Forest Service Eases Access for Groups

The next generation climbing on our public lands. Photo credit: AAC's Ron Funderburke

Our national forests provide awe and inspiration for millions of climbers. Their vertical playgrounds capture our spirit of adventure and challenge us to dig deep for our best selves. Today, Agriculture Secretary Tom Vilsack and U.S. Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell announced that they will make it easier for outfitters, guides, schools and non-profits to take groups into our national forests. This announcement begins an important turning point in climbing access. Historically, individuals and organizations that teach climbing have faced challenges in obtaining permits from the USFS. They are often subject to significant fees, commercial use authorizations, and other requirements. The American Alpine Club has long been advocating for reforming the system.

The education and mentorship provided by guides, outdoor leaders and instructors are critical for the development of competent climbers who travel light on the land. We believe that individuals and organizations that teach climbing should have easy access to the land they need for classes. Doing so will lead to a greater appreciation for public lands and will help cultivate the next generation of stewards.  “We need to be active in meeting a changing population of climbers and other visitors to our National Forests. Good instruction gives people the skills for a lifetime of enjoyment they can pursue safely and with the knowledge to care for the land we all love,” says Phil Powers, AAC CEO.

The Forest Service states that its new, streamlined approach to special-use permitting will be implemented over time and will make it easier and faster to receive or renew permits. Steps being taken include:

• Increasing consistency in the permit process across the country.

• Increasing use of allowable waivers when a special use permit is not required.

• Investing in technology, including an electronic permit application process.

However, sufficient funding is critical to making it happen. Without the resources to implement these steps, land managers won’t have the capacity to process new permits. Budget cuts on top of the growing costs of fighting wildfire has come at the expense of the staff who administers permits. We still need Congress to pass a real budget fix. A fire funding solution will help ensure that the USFS will be able to welcome those who want to learn how to climb through instruction on public lands.  We take our responsibility for caring for these lands seriously and we applaud the Forest Service’s efforts. 

Past President Nick Clinch Passes Away

Nick and his books at his home library. Photo: Clinch Collection

Past president and legendary expedition leader Nick Clinch has passed away today at the age of 85. Beyond Clinch's important role in the history of American mountaineering, his devotion to the AAC helped the Club thrive over the 62 years of his membership. He was a driving force behind the Club's library and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch.

“Nick certainly contributed much to climbing in America. He was a brilliant expedition leader and a wonderful diplomat. But I think most of his contributions were behind the scenes,” said CEO Phil Powers. “He was always there with the counsel to get us through the hard decisions. I have benefitted from knowing a number of the great men on whose shoulders we stand as climbers today—but I’ll miss none more than Nick.”

Nick, thank you for everything you did for the Club and climbing.

Read more about Nick's many accomplishments: http://bit.ly/24RSeqH

Nick Clinch and team on Hidden Peak. Photo: Andrew Kauffman Collection

AAMEE team back at McMurdo (left to right) Standing: Evans, Wahlstrom, Clinch, Corbet, Schoening. Kneeling: Hollister, Silverstein, Marts, Long, Fukushima. Photo: 1966 AAME team

American Alpine Club past president Nicholas Bayard Clinch (b. 1930) passed away today, June 15, 2016 in Palo Alto, California.

Clinch is regarded as one of America's most successful expedition leaders. He is the only American to have led the first ascent of an 8,000 meter peak: Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I, 26,470 feet) in 1958. He also led the first ascent of the notorious and beautiful Masherbrum (25,660 feet) in 1960 and Mount Vinson, the highest peak in Antarctica, along with the other major summits of the Vinson Massif in 1966. Clinch Peak (15,883 ft) was named in his honor in 2006.

Clinch’s account of the 1958 Hidden Peak expedition was published as the book A Walk in the Sky in 1982. Nick also published Through a Land of Extremes: The Littledales of Central Asia with his wife Elizabeth Clinch in 2011.

His explorations have included numerous ascents in the United States, the British Columbia Coast Range, Peru and China. He also introduced the ice screw into North American climbing usage. For his extraordinary services to mountaineering Clinch was made a Fellow of the prestigious Explorers Club in 1969 and later elected to Honorary Membership in The Alpine Club [London]. In 2013 he was inducted into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence for both his achievements on and off the mountain by the American Mountaineering Museum. He is an honorary member of the American Alpine Club and has received the Heilprin Award for service to the Club and the rarely granted President’s Gold Medal—twice.

Beyond Clinch's important role in the history of American mountaineering, his devotion to the AAC helped the Club thrive over the 62 years of his membership. Nick served as Club president from 1968 to 1970 and afterwards he served one term (1971-1973) as treasurer. He has been instrumental in the growth of the AAC Library, and a major contributor to the Central Asia collection. In 1971 Nick worked tirelessly with Leigh Ortenberg and NPS Director Horace Albright to establish the Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch.

He was a student of climbing history and a prolific book collector with, as he often said, “the discrimination of a vacuum cleaner,” according to AAC CEO Phil Powers. His collection resides at the American Alpine Club Library in Golden, Colorado.

“Nick certainly contributed much to climbing in America. He was a brilliant expedition leader and a wonderful diplomat. But I think most of his contributions were behind the scenes,” said Powers. “He was always there with the counsel to get us through the hard decisions. I have benefitted from knowing a number of the great men on whose shoulders we stand as climbers today—but I’ll miss none more than Nick.”

Between expeditions and playing a strong and ongoing leadership role in support of AAC, Clinch was a long-time Executive Director of the Sierra Club Foundation and an early board member at REI.

2016 D.C. Lobby Day

In February 2016, a group of board members, partners and AAC member Conrad Anker, climbed Capitol Hill to talk with policymakers and advocate for the places we climb. We found that there is a high regard among many of our elected officials and their staffs—as well as from agency representatives—about the AAC and its members. We focused on the following issues:

• Land Water Conservation Fund: A bipartisan effort to protect natural treasures and outdoor recreation. For more than 50 years, LWCF has protected  5 million acres of land and supported more than 41,000 state and local park projects. We want to ensure LWCF is permanently reauthorized and fully funded in the long-term.

• Centennial Act: An effort to address critical maintenance and improvement projects in our national parks as the National Park Service prepares to celebrate its centennial next year. We want to see a bipartisan bill that builds on recent funding increases and ensures our climbing landscapes remain healthy and supported for the next 100 years.

• Recreation Economic Contribution Act (Rec Act): A bill that would require the government to officially measure the impact of outdoor recreation on the U.S. economy. We believe that the Rec Act will raise the policy profile of the outdoor community and emphasize the importance of protecting public lands.

• Bears Ears: An effort to permanently protect valuable climbing areas in southeastern Utah (includes Indian Creek, Valley of the Gods and Lockhart Basin to name a few). Whether protection is done through a national monument designation or through legislation, we are working to ensure that rock climbing is acknowledged as an acceptable activity.

• Director’s Order 41: A National Park Service order that states that climbing is a legitimate activity in Wilderness, and that fixed anchors are necessary for climbing. We are working to ensure this precedent will also be adopted by other agencies including the Bureau of Land Management and the U.S. Forest Service.

“Meeting with staffers, leaders and decision makers on the hill makes a difference. If we don’t, who will? I’ve seen time and again where the simple act of spending time talking about what you are passionate about makes a difference.”

— Paul Gagner, former AAC Board Member

A new year, a new name!

This is a big year for Accidents in North American Climbing.
You read that right: We’ve updated the name of Accidents to reflect the evolving nature of modern climbing.
 
Nearly two-thirds of the incidents covered in Accidents each year involve rock climbing instead of mountaineering. And the great majority of new climbers and new AAC members—the ones who will benefit most from this book’s educational lessons—are primarily rock climbers. As the name suggests, Accidents in North American Climbing is a resource for ALL climbers.
 
That’s not all that’s new in Accidents. For the first time in the book’s nearly 70-year history, we’ll be publishing in full color this year. Thanks to our dedicated and growing team of volunteer regional editors, we have more reports than ever. And the new Sharp End podcast, based on the stories in the pages of Accidents, is growing by leaps and bounds.
 
Get involved! Encourage your climbing partners to read Accidents in North American Climbing. (Current AAC members will receive the 2016 edition this August.) And if you value our work, consider supporting Accidents with a donation. 

A Shared Love for Southeast Utah

May 23rd, 2016: Climbers and tribal representatives gathered together to discuss the future management of southeast Utah. Photocredit: EcoFlight 

The climbing in southeast Utah is some of the best in the country, beckoning rock climbers from around the world. It tests our physical and mental boundaries and provides adventure, fulfillment and personal growth. The Bears Ears area of southeast Utah is particularly important. It’s a 1.9-million-acre region north of the San Juan River and east of the Colorado River that includes Native American archeological and cultural sites and exceptional climbing such as Indian Creek, Lockhart Basin, Arch Canyon, Comb Ridge, and Valley of the Gods.

Climbers aren’t the only ones with a profound love of southeast Utah. Its sacredness runs deep. Home to more than 100,000 cultural and archaeological sites, the Bears Ears area is the most significant unprotected archeological area in the country. Tribal leaders and medicine people continue to conduct ceremonies, collect herbs for medicinal purposes, and practice healing rituals there. In a recent meeting with representatives from the Bears-Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition, the AAC and Access Fund had the opportunity to connect with them over our shared love and respect for the land.

These treasures—climbing areas and spiritual sites—may be at risk. With two land management proposals on the table, the stakes are complicated. Congressmen Bishop and Chaffetz’s Public Lands Initiative (PLI) could—among other things—open the land to resource extraction. Not good for the tribes or for climbers. Here’s where it gets tricky: if instead, the Bears Ears area becomes a national monument, cultural resources will be protected, but it’s possible that there could be new restrictions on recreational uses. We’re working with the Access Fund and the Inter-Tribal Coalition to keep climbing open in the Bears Ears region while ensuring much-needed protections for cultural resources. 

Partnering with local Native American tribes is critical in protecting the breathtaking beauty of the Bears Ears area and ensuring that we can continue to enjoy its world-class climbing. On May 23rd, AAC and Access Fund joined with representative from the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition to discuss the proposed monument and do a fly-over with EcoFlight. We spoke about how respectful climbing practices are compatible with natural and cultural resource protection and shared information about the ways in which climbers serve as stewards of public lands. Tribal representatives explained their grave concerns about resource extraction, the proposed PLI and emphasized the lands’ sacredness. We shared our report on a joint AAC/Access Fund letter writing campaign to President Obama which captures how much climbers value southeast Utah. They were impressed and encouraged to hear that 1,135 climbers wrote in response to our call to action.

