New River Gorge craggin' classic
September 22-24, 2017
Rally to the New River Gorge! Join the American Alpine Club and CAMP USA in Fayetteville, West Virginia on September 22th- 24th for the 6th annual Craggin' Classic in the New River Gorge!
This 3-day grassroots climbing festival celebrates the climbers and climbing of the Southeast. The weekend features climbing clinics taught by professional athletes and guides, stewardship and conservation efforts, glow-stick dance parties, gear demos, food, films, music, free beer and whiskey (21+), games, free swag, bonfires, raffles, silent auctions and good times with great people!
We're proud to host live music all weekend long with this years event featuring the Long Point String Band and That High Country Revival. And if that wasn't enough, back by popular demand this year, our annual PIG ROAST! The festivities will take place at the AAC's campground with clinics taught at nearby crags in the Gorge.
World class climbing combined with Southern hospitality, live music, dead pigs, and an after-party that will have you howling at the moon. It's better than good. It's supremely-awesome. See you at the New.
*Online ticket sales for the New River Gorge Craggin' Classic have now closed. Some tickets and clinics may still be available on a walk-in basis, first come first served, however space is not guaranteed.
GENERAL WEEKEND PASS: $45
Includes: Event entrance Friday, Saturday, and Sunday including access to all entertainment; AAC trucker hat and event cup; beer for those 21+; Saturday night PIG ROAST; and Saturday and Sunday local breakfasts and coffee. Event ticket price does not include clinics or camping at the AAC's NRG Campground. See below for more details.
WEEKEND CAMPING PASS: $15
There is a additional pass for camping at the AAC NRG Campground. Space is limited so first come first serve for up to 250 individual spaces. There is additional camping and lodging options at other grounds within the area. See below under "Additional Details" for more information. Best to book early.
CLINIC REGISTRATION: $70
Up your game with an array of climbing clinics taught by professional climbing athletes and local guides. All clinics run Saturday, September 23rd from 9:00am to 4:00pm. See below for clinic descriptions and details.
*Current AAC members will receive a 10% discount upon registration checkout.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 22nd
7:00 AM: Yoga at First Hump in the NRG Campground
9:00 AM: Stewardship Project with the New River Alliance of Climbers and Blue Ridge Outdoors.
Please join the New River Alliance of Climbers and Blue Ridge Outdoors for our local crag stewardship and conservation project. Roll up your sleeves, take ownership of this amazing climbing landscape and help keep it clean and maintained. This project runs from 9:00am to 4:00pm on Friday, September 29th, only. Location TBA.
4:30 PM: Yoga at First Hump in the NRG Campground
5:30 PM - 8:00 PM: Long Point String Band
Get down and dirty with local rockers, the Long Point String Band. They're an Old-Time acoustic outfit from southern West Virginia who blends the authenticity of Old-Time Mountain Music with the flare of bluegrass. The group consists of the virtuosic stylings of Hunter Walker, Brian Bell, Lewis Prichard, Lars Swanson , and on occasion, Barbara Rosner. More information here.
6:30 PM: Just Dessert Potluck at the NRG Campground
Bring, share and get what you deserve with a dessert potluck. Bring a dish with an ingredients card and be entered into Friday night’s raffle! **Dinner is not provided Friday night--please plan on supporting local restaurants or cooking at your site.
6:30 PM - 8:00 PM: Games, Raffles…
8:00 PM: Vertical Aid Q&A
Join author, NRG local, and AAC associate editor, Bryan Simon at this book release event featuring a discussion of the book, Q and A session on climbing injuries followed by a book signing.
Vertical Aid: Essential Wilderness Medicine for Climbers, Trekkers, and Mountaineers! Vertical Aid was written by the climber-medical professional team of Seth Collings Hawkins, R. Bryan Simon, J Pearce Beissinger, and Deb Simon, and was published April 2017. It is "the most complete guide available for managing both emergencies and chronic injuries sustained during climbs." Climbing mag says it is a, "thorough, must-have" for climbers. More information on Vertical Aid is available here.
8:30 PM: Pat Goodman New River Gorge Reel
Local badass shows local badass film. Not to be missed!
