AAC and Access Fund Set Sights on Capitol Hill

June 18, 2019, Golden, CO—The AAC and Access Fund (AF) are making another big ascent of Capitol Hill on September 18– 20, 2019 to discuss policy issues that impact the climbing community with those who hold the keys to our public lands. “Climb the Hill” event participants will receive training in Justice, Equity, Diversity, and Inclusion (JEDI) as they prepare to present a comprehensive and equitable narrative around access to our climbing areas. They will speak to lawmakers about how public lands issues impact not just climbers, but all people and communities.

“We head to D.C. this fall to continue the discussion with our elected officials to let them know that we want our public lands to be protected, and that the ‘we’ includes women, POC, adaptive, indigenous and queer climbers,” says Shelma Jun, Flash Foxy founder and AF board member. Together, the climbing community will also advocate for reforms to energy development and leasing, improvement of recreation access, the protection of recreation and conservation land designations, and action on climate change.

The two organizations are tapping a wide delegation of renowned professional climbers and advocates including Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell, Conrad Anker, Majka Burhardt, and leaders from Brown Girls Climb, Brothers of Climbing, Flash Foxy, Adaptive Climbing Group, Latino Outdoors, Natives Outdoors, American Mountain Guide Association, The Mountaineers, and many other local climbing organizations and companies.

“I am excited to attend Climb the Hill because I believe the nation’s public lands are best protected by a diverse representation. As a rock climber, a woman of color, and advocate, it's important to me to steward public lands because they have such a positive effect in my life and I want to pay it forward. Supporting, protecting, and addressing issues our public lands affects all communities and I am looking forward to attending this year and speak on behalf of Latino Outdoors, Access Fund, and American Alpine Club,” says Maricela Rosales of Latino Outdoors.

“Public lands are a much bigger issue right now than they have been in the past… protecting our public lands is a very easy way to minimize our harm, because when you open up public lands to exploitation, that is now no longer a pristine, wild place. You can’t take your grandkids there someday, because there’s a freaking open coal mine or something. I just went down a dark path, and now I’m sad,” said Alex Honnold in an interview with ROAM at last year’s AAC Annual Benefit dinner.

Together, these groups will tackle important issues and hopefully, keep Honnold and the rest of us from being sad. If you've got some policy chops or a background in JEDI issues, we could use you in D.C. With strong voices and a stubborn inability to surrender our public lands, we won't give up on the beautiful, wild places in which we find sanctuary. If you’re interested in participating, you can apply here. We look forward to hearing from you!

Learn more about Climb the Hill: www.climbthehill.org

AAC Climate Researchers: What are they up to now?

Seth Campbell and Kristin Schild are doing amazing work in the climate space. They are an important part of the AAC community and we’re lucky to have them in our corner. Seth is the director of the Juneau Icefield Research Program and a professor at the University of Maine. Kristin is a Postdoctoral Scientist at the University of Oregon. They happen to be married. Watch this video to find out what they’re up to now:

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Climbers for Climate—AAC Takes Action!

WE HEARD YOU! Climbers care deeply about the issue of climate change and are concerned about its impact on our climbing landscapes, communities and outdoor recreation economy. It is time that we address this direct threat to the climbing community and engage in coordinated action to mitigate the impacts of climate change. Learn more about the AAC’s stance. Add your voice to the fight!

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June 4, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC), the country’s oldest and largest climbing advocacy organization, represents an outdoor community whose ethos is inextricably linked to healthy mountain environments and ecosystems. It is time that the Club addresses climate change as a direct threat to the climbing community and engages in coordinated action to mitigate its impacts. Failure to act with urgency threatens important alpine environments which support the health and vitality of our community. As such, the AAC is committing to taking action on climate change.

Around the world, mountain regions are warming at roughly twice the pace of the global average. The American Alpine Club, the advocacy voice of more than 24,000 climbers, is alarmed about the adverse impacts of climate change on climbing, climber safety, mountain environments. A recent AAC climber survey showed 94% of AAC members agree that climate change poses a great deal of risk to the places we climb, hike, and ski; the vast majority of survey participants also believe that human activity is the driving cause of climate change.

“It is clear the team at the American Alpine Club and me that the voice of the climbing community is critically important in today’s environmental and social efforts,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “I’m proud to be part of a committed group of people who are advocating for the health and sustainability of mountain environments, the ecosystems that house them, and the planet as a whole. We are addressing the challenges of climate change and we hope that you’ll join us; together, we’re stronger.”

The AAC is taking immediate steps to measure, minimize, and offset the organization’s own carbon emissions, as well as to divert staff resources and financial support toward political advocacy, scientific research through grants, and developing resources for members to make sustainable choices as they plan trips and expeditions.

Recognizing that climbers, skiers, and mountaineers are credible witnesses to change in the mountains, the American Alpine Club is also soliciting personal observations of how climate change is impacting the climbing landscape as part of a new Climate Story Collection. We encourage you to join the Club and contribute your story, which will be used to influence local and national policy and advocacy reform: http://bit.ly/2KqDmj7

Will Congress Act to Help People Access the Outdoors?

Washington, DC: Congress is busy with a number of important issues, but our awe-inspiring public lands are still on their minds. Like us, many lawmakers and their staff love to get outside. Throughout the halls of Congress, you’ll find people who climb, ski, fish, kayak and backpack during their time off.

For plenty of climbers, guided trips and facilitated experiences provide important exposure to rugged terrain, vast wilderness areas and even easy-access crags for the first time. No doubt many of you have benefited from these kinds of opportunities through groups like NOLS, Outward Bound and private guides.