It is clear that climbers and the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition share similar feelings about this area: both groups have reverence for the land and want it to be protected. We don’t support resource extraction in places with such extraordinary cultural and recreation value as Bears Ears. As policy decisions unfold, the AAC and Access Fund will continue to do everything we can to ensure that land management policies protect Native American cultural and archaeological sites while recognizing climbing as an appropriate activity in southeast Utah. 

2016 Live Your Dream Grant Winners Announced

Photo: AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

The American Alpine Club and The North Face are pleased to announce the recipients of the 2016 Live Your Dream grant. In total, $20,000 was awarded to 58 recipients from across the country. 

Congratulations to this year's recipients! We wish you all safe and successful adventures!

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NORTHWEST REGION:

Samuel Bedell: Bend, OR: $400

Samuel, along with partner Nick Mestre, will attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Asperity in the Waddington Range, British Columbia, Canada. This route features 1600m of technical climbing with difficulties up to 5.10 A1 WI3. Samuel and Nick are looking to test themselves on this long climb, involving various styles, complex problem solving, and efficient movement in a remote setting.

Cat Coe: Missoula, MT: $200

Cat and partner will attempt multiple objectives throughout the Cascades, including Serpentine Crack and Freedom Rider on Liberty Bell, the East Face of Lexington Tower, and Infinite Bliss on Mt. Garfield, as well as The Grand Wall (5.11a, A0), Krimo Gold, Birds of Prey, and other multipitch routes at the 5.10-5.11 grades in Squamish.

Lawrence Davis: Roseburg, OR: $200 Mike Taormina: Eugene, OR: $200

Lawrence and Mike plan to travel to the Arrigetch Peaks, a remote group of granite spires within Gates of the Arctic National Park, Alaska. The stunning area is split by a two-mile ridgeline comprised of nine major summits, from Slot Tower southwest to Badile. During the month of July, 2016, they will attempt an alpine-style traverse of this sweeping knife-edge ridge and its peaks.

Nicole Gaines, Troutdale, OR: $200

Nicole and her husband Luke will spend ten days in July, 2016 exploring the Southern Picket Range. For years, the Pickets have been a place they talked of going “someday", "when we are good enough climbers." That someday is now, and their objectives include the MacMillen Spires, the East Towers, Inspiration, the Pyramid, Mt. Degenhardt, Mt. Terror, & the Chopping Block.

Mary Gianotti, Juneau, AK: $400

Mary’s climbing objectives include an unnamed and unclimbed peak on the remote Juneau Icefield in Alaska, while ski traversing 137.53 miles across the icefield with an 5-person team in a light and fast mountaineering style.

Nate Goodwin, Bozeman, MT: $400

Nate plans to make a 3 week trip into the Ruth Gorge and Tokositna glacier this Spring. His objectives include the SW ridge of Peak 11,300, Shaken Not Stirred on The Mooses Tooth, and the Harvard route on Mt Huntington.

Aaron Hanson, Sandpoint, ID: $200

Aaron’s grant will be used to finish, and possibly free, an aid route attempted by Karl Dietrich and partner up a steep, unclimbed portion of Wall Tower in the Leaning Towers area, Southeastern British Columbia.

Emily E Johnston, Leavenworth, WA: $200

In 8 consecutive days this July, Emily and Melissa Sher plan to complete what they call "The Columbia Trifecta": climbing Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams, and Mt. Helens, riding our bicycles, without a support team, from one objective to the next.

Tiffany Larsen, Bend, OR: $200 Lauren Mork, Bend, OR: $200

Tiffany Larsen and Lauren Mork, will travel to Refugio Frey in Patagonia this coming winter. They plan to attept Imagínate (5.10/6a trad, 5 pitches), January 2017. Imagínate is at the upper-limit of their climbing ability, and through it, they will hone skills in multi-pitch traditional climbing.

Kimberley Palka, Seattle, WA: $200

Kimberley’s dream project is a tour of wall climbs. She will gain experience on Zion’s easier walls in a couple overnight attempts and a single day attempt, then relocate to the Fisher Towers for a one day ascent of the Titan.

Greg Sievers, Bozeman, MT: $200

Greg, along with his partners, are headed for Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies to climb the Kane Face regular route. All four of their team have had Mt. Robson on their bucket list for over twenty years.

Chris Simmons, Seattle, WA: $300

Chris and his partner will spend two weeks exploring the WWI history and climbing in the Marmolada and Sella Mountains of Alta Adige/Sud Tirol, Italy. Their ultimate route goals include the Vinatzer-Castiglioni Route on the South Face of the Marmolada (29 pitches, 5.10b) and the Fedele or the Dibona Routes on the NW Face of Sass Pordoi (both 24 pitches, 5.6).

Kelly Thomas, Portland, OR: $200

Kelley and partner are set on climbing the CMC route on Mt Moran. This is a 5 pitch trad route on Mt Moran (3,842 m) in the Tetons, Wyoming. This is the most climbed route on Mt Moran, however it still sees little traffic.

Szu-ting Yi, Redmond, WA: $200

Szu-ting plans to make the First Free Ascent of Orion's Reflection in the Cathedral Cirque area of the Wind River Range, WY.

WESTERN REGION:

Amy Bannon: Prescott, AZ: $500

Amy’s objective is to embark on an entirely self-supported climbing trip through the beautiful northern highlands of Scotland. Once landed in Glasgow, she and her climbing partner will travel by bicycle to the northern coast where they will attempt four of the most beautiful and iconic sea stacks.

Nicholas Bourdon: San Diego, CA: $450

Frader Pisafe (aka Salvaterra) is a 1500' tall 5.10+ in Patagonia involving a lot of crack climbing. Nicholas will be driving his motorcycle from Alaska to Argentina and is planning on climbing at least 1 route in each state (US), province (Canada), and country that he passes through, culminating in Frader Pisafe. At a minimum, he will climb 29 different routes.

Bradford Buter: Los Angeles, CA: $400

Bradford seeks out alpine climbing in the Ruth Gorge area of Denali NP, with the ultimate objective being the Harvard Route on Mt. Huntington.

John Greer: Modesto, CA: $400

The objective of John’s trip is to successfully climb a new line on Atlantis Wall in the Sonora Pass area of California. This wall is located on Broad Dome and climbs one thousand feet out of Donnell reservoir. Currently, there are only a few existing routes on the wall.

Tad McCrea: Larkspur, CA: $500

Tad holds his dream as the magnificent North Ridge of Monte San Valentine, off the northern icecap of Chilean Patagonia. San Valentine is the highest point in Patagonia, and the mighty unclimbed northern aspect sports a daunting 8,000ft of steep technical terrain. Tad plans to carry up-and-over the mountain and packraft out the Valle Exploradores from the western edge of the icecap.

Vitaliy Musiyenko: San Francisco, CA $400

Vitaliy’s plan is to climb the Fitz Roy via the striking North Pillar, also known as the Goretta Pillar. Since both of he and his partner like to explore rather than conquer, they hope to climb the peak via a less frequently attempted route - Mate Porro y Todo los Demas. It was completed to the summit recently, in 2011.

Bernadette Regan: Joshua Tree, CA: $500

Bernadette’s dream is to complete the first free ascent of the West Buttress of the Golden Klattasine in the Waddington Range of BC, Canada. She intends to climb alpine-style and install no additional hardware.

Buck Yedor: Oakland, CA: $450

Buck Yedor is planning on traveling to the Gran Sabana of southeastern Venezuela to attempt to put up a new big wall free climb on Acopan Tepui. Acopan Tepui is known for its steep, often times overhanging bullet hard sandstone walls. The featured sandstone lends itself to hard free climbing protected by traditional climbing gear.

ROCKY MOUNTAIN REGION:

Ben Ammon: Arvada, CO: $200

Ben Ammon will use his climbing and mountaineering experiences to take on the mountains in South America! His main aspiration is to send the French Direct route on Alpamayo and the Northeast face of Artesonraju. As he acclimatizes and trains for these mountains, he will tackle some of the more manageable peaks in Peru. His trip will culminate with these two proud ascents.

James Bachhuber: Denver, CO: $600

In the mountains of Japan, Shugendo monks, like alpinists, use cold, hunger, and feats of endurance to cultivate awareness. In January 2017, like the Shugendo monks, James and his team will also practice at a Shugendo temple.   They will spend seven days in a sacred valley beneath Mt. Kaikomagatake climbing remote ice routes including O-ren-dani right fork (1200m), Tanuki Suicide (WI5-, M4+, 120m) among others. This time will be a test of physical and mental fortitude while also weaving the subtle nuances of training the mind, body, and soul.  

Eleanor Barber: Aspen, CO: $250

Eleanor will be pushing her physical limits with a summit of Mount Rainier and a ski descent.   This ski mountaineering trip will take place this spring as she tackles one of the highest mountains in the lower 48 states. After summiting this 14,410 foot peak with her skis, she will the put them on to ski back down this big mountain.

Mario Davidson: Nederland, CO: $300

Andy Esparza, Mario Davidson, and Mark Touchstone are going to the Cochamo Valley in Chile to establish a new route on a big wall. They will spend this next year, training for and acquiring the confidence, strength, and technical skills needed for navigating this new terrain. An objective of this magnitude is pushing their personal limits which in turn pushes the limits of climbing in general and in-turn, opens new routes for future climbers.

Taylor Dickinson: South Jordan, UT: $450

As part of the School for International Expedition Training, Taylor will be joining the Ishinca Valley Expedition. For 21 days, Taylor will be training in self and partner rescue, professional development as guides, as well as glacial travel and effective alpine climbing. The course will culminate in attempts of four peaks, including Tocllaraju (~20,000') and Ranrapalca (~20,000'). Taylor’s new skills will undoubtedly provide him with new skills and safety techniques that will touch other’s lives and perpetuate safe climbing ethics and knowledge for tackling big objectives such as these.

Tom Forestieri: Longmont, CO: $250

Tom will be living his dream of climbing the Beckey-Chouinard route on the South Howser Tower in the Bugaboos. This alpine style classic is a coveted summit for almost any climber, which challenges everything from planning to fitness to technical rock climbing skills in order to achieve this goal.

John Kelley: Colorado Springs, CO: $250

John Kelley aspires to do a one-day link up of three classic Sedona Towers (Coyote Tower, Sedona Scenic Cruise, and The Mace) using mountain bikes as the sole means of transportation. This ultimate fitness challenge will involve John and his climbing partners to travel via bike between the peaks, over many miles of technical, mountain biking terrain, carrying all of their gear and provisions. They will leave their bikes to begin climbing routes to summit and link the three towers, climbing technical routes up to the grade of 5.10d! This challenge will put their endurance, power, and technical climbing skills to the test!