9:30 PM - 10:00 PM: Games, Raffles…
Our kick-off night continues! Grab a beer and take the party into the night sky!
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23rd
7:00 AM: Yoga at First Hump in the NRG Campground
8:00 AM: Climber Coffee + Breakfast at the NRG Campground
Locally roasted Stone Tower Joe Coffee and a TBA breakfast. This meal (and all meals provided) are part of a no-waste initiative so please bring a plate, fork, etc.
9:00 AM: Climbing Clinics in the New River Gorge
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Sign up for a climbing clinic taught by the professional climbing athletes and local climbing guides and up your game. Everyone has something to learn. Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.
Please show up 15-20 minutes early, ready to go. You will need to sign a clinic-specific waiver beforehand. See below for clinic descriptions and details.
9:00 AM - 4:00 PM: Bouldering Comp at the NRG Campground
Sign up at check-in for $20. Boulder hard, win prizes. Simple as that. Prizes will be awesome but are currently TBA.
4:00 PM: NRG Climber Celebration Party and Hoedown-Throw-Down
Beers? Check. Southern hospitality? Check. Attitude of reckless abandon? Check. Join the tribe in the NRG Campground for the biggest and baddest climber hoedown-throw-down in all of the Southeast! The evening will feature free swag and gear handouts; silent auctions and raffles featuring amazing deals on top end gear, free local beer (21+); live music; a vendor village, games; and more!
5:00 PM - 6:00 PM: Games, Raffles…
Let the games begin..
5:30 PM - 6:30 PM: CAMP Poster Signing with athlete Ben Rueck
5:30 PM - 8:30 PM: That High Country Revival
That High Country Revival plays everything from old-time string band and jug band music, to country blues, and rock n' roll. The band's sound features authentic old-timey vocals & guitar from Chris Lovejoy, rollicking mando and fiddle playing by Matt Spade and Stan Bumgardner, and driving rhythms from R. D. Dean on the stand-up bass. They are often joined by good friends John Nelson on everything from the banjo to harmonica and Goose Sizemore, who loves percussion so much he invented his own instruments. More information here.
6:30 PM: Annual Pig Roast Dinner!
Back by popular demand, the world-famous NRG Craggin' Classic Pig Roast! This meal (and all meals provided) are part of a no-waste initiative please bring a plate, fork, etc. lest you eat with your hands like a savage.
8:30 PM: Dyno Competition
Jumping is hard. Doing it under the bright lights under the gaze of drunken strangers? Maybe harder? We don't really know. Show us how good you are and win some cool stuff.
10:00 PM: Games, Raffles..
And the games continue.
10:00 PM: Tuggin' Shack Dance Party
Dance till the stars come down from the rafters. BYO-Glowsticks! An annual favorite.
SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 24th
8:00 AM: Yoga at First Hump in the NRG Campground
8:30 AM: Climber Coffee + Breakfast at the NRG Campground
Feeling rough from a night of gettin' after it? Start your day right with locally roasted Stone Tower Joe Coffee and a TBA breakfast. This meal (and all meals provided) are part of a no-waste initiative please bring a plate, fork, etc.
10:00 AM: Campground Clean Up
Please join the New River Alliance of Climbers for a quick clean up of the campground so we can all get out and climb! If you had fun this weekend, then help us out so we can climb, too (or lounge around at the crag nursing hangovers).
Learning from those that are masters at their craft can seriously benefit your climbing. Take your climbing to a new level by signing up for a climbing clinic taught by professional climbers and local guides! Climbers of all abilities are welcome, though basic climbing knowledge and proficiency is expected.
Clinics for the New River Gorge Craggin’ Classic will be held on Saturday, September 23rd from 9:00am to 4:00pm, weather permitting. Clinics will begin promptly at 9:00am. Please arrive 15 minutes early, prepared to learn from the best.
General Personal Equipment Needed: Personal climbing equipment including shoes, harness, chalk, helmet, personal anchor and belay/rappel equipment, hiking shoes, lunch/calories, hydration, and appropriate clothing for climbing.
