute commitment to our country’s monuments, especially Bears Ears.”  

Just this week, the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) released its new data: The outdoor recreation economy generates over $887 billion in consumer spending and supports 7.6 million American jobs. The U.S. Department of the Interior reports that visits to our national parks added $35 billion to the U.S. economy in 2016 alone. As OIA’s Executive Director Amy Roberts says,Monuments, many of which have become national parks, have created economic prosperity and jobs in local communities for decades. The vast majority of Americans value their national parks and monuments and want these lands protected.”

AAC Policy Director Maria Povec is currently in D.C. with the Outdoor Industry Association to educate elected leaders about the importance of public lands to the climbing community and the benefits of the outdoor recreation economy. In early May, the AAC will be back in D.C. with the Access Fund to “Climb the Hill” and advocate for places we climb, land management agencies and policies that support outdoor recreation. As Metcalf says, “We best ensure our continued privilege to climb, in part, by educating others about the integral role our public lands play in the vibrancy of our economy, our cultural history, bio-diversity, and the quality of our lives.”

Latest Educational Video: Cleaning an Anchor in Single Pitch

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Like all climbing AAC education resources, cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting has some simple principles that will help climbers find a technical solution to most common anchor-cleaning scenarios. Our most recent Know the Ropes video reminds climbers that anchor-cleaning should ideally be a principle-based procedure because

  • The hardware on the tops of cliffs can vary wildly

  • The stances vary quite a bit

  • The tools climbers have available can vary too. 

These principles will guide viewers to appreciate how safety systems work, how to be more efficient, and how to communicate effectively when cleaning. That kind of perspective helps us analyze our decision making and solve problems in adverse/unexpected conditions.

2017 Excellence in Climbing Awards Announced

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees for lasting contributions both on and off the mountain.

The 2017 inductees are:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.


April 13, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our Excellence in Climbing Awards celebration, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The fundraising event celebrates teamwork and will honor the 2017 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees: Sean Patrick, Dave Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid, Sean and Timmy O’Neill, and former AAC President Doug Walker.

This prestigious award is given to those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. These climbers have inspired a legacy for future climbers, positively impacted the environment, and advanced the fields of science and medicine, all while accomplishing incredible climbing feats.

Learn more about this year’s Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees:

Sean Patrick (1951 - 2009) - For being a recognized leader in the cancer treatment and research community. Sean Patrick spread awareness, compassion and inspiration to other women by founding HERA Ovarian Cancer Foundation, all while continuing to climb.

David Morton and Melissa Arnot Reid - For starting The Juniper Fund, which provides assistance to individuals, families, and communities in underserved countries adversely affected by their work for the mountain-based adventure industry.

Sean and Timmy O’Neill - For their work with Paradox Sports, a community that provides inspiration, opportunities and specialized adaptive equipment so that anyone is able to be an active participant in human-powered sports.

Doug Walker (1950 - 2015) - Former AAC President, committed conservationist, and a true climber’s climber, Doug Walker dedicated his life to the preservation of the outdoors he loved so dearly through his service on a variety of boards and generous giving.

In addition, the American Alpine Club will present the 2017 Cutting Edge Award to recipients Graham Zimmerman and Scott Bennett for their first ascent on the Southwest Ridge of K6 West, a 7,040-meter (23,097-foot) peak in the Karakoram.

Each year, the AAC recognizes one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrated excellence in climbing, upheld the values of the American Alpine Club, and acted in a manner befit a world-class ambassador to American climbing both domestically and abroad.The team was supported by the American Alpine Club’s Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Grant.

The teamwork themed celebration will be held on Saturday June 3, 2017 at the Westin located at 1672 Lawrence Street, Denver, CO 80202. The evening includes presentations by award winners and attendees will enjoy a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and food. An after party featuring live music by 80’s cover band, The Goonies, drinks, and gear giveaway will take place directly after the dinner also at Westin.

All proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.