Mallory Lambert: Layton, UT: $300

Mallory and her climbing partner seek to travel to the Codrillera Blance in Peru. They aspire to climb the Original Route (5.10+ 2000') on La Esfinge (The Sphinx) in Valle Paron, an enormous granite formation in the Paron Valley. These climbing partners will share leads to summit this challenging wall. Mallory’s goal is not only to push her physical limits and technical skills, but also mentally push herself to take more responsibility in climbing and trust in her abilities as a lead climber. She will apply everything she knows about climbing to tackle this coveted objective!

Mark Pugliese: Salt Lake City, UT: $650

Mark and his climbing partner are traveling to the Rolwaling Valley of Nepal. Here they will attempt 2 first ascents in the Himalayas. One of the routes goes up the west face of Chugimago (6259m), while the other may go on either the south face or SE ridge of Kang Nachugo (6735m). Navigating in some of the biggest mountains in the world, and establishing new lines is a lofty aspiration for any climber, and opens routes for many climbers to come.

Marc Ripperger: Albequerque, NM: $700

Marc will be traveling to the Cordillera Blance in Peru to climb the Original Route on La Esfinge (The Sphinx) in Valle Paron. After first learning about this route about 8 years ago, La Esfinge has been a dream for Marc to travel to Peru to summit. This notoriously sandbagged route involves climbing about 20 pitches up to 5.11c. This large granite, feature tops out at 17,470 ft. with 3,000 ft. of climbing in a one day push!

Zachary Snavely: Lander, WY: $300

Zach’s adventure includes planning, training, and completing, his first international alpine climbing expedition! His objective includes traveling to Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia to attempt the several classic alpine lines. He will be putting

Brian Sparks: Moab, UT: $300

Brian is doing a ski mountaineering ascent and decent of Mt. Rainier via the Fuhrer Finger Route from Paradise on June 2nd, cross the Nisqually Glacier and ascend the Wilson Glacier to camp at 9200m. This is something will challenge Brian and take his ski mountaineering to the next level.

CENTRAL REGION:

Colten Moore: Marquette, MI: $300

Colten will take the cold weather suffering and ice climbing skills he has honed on the south shore of Lake Superior to the massive Lake Baikal in Siberian Russia. There he and his team will tour the frozen lake on fat bikes in search of new ice routes on Lake Baikal’s northwest shore.

Andrew Clift: Rapid City, SD: $250

Andrew and his partner are travelling to the Bugaboos to climb four classic routes: The West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (III 5.4), The Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire (IV 5.8), The Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower (IV 5.10), and The Sunshine Crack on Snowpatch Spire (IV 5.11). Andrew is looking forward to the opportunity to engage in the entire process of planning and completing a major trip of this nature. 

Jane Horth: Houston, TX: $250

Jane and her partner will also be travelling to the Bugaboos to attempt a pair of routes: Solitary Confinement on Prince Alpert Spire (III 5.11), and The Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire (IV 5.8). Having climbed extensively on large objectives in the Desert Southwest and California, Jane is looking to take those skills to an alpine environment.

Sean Buehler: Carmel, IN: $200

Currently a Wilderness EMT, Sean is looking to take the next step in his dream of earning a degree in Wilderness Medicine. For him, that step involves a four-to-five day training ascent of the Cooper Spur on Mt. Hood (III), where he will learn and practice skills for navigating snowy peaks as well as receiving behavioral emergency training.

Lewis Billingsley: Jena, LA: $200

Lewis has a love for big, snowy and remote mountains. Since 2014 he has been acquiring the skills and knowledge required to take them on. The next step in his progression will take him to South America, where he will attempt the French Direct on Alpamayo (WI2).

Don Wargowsky: Cutler, OH: $200

Don and his teammates are heading to Nepal to complete unguided ascents of Island Peak and the Southwest Ridge of Ama Dablam without Sherpa support. This expedition will, in Don’s words, “…be the culmination of all the skills that I have built through climbing, trip leading, and traveling internationally [and] will be the highlight of my climbing career.”

Joshua Cronk: Novi, MI: $200

Josh and his brother have a long term goal of climbing El Cap. To that end they are planning on travelling to the Pacific Northwest, where they will attempt several multi-pitch routes in order to begin building the necessary experience. They in tend to visit the Goat Wall in Mazama, WA where they will attempt Prime Rib of Goat (III 5.9) and possibly Sisyphus (III 5.11a). From there they will head to Smith Rock in Oregon where they will attempt to summit the Monkey Face.

Clayton Ernst: Austin, TX: $200

Clayton and his partner are heading to Zion National Park, in Utah to attempt Touchstone (V 5.9 C2). For them this is a stepping stone to bigger walls and bigger mountains. They chose Zion, and specifically Touchstone, for both aesthetic and practical reasons. On their trip they will practice their aid and wall climbing skills in an amazing setting.

Erin Lynch: Ann Arbor, MI: $200

Erin has proven herself on long and difficult sport routes, but now the iconic beauty of Devil’s Tower and its El Matador (III 5.10d) have drawn her to expand her trad climbing skills. Erin will travel to Wyoming and attempt to climb this classic line.

Morgan Smith: College Station, TX: $200

Morgan and his partner plan to travel to El Potrero Chico in Nuevo Leon, Mexico. There, they intend on completing an extension to the classic Super Nova (III 5.11a). In the process they hope to make the first ascent of not just their extension but also the formation which it will ascend. In the process they hope to gain experience in hauling, extended wall-life, ground-up bolting, and the techniques and effort required to open a classic line.

NORTHEAST REGION:

Alissa Doherty: Boston, MA: $300

Alissa’s main objective is to climb Goldfinger in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska. She has been dreaming of Alaska since first seeing Bradford Washburn's incredible images of the Ruth Gorge. After a failed attempt last year due to poor weather conditions, Alissa is ready for another shot at this iconic climb.

Heather Hudson: Providence, RI: $400

Heather’s objective is to hike into the Deep Lake area of the Wind River Range, Wyoming, and climb the Southwest Arete of Lost Temple Spire. Her motivation? To shed the dependence her and her partner have had on their significant others and more experienced climbers to lead the way. They have decided it is time to put their skills to the test and lead themselves into the role of leader. They are ready and confident to take on this challenge head on, sans dudes. Good luck ladies!

Ethan Berman: Cambridge, MA: $250

Ethan’s main objective is to climb classic routes in the Bugaboos with his sister, Nina, hoping to establish a new alpine route in the region making it their first “sibling” first ascent. They have both been training incessantly through traditional climbing in both Red Rocks and Zion. They have established numerous ascents in the area and are hoping to break into a new realm together in the environment that they are both most connected to, alpine rock. Above all else, they are hoping in addition to becoming stronger climbers, they also develop a stronger bond between them as siblings.

Andrew Blease: Glen, NH: $400

As a previous winner of the LYD grant, Andrew was shut down on his trip to climb in RMNP by a late winter snowstorm. After a year of training hard in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Andrew is ready to give it another go in his dream of alpine climbing and ski mountaineering. This trip is one step in achieving his long term goals of exploring alpine climbs in areas like Chamonix, Alaska and South America.

Devin Farkas: Canton, NY: $1000

“If your climbing dreams don’t scare you, dream bigger.” This is the mantra of Devin Farkas who’s dream is to climb the Beckey-Chouinard Route, West buttress, South Howser Tower in Bugaboo Provincial Park, Alberta Canada. According to him this is the culmination of his path as a climber and hopes that it will act as a launching point for his future. After years of overcoming boundaries in his climbing career, Devin is confident that this objective will establish new horizons for him in the future.

Michael Posner: Plainville, CT: $450

Two years ago, Michael was diagnosed with stage 1 colon cancer, news that would cripple the majority of us. Michael decided to let it be a launching point to change his life for the better. While tackling summits in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, the dream of climbing his first “fourteener” started to become more evident and achievable. That is why his objective is to tackle Grays Peak in Colorado, the highest peak in the Front Range. With this he strives to not only maintain his newly found healthy lifestyle, but also be a role model for positive change in others.

James Voorhis: Center Conway, NH: $500

James and his climbing partner Chris dream of summiting both Cerro Torre and Cerro Fitz Roy in their first season in Patagonia. Claiming to thrive when they dream big, they have proven nothing but just that in their time together. Since their first push up the West Face of the Leaning Tower to their epic four-day ascent on El Cap, they both have coached and supported each other down the road that they hope will propel their climbing skills, as well as their partnership into new terrain.

SOUTHEAST REGION:

Brian Barwatt: Sylvia, NC: $600

Brian and his partner will attempt to climb Quitaraju via the North Face and Alpamayo via the French Direct route in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru.

Amanda Ellis: Wake Forest, NC: $400

Amanda’s goal is to travel to one of the world’s greatest alpine playgrounds to ascend the North East Ridge of Bugaboo Spire.

Josh Kraft: Chesapeake, VA: $400

Josh’s objective is to summit the Grand Teton in Wyoming, a climb he has long dreamt of doing, but was unable to pursue due to health problems until now.

Alex Marine: Washington, DC: $500

Alex will attempt to establish new free routes on the Cloud Peak massif and surrounding mountains in the Bighorns of Wyoming using traditional methods and gear. Alex will establish a base camp at the base of Cloud Peak and explore all aspects for ~10 days, focusing primarily on unclimbed or less climbed faces.

Kyle Sox: Columbia, SC: $600

Kyle and his partner Scott will attempt a first ascent traverse of the 11+ mile Wind River Crest from Indian Pass to Pedestal col. in a single, week-long push to link the highest, unbroken skyline in Wyoming.

Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner Recap

Photo: AAC member Michael Lim/Edwin Teran

The AAC’s first ever Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner at the History Colorado Center in Denver, presented by Adidas Outdoor, celebrated the inspirational 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees, the Alpina Cutting Edge awardees and raised critical funds for AAC programs and institutions. 

Read what the press had to say: 

True Heroes of Climbing
"The word “hero” gets thrown around a lot in climbing. But as impressive as summiting K2 or bouldering V15 might be, the genuine heroes of climbing are those whose achievements help make the world a better place..."—Climbing.com

Women Are On The Rise In The Climbing World
"It was a giant stepping stone,” said Libby Sauter, the award recipient and also the keynote speaker of the night. Sauter is the youngest climber to be added to the Hall, and only one of five women in its history, since the club’s birth more than a century ago..."—Gear Junkie.com 

View the photo album

 

Climbers Speak up to Protect Climbing in Southeast Utah

Can you imagine the splitter cracks of Indian Creek, the stunning towers of Valley of the Gods, and the sandstone sculptures of Arch Canyon surrounded by oil rigs or off limits to climbers?