However, it’s not easy for these outdoor experience providers to make trips happen on our collectively-owned public lands. They are required to navigate an antiquated and complex federal system to get recreational permits from the Forest Service and Park Service in particular. Although agencies and Congress have made steps to remedy these problems, we’re still dealing with unnecessary red tape.

There’s good news, however: today, Senator Martin Heinrich (D-NM) and Senator Shelley Moore Capito (R-WV) introduced the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation Act (SOAR Act) to increase recreational access to America's public lands. This legislation would improve the outfitter and guide permitting systems and positively impact small businesses, non-profit outdoor leadership organizations, university recreation programs, and volunteer-based clubs, including the AAC.

The SOAR Act still has a ways to go to become law, but we’re hopeful that Congress will pass this no-brainer, bipartisan legislation; a win for all of us! When the opportunity strikes, we’ll send out an action alert so that you can easily write your member of Congress and tell them to get on board. Until then, reach out to your policy team for more ways to get involved. #SOARfortheOutdoors

Maria Millard Povec: [email protected]

Taylor Luneau: [email protected]

Join AAC at the Summer '19 OR Show

Coming to Outdoor Retailer? Or just live in the Front Range and want to join the fun? 

During the Snow Show, we’ll be in the “High Altitude Den”, booth 32083-UL. Come by for AAC goodies, to have your burning questions about the Club answered by staff, or just to say hi!

Our education team will be delivering Know the Ropes workshops and facilitating Universal Belay Card certifications. This year we are also thrilled to have artist Lynn Mandzuik create a LIVE painting over the course of the first two days of OR. The resulting piece will be raffled off during the “Afternoon Buzz” on Wednesday, June 19 at 3pm.

Battle of the Bands
Tuesday June 18, Your Mom’s House, 8pm: 
This legendary event is back! Join us for a night of live music featuring bands from the Outdoor Industry—including Black Diamond, Cascade Designs, La Sportiva and more. Tickets are $5 in advance, available online or at our booth, or $10 at the door.

POW & AAC Party at the newly opened SPOT Bouldering Gym in Denver
Wednesday, June 19
5:00pm - 10pm
The Spot
1235 Delaware Street
Denver CO 80204
$10 cover includes day pass to climb, beer and access to food trucks. This event with highlight the work that AAC and POW are going together to fight climate change. Tickets at the door. All proceeds benefit AAC and POW.

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Joe Neguse Meets the Climbing Community: Public Lands & Climate Change Focus of Conversation

April 20, 2019. Estes Park, CO.

Leading up to Earth Day, Congressman Joe Neguse made the trek to Estes Park to participate in a stewardship event at the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center in Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP). Neguse represents Colorado's second congressional district which includes famous climbing destinations like the RMNP, Eldorado Canyon State Park and Boulder Canyon, to name a few. It's no wonder then that the climbing community makes up a significant portion of the Congressman’s constituency. Of the 23,000 Outdoor Alliance members that live in Colorado, 8,000 of them live within the District 2 boundaries alone. Suffice to say, Congressman Neguse, or Joe as he told me to call him, represents a lot of us climbers, paddlers, mountain bikers and skiers here in the Front Range

Neguse is in his freshman year in Congress and he's already introduced 10 pieces of legislation, most of it bipartisan, which is more than any other first year congressman or congresswoman. The Colorado Outdoor Recreation & Economy (CORE) Act in particular is something that the climbing community can get behind. If passed, it would protect 400,000 acres of land throughout Colorado and hundreds of climbing routes, mountaineering objectives and ski descents state wide. So, when Neguse was planning to do a stewardship project and town hall address, the climbing community jumped on the opportunity to catch up with him. A team from the AAC and the Access Fund spent the morning seeding and mulching in the Park and then got time with Neguse afterwards, to speak about the climbing and outdoors community. The human-powered representatives were:

• Me, Taylor Luneau, Policy Manager, American Alpine Club

• Jamie Logan, American Alpine Club Board member and first ascensionist

• Tom Hornbein and his wife, Kathy, First ascent of the West Ridge of Everest

• Chris Schulte, Pro Climber

• Quinn Brett, NPS Climbing Ranger and public speaker

• Hilary Harris, Evo rock climbing gym owner

• Aaron Clark, Policy Director, International Mountain Bike Association

• Dustin Dyer, Kent Mountain Adventure Company, Owner

• Chris Winter, Executive Director, Access Fund

• Erik Murdock, Policy Director, Access Fund

The conversation focused on public lands, the outdoor recreation economy, recreation access and infrastructure, conservation funding, and climate change. When prompted about the CORE Act, Neguse replied, "we feel like the wind is at our back and we've got a real shot at getting this bill through the House of Representatives and, hopefully, put the pressure on the folks in the upper chamber to get this thing done, and that's exciting." Neguse pointed out how important it was to hear from the climbing community, which gives he and his staff a more complete understanding of the impact of the bill. When asked how the climbing community can advocate for the CORE Act, Neguse pointed to three things:

Keep up the groundswell of grassroots momentum around the CORE Act.
Writing letters to the editor for example, provide the public and their elected leaders salient points on how legislation of this sort is good for the next generation of climbers.

Share your ideas!
There are lots of opportunities that the legislature could pursue and they want to hear from you on which to prioritize. Write or call your elected leaders.

Keep up the activism.
The work of the outdoor community is part of the solution to forestalling attacks to nationally iconic places like our monuments, forests and parks. Keep at it!

