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K2 1938: The First American Karakoram Expedition

AAC News

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THE NEXT PITCH: PRACTICAL BETA ON CLIMBING IN THE COVID ERA

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Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer the following Guiding Principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

Guiding Principles:

  • Be respectful of rural gateway communities, and avoid traveling to these areas.

  • Follow federal, state, county, and city health emergency guidelines and recommendations.

  • Recreate close to home, don't travel to climb.

  • Take cues from your local land managers and climbing organizations.

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative. Climbing accidents will place further stress on first responders, search and rescue teams, and hospital staff.

  • Be kind, respectful, and patient with one another during this time. We all want to feel safe spending time outside; let's work together to create an environment that allows this.

Should I go climbing?

If you feel confident that you can safely climb in your area, keep the following questions in mind before heading to the crag.

Do I feel sick or have reason to believe I've recently been exposed to COVID-19?

  • Do not go climbing if you are feeling sick!

  • You may be a carrier of COVID-19 without experiencing symptoms—be sure to make decisions based on the most vulnerable members of our community.

Who should I climb with?

  • Climb with people from your own home. If you can't do this, consider climbing with just one partner.

Where should I climb?

  • Individual counties may adopt more protective standards than others—check local regulations before deciding where to travel.

  • Comply with all local climbing organization and land management guidelines.

  • Restrict your travel and climb close to home. Avoid going to vulnerable rural or gateway communities.

What should I do if I choose a crag close to home, and when I arrive, it's packed with people?

  • Have a plan B, or even plan C. If you get to the crag, and it's too crowded to maintain social distancing guidelines, head to another spot.

  • Consider the conditions of your approach—is it vulnerable to erosion or damage if you have to leave the trail to maintain six feet of distance?

What can I do when I get to the crag to protect myself, my partner, and others?

  • Keep your outdoor objectives conservative.

  • Practice frequent hand sanitation before, during, and after a session.

  • Treat the rock and gear as you would surfaces in town. 

  • Wear a mask when near others.

  • Avoid putting climbing gear in your mouth—your rope as you pull slack to clip, for example.

How else can I help?

  • Not everyone will be able to return to climbing at the same time. If you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to safely climb in your area, be considerate of those who can't.

  • Continue to practice Leave No Trace principles.

  • If you’re financially able to, support your local climbing organization.

Thank you for continuing to lead with responsible decision-making in your local climbing community.

A MESSAGE FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

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To the American Alpine Club Community,

Our world has been radically impacted by COVID-19. And, this week, it hit home for us in Golden. 

Yesterday, we placed nearly a quarter of our valued employees on furlough. The senior leadership team and I were brought to this decision after thorough and thoughtful forecasting and budget cuts.

With our operations and revenues limited for an unknown period, we have chosen a path which will see the AAC through the next months to a position of continued strength. Included in this plan is the furlough of several of our full-time team members. These employees will continue to receive full medical benefits for the duration of the furlough. In addition to these steps, my senior leadership team and I have taken temporary salary reductions, and we have suspended matching contributions to 403(b) retirement plans for all staff.  

I do not take these decisions lightly. Caring for our team is paramount. Climbing is a driving force in my life; I know it is for many of you. The AAC’s mission and goals are deeply fulfilling, but it is the people I work with—including those we will miss over these next weeks— who make our work so satisfying. 

Over the last six weeks, we've navigated a fraught and changing landscape with the priority of furthering our mission, protecting our people, and supporting our community. In early March, we closed our Golden offices and asked our team to work safely from home. With the disease spreading across the nation, we pivoted our Annual Benefit Dinner to a virtual event, and our community united together for an evening of reflection and celebration. In the last month, we've continued to foster community within climbing through our new Give a Belay, Get a Belay initiative and Clubhouse Live series. 

During this period of change, AAC staff members have also called hundreds of members, volunteers, and donors to check in and let you know that we care. Not surprisingly, you have responded in kind, rallying in support of each other and our Club, reminding us that this community is our greatest strength.

Thank you.

The hard choices we have made this week will allow the AAC to weather a difficult time while maintaining our core operations, and our ability to deliver on our promise to all members.

At its core, the American Alpine Club is strong. The mission and values that bind our 25,000 members across generations and backgrounds—and that tie us to the mountains—are as compelling and urgent as ever. The challenges we face are significant. Our efforts—and success—never more important.

