MOAB CRAGGIN' CLASSIC
October 26-28, 2018
What's better than a weekend in the desert?
The Moab Craggin’ Classic, powered by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment, is the grassroots desert climbers fest! This October 26-28, we'll be uniting climbers around the campfire at a world renowned destination to celebrate all things climbing. Meet new belay partners, learn new skills and techniques, and give back to the local crags.
The Moab Craggin' Classic features climbing clinics taught by professional climbers and local climbing guides. New this year, we are hosting Adventure Film Fest, featuring gritty, creative, visceral, inspiring, poignant adventure films. Evenings are for partying, so we’ve lined up beer from Moab Brewery, a festive costume contest (with prizes!), presentations, music, gear giveaways, and high-fives a'plenty! To round out the festival you’ll also get to enjoy a vendor village, gear demos, and, of course, a crag stewardship project.
So grab your buddy, extra water, and rally to the desert for the Moab Craggin’ Classic!
GENERAL WEEKEND PASS: $40
Includes: AAC trucker hat, Klean Kanteen pint glass, coffee Saturday morning, slideshows and films, gear demos, costume contest and dance party, and much more! (Clinics and camping NOT included)
CLINIC REGISTRATION: $70
Up your game with an array of climbing clinics taught by pro climbers and guides. All clinics run Saturday, October 27th from 8:00am-4:00pm. Please show up 15-20 minutes early. See below for details.
*Current AAC members will receive a 10% discount upon registration checkout.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 26th
- 4:00 PM - 7:00 PM: Check In is Open
Our weekend headquarters and vendor village will be located at the Kane Creek Campground (1005 Kane Creek Blvd, Moab, UT 84532), on the banks of the mighty Colorado River. Meet us here early to register and check in for the weekend.
- 8:00 PM: Weekend Kickoff featuring local climbing legend and author: Steve “Crusher” Bartlett
Local author and climbing aficionado, Crusher Bartlett gives a slide show of decades of climbing in the area. Crusher will again re-define the standard and history of the region. Some other local legends are also known to make guest appearances… so be ready for anything! Before the show be sure to peruse the vendor village where our rad sponsors will be set up with games and giveaways.
The purchase of raffle tickets helps to fund the Live Your Dream grant program, sending climbers like you all over the world! Buy tickets, win cool stuff, and help someone live their climbing dream!
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 27th
- 7:00 AM - 8:00 AM: Coffee at the Campground
No day should start without coffee! Bring your mug (so we can keep the event green) and we’ll fill it up with some tasty bean water.
- 7:30 AM: Gear Demos Begin
Your weekend pass includes access to gear demos (additional collateral required). Try out the latest and greatest gear at the crag Saturday, during your clinic or on your own. Demos are arranged with our fantastic sponsors at the Vendor Village.
- 8:00 AM - 4:00 PM: Climbing Clinics with the Pros, hosted by Moab Desert Adventures, Moab Cliffs and Canyons, Desert Highlights, and Clapper Adventures
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Take your climbing to a new level by signing up for a climbing clinic taught by professional climbers and local guides! Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected. Learn the skills you need to climb more comfortably and efficiently in the desert and beyond. Clinics will include topics such as clean aid climbing tactics, off-width climbing, splitter crack technique, esoteric bouldering at Big Bend, self-rescue skills, crag etiquette, fast and light systems, multi-pitch efficiency and management, mental techniques for committed climbing, and more! Clinic details below.
- 4:30 PM: Costume Party on the River with Moab Brewery
It’s never too early to throw on your costume! Gather with the crew and howl at the moon, and if you do so in costume you just might take home a rad prize. Enjoy some tasty Moab Brewery beer, music, silent auction and raffle, climbing games, and general shenanigans at Vendor Village area.
- 5:30 PM: BYOD (Bring Your Own Dinner)
Bring your own grub but come cook it with all your new friends! No cooking supplies is provided, but the company will be fantastic.
- 7:00 PM: Adventure Film Festival
The Adventure Film Fest is coming to town, complete with gritty, creative, visceral, inspiring, poignant films. Explore everything from extreme sports to activism through adventure while taking it all in under the desert stars.
- 8:30 PM - 11:00 PM: Nighttime Shenanigans
Need we say more?! The party continues including the Halloween costume contest, bonfire, slackline rodeo, and plenty of booty shakin’! Best costumes are going home with rad prizes, so be sure to bring your A game! Light the fires. Dress up. Drink beers. Act weird.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28th
- 8:00 AM - 8:30 AM: Love Muffin’ Breakfast at Kane Creek
Get fed some Love when you register to help with this years crag stewardship project! Enjoy a tasty breakfast from Moab based Love Muffin Cafe before heading out to the crag to do some good.
- 9:00 AM: Crag Stewardship Project
We are psyched to be partnering with Moab Trail Mix again for our local Craggin Classic stewardship project. The Abraxis trail will be getting a face lift with improved access to parking and toilets!
*First 20 people to register online for the stewardship project AND show up will receive a special thank you gift from our friends at Klean Kanteen.
- 2:00 PM: Casual Social Craggin’ Meet up
After the stewardship project is wrapped up you’re invited to stick around with your new friends and new skills to enjoy the crag you just gave love to. Bring your own gear and explore some of the best splitters and accessible tower Moab has to offer. *This is an unguided meetup experience not facilitated by the AAC or it’s partners* enjoy the climbing!
Clinics for the Moab Craggin’ Classic will be held on Saturday, October 28th from 8:00am to 4:00pm, weather permitting. Clinics will begin promptly at 8:00am. Please meet at Kane Creek Campground; grand central for the weekend’s events. Arrive 15 minutes early, prepared to learn from the best. All clinics are $70; AAC members receive 10% off at registration.
Clinic offerings will include local-specific topics, as well as universally applicable climbing techniques. All clinics will be conducted with pro athletes and local professional guides. All guides taking part are local Moab folks; desert rats with hard and true knowledge of our diverse canyon lands terrain, and the sensitivities required to climb in the desert safely, respectfully, and at full throttle! Space is limited for all clinics and have a minimum participant number. We’ll do the best to accommodate everyone’s first choice but some rearranging may be necessary.
Equipment Needed: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate clothing for climbing.
GEAR DEMOS AVAILABLE!
- HUGE DAYS WITH A LIGHT RACK with Rob Pizem, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
There are few things more fascinating or fulfilling than proficiently negotiating technical terrain on huge rock routes. Here, proficiency is the key … when everything we know and all the training we do comes together to create a very particular kind of accomplishment. This clinic is designed to explore the strategies and tactics involved in trying to improve our efficiency on big multi-pitch rock routes so we can ultimately move faster and climb higher. We will be studying the skills, the gear, and our objectives in order to distill this vast subject matter down to a digestible set of strategies and tactics that we can exercise in our regular climbing and training routines. The CAMP athletes teaching these clinics are absolute experts on the subject with bold first ascents around the world and numerous speed records across the United States from the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon to the Nose on El Capitan. See the clinic curriculum for more details.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate / Advanced
- ART OF THE PROJECT with Ben Rueck, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
The Art of the Project is a clinic for all levels of rock climbers designed to help them pursue harder routes. To develop the curriculum, we worked with CAMP athlete Dan Mirsky who credits his growth as a climber to learning and understanding the art of project. The curriculum is designed to put a structure behind projecting that can be used to dissect and accomplish our objectives. The clinic covers the physical and mental parts of the process from the perspective of athletes who have had to use these very tools to push their climbing to new levels.
SKILL LEVEL: All skill levels
A note from Ben: “I needed to stop asking why I could not climb the sequence and I needed to start asking how I could climb the sequence. Suddenly a map opened before me and I could understand the things that needed to happen if I was going to succeed. That map is what I have tried to put structure behind for clinic attendees.”
- LIGHT & FAST ALPINISM with Scott Bennett, presented by CAMP Technical Adventure Equipment
Whether you are an experienced alpinist or beginning mountaineer, the benefits of the light & fast approach are indisputable. Being lighter means using less energy with every step we take and every move we make. It is also just downright more comfortable when we are in motion. Being fast equates directly to safety. It means we are navigating hazardous terrain more quickly and tagging the summit in time to descend safely. It is also the way we progress towards bigger objectives over time. This clinic covers the most important aspects of the light & fast approach with a short classroom session followed by an intensive field session where we work on the implementation of the skills, strategies and tactics that are most useful for you.
SKILL LEVEL: Intermediate to advanced
- KNOW THE ROPES, presented by The American Alpine Club
AAC Education has been taking controversial climbing topics head on for the last 6 years. The most controversial topics in climbing tend to generate fervor because misinformation, dogma, and rigid problem-solving often characterize what we think we know about some of the most foundational skills in American climbing. These knowledge gaps often lead to accidents, but it’s not always the novice climber that gets hurt. Intermediate and advanced climbers also fall victim to knowledge gaps.