Right now, two initiatives are under consideration that may impact access to Indian Creek, Castle Valley, Fischer Towers, San Rafael Swell, Valley of the Gods, Comb Ridge, and countless remote climbing objectives both known and yet to be discovered.

1. The Public Lands Initiative (PLI) outlines an extensive plan to manage state and federal lands in southeastern Utah. It threatens designated Wilderness, supports the transfer of federal land to the state, and for the majority of the lands in question it prioritizes resource extraction over both recreation and conservation.

2. Unhappy with the PLI, an Inter-Tribal Coalition proposed the Bears Ears National Monument to the Obama administration, with a focus on preserving Native American traditional values. If the President proclaims Bears Ears National Monument, the climbing community needs to ensure that the proclamation acknowledges and protects the world-class climbing in the area along with the other important values in the Bears Ears region.

Together, the American Alpine Club and Access Fund rallied climbers everywhere to protect this area. Climbers shared their experiences in southeastern Utah so that as these initiatives are considered, it is clear that outdoor recreation is important and needs to be protected.

We received 1,135 thoughtful letters about the importance of protecting climbing southeast Utah. Eight AAC and AF staff read every single letter. We are thrilled with what came over the wire. Our team put together a report based on your letters that we shared with policymakers and partners in Washington, DC. The response we got in DC proves again that your voice matters and makes a difference.

Sustainable Summits Conference 2016

“We must continue to persevere, to protect, and restore public lands, provide stewardship of the places that inspire us and guarantee responsible access to public lands and water.”

— Peter Metcalf, CEO/President of Black Diamond Equipment

What does the Sustainable Summits Conference address?

• Practical solutions to sustaining our mountain environments

• Features talks, workshops, panel discussions, poster presentations, field trips and social events

• Outstanding international presenters from Alaska, Austria, France, Nepal and New Zealand

• Optional final day field trip exploring the Hooker Valley or glacier skiing in Aoraki/Mount Cook National park.

The 2016 conference follows two successful conferences in the USA in 2010 and 2014, organized and hosted by the New Zealand Alpine Club. The NZ conference is celebrating 125 years of NZ mountaineering in association with the New Zealand Department of Conservation and with the support of Ngāi Tahu, the Māori people of the southern islands of New Zealand.

For More Information Visit: 

• www.sustainable-summits.com

• https://www.facebook.com/SustainableSummits/timeline

Register for email updates Enquiries: [email protected]

The Value of Public Lands - A climber's perspective

 Andrew Forkes-Gudmundson

AAC Conservation and Advocacy Team

As climbers, we have a unique connection to public lands. According to research by Access Fund, more than 70% of climbing in the west happens on publicly owned lands. Can you imagine if the splitter cracks in Indian Creek, the bloodthirsty off-widths of Vedauwoo, or the bold, big walls of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison were suddenly off limits to climbers?

As you read this, all these climbing resources and many more across the west are in danger. Members of Congress, state legislators, and various presidential candidates are promising to transfer these public lands to state governments, sometimes with the express purposes of selling them off. Even worse, last year it went beyond promises: the United States Senate passed a budget amendment that would pave the way for large scale transfers to the states. [1]

What does it mean to transfer public lands to states?

By their very nature, federal lands are owned by the public. We all have a right to be on them and to have a say in how they are managed. The transfer of public lands from the federal government to state governments is being promoted as a way to make land management more local. This narrative is fundamentally incorrect, for a very important reason. Federal lands are held in trust for all the people of America, while state lands are merely a source of revenue for the state that owns them. State lands can be sold by the state to anyone, largely without citizen input. Transferring public lands to the states would actually reduce the amount of say the public has in management of the land. [2] 

People fear the specter of distant bureaucrats controlling the lands in their backyard. The reality is that management of federally owned lands is incredibly decentralized. More than 80% of federal land management staff for the Department of the Interior are already based in local places out west. The AAC works diligently to provide both national policy makers and regional land managers with public input, bringing the voices of climbers to the management discussion.

At the AAC, we believe that public lands, including all the climbing resources located on them, belong to us all, and we are part of a coalition of nonprofits and outdoor businesses who believe the same.[3] Together, we are tracking state legislation and speaking up when damaging public lands bills are introduced.

In the last 18 months, nearly 50 bills in 11 Western states have been introduced in state legislatures demanding transfer or sell off.

We need you to help stop this from happening.

Until people who love to recreate outdoors speak out, policymakers will continue to entertain bills that give away our lands. Our public lands need defending. If you believe that public lands belong to everyone, not a few private interests, please let your legislators know. Sign the petition now. This petition is the first and most important step, and will keep you updated with what is happening in your state. So far, we have 15,000 signatures. Let’s get 15,000 more.

Sources

[1] http://www.outdooralliance.org/blog/2016/2/24/house-bills-threaten-to-sell-off-national-forests

[2] http://www.protectourpublicland.org/news-collection/2015/7/28/7-differences-between-state-lands-and-public-lands

[3] http://www.protectourpublicland.org/#supporters-sectio

Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster Receive First Annual Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award

Photo: Kyle Dempster

On behalf of Alpina Watches and the American Alpine Club, Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have been selected to receive the first annual Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award for their outstanding 2012 accomplishment in establishing two new routes in Pakistan's Karakoram, the east face of K7 and the south face of Ogre I.

The Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award will be presented each year to one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrates excellency in skills and accomplishment in cutting edge climbing objectives and who upholds the values of the American Alpine Club, acting as world-class ambassadors to American climbing both domestically and abroad. Hayden and Kyle's 2012 achievements in Pakistan were funded in part through the AAC's Lyman Spitzer grant.

Read about the ascents. 

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Honoring the deep traditions of style, ethics, and the “Brotherhood of the Rope,” The Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award will recognize one climbing team who, with the aid of an AAC climbing grant, demonstrated excellence in climbing, upheld the values of the American Alpine Club and Alpina Watches, and acted in a manner befit a world-class ambassador to American climbing both domestically and abroad. 

“Alpina is a great partnership for this new award. Both the AAC and Alpina believe in high standards of performance and promoting those climbers who employ exceptional style both on and off the mountain,” said Phil Powers, CEO of the American Alpine Club. “The Cutting Edge Award celebrates great climbing achievement with an emphasis on admirable camaraderie within the team, and a real respect for the environments which they travel.”

“Climbing has no boundaries and no nationality. Climbers from all over the world share the same human, ethical and sports values, because the mountain demands and deserves them” says Guido Benedini, Alpina Watches CEO. “Being a Brand born in the Swiss Alps in 1883, since more than a century, we regard it as our responsibility to support mountaineering values and the protection of the Alpine environment. We are therefore extremely proud to give our contribution to the AAC by supporting the Alpina AAC Cutting Edge Award and by becoming their Official Watch”. 

2016 Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner

What do these names have in common? Tom Frost, Hugh Herr, John Roskelley, Libby Sauter, and Geoff Tabin.

These are your 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence inductees!

They will be recognized at the inaugural AAC Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner on May 7th, 2016. We invite you to join us at the History Colorado Center to honor these amazing climbers who achieve both on and off the mountain.

This special event includes a cocktail reception, silent and live auctions, high cuisine, keynote by Libby Sauter, and an after party with live music.

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Learn More:

The American Alpine Club is proud to announce our inaugural Excellence in Climbing Awards Dinner, presented by Adidas Outdoor. The dinner will feature a keynote by Adidas athlete Libby Sauter and honor the 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardees: Tom Frost, Hugh Herr, John Roskelley, Libby Sauter, and Geoff Tabin. This prestigious award is given to those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. These climbers have inspired a legacy for future climbers, positively impacted the environment, and advanced the fields of science and medicine, all while accomplishing incredible climbing feats.

“For the past 7 years, the American Mountaineering Museum has been quietly inducting America's most accomplished climbers into the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “This year the AAC is recognizing these notable climbers in a much more public forum in downtown Denver.”

The event features a special keynote by Libby Sauter. An all around climber, Sauter has many accomplishments ranging from big walls to mountaineering to high lining. She holds speed records in Yosemite and has done first ascents in South America. When not in the mountains, Sauter works as a pediatric nurse for Novick Cardiac Alliance, a nonprofit that brings cardiac care to conflict zones.

Here is a little more about this year’s group of inductees:

Tom Frost for his efforts in saving Yosemite's iconic Camp 4 and his many first ascents in Yosemite including the Salathe Wall. 

Geoff Tabin for co-founding The Himalayan Cataract Project, which brings sustainable eye care to the Himalaya and for climbing the seven summits. 

John Roskelley for giving back to the climbing community with his writing, his public service and notable ascents in the Himalaya including the third ascent, and first American ascent,  of K2, by a new route.

Hugh Herr who is head of the Biomechatronics research group at MIT,where he develops wearable robotic systems that serve to augment human physical capability and for climbing many first ascents such as the first 5.13 on the East Coast with Lynn Hill.

Libby Sauter for her many speed records in Yosemite, including a new women's record on the Nose of 4 hours and 43 minutes, and for her work as a pediatric nurse for children who need heart surgery in third world countries.

The dinner  will be held on May 7, 2016 at the History Colorado Center located at 1200 Broadway, Denver, CO 80203. To go along with the keynote and induction ceremony, attendees will enjoy a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and fine dining.  An after party featuring live music by 80’s cover band,  The Goonies, an open bar, and gear giveaway will take place directly after the dinner also at History Colorado. All proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum.

AAC's Gold Standard Curriculum: Belaying

Photo: AAC member Drew Smith

Introduction

American climbers currently learn to belay from professional climbing instructors and guides, from formal and informal mentors, and an increasing number learn to climb in indoor/artificial climbing structures and facilities. While there is general competence with belay related skills and techniques, an underlying belay-related accident/incident rate underscores the lack of uniformity among American belayers. While certain belay techniques, tools, and principles seem to predominate, a national adherence/advocacy for a single set of guiding fundamentals, best practices, and standards does not exist.

The following curriculum is designed to not only define the content used to teach belay education programs for the American Alpine Club, but eventually consolidate and reform American belaying entirely.