I want to share a deep thank you from staff, the board, and dedicated volunteers for the support that you continue to offer to us and to each other. I know you’ll agree that in climbing and the Club we share something sustaining. In difficult times, I know I am thankful for what I’ve learned in the mountains.

Be prudent, be thoughtful and keep yourselves on a path to feeling good in the vertical world when that time comes.

I am honored to share this Club with you.

Sincerely yours,

Phil Powers

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POLICY UPDATES IN THE ERA OF COVID

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COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

Read the full article to find out about the issues to have on your radar.

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Give a Belay, Get a Belay

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What can 25,000 members do to support each other? How many many fellow members can we support in this time of crisis?

We’ve created a network for AAC members who are part of the at-risk population, or are currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, to get a belay (a grocery run, a pharmacy stop, etc.) from fellow members in the area with the capacity to help.

GIVE A BELAY

If you’re an AAC member who has the capacity to help, fill out this form. Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

GET A BELAY

Are you an AAC member who is currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, or part of the at-risk population? Do you need help with a grocery or pharmacy run? Fill out this form, email us at [email protected], or call us at 303-384-0110 to get a belay from a fellow member.

Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

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NEW! Clubhouse Live, a virtual events series

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Introducing the dynamic new events series from our couch to yours!

While we all adjust to new normals, the AAC is creating a new way to connect: Clubhouse Live, a virtual weekly gathering hosted by members of our community. It’s a chance for us to come together from our homes, to learn something new, and to meet our fellow climbers. We don’t have to share a rope to share the stoke—climb on into the Clubhouse!

Coming Up:

  • Chelsea Rude, Tuesday, March 31 at 6pm MST

  • Brette Harrington with Madaleine Sorkin + the Climbing Grief Fund, Thursday, April 9 at 6pm MST

United We Climb, Virtually

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CLIMBERS: TAKE ACTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUS

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Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer a set of guiding principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

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Dear Friends, 

The COVID-19 pandemic is unprecedented and impacts us all. Our community must act thoughtfully to “flatten the curve” to reduce transmissions of the virus over time.

We are concerned about transmission of COVID-19 to rural or gateway communities. These remote towns often have limited access to medical facilities and their closely-knit, interconnected social structures are more prone to the spread of infection. 

Please keep places like Bishop, Fayetteville, Moab, Springdale, and Slade as safe as possible by limiting recreation-based travel at this time. If you have a trip planned, please reschedule until we are through this health emergency. This is not the time to head to the desert or rally to your favorite national park for “social distancing.” While outdoor time is necessary for each of us during this turbulent period, we need to stay local and limit our interaction with vulnerable communities.

 Consider also keeping outdoor objectives conservative to reduce the load on the medical system. Backcountry emergencies contribute to overloading hospitals and potential shortages of ventilators in intensive care units. As always, be safe out there and mindful of unnecessary risks.

Finally, we all should follow the directions outlined in the CDC’s guide on how to keep yourself and others safe from the virus. It’s necessary that we as a climbing community make decisions from the perspective of the most vulnerable people in our community.

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The AAC is certain that the climbing community can be a part of the solution to COVID-19 by taking collective action now.

Respectfully, 

Your Club

PS—Learn about updates to our lodging facilities in light of COVID-19.

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LODGING CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

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Karuna Mira Sah photo.

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

We understand that our shared outdoor places are more important than ever. In an effort to protect local communities and follow state and national recommendations, as of March 17, all AAC facilities will remain closed to the public and to members. Additionally, we will be closing primitive camping at all facilities. Reservations are open for dates after May 8 (June 6 for GTCR). Refunds and modifications will be made without penalty for dates prior to April 30. As the situation relaxes or progresses, dates are subject to change. We appreciate your support, adaptability, and understanding during this time.

We encourage you to find local trails, hikes, and rides, or whatever you may have access to—a walk in the park, a run with your dog. Maintain appropriate distances from others you may encounter (at least six feet), wash your hands frequently, continue to leave no trace, breathe fresh air, and be grateful for the wild places we have.  

During this pandemic we encourage folks to stay local. Traveling puts everyone around us at risk. Many of the communities we travel to for our outdoor pursuits are small, isolated, and unexposed. Many of them may not have the medical or financial resources to mitigate COVID-19. So, please stay home. Play in the yard. Find ways to be a good steward to your local community, not just your climbing community. If you’re able, purchase gift cards online from local businesses and donate to mutual aid programs to help those out of work. If you’re extra able, please donate to us! We are keeping up the good fight—educating climbers and focusing on policy to keep our wild places wild. 

Soon, we will all be outside together again!


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ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

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We will host the upcoming Annual Benefit Dinner virtually on Saturday, March 14 at 5 p.m. MDT, the in-person gathering is cancelled.

In an effort to lead in good decision-making as citizens of a country that is facing a potential crisis, we believe it is important to avoid contributing to that risk. We feel strongly that this is the responsible decision to protect the folks in our community who may be most vulnerable to the COVID-19 virus.

We are disappointed we won’t be seeing you all in person, but we still need your virtual presence and support this week!

Please stay tuned this week for a link to the live-stream feed, which will include a message from our keynote speaker Kris Tompkins, acceptance speeches from our 2020 awardees, and a special address from CEO Phil Powers.

The Annual Dinner is our largest fundraiser of the year. As we face increasing threats to our wild places and work to support a growing climbing population and volunteer network, we depend on this now-virtual event to help raise over $350,000 to fund our critical programs. 

We hope you will choose to stand with the AAC community from wherever you are to help ensure we reach our crucial goal. Thank you!

Please reach out to our team with any questions.

Heidi McDowell, Event Director [[email protected]]

Scott Wilton, Event Coordinator [[email protected]]

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AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

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The AAC is pleased to announce the 2020 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

February, 2020, Golden, CO—T​he American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

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AAC and the Climbing Grief Fund Announce Grief Grants

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The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the ​Climbing Grief Grant​ is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a ​mental health directory​ to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

learn more about the Grief Fund, or apply for a grant.

February 18, 2020, Golden, CO—The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a mental health directory to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

Applicants may apply online for the Climbing Grief Grant. All applications will remain confidential.

The Climbing Grief Fund acts as a hub to connect individuals to effective mental health professionals and resources. CGF is working to evolve the conversation around grief and trauma in the climbing, alpinism, and ski mountaineering community.

The Climbing Grief Fund was founded in 2018 by professional climber Madaleine Sorkin after a series of tragedies in her community. Sorkin currently directs the CGF.

“Offsetting some of the cost of therapy for individuals impacted by climbing-related tragedy was the original idea that pulled me into starting CGF,” Sorkin said, “so it’s exciting for me to see these grants become a reality. The grants are a concrete service that we can provide for our community and my hope is that our community quickly uses them up and CGF secures funding to offer more in 2020.”

Sorkin is curious how well her community will take to using these grants and whether demand will exceed the 15 budgeted annually. Through increased donations, the Climbing Grief Fund would like to offer more of these unique grants and continue to expand their programming. Currently, CGF programming includes Climbing Grief Grants, Story Archive Project, Mental Health Directory and Resources, and Psychoeducation Workshops. The Story Archive Project contains CGF’s filmed interviews with community members about the impact of grief and loss and how the individual is moving forward.

An original film called The Color of Mourning b rings together these interviews and will premiere on April 23 at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.

To learn more about CGF and to donate, please visit https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund.

Thank you for your support of the American Alpine Club, the Climbing Grief Fund, and this important program.

AAC Retains Search Firm to Help Find Next CEO

Photo: Garrett Grove

Photo: Garrett Grove

On behalf of the American Alpine Club's Board of Directors, we want to update you on the search for the organization’s next CEO and the steps being taken to hire the best candidate to lead the Club forward.

We are pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

 Thanks to our search committee made up of board members Deanne Buck, Steve Swenson, Mark Butler, Peter Metcalf, David Landman, Kevin Duncan, Len Necefer, Graham Zimmerman and Jen Bruursema. Their time and dedication to the Club is reflected in the work so far and will undoubtedly secure a tremendous CEO.

January 27, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding leaders for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

After AAC CEO Phil Powers announced in the fall of 2019 that he would be stepping down in Summer 2020, the AAC Board of Directors created a CEO Search Committee dedicated to finding the Club’s next leader. Search Committee members Jen Bruursema, Deanne Buck, Mark Butler, Kevin Duncan, David Landman, Peter Metcalf, Len Necefer, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman selected Koya Partners after a competitive process that drew proposals from leading national firms.