Jamie Logan prepping the soils in RMNP for seeding and mulching

Neguse speaks with RMNP Administrators

Climbers meeting with Neguse over snacks in Estes Park, CO

Myself with Congressman Neguse

I was especially encouraged by Neguse’s willingness to listen; his engagement and openness with the climbing community and his receptivity to our suggestions. Neguse even offered to come climbing with us soon! Neguse pointed out the important role that the outdoor community plays in advocating for environmental legislation and in tackling the major issues of our era such as climate change. Neguse didn’t need to be prompted on the issue stating, “our work on climate change will be the defining work that we do in the coming years.”

Hearing all of this, Tom Hornbein notably stated "you're facing your own Everest right now - so go for it!"

We will Tom.

Taylor Luneau,
AAC Policy Manager

A big thanks is owed to Erik Murdoch of Access Fund for his leadership in pulling together this lunch meeting, engaging the Congressman’s office and getting all of these awesome climbers at the table. Thanks Erik!

2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees Announced

We’re stoked to celebrate our 2019 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Inductees! These are folks who have had a significant impact on climbing history through contributions in mountain culture, environmental responsibility, and community. 

Our first inductee is climber, conservationist and author Laura Waterman, who founded The Waterman Fund grants program to support trail work, stewardship, education, and research. She’s pictured above with her late husband, Guy, in 1970. Photo: Waterman Collection.

Our next inductee is Ken Yager, a climbing guide and founder of the Yosemite Climbing Association. In 2004, he started Facelift, a non-profit responsible for removing over 1 million pounds of garbage from the park. The event continues to be the largest volunteer cleanup in park history. Photo, above, by Michael Brown.

Finally, we’re honored to present the H. Adams Carter Literary Award to Kelly Cordes. Kelly has made it his mission to maximize outdoor time. This focus strongly influences his climbing, which includes new alpine-style routes in Alaska, Peru, Patagonia and Pakistan. He’s also been known to put pen to paper, writing many climbing articles, serving as longtime editor of the AAJ, and authoring the book, “The Tower: A Chronicle of Climbing and Controversy on Cerro Torre.” Photo, below, by Kevin Cooper.

We’ll be officially inducting these amazing individuals into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence at our Excellence in Climbing Celebration in Golden, CO on June 1—get your tickets!

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Colorado Outdoor Recreation & Economy (CORE) Act: The bill that Could protect 400,000 acres of public land in Colorado

You can find more interactive mapping options here in the GMUG National Forests Planning Revision GIS database created by the Outdoor Alliance GIS Lab.

The Colorado Outdoor Recreation & Economy (CORE) Act, H.R. 823 was recently introduced by Colorado U.S. Senator Michael Bennet (D-CO) and U.S. Congressman Joe Neguse (D-CO-02). The CORE Act “protects approximately 400,000 acres of public land in Colorado, establishing new wilderness areas and safeguarding existing outdoor recreation opportunities to boost the economy for future generations. Of the land protected, about 73,000 acres are new wilderness areas, and nearly 80,000 acres are new recreation and conservation management areas that preserve existing outdoor uses such as hiking and mountain biking” [1]

This legislative package was created by Coloradans though over a decade of collaborative effort and a rigorous process of compromise. As such, the bill has broad support from the outdoor recreation community, conservation groups and local businesses. For instance, the Access Fund has been involved in the vetting of the bills components over the past decade. The CORE Act also tactfully designates Wilderness while using other designations where more appropriate. Louis Geltman, Policy Director at the Outdoor Alliance points out the uniqueness of the strategy stating, “This approach is essential…” and, “should be considered a model for other protective designation efforts around the country.”

 The AAC strongly supports the protections embodied in the CORE Act. The Bill conserves outstanding outdoor recreation opportunities, safeguards water resources, preserves key public lands and complements the values associated with our state lands. This legislation places a high value on recreation and conservation, and supports the $28.0 Billion outdoor recreation economy in Colorado and the 229,000 jobs associated with it. Coloradan’s largely agree too. According to the 9th annual Conservation in the West Poll, 73% of Coloradans say “the ability to live near, recreate on, and enjoy public lands like national forests, parks, or trails was a significant reason they live in the West.”[2] The proximity to amazing cragging, big alpine objectives and steep backcountry ski terrain was certainly a driving factor in my fiancé and I’s relocation to Colorado last October. Public lands are the infrastructure for Colorado outdoor recreation and are a critical component to the state’s economic well-being. The CORE Act will only enhance those recreational resources which Coloradan’s value.

Over the past year, the AAC advocated alongside our partners at the Outdoor Alliance, for the passage of the Public Lands Package, which was recently signed into law. Of the 2.5 million acres of public lands across the country that received lasting protections in that bill, only a few hundred acres were in Colorado. The CORE Act gives Congress a second chance to take care of those overlooked opportunities.

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The CORE Act unites and improves four previously introduced bills:

1.     Continental Divide Recreation, Wilderness, and Camp Hale Legacy Act

• Designates 100,000 acres of wilderness, recreation, and conservation in the White River National Forest along the Colorado Continental Divide.

• Designates the first ever National Historic Landscape around Camp Hale to preserve and promote the Army’s 10th mountain division’s legacy. 

2.     San Juan Wilderness Act

• Provides protections for nearly 61,000 acres of land in the heart of the San Juan Mountains in Southwest, CO including Mount Sneffels and Wilson Peak.

• The bill designates 31,000 acres of Wilderness, 21,000+ acres of special management and 6,500+ acres of mineral withdrawal.

3.     Thompson Divide Withdrawal and Protection Act

• Withdraws approximately 200,000 acres from future oil and gas development.

• Creates a program to lease excess methane from nearby coal mines to address climate change.

4.     Curecanti National Recreation Area Boundary Establishment Act

• Establishes the boundary for the Curecanti National Recreation Area.

• Improves coordination among land management agencies.