Overview

• Belaying Equipment

• Attaching to the Climbing Rope

• Fundamental Principles of Belay

• The Belay System

• Belaying a Top Rope

• Belaying a Lead Climber

• Use of Ground Anchors

• Appendix 1: Third-Party Reviewers, Testers, Endorsements, and Certifications

• Appendix 2: Additional Equipment and Ropework

Belaying Equipment

All of the equipment used to implement this curriculum should be designed, tested, and manufactured for climbing-specific applications by a reputable manufacturer. Any one of a handful of options are available in the United States, and unfamiliar or foreign manufacturers can be cross-referenced with several third-party organizations that confirm and endorse the strength, durability, and integrity of all the equipment mentioned in this curriculum (see appendix 1).

Harnesses

The Edelrid Solaris is a modern, all-arounder.

All harnesses used for rock climbing should be tested and designed specifically for that purpose. A modern climbing harness should consist of the following components, at a minimum:

• Waist belt

• Tie-in points *

• Belay loop *

• Buckles

The Black Diamond Vario Speed has a single belay and tie-in point.

*Some harnesses have the same point for tying in and belaying.

There are a few consequential variations in harness design: Harnesses with a single belay and tie-in point are oriented horizontally on the waist belt. As a result, the attachment of a belay device will have a left or right orientation that should be consistent with the belayer’s dominant hand.

Harnesses with two hard points are usually connected by a vertically oriented belay loop. As a result, the tie-in occupies a separate reinforced path than any carabiner that may be clipped to the belay loop. The vertical belay loop also results in a belay device orientation that is centered on the belayer’s body, negating the relevance of their specifically dominant hand.

Belay Devices

Unlike the terrain or body belay techniques used historically in rock climbing, a modern belay device introduces a more consistent and functional supply of friction to a belay system. When combined with an adequate counter-weight or a load-bearing anchor, a belay device can retard or halt the movement of a climbing rope, thereby arresting falls, creating comfortable lowers, and otherwise securing a climber in a climbing environment.

It is important to note that no belay device effectively secures a climber without a correct setup, effective and correct use, and/or an adequate counterweight or anchor.

While many different models, colors, and styles exist, they all fall into two major categories:

• Plate/Aperture/Tube Devices

• Assisted Braking Devices (Learn more about Assisted Braking Devices here.)

Locking Carabiners

Since the connection of a belay device to a counterweight or anchor is vitally important, ensuring the safety of a climber, a secure and reliable connection is a prudent practice.

An Edelrid HMS Bulletproof screwgate carabiner.

Historically, a single carabiner with a carefully monitored locking mechanism has proved adequate. However, since the locking carabiner is a vital critical link in the climbing system, the security of its locking mechanism must be supplemented with a thorough understanding of the strengths and weakness of the unit, vigilant supervision during use, and careful inspection that precedes any belay sequence.

Parts of a Locking Carabiner

Basket/Basin. The larger side of the carabiner can accommodate bulky ropes, hitches, or tools.

An Edelrid HMS Bulletproof Twist FG carabiner with triple-action gate and belay loop keeper.

Locking Mechanism. The locking mechanism keeps the carabiner’s gate from opening unintentionally. The different styles can be characterized by the number of physical movements it takes to open a locked carabiner. Screwgate closures require two physical movements, unscrewing the locking mechanism and then opening the gate; it is a two step locking mechanism. Other styles often require three steps.

Long and short axis. The long axis is designed to be loaded. The short axis is not. Locking carabiners are designed to load the long axis. Horizontal loads (loading the carabiner along its short axis) or tri-axial loads (loading the carabiner in three directions) can decrease the strength of the carabiner significantly and may compromise the overall climbing safety system.

Climbing Ropes

Climbing ropes are the most iconic tools in rock climbing. They are manufactured in dozens of varieties, but the ropes most important to this curriculum should be those specifically designed and tested for single strand rock climbing applications. The most relevant variations in climbing ropes are length, diameter, elongation, and middle indications.

Length. Most of the climbing and belaying done indoors involves a rope that is redirected from the top anchor so that both ends of the rope will reach the ground. In such an arrangement, the climbing rope should be twice as long as the climb. Indoors, these lengths are usually specifically cut to accommodate the length of the climbs in the facility. Outdoors, climbers usually purchase pre-cut lengths, typically sold in 60m and 70m options.

Diameter. The rope’s diameter has logical consequences for different climbing applications. Wide ropes are more durable but heavier, so they tend to be more popular indoors, where ropes do not need to be carried by climbers. Outdoors, climbers have a greater appetite for skinnier ropes, because they are lighter. However, as the rope diameter decreases, so does the overall durability.

A Sterling Helix 9.5mm dynamic climbing rope with bi-color patter to indicate the middle.

Elongation. Climbing ropes stretch to absorb the energy of a falling climber and reduce the impact force sustained by the climber’s body, the belayer’s body, and the anchor/top piece. But, the amount of stretch can vary. Stretchy ropes are beneficial when lead climbers are taking falls, but less elongation is valuable for toproping, when climber’s prefer not to lose too much progress on the climb each time they fall.

Middle Indication. In many climbing applications, it is important to be able to quickly find the middle of the rope. The middle can either be indicated by a marking, inked or dyed onto the rope, or the sheath of rope may change pattern or color at the mid-point.

Attaching to the climbing rope

Attaching the climbing rope to a climber’s harness is a routine task in any climbing context. Indoors, it is common for the climber to tie in to one end of the rope, while the other end of the rope is simply managed. Outdoors, it is common for the climber to tie in to one end of the rope, while the belayer ties in to the other end of the same rope.

In both cases, the figure 8 follow through is one of several different options for attaching the rope to the climber, but it is the option that tends to dominate because it easy to teach, easy to learn, easily recognizable when tied correctly, while also being a secure and strong knot. This curriculum will emphasize tying the figure 8 follow through in a standardized manner, and it will propose the knot as the definitive attachment technique for American climbing.

Tying the Figure 8 Follow Through

When tying the figure 8 follow through, it is important to remember what sets the knot apart from all other options. It has a natural symmetry, and therefore an opportunity to create uniformity in the climbing system. Certain gestures create uniformity, so that the knot looks the same every time it is used:

• The symmetry of the knot is based on having all strands parallel to each other.

• The gap between the knot and the waist belt is the same size as the belay loop.

• The knot has a 6 inch tail. No longer no shorter.

Step 1: Tie the Figure 8

Tie the figure 8 knot first; the knot is tied by wrapping a tail of rope around a loop and then passing the tail into the loop.

Each time, try to perfect the amount of tail. Different rope diameters will require slightly different amounts of tail to complete the next steps, but 12-18 inches is usually adequate.

Step 2: Pass the tail of the rope through the harness

Pass the tail of the rope through both tie in points. Try to avoid passing the tail through the belay loop in the process. Pull the knot next to harness to begin the next step.

Step 3: Complete the follow through by retracing the original Figure 8 with the tail

Use the original Figure 8 as a road map and retrace each turn of the knot with the tail. It will be helpful to start on the outside of the knot. Each time the knot is tied, make an effort to keep all the strands parallel. There will be fewer steps to complete if the knot is simply well-dressed in the first place.

Step 4: Make any gestures needed to standardize the knot

The figure eight follow through should be tied with all strands parallel to each other. It should have a 6” tail, and the gap between the knot and the waist belt should be the same size as the belay loop.

The figure 8 follow through. Find a visual step-by-step from Climbing Magazine by clicking the image.

Fundamental Principles of Belay

Belaying has a long history. Innovated primarily in nautical applications, the earliest known belay techniques logically transferred to mountaineering, where climbers needed to a tool to secure each other during mountain travel. The fundamental principles that optimized the effectiveness of those early belay techniques have not changed. In fact, it is hard to imagine modern belaying without the standards and principles that preceded it.

The earliest belayers learned that in addition to the fundamental principles of belay they also needed to be attentive, vigilant, and take their responsibility to secure the climber very seriously. Today, that same attentiveness, vigilance, and seriousness should also characterize modern belaying.

Principle #1: A brake hand must be maintained at all times.

The earliest belayers quickly learned that relinquishing a firm grip on the brake strand of a belay system creates an opportunity for catastrophe. If the climber falls in the instance that brake strand is not being maintained, the accelerating fall and rapid movement of the rope is almost impossible to arrest. Accordingly, one hand must be holding the brake strand of the rope at all times.

Principle #2: Hand transitions should happen in the position of maximum friction.

Modern belay tools, and the body and terrain techniques that preceded them, use friction to enhance the grip strength of the belayer. The friction of a belay tool dissipates the amount of mass the belayer needs to hold, and then the belayer’s bodyweight or the anchor is used to arrest the climber’s fall. As a result, there are points in the belay cycle where there is a maximum amount of friction and a minimum of friction. In the sequence of belaying, a belayer will need to continually move slack through the belay system, so there is a continual sequence in the which the rope is moved the system, and then the brake hands adjust their position on the rope in order to move slack again. The time when the hands transition is one of the most vulnerable moments in the belay cycle, and during that time the rope should rest in a position of maximum friction while the hands reset.

View fullsize

Principle #3: The hands and limbs should be positioned ergonomically.

Pulling on the rope, pulling slack through a belay system, resting in the brake position, and sustaining a fall, all require belayer to use their bodies and joints in a repetitive and sometimes strenuous way. It is important that hands and limbs take advantage of the natural ergonomics of the belay system so that stamina, reactivity, and grip strength are optimized.

Tertiary Principles Specific to Rock Climbing

Back up belay(er)s are a valuable addition to any belay system. Another set of hands, another set of eyes, and a measure of redundancy are great ways to enhance the security of a belay. But, another person has not historically been a part of belaying. When available though, and especially when belayers are still learning, it can be a valuable principle to adopt.

Belayer’s grip strength and the amount of friction applied by a belay tool can be instantly negated if the belayer’s body mass does not provide an adequate counterweight to a climber. When a climber weighs more than 40% of a belayer’s body weight, it will start to be difficult for the belayer to avoid displacement. In these scenarios, adequate use of a ground anchor (for ballast) or friction on the rope system (through twists, wrapping an anchor bar, an adequate number of directionals, or the inherent friction of the rope running over the terrain) will be needed.

Climbers will need belayers to continually move slack out of the belay system, but they will also need belayers to pull all the stretch out of the rope at times, when the climber wants to rest on a tight rope for example. Due to this circumstance, belayers must become adept at not only belaying slack but belaying stretch as well. Belaying requires enough strength to pull latent elasticity out of the belay system so that the climber can rest without elongating the rope an inordinate amount.

Read more about the fundamentals of belaying and different belay techniques here.

The Belay System

When a climber understands the fundamental principles of belay, the belay system can be mastered. The belay system has four essential phases: The setup, communication and double checks, belaying and lowering, and termination.

The Setup

To setup a belay system, the climber and belayer will need to manage both ends of the rope; either by tying in with a figure 8 follow through or knotting the end of the rope. The belayer will need to select an appropriate belay tool, set it up correctly on the rope, and determine the need for a ground anchor. If an anchor is needed, that must also be set up.

Communication and Double Checks

A climber and a belayer are co-dependent. They must work as a team. So precise communication and double checks are an imperative part of their teamwork. The following communications should be learned and recited on every climb/belay:

“On Belay, [Name of Belayer]?” The belayer begins a vigilant, attentive, and serious administration of the belay system.

The climber displays their tie-in, harness, helmet, and climbing rope, while inspecting the belayer’s harness, belay setup, helmet, and ground anchor. The belayer checks the climber. When all these double checks are affirmed, the belayer can confidently continue to communicate.

“Belay on, [Name of Climber].”

“Climbing, [Name of Belayer].”

“Climb On, [Name of Climber].” The climber begins climbing.

“Got You, [Name of climber].” The belayer pulls all latent elasticity so that the climber can lean back and put weight on the rope.

“Ready to Lower, [Name of Belayer].” When the rope is tight, the climber leans back and relinquishes all body weight to the rope.

“Lowering, [Name of Climber].” When the climber is ready to lower, the belayer lowers the climber gently and smoothly to the ground.

“Off Belay, [Name of Belayer].”

“Belay Off, [Name of Climber].” If the climber is safe, firmly footed, and secure, there is no longer a need for belay, and the belay system can be deconstructed.

Conditional Communication

“Slack, [Name of Belayer].” The belayer provides one arm length of slack. If the climber requires more slack, they will request more.

“Up rope, [Name of belayer].” If the climber needs the belayer to move slack out of the belay, the “up rope” communication is given. In this circumstance the climber should also stop climbing until the slack is removed from the system.

“Tension, [Name of belayer].” The belayer pulls all latent elasticity so that the climber can lean back and put weight on the rope. Most commonly, this is so that the climber can rest.

“Rock!” If any object is falling, all those who observe the falling object call “Rock!”

To learn more about climber communication, check out this article.

When Double Checking

When the belayer and climber communicate, it is important to understand that the initial communication, “On Belay, [Name of Climber]?” is intentionally rendered in the form of a question. The climber is asking if the belay system is ready. Before the belayer can accurately and affirmatively reply, double checks are vital. The belayer must check the climber, and the setup of the belay system. The most vital items to double check are:

Buckles. Before leaving the ground, both the climber and belayer should demonstrate to each other that the buckles on their harnesses and helmets are secure (double-backed if appropriate) and tight.

Abdomen Fit (Harness Fit). A climber could fall out of a loose harness. Both the climber and belayer should inspect each other’s harnesses for proper fit. It is important that the harness is situated above the pelvis and that it is adequately tightened.

Rope. It is important to ensure that the rope is ready to use before the climber leaves the ground. Unwanted twists should be untwisted. When lots of ropes are set near each other, it is important to confirm that the climber and belayer are set up on the same rope. Both ends of the rope should be managed.

Belay Device. All belay devices have specific orientations that must be set up correctly. ABD’s should be loaded correctly, and plate/aperture/tube devices should be oriented so that the braking motion does not twist the belay loop.

Carabiner. The locking mechanism of a belay carabiner contributes to proper function and strength of the carabiner. If a belayer fails to lock the carabiner, it could create a dangerous situation when the climber loads the belay system. At the beginning of a climb, the belayer should demonstrate to the climber that the carabiner is locked by attempting to press the gate in.

Knot. The figure 8 follow through is used to directly connect the rope to a harness. If tied incorrectly, the result could be devastating. It is the climber and belayer’s responsibility to ensure that the climber has a properly tied knot which passes through both tie in points of the harness.

Belaying and Lowering

Once the belay system has been setup, the system has been double checked, and the climber and the belayer have communicated their roles clearly and unambiguously, the actual belaying, climbing, and eventually lowering is the next phase of the belay system.

A climber that is secured by a top rope from above will create slack, and the belay system should constantly remove slack. Additionally, when a climber wants to rest on the rope, when a fall is anticipated, or prior to lowering, belayers also need to remove any latent elasticity from the rope system.

A lead climber will need a steady supply of rope to clip the rope into incremental protection. While the fundamental principles of belay remain unchanged for this context, it is fundamentally different than top rope belaying in two ways. First, belaying a lead climber involves giving slack, not taking in slack. But, the belayer must be precise in the amount of slack given. The lead climber should have just enough slack to move and clip the rope, unencumbered. There should be no more or less slack given than the amount needed to accomplish this task. Second, a lead belayer sustains a higher impact force when a lead climber falls; they are often displaced by the dynamic forces of the lead climber’s fall. Such displacement cannot compromise the integrity of the belay. The fundamental principles must be adhered to, even when acting as a dynamic counterweight.

In most contexts, a climber will need to be eventually lowered from a climb. When lowering, the climber completely surrenders their body weight to the belay system, and the belayer is entirely responsible for delivering the climber safely to the ground. If the climber does not lean back entirely, the belayer cannot provide an effective lower.

Termination

Once the climber and the belayer are either safely anchored or safely situated on the ground, the final phase of the belay system is termination. It is important that the belayer remain vigilant, attentive, and serious until the belay system is terminated. When the climber is either safely anchored or firmly footed, the “Off Belay, [Name of Belayer]” command assures the belayer that the climber no longer requires the safety of the rope.

The belayer can respond, “Belay Off, [Name of Climber].” The only time a belay system should be terminated is when it is no longer needed. If a climber terminates a belay system, they should no longer require belaying, they should be safely situated on the ground, or they should be anchored.

Celebrating a successful climb. Photo: AAC Member Ron Funderburke.

Belaying a Top Rope

When the belayer is positioned at the bottom of a climb, an appropriate belay technique must adhere to the fundamental principles of belay. While there are a few acceptable techniques for doing so, a common and effective technique is popularly known as Pull-Brake-Under-Slide, or P.B.U.S.

P.B.U.S.

Pull-Brake-Under-Slide is the natural application of the fundamental principles of belay to a plate/aperture/tube device. In fact, when that tool was first innovated, it was the first time that belayers were forced to make a hand transition behind their belay tool. It was the first time that their hand positions changed from palm up to palm down.

PBUS has the added benefit of being easy to instruct, easy to belay latent elasticity, easy to accommodate an effective backup belay, easily transferable to other tools like an Assisted Braking Device.

As the acronym suggests, there are four steps. The belayer simultaneously pulls slack toward the belay device with the guide hand and through the device with the brake hand. If this movement is not coordinated, the rope will be difficult to move, or the plate/aperture/tube will pinch or grab, making the movement of the rope cumbersome.

Then, the belayer quickly moves the brake hand and brake strand to the brake position; the brake hand never relinquishes its grip from the rope. Next, the guide hand can pinch the rope under/behind the brake hand. The pinch provides enough resistance so that the brake had can slide forward again, never having relinquished its grip. These steps are constantly repeated as slack or elasticity are created by the climber’s progress. All four steps should constitute a terminal progression. In other words, a belayer should never pause in the middle of the sequence. If the climber is standing still, the belayer’s brake hand should be on the rope, in the braking plane, ready to initiate all four steps.

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When lowering, both the guide hand and the brake hand should clasp the brake strand, so that lowering offers the climber the security of both hands. The fundamental principles of belay apply when lower too. So, a belayer’s transitioning hands should be in the braking plane while lowering.

Using an ABD

While PBUS is a perfectly applicable belay technique when using an ABD (e.g. Petzl GriGri or Edelrid MegaJul), it is important to remember that the braking mechanics of an ABD are fundamentally different. The braking cam or extra grabbing of an ABD will grip the rope tightly, with a deceptive amount of reliability, when all the latent elasticity is removed from the belay system. Belayers can easily be confused by the notion of brake position or braking plane, because the device will appear be doing all the braking, irrespective of the position of the brake strand or even the brake hand. But, this kind of confusion is a deception and misapprehension of the ABD. The fundamental principles of belay also apply to an ABD. Accordingly, the PBUS technique is still a good one. The advantage of an ABD is that when it is used correctly, it is easier to pull all the latent elasticity out of the belay system. The ABD’s braking mechanism will make it more difficult for increments of slack to slip back toward the climber, so a tight and reassuring belay can always be offered.

When lowering, however, the braking mechanism must be deactivated. Usually, the guide hand opens the braking mechanism while the brake hand makes all of its transitions with a firm grip, in the position of maximum friction.

Belaying a Lead Climber

Belaying a lead climber requires a different belay technique than belaying a toprope. Both the plate/aperture/tube style device and the ABD are serviceable options, but they both require special attention when belaying a leader. In both cases, the fundamental principles of belay are applicable.

Using a Plate/Aperture/Tube

When belaying a leader, PBUS will not be a helpful belay technique, because of the need to steadily give slack to a lead climber. For lead belaying, the belayer should slide the brake hand back, sequestering a quantity of slack to be given to the leader. Then, the brake hand pushes slack toward the device while the guide hand feeds that slack to the climber. As a result, the lead belay is effected in arm length (or shorter) increments. If the leader is climbing at a rate that exceeds this arm-length increment, the belayer will not be able to provide an adequate supply of slack AND adhere to the fundamental principles of belay.

When a leader falls, even the strongest belayer, with the strongest grip, will allow some rope to slip through the belay device. This slippage is unavoidable when using a plate/aperture/tube device. As a result, lead belayers learn to grab to the brake strand with both hands when the leader falls. Doing so immediately arrests any further slippage of the belay system.

Using an ABD

When belaying a leader with an ABD, the braking cam, which was such an asset in the toprope belay, now poses a unique challenge to a belayer who often needs to supply slack readily, quickly, and in large amounts. When a lead climber is moving slowly and smoothly, without long clips or the need for large amounts of slack, the exact same technique deployed for a Plate/Aperture/Tube device will work, especially if the rope is smaller and smoother. But, it is common that lead climbers move quickly in certain sections; they make dynamic and leaping moves; they clip overhead from good holds. So, a lead belayer must learn to apply the fundamental principles of belay with a multi-tasking brake hand.

Learning to provide an attentive and vigilant brake hand, while asking single fingers to also stabilize the ABD and deactivate the braking cam, is a complex motor skill. It takes practice and care. But, when done properly large amounts of slack can be offered quickly and nimbly, while the brake hand faithfully grips the brake strand.