“Given the growth and broad reach of all forms of climbing and love for the mountains, we feel it is important for the Search Committee to consider a pool of candidates that reflects the community,” Committee Chair Deanne Buck said. “Koya’s commitment to helping their clients achieve their missions by providing customized, strategic, and innovative services and support for acquiring and retaining exceptional talent, aligns squarely with AAC’s focus in hiring our next CEO.”

The role of the search firm is to engage a multitude of stakeholders to create a Candidate Profile, identify and attract qualified candidates, and work with the Search Committee to interview and select the right hire to lead their client organizations into the future.

To date, the AAC CEO Search Committee, in partnership with Koya, has prioritized early effective methods for broad and inclusive consultation and stakeholder engagement with the climbing community. This input will inform the Candidate Profile that the AAC Board hopes to announce early February, with the completion of the search and announcement of next AAC CEO in summer 2020.

2020 ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER WEEKEND: CLIMBERS UNITING FOR THE PLANET

December 5, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club will host the 2020 Annual Benefit Dinner (ABD) weekend March 13-15, 2020 in Denver, Colorado. Since 1902, the Annual Benefit Dinner has served to convene the climbing community and garner support for the Club’s work around the protection of our wild places.

“Reductions to public lands generally lead to irreversible change. With climbing’s continued growth there is a tremendous amount of work that still needs to be done to protect and preserve our climbing landscapes,” stated AAC CEO Phil Powers. “It’s important to me that my final dinner at the helm sets the Club up to continue this hard work.”

 This year’s ABD will be presented by Patagonia and will feature a keynote by Kris McDivitt Tompkins, Former CEO of Patagonia and current president of Tompkins Conservation. Kris is a longstanding defender of wild places and a true champion for the planet.  

Kris will speak March 14, 2020, at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts (1101 13th St, Denver, CO 80204). She and her late husband Doug Tompkins turned millions of acres across Chile and Argentina into National Parks in an effort to restore and re-wild landscapes. Most recently, Kris completed the largest private land donation in history, with over one million acres going towards creating or expanding ten national parks in Chile. To date, Tompkins Conservation has helped conserve more than 14.2 million acres. 

The Annual Benefit weekend festivities will kick off Friday, March 13, at 6pm with the Send ‘n’ Social at Movement RiNo (3201 Walnut St, Denver, CO 80205). The Send ‘n’ Social includes games, libations, and a celebrity climbing competition. Saturday morning’s special panel discussions and presentations at the Hilton Denver City Center will be informational and inspiring sessions on topics ranging from public land issues to climate change. All weekend festivities surrounding the Dinner are open to the public.  

The main event of the weekend—the Annual Benefit Dinner—begins at 6pm on the 14th. In addition to Kris' keynote address, the AAC will honor climbers with the 2020 Climbing Awards, enjoy dinner, a complimentary bar, and silent and live auctions. Climbing Awardees will be announced January 2020. To learn more or buy tickets for this rare opportunity to hear from Kris McDivitt Tompkins, visit: americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-dinner

 

About the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

 

 

NEW! AAC Memberships for Active Duty Military Members and Veterans

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

The Club has recently launched a discounted membership for active-duty military members and veterans!

You can access veterans or military discount in your members profile when you renew, or on our website when you join!

We know service doesn’t stop when the uniform comes off. Did you know that veterans are among the most active volunteers working to improve our communities? U.S. Army Major Byron Harvison, life-long climber, AAC Salt Lake City Chapter Chair and active-duty military member is one of many examples. Major Harvison has played an instrumental role in our Hill-to-Crag events which unite veterans, active military members, AAC volunteers, state offices of outdoor recreation, and local, state, and national policymakers to connect via a day of rock climbing.

“Coming back from my tours overseas, I felt a continued need to serve. When I saw what the AAC was doing with education, land stewardship, and public policy, I wanted to get involved… The Hill to Crag events I organize include military members and veterans. It’s a way to get the veteran community engaged and give them a seat at the table. It’s a great fit: a lot of veterans I know love taking people outside and helping them stay active and fit.”
— U.S. Army Major Bryon Harvison
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AAC CEO Highlighted in New Film

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Photo: Chipsa House

Photo: Chipsa House

Our CEO Phil Powers summited K2 without oxygen and has a first ascent on Denali, but it was a simple climb on his lunch break that left him with the biggest challenge of his life following a miscommunication and a 70-foot fall. Watch the film below.