Darby Communications Selects the AAC for Stand Up Initiative

2016 Lobby Day

2016 Lobby Day

The program will provide pro bono PR services to four non-profits in the next 12 months

Asheville, NC – April 6, 2017 – Darby Communications, a boutique public relations agency specializing in the outdoor, fitness and wellness industries, is excited to announce the selections for the 2017 Stand Up Initiative. Launched in February, the program supports select environmentally-focused non-profit organizations with pro bono PR-related services. With the goal of helping to protect and preserve the environment and public lands, Darby Communications chose four organizations making significant positive impacts on the environment, they include: American Alpine Club, Grand Staircase-Escalante Partners, Bee City USA and The Collider.

To kick off the program, Darby Communications will work with the American Alpine Club (AAC), a non-profit that focuses on advocacy and leadership to support the climbing community and promote conservation. Together the organizations will work towards educating the climbing community about the importance of public lands and heighten awareness around the policy work the AAC is doing to preserve our natural spaces.

“We believe that as climbers, we bear the important responsibility of protecting the places we climb and sustaining the climbing community,” says AAC Policy Director Maria Povec. “We are thrilled to have the support of Darby Communications to share our message and encourage climbers to stand up for the wild places we all enjoy.”

The second beneficiary is the Grand Staircase-Escalante Partners, a non-profit committed to preserving and protecting the 1.9 million acre Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument for the use and enjoyment of future generations. Darby Communications will proudly support their campaign to raise awareness about the monument and the importance of protecting it against threats being made to Utah’s public lands.

The final two recipients of the 2017 Stand Up Initiative, Bee City USA and The Collider, are based in Darby Communications’ hometown of Asheville, North Carolina. Bee City USA endorses a set of commitments for creating sustainable habitats for pollinators which are vital to feeding the planet. Through the Initiative, they seek to share their mission to sustain pollinators by providing them with a healthy habitat. Kicking off the first quarter of 2018, Darby will assist The Collider,  an innovation center that exists to bring together diverse expertise and stimulate a new industry of climate products and services globally. The focus of the pro bono services will be to assist The Collider with awareness around ClimateCon 2018, their inaugural conference on the business of climate.

To learn more about the Stand Up Initiative, please visitdarbycommunications.com/standup or contact Megan Torgerson at[email protected].

About Darby Communications

A public relations firm dedicated to meeting and surpassing the needs of their clientele with customized PR and promotional programs, Darby Communications works with many of the outdoor industry’s most respected companies. The firm’s clients include Astral, Aventura, Ecōths, Feetures!, Granite Gear, Headsweats, Hyland’s, Industrial Revolution, Sierra Designs and Tailwind Nutrition. For more information, visit darbycommunications.com and on Instagram.

 

AAC’s Recreational Permitting Mission

Photo: Scott Thompson

Photo: Scott Thompson

The American Alpine Club recognizes how challenging it is for our members to obtain outfitter-guide permits for our National Forests. We’ve heard from climbers who are guides, belong to a regional mountain club and those who work for non-profits that teach climbing that the permitting system is overly complicated and can be a barrier to accessing our commonly-owned public lands.

The AAC is partnering with The Association of Outdoor Recreation & Education, The Wilderness Society, The American Mountain Guide Association and the U.S. Forest Service to simplify and streamline the recreational permitting process on USFS lands. 

Our goal is to assemble a cadre of climbers willing to engage with the Forest Service to improve the permitting system. We’d like you to join our team.

We will teach you about developments in the U.S. Forest Service’s permitting system—specifically the June 2016 guidance on recreational permitting— and the cultural changes underway within the agency. You will develop relationships with your regional Forest Service staff, understand how changes are being implemented and you will have the opportunity to share information with peers seeking access to our National Forests.

Sounds good right? If so, we ask you to carefully consider whether you can make the necessary commitments:

  1. Participate in a webinar training on the June 2016 guidance (April 2017).

  2. Set up a meeting with your local forest (April 2017).

  3. Meet with your local forest and write a short trip report to Maria Povec, AAC’s Policy Director (May-June 2017).

  4. Participate in a group discussion (by conference call) with our team about your experiences engaging with the forests (July-August 2017).

