SMITH ROCK CRAGGIN' CLASSIC
SEPTEMBER 15-17, 2017
Ah, homecomings. Is there anything more sweet? The American Alpine Club, CAMP USA, and Redpoint Climbers Supply are proud to announce the return of the Craggin' Classic Series to Smith Rock!
Home, sweet home, at last.
Back in Oregon at historic Smith Rock State Park this September 15th to 17th, the 2017 event will feature films, slideshows, clinics, parties, community and local stewardship and conservation projects all in celebration of the Pacific Northwest's climbing and climbers!
With a full lineup of climbing clinics taught by professional athletes and local guides from Chockstone Climbing Guides, there's no way you won't enhance your game. Add to that a very special presentation (and clinic) from climbing legend and EDELRID athlete Tommy Caldwell. Also enjoy plenty of local beer all weekend long from Silver Moon Brewing Co., local food vendors, silent auctions and raffles with incredible deals on top-end gear, a special guest appearance and art workshop by radical-outdoor-artist Jeremy Collins, and a Sunday Volunteer Breakfast followed by trail work with Mazamas and Oregon State Parks. This is seriously a weekend not to be missed! Seriously.
Oh yeah, and our new event venue puts camping, parking, partying, and climbing--though not necessarily in that order--all within close walking distance to the Park! So, carpool on out to Smith, throw some high-fives, do some climbing, drink and eat up, meet some new friends, feel warm and fuzzy. (In that order.)
GENERAL WEEKEND PASS: $40
Includes: Event entrance Friday, Saturday, and Sunday including access to all entertainment; On-site camping Friday and Saturday nights; Free Swag Bag including an AAC trucker hat and event cup; beer for those 21+; and breakfast from our good friends at Solid Rock Climbers for Christ. Event ticket price does not include clinics, dinners or parking. See below for more details.
PARKING PASS: $5
Don't be mad. Space is a little limited for car and carpooling is better for the environment. Parking passes are an extra $5 per vehicle and may be purchased during registration. Only 160 parking passes are available so help us out and carpool! Meet up with other carpoolers, or offer up a ride to others, here.
CLINIC REGISTRATION: $70
Up your game with an array of climbing clinics taught by professional climbing athletes and local guides from Chockstone Climbing Guides. All clinics run Saturday, September 16th from 9:00am to 3:00pm. See below for clinic descriptions and details.
*Current AAC members will receive a 10% discount upon registration checkout.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 15th
- 5:00 PM: Participant Check-In at Redpoint Climbers Supply
Participants must check in at Redpoint Climbers Supply, located at 8222 N Hwy 97 Ste 101 Terrebonne, OR.
**Only check-in takes place at Redpoint. All event activities, camping, beer, vendors, etc. occur at: 9025 NE Crooked River Drive, Terrebonne, OR.
- 7:30 PM: Beacon Rock: Then & Now
Beacon Rock: Then & Now is a short documentary about three historic climbing routes on Beacon Rock in the Columbia River Gorge: 1901 Spike Route, 1954 Southeast Corner and 1961 Dods Jam.Produced and presented by Mazamas.
- 8:00 PM: Tommy Caldwell Slideshow presented by EDELRID
Let's give a warm round applause for climbing legend Tommy Caldwell. If you've been living under a rock on the moon for the last 20 years, he's the first person to free climb Dawn Wall in Yosemite, easily the worlds most difficult multi-pitch bigwall free climb.. and he's one of a very, very small handful to ever free climb the Nose.. and the famous survivor of a Kyrgyzstani kidnapping.. not to mention the first ascensionist of some of the world's most difficult climbing routes. Enough to say he's one of the greatest climbers of all time. And he's a damn nice fella, too. Bring a camp chair if you've got one!
Roundabout Books from Bend, OR will be on hand both Friday and Saturday nights selling copies of The Push, Tommy's new book. Tommy will only be doing book signing Saturday, however.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 16th
- 7:30 AM - 9:00 AM: Free Breakfast with Solid Rock Climbers for Christ
Nourish your body before a big day of sending in the Park!
- 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM: Climbing Clinics with the Pros, hosted by Chockstone Climbing Guides
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Sign up for a climbing clinic taught by the professional climbing athletes and local climbing guides at Chockstone Climbing Guides and up your game. Everyone has something to learn. Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.
Please show up 15-20 minutes early, ready to go, at the Smith Rock State Park yurt on Smith Rock Loop. See below for clinic descriptions and details.