“There is no single moment that defines your life. To be grateful, to live in the moment, to love everybody you can, try to give back... [an accident like Phil’s] definitely wakes you up.”
— Sarah Pierce

AAC's Guidebook to Membership is Here

Cover photo by Drew Smith.

Cover photo by Drew Smith.

Our 2019 Guidebook to Membership is here! The Guidebook serves as a storyboard and yearbook as well as a literal guidebook to Club member benefits. The majority of each issue is dedicated to member photos and stories, working to define (and redefine) the ever-changing faces of American climbing and the Club that serves to unite them. From mountain art to community issues to conservation and advocacy stories, the Guidebook covers many important topics from a unique member-perspective. So, flip on through and get inspired. You might even find a new discount that you didn't even know you had.

Some stories we’re particularly excited about this year include:

  • Art for the In-Betweens: Artist Spotlight, by Brooklyn Bell

  • Navajo Rising: An Indigenous Emergence Story, by Aaron Mike

  • Glacial Views: A Climate Scientist Reflects, by Seth Campbell

  • 1Climb, Infinite Potential: Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building them

  • On Pushing: A Grief Story, by Madaleine Sorkin

  • An Ode to Mobility: the Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi, by Lauren Panasewicz

…and there’s so much more, including tear-out-and-send policy postcards by Jill Pelto.

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$10,000 Awarded in Grants to Replace Aging Bolts

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Photo: Craig Hoffman

Photo: Craig Hoffman

The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant award recipients. This grant program addresses the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

  • Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

  • Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

  • Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

  • Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

  • Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

  • New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

  • Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

  • Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

  • Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

  • Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

October 14, 2019, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its fifth year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at crags across the region, including Maple Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, and the Uinta Mountains. Old hardware will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SLCA’s Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative is one of the leading local climbing organization-led fixed anchor replacement programs in the country.

Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2020 and is striving to keep bad bolt reports in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.

Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

Rumney Climbers Association was awarded funding to replace aging expansion bolts at several crags located at the popular Rumney climbing area. RCA’s efforts are widespread and ongoing, but emphasis in the coming year will be placed on updating hardware at Orange Crush, New Wave, and Bonsai with 1/2” stainless steel glue-in bolts. 

Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Cooks Wall in Hanging Mountain State Park and Sauratown Mountain. CCC’s efforts will focus on replacing old 3/8” non-stainless wedge, sleeve, and drop-in anchors with new 1/2” stainless steel hardware.

Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in the next five years. ETCC has replaced 1,000 aging bolts in the past 17 months with new 1/2“ stainless anchors. This grant will help facilitate their ongoing effort to replace 4,000 aging bolts in the region.

New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was awarded funding to rebolt the popular Tattoo and Beer Walls. These areas provide the highest concentration of beginner sport routes in the New River Gorge.

Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to rebolt Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon and the Darkside at Shelf Road. The BCC will purchase 200 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts, 160 Wave Bolts, and 40 lower-off anchor set-ups to address aging hardware at these two popular crags.

Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group (SoCo CRAG) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at crags in the Newlin Creek area of the Wet Mountains in southern Colorado. Efforts will focus on installing new 1/2“ stainless hardware and modern hangers on routes currently equipped with homemade hangers and aging bolts.

Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

Tahoe Climbers Coalition (TCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware around the Tahoe Basin. As a newly formed local climbing organization, TCC’s efforts will bolster ongoing replacement efforts in the region, helping to ensure climbing in the Tahoe Basin remains accessible and bad bolts are replaced in a timely manner.

Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at The Pond in Queen Creek Canyon. CABRP will replace 720 aging, rusty bolts with new stainless steel glue-in bolts. CABRP will also replace top anchor hardware on all routes with new quick links and top anchor hooks, addressing concerns around rusty, loose, and inferior hardware at the crag.

Phil Powers to Step Down from Position as AAC CEO

Powers climbs in Red Rocks. Photo: Irene Yee.

Powers climbs in Red Rocks. Photo: Irene Yee.

A LETTER FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

Dear AAC members, climbers and friends;

This month, I informed our Board of Directors that I will be moving on from my role as the American Alpine Club’s CEO. These years have been some of the most rewarding of my life, and coming to this conclusion was not easy. After fourteen years at the helm of this wonderful organization, this feels like the right time. The Club is in a strong position, ready for a smooth transition, and poised to fuel the next phase of American climbing. My transition will take place over the course of the next year. I have spent a lot of time thinking about the next steps—not only what I’ll do next, but what’s best for the AAC.