- HUGE DAYS WITH A LIGHT RACK with Scott Bennett, presented by CAMP USA
There are few things more fascinating or fulfilling than proficiently negotiating technical terrain on huge rock routes. Here, proficiency is the key … when everything we know and all the training we do comes together to create a very particular kind of accomplishment. This clinic is designed to explore the strategies and tactics involved in trying to improve our efficiency on big multi-pitch rock routes so we can ultimately move faster and climb higher. We will be studying the skills, the gear, and our objectives in order to distill this vast subject matter down to a digestible set of strategies and tactics that we can exercise in our regular climbing and training routines. The CAMP athletes teaching these clinics are absolute experts on the subject with bold first ascents around the world and numerous speed records across the United States from the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon to the Nose on El Capitan. See the clinic curriculum for more details.
- THE ART OF THE PROJECT with Ben Rueck, presented by CAMP USA
The Art of the Project is an intensive clinic designed to help climbers break into new levels of difficulty within a single pitch environment. To develop the curriculum, we worked with CAMP athlete Ben Rueck who credits his growth as a climber to learning and understanding the art of project. The curriculum is designed to put a structure behind projecting that can be used to dissect and accomplish our objectives. The clinic covers the emotional, mental, and physical parts of the process from the perspective of athletes who have had to use these very tools to push their climbing to new levels.
Here is a short introduction from the author and instructor:
"Two years and over 50 falls had gone into trying to send Gutless Wonder (5.14b), my first climb at that grade. I can only estimate the falls because after thirty of them, I’d just quit counting. I wanted to walk away from the 50 degree lime stone wall and sweep the idea of red-pointing this Colorado test piece under the rug. But I couldn’t and I wouldn’t. There was an indescribable pull that forced me to grow as a climber and as a person –– as well as plant the seed for this clinic. It all started with a simple shift in my mental framework, ‘It is not so much the Why, but the How that matters.’
Easy phrase to speak aloud, but it took ten years for me to grasp and understand …
I needed to stop asking why I could not climb the sequence and I needed to start asking how I could climb the sequence. Suddenly a map opened before me and I could understand the things that needed to happen if I was going to succeed. That map is what I have tried to put structure behind for clinic attendees."
ADVANCED TRAD CLIMBING with Jesse Huey, presented by Arc'Teryx
Join Arc'Teryx athlete and accomplished climbing connoisseur, Jesse Huey, to redevelop your approach to your trad climbing and seriously up your game. This guy is a literal wizard on the stone and you are guaranteed to improve your skills. This clinic is suited for the climber who already is leading comfortably on bolts and has some experience leading on their own trad gear as well. You will learn skills to improve your ability to place gear on more difficult climbs and in more complex situations. Scenarios involving traverses, mid-pitch descents, protecting overhangs, minimizing rope drag, and other situations that require increased problem solving skills in order to protect safely are all covered in this clinic. Climbers on this course should be comfortable leading at a 5.8 level already. This clinic is a part of the Arc'Teryx Climbing Academy.
PREREQUISITES: Comfortably leading 5.8 or harder trad climbs.
About Jesse: Jesse grew up in the shadow of the Cascade Mountains where adventure and athletics were always at the foreground of his life. While attending the University of Washington, he was introduced to climbing amidst a difficult pursuit of school and the demanding practice schedule of the university's varsity rowing program. Twelve years later he is training for the most beautiful, difficult, remote, technical faces in the world. Be it rock, ice, or mixed he loves them all. In the last several years he has free climbed El Capitan in a single day, mixed climbed M10, put up first ascents in Asia and Patagonia, repeated one of Alaska's most difficult grade 6 routes, and also have been incredibly injured in the process. Going climbing is always easy, the biggest challenge to him is maintaining the balance of his profession, passion to climb, and his relationships.
CRACK CLIMBING TECHNIQUE with Pat Goodman
Learn to crack climb! Crack climbing can be incredibly daunting, particularly without proper technique. Take your crack climbing to the next level by learning effective jam skills, crack techniques/strategies, and hard-won tips from a crack wizard.
PREREQUISITES: Endless psyche and some previous climbing experience outside.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Climbing tape, trad gear, draws, and rope (if you own them).
About Pat: Pat Goodman developed his obsessive appetite for vertical adventure at age 12 while growing up in Farmington, New Mexico. Since then he has sampled the vertical wilds of China, India, Pakistan, Venezuela, Canada, Mexico and Europe. He currently resides in the New River Gorge in Fayetteville, WV.
TRAD CLIMBING BASICS
Sport climbing is great and all, but the greatest climbs in the world—the most classic, historical lines—follow that single line of weakness called a crack. Transitioning into trad climbing can be a slow affair. There is a lot more to know about technique, gear placements, anchors, etc. If you are hungry to expand your skills beyond the bolts and to progress into a world of jams and cams, this clinic is for you. This trad climbing clinic will prepare you to place solid protection and build bombproof anchors to keep you feeling confident about climbing on your gear.
PREREQUISITES: You should be a confident belayer and be able to lead sport climbs.
ROCK YOUR RACK: WOMEN'S TRAD with Jessa Goeble, presented by Outdoor Research
Rally the ladies and climb some cracks! This Women's crack climbing clinic will go over basic crack climbing skills and technique, everything from thin to wide cracks. Also, learning to place gear efficiently and gear tricks.
PREREQUISITES: Must be able to climb 5.9 and be proficient with belaying.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Climbing tape, trad gear, draws, and rope (if you own them).
About Jessa: Raised in North Carolina, Jessa started climbing in the gym at the age of 9. Soon after, she was competing on a national and international level, and spent all other free time climbing outside. As time went on, Jessa spent more of here time outside climbing southeast boulders and Red pointing intimidating line in the New River Gorge. With 20+ years of skill and experience Jessa has become a well rounded climber, knowledgeable in a all disciplines. At the moment she resides in Fayetteville, West Virginia, within walking distance of the New River Gorge.
LETS CLIMB! A INTRODUCTION TO CLIMBING
Sign-up for this clinic if you are new to climbing and are looking to have fun! The skills covered in this clinic will be the fundamental skills every climber should understand to be a safe and confident rock climber. The list of skills being covered include and not limited to: Proper top rope belay, tying in, universal commands, and climbing technique.
PREREQUISITES: A great personality and a thirst for adventure.
CLIMBER FIRST AID AND LITE SELF RESCUE with Vertical Medicine Resources
This clinic is taught by the authors of Vertical Aid, the recently released book on climbing accidents and injuries that Climbing mag described as a 'thorough, must-have' for climbers. Get introduced to the acute and chronic medical issues that affect climbers, from traumatic fractures to common overuse injuries such a pulley tears and other upper body injuries. Participants will also learn some basic self-rescue techniques and how to use common climbing gear to care for and evacuate injured climbers. This clinic is a great first step of training for all climbers interested in being better prepared to care for themselves and their partners in a vertical environment.
CLIMBING FOR THE SMALL AND VERTICALLY CHALLENGED
An amazing clinic covering various topics, including but not limited to: How to climb tall when you're short; How to belay tiny climbers and how to be belayed by them; Techniques to use your small size to your advantage; Identifying alternative beta; and Finding the dyno within. Lynn Hill, Daniel Woods, and Ashima Shiraishi (to name a few) are “vertically challenged” climbers who have redefined the sport in terms of achievement and difficulty. Learn the skills and tricks that propelled them to greatness.
PREREQUISITES: must be shorter than 5'5" or climb with someone who is.
MULTI-PITCH EFFICIENCIES AND TECHNIQUES
Moving quickly on multi-pitch routes can mean the difference between beers back at the truck after a fun day and being benighted on the wall. Wall management technique and systems, rope management, rappel transitions, and gear transfers are central to this clinic. You will become efficient at moving quickly up multi-pitch routes so that more time is spent climbing, and less time in keeping the logistics organized (and reorganized).
PREREQUISITES: Participants should already have been climbing multi-pitch for at least one season. This clinic should be helpful to seconds but leaders will get the most out of it.
ADVANCED SPORTS CLIMBING SKILLS
Do you lead climb sport routes? Awesome! Join this clinic to refine your current skills and learn a few new techniques to apply to your red points. Some topics that may be covered include: efficient stick clipping, "doggin" a route, better boinking, red point strategies, etc. You will learn how to set and achieve your climbing goals and push you abilities to their maximum potential.
PREREQUISITES: Previous experience lead climbing outside
LADIES INTRO TO BOULDERING
Learn bouldering In this clinic you’ll learn proper spotting technique, pad placement and other bouldering skills.
PREREQUISITES: Previous climbing experience indoor or outdoor.
ADDITIONAL EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Bouldering pad, chalk and other personal items.
CLASSIC 5.11+ NRG SPORTS CLIMBS
Want a tour of the best 5.11+ climbing in the New River Gorge? Get out and experience some classic sport routes with a local guide who has the area, and the routes, dialed. This is a great clinic for those climbing confidently at the grade, but looking for a tour of the area, as well as 5.10 climbers looking to push their limits on harder routes, but having the beta (and top rope) if needed.
PREREQUISITES: Previous climbing experience in the NRG, can climb 5.11 to 5.12
CLASSIC 5.10++ NRG TRADITIONAL CLIMBS with Jenn Flemming
Want a tour of the best 5.10 traditional climbing in the New River Gorge? Get out and experience some classic trad routes with a local guide who has the area, and the routes, dialed. This is a great clinic for those climbing confidently at the grade, but looking for a tour of the area, as well as less experienced climbers looking to push their limits on harder routes, gain experience above their grade, and having the beta (and top rope) if needed.
PREREQUISITES: Previous climbing experience in the NRG, can climb 5.10 to 5.11
About Jenn: Jenn Flemming started climbing in the gym in Boston in 2005. Within months she had abandoned plans to attend medical school and moved west to rock climb. Since that time she has climbed all over the world including China, Bolivia, South Africa, Iran and Tajikistan. Her favorite climbing destination, however, is in her backyard of Eldorado Canyon, Colorado. Jenn is most passionately a traditional climber, inspired by aesthetic, hard, single pitch routes.
KNOWING THE ROPES, presented by the American Alpine Club
AAC Education has been taking controversial climbing topics head on for the last 6 years. The most controversial topics in climbing tend to generate fervor because misinformation, dogma, and rigid problem-solving often characterize what we think we know about some of the most foundational skills in American climbing. These knowledge gaps often lead to accidents, but it’s not always the novice climber that gets hurt. Intermediate and advanced climbers also fall victim to knowledge gaps.
The Know the Ropes sampler is a clinic for any climber that wants to get off the Mountain Project forum and have a real hands-on myth-busting, set-the-record-straight, interactive educational session on the following topics: Belaying in single pitch and multipitch; Rappelling; Cleaning an anchor in a single pitch setting; Anchor building.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic is appropriate for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants have prior experience with the clinic topics, the clinic can be more hands-on. If not, the clinic still has informational value for those that might not yet be ready to practice in 5th class terrain.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, any anchor building equipment). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
IMPROVISED SELF-RESCUE, presented by the American Alpine Club
Self-Rescue curricula rarely focus on the scenarios that actually routinely happen. Our clinic will spend less time focusing on unlikely scenarios like incapacitated climbers or leader-rescue and more time focusing on the awkward scenarios that every climber eventually experiences: Rope gets stuck when you try to pull it; Rope Drag is so severe the leader can’t move; I dropped my belay device; My rope doesn’t make it to the next rap station.
PREREQUISITES: This clinic has value for any climber at any phase in their climbing. If participants to do not have traditional lead climbing experience or multi pitch climbing experience, the hands-on portions of the clinics will likely be limited to ground school.
EQUIPMENT NEEDED: Specific rescue tools (2 5mm nylon prussic loops or Sterling Hollowblocks, 2 48" slings, 2 7mm nylon cordellette, a mechanical assisted braking device, a tube style belay device with plaquette function like an ATC Guide or Reverso, 4 extra HMS style locking carabiners). Personal climbing equipment (helmet, harness, climbing shoes, belay hardware, lead climbing and anchor building tools). Personal Items such as food, water, sunscreen, bugspray, camera, note taking tools, etc. Appropriate apparel and footwear (clinics may require a short hike and will be conducted outdoors).
EVENT HEADQUARTERS & AAC NRG CAMPGROUND:
97 Pudds Rd.
Lansing, WV 25862
Pies and Pints, Secret Sandwich Society, Burrito Bar, The Station, Gumbos, Vandals, Cathedral Cafe
ADDITIONAL LODGING OPTIONS:
286 Rifrafters Campground Dr
This is a great little campground located 5 minutes from downtown Fayetteville on Laurel Creek Rd. They have recently remodeled their bathhouse facilities and do a great job at keeping the place clean. They have tent camping and RV campsites available, as well as a covered pavilion area with a refrigerator for your use. Last we checked it was $12/night/adult.
- CHESTNUT CREEK CAMPROUND
Minutes from Fayetteville and the Gorge, nice secluded sites, modern bathroom facilities, campstore. The quirky owner will be on you like white on rice to make sure you abide to all the rules. This tight run ship means you'll get a good nights sleep.Rate: $8-10/night.
- SUMMERSVILLE LAKE RETREAT
Mount Nebo/Summersville, WV
They've got a nice set-up complete with campsites, RV-Hook-ups, A-Frame Chalets, AND new in 2011 they've built some really nice big cabins if you're not into roughing it. They also do Boat Rentals (Pontoon, Paddle, and Fishing Boats). Owner's Steve and Donna are more than happy to point out the hot deep water soloing spots around Summersville Lake.
- OPOSSUM CREEK RETREAT Lansing, WV
These guys are no strangers to rock climbers and they know how to pamper you. If you're not into roughing it and want to live like a king this is a killer spot with friendly folks to take care of you. Minutes from Fayetteville and the Gorge, cabins of all sizes, fully furnished, hot tubs, fully equipped kitchens, air conditioning, nestled in the woods, nature trails, a great escape from the ordinary.
- NEW RIVER CABINS
Don't want to sleep in the dirt but you're on a budget? This is one of the best deals around. Located just 4 miles from the Gorge, these guys have 8 cabins that are price competitive with the hotels listed below. Each cabin sleeps 8 and is fully furnished with kitchenettes and bathrooms, satellite TV, air conditioning and heat, and they are pet friendly. Newly built in 2009 it's a great bargain at $120/night for 4 people. Check them out and tell them we sent you.
- NEW RIVER INN
Oak Hill, WV
Built in 2006, very similar to your Super 8 type hotel with free high-speed internet, complimentary breakfast, cable TV, heated outdoor pool, hair dryer, microwave & fridge in every room, located a short 5 minute drive from the New River Gorge. Clean and comfortable rooms with grocery store and restaurants within walking distance. Summer In-Season Rate approx: $89.00/night
- HOLIDAY LODGE
Oak Hill, WV
Formerly a Holiday Inn this place is located right on Route 19 and is loaded with amenities. Wireless internet, bar in the lobby featuring live music in season, and an indoor swimming pool.
- HISTORIC MORRIS HARVEY HOUSE 201 W Maple Ave
Fayetteville, WV 25840
Circa 1902 this Victorian style home will take you back to last century. Located in downtown Fayetteville walking distance to our headquarters in Water Stone Outdoors, the Cathedral Cafe and other local shops. Rates run $89.00-$100.00/night. Tell Bernie we sent you.
- COUNTRY RIVER INN Gatewood Rd.
Fayetteville, WV 25840
Country River Inn is located in a building previously occupied by the Fayetteville Consolidated School. Completing a four year renovation in 2005, the schoolhouse built in 1929, is the new home to our B&B. Each of our six non smoking guest rooms include a private bath, two queen size beds, air conditioning, microwave, refrigerator, and color TV.
- LAFAYETTE FLATS
171 North Court Street
Fayetteville, WV 25840
Located just across the street from the NRMG office and on the upper floors of a beautiful historic main street building. Originally built to house a bank, these four units will be home away from home for people seeking a modern and hip alternative to the motels, cabins or large vacation homes that are currently the only available lodgings in the area.
If you have any questions regarding the New River Gorge Craggin' Classic, please contact Event Coordinator Kate Tierney at [email protected]
2017 New River Gorge Craggin' Classic is presented by: