Veterans Day 2021: The Power of the Outdoors

You may remember AAC Volunteer Lieutenant Colonel Byron Harvison, who was a part of the first AAC Hill to Crag in 2018, bringing veterans into conversations with policy makers to advocate for public lands and conservation. This Veteran’s Day, we checked in with Lieutenant Colonel Harvison, and found that he’s thriving. Alongside his friends, fellow veterans and outdoor enthusiasts, Josh Jespersen, Dustin Kinsling, and Benjamin Davis, Byron has been using the connections he made during the 2018 Hill to Crag to create even more opportunity for veterans to utilize the outdoors as a resource for healing, focus, and new purpose. Jespersen, Kinsling, and Davis founded Veterans Outdoor Advocacy Group (VOAG) in 2019, and they are already making change happen, with even more exciting new initiatives coming down the line. 

Byron Harvison is still on active duty, assigned to State Judge Advocate for the Utah National Guard. He is a lifetime climber, skier, and biker, as well as a dad. He has been deployed multiple times in Afghanistan and Kuwait and has been a long time AAC volunteer, including holding the position of Chair for the AAC Salt Lake Chapter. 

Josh Jespersen grew up in PA as a total ski bum, but at 18 joined the military and served 6 years as a Navy SEAL in Iraq and Afghanistan. On returning home, he moved to CO and threw himself into backcountry skiing and splitboarding. He began to explore the mountains in a way he never had before. Josh started working for nonprofits that were getting veterans outside, and along the way realized that the veterans around him needed to see other veterans carving out new pathways for themselves. Josh felt called to prove that you can go out and do amazing things with your life post-service, that military service doesn’t have to be the last chapter—there are new chapters to write. He decided to push the envelope and set out to ski all of Colorado's 14ers as fast as he could, and Josh ended up setting a record, beating the old record of 361 days, by doing it in 138 days. Besides skiing all of CO 14ers in a single ski season, Josh is currently a mountain guide and avalanche educator. 

As outdoor lovers and athletes, both Byron and Josh, alongside Dustin Kingsling and Benjamin Davis, realized the importance of creating space and opportunity for veterans to utilize outdoor therapy as a resource. Veterans Outdoor Advocacy Group (VOAG) began as a lobbying organization to make that opportunity possible. In 2019, the Accelerated Recovery Veterans Outdoors Act caught Josh’s eye, and he began tracking it, but noticed that it wasn’t gaining any momentum. The bill basically mandated that the Veterans Administration (VA) study the efficacy of adjunct outdoor therapy. In effect, the outcome of this bill would mean that veterans down the line could be prescribed time outside instead of overwhelmingly relying on prescription medication to treat PTSD, drug addiction, or other challenges that many veterans face. For Josh and the others, they couldn’t be happy with looking back in 10 years and not being able to say they had done everything in their power to get this bill passed, because they each personally knew the impact and importance of the outdoors for their own wellbeing. This was a weak point in the VA that this bill could remedy. VOAG was created; and with laser focus, the team lobbied and wrote emails to representatives relentlessly, until the bill was ultimately passed in 2020.  

In 2020, VOAG also created an initiative to train veterans as hunting and fishing guides. Josh and Byron note that outdoor guiding can be a huge source of employment—beyond the value of therapy that VOAG already advocates—for vets as they transition from the military. Moving forward, VOAG is excited to advocate for greater access to AMGA training for veterans, alongside many other initiatives and issues.

This Veterans Day, VOAG is also launching a new program called “31 FOR 31.” 

The 31 FOR 31 project is meant to remember the men who died aboard a CH-47 helicopter on August 6, 2011, call sign “Extortion 17.” Thirty-one Americans and 7 Afghan Nationals were killed when the vessel was shot down in Maidan Wardak Province of Afghanistan. The tragedy resulted in the greatest individual loss of life for the US Forces during the war in Afghanistan. Over the course of 31 weeks, between 1 January, 2022 and August 6, 2022, VOAG and its coalition partners, will take 31 Veterans into the outdoors in various capacities from climbing, hiking, skiing, mountain biking, hunting, and fishing. All of these trips will focus on remembering one of the 31 Americans along with the 7 Afghans who were killed more than 10 years ago in the Hindu Kush Mountains.

For Byron, not only should the outdoors and outdoor therapy be a ready resource for veterans, but veterans are an untapped resource as stewards of the land. As someone who has always felt a calling to serve, Byron has manifested that in his military service, but also in his commitment to the outdoors and his responsibility to the places he plays in. The AAC is so grateful to have volunteers like him who are taking their commitment to climbing and its community-building potential into other spaces, widening the power and accessibility of climbing. And in the spirit of VOAG’s mission, the AAC offers a special discounted military membership for active duty, reserves, and veterans. Learn more here!

If you’d like to learn more about VOAG, check out their website here. Learn more about their new initiative “31 FOR 31” here. And check out this film, featuring Josh Jespersen, to dive deeper into what the outdoors can do for veterans.

The Prescription - November 2021

The Prescription - November 2021

PETE TAKEDA TO EDIT ACCIDENTS BOOK

The American Alpine Club (AAC) is excited to announce Pete Takeda as the new editor of Accidents in North American Climbing. Pete is a longtime climber and expert in all forms of the sport, from single-pitch routes to big walls to mountain climbs around the world. Based in Colorado, Pete has worked as a writer and filmmaker (with a focus on climbing) for much of his life. He also has been a volunteer and Board Director for the AAC, the American Mountain Guides Association, and other organizations. After seven years at the helm of Accidents, AAC executive editor Dougald MacDonald is stepping aside to put more time into the American Alpine Journal and the AAC’s publications website.

Pete already has begun the transition into his role, starting work on the 2022 edition of Accidents. We asked him to share a few thoughts about the publication and his new job.

Q. When did you first start reading Accidents in North American Climbing?

Pete: I started reading Accidents in the mid-1980s. I had just started with serious climbing and found the accident accounts cautionary, insightful, and morbidly fascinating.

Q. What attracted you to the possibility of editing the publication? 

Pete: In 2019, I interviewed Jed Williamson as part of a video project for the AAC. Jed was editor of Accidents in North American Mountaineering (changed in 2016 to its current and more accurate title) for 40 years. He spoke about the publication’s history and provided insights into how accidents have followed trends within our sport. He also had a fascinating analysis of the commonalities of most climbing accidents.    

When the job posting came up, I got excited. Not only was it a chance to become more connected with the AAC, but also it dovetailed with my current book project, and the Accidents editor position is essentially a part-time job, one that gives me time to write—and climb.

Q. One of the things that came across in your interviews—and in your writing—is that you seem like an eager student of climbing, even after so many years in the sport. Do you still feel like you have a lot to learn? 

Pete: I love climbing. I’ve given my life to it. Its disciplines are myriad, and one can never master them all. Each style informs the other. To thrive—and in some cases merely survive—one needs to continually learn. While climbing is unified by an elemental struggle against gravity, each game within climbing has its own physical and mental demands, and a distinct set of rewards. In an age of specialization, climbing offers the practitioner many chances to be a beginner again. When one takes on a different game within the sport, one is reminded of why they fell in love with it in the first place. To me, being a student of climbing for almost 40 years is the greatest gift I can imagine.

Q. We searched the archives, and you haven’t ever appeared in Accidents. But have you ever had a climbing accident yourself—or witnessed one—and how do you think this experience might affect your work as editor?

Pete: I’ve had my share of hospital visits, participated in rescues, self-rescued, and witnessed a dozen serious accidents—some with tragic results. I myself have almost been killed a half dozen times—avalanche, rockfall, exposure, and a few really bad falls. I’ve broken bones, lost teeth, starved, been parched, had AMS, gone snow blind, cut finger tendons, suffered superficial frostbite, and have had three major surgeries. Through all this, I’ve managed to self-rescue, or at least drive myself to the hospital.  

“Big Wall Pete” on the cover of a 1993 issue of Climbing.

I’ve also trained as an EMT, so I have a basic understanding of first-line medicine. My body has fortunately survived my youthful (and middle aged) ego. I’ve gained a healthy respect for climbing hazards, and I do not hesitate to ask partners and professionals for advice and training on best practices. My experiences will hopefully provide a sound understanding of accident mechanisms across all the disciplines of climbing. Having suffered loss and injury, those same experiences should also provide a sense of compassion. 

Q. As a longtime reader, you’ve seen some changes in the book. Do you have thoughts on how it might continue to evolve under your leadership?  

Pete: I have a few ideas, but I’ll need to get up to speed and learn the job. One thing to note is that Accidents in North American Climbing represents more than 60 years of accident data and anecdotal descriptions. These are invaluable and should be put to more use. I feel that trends within climbing can be tracked and analyses made. Perhaps stronger partnerships with educational and commercial entities can create and inform existing curricula. We’re reaching the point where, with the explosion of popularity in climbing, organizations could really begin to use this information.  