- 9:00 AM - 11:30 AM: Jeremy Collins Walk & Draw Half-Day Clinic 1
See details below.
- 12:30 PM - 3:00 PM: Jeremy Collins Walk & Draw Half-Day Clinic 2
See details below.
4:00 PM: Pre-Party Yoga Session with Olivia Hsu
Wind down your day of climbing with some stretching and relaxing before revving it back up for the Smith Rock Social! Limber up, friends! Taught by Sterling Rope athelte Olivia Hsu.
About Olivia: First a world-class climber and then a yogi, Olivia Hsu began yoga as part of her curiosity with the art of movement and has maintained a dedicated practice ever since. She underwent in-depth studies of the Ashtanga Vinyasa tradition through a traditional apprenticeship several years, and continued her studies with Richard Freeman after moving to Boulder, CO in 2006. Her teachings draw from the knowledge of her own experience as a teacher and as a practitioner, making yoga both accessible and non-intimidating to her students. Olivia’s interest lies in cultivating mindfulness that flows from a focused and continuous asana practice. Her teaching style comprises intuitive hands-on adjustments, energetic alignment, and awakening the internal awareness to the self. Olivia feels blessed for her many wonderful teachers and hopes to cultivate a similar appreciation of yoga for her students.
- 4:00 PM - 10:00 PM: Climber Celebration Party with Silver Moon Brewing Co.
Pour the beers, friend! Join the tribe for a Climber Celebration Party that ain't to be missed. Featuring (free!) local beer from Silver Moon Brewing Co., local food trucks slinging the tastiest of the tasty, free swag and gear handouts, a silent auction and raffle featuring amazing deals on top end gear, games, music, and vendor village. Additionally, Bend Rock Gym will host a special slew of games including Smith Rock Sumo, Rack & Pack Comp, and other crazy shenanigans. Grab a brewski and howl at the moon!
- 10:00 PM: Quiet Time
Gotta respect the neighbors if we want to keep hosting this Smith Rock event!
SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 17th
- 8:00 AM: Free Volunteer Breakfast with Solid Rock Climbers for Christ
Rally the crew in the morning for a free volunteer pancake breakfast hosted by our friends at Solid Rock Climbers for Christ. Enjoy local coffee provided by Redpoint Climbers Supply!
- 9:00 AM: Stewardship Project at Smith Rock State Park with Mazamas
With your belly full, sign up for a half-day of givin' back to the well-being of Smith Rock State Park, our renowned climbing destination. Hosted by the Mazamas. Please meet at the Smith Rock Yurt on Smith Rock Loop.
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Take your climbing to a new level by signing up for a climbing clinic taught by professional climbers and local guides from Chockstone Climbing Guides! Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.
Clinics for the Smith Rock Craggin’ Classic will be held on Saturday, September 16th from 9:00am to 3:00pm, weather permitting. Arrive 15-20 minutes early at the Smith Rock Yurt on Smith Rock Loop, prepared to learn from the best. Clinics will begin promptly at 9:00am.
Jeremy Collins is leading two, identical 1/2 day clinics. The first begins at 9:00am, the second at 12:30pm. Each clinic is $35. See below for more details.
Personal Equipment Needed: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, chalk, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate clothing for climbing.
- EFFICIENT MULTI-PITCHING with Tommy Caldwell, presented by EDELRID
Frustrated with taking too much time on long multi-pitch routes? Saving just a few minutes on each task along the way can mean the difference between an unplanned night on the rock, getting caught in bad weather, or simply getting back to camp to get a good nights sleep. Increasing your speed and efficiency will allow for a whole new world of longer, more challenging climbs! Don’t miss spending the day with Tommy Caldwell to glean his depth of experience, knowledge, skill and amazing teaching abilities in exploring techniques in multi-pitch efficiency.
PREREQUISITES: Trad Leading & Belaying.
About Tommy: Tommy Caldwell has established some of the hardest routes in the country and free climbed 12 routes on El Capitan in Yosemite. He believes difficult journeys, with little chance for success, teach him the most. This attitude is no better exemplified than by his by his first free ascent of Dawn Wall in January of 2015, and his first ascent of the Fitz Traverse in Patagonia in February of 2014. He has just released a memoir, “The Push,” and has been touring it around the country.
- HUGE DAYS WITH A LIGHT RACK with Max Tepfer, presented by CAMP USA
There are few things more fascinating or fulfilling than proficiently negotiating technical terrain on huge rock routes. Here, proficiency is the key … when everything we know and all the training we do comes together to create a very particular kind of accomplishment. This clinic is designed to explore the strategies and tactics involved in trying to improve our efficiency on big multi-pitch rock routes so we can ultimately move faster and climb higher. We will be studying the skills, the gear, and our objectives in order to distill this vast subject matter down to a digestible set of strategies and tactics that we can exercise in our regular climbing and training routines. The CAMP athletes teaching these clinics are absolute experts on the subject with bold first ascents around the world and numerous speed records across the United States from the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon to the Nose on El Capitan. See the clinic curriculum for more details.
- THE ART OF THE PROJECT with Dan Mirsky, presented by CAMP USA
The Art of the Project is an intensive clinic designed to help climbers break into new levels of difficulty within a single pitch environment. To develop the curriculum, we worked with CAMP athlete Ben Rueck who credits his growth as a climber to learning and understanding the art of project. The curriculum is designed to put a structure behind projecting that can be used to dissect and accomplish our objectives. The clinic covers the emotional, mental, and physical parts of the process from the perspective of athletes who have had to use these very tools to push their climbing to new levels.
Here is a short introduction from the author:
"Two years and over 50 falls had gone into trying to send Gutless Wonder (5.14b), my first climb at that grade. I can only estimate the falls because after thirty of them, I’d just quit counting. I wanted to walk away from the 50 degree lime stone wall and sweep the idea of red-pointing this Colorado test piece under the rug. But I couldn’t and I wouldn’t. There was an indescribable pull that forced me to grow as a climber and as a person –– as well as plant the seed for this clinic. It all started with a simple shift in my mental framework, ‘It is not so much the Why, but the How that matters.’
Easy phrase to speak aloud, but it took ten years for me to grasp and understand …
I needed to stop asking why I could not climb the sequence and I needed to start asking how I could climb the sequence. Suddenly a map opened before me and I could understand the things that needed to happen if I was going to succeed. That map is what I have tried to put structure behind for clinic attendees."
ADVANCED SPORT LEAD with Jonathan Siegrist, presented by Arc'Teryx
This clinic is suited for the climber who already is leading comfortably on bolts and is looking to improve their technique to climb at the next grade. You will learn skills from professional climber Jonathan Siegrist to improve your sport climbing technique on more difficult climbs and in more complex situations. Foot work, technique and mid climb resting to recuperate on longer pumpier routes will be some of the topics of discussion. This clinic is a part of the Arc'Teryx Climbing Academy.
PREREQUISITES: Comfortable lead climbing and belaying.
About Jonathan Siegrist: Jonathan is one of the most accomplished sport climbers of the modern era. To list all of his notable accomplishments here would be impractical. He has been awarded the Golden Piton Award twice, first in 2009 for Breakaway Success and again in 2012 for Most Productive. And productive is an understatement: his resume includes numerous onsight-flashed 5.14+ sport climbs; successful ascsents of Biographie (5.15a), La Rambla (5.15a), and Papichulo (5.15a); numerous 5.14 trad ascents, including notorious runouts.. the list goes on and on. Learn more about Jonathan here.
PREPARING PERFECT TRAD ADVENTURES w/ Graham Zimmerman, presented by Outdoor Research
The actual climb is far from the only thing to prepare for when heading out for an adventure. How do you plan an adventure that is appropriate for the expected elements? Where do you want to go, how long will it take you to get there? How long do you expect to spend on your endeavor? Learn about using a guidebook, preparing for the elements, following the sun (or the shade), reading topo maps, following your trail, finding routes, knowing your gear, and route-reading. Then enjoy learning about gear placement and get on some of the many beautiful trad routes at Smith Rock and climb on!
PREREQUISITES: Lead climbing & belaying
About Graham: Graham Zimmerman was born in New Zealand raised in the Northwest. After being exposed to alpine terrain in the Cascades he moved back to NZ where he cut his teeth in the Southern Alps and became a strong part of the Kiwi climbing community. An experienced alpinist, his expeditions have taken him from Alaska to Patagonia to Kyrgyzstan to Pakistan and all over the lower 48 and Canada, where he has established numerous new routes on rock, ice and snow. He was also a finalist for the coveted Piolet d’Or. Graham's clinic is additionally presented by Petzl
WALK & DRAW ADVENTURE with Jeremy Collins
Join the Meridian Line owner, climber, author, filmmaker and inexhaustible artist Jeremy Collins to draw riverside. Jeremy will share his philosophy of on-location art creation and offer open discussion for the professional, casual or recreational artist. Bring your own art supplies.
Two time options are available:
Session 1: 9-11:30am ($35)
Session 2: 12:30-3pm ($35)
Equipment Needed: Sketchpad, drawing/painting tool(s), hiking shoes/boots, lunch/calories, hydration, appropriate clothing for the elements.
About Jeremy: As an illustrator, story teller, film director, and exploratory rock climber, Jeremy Collins' repertoire is vast. His illustrative art has been featured in more than 150 climbing magazines and in numerous how-to books. He has helped raise thousands of dollars for various causes and non-profits including pediatric brain cancer research, The Access Fund, American Alpine Club, Habitat For Humanity, Causecentric andwater.org. He is an award-winning filmmaker, and, on the rock, Jeremy has pioneered more than 300 new routes in the United States and established notable first ascents in Argentina, Venezuela, Canada, and China. Jeremy's clinic is presented by Keen.
BUILDING A BETTER BOULDERER with Olivia Hsu, presented by Sterling Rope
Join professional climbing athlete Olivia Hsu and up your game on the stone. Bouldering has evolved into a completely separate climbing specialty that involves difficult moves, short burst of strength, and intense concentration. Sign up for this clinic to develop and refine your bouldering skills to take your abilities to the next level. The focus will be on readying yourself for difficult projects, tactics, and execution. This clinic will make you a better boulderer.
PREREQUISITES: Some climbing experience
About Olivia: Olivia fondly compares herself to her favorite Sterling rope, the Nano IX- “Light and strong and tough as nails." Olivia started climbing at school in Australia. She joined the climbing club to meet people and managed to get to the top of a 5.10 on her first try when half the guys couldn’t complete it. She was instantly hooked. Now she’s a world-class climber and also a yogi. When she’s not climbing, she dedicates her spare time to yoga as part of her curiosity with the art of movement and has maintained a dedicated practice ever since.
SPORT CLIMBING with Audrey Sniezek
Join professional climber Audrey Sniezek and embark on your sport climbing journey! Develop a solid foundation in sport climbing techniques and aim for a variety of single pitch climbs. Learn about lead climbing equipment, what to do and not to do as a lead climber, lead belay techniques and instruction, and coiling a rope for packing or carrying.
About Audrey: Audrey Sniezek has been climbing since 1992 and took herself from recreational climber to World Cup competitor as a representative of the US National Team for bouldering and sport climbing. She has had multiple female first ascents of routes such as Dr. Evil (5.14a), Extended Evil (5.14b), and Lost Horizons (5.14b) in North Bend, Washington. She holds a first ascent of Horseless Samarai (5.12d) in Vietnam.
PREREQUISITES: 5.9 top rope capability
INTRO TO TRADITIONAL CLIMBING with Sam Elias, presented by Black Diamond
Join Black Diamond athlete Sam Elias and get serious about upping your game. This course will focus on placing traditional protection for both leading and anchor building. Sam will coach you in gear selection/gear placement, racking systems, route selection, terrain assessment and cleaning. You will work through a progression, establishing solid judgment and understand the fundamental techniques and tools of lead climbing and gear placement. Curriculum will be presented with a balance of instruction and hands on practice.
PREREQUISITES: Some climbing experience
About Sam: Sam was near Detroit, Michigan, though he currently lives in Utah--and climbing is a driving passion for his life. Sam has been fortunate to feel an innate connection to its practice from the beginning, and he has structured his life so that he can be dedicated to it. Before climbing, Sam's life was consumed with alpine skiing and ski racing. When Sam was 16, he moved from Michigan to Salt Lake City to attend Rowmark Ski Racing Academy and was eventually recruited to ski race for the College of Idaho. Sam still skis frequently, both on and off piste. Sam was introduced to climbing through sport climbing, and it is his main pursuit. However, he enjoys many styles: traditional climbing, bouldering, deep water soloing and ice and winter mixed climbing/dry tooling. The quest to understand himself through climbing has deeply enriched his life, and for this he is eternally grateful. As a result, Sam feels a responsibility to continue to explore within the pursuit for as long as he is motivated and capable.
CRACK CLIMBING: MOVEMENT TECHNIQUES with Paul McSorley, presented by Scarpa
Fingers to elbows. Toes to knees. The most important skill for traditional climbing throughout the world is good crack climbing technique. Surprisingly, though Smith Rock is known as a sport climbing haven, there are also plenty of good cracks to climb! Join Scarpa athlete Paul McSorely, a crack climbing master, and significantly up your game. This clinic covers taping technique, fist, finger, foot and leg jams, and body positioning for maximum efficiency crack climbing.