The multi-tasking brake must be able to grip the rope firmly, which is easy for most. Firm grips are used to catch falls and most users know how to grip tightly. But, the brake hand must also be able to grip the rope lightly. When gripping lightly, the brake hand is loose enough to slide rope, but never so loose as to release its vital connection. With a loosely gripped brake hand, the forefinger cups under the ABD, holding the ABD in a rigid position, while the thumb squeezes the cam, restricting the cam’s range of motion. The guide hand then flings slack to the climber at an appropriate rate.

The multi-tasking brake hand should take every opportunity to return to default to a dedicated position on the brake strand when the climber is not moving. Or, if the climber resumes moving more smoothly, a traditional lead belay technique can be reinstated.

Ground Anchors

Ground anchors provide ballast when there is a large weight discrepancy between a climber and a belayer. They are also valuable tools for stabilizing a novice belayer. In both cases, the rapid or violent displacement of the belayer can jeopardize the belay system. At the very least, an unexpected displacement makes it difficult for the belayer to focus on the fundamental principles of belay. So, ground anchors are something that any belayer may need, on occasion.

There a three parts to ground anchoring: the anchor, the connections, and the connector. For all three parts, there are a number of variations, but the essential role of each part is the same. The anchor provides enough mass to ballast the belayer; so a clump of backpacks, another person, a free weight, a living tree, or an arrangement of bolted floor anchors might suffice. Connections are the materials that connect the belayer to the anchor. Sometimes slings are used, sometimes PAS or daisy chains, sometimes chain link, sometimes the climbing rope itself. Lastly the connector is the tool or knot that connects the belayer or the anchor to the connection. Carabiners, quicklinks, or a series of knots or hitches are all common connectors.

Three common ground anchor arrangements are:

Using another person wearing a climbing harness as an anchor. The climbing rope with a figure 8 follow through connects the rope to the belayer and a clove hitch with locking carabiner connects the rope to the anchor.

Using floor bolt as an anchor, a PAS as a connection, and locking carabiners to connect the PAS to the belayer and the anchor.

Using a sandbag as a ground anchor, a 48” sling as a connection, and locking carabiners as connectors.

In all three cases the connection should be rigged such that line between the belayer and the top anchor is straight, in-line, and tight. Otherwise displacement can still occur. The position of the ground anchor is least disruptive when it is positioned on the belayer’s brake hand side.

Appendix 1: Third Party Reviewers, Testers, Endorsements, and Certifications

Different organizations ensure consistency in the safety standards and manufacturing processes of all the equipment related to belaying. Any climber and belay team should look for the following endorsements and certifications to guarantee that equipment used in a belay system is appropriate for climbing applications.

CEN. The CEN is the European Committee for Standardization. A product must receive approval by this committee before it can be sold in the European Union (EU). Climbing equipment will have a CE stamp, which indicates that the product meets the minimum requirement of the EU Personal Protective Equipment Directive. The CEN works directly with the UIAA to determine the strength and manufacturing requirements for PPE.

UIAA. The UIAA (International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) existed before the CEN was created. Climbers and mountaineers themselves develop the UIAA standards. The UIAA collaborates with CEN to create a consistency of standards. In some cases the UIAA calls for more testing than the CEN, which can makes their standards slightly more strict.  Equipment that has been approved by the UIAA has been appropriately embossed.

3-Sigma. 3-Sigma is a statistical testing standard that is used by climbing equipment manufactures to ensure consistent quality. In order to arrive at a 3-sigma rating, the standard deviation is taken from strength testing results, multiplied by 3 and then subtracted from the average. This process ensures that 99.87 percent of the products put on the market will be above the actual product rating. You will not find a 3-sigma stamp on PPE although many PPE manufactures use this process to ensure safety and quality of their products.

ISO. ISO is a non-governmental, international organization that works with manufacturers to develop approaches to consistency in product manufacturing. The ISO 9000 series in part applies to climbing related activities. Rather than actually rating the product, ISO instead works to ensure a consistent manufacturing process. If a company is compliant with ISO it means that every single “x” style carabiner will be identical when they reach the market. You won’t find an ISO stamp on PPE although many climbing equipment manufactures comply with ISO to ensure consistency of their products.

Appendix 2: Additional Equipment and Ropework

Helmets

A high number of climbing related accidents and deaths are due to falling debris. It is extremely important to use climbing helmets to minimize this risk. Climbing helmets are specifically designed to protect the skull by absorbing the force of falling debris (such as rocks, ice, or dropped equipment). They were originally designed much like the hard hats that you see construction workers use. The climbing helmet has since evolved to become lighter, stronger, and more efficient. In indoor climbing, most of the risk of falling debris has been mitigated, even though objects are routinely dropped, holds break and fall, and climbers can easily impact each other is some circumstances. Nevertheless, the choice to not wear a helmet inside seems common and accident rates due to falling debris are low.

Outdoors, however, falling debris is more unpredictable and difficult to manage. The size of things that fall can also be catastrophically large. Accordingly, helmet use outside is strongly advised and recommended in this curriculum.

Extra Grabbing Plate/Aperture/Tube Devices

There are a number of plate/aperture/tube devices available that give very reliable lead belays even with an inconsistent application of the fundamental principles of belay.

Devices like the Mammut Alpine SMART or the Edelrid MegaJul can be wise additions to a lead belayer’s repertoire. However, a quick perusal of the manufacturers suggested use confirms that even these extra grabbing and reliable tools are still held to the same fundamental principles of belay that apply to all other belay methods. While devices of this kind may one day reform the fundamental principles of belay, Mammut and Edelrid currently make it quite clear they have not yet done so. See the manufacturer’s suggested use for specific instructions.

Clove Hitch

The clove hitch is an excellent hitch for attaching a climbing rope to a ground anchor.

Girth Hitch

The girth hitch is a common way to attach a sling or PAS to a belayer’s harness. While the girth hitch has severe penalties due to it effect on material strength, slings and PAS are strong enough to sustain the destructive effects of the girth hitch. Usually, however, the use of a locking carabiner can be substituted for a girth hitch, making the carabiner a less consequential option.

2016 Annual Benefit Dinner Reca

Over 400 people gathered in Washington, D.C., at the historic Mayflower Hotel for the American Alpine Club’s 2016 Annual Benefit Dinner presented by REI and The North Face. Legendary climbers of all generations, from Kai Lightner to Conrad Anker, mingled with politicians like Secretary of the Interior Sally Jewell and National Park Service Director Jon Jarvis, filling the room in support of the Club and climbing in America. The dinner celebrated the members of our community that we have recently lost and the enduring bonds that we create in the mountains and at the crag, serving as a powerful reminder of why we climb.

Secretary of the Interior Jewell took the stage to honor the memory of former AAC President Doug Walker, who passed away in a hiking accident in the Cascades in December. She praised Walker’s love of the outdoors and his dedication to creating ways for others to get outside themselves. Jewell concluded with the promise of expediting the permit process for those geared at getting kids outside. While she joked the lawyers called it the order for "Increasing Access to Extended Outdoor Experiences for Under-Resourced Youth," she said would affectionately refer to it as the Walker Permit.

Online Exhibit: 1966 American Antarctic Mountaineering Expedition

Fifty years ago, a team of 10 American men made the daring first ascents of six of Antarctica’s tallest peaks, including Vinson Massif. The AAC will honor the 1966 team for their landmark accomplishments in Antarctica with the President’s Gold Medal at the 2016 Annual Benefit Dinner on February 27.

Our latest exhibit documents the expedition and celebrates the daring achievements of team members Nicholas Clinch, Barry Corbet, John Evans, Eiichi Fukushima, Charley Hollister, Bill Long, Brian Marts, Pete Schoening, Samuel Silverstein, and Richard Wahlstrom.

2016 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Award Winners Announced

January 4, 2016, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is excited to announce its 2016 Lyman Spitzer Cutting Edge Awards. This grant, made possible by the generous support of Lyman Spitzer Jr., promotes state-of-the-art, cutting edge climbing through financial support of small, lightweight climbing teams attempting bold first ascents or difficult repeats of the most challenging routes in the world.

"The committee was especially impressed with this year's objectives and team strengths," commented committee chair Paul Gagner. “The two teams below represent the spirit and intent of the award and the AAC is very happy to support their dreams." 

The two Shagrilas - Chris Wright & Tico Gangulee will travel to the Kullu Himalaya in India to fill in blanks on the map. The team has several objectives, all unclimbed. According to one US climber who saw the peak on a 2011 ski expedition, “I have no idea if this peak has a name or not but it was drop dead gorgeous. I just remember thinking the potential for rad alpine climbs up this valley would be endless." 

Unclimbed, often tried Link Sar - Rob Duncan, Jesse Mease, Marcos Costa will travel to the head of the Charakusa glacier in the Pakistan Karakoram, with two objectives in mind. The first and primary objective is the still unclimbed 7,041 meter summit of Link Sar, a complex and stunning peak. After this ascent the team will move to the Choktoi Glacier to climb Ogre II via the NE ridge a route attempted and climbed this past year to just below the summit. The AAC and Spitzer committee wish both teams good luck. 

The AAC offers numerous grants with differing criteria, from the locally administered Live Your Dream grants, to mountain fellowship grants for climbers under the age of 25, as well as Cornerstone Conservation grants that keep our local climbing areas healthy. For a full list of grants visit the American Alpine Club website at americanalpineclub.org/grants. 

American Alpine Club President Doug Walker Dies in Avalanche

January 1, 2016, Golden, CO—American Alpine Club President Douglas Walker died Thursday, December 31, 2015 in an avalanche on Granite Mountain in the Cascades. Doug Walker, 64, of Seattle, went missing Thursday afternoon while hiking with friends. Details surrounding the accident are still being learned.

“Doug Walker's leadership at the AAC was the secret weapon that cemented the Club as one that welcomes and represents all climbers. He led the capital campaign that funded our growth and stepped from that directly into leading our board with strength and grace," said Phil Powers Chief Executive Officer of the American Alpine Club and and long-time colleague of Walker. “He was not only a mentor and adviser for me; he was a climbing partner and friend."

Doug was a climber for more than 40 years. Doug has a serious commitment to conservation of mountain landscapes and promotion of the climbing way of life. In his professional life he co-founded and managed a mid-sized world-wide software company for 25 years. Doug served as a Director of REI for 12 years and was Chair of REI from 2005–2008. As an REI Director, he played an important role in addressing the “fixed anchor" crisis in 1998. 

In addition to serving as President of the American Alpine Club, Doug was a chairman of the Wilderness Society, a director of the Conservation Lands Foundation and was an Advisory Council Member for the National Parks Conservation Association and the Land Trust Alliance. In his spare time, Doug volunteered as a climbing instructor for the YMCA's BOLD program. 

Memorial contributions may be made to the Doug Walker Fund through the American Alpine Club: www.americanalpineclub.org/donate.

Alex Honnold is Keynote Speaker for 2016 Annual Benefit Dinner

December 1, 2015, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is proud to announce Alex Honnold—one of climbing's most recognizable talents—as the keynote speaker for the 2016 AAC Annual Benefit Dinner, presented by REI and The North Face, honoring 100 years of climbing in our National Parks.

Honnold will speak February 27th, 2016, at The Mayflower hotel, located at 1127 Conneticut Avenue North West in Washington, DC. Honnold has forever changed our perspective of the possible with feats like the iconic Fitz Roy Traverse and a 24-hour sprint on the Yosemite Triple Crown. Alex leads a new generation of cutting edge climbers, especially in Yosemite National Park.

The festivities are open to the public and kick off on Friday, February 26th with the Annual Membership Meeting and Climbers' Gathering at Earth Treks Rockville. Open to everyone, the evening will include a food truck, DJ, libations, and awards.Dinner attendees will have access to special panel discussions and seminars during the day on Saturday.

The main event the night of the 27th will gather all generations for an unprecedented climbers' celebration in D.C. In addition to Honnold's keynote address, attendees will enjoy fine dining, beer and wine, live and silent auctions, and awards—including the rare President's Gold Medal—will be given honoring climbing's luminaries and rising stars. All proceeds benefit AAC programs.

Tickets are very limited. For more information and to reserve your spot, visit americanalpineclub.org/honnold. Registration closes on February 19, or when sold out.

2015 Anchor Replacement Fund Recipients Announced

Access Fund and American Alpine Club Announce First Round of Anchor Replacement Fund Grant Awards

October 14, 2015, Golden, CO —The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the first-ever grant round for the new Anchor Replacement Fund. During this round, we have awarded a total of $10,000 to seventeen anchor replacement projects across the country. The new grant program was launched earlier this year to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80s and 90s are aging, and there is an immediate need to address inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts. This program is made possible by the generous support of Climb Tech, Petzl, and Trango. We are pleased to announce funding for the following worthy projects.

AAC Colorado Climbing Posse
We are pleased to award funding to the AAC Colorado Climbing Posse to support fixed anchor replacement in Clear Creek Canyon, one of the most popular Colorado Front Range climbing areas. The project will focus on High Wire, a popular crag that receives a lot of climber traffic. A team of experienced anchor replacement volunteers will lead the effort, and priority will be given to replacing top-anchors then selected protection bolts.

Boise Climber's Alliance
Boise Climber's Alliance (BCA) was awarded funding to support their fixed anchor replacement project at Black Cliffs and Short Cliffs in southern Idaho, outside of Boise. BCA will focus their work on worn and outdated top-anchors and protection bolts. BCA is a grassroots local climbing organization working to steward and protect Boise area climbing resources.

Boulder Climbing Community
Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to support long-term bolt replacement work in Colorado's Boulder Canyon, an area with more than 2,000 routes. BCC intends to replace bolts in the most sustainable fashion possible by removing and reusing holes, as well as installing hardware that is replaceable for the next generation.

Clifton Climber's Alliance
We are pleased to award funding to Clifton Climber's Alliance (CCA) to support their efforts to replace all non-stainless or inadequate hardware at Eagle Bluff in central Maine. Their work will update more than 70 fixed anchors with ½" stainless steel bolts. Last year CCA and Access Fund worked together to acquire and permanently protect Eagle Bluff.

Climbing Association of Southern Arizona
Climbing Association of Southern Arizona (CASA) was awarded funding to support a long-term anchor replacement project on Mt. Lemmon, a vast climbing area with thousands of routes. CASA will focus its efforts on the mountain's most popular, high-traffic routes. CASA maintains a successful working partnership with Coronado National Forest, who owns and manages Mt. Lemmon.

Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont
We are pleased to award funding to Climbing Resource Access Group of Vermont (CRAG-VT) to support ongoing anchor replacement work at Bolton Valley crags. Volunteers will focus on re-using old bolt holes whenever possible and will replace outdated or inappropriate hardware with sustainable, long-lasting glue-in bolts. CRAG-VT is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation of Vermont's climbing resources.

East Idaho Climber's Coalition
East Idaho Climber's Coalition (EICC) was awarded funding to support ongoing fixed anchor replacement work at Massacre Rocks. Their project will tackle replacement of aging, outdated hardware on 50 of the area's most popular routes at crags like Le Petite Covette, All American Area, and Red Light District.

East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to East Tennessee Climbers' Coalition (ETCC) to support their ongoing anchor replacement work in the Obed Wild and Scenic River area of Tennessee. ETCC has already replaced 300 of an estimated 4,000 fixed anchors in the Obed. The grassroots organization maintains a longstanding partnership with Obed's National Park Service managers, performing a wide variety of stewardship work through their annual Adopt a Crag event.

Friends of Pinnacles
Friends of Pinnacles (FoP) was awarded funding to support ongoing anchor replacement work in California's Pinnacles National Park. Founded in 1989, FoP has maintained a successful working partnership with land managers at Pinnacles, working to address climbing access, stewardship, education, and fixed anchors. Since 1991, FoP has replaced more than 500 bolts in the Pinnacles by hand drill, in compliance with land management policy.

Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition
We are pleased to award funding to Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition (NCCC) to support replacement of high-use top-rope anchors at Cat's Eye and Bolt Wall at Horsetooth Reservoir in Colorado. Funding will also support NCCC's ongoing replacement work at other Ft. Collins-area crags. NCCC is a leading grassroots local climbing organization, protecting and stewarding the many climbing resources of Colorado's northern Front Range.

North Idaho Climbers Alliance
North Idaho Climbers Alliance (NICA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement at Laclede, a popular crag especially suited to beginning climbers. Work will focus specifically on the Red Wall, Upper Main Wall, Lower Main Wall, and West End Cliff. NICA is a grassroots local climbing organization focusing on climbing stewardship in Idaho's panhandle.

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative
We are pleased to award funding to the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRG FGI) to support their ongoing work to replace rusty, aging fixed anchors throughout the Red River Gorge. RRG FGI is a grassroots organization that partners with the climbing industry, local community, and route equippers to ensure fixed anchors in Red River Gorge are of the highest standard.

Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Climbers Association (RCA) was awarded funding to support replacement of worn top-anchors on Rumney's extremely popular routes. RCA will utilize stainless steel pig-tail systems as a more sustainable solution for high-use top-anchors that are wearing far too quickly. Rumney is owned and managed by White Mountain National Forest, and RCA maintains a strong and successful partnership with them.

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to support anchor replacement in Big Cottonwood Canyon. The project builds off of SLCA's recent success in American Fork, where they upgraded anchors on 28 popular routes. The work in Big Cottonwood will be coordinated by SLCA's new Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative, which is also working on a Wasatch Best Practices Handbook to address important considerations for anchor replacement and route development in their area.

Southern Utah Climber's Association
We are pleased to award funding to the Southern Utah Climber's Association (SUCA) for ongoing anchor replacement work in Utah Hills climbing areas. SUCA's work will cover crags such as Black and Tan, Kelly's Rock, Gorilla, Simean Complex, and Soul Asylum. SUCA is a local climbing organization that leads regular stewardship and partnership projects with the BLM. The group has already helped replace over 800 anchors in the St. George region.

Telluride Mountain Club
Telluride Mountain Club (TMC) in Colorado was awarded funding to support anchor replacement projects at Ophir Wall and Cracked Canyon, some of Telluride's most historic climbing areas. Replacement work will be coordinated through TMC's Anchor Replacement Committee. TMC works to preserve and enhance public access to human-powered recreation including hiking, backcountry skiing and boarding, mountaineering, climbing, and other mountain-related recreation.

Washington State Anchor Replacement Project
We are pleased to award funding to Washington State Anchor Replacement Project (WARP) to support ongoing anchor replacement work across Washington State. WARP presently focuses their efforts in the Seattle metro region at areas like Little Si, Exit 38, and Index, as well as in the Cascades at areas such as Leavenworth, Washington Pass, and Stuart Range.

The American Alpine Club and the Access Fund Launch Anchor Replacement Fund

August 17, 2015, Golden, CO— The Access Fund and the American Alpine Club are proud to announce a joint grant program available to local climbing organizations and anchor replacement groups seeking funding for fixed anchor replacement at climbing areas across the United States. By partnering on this program, the nation's two national non-profit climbing organizations are filling a need unmet by their existing climbing conservation grants—replacing fixed anchors at local crags. This grant program is made possible by corporate support from ClimbTech, Petzl, and Trango.

"Across the United States, bolts installed in the 80's and 90's are aging, and there are growing concerns of anchor failure, incidents, and access issues," says Access Fund Executive Director Brady Robinson. “While bolting standards continue to evolve, there is an immediate need to address aging and inadequate fixed anchors and increase support for local and national partners leading these efforts."

American Alpine Club Executive Director Phil Powers adds: “As the American climbing community grows, it's critical that we partner to keep climbers safe. We owe it to future generations of climbers to maintain and steward all of our resources, including fixed anchors."

Earlier this year, the Access Fund and American Alpine Club released a joint policy on fixed anchors, which gives land managers, agency officials, and partner organizations in the climbing community a clear and consistent policy regarding the placement, maintenance, and management of fixed anchors for technical climbing. This new grant program is based on those same collaborative principles, and the Access Fund and American Alpine club encourage applicants to employ best practices for anchor replacement and demonstrate support from their local climbing community.

Fixed anchors are necessary tools for climbing and some level of fixed anchor use and replacement shall be allowed wherever climbing is allowed, and the appropriate level of use should be established on an area-by-area basis.

The Anchor Replacement Fund will further support the great work that organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association and numerous local climbing organizations have accomplished over the years. They have made significant investments and progress in anchor replacement, and we are excited to join this effort and hope that the Anchor Replacement Fund can help extend the reach of these initiatives.

The inaugural Anchor Replacement Fund application round is now open, and applications are due by September 15. A joint committee made up of experts from both organizations and the anchor replacement community will manage the review process. Grant guidelines and forms can be found on both organizations' websites and questions and applications can be directed to [email protected].

About the Access Fund

The Access Fund is the national advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Founded in 1991, the Access Fund supports and represents millions of climbers nationwide in all forms of climbing: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering, and bouldering. Six core programs support the mission on national and local levels: climbing policy and advocacy, stewardship and conservation, local support and mobilization, land acquisition and protection, risk management and landowner support, and education. For more information, visit www.accessfund.org.