The Know the Ropes sampler is a clinic for any climber that wants to get off the Mountain Project forum and have a real hands-on myth-busting, set-the-record-straight, interactive educational session on the following topics: Belaying in single pitch and multipitch; Rappelling; Cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting; Anchor building.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic is appropriate for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants have prior experience with the clinic topics, the clinic can be more hands-on. If not, the clinic still has informational value for those that might not yet be ready to practice in 5th class terrain.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, any anchor building equipment). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
- IMPROVISED SELF-RESCUE, presented by The American Alpine Club
Self-Rescue curricula rarely focus on the scenarios that actually routinely happen. Our clinic will spend less time focusing on unlikely scenarios like incapacitated climbers or leader-rescue and more time focusing on the awkward scenarios that every climber eventually experiences: Rope gets stuck when you try to pull it; Rope Drag is so severe the leader can’t move; I dropped my belay device; My rope doesn’t make it to the next rap station.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic has value for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants to do not have traditional lead climbing experience or multi pitch climbing experience, the hands-on portions of the clinics will likely be limited to ground school.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Specific rescue tools (2 5mm nylon prussic loops or Sterling Hollowblocks, 2 48" slings, 2 7mm nylon cordellette, a mechanical assisted braking device, a tube style belay device with plaquette function like an ATC Guide or Reverso, 4 extra HMS style locking carabiners). Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, lead climbing and anchor building tools). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools, etc. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
- SPLITTER CRACK CLIMBING with Jay Smith
Jay Smith has unimaginable lists of first ascents all over the world, and Jay in particular is one of the most prolific crack climbers in the canyonlands region. Just like Fred Beckey and Layton Kor, if you’ve climbed enough, and whether you know it or not, you’ve likely climbed one of Jay’s routes. Join this legend to learn better technique for splitter cracks. As possibly the best crack-climbing crag in Moab, Maverick’s cracks are amazing Wingate Sandstone, just like Indian Creek, so this is a perfect clinic for those hoping to take their desert splitter technique to the next level. Just like The Creek though, the warm-ups are 5.10, so be ready for some physical climbing.
- OFF-WIDTHS ARE BEAUTIFUL with Ashley Ashcroft, Danny Parker and Jay Anderson, presented by Butora
To the initiated, off-width climbing is known as one of the most technical styles of climbing there is. To the uninitiated, it’s little more than an instrument of torture. A little-known legend, and endeared to all who know him, Jay is one of the all-time greatest off-width climbers in the world. He was the author of what was at the time the world’s first 5.13 off-width, Lucille, in Vedauwoo, Wyoming, and has been quietly crushing hard off-widths, some of which are still unrepeated, for decades. Jay is the trusted advisor to many of our modern off-width idols, acting as a sensei of sorts with his quick wit and excellent technique. All these folks will help you ascend that next wide crack, inch by inch.
If you are a glutton for punishment, or simply want to climb that one damn off-width pitch on the tower route of your choice, this clinic is for you. At Off-Width City in Long Canyon, you’ll have the chance to work on the subtle art of off-width war with Butora athletes Ashley Ashcroft and Danny Parker, plus local climbing legend Jay Anderson.
- SLABANEERING 101
One of climbing’s most eery sub-disciplines, and a favorite of last year’s event - slab climbing! Learn how to step it up, high step it up that is! Around here, we call is smanding; the sometimes-scary art of smearing on sand. Learn this esoteric practice while enjoying a grand tour of some of Wall Streets best slab climbs. Though we’ll start on 5.8, we’ll spend a good deal of our time right around 5.10. These climbs, done ground-up on the first ascents, are a hallmark of the famous Wall Street climbing area.
However, the skills you’ll develop will help you everywhere; from obscure desert towers with that one dreaded face pitch, to Yosemite and Joshua Tree, Eldorado Canyon, and beyond. Learning to use your feet is an essential tool in a well-rounded climber’s quiver. Speaking of well-rounded, did someone say smanding?!
- BIG BEND BOULDERING with Chris Schulte, presented by Black Diamond
Big Bend is Moab’s famous bouldering zone for Sandstone Bloc’s. The place is all about delicacy. Sandstone is fragile, and here especially so. Tiptoe through the crypto. Mind the trails. Be real low impact. Holds are few and far between. The style is powerful and balancy. There are many slabs, arêtes, slopers and other shapes. Holds are usually far apart. The rock can be very sandy or hard as sharpening stones. Join Chris to get pointers from one of the desert’s most prolific boulderers.
- MOVEMENT EFFICIENCY with Marcus Garcia, presented by Sterling Ropes
From the moment, the first hold is felt and the first step is taken, there are many minute muscle that are triggered to keep you stable on the route. Marcus Garcia will break down the individual moves in isolation that help you make one move in the most efficient manner. Over the course of the route you can find yourself less pumped and able to move with more ease. Focus will be on fingers placement, grip relax technique, shoulder driving movement. Leg driven movement. Hip position. Foot placement. These components should be considered when making a single move. When the moves are broken down in its simplicity, efficiency takes over.
- TRAD IS RAD! An Introduction to Trad Climbing with Jesse Huey, presented by Arc’teryx
Sport climbing is great fun, but with few exceptions, the greatest climbs in the world—the most classic, historic lines—follow lines of natural weakness that require specific gear and specific techniques. Transitioning into traditional climbing can be a difficult affair without the proper mentorship, because of all the extra components involved. Logistically speaking, traditional climbing is more complex and involved than sport climbing, with a lot more to know about technique, gear placements, anchors, etc. If you are interested in expanding your skills beyond bolted sport climbs, this clinic is for you. This traditional climbing clinic will prepare you to place solid protection and build bombproof anchors to keep you feeling confident about climbing on your gear. All of this will allow you to venture further into the rich field of amazing American traditional climbing venues.
- KEEPING A COOL HEAD ON THE SHARP END with Hazel Findlay, presented by Black Diamond
Improve your climbing performance and enjoyment with this introduction to mental-training skills workshop. Hazel will teach: right mindset, right motivation, focusing techniques and tools for managing: fear of falling/stress/unknowns/performance pressure. This workshop is for anyone who would like to enjoy their climbing more than they already do or for anyone who wants to improve their climbing.
- GETTING TO THE GOODS - GYM TO CRAG with Devo Derby, presented by Adidas:
If your climbing has thus far been relegated to the indoors and you are looking to transition to outdoor climbing, this clinic is a great offering to get you started. This course is appropriate for top rope climbers and for those who are newly lead- certified or working towards certification in your local gym. Under the watchful eye of our expert local guides, we will help you make the transition to outdoor climbing and learn the necessary skills such as proper lead and top-rope belay technique, principles of lead climbing, anchor building, top-rope anchor cleaning, proper crag etiquette, etc.
SKILL LEVEL: All levels
- LET’S CLIMB! an Introduction to Climbing with Mary Catherin Eden and Cadi Carlson, presented by Cypher *WOMEN ONLY*
An introduction to climbing for women looking to learn the basics of climbing and have fun! The skills covered in this clinic will be the fundamental skills every climber should understand to be a safe and confident rock climber. The list of skills being covered include and not limited to: Proper top rope belay, tying in, universal commands, and climbing technique.
We will be located an easy 3 mile pedal from Moab at 1005 Kane Creek Blvd. Kane Creek Campground is located on the Colorado River facing the "Wall Street" crag.
If traveling from the north, follow Main Street, aka highway 191, until you get to Kane Springs Boulevard. Turn right and follow this to the campground. If traveling from the south, it will be a left between the McDonalds and Burger King.
There are direct flights from Denver to Moab starting at just $79! Several shuttle services can take you from the airport to the shindig.
This beautiful spot has very spotty cell service, don't count on calls and consider yourself lucky to get a text through.
Lodging and Campground Info:
**Please note, camping is not included with Weekend Pass
Kane Creek Campground (Event Location)
The most convenient campground to the event is with our hosts Kane Creek.
Camping is not included with Weekend Pass and must be purchased directly through the campground.
Amenities: shade, showers, higher end sites include tables or even full RV hook-ups
How to Book: www.kanecreekmoab.com/book-a-room
There are many Bureau of Land Management (BLM) campgrounds on the public lands surrounding Moab, although most fill daily in October. King's Bottom is the closest. Please note that individual campsites are available on a first come – first served basis only. No reservations are accepted, so we recommend arriving earlier in the day to secure a spot.
Other Lodging Options
Moab has many options lodging options including hostels, hotels, motels, condo's, guest houses, B&B's resorts etc. The best lodging planning info is available at discovermoab.com
JOIN THE FUN:
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If you have any questions regarding the Moab Craggin' Classic, please contact Event Coordinator Evan Clapper at [email protected]