Q. People start climbing in such different ways than they did when you started a few decades ago. How can Accidents reach more modern climbers and help to educate them?

Pete: More than any other development, the indoor gym has revolutionized climbing. Most climbers today start climbing in gyms. Some can climb incredibly hard yet lack the very basics we once took as a given. Before 1995 or so, most climbers cut their teeth outside. We learned to use hardware and how to stay safe—or suffered the consequences. My hope is that Accidents might emphasize not only the bad things that happen, but also provide ongoing analyses, inform curricula, and work in partnership with groups like the American Mountain Guides Association, the Climbing Wall Association, outdoor companies, and so on to help educate new climbers.

Pete can be reached at [email protected].

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SHARP END PODCAST: HAZARDS OF INFORMAL INSTRUCTION

Nick Tollison had been climbing for about three years before he headed to Clark Canyon, outside of Mammoth, California, with a friend and a more experienced acquaintance who had offered to mentor them in multi-pitch climbing. After warming up on some single-pitch climbs, the trio decided to break a long 5.8 pitch into two leads, with a midway hanging belay. During the descent, confusion at the midway anchor led to a potentially fatal fall. Learn more about this accident and the aftermath in Episode 70 of the Sharp End podcast.

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ROCKY TALKIE SEARCH & RESCUE AWARD

REMINDER: Applications are being taken for the Rocky Talkie Search & Rescue Award, which will distribute a total of $25,000 to four nonprofit teams from the U.S. or Canada that were involved in a 2021 incident demonstrating their skill, passion, and dedication. Finalists will be chosen by a committee of Rocky Talkie, AAC, and SAR professionals, and the climbing community will vote on the ranking of the final stories. If you’re involved with a deserving Search and Rescue team—or if you were rescued in 2021—please consider sharing your story. Learn more and apply for the Rocky Talkie Search & Rescue Award here!

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The monthly Prescription newsletter is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club. Questions? Suggestions? Write to us at [email protected].

2021 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Recipients

As we look ahead to the future of climbing and the availability of outdoor recreation opportunities for all, the American Alpine Club’s (AAC) Cornerstone Conservation Grant represents our commitment to supporting local climbing communities in their conservation and restoration initiatives.

More individuals, families, and groups are spending time in climbing areas and landscapes, causing added environmental stress and degradations to these places. We look to local climbing communities to identify areas in need of conservation, restoration, and educational resources for visitors.

The AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant, powered by REI, formally launched in 2011 with the goal of funding projects to improve, conserve, and protect local climbing resources across the country. Since that first year, we have awarded over $250,000 to local climbing organizations (LCOs), land managers and agencies, nonprofits, and individuals for projects as varied as building or improving trail networks to climbing areas; establishing new toilet facilities and signage at trailheads; and deploying a variety of community groups for clean-up and graffiti removal at local crags.

2021 Winners:

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance - Jacobs Ladder Reroute to Lone Peak Cirque

$2,000

The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance, with support from the Salt Lake and Pleasant Grove Ranger Districts, are proposing a reroute on a steep section of unsustainable trail to Lone Peak Cirque known as Jacob’s Ladder. This multi-use trail is perhaps the worst in the Wasatch with erosion up to six feet deep!

Boulder Climbing Community - Avalon Climbing Area Access Trail Project Phase II

$5,000

BCC will reroute the main approach trail accessed by crossing Boulder Creek. The current approach trail quickly leads up a dirt slope that is continually eroding due to user traffic and environmental impact such as water runoff. BCC will realign this approach trail, building a sustainable and durable path within the talus field, ensuring that continued user traffic no longer erodes the vegetated hillside.

Mohonk Preserve, Inc. - Promoting Low Impact Climbing

$3,000

Mohonk Preserve’s increase in climbing activity in recent years have necessitated extra steps for the preservation of climbing areas to avoid environmental damage and climbing accidents. This grant will fund an educational information campaign based on Low-Impact Climbing and Leave No Trace principles to ensure that climbers have the skills to engage with the environment mindfully. 

Carolina Climbers Coalition - Bald Mountain Creek Preserve Bouldering

$3,000

In 2020, the Carolina Climbers Coalition began working with Southeastern Trust for Parks and Land (STPAL) to develop a strategy for publicly permissible bouldering access on their 750 acre preserve called the Bald Mountain Creek Preserve. Located near Burnsville, NC, the Preserve contains 45+ boulders with approximately 250 problems. The Preserve has three boulder fields; McKinney Gap, Weaver Knob, and Buckhouse. With funds from this grant, we hope to build a parking lot that will open the Weaver Knob and the Buckhouse Boulders, and we hope to aid our C4 Trail Team with funding. Currently, Weaver Knob and Buckhouse Boulders do not have any parking and can not be opened to climbing without parking and trail infrastructure.  

Durango Climbers Coalition - Animas City Mountain restoration initiative

$5,000

The funds requested will be used to help La Plata County install two trailhead signs, and three wayfinding signs as well as match a potential grant request from the Access Fund for the development of a tool cache which will allow the DCC to complete necessary trail improvements at X-Rock and other climbing areas near Durango.

Southeastern Climbers Coalition - Education Signage Updates at SCC-owned Properties

$2,000

SCC owns and manages 8 climbing areas across Tennessee, Alabama and Georgia. The climbing community continues to grow and more climbers are visiting our properties for the first time, therefore the need for clear signage and accurate property maps is vital to the long-term sustainability of our climbing resources. Using the results from our 2020 resource inventory project, we have identified the need for boundary and trail markers, access road signage and kiosk updates relative to each location. We are partnering with University of Tennessee's IGT lab to create new property maps at several of our climbing areas. SCC is seeking funding to hire a graphic designer to help with design updates as well as to cover the cost of sign printing and installation.

CRAG-VT (Climbing Resource Access Group - Vermont) - CRAG-VT Stewardship Cache Project

$2,500

CRAG-VT is seeking funding to support the procurement of stewardship supplies to match our greatly increased level of volunteer activity. Grant money will be used for purchase of tools, a shed, and stewardship day event materials.

Washington Climbers Coalition - Washington Climbers Conservation Initiative

$2,500

A beginner crag close to a major metro area has seen heavy impacted over the last 4 years. This multi-year project plans to address this by performing trail reroutes, closing none sustainable trails, and installing steps upper steeper portions of the area.

Together We Expand: A Story from the McNeill-Nott Grant

Jewell Lund and Chantel Astorga are known for their impressive ascent of the Denali Diamond (7,800’, WI5+ 5.9 A3 or M6 A1/ M7) on the southwest face of Denali in 2015. According to the AAJ, this was the seventh reported ascent of the route and the first time it had been climbed by an all-female team.

A look into the vault of AAC-grant-funded trip reports reveals that Jewell and Chantel’s partnership was truly cemented in 2014, a year prior to the Denali Diamond, thanks to the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Award and their ascent of Polarchrome (5.7 A1) on Mt. Huntington in the Alaska Range.

This is the story of their Polarchrome adventure.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

Reflections on the Bears Ears Restoration

A week ago today, the Biden-Harris Administration made the profoundly important decision to honor the voices of Indigenous communities, climbers, and conservationists by restoring protections to three national monuments including Bears Ears, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and the Northeast Canyons and Seamounts National Monuments. The American Alpine Club is thrilled about this action and grateful to our partners who led the charge to protect these important landscapes. We are particularly proud of our friends at the Access Fund, who on behalf of climbers, joined a lawsuit protesting the illegal reduction of Bears Ears and have feverishly lobbied Congress to restore protections to this important landscape. We are also grateful to the Bears-Ears Intertribal Coalition, who have invested innumerable hours of effort defending traditional values, ensuring that Indigenous knowledge is incorporated into future management decisions and ultimately protecting a sacred site significant to many Tribes such as the Navajo Nation, Ute Mountain Ute Tribe, Hopi Tribe, Pueblo of Zuni, and Ute Tribe.

We join our partners today to celebrate their hard work and commend the administration’s commitment to conserving this unique ecological and cultural heritage.

As the first national monument designated at the request of the Tribes, this action is truly about honoring First Nations who have called this landscape home for time immemorial. “This monument designation, under the first Indigenous Secretary of Interior, signals the role that Tribes will play in the future management of federal public lands,” said AAC Board member and founder of Natives Outdoors Len Necefer. “It’s imperative that the climbing community take steps to build a productive relationship with Tribes to ensure that the collaboration between these communities that occurred on Bears Ears becomes the norm.”

PC: Taylor Luneau

Reflecting on his experience witnessing President Biden sign the Presidential Proclamation, Chris Winters, Executive Director of the Access Fund said, “We are absolutely elated that President Biden stood up to protect Bears Ears National Monument and conserve this national treasure. This is a huge win for Indigenous people in the greater fight for America’s public lands. This proclamation not only protects climbing and the vast cultural and scientific resources at Bears Ears, but it also helps to uphold the integrity of the Antiquities Act and protects all national monuments around the country. It also recognizes the importance of outdoor recreation in these places.”

Like so many of you, the staff here at the AAC share a deep connection to Indian Creek and the desert landscape of Southeastern Utah. Previously, our current Policy Manager - then graduate student - penned an article highlighting the illegal use of presidential authority to rescind protections for 85% of the original monument designation at Bears Ears. “It is truly a historic achievement for Tribes and climbers alike” said AAC Policy Manager, Taylor Luneau, in light of the restoration. “Not only are the vast climbing resources of Bears Ears once again protected, but the action contributes to broader conservation goals laid out in the America the Beautiful plan, which strives to conserve 30 percent of our land and water by 2030—an effort that is crucial to combatting the climate crisis and ensuring close to home nature for all Americans.” 

Much like completing a new route, a milestone of this nature is never reached alone. “This success points to the importance of civic engagement, partnerships, and the value of advocating for our shared landscapes,”  emphasized AAC CEO Mitsu Iwasaki. “Thousands of people activated to write letters and call their elected officials, to attend protests and rallies, and to document and share their unique experiences in places like Indian Creek. Now we see the true impact our collective actions can have.” 

PC: Taylor Luneau

“The Biden administration’s recently restored protections for one of America’s most iconic, wild, adventurous, antiquities rich, awe inspiring, and home to Indian Creek, ecosystems - Bears Ears, should be a day of celebration, relief, joy and vigilance,” said AAC Board member Peter Metcalf. “With time, Bears Ears will become as famous and cherished as Yellowstone or Bryce Canyon National parks. We at the AAC should be both most appreciative and proud. Though we have substantial reasons to be appreciative of the administration's brave restoration and proud of our work, we must all now be aware that without committed, focused vigilance, it could be lost again to the banal financial benefit of a few.” 

The AAC remains committed to advocating for the protection and stewardship of Bears Ears and all of our public lands. As a community of climbers, we must continue to steward this important landscape, educate ourselves on low impact recreation and maintain our vigilance during future management decisions for the world class rock climbing of Indian Creek and beyond. Importantly, we must continue to support Tribal leaders and center the voices of Indigenous communities who call this place home.

All the Sweeter: A Story from the Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant

A misty morning bike ride to camp. The remains of an earlier avalanche to keep you on your toes. The whisper of a rogue bear roaming the Park...

Backcountry snowboarding in Glacier National Park never felt so good.

In 2018, amateur splitboarders Jaimie Vincent and team members Kaitlyn, Bryant, and Amanda were able to tour Glacier National Park (GNP) via bike and splitboard, thanks to the Jones Live Like Liz Award. Explore epic images and a thoughtful retelling of their adventure below.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

Whiskey-Fueled Hopes: A Story from the TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant

Our adventure partners are our life-savers, our hype-men, our drinking partners, our mentors and educators. We share rain-soaked tents with them, laugh with them, and trade epic stories with them. Our partners in adventure make it all happen.

Thanks to the Partner in Adventure Grant, sponsored by TINCUP Mountain Whiskey, Jamie and Sam made the adventure happen. The two joined forces to take a ski mountaineering course on Mt. Baker, and though there was plenty of learning happening, shenanigans also ensued.

Explore the exhibit below to experience the shenanigans for yourself!

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

The First Ascent of Link Sar: A Story from the Cutting Edge Grant

Photo by AAC Board Member Graham Zimmerman

Link Sar is a 7,041-meter peak in the Kondus Valley of the Pakistan Karakoram, rising above the Kaberi Glacier. By the time Steve Swenson's team arrived in June 2019, at least eight previous expeditions had failed in attempts to make the first ascent of this peak. Finally, in 2019, the dream team of Steve Swenson, Mark Richey, Chris Wright, and Graham Zimmerman made the first ascent of Link Sar, partially funded by the Cutting Edge Grant.

Explore the exhibit below for a first-hand account and breathtaking pictures of the ascent.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

Hill to (the Original!) Crag: Advocacy at Smith Rock

On Saturday October 2, an array of land managers, local and state politicians, and Oregon business leaders joined climbing advocates for a day of recreation at Smith Rock State Park. The focus of the event was centered around the future of climbing in the Park, and how climbing positively impacts the economy and vitality of Central Oregon’s surrounding communities. This installment of the American Alpine Club’s Hill to Crag Initiative, presented in collaboration with Edelrid North America, has once again used the comradery and intimacy of a day at the crag to forage connections and honest communication with local and state politicians and land managers.  

The AAC’s policy team is committed to illuminating how federal legislation impacts climbers, and our most recent edition of the Summit Register Policy Zine dives deep into initiatives like 30x30 and Protecting America’s Wilderness + Act (PAW+), outlining how these policies can support climate action and conservation efforts that climbers care about across the United States. But the AAC is also well aware of the power of local communities, and how partnerships between climbers and local leaders can pave the way for lasting change. 

At this Hill to Crag event, Matt Davey, the Superintendent of Smith Rock State Park, spent the day alongside Oregon decision makers and climbing advocates, speaking about the challenges the Park currently faces and how we can all come together to work towards a sustainable future for Smith Rock. Due to the robust history of climbing at the Park, climbers had a large impact on the modern day stewardship of this landscape. He informed the group that many of the original trails in the Park were built and maintained by climbers. To this day, that has not changed, as organizations like the Smith Rock Group and High Desert Climbers Alliance take the lead on grassroots efforts to maintain and steward the Park. When asked what climbers can do to positively impact Smith Rock State Park, Davey noted that “the best thing climbers can do is get involved with one of the nonprofits like Smith Rock Group, or their local climbing organization the High Desert Climbers Alliance. Then together as a team they can come together and make the biggest impact.” 

After learning about the history of the Park and the challenges that exist with its maintenance, local leaders and decision makers were invited to try climbing. It was a very special experience to have professional climber and Edelrid Athlete Tommy Caldwell on belay as Bend County Commissioner Phil Chang and CEO of Economic Development of Central Oregon Roger Lee made their way up routes at the Monument Crag. 

Deschutes County Commissioner, Phil Chang

PC: @ofallnationsmedia

Deschutes County Commissioner, Phil Chang

PC: @ofallnationsmedia

Bend resident, renowned alpinist, and AAC board member Graham Zimmerman summed it up best as he witnessed one of his own County Commissioners climbing: “When I see the crew of folks we are hanging out with today I see progress taking place.” Zimmerman has made almost as many trips to DC to lobby in support of climate action and public lands protections as he has into the Karakoram over the years. 

“We’ve talked a lot about common ground and that’s pretty hard to do over a mahogany desk in D.C. whereas here, we are on the common ground. We are here enjoying this space together making experiences and memories. These are the foundations we can create policy change on and talk about initiatives we’re interested in, and create that diverse and equitable world we all want to live in,” Zimmerman said.

Roger Lee, CEO of Central Oregon Economic Development

@ofallnationsmedia

Roger Lee, CEO of Central Oregon Economic Development

PC: @ofallnationsmedia

The day wrapped up at a climber owned and operated restaurant in Terrebonne called The Depot. Jamie and Evan, the owners of The Depot, moved to Central Oregon from the east coast after falling in love with the outdoor access provided by the region, specifically, the access to Smith Rock. According to the US Bureau of Economic Analysis, climbing contributed $5.8 million in gross output in 2019, contributing to the outdoor recreation economy’s total value of  2.1 percent ($459.8 billion) of current-dollar gross domestic product (GDP) for the nation in 2019. Showcasing local businesses that exist due to the access to climbing at Smith Rock felt like a special way to demonstrate the impact that climbers have on local economies too.

Due to the new connections and excitement of the day outside at Smith Rock, it was hard to corral the participants to their seats for the final presentations capping off the day. However, once seated, folks were captivated. Alan Watts, a local climbing legend and original developer of Smith Rock State Park shared the riveting history of how climbing in the region has changed over the years. Roger Lee dove into the economic impacts that outdoor recreation has on Central Oregon, and the exciting new businesses that have moved to the region based purely on the access to the outdoors that this corner of Oregon offers its residents. 

Smith Rock Superintendent Matt Davey gives a presentation as Tommy Caldwell listens

PC: @ofallnationsmedia

Tommy Caldwell on Belay

PC: Sam Masters

Tommy Caldwell gives beta toRoger Lee, CEO of Central Oregon Economic Development

PC: Sam Masters

Lizzy Van Patten shared an inspiring presentation about the importance of shifting the narrative of “who climbers are” through increasing accessibility and inclusivity of the sport. Sharing her own story and that of her guiding business She Moves Mountains, based in Central Oregon, she concluded her presentation with a direct ask of our federal legislators: Help make permitting more accessible (and ultimately more inclusive) through the passage of bills like the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR) Act and the Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR) Act.  

“I think that ‘safe’ is not only something that means not hitting the deck. It also means creating safe spaces in which a diverse group of people can participate in our sport. Our systems are dialed for climbing. We know how to belay, how to place good gear, and how to bolt safely. So what we’re working on now is creating that safe space for a broad diverse community.” -Graham Zimmerman 

Thanks to the collaboration of these climbing advocates and local leaders, this Hill to Crag event highlighted that climbers are stewards of Smith Rock and many other climbing destinations; that the growing climbing and outdoor industry is an economic driver for many communities; and due to these factors and more, funding for public lands should be prioritized on the local, state, and federal level. After all, nearly 60% of climbing areas are located on public lands (AF Vertical Times).

““AAC’s Hill to Crag was a great community event on a perfect fall day in Smith Rock State Park. I appreciated getting to connect with local business leaders and climbing legends, and through conversation it was clear just how passionate folks are not only about their sport but also the power of outdoor recreation as a positive force for conservation and the local economy.””

— Cailin O’Brian Feeney, the Director of the Oregon Office of Outdoor Recreation

““As an elected official it was great to join the American Alpine Club and their network for this event to discuss outdoor recreation in my community – the fun and spiritual renewal it brings to us, the contribution it makes to the local economy, and the ways that local governments can support it. Many actionable ideas to steward the environment, enhance recreational amenities, and support my constituents came out of the day and I look forward to diving into that work.””

— Deschutes County Commissioner, Phil Chang

If you are interested in learning more about federal legislation that directly impacts our climbing community, check out the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR Act), Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR), and Environmental Justice in Recreational Permitting Act.

Big thank you to Edelrid North America and the Oregon leaders and changemakers who came out to spend the day with us:

• Cailin O’Brien Feeney, Director of the Oregon Office of Outdoor Recreation

• Matt Davey, Superintendent of Smith Rock State Park

• Phil Chang, Deschutes County Commission

• Roger Lee, CEO of Central Oregon Economic Development

• George Endicott, Redmond Mayor

• Krisanna Endicott-Clark, Redmond City Councilor

• Priscilla Macy, Executive Director of Oregon Outfitters and Guides 

• Adam Baylor, Public Information Officer for Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife 

• Graham Zimmerman, Bend based climber, alpinist, and AAC Board Member

• Lizzy Van Patten, Founder of She Moves Mountains

• Alan Watts, Smith Rock Climbing Developer and Historian

• Alan Collins, Smith Rock Climbing Developer

• Rachel Greenwald-Rhoads and Maitreya Sriram of the High Desert Climbers Alliance 

• Climbers’ Advocacy Network Volunteers: Alma Baste, Sam Masters, Greg Parker and Daniel Kroth

The Fine Line of Insanity: Stories from the Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant

Mountaineering, like most disciplines of climbing, turns out to be a lot more about failing than success. The Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant offers opportunities for young mountaineers to cut their teeth on the extraordinary and bold limits of alpinism. But before the cutting edge can be tested, mountaineers have to come to terms with the immense amount of respect, strategy, grit, suffering, and failure that is central to this discipline. In 2013, Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant (MFFG) winners Zach Clanton, adventuring in the Alaska Range, and Amy Ness and Myles Moser, adventuring in Patagonia, each respectively took a long look at the “fine line of insanity” that is the flip side of the coin of adventure alpinism. On one side of the coin is the glory of exquisite rock, ice, and a clear summit. The other side is mortal danger. The cutting edge requires riding this fine line of insanity, and doing so with eyes wide open.

Explore the exhibit below to experience the fine line alongside Zach, Amy, and Myles.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

Ripple Effects: A Story from the TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant

Thanks to the TINCUP Partner in Adventure Grant, leadership at Chicago Adventure Therapy are making waves to increase equitable access to outdoor climbing. By putting safe rock climbing knowledge in the hands of an organization that is already getting Chicago youth outside, a simple anchor building class can have huge ripple effects that shape the future of our climbing community.

Explore this exhibit to see how the magic happened.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

The Prescription - October 2021

Cleaning The Fury, the route highlighted in this incident. In order to prevent her swing from pulling the belayer of her feet, this climber has clipped in direct to her lowest draw and then unclipped the belayer’s side of the rope. Once the belayer takes up slack, the climber can clean the draw without causing the belayer to swing. Photo by Johnny Nowell

The Prescription - October 2021

Kentucky, Red River Gorge

Cleaning Error – Belayer Dragged By Climber

My partner (49) and I (33) are very experienced climbers. I had climbed at the Red River Gorge several times, and though it was my partner’s first time here, he has climbed and belayed plenty of steep routes. My background is multi-pitch trad, and his is all sport. We are about the same weight.

On September 8, my partner led The Fury (5.11c sport) at Bibliothek in the Muir Valley. I was tired and didn’t feel like climbing the route, so we decided he would clean it while lowering off. He was clipped into the belayer’s side of the rope with a quickdraw (a.k.a. tramming), as is standard practice when cleaning overhanging routes. At the last quickdraw he said, “You’re going to swing,” so I weighted the rope as much as I could before he cleaned the lowest draw.

I was prepared to swing a few feet, but when he removed the last draw from the route, he was still clipped into my side of the rope. This caused both of us to swing about 20 feet backward. I slammed into a small boulder lying on the ground and then hit a tree. I made contact with one leg just above the ankle, and I think I hit my foot, too. It all hurt right away. I was able to stand and walk slowly, so we hiked out.

I could barely walk for two weeks, and it took months before I was back to climbing. It was not fractured, but likely a severe bone bruise and tendonitis. (Source: Amanda Friedman.)

ANALYSIS

Cleaning the last draw while lowering from an overhanging route is always potentially hazardous, as the climber generally will swing out from the wall. To avoid pulling the belayer into a swing as well, the cleaning climber should completely disconnect from the belayer’s side of the rope before letting go from the wall. The belayer can then brace for the swing before the climber unclips the lowest bolt.

Another option is to leave the first draw on the route while cleaning and then remove it from the ground with a stick clip. (There are video tutorials online for how to do this with most types of stick clips. Here’s a demonstration of quickdraw removal with the popular Betastick Evo.) Muir Valley even has a few stick clips available for climbers to borrow, located underneath the awning by the parking lot. (Source: The Editors.)

This report appears in the 2021 edition of ANAC, where you’ll also find a Know the Ropes feature article describing the ins and outs of cleaning steep routes. ANAC 2019 described a similar cleaning incident in Big Cottonwood Canyon, Utah. Read it here.

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THE ROCKY TALKIE SEARCH AND RESCUE AWARD

Photo of YOSAR in action by Drew Smith

The AAC has partnered with Rocky Talkie, makers of climber-friendly two-way radios, to highlight search and rescue teams engaged in outstanding missions during 2021. The Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award will distribute a total of $25,000 to four nonprofit teams from the U.S. or Canada whose stories from 2021 demonstrate their skill, passion, and dedication. Either SAR teams or rescued individuals can apply; applications are due by January 31, 2022.

The four finalists will be chosen by a committee of Rocky Talkie, AAC, and SAR professionals, and the climbing community will then vote on the ranking of the final stories. The top vote-getting team will earn $10,000 to support their operations! The finalist’s rescue stories will be described in the 2022 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing.

Nonprofit search and rescue organizations perform many of the rescues covered each year in ANAC, and we are happy to help highlight their stories and raise some money to support their vital missions.

Learn more and apply for the Rocky Talkie Search and Rescue Award here!

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BACKCOUNTRY SKI REPAIR: A QUICK REVIEW

Ski touring and winter mountaineering season is right around the corner, so now is a good time to review your repair kit for extended backcountry outings. The sub-three-minute video shown here, featuring IFMGA guide Joey Thompson, offers a quick review of the repair gear he carries and some basic ways to use it. For a deeper dive into the topic, check out this online video and article from ski guide and avalanche forecaster Matt Schonwald. Matt wrote the featured Know the Ropes article about spring and summer avalanches in ANAC 2020. If you missed it, you can read it here.

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TWO ROPES CUT YET THE LEADER SURVIVES

The brand-new Sharp End podcast features a terrifying fall on a long route in El Potrero Chico, Mexico. Rockfall on the ninth pitch of a 5.11 bolted route cut both of the leader’s ropes, leading to a very long fall that fortunately ended on a ledge. The climber, Foster Denney, wrote about this incident in ANAC 2019, and now he has spoken about the fall and his rescue with Sharp End hostess Ashley Saupe.

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The monthly Prescription newsletter is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club. Questions? Suggestions? Write to us at [email protected].

A Big Opportunity to Invest in Climate Action + Public Lands!

AAC is Excited about the Reconciliation+Infrastructure Package: Here is Why

Over the past several months, Congress has been making big moves in order to address the climate crisis through both the infrastructure package and the budget reconciliation process. This is a once-in-a-generation opportunity for our Representatives to allocate serious funding to address the climate crisis and protect public lands. 

There is room within these processes to invest in public lands, take bold action on climate, reform outdated oil and gas leasing processes, and create new pathways for Americans to be employed on public lands. In order to ensure we hold our Lawmakers accountable, we must demand that our elected officials go big on climate. 

Why must we use the budget reconciliation process to go big on climate?

The Senate can pass reconciliation bills with a simple majority vote rather than a filibuster-proof vote. This means that the bill could pass on the grounds of a one-vote majority rather than needing a 3/5ths majority vote which equates to a 60 vote minimum. Given the current 50-50 Democrat-Republican split in the Senate, the budget reconciliation process could allow for an easier path to a whole-of-government approach to taking bold action on climate.

Where are we in the process?

Legislative priorities of the committees who are engaged in the reconciliation process were due to the Senate on September 15. Once all of the individual pieces of legislation are consolidated, the Senate will then vote on the entire package, as will the House. If at that point the House and Senate adopt different reconciliation bills, they must then come together in a conference committee (a committee composed of select senators and house members) to work out the differences between the two. 

Once the budget reconciliation bill is passed by both chambers, the House will then need to vote on the infrastructure package. If the House decides to make changes to the bill, which is likely to happen, the two chambers will once again need to reconcile the differences in committee. Due to these factors, it is hard to predict when the process will reach completion. This is why it is more important than ever to share your thoughts on this process with your Lawmakers.

Amendments AAC is Advocating For:

There are many different things that you as a constituent can advocate to your Representatives for in this process. We have outlined several of the amendments we are most excited about below. At the end of this blog, there is an action alert you can utilize to write your Lawmakers. While sending an email to encourage bold action on climate is great, it is even more powerful to include the things you care about most in the text. Please copy + paste various bullet points that stand out to you as important in the points below. 

1. Support the Civilian Climate Corps (CCC): 

   1. The CCC would be an investment in both people and public lands and is a critical piece of the climate change mitigation puzzle. We must prioritize climate action on public lands as we rebuild our economy. Congress should use budget reconciliation to fund the CCC to work to restore critical ecosystems, address deferred maintenance needs, and advance energy retrofitting on public lands. The CCC has the opportunity to support rural and frontline communities through improving public lands access, mitigating climate risks, and creating new jobs. 

   2. In order for the CCC to reach its full potential, there must be a federal public lands funding component. Congress needs to provide funding to the land management agencies that are explicitly dedicated to the implementation of the CCC projects. If there is no dedicated funding for individual projects, there may not be the budget required to see public lands projects to fruition. We are urging Congress and the House Natural Resources Committee to add a specific budgetary line item to fund these projects in order for the CCC to have its biggest impact. 

   3. Lastly, Congress must ensure that the budget for the CCC accounts for a living wage for Corps members. 

2. Protections for Critical and Sacred Landscapes: Oak Flat + Arctic National Wildlife Refuge!

   1. Please support the investment in shielding Oak Flat, a sacred site of the Apache people in Arizona from the Resolution Copper mine. 

   2. Please support the repeal of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge oil and gas program as well as the cancellation of all leases that were sold as a result of the previous administration’s lease sale. 

3. Investment in Public Land Climate Resiliency 

   1. Please support the funds being allocated to the individual public lands agencies in order to support the protection, restoration, and resiliency of public lands and resources. Investing in these protections is critical for the economic viability of gateway communities outside of public lands, thousands of jobs, and the support of outfitters + guides who operate their businesses on public lands. 

4. Support Mineral Leasing Act Reform

   1. It is reassuring to see thoughtful amendments to the Mineral Leasing Act included in reconciliation. There must be a fair price, and economic return, established for leasing minerals on public lands, and the price has historically been too low. Please support the proposed increased cost of acreage and the requirement that once every 4 years the dollar amounts pertaining to mineral leasing on public lands are assessed for inflation and market needs. Additionally, the effort to shorten the mineral leasing terms is a good step in the right direction, please support these amendments.     

5. Protect NEPA!

   1. Please support the funds being allocated to increasing the efficiency and effectiveness of the National Environmental Policy Act. In order for NEPA to be most effective and ensure that projects are subject to thorough environmental review, there is a need to add capacity via additional funding and personnel. 

6. Bonding Reform and Orphaned Wells Clean up: Create New Jobs! 

   1. We are glad to see $4.7 billion for orphan wells clean up in the Bipartisan Infrastructure Framework. This funding represents a great start toward addressing a massive, country-wide clean-up need. 

   2. We must also address the system that creates these wells in the first place, so we are not faced with the same situation down the road, continuing to leave taxpayers with the cleanup responsibility for the industry’s mess. 

   3. It is crucial to pass the landmark updates to the federal oil and gas bonding requirements, to help better cover the cost of clean-up. This will save the federal government and taxpayers money, and act to prevent future orphaned wells while protecting communities, creating jobs, and combating climate change. 

   4. The BLM does have the authority to raise federal bond amounts, but the agency has failed to do so. Congress must act to ensure that bond updates are in statute, and not dependent on an agency that has failed to address this issue for decades. 

   5. A 2019 GAO report found that current federal bonding requirements for oil and gas operators are inadequate and outdated. These must be updated. Bond amounts have not been updated since the 1950s and 1960s, and have never been adjusted for inflation, nor advances in technology that increase reclamation costs.

7. Carbon Pricing 

   1. We support the inclusion of an adjusted carbon pricing system within budget reconciliation. Starting with a low price (~$20/ton) and increasing after five years will incentivize clean energy production and consumption. As well as a border adjustment tax that will put the United States at a global advantage as we see a shift towards carbon taxation and climate action overseas.

   2. The use of carbon tax funds to pay for other climate policies. This will offset the total cost of climate action. 

   3. Full investment in an updated electric grid to decrease carbon in power production and increase disaster resilience. 

   4. Invest in financially and physically accessible electric vehicles and charging stations through tax rebates and infrastructure investments. 

The Prescription - September 2021

Photo of Leaning Tower by Meros Felsenmaus

The Prescription - September 2021

Yosemite Valley, Leaning Tower

Two climbers attempting the West Face of Leaning Tower in June decided to descend after arriving at Ahwahnee Ledge (the top of the fourth pitch), due to excessive heat and sun. While rappelling the very overhanging first pitch with the haulbag, Climber A rappelled over a small roof and got too far away from the wall to reach the ledge at the bottom of the pitch, despite clipping some directionals during his descent. (The West Face route is approached by a ramp that traverses onto the face, so the first anchor is far above the ground.) Since the climber could not reach the ramp, he continued rappelling to a lower ledge. This ledge had no permanent anchor, and Climber A was not carrying the right pieces to construct a solid anchor. With no way to anchor the haul bag, he could not detach it from the ropes nor reascend the ropes to reach the ramp.

During their descent, the two climbers had called Yosemite Search and Rescue to request some advice. Climbing rangers were able to assist them over the phone with their first rappels, but soon decided to send SAR members to Leaning Tower in case further assistance was needed. When SAR members arrived, they fixed a rope and lowered it to Climber A, and he was able to leave his haul bag and jumar out. They then secured the team’s rappel ropes to the ledge so the second climber could rappel directly to the approach ramp. The ropes and haulbag were retrieved later that day.

ANALYSIS

The Leaning Tower is one of the steepest big walls in North America, the lower half of which overhangs at an average angle of 110 degrees. The West Face has been the site of numerous rappelling difficulties, and while Climber A did utilize some directionals, he extended one piece with a long runner and soon found himself too far from the cliff to place more directional pieces. (Source: Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers.)

The report above and the how-to sidebar that follows will appear in the 2021 edition of ANAC, which is being mailed to AAC members this month.

THE ART OF THE BAIL

Rappelling with a Haulbag: Advice from a Yosemite Ranger

Bailing off a steep route is a nearly inevitable outcome if you climb enough walls, so it’s best to know how to get down safely before you find yourself dangling in space, wishing you knew what to do. Yosemite climbing rangers advise the following techniques for rappelling overhanging routes with a haulbag.

(1) The first person descending should rappel on a fixed single strand of the rappel ropes with a Grigri or a similar locking device, clipping both strands of the ropes to directional pieces to keep them close to the wall. They should also carry equipment to reascend the fixed rope in case of getting too far from the wall or rappelling past the anchor.

(2) When the first person arrives at the lower anchor, they should feed out five to ten feet of slack rope, tie a knot with both ropes, and clip the knot to the anchor. This will close the system for the second rappeller and allow the second person to pull themself into the wall to unclip directionals on their way down and to pull into the anchor at the end of the rappel.

(3) The second rappeller should untie the fixed strand from the upper anchor or undo any knot-blocks, and then rappel both strands as normal, using a tube-style device (such as an ATC) and a third-hand backup. They can unclip and clean the directional pieces as they descend. The second person down should carry the team’s heaviest gear (haulbag, etc.), because the tube-style device produces a smoother rappel than a Grigri. They should not have any reason to reascend the ropes because they will be fixed to the lower anchor. —Christian Black, Yosemite National Park Climbing Ranger

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ANAC 2021 IS COMING SOON!

Production delays at the printer pushed back the delivery schedule for the new edition of Accidents in North American Climbing, but the books have finally arrived at our mailing house in Denver. Boxes are now being filled and books will start going into the mail and onto retailers’ shelves over the next couple of weeks. Thanks for your patience!

The 2021 Accidents includes a new 15-page section documenting and explaining avalanche incidents involving backcountry skiers and snowboarders. We hope you’ll find it to be a useful addition—let us know what you think at [email protected].

Not yet a member of the American Alpine Club? You can order a print or digital (PDF) copy of the 2021 book at the AAC online store.

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ALTITUDE AND VISION SURGERY

Researchers at the University of Washington, University of New Mexico, and the University of Tübingen (Germany) are conducting a research survey to estimate how commonly vision changes occur while traveling to high altitude after vision correction surgery. The goal is to gather information that can help other climbers and trekkers choose the right surgery for them. If you’ve had vision correction surgery and have since traveled to high altitude, you can help by completing an anonymous online survey. Further information about the project and the survey itself can be found by clicking on this link.  

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DANGEROUS HAILSTORM IN THE BLACK HILLS

A sudden July storm caught Ed and three other climbers near the top of Waves, a two-pitch route near Mt. Rushmore in the Black Hills of South Dakota. In the face of 50 mph gusts, plunging temperatures, and golf-ball-size hail, getting off the climb was a test of experience, concentration, and teamwork, as you’ll hear in Episode 68 of the Sharp End podcast.

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The monthly Prescription newsletter is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club. Questions? Suggestions? Write to us at [email protected].

The Morning Person Who Stays Up Late: Getting to Know Nina Williams

"Highball boulder or committing to your community, it's all the same mindset," she continued. " You commit, you follow through. I left competition climbing because I recognized that I wasn’t happy. I wasn't happy because I know I have the power to make a difference, and I wasn't doing it. Yet."

Explore this exhibit to get to know the deeper side of Nina Williams, Board Member at the AAC and elite highball boulderer.

*This story is best told with the help of vibrant and dynamic photography. Dive into this Spark Exhibit to see these photos come alive alongside this story.

The Prescription - August 2021

Belayer is carried to a helicopter landing zone by Hellgate Cliffs in Utah, using a rope bag as an improvised litter. She had borrowed the leader’s helmet for belaying the pitch, which likely saved her from a much more serious injury. Photo courtesy of Salt Lake County Search and Rescue

The Prescription - August 2021

HEADS UP!

Below are two reports from the upcoming edition of Accidents in North American Climbing that share many similarities. Both involved climber-caused rockfall that hit belayers standing on the ground. Both were at sport climbing areas, where many belayers decide not to wear helmets—though, very fortunately, one of these belayers had borrowed the leader’s helmet because of concern about loose rock. In both cases, the belayer was using an assisted-braking belay device (ABD), and, in one case, this very likely saved the leader from a ground fall and significant injuries. Though rare, these incidents should make climbers think about the value of ABDs—and helmets—for belaying single-pitch climbs.

Belayer Hit by Rockfall

Utah, Wasatch Range, Little Cottonwood Canyon

On August 7, Avery Guest (female, 20) was climbing with her partner for the day, Jake Bowles (21), at Hellgate Cliffs, a limestone area high in Little Cottonwood. It was Avery’s second time climbing/belaying outdoors. Jake is an experienced climber.

They chose Monkey Paw (5.9), a single-pitch sport climb, for their first route of the day. Jake was leading, and he got about four bolts up the route (approximately 50 feet off the ground) when he reached for what looked like a good hold. When he weighted the hold, a torso-size rock detached from the wall. It split into three pieces, and one of them landed on Avery, knocking her unconscious. Jake fell approximately 10 feet, pulling Avery about a foot off the ground. She was using a Grigri, which caught Jake’s fall.

Avery regained consciousness quickly and noticed she had an open fracture on her right arm. She managed to lower her partner with her left hand, and he untied her from the belay system. She had post-traumatic amnesia, repeating questions multiple times. They called 911 at about 10:20 a.m. United Fire Authority paramedics and Salt Lake County Search and Rescue responded to the scene within 30 minutes. They gave her pain medication and improvised a litter with Jake’s rope bag in order to carry her about 100 feet down and away from the base of the rock, where Lifeflight could hoist Avery and transport her to the hospital for treatment.

She had two broken bones in her right arm that needed surgery, plus lacerations on her forehead and leg. She also had bleeding in her brain, but managed to avoid brain surgery. Jake suffered only minor scrapes and bruises during the fall.

ANALYSIS

Avery did not have a helmet, so Jake let her use his, knowing there might be rockfall in the area. If Avery had not been wearing Jake’s helmet, her head injuries could have been much worse and possibly fatal. The belay stance for this route was small and surrounded by steep, rocky slopes. Otherwise, she may have been able to move out of the way of the falling rock. (Source: Avery Guest.)

Rockfall Onto Belayer

Colorado, Rifle Mountain Park, Ruckman Cave

At approximately 4 p.m. on September 26, a climber started up The Promise, a 5.12c sport route on the left side of the Ruckman Cave. Just before a ledge at the start of the steep climbing on the route, the climber pulled onto a chalked-up jug that ripped out of the wall. The broken jug, along with more rocks and debris, rained down on the belayer. The climber’s fall was held at the first bolt of the route, and he slammed into the wall sideways, from which he sustained soreness and bruising. The belayer narrowly avoided being hit in the head or upper body by the debris and took all of the damage to his right leg. Fortunately, a visit to the emergency department confirmed no broken bones. (Source: Climber’s report at MountainProject.com.)

ANALYSIS

This incident highlights a paradox often seen at sport climbing areas: The climbers who choose to wear helmets while sport climbing more often are the ones leading or top-roping the climb, not necessarily the belayers and bystanders below the route. Yet, arguably, the belayer is much more likely to be hit by rockfall, which is fairly common in Rifle Mountain Park. More common than helmets at Rifle’s crags are assisted-braking belay devices, which can be a lifesaver in accidents like this one, when the belayer may be severely distracted or even incapacitated by rockfall. (Source: The Editors.)

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Granite Peak from the south, showing A) Location of climber after fall from the Snowbridge, the saddle directly above; B) site of rappel anchor failure; and C) Position of fallen climber. Photo by Gallatin County Search and Rescue

MONTANA’S DANGEROUS HIGH POINT

In the two most recent editions of ANAC, we’ve published reports about numerous incidents on Granite Peak in Montana. One of the more difficult state high points, Granite Peak has semi-technical and technical climbs on several of its faces and ridges. Summer is peak season for the mountain, and it’s worth reading our reports before heading up there.

Rockfall, Anchor Failure (2021 ANAC): Natural rockfall during an attempt on the Notch Couloir and north ridge destroyed a belay anchor, with nearly disastrous results. 

Fall on Snow and Anchor Failure (2021 ANAC): Two falls occurred on September 5 on the east ridge, the standard route up Granite Peak, one of them resulting in a fatality.  

Unroped Falls in Class III/IV Terrain (2020 ANAC): Two falls occurred within the same week in August on the Southwest Ramp route of Granite Peak.

Fall on Ice | Inadequate Gear, Failure to Self-Arrest (2020 ANAC): Two climbers became disoriented after summiting by the east ridge, bivouacked below the summit, and then rappelled the north face to the Granite Glacier, for which they were ill-equipped.

DON’T BLAME THE ROCK

In the June Prescription, we posted a short list of tips for optimizing cam placements, originally published in ANAC 2019. Several climbers from Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin took exception to our generalization about cam placements in the Lake’s “clean but slippery” cracks. AAC member Matthew Clausen elaborated in the following letter to the editor, making some great points about the dangers of blaming the rock for cams that don’t hold.

Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin. Photo by Matthew Clausen

Like many climbers, I pay attention to the AAC’s Accidents in North American Climbing. I value the continued learning required to climb safely. While reading June’s “Prescription,” I felt concerned about this warning: "Numerous reports document that well-placed cams can pull out of wet or dirty rock or even perfectly clean but slippery stone like Yosemite granite or Devil’s Lake quartzite."

In more than a decade of climbing at Devil's Lake, I have never seen a cam slip out of a good placement. All reports of this happening, that I am aware of, were better explained by bad placement upon review. Most often, the failed cams were in an outward flaring crack or without the lobes properly engaged.

I agree with the AAC recommendations that climbers continue to learn more about what makes for a good placement, seek qualified instruction and mentoring, and remember to back up crucial placements. The learning process and experience help us tell fact from myth.

Myths about climbing skills are potentially dangerous. If climbers wrongly believe cams are unsafe in the Baraboo Range’s hard, smooth quartzite, they may feel compelled to:

1) Use less efficient gear for protection, or 
2) Commit to unnecessary runouts, or 
3) Become lax about the subjective hazard of poorly placed cams because they don’t believe a good placement is even possible.

Rather than blaming the geology, we need to combat the complacency of cam placements: These are not magical devices that will hold a fall in any crack. We will bear responsibility for the quality of our decisions.

Sincerely,

Matthew Clausen, Madison, Wisconsin

THE SHARP END VISITS COLORADO

Listen to Episode 67 of the Sharp End Podcast for the story of a helicopter rescue on the long Ellingwood Ridge of La Plata Peak, a Colorado 14er.

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WANTED: CLIMBERS WITH INJURED KNEES

Researchers at Rutgers New Jersey Medical School are seeking climbers to participate in a research survey looking at climbing-related knee injuries. You are eligible to participate in this study if you are 18 to 89 years old, climb at least four times per year, and have sustained a knee injury in a climbing-related incident. The anonymous online survey asks injured people about how much they climb and where they climb, how the knee injury happened, and how they recovered. The survey takes about 10 minutes to complete.

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The monthly Accidents Bulletin is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club.

Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica

Bienvenido a la inauguración de la edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing. 

Desde 1949, American Alpine Club ha publicado este libro anualmente. Nuestro objetivo es ayudar a que nuestros lectores escalen de manera más segura, es por eso que compartimos historias y lecciones de accidentes de escalada en todo Norteamérica. Hoy, con esta traducción hecha por primera vez del libro de Accidentes, buscamos compartir estas lecciones con escaladores de habla hispana en todo el mundo. 

Los reportes en este libro documentan y analizan accidentes de escalada técnica y de esquí de montaña que ocurrieron durante el 2019. No incluimos todos los accidentes de escalada, no obstante, intentamos reportar los incidentes más educativos. (Las “Tablas” en la parte trasera de este documento brindan información básica de más accidentes). La traducción al español es un poco más corta que el libro en Inglés. Sin embargo, todos los reportes que hemos publicado en inglés se pueden encontrar en publications.americanalpineclub.org. 

Nuestros traductores utilizaron los términos y frases de escalada que se escuchan más frecuentemente en México. En el futuro, planeamos incluir un glosario de términos de escalada empleados en varios países de habla hispana. 

Adidas Outdoor patrocina generosamente Accidents in North American Climbing en español. Estamos muy agradecidos con adidas por apoyar la educación de escaladores en todo el mundo. 

Favor de compartir este PDF con amigos, cordadas y organizaciones de escalada. Las correcciones y solicitudes para enviarnos reportes de accidentes en México, Estados Unidos y Canadá son bienvenidas. Usted puede ponerse en contacto con nosotros por medio del correo: [email protected]. 

Le deseamos una escalada segura y feliz.

Welcome to the inaugural Spanish edition of Accidents in North American Climbing! 

This book has been published annually by the American Alpine Club since 1949, sharing stories and lessons from climbing accidents throughout North America. Now, with this first-ever translation of the Accidents book, we aim to share these lessons with Spanish-speaking climbers throughout the world.

The reports in this book analyze technical climbing and ski mountaineering accidents during the year 2019. The Spanish edition is slightly shorter than the original English book. You can find every report we’ve ever published, in English, at publications.americanalpineclub.org.

Our translators used the climbing terms and phrases commonly used in Mexico. In the future, we plan to develop a glossary of climbing terminology for various other Spanish-speaking countries and regions, including Puerto Rico. 

This project received generous sponsorship from adidas Outdoor. We are very grateful to adidas for supporting the education of climbers around the world. 

Please share this PDF with your friends, climbing partners, and climbing organizations. For more info, contact us at [email protected].

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¡Descarga el libro aquí!

Este PDF se puede descargar de manera gratuita. Favor de compartirlo con amigos y cordadas.

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Los Voluntarios

La edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing fue traducida por un equipo muy dedicado de voluntarios de tres países. Sus nombres están enlistados a continuación. ¡Sin ellos, esto no habría sido posible!

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Download the book here!

The Spanish PDF is free to download. Please share this book with your friends and climbing partners.

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Volunteers

The Spanish edition of Accidents in North American Climbing was translated by a hard-working team of volunteers in three countries. Their names are listed below. We could not have done this without them!

Omar Gaytán, director 

Symon Ardila

Austen Bernier

Bernardo Beteta

Néstor Y. Durán Nungaray

Alma Esteban

Tiffany Hensley

Molly Herber

Jasna Hodzic

Mountaineering Books and Vintage Gear Sale

The Prescription - July 2021

The Prescription - July 2021

ACCIDENTS BOOK PUBLISHED IN SPANISH

¡Bienvenido a Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica!

With the generous support of adidas Outdoor, the AAC has translated the 2020 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing into Spanish. Since 1949, our goal has been to help readers become safer climbers by sharing stories and lessons from accidents throughout North America. Now, with this first-ever translation of the Accidents book, we will share these lessons with Spanish-speaking climbers throughout the world.

Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica was translated by a team of volunteers. Bernardo Beteta, a Mexican-born climbing guide now in Boulder, Colorado, explained his interest in helping with the translation: “Climbing is a growing sport in Latin American countries, and there's a fast-growing Spanish-speaking population in the United States. It’s important to make climbing literature available to them.” Molly Herber from Lander, Wyoming, an ANAC regional volunteer and translator, said, “We're all safer and better climbers when we pool our knowledge and experience to learn from others, and making Accidents available in Spanish is one part of that important effort.”

Since Mexico is part of North America and has long been included in our reports, the translators chose the climbing terms and phrases commonly used by Mexican climbers. These terms may be different in other Spanish-speaking countries and regions, and in the future we plan to develop an international glossary of climbing terminology. We hope this publication will be useful to climbers all over the Spanish-speaking world and perhaps will inspire similar educational efforts in other countries.

The 114-page PDF of Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica is available now and can be downloaded for free. Please share this book with your friends, climbing partners, and climbing organizations.

We welcome corrections and suggestions. Contact us at [email protected].

¡Descarga el libro aquí!

Este PDF se puede descargar de manera gratuita. Favor de compartirlo con amigos y cordadas.

Download the book here!

The PDF is free to download. Please share it with your friends and climbing partners.

El Jefe

The Spanish edition of Accidents in North American Climbing was translated by a hard-working team of volunteers in three countries: Symon Ardila, Austen Bernier, Bernardo Beteta, Omar Gaytán, Néstor Y. Durán Nungaray, Alma Esteban, Molly Herber, and Jasna Hodzic. Climber and activist Tiffany Hensley played a crucial role in getting this project started.

Early in the project, Omar Gaytán emerged as a leader : He is a talented climber and candidate for a master’s degree in translation and interpretation, and was incredibly dedicated to the Accidents translation. He’s also co-creator of a cool Mexican climbing podcast, La Mera Beta. We asked Omar, el jefe of this project, to tell us a little about himself:

I’m Omar Gaytán from Juárez, Chihuahua, México. Thanks to my dad, basketball was all I wanted to do throughout my childhood, because my dad loves to play it and he’s also a huge fan of the sport. When I was 15, I discovered climbing—I’m 30 now, and I don’t think I will ever stop climbing. I just love it so much.  

I studied in Juárez until I went to college in El Paso, Texas. I majored in communications with a double minor in translation and French, then moved to Guadalajara to study for a master’s degree in translation and interpretation. The reason I chose this career comes from my very first trip to Hueco Tanks back in 2006. I was 15 and I remember looking at some smiley dirtbags working on their computers before spending the day climbing. Their smiles made me realize that I wanted to dedicate my time to something I love and at the same time make a good living—yes, that’s my personal interpretation of the American Dream.

I’ve been lucky to climb at many different areas in the United Sates, and in México I know pretty much all the major climbing destinations. The climbing I like the most is near my hometown, Juárez. The sport climbing here is amazing and still blooming. I feel like I still have a lot to learn about climbing, and that’s exactly the aspect of both my climbing and my career that I love the most: You never stop learning and growing. I’m becoming a better translator every time I translate documents, the same way I get better at climbing every time I send a project.   

I feel happy to have been able to collaborate with the American Alpine Club on this project. There is nothing better than working on something you love so much, and, on top of that, spread the word about safety in climbing. I am forever thankful for this opportunity, and I hope we only get better at this in the years to come.

STORIES FROM MÉXICO

Mexico is part of North America, of course, but it hasn’t always been a big part of Accidents in North American Climbing. One side benefit of this translation project, we hope, will be increased access to information about climbing in Mexico and other Spanish-speaking areas of North America, including Puerto Rico. In this way, we hope the AAC can help climbers learn more about both the opportunities and hazards in these beautiful areas.

The upcoming ANAC 2021 includes a single report from Mexico, a tragic story involving two U.S. climbers and an unusual accident on a big wall in Chihuahua. Here’s a preview.

Ledge Collapse | Severed Rope

Chihuahua, Basaseachic Falls National Park, El Gigante

On March 6, my best friend Nolan Smythe, 26, and I were on the second day of a free ascent of Logical Progression, a 28-pitch 5.13 big-wall sport climb on El Gigante. Nolan was leading pitch 14. The sun had just gone down, and we had two moderate 5.11 pitches to go before our next bivy. He made it about 80 feet into the pitch and then, after manteling onto a large ledge, the refrigerator-size block of volcanic rock dislodged from under his feet. As he was falling, the rope was cut by the huge block and he fell all the way to the ground.

I was left alone on the wall with a shortened lead line and a limited number of draws. A three-day storm was forecast to start the next afternoon. Below me was a sizable traverse that I wasn’t confident I’d be able to descend safely while keeping my bivy kit. On top of that, we had rappelled in to start the climb, and I didn’t know the walk-out exit for the canyon; this exit route also passes very near several poppy fields run by the local cartel.

Instead, I started roped soloing up to our planned bivy. I primarily used a stick clip, but on occasion free climbing was necessary. I alerted a good friend, Sergio “Tiny” Almada, about the situation via my inReach, and he started toward the wall with another Mexican climber, José David “Bicho” Martinez, planning to rappel in so I could jumar the last 1,200 feet to the top. They arrived as the rain started, and we left my kit behind to jug out quickly. We returned a week later, after the body recovery, and cleaned all of my gear off the wall.

ANALYSIS

All told, this seemed like a freak accident more than anything else. I recall rappelling past the same ledge earlier with a large haul bag. It looked concerning, but after giving it a thorough test, I deemed it solid. Nolan must have had the same thoughts during his lead. It had been snowing for three days before we rappelled in, and this accident happened three days after the snow stopped. It is possible that a freeze-thaw cycle contributed to the rockfall,  but there is no way of definitively knowing. Sometimes a rock that many people have pulled on has a day that it is going to release. Unfortunately, it released on Nolan.

Don’t underestimate Logical Progression because it’s a “sport route.” This wall is remote, large, and committing. The weather can be really bad. Be prepared. You are on your own out there—help in case of an accident isn’t as close as you think it is in Chihuahua.

We were prepared with bivy gear, a stick clip, extra draws, an inReach, and the knowledge to go up or down the wall safely on our own. Nolan and I were both well within our comfort level. We both had quickly dispatched the first 5.13 pitch on the route on the morning of the accident. Some accidents are simply a matter of being in the wrong place at the wrong time. (Source: Aaron Livingston.)

The Optimist

Nolan Smythe’s journal from a 2019 trip to the Wind River Range. Photo by Drew Smith

Aaron Livingston, the author of this report, and Nolan Smythe free climbed a hard route up Mt. Hooker in Wyoming in 2019 and planned to return for their own new route in the summer of 2020. After Nolan’s death, Aaron returned to the Wind River Range with Jackson Marvell and Drew Smith and put up The Optimist, a.k.a. The Nolan Smythe Memorial Route (12 pitches, 5.12). Aaron’s story about this climb will be in the 2021 American Alpine Journal.

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The monthly Accidents Bulletin is supported by adidas Outdoor and the members of the American Alpine Club.

Outdoor Alliance Fly-In: AAC Trip Report

During the week of June 11th, the Outdoor Alliance gathered the leaders of its member groups to virtually connect with lawmakers, agency officials, and policymakers in D.C. For over ten years, Outdoor Alliance has regularly convened its coalition members to meet with decision-makers in D.C. and advocate for human-powered outdoor recreation and conservation issues on behalf of recreationists.

When OA’s member groups come together and are unified on the issues that matter most to recreationists, lawmakers listen, and we can better protect the places we love. 

Here’s a conversation between AAC CEO  Mitsu Iwasaki, and AAC Policy Associate Amelia Howe. 

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Interview with Mitsu Iwasaki

Amelia: What was the OA Fly-In all about? 

Mitsu: Our goal was to build connections with legislators as well as administrative and agency officials, and to ensure public lands and waters are protected for the climbing and human-powered outdoor recreation community.

Amelia: What were the priorities you and your colleagues focused on during your conversations that will benefit the climbing community?

Mitsu: There are several key priorities that we focused on.

1. We want to strengthen recreation and conservation policies to protect more places and increase equitable and sustainable access to outdoor recreation. In particular, we wanted to repair some of the damage to core conservation tools over the last few years.

   • An example of a damaged conservation tool is the shortened required public comment period for the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA). As you already might know, we have a lawsuit with the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) to reestablish the public comment component of NEPA. During the week, we also championed the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR), Colorado Outdoor Recreation Economy Act (CORE), and Protecting America’s Wilderness and Public Lands Act (PAW+). These together will help to expand the protection of public lands and water protection while simplifying the permitting process, which would lead to more equitable access.

2. Many of us have some understanding of 30x30, which works towards protecting 30% of public lands and waters by 2030. We clarified our support for 30x30 and ensured lawmakers recognize that the outdoor recreation community has a role to play in reaching those goals while also helping rural communities navigate economic changes.

3. We pushed for the notion that management agencies are severely underfunded and need better funding to fulfill their stewardship responsibilities. During these conversations, we communicated to Park and Forest Services that a few of our member organizations, like Access Fund and IMBA, have the experience and capacity to support infrastructure projects. 

Amelia: Are the agencies and government officials familiar with the climbing and outdoor recreation communities? 

Mitsu: Yes! Many have deep, personal relationships with outdoor recreation. The agencies and government officials we met with can sympathize with the interests and needs of the outdoor recreation communities.

Amelia: That’s great to hear. 

Mitsu: When we look closely at legislation like the CORE act or the Mt Hood NRA, we can see that conservation and outdoor recreation are very much part of the thinking. In my experience, the recreation community’s presence has grown and continues to grow in DC. 

Amelia: What are some of the more pressing challenges the climbing community is facing that were discussed during these sessions?  

Mitsu: Funding and capacity building, access, and climate are among the most pressing challenges we discussed. For instance, while we knew the Forest Services’ budget has transformed from less than 20% in fire suppression to more than 50% towards fire suppression over the last decade, at least in part due to climate change, we learned that the Forest Service has lost over half of their planning staff over the last handful of years. While they’ve been appropriated more funds, they’ll be prioritizing rebuilding capacity this coming year. 

Amelia: Can you speak to the importance of bringing OA partners together for these meetings?

Mitsu: Together, we’re able to unite and coordinate strategies and actions with policy experts from across the human-powered recreation spaces from across the country. This helps us create a larger and more informed presence through our joint policy shop. We’re able to track important issues locally, regionally, and nationally and how they may overlap across our sectors in a way that we simply couldn’t as independent organizations.

Amelia: Stronger in numbers? 

Mitsu: Definitely. Through combining our resources, we’re able to maintain a strong presence in DC through incredibly effective individuals like Adam Cramer, OA’s CEO, and his team. I believe together we represent 300,000 members from across the country.

Amelia: What should climbers keep their eyes on during this administration? 

Mitsu: I think as climbers, we should be continuously asking ourselves what kind of action we can take to better support the National Park Service, Forest Service, and local governments and land managers. 

Amelia: Any specifics on why and which policies? 

Mitsu: We know agencies have limited funding, are pulled in many directions by varied interests and there is a continued growing impact and demand. Keeping an eye on SOAR, CORE/PAW+, and 30x30, as well as communicating support to your congresswomen/men and senators is critically important. In addition, becoming or staying active and up to date with policies that help to protect and provide access is critically important for our future as climbers. 

Amelia: What was your favorite meeting or personal fly-in highlight?

Mitsu: Meeting Malcolm McGeary from Senator Wyden’s office and learning about what’s been happening in Oregon was my highlight. I just moved to Colorado from Oregon last year, so those issues are close to home for me. 

In addition, hearing from Vice President Harris’ office that activating towards 30x30 is among their highest priorities, which was crystallized throughout the week as the Department of the Interior and Department of Agriculture communicated their intent toward 30x30 goals. This gave me a huge amount of optimism towards meeting those very ambitious goals.

Amelia: That’s wonderful! 

Mitsu: Right? In my experience, it’s quite rare to hear or experience such unified multi-agency enthusiasm and direction toward a common goal. 

Amelia: Last question for you, Mitsu. If you had one tip for climbers who want to contribute to policy and advocacy work what would it be? 

Mitsu: There are many ways for climbers to contribute to policy and advocacy work, but one place to start would be to volunteer or support the policy work of both the AAC and your local climbing organization! 

Photo: AAC Member Grey Satterfield

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The American Alpine Club is thrilled to be a contributing member of the Outdoor Alliance. The Outdoor Alliance consists of Access Fund, American Canoe Association, American Whitewater, IMBA, Winter Wildlands Alliance, The Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, Colorado Mountain Club, and Surfrider Foundation–while the groups range from climbers to backcountry skiers to mountain bikers, the members share many common priorities and values.