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Climbing and Skiing resources that would be protected:

A preliminary analysis conducted by the Outdoor Alliance GIS lab has identified over 200 climbing routes spanning terrain from the crags at Camp Hale to alpine rock routes in the 10 Mile Range. In the San Juans, the Sheep Mountain Special Management Area conserves backcountry ski terrain near Lizard Head Pass while the “Liberty Bell and Whitehouse Wilderness additions protect world class hiking and climbing opportunities in the iconic Mt. Sneffels range.”[3] In the Continental Divide bill, the Tenmile Wilderness and Recreation Management Areas provide opportunities for long ridgeline technical traverses and challenging backcountry ski terrain. Check out the interactive website below to explore the crags and mountains that would be protected by this legislation:

Click on image above to access and interactive map prepared by the Outdoor Alliance GIS Lab. 2017.

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How We Can Help Move The CORE Act Forward:

1.     Cultivate Bipartisan Support for the Bill

While the CORE Act has received support from Colorado Democrats, opposition was expressed by some Republican members at a recent US House Natural Resources Committee hearing. Concern was raised that some Coloradans, “such as the Garfield County’s commissioners, who oppose the permanent withdrawal of oil and gas leasing in the Thompson Divide area west of Carbondale – were not being heard.”[4] A number of other groups raised opposition to the bill “due to limits it posed on certain recreational and work activities, such as motorized vehicle use.”[5] Because wilderness designations require an act of Congress to create, it is critical to build bi-partisan support for this legislation if it is to go anywhere. 

2.     Participate in the GMUG Forest Planning Process 

Chris French, Acting Deputy Chief of The US Forest Service provided testimony during the hearing and pointed out that the USFS supports the bill where it is consistent with the applicable Forest Plans and have broad based local support. This is a relatively expected response as the Forest Plan, which acts similarly to zoning for the forest, partially governs the decision making within the unit. So, where wilderness is proposed by the Forest Plan and aligns with the CORE Act designations, the Forest Service will support the proposal. This is an important reminder to participate in the GMUG Forest planning process and to let your local land managers hear your opinion about wilderness designations in Colorado.  The GMUG is currently being update and your opinion is needed!

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A Closer Look At The CORE Act Designations:

National Historic Landscape: 28,700 acres

• Camp Hale was the former base of the U.S. Army 10th Mountain Division and would receive the first national historic landscape designation in the country. The Camp was dedicated to training military climbers, skiers and mountaineers for combat during WWII and had a massive impact on shaping the climbing and skiing community. This designation would instruct the responsible agency to manage the area for its historical purposes including performing restoration and enhancement of its resources.

 Special Management Area: 50,200 acres

• Special management areas are “federal public lands designated by Congress for a specific use or uses. Typically, special management legislation is contained in individual wilderness acts and directs the responsible agency to manage the area in accordance with the congressionally designated purposes. Included among the special management areas are backcountry areas, reserves, conservation areas, wildlife areas, fish management areas and national recreation areas.” [6]

 National Recreation Area: 43,000 acres

• This designation generally includes areas that have outstanding combinations of outdoor recreation opportunities, aesthetic attractions, and proximity to potential users. While not as restrictive as wilderness, it is considerably less resource-exploitive than traditional multiple-use designations and requires the agency to manage the land to serve its recreational use.[7]

 Mineral Withdrawal: 206,600 acres

• A mineral withdrawal refers to a statute, executive order, or administrative order that changes the designation of a parcel of federal land from “available” to “unavailable” for location, settlement, selection, filing, entry or disposal, under the mineral or non-mineral public-land laws.[8] This designation closes an area to new mining claims and requires existing claims to be demonstrated as valid before beginning mining activities.

 Wilderness: 73,000 acres

• An area of Wilderness is defined as “an area of undeveloped federal land retaining its primeval character and influence, without permanent improvements or human habituation, which is protected and managed so as to preserve its natural conditions…”[9] This is the most stringent preservation mechanism on Federal public lands.

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Citations:

[1] Geltman, Louis. Outdoor Alliance Testimony Re: Legislative hearing on H.R. 823, the “Colorado Outdoor Recreation and Economy Act.” April 2, 2019. Available here.

[2] Dutta, Deepan. “Colorado Outdoor Recreation & Economy (CORE) Act gets day in Congress, supporters and opponents testify about act’s merits” Post Independent. April 6, 2019. Available here.

[3] Dutta, 2019.

[4] 8 Pub. Land L. Rev. 61 (1987)

[5] Coggins et. al. “Federal Public Land and Resources Law.” 7th edition. Foundation Press. 2014.

[6] Coggins et. al.

[7] The Wilderness Act. Pub.L. 88-577. 1964.

[8] CORE Act summary. Available here.

[9] State of the Rockies Project. “Conservation in the West Poll.” January 31, 2019.

US Senate holds Committee Hearing to improve Outdoor Recreation - AAC Wants Your Suggestions

The US Senate Committee on Energy and Natural Resources recently held a hearing to “Examine Opportunities to Improve Access, Infrastructure, and Permitting for Outdoor Recreation."

Led by Chairman Lisa Murkowski (R-AK) and Ranking Member Joe Manchin (D-WV), lawmakers interviewed a panel of witnesses to identify particular challenges facing outdoor recreation. Among the many topics discussed were:

- Outfitter / Guide permitting issues

- Competing land designations (motorized vs. non-)

- Transitioning from extractive economies to ones based on outdoor recreation

- Access to Public Lands

- Conservation Funding

- Science driven, adaptive management

You can find the archived video of the hearing webcast here (note: video doesn’t start until min 12)

Thomas O'Keefe of American Whitewater, an AAC partner organization at the Outdoor Alliance, was a key witness in the hearing. O'keefe tactfully drew attention to, among other things, outfitter and guide permitting issues, posing one anecdote that it was easier for a paddling guide to bring clients to Costa Rica than the Mt. Hood National Forest in his own backyard. The AAC submitted testimony to Senate ENR - read it here.