About Paul: When Paul discovered climbing as a teenager on Ontario's Niagara Escarpment, he knew it was his calling... For the last 20 years he's been establishing new routes around the world in places like Patagonia, Baffin, Greenland, Africa, Norway and anywhere else there's sweet rock or ice to discover. These days, Paul lives in Squamish, BC where he enjoys crack climbing up the Chief and Paragliding from the summit.
PREREQUISITES: Some climbing experience
TOP ROPE, BELAY, & ANCHOR SYSTEMS with Jenny Abegg, presented by Outdoor Research
Heading outdoor climbing for the first time? Need to know how to set a top-rope anchor? Come learn the systems not covered in your indoor climbing classes. This clinic will cover basic top-rope anchors for a multitude of situations encountered in the outdoors. Our goal is for you to be comfortable setting a top-rope for yourself or your friends by the end of this clinic.
About Jenny: Raised in the Cascades and currently based out of Ol’ Blue, her trusty 1995 GMC Safari, Jenny is a climbing guide and a writer, exploring the topics of climbing, life, and the spaces between. She is published in many online and print sources, including Climbing Magazine, Alpinist, Adventure Journal, and Sidetracked. Jenny is also a PCGI certified Lead Guide and guides at Devils Tower, WY during the summers.
PREREQUISITES: some climbing experience
KNOWING THE ROPES, presented by the American Alpine Club
AAC Education has been taking controversial climbing topics head on for the last 6 years. The most controversial topics in climbing tend to generate fervor because misinformation, dogma, and rigid problem-solving often characterize what we think we know about some of the most foundational skills in American climbing. These knowledge gaps often lead to accidents, but it’s not always the novice climber that gets hurt. Intermediate and advanced climbers also fall victim to knowledge gaps.
The Know the Ropes sampler is a clinic for any climber that wants to get off the Mountain Project forum and have a real hands-on myth-busting, set-the-record-straight, interactive educational session on the following topics: Belaying in single pitch and multipitch; Rappelling; Cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting; Anchor building.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic is appropriate for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants have prior experience with the clinic topics, the clinic can be more hands-on. If not, the clinic still has informational value for those that might not yet be ready to practice in 5th class terrain.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, any anchor building equipment). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
IMPROVISED SELF-RESCUE, presented by the American Alpine Club
Self-Rescue curricula rarely focus on the scenarios that actually routinely happen. Our clinic will spend less time focusing on unlikely scenarios like incapacitated climbers or leader-rescue and more time focusing on the awkward scenarios that every climber eventually experiences: Rope gets stuck when you try to pull it; Rope Drag is so severe the leader can’t move; I dropped my belay device; My rope doesn’t make it to the next rap station.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic has value for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants to do not have traditional lead climbing experience or multi pitch climbing experience, the hands-on portions of the clinics will likely be limited to ground school.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Specific rescue tools (2 5mm nylon prussic loops or Sterling Hollowblocks, 2 48" slings, 2 7mm nylon cordellette, a mechanical assisted braking device, a tube style belay device with plaquette function like an ATC Guide or Reverso, 4 extra HMS style locking carabiners). Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, lead climbing and anchor building tools). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools, etc. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
EVENT HEADQUARTERS & ON-SITE CAMPING:
Join us at the Event and Camping grounds, located at 9025 NE Crooked River Drive, Terrebonne, OR. All camping is included in your General Weekend Pass ticket.
Parking passes may be purchased during registration for $5 per vehicle, however we are only issuing 160 total parking passes.. so carpooling is encouraged (and appreciated)! Meet up with other carpoolers, or offer up a ride to others, here.
Bring them. Got extras? Bring those, too. Extra beers for he or she with the most ridiculous number of chairs brought! (Put your name on them!)
A Saturday breakfast is included in your General Weekend Pass ticket. Sunday breakfast is included for those participating in the volunteer stewardship projects. Food trucks will be available on Saturday night. All other grubbing is on you to provide. Potable water will be available at the camp site.
We would love your help to make this event a success! If you would like to volunteer to help with setup the day before, parking and check-in the day of, and/or clean up and breakdown the day after, we'll have something special to offer you in thanks! Please contact Event Coordinator Sarah Wolfe at [email protected].
2017 Smith Rock Craggin' Classic is presented by: