Originally Published in Guidebook XVII
As we step into 2026, I want to begin with gratitude. The support you provide the American Alpine Club through your membership and donations enables us to deliver meaningful work to climbers across the country. Your commitment strengthens the AAC and ensures that we can continue to serve our members.
Climbing is built on connection: the bond between partners, the shared experience at the crag or on an expedition, and the knowledge passed from one generation to the next. This year, we are deepening our focus on uniting climbers and celebrating the culture that gives meaning to our time on rock, ice, and alpine terrain. We are building programming that strengthens members’ connections and creates more opportunities to gather, learn, and celebrate climbing. We look forward to sharing more in the coming months as we build toward 2027 and our 125th anniversary.
Across the country, our lodging facilities remain places where friendships are formed, knowledge is shared, and adventures begin. We continue to deliver critical publications and media, including The American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Climbing, monthly Prescription videos, the American Alpine Club Podcast and The Cutting Edge. Our core member benefits, including rescue and medical benefits, discounts, and access to our world-class library, reflect our commitment to supporting climbers wherever their journeys take them.
The AAC plays a unique role in sustaining and strengthening climbing. We maintain the record of climbing so it continues to inform and inspire climbers today. We create moments of connection where people see themselves reflected. And we remain committed to being a sustainable and adaptable organization prepared to meet the evolving needs of our members.
Inside these pages, you will see the AAC’s charge reflected: a commitment to learning, the power of member contributions, and the meaningful journeys climbers undertake around the world. In this edition of The Guidebook, you will find:
“Safer Than Socks in Your Hat: A History of Climbing Helmets and an Updated UIAA Standard”—a practical look at how helmet design and standards have developed, and what climbers should understand about today’s protection.
“The Huayhuash Is Still Open: A Rare Ascent of Jirishanca Chico”—reflections from a challenging expedition funded by the AAC’s Mountaineering Fellowship Fund Grant, offering lessons in risk, humility, and renewed inspiration.
“Elsewhere: The Problem of Human Waste Management in the Wilderness”—a celebration of the work of one AAC member in advancing human waste management systems in alpine environments and what it means for sustainable access.
“An Interview with ANAC Editor Pete Takeda”—sharing key insights from the incidents featured in this year’s Accidents in North American Climbing, to help climbers make better decisions in complex terrain.
“Rewind the Climb: The Steck-Salathé on Yosemite’s Sentinel Rock”—a return to an era-defining ascent in Yosemite and the unique vision of John Salathé.
Each of these contributions reflects a core part of our mission: supporting climbers, learning from experience, honoring our history, and strengthening the connections that define this community.
Thank you for being part of this effort. I am grateful for your continued support and look forward to the work ahead.
Ben Gabriel
AAC Executive Director
AAC Updates
Operations and Governance
The Board, with continued leadership from our President, Nina Williams, welcomed new directors Maryanna Saenko and Sean Chiasson. In addition, the Board elected a new Executive Committee:
Vice President: Keith Thomajan
Secretary: Mo Beck
Treasurer: Howard Lukens
We want to extend our sincere appreciation to outgoing board members Rob DeConto and Pavan Surapaneni for their years of dedication, guidance, and support.
At the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival, we were honored to be a part of the Best Film: Climbing award, which was given to Old Man Lightning, a film sponsored by the AAC.
We are pleased to welcome new staff to the American Alpine Club, including VP of Philanthropy Melanie Hood and Administrative Assistant Alyssa Grizenk
Member Services
Congratulations to the following climbing teams for receiving Piolets d’Or in 2025. We are honored to have been a small part of these ascents, through conferring the Cutting Edge Grant to the first team listed below, and reporting each of these ascents in the AAJ.
August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler, for the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar.
Aleš Česen and Tom Livingstone, for the first ascent of the west ridge of Gasherbrum III.
Spencer Gray, Ryan Griffiths, and Matt Zia, for the first ascent of the southwest arête of Kaqur Kangri.
The AAC 2026 Spring Grants Cycle will be increasing funding for the Research Grant to $9,000.
Programs
The AAC met with other national federation members in Kosovo for the UIAA’s annual General Assembly (GA). At the GA, AAC representative Ron Funderburke was named President of the Training Commission.
Due to a lapse in appropriations, the federal government shut down and halted nonessential operations. The shutdown abated efforts to engage government agencies on implementation issues associated with the EXPLORE Act, and it also impacted federal agencies, such as the National Park Service, in the execution of their duties.
The Climbing Grief Fund received expanded funding and will be able to fund additional awards this year.