The American Alpine Club would really value hearing your stories and opinions on these subjects. Do you have a story to share about a challenging permitting system? Do you know about infrastructure issues in your local National Park or federal public land that have gone unattended? Are there landlocked federal lands that you would like to climb or ski on but can't due to private lands surrounding the property? Or are there other private land issues that you think states or the federal government should address? Please follow the link below and share your story with us!

Thank you again for your time and for sharing your insight!

Taylor Luneau
AAC, Policy Manager

Announcing: our 2019 Research Grants!

We're proud to announce our 2019 Research Grant recipients! This year, we're awarding more than $16,000 to researchers pursuing scientific endeavors in the mountains.

From studying the effects of glacier tourism on the Juneau Icefield to building a collaborative climbing management strategy in Ten Sleep, the projects our researchers are embarking on are going to make positive change.

These grants are powered by National Renewable Energy Laboratory and Ridgeline Venture Law and supported by Fourpoints Bar and KAVU. 

Photo courtesy of 2018 Research Grant Recipient Martí March Salas, who studied the effects of climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation.

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March 26, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2019 Research Grants, powered by the National Renewable Energy Lab and Ridgeline Venture Law, with support from Four Points, Kavu, and the following endowments: Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund. This year, the Club is awarding more than $16,000 to researchers pursuing scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world.

“We are proud to support these valuable research projects,” said AAC Policy Manager Taylor Luneau. “The work that young climber scientists are doing in the mountains reveal important findings on many aspects of climbing such as a changing climate and stewardship and land management strategies for healthy and resilient ecosystems. Ultimately, we hope this research can be used to inform climate and land use legislation to the benefit of all climbers and outdoor recreationists.”

Megan Behnke - $1,500

Smoky ice: How have alpine and glacier tourism impacted Juneau Icefield biogeochemistry?

Megan Behnke is a Ph.D. student in Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences at Florida State University. She plans to travel to the Juneau Icefield, in coastal Southeast Alaska, to study the impact of tourism on the local icefield-to-ocean ecosystem.

Scott Braddock - $1,500

Climate impacts on the glaciers and wildlife of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, Chile

Scott Braddock is a Ph.D. student in Earth and Climate Sciences at the University of Maine. His research focuses on identifying the dominant mechanism of glacier acceleration in the Southern Patagonia Icefield, and retreat impacts on glacier stability and biodiversity in Bernard O’Higgins National Park. 

Jesse Bryant - $1,500

A policy science inquiry into the cultural conflict in Ten Sleep, WY

Jesse Bryant is a Masters student in Environmental Management at Yale. His research aims to systematically chart a comprehensive picture of the resource questions in Ten Sleep by employing an interdisciplinary multi-method approach called the policy science framework. Ultimately, this study may act as a guide for national climbing advocacy groups and local groups in Ten Sleep to clarify the source of apparent “problems,” discover common interests with locals, and build a more collaborative climbing management strategy in Ten Sleep Canyon.

Donovan Dennis - $1,270

Mountain stability in a warming world: investigating environmental controls on frost weathering in cold regions

Donovan Dennis is a Ph.D. student in Earth Science at the GFZ German Research Centre for Geosciences in Potsdam, Germany. Dennis’ research will focus on investigating the magnitude of weathering on recently exposed (de-glaciated) bedrock experiencing different climate conditions. The Juneau Icefield (JI) is an ideal setting to test these effects, as it has an abundance of recently exposed bedrock and, additionally, a strong climate gradient across the east-west axis of the icefield. The proposed work on the JI will be carried out in collaboration with the Juneau Icefield Research Program (JIRP).

Juliann Allison - $1,157

The role of climbers' identities, ethics and activism in conserving and preserving sandstone climbing areas

Juliann Allison is an Associate Professor and Department Chair of the University of California, Riverside, Gender & Sexuality Studies department. Her research will focus on examining climbers’ identities as sources of environmental ethics, and climbing practices that are most likely to motivate their participation in individual and organized conservation programs to support the long-term ecological viability of sandstone climbing areas.

Georgia Harrison - $1,300

Impact of rock-climbing disturbance and microhabitat characteristics on cliff-face vegetation communities of the Linville Gorge Wilderness Area

Georgia Harrison is a Master’s student in Biology at Appalachian State University. Her team looks to determine the relative influence of rock-climbing activity, cliff-face microtopography, and microclimate on the cliff-face vegetation communities of the Linville Gorge Wilderness Area (LGWA). In addition to improving current plant inventory records, their study will provide land managers with information regarding the potential impacts of recreational rock climbing on cliff-face plant communities in the LGWA.

Dara Miles - $683

Golden eagle nest monitoring in Boulder Canyon rock climbing areas (in collaboration with the National Forest Service)

Dara Miles is the Director of the Boulder Climbing Community’s (BCC) Eagle Monitoring Program. In collaboration with the National Forest Service, BCC works with local climber-volunteers to monitor Golden Eagle nests in Boulder Canyon, CO. This grant will fund additional equipment to assist volunteers and the Forest Service in their ongoing monitoring of the eagles and their habitats in a popular climbing area.

Wade Parker - $1,500

A floristic survey of Buckeye Knob bouldering area: inventory and climber education

Wade Parker is the Vice President of the Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC), a Local Climbing Organization based in Raleigh, NC. The CCC, working with two local cliff ecologists and climbers, will conduct a floristic inventory at the Buckeye Knob bouldering area in Watauga County, NC. This information will be used to educate all visitors and foster greater stewardship in support of a healthy, resilient, local ecosystem.

Jeffrey Perala-Dewey - $1,500

Climbing with contaminants: quantifying atmospheric deposition of polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) into the snowpack of Utah's Wasatch Mountains

Jeffrey Perala-Dewey is a Ph.D. student in the Department of Chemistry and Biochemistry at Utah State University. This study will benchmark the level of PAH deposition into the Wasatch Range. Determination of both the magnitude of alpine contamination as well as the type of contaminants found in the Wasatch Range will provide a valuable starting point for further research in the region. Results will indicate whether these contaminations may be ecologically significant during spring snow melt.

Brianna Rick - $1,500

Rock glaciers as climate resilient cold-water reservoirs in alpine basins

Brianna Rick is a Ph.D. student in Geosciences at Colorado State University. Her research focuses on quantifying the volume of ice within the Lake Agnes rock glacier in Colorado, a permafrost feature containing internal ice layers more resilient to climate change. This research will aid in understanding current and potential future stream flow contributions of rock glaciers.

Wilmer Esteban Sanchez Rodriguez - $1,350

Impact of the black carbon on the melting of Vallunaraju Glacier in the Cordillera Blanca

Wilmer Esteban Sanchez Rodriguez is a researcher working with the American Climbers Science Program in Peru. Their work with this project proposes to estimate the melting of the Vallunaraju Glacier in the Cordillera Blanca as a result of black carbon particle distribution and solar radiation across the glacier.

Anais Zimmer - $1,430

Future of periglacial landscape: alpine ecosystems and deglaciation in the tropical Andes and French Alps

Anais Zimmer is a Ph.D. student at the Department of Geography and Environment at the University of Texas at Austin. The long-term goal of this project is to examine the complex reciprocity between climate, high alpine ecosystems, and human systems, through a comprehensive reconstruction of the dynamics of communities and of species assemblages after glacial retreat. Her project will focus equally on ecological processes and human systems to sustain livelihood activities and downstream services.

Learn more about the AAC Research Grants: americanalpineclub.org/research-grants

AAC Lodging Reservations Now Open

Reservations for the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch, and the campgrounds in Rumney, the New River Gorge, and the Gunks are now open for the 2019 season! Book a bunk or a tent site and start planning those summer trips.
 

2019 Jones Grant & Live Like Liz Winners Announced

Photo courtesy Shawna Paoli.

We're thrilled to announce the 2nd Annual Jones Snowboards BC Adventure Grant and Live Like Liz Award winners!

The 2019 BC Adventure Grant winner is Graeme Greenwood of Bozeman, MT. Graeme and a partner will attempt a unique traverse and peak descent in the Greater Yellowstone region. The 2019 Live Like Liz Grant winner is Mt. Baker local Shawna Paoli. Shawna and partners will attempt a splitboard powered circumnavigation of Mt Baker.

Huge thanks to all that applied! We were blown away by the quality of proposals. Inspired? Our Live Your Dream grant is still open.

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Congrats to our 2019 McNeill-Nott Award Winners!

Rebecca Ross. Photo courtesy Rebecca Ross.

Lindsey Hamm. Photo by Dan Gambino.

Congratulations to our 2019 McNeill-Nott awardees, Rebecca Ross and Lindsey Hamm! This grant, supported by Mountain Hardwear, honors Sue Nott and her partner Karen McNeill by funding amateur climbers exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small and lightweight teams.

Rebecca and her team plan to summit the three highest peaks in Mongolia, located specifically in the Mongol Altai Range, including Khuiten Peak (4,374m). the highest point in Mongolia. The Altai Tavan Bogd National Park, where these three peaks are accessed, is pristine with a variety of interesting flora and fauna. Rebecca chose these particular peaks because of its remoteness, untouched beauty, and strong cultural presence with the Mongolian Nomadic Eagle Hunters.

Lindsey and her team will travel to Zanskar, India in search of big wall style climbing and maybe some mixed climbing routes. Last year, weather prevented her from completing her full objective in the region, and she remains amped to explore and learn even more about the local, culture, community, and climbing opportunities.

Inspired? Find out more about our grants.

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AAC Celebrates International Women's Day

The AAC wouldn’t be the Club we are today without the work of womxn of all walks of life. Today, this month, and year-round, we celebrate the accomplishments—both on and off the climbing wall—of female and non-binary climbers, mountaineers, and advocates. Thank you all for being here.

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HOW DOES THE AAC SUPPORT FEMALE CLIMBERS?

• We're running women's specific clinics at every 2018 Craggin' Classic event.

• We're featuring women on the cover of all three of our publications.

• We're celebrating women in positions of leadership in the organization.

• We're running women's-specific grants, like the Live Like Liz Grant and McNeill-Knott Award.

• We're featuring ascents by women in our Cutting Edge podcast.

• We supported the Sexual Harassment in Climbing Survey.

• We support women's initiatives by partnering with groups like Brown Girls Climb, Outdoor Women's Alliance, and FlashFoxy.

• We're working a a chapter-by-chapter level to support other local women's events and initiatives.

• The American Alpine Journal is working toward telling more women's stories this year.

• We're actively working to have an even gender split in our member base that reflects the demographics of the climbing community.

• Do you have ideas? Aspects of all this that we could be doing better? Contact us! Your feedback and input inspires us to create change, and we’re grateful for all of it.

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House Passes Historic Lands Package

Celebratory dance on the Petit Grepon, Rocky Mountain National Park, CO. Photo Credit: Mickey Hardt.

The American Alpine Club is psyched to share that the Natural Resource Management Act (S.47) just passed the House in a landslide vote of 363 to 62! The historic lands package passed the Senate on February 12 by a margin of 92 to 8 and is now headed to the Presidents desk where it can be signed into law. This major victory for the climbing and outdoor recreation community includes legislation like the permanent reauthorization of the Land and Water Conservation Fund, an important conservation funding mechanism that supports climbing areas accross the country. The bipartisan package also includes important lands bills such as:

•  The Emery County Public Lands Management Act

• Methow Valley Mineral Withdrawal

• Emigrant Crevice Withdrawal – Yellowstone Gateway Protection Act

• Mountains to Sound Greenway National Heritage Area Act

• Oregon Wildlands Act

• Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks Conservation

• The California Desert Protection and Recreation Act

• Every Kid Outdoors

• 21st Century Service Corps Act

This is a major win for the outdoor recreation community, which has invested significant time and energy into advocating the package’s support with lawmakers. The American Alpine Club is proud to have played a supporting role in getting the bill through Congress. None of this would have been possible without your support! Hundreds of you took the time to let your Representatives and Senators know that this package of bills is important, and your voice was heard.

We’ll share more in the coming weeks as the package makes its way over to the final stop, the President’s desk. In the meantime, it would mean a lot if you let your lawmakers know you’re psyched about the decisions they made and shared a little stoke for their effort. We’ve made it easy for you to share a thank you and encourage Congress to keep supporting public lands in future efforts. Please take a minute to thank Congress for their support of the Natural Resource Management Act!

UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals Draws Record-Breaking Crowds

Photo: Ben Nelson of Huck Adventures

On its inaugural stage in downtown Denver, CO, the 2019 UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals broke international records as the largest-ever audience for a World Cup Ice Climbing event and received a record number of online views with hundreds of thousands more tuning in to watch the competition’s live stream.

The two-day World Cup Ice Climbing Finals held in Civic Center Park, February 23 - 24, recorded a live crowd of more than 25,000, making the Denver World Cup Finals not only the most watched World Cup Ice Climbing event in the Tour’s history, but also one of the most well-spectated climbing events of all time.

Hosted and produced by the American Alpine Club, the event’s attendance more than doubled the original expectations. American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers, had never witnessed such a massive audience for a climbing event: “We exceeded our attendance goals for the full weekend before the end of the first day. People were blown away by the athleticism and intensity of the competition — I have no doubt many new ice climbers were created this weekend.”

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February 25, 2019, Golden, CO—On its inaugural stage in downtown Denver, CO, the 2019 UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals broke international records as the largest-ever audience for a World Cup Ice Climbing event and received a record number of online views with hundreds of thousands more tuning in to watch the competition’s live stream.

The two-day World Cup Ice Climbing Finals held in Civic Center Park, February 23 - 24, recorded a live crowd of more than 25,000, making the Denver World Cup Finals not only the most watched World Cup Ice Climbing event in the Tour’s history, but also one of the most well-spectated climbing events of all time.

Hosted and produced by the American Alpine Club, the event’s attendance more than doubled the original expectations. American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers, had never witnessed such a massive audience for a climbing event: “We exceeded our attendance goals for the full weekend before the end of the first day. People were blown away by the athleticism and intensity of the competition — I have no doubt many new ice climbers were created this weekend.”

Located in Denver’s historic Civic Center Park, the competition was hosted in an urban setting that provided a more diverse audience in comparison to the Tour’s regular stops in mountain towns. Sunday evening’s Lead Finals had an electric atmosphere as just two men topped out on the 60-ft structure: 21-year-old Yannick Glatthard of Switzerland and Nikolai Kuzovlev of Russia. Glatthard, dubbed ‘Swiss Air’ for his flying, daring style, topped out 11 seconds faster than Kuzovlev, claiming the Gold with a dramatic victory leap off the top of the structure in front of an enthralled crowd. The women’s lead final left no less exhilaration with Maria Tolokonina of Russia nudging out Woonseon Shin of South Korea by a mere touch of the eleventh (and final) hold.

The big story for Saturday evening’s Speed Finals was Canada’s David Bouffard, who became the first North American to claim a World Cup medal with silver. Nikolai Kuzovlev of Russia took Gold with a blistering fast climb of 6.48 seconds. Maria Tolokonina of Russia also took Gold in the Women’s Speed Final in a big weekend medal sweep.

For complete results and World Cup Tour recap, please visit: https://www.theuiaa.org/ice-climbing/

COMPETITION PHOTOS: http://bit.ly/2BSFQBL 

UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals Begin Today in Denver

We’re stoked to be kicking off the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Finals here in Denver today (Friday, Feb. 22)!

The new North American tour stop will serve as the 2018/2019 World Cup Ice Climbing Finals in which over 100 athletes from 18 countries around the world will compete for the overall World Cup in both Lead and Speed categories.

The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado. The weekend event is being held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and is free to the public. Come for the climbing, stay for the Barbagazi Winter Festival featuring games & activities for everyone: Ice Maze, Obstacle Course, Fat Bike Course, Axe Throwing, Live Music, Ice Bar, Food Trucks, Fire Pits and more!

Come down to Denver and join the fun if you can'; the event is totally FREE! If you can’t make it, you can still stay in the loop by watching the competition live.

Summer Internships with the AAC Policy Team

Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park, CA. Photo Credit: Taylor Luneau

American Alpine Club: Policy Internship, Summer 2019

Since its founding in 1902, the American Alpine Club (AAC) has been a force in helping safeguard our country’s wild landscapes and natural treasures. Working alongside our members and partners, we focus on critical issues facing climbers and outdoor recreation nationally, such as keeping public lands pristine, wild, and open to human-powered recreation. All of us at the AAC find great joy and meaning in climbing, and we are committed to a thriving outdoor community sustained by healthy mountain and climbing landscapes for generations to come.

For the Summer of 2019, the AAC Policy and Advocacy Department will be welcoming 2 Policy Interns to the team. Policy Interns will learn from AAC staff and contribute to efforts on public land protections and safeguarding fragile mountain climbing environments.

Essential Duties and Internship Responsibilities:

The Policy Interns will work with the Policy & Advocacy Director and the Policy Manager to advance the AAC’s policy priorities. This internship will be dynamic, fast-paced and responsive to changing legislative approaches and deadlines. Interns will have the opportunity to support staff work on:

• Drafting policy position papers and comment letters.

• Researching policy topics and communicating issues to the climbing community in a clear and compelling way.

• Developing an advocacy toolkit and engaging AAC chapters in federal, state and local policy issues.

• Assisting in website maintenance, press releases and social media efforts.

• Support in organizing policy/conservation events.

Policy Intern I: Public Lands Specialist

The AAC believes that the future of outdoor recreation and climbing specifically, rely on the conservation of our public lands. However, industry leaders and senior administration officials have increased efforts to upset balanced land management decisions and favor natural resource extraction. The AAC represents the interests of our 23,000 members, as well as more than 9 million Americans who participate in climbing annually, and believe in the conservation of our national parks, forests, monuments and refuges.

Public Land Legislation Tracking:

• The Public Lands Intern will help the Policy and Advocacy Department identify and support pro-public lands legislation by tracking important policies and developing action alerts for the climbing community.

• Cooperate with Climate Intern (see below) to add Legislation Tracking page to website and update periodically throughout the summer.

• Identify important state and federal legislation for the AAC Policy team to support.

Preparing Public Comment:

• Public Lands Intern will assist Policy Director and Manager in the preparation of public comment on agency actions which affect the climbing community. Public comment may occur on National Forest Plan revisions, Environmental Impact Statements, or in agency rulemaking processes.

Policy Intern II: Climate Change Specialist

As climbers, skiers and mountaineers, we are intimately familiar with the mountain landscapes of the world. From Denali to Mt. Washington, our community has climbed the classic routes and skied the dream lines. In our travels, many of us have witnessed change. Now, discussions of last ascents and descents are a topic of serious concern. The potential impacts of a changing climate on our lives are vast. Not only do we recreate in these mountain environments, but for many of us, our livelihoods also depend on them. The outdoor recreation economy is a force in the United States, but much of it relies on the preservation of public lands and healthy mountain ecosystems. The AAC is concerned that a changing climate will threaten both of these important resources.

Climate Legislation Tracking:

• The Climate Intern will help the Policy and Advocacy Department identify and support pro-climate legislation by tracking important policies and developing action alerts for the climbing community.

• Partner with Public Lands Intern to add Legislation Tracking page to website and update periodically throughout the summer.

Climate Story Collection:

The American Alpine Club has a long legacy of scientific pursuit and archiving climbing stories in our library. We wish to continue this by collecting stories on climate and changing mountain environments in popular climbing areas. Based on responses and working with our committees, the AAC will develop research into climbing areas of most concern. Climate Policy Intern will assist Library and Policy Staff with the development, categorization, and implementation of this project.

Qualifications:

We seek interns with drive and ambition who are interested in supporting the mission, vision, and brand of the American Alpine Club. We expect a self-motivated starter with a sense of humor and the ability to take guidance from AAC staff and run with it. Women, minorities, individuals with disabilities and veterans are strongly encouraged to apply. Candidates should possess:

• Bachelor’s Degree.

• Basic knowledge of federal, state and local public lands policy and/or climate science and policy.

• Strong research and writing ability.

• Excellent communication and organizational skills, with meticulous attention to detail.

• Strong ability to work in a close team environment.

• Self-motivated with the ability to set priorities and manage multiple tasks under minimal supervision in effective and efficient manner.

• Experience in the outdoor industry.

• GIS experience appreciated

Location

The AAC is headquartered at the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, Colorado. We will consider a remote candidate for the internship.

Compensation

AAC internships are unpaid; university credit may be applied. Interns will benefit from hands-on experience, guidance from the policy team and introduction to a strong network in the outdoor industry.

Internship Dates

June 1, 2019 - August 20, 2019. Dates can be flexible.

To Apply

Application period February 22-March 22, 2019

Send cover letter and resume to:
Taylor Luneau, AAC Policy Manager
[email protected]

The AAC is an equal opportunity employer, compliant with all federal and applicable state laws governing nondiscrimination in employment. The AAC provides employment opportunities without regard to race, color, religion, gender, sexual orientation, national origin, age, or disability.

The Senate Just Passed the Public Lands Package!!

Great news for climbers! The senate just passed the public lands package, aka the Natural Resources Management Act (S.47) with a landslide vote of 92 to 8. The package of bills includes important legislation for the climbing community such as the permanent reauthorization of the Land and Water Conservation Fund, Emery County Public Lands Management Act, Every Kid Outdoors Act and the Mountains to Sound Greenway National Heritage Act. This is a major step forward after the Package was denied back in December of 2018. But, this is a new Congress and they need to hear your opinion on this important legislation! Please let your lawmakers know that we want the Natural Resource Management Act (S.47) passed! We’ve made it super easy for you to do so with our Action Alert below! Thank you for sharing your opinion!

Taylor Luneau

AAC, Policy Manager