Climbing continues to be the driving force in my life. Sharing this lifestyle—the contact with the natural world it provides, the attention to health it demands, and the partnerships it cultivates—with others has been my central effort during my time at the AAC.

Powers at an AAC Climbers' Gathering prior to an Annual Dinner.

Powers at an AAC Climbers' Gathering prior to an Annual Dinner.

Powers advocating for public lands with staff and volunteers at Outdoor Retailer.

Powers advocating for public lands with staff and volunteers at Outdoor Retailer.

The Club has made huge strides in the last decade and a half, and I’m incredibly proud of our accomplishments. Together, we grew our portfolio of lodging facilities from one to five, reached a membership of 25,000, and vastly increased our reach in areas like public policy and education. These milestones were only possible because of thousands of people’s work. I have had the privilege to lead an organization of members, donors, volunteers and staff who share time, resources, goals, and ropes together. Today’s AAC is anchored by a united community of climbers who yearn to offer their knowledge and stand by their values—values like supporting public lands, access to wild and vertical places, and sharing our care for one another through mentorship, education and rescue benefits.

I will leave this role feeling more anticipation than satisfaction. In many respects, we have only begun to see the ways in which climbing benefits individual lives and, more broadly, is a force for good. I think of these years as foundational to an even greater future, and I look forward to watching that unfold—and contributing where I can.

Powers with climber Mason Earle at AAC's Annual Dinner (photo: Jim Aikman).

Powers with climber Mason Earle at AAC's Annual Dinner (photo: Jim Aikman).

Powers on the dance floor at AAC's Excellence in Climbing event (photo: Alton Richardson).

Powers on the dance floor at AAC's Excellence in Climbing event (photo: Alton Richardson).

My experience here has been a special one. I’ve been able to spend time, often at the crag or in the mountains, with some of the early greats in American climbing. I’ve been able to get to know (and even climb with on their “rest days”) contemporary climbers who continue to advance our craft. Many of them have gone on to become extraordinary ambassadors for the landscapes and ecosystems we depend on.

The AAC board has begun its search for my replacement, but this is not my goodbye. I am committed to supporting that effort in every way that makes sense over the coming year. As I move on from the AAC, I look forward to spending more time with my family and with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, which I have owned with my partners for the last twenty years. I will also be spending more time with the wild places we have worked so hard to protect.

And, of course, I’ll still be climbing, so look for me at your crag. There are many I still want to visit.

With gratitude,

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Phil Powers

Powers and the many attendees of the 2019 Climb the Hill event in D.C. (photo: Stephen Gosling).

Powers and the many attendees of the 2019 Climb the Hill event in D.C. (photo: Stephen Gosling).

Powers on the Muldrow Glacier in 1996.

Powers on the Muldrow Glacier in 1996.

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We've Completed Our Most Challenging Ascent Yet: Climb the Hill

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Climbers and Climb the Hill attendees listen during the standing-room-only senate reception we hosted. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

Climbers and Climb the Hill attendees listen during the standing-room-only senate reception we hosted. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

The 4th annual Climb the Hill with Access Fund is all wrapped up, and it was our most impactful effort to date!

Climb the Hill represents the interests of the climbing community among national policy-makers. Professional climbers, outdoor industry representatives, and recreation advocates accompany us on Capitol Hill, where we meet with federal lawmakers to discuss issues affecting the climbing and greater outdoor recreation community.

This year, we:

  • Brought 60+ athletes, outdoor brands, non-profit partners, and community advocates together on Capitol Hill in D.C.,

  • attended a hearing on streamlining permitting for outfitters and guides via the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR) Act and the Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR) Act,

  • and offered a Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) training for team members, crafted by the Climb the Hill JEDI Taskforce.

And:

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We advocated for climate forward solutions.

We spoke up for public lands protections.

We rallied for recreation access and enhancement.

We demanded appropriate funding for land management agencies.

We outlined Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) principles in our lobby efforts with the support of our JEDI Taskforce..

A staffer, Alex Honnold, and Justin Napolitano approach a meeting. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

A staffer, Alex Honnold, and Justin Napolitano approach a meeting. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

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2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Winners Announced

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The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. This year, the committee reviewed a large number of well-qualified applications. They were heartened by the breadth of conservation projects planned across the country, and we continue to encourage local climbers to give back in a meaningful way, on a local level.

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2019 Cornerstone recipients:

Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Rocks, Rumney, New Hampshire

By stepping up to address the environmental stewardship needs identified by the US Forest Service, the Rumney Climbers Association is helping to ensure that the climbing resources at Rumney remain open and accessible to current and future visitors. If conditions were to continue to degrade and the USFS was unable to adequately address these issues, there is a very real possibility that some sites could be closed or access severely restricted to mitigate climber impacts. The proposed work will ensure that the natural environment remains intact, allowing future visitors to experience Rumney as the beautiful outdoor climbing destination that it is renowned for. 

Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)

Upper Methow Valley, Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Washington

Methow Valley Climbers will use the funds to improve the infrastructure at the local, very popular, Fun Rock climbing area. Recreational rock climbing use of the cliffs and trails at Fun Rock began in the 1980's and has increased exponentially over the years. The area sees high use from March through the fall and has seen degradation of the user built platforms and trails, leading to reduced safety and poor flow of traffic. Local climbers have, over the years, built and maintained the landing areas, using whatever material was easily obtained, but have not been able to keep up with the huge numbers the area now sees. The greatest concerns are safety for the users and environmental damage to the fragile, unconsolidated soil and struggling plants.

Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition

Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The RRGCC has new crag development underway at a location five minutes from one of our parking lots. We predict this to be a high traffic area, as it is full of moderates and development continues. We aim to build sustainable staging areas and trails more quickly to prevent unnecessary damage to the ecology of the area. The Cornerstone Grant will greatly help the RRGCC achieve sustainable development and mitigate heavy impact in what is sure to be a popular area.

New River Alliance of Climbers

New River Gorge and Fayette County, West Virginia

The proposed project will remediate the extensive damage at the Bridge Buttress area caused by many years of heavy use by climbers. The plan is to crib staging areas with timber and rock to create a series of connected flats that will slow runoff and put a stop to the continuous erosion and loss of vegetation. Grade improvements will connect the approach staircase to the stone staircase leading to the top of the crag and to the Layback area, climber's right of the main buttress. This project will also create initial recreational infrastructure in the newly purchased and established Needleseye Park, a municipal climbing resource in the City of Oak Hill, WV.

Northwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition

Stone Hill, Kootenai National Forest, Montana

Stone Hill is home to more than 500 climbing routes, many of which were developed without adequate trail establishment. The Stone Hill Trail Network Project will bring together land managers, climbers and volunteers to establish well-built trails and signage, significantly improving access to these beloved routes and making them easier to approach. Trail planning will be directed by the USDA Forest Service, and trail building will be done by groups of volunteers over a series of organized trail days in the next two seasons. Trail days will be an opportunity for the community to network and learn about sustainability and climbing area stewardship. The quality trails the community builds will improve sustainability by mitigating trampling and erosion on the steep slopes around the area, and encourage climbers to spread out and explore the classic, lesser known crags of Stone Hill.

Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

Forbes State Forest, Pennsylvania

Forbes State Forest boasts numerous recreational opportunities for visitors, among these climbing is a popular activity. Both Beam Rocks and Cove Rocks are heavily trafficked areas for climbers, hikers, and other recreational pursuits throughout the state forest. Due to the popularity of these areas, they are an unfortunate target for vandalism, including graffiti. For the past four years, Forbes State Forest has partnered with volunteers (Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition, Pennsylvania Parks and Forests Foundation) to regularly remove graffiti from these locations. The funds from this grant will equip volunteers with the tools and materials to remove graffiti on a bi-yearly basis. 

Carolina Climbers Coalition

Table Rock State Park, Pickens, South Carolina

The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) will use funds to build approximately 1.9 miles of trail leading to a never been open cliff called Pumpkintown. Currently an old logging road exists going up the escarpment for about 1 mile. This logging road does not reach the cliff base, which is the remaining 0.9 miles. The CCC will undergo phase 1 of trail construction, which is clearing the corridor for machine cutting and bench cutting by hand necessary spots. Opening of this new cliff is contingent upon an approach trail being built. 

AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant Selection Committee:

Rob Abramowitz, Audrey Todd Borisov, Elisabeth Bowers, Eddie Espinosa, Emily Hendrick, Matt Hepp, Ryan Kuehn, Jay Parks, Joe Sambataro, Jenna Winkler

Photo courtesy of Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)