  5. Where appropriate, have follow up meetings with the target forest (remainder of 2017).

As former Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack says, “Our national forests and grasslands have provided inspiration and peace to millions of Americans.” Let’s work together to ensure that future generations will have the opportunity to enjoy our national forests, learn how to climb outdoors and to explore the vertical frontier safely.

If you’re interested in joining the project, please sign up through our Google Form. If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact project lead Maria Povec: [email protected]

A Season at the Climbers’ Ranch: Reservations Open

Photo: AAC staff member Whitney Bradberry

Photo: AAC staff member Whitney Bradberry

The Climbers’ Ranch will be open in 2017 from June 10 through September 12.

Each month of the summer is unique in the Tetons, always providing a perfect time to stay at the Climbers’ Ranch and explore Grand Teton National Park!

In early season, from opening to mid-July, the meadows surrounding the Climbers’ Ranch become daily more resplendent with a pageant of wildflowers. Temperatures are moderate, with sunny days in the 70s or low 80s, and cool evenings perfect for relaxing by the warmth of the woodstove in the Climbers’ Ranch library. The classic Teton climbing routes are in condition for every preference, from long, continuous snow climbs, to routes of mixed rock and snow, to dry rock routes along the canyon walls or in the valley at nearby sites such as Blacktail Butte. During an entire day of hiking or climbing you may encounter only a handful of people, or, in more remote areas, none at all.

The height of summer in the Tetons is from mid-July to late August. The vitality of the Climbers’ Ranch is at its peak, with guests arriving from throughout the United States and many foreign countries. Every day provides an opportunity to meet climbers and other guests who love the Tetons. The hiking trails are all nearly dry, even while Paintbrush Divide, at 10,720 feet, may still bear remnant snow. On the major peaks, snow-climbing routes gradually diminish until even the highest summits may be reached by routes free of ice or snow. Thundershowers arrive and depart quickly in quarters of the afternoon sky. Wildflowers, fading in the valley, still bloom high above the ranch.

Late August and early September are blissful, with crystalline days becoming pleasantly cooler. As the close of the ranch approaches, night-time temperatures fall toward freezing, a reminder that autumn arrives early in the mountains. Cottonwood Creek, which roared in June, murmurs in September, with long reaches of river rock exposed where rapids earlier ran. Aspen turn golden on the Taggart Lake Moraine, and in the brown meadows surrounding the ranch, bugling elk announce the end of the season.

The Climbers’ Ranch constitutes one of the most historically important communities of climbers in the United States. The American Alpine Club has sustained this community since 1970. If you have never stayed at the Climbers’ Ranch, we welcome you to join us for a wonderful experience. If you have stayed at the Climbers’ Ranch before, we will be happy to welcome you again.

The Climbers’ Ranch provides the lowest-priced cabin accommodations in Grand Teton National Park or anywhere in Jackson Hole. Our lodging rates are still $16 per night for AAC members and $25 per night for non-members. Make your reservations now on the AAC website for the 2017 season at the Climbers’ Ranch!

Executive Power over National Monuments: An AAC Member and natural resource law Scholar weighs in on the future of Bears Ears

Photo by Taylor Luneau

Taylor Luneau, AAC member & Natural Resource Law Scholar 

As happens to many climbers on their first trip to Indian Creek, I got spanked! The splitter sandstone was relentless and the grades fleeting. With the absence of face features, it was a whole new ball game for a climber born and raised on northeast schist and granite. However, within a matter of days, the climbing style grew on me and by the end of my first week I was floating up Incredible and Generic Hand Crack, stuffing in a #2 cam every ten feet or so. The trip was a formative one and I was hooked.

Leaving our slice of Heaven was made easier only with the knowledge that the Creek would always be there, waiting for me, nestled there in the canyons with desert washes and endless red rock walls. And, as many did on December 28th, 2016, I celebrated after President Obama issued a Presidential Proclamation establishing Bears Ears National Monument—a 1.35 million acre area area in San Juan County, Utah that encompasses Indian Creek, as well as the Valley of the Gods and Arch Canyon. This Presidential Proclamation is the first to recognize rock climbing as a valued activity and to ensure it as a priority in the management plan. It conserves these climbing meccas for future generations and for my chance of reunion. Or so I thought.

Today, the future of the Bears Ears is uncertain. Utah’s political leadership has formally requested that the President rescind Bears Ears National Monument through a joint resolution. As a legal scholar, I began to investigate if President Trump could actually lawfully abolish the designation of Bears Ears’ national monument status.

The short answer is NO!

But that answer is riddled with caveats and requires an understanding of The Antiquities Act, the law that enables the President to designate National Monuments.

The Antiquities Act of 1906

The Antiquities Act has been used to create more than 100 national monuments and protect 80 million acres of federal land since it was passed in 1906 (1). While the Antiquities Act gives the President authority to declare national monuments, it’s silent about the abolishment of a national monument. The core provisions of the Antiquities Act:

1) Give the President the authority to declare historic landmarks, prehistoric structures and other objects of historic or scientific interest that are situated upon lands owned or controlled by the Federal Government to be National Monuments.

2) Allow that the amount of land reserved must not exceed the smallest area necessary for its proper management. (2)

The Antiquities Act is clear about the President’s authority to create national monuments, but does the President have the authority to reverse a national monument designation?

In 1938, President Roosevelt considered abolishing the Castle Pickney National Monument in South Carolina. However, his Attorney General, Homer Cummings, said the President had no such authority because the law did not authorize the President to abolish national monuments (3). As a result, President Roosevelt did not change the status of the monument. While Roosevelt could not undo Pickney National Monument, it was eventually abolished by Congress in 1956 (4). Although Cummings advice was not a judicial ruling, his statement was the only legal authority to provide a statutory interpretation (5). Cumming's legal analysis was challenged for the first time ever this past week by conservative legal scholars at the American Enterprise Institute but their argument raises constitutional issues and overreach by the Executive Office. 

Although Presidents do not have the authority to abolish national monuments, they have altered monument sizes in order to meet the smallest area compatible criteria. (6) For example, Woodrow Wilson reduced the size of Mount Olympus National Monument in 1915. (7)

If President Trump attempts a full revocation of Bears Ears National Monument, litigation will follow. While courts would likely deny an Executive Order to fully repeal Bears Ears, the President may attempt to alter the size of the monument to meet the smallest area compatible to protect the cultural resources. Such an attempt would require the President to establish that the Monument was designated unnecessarily large for the protection of the scientific, historic or archeological objects of interest-- a fact that would likely be challenged by the Native American Tribes who claim ancestral ties to the landscape. Another consideration here is that The Federal Land Policy Management Act of 1976 (FLPMA) bars the Secretary of the Interior from altering the boundaries of monuments on BLM land so any Executive Order that attempts to direct the Secretary to make adjustments would not be legal (8). 

Congressional Discretion & Implications for Bears Ears National Monument

While the President does not have legal authority to undo a national monument, Congress does. Congress has broad discretion over national monuments primarily because of the Constitution’s Property Clause, which provides Congress the power to make decisions about public lands in the United States. Therefore, Congress does have the constitutional authority to create, modify, and abolish national monuments and it has exercised each of these powers in the past. (9)

What now?

The Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service, in cooperation with the Bears Ears Commission, will continue to work together to create and implement a management plan for the new national monument. Recreation, conservation and tribal groups will be watching closely as the Trump administration and Congress sets its public lands priorities.

In the meantime, as climbers, we must continue to speak up together about why public lands matter and why we value the Bears Ears area in particular. Let’s push back against efforts to weaken federal land protections and undermine conservation designations. We need to vigilantly remind our legislators that we want to keep our public lands in public hands.

Finally, I encourage you all to continue to support groups like the American Alpine Club and Access Fund that persistently look out for the preservation of our climbing landscapes. I’ll be there with you, because the indigenous peoples, the land, water, and wildlife of the Bears Ears region deserve this monument designation. And … I want a second chance at sending Anunnaki in the Creek.

---

Taylor Luneau, American Alpine Club Member

Dual Masters Candidate, 2018: Master of Environmental Law and Policy, Vermont Law School and Master of Science in Natural Resources, University of Vermont

 


ENDNOTES

[1] Coggins, Wilkinson, Leshy, Fischman, Federal Public Land and Resources Law, p. 394, 7th Ed., Foundation Press, 2014.

[2] Id.

[3] 39 Op. Att’y Gen. 185, 187 (1938).

[4] Vincent, Carol Hardy, National Monuments and the Antiquities Act, Congressional Research Service, p. 2, 2017.

[5] Id.

[6] Antiquities Act 1906-2006, National Parks Service Archeology Program, https://www.nps.gov/archeology/sites/antiquities/MonumentsList.htm (Last updated Dec. 28, 2016).

[7] Id.

[8] Federal Land Policy Management Act of 1976, https://www.blm.gov/or/regulations/files/FLPMA.pdf

[9] U.S. Const. art. IV, §3, cl. 2.

Standing Up for Indian Creek

John Climaco Climbing in Southeast Utah in the 1980s.

By AAC member John Climaco

Canyonlands first captured me in the spring of 1984 as a skinny, 16-year-old Ohio boy. Years earlier I’d stumbled across a 1966 issue of National Geographic covering the first ascent of the Titan. Entranced by this wild adventure, I stole the only copy from our school library just to have it to myself. I devoured every story of the hard-living desert climbing pioneers I could, but nothing I’d read prepared me for the descent into Indian Creek and the desert of my dreams on my first time. No words could possibly capture the quiet, and the freedom.

In those days, you could have Indian Creek all to yourself on a spring weekend. The Anasazi art and the even more ancient sandstone towers were your silent and only companions. It was a place where you were free to create your own adventures and be the outlaw of your youthful imaginings. Looking back, it recently dawned on me that the very thing which seduced me about the desert may be precisely what imperils it. As the vast emptiness of the desert begets a feeling of endless freedom, it is easy to lapse into a comforting sense of the timelessness of the landscape. It is too easy to let that freedom lull us into assuming that what was here yesterday to be enjoyed today will still be there for us tomorrow.

The fact is that while we see these lands as our birthright, others see them as a vast piggy bank. Whether it was silver to fund a booming new nation, uranium to fuel the cold war or petroleum to fill our tanks, these lands have always held the promise of riches far more bankable than the ephemeral wealth we build there. Only a tiny portion of our public lands are entirely secured from those who wish to tap, mine or drill for personal profit. Would anyone seeking those rewards see our climbing community as a legitimate constituency to be respected and accounted for in use planning and public lands access? Maybe not a generation ago, but things are changing.

Like the echoes of pitons being driven into sandstone, the outlaw era of climbing is gone. Today, climbing is a mainstream sport. The power of our collective voice has grown and so has our capacity to give back to the lands that have given us so much. In speaking together, we have made a significant difference in communicating the value of these lands. The recent Bears Ears National Monument proclamation was the first ever presidential proclamation to list rock climbing as an acceptable and appropriate activity. We spoke up together and we were heard.

Unfortunately, efforts are already underway to dismantle Bears Ears National Monument. The Utah legislature recently passed a resolution, HCR 11, asking the Trump administration to rescind Bears Ears National Monument. Undoing the monument would be unprecedented and would put our other national treasures at risk.

A call to your congressman today will take less time than racking up for tomorrow’s adventures. Thousands of such calls, mainly by hunters and fishermen, recently led Representative Chaffetz (R – UT) to withdraw his disastrous bill which would have allowed a massive transfer of public lands into corporate ownership. If each of us made a single call to protect Indian Creek and the surrounding Bear’s Ears National Monument, could we secure it forever? I’d like to think so.

A few years ago, on yet another climbing and exploring trip from my home in Northern Utah, I saw a sight so incongruous with my sense of the desert landscape I had to stop the car and stare: a drilling rig tapping away yards from the entrance to Canyonlands National Park. I gawked at its gravel containment platform and wondered what law could ever permit this eyesore? Who will clean it up? Was anyone out there who cared enough to do something about it? 

Finally, it struck me: I was.

John Climaco today with his children

----------------------           

Here's How You Can Take Action:

It is imperative that we communicate our stance on public land policy to our elected representatives. Contact of your federal representatives by calling the Capitol Switchboard: (202) 224-3121 and ask to be connected.

Can’t remember who your representatives are? Look them up here:  

U.S. Senate: https://www.senate.gov/ 

House of Representatives: http://www.house.gov/representatives/

And if picking up the phone terrifies you, consider writing an Op-ed or Letter to the Editor. Not sure where to start? Check out this great resource from our partners at Outdoor Alliance.

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For some legal background on the future of Bears Ears, check out AAC Member Taylor Luneau's article Executive Power Over National Monuments

Sketchbooks & Diaries

Check out this selection of 19th century sketchbooks and diaries found in the AAC Library's Archives and in the Central Asia Library. See more photos on Flickr.

Sketches made in the Himaleh 1848 by Charles Horne. This sketchbook can be found in the Central Asia Library. Charles Horne (1823-1871) was employed in the Bengal Civil Service. He worked in the region, studied, and wrote articles on various aspects of the life of the people, which appeared in such publications such as the Journal of the Royal Asiatic Society. Most of the sketches were done in the region of Garhwal.  Sketches include scenery, shrines, rope bridges, local people, botany, birds, etc. Also artifacts such as prayer wheels.  It is a thorough documentation of life in the mountains at that time. 


Summer Tour in the Grisons and Italian Valleys of the Bernina, 1862

A souvenir from Mrs. Henry Freshfield's summer tour, most of the sketches found in this little book are by a Mrs. C. Galton. They were pasted into this book, which might be a draft version of Mrs. Freshfield's book of the same name. This item was collected for the AAC Library by Past President J. Monroe Thorington. To read the book, you can access it online here.


Sketches made on trip to Mt. St. Elias, June-Sept. 1888

Descended from William Williams, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, this Williams donated many items such as this sketchbook, a diary and a privately published book to the AAC Library. Read his In Memoriam in the 1947 AAJ here.


Henry George Newcombe Tibet Diary, 1869.

This is another treasure that can be found in the Central Asia Library. This is the journal of a 4-month shooting expedition into Tibet in 1869, undertaken by three young British army officers, Henry George Newcombe (1846-1895) and his companions, Tillotson and Evans. In addition to Newcombe's observations, are illustrations, consisting of 3 maps, 53 watercolors and many vignettes within the text.


Sketchbook of Pfarrer Friedrich Drechsel 1895

The sketches range in date from 1890-1909. It contains sketches of mountain and village scenes in turn of the century Bavaria. The book was donated by Karl Drechsel to J. Monroe Thorington (Drechsel's former pupil) in 1927. Thorington donated the sketchbook in 1949 to the AAC.


To see more of the sketchbooks and diaries,

take a look at our Flickr page.

Protect Bears Ears National Monument

Photo: Emma Longcope 

Southeast Utah is one of the most revered climbing destinations in the United States, and climbers have been strong and influential advocates for its protection. Our collective efforts paid off when on December 28, 2016, President Obama declared the region a national monument and listed climbing in the proclamation.

However, efforts are underway to dismantle the newly designated Bears Ears National Monument. In the upcoming weeks, newly appointed Secretary of the Interior Ryan Zinke (former Montana Congressman) will set his priorities for public lands. He will be in a position to influence President Trump's decision on whether or not to rescind Bears Ears National Monument.

Please help us speak up for Bears Ears! We need as many climbers as possible to urge Zinke to protect the national monument. The easy letter writing tool has content you can use and as always, we love when you add your own voice from a climber's perspective.

TOGETHER WE'RE STRONGER.
 

We joined our partners at Access Fund, Outdoor Alliance, Outdoor Industry Association, Friends of Indian Creek, and Salt Lake Climbers Alliance to ask Secretary-designee Ryan Zinke to protect Bears Ears National Monument and the Antiquities Act as a tool to protect public lands.

Read our letter below: