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Honest Thoughts About Therapy as a Climber

What is therapy? What is a therapist supposed to do? How do you find one? How do you know if you need one? How do you know if yours is any good? Societal stigma around mental health makes the answers to these questions difficult to find.

And yet, mental health is slowly making its way into the mainstream conversation in climbing communities. It’s coming up around death, loss, trauma, risk—all in some ways inherently tied to the particular experience of climbing. It’s also coming up around more insidious, silent struggles like body image, performance, depression, and anxiety. What’s not yet mainstream is how or when to engage in therapy, or conversations about what exactly therapy is.

I often talk with people about how to find a therapist, choose a therapist, or where to start with therapy. This list of thoughts is a summary of those conversations, with special thought given to climbers and the climbing community. I think the climbing community has an inherent advantage in addressing mental health, in that it is such a community.

I have, in no other domain of my life, walked up to a stranger and so easily become their friend. The stoke, the excitement, the welcoming energy is overwhelming. And yet, we still suffer. We suffer the same as anyone else, and in some ways, uniquely, as a result of risks we’re willing to take to experience the wild, boundless joy of climbing.

I know about the wild, boundless joy. And, as a therapist, I know about the darker, shadow-side of things. Climbers, in my experience, also have access to an extraordinary range of emotional experience—from the darkest shadows and doubts to the most profound delight. Therapy can expand and restore access to this range. It can alleviate suffering and open new mental space for connection and relationships. It can help you be more present and authentic in your life.

What is Therapy?

At its core, therapy is a relationship. The relationship can be between a therapist and a client, or a therapist and several clients in a group. It can look really different, depending on the setting and the people involved. What happens in therapy, too, can look really different. But the main idea is that through this relationship, you develop a space where you can explore yourself—your identities, experiences, and relationships—and through this exploration, grow and change. Sometimes this change is necessary because of pain or suffering, and sometimes it’s voluntary. Sometimes therapy is incited by a traumatic event or loss. Sometimes someone wants a change, or feels something is off in their relationships. Sometimes people struggle making decisions or don’t feel that they don’t know themselves. There are infinite reasons to seek therapy, and none is inappropriate or wrong.

What is a Therapist?

Think of your therapist as your mental belayer. A therapist is your partner, your supporter. Their job is to help you, and even though they’re a person in their own right, during the process of therapy, you are their focus. They can’t climb for you, or even really with you, but they can make sure you don’t fall too far. A key part of therapy is trusting your therapist, which is why choosing one matters. This doesn’t mean you’ll like them all the time, or that they’ll never disappoint you, but the strength of the therapeutic relationship is one of the strongest predictors of good outcomes. So find someone with whom you feel a genuine connection, for whatever reason that might be.

You Get to Choose Your Therapist

This may seem obvious, but it’s incredibly important, and in times of stress or pain, it’s easily overshadowed by other things. You always have agency in your own mental health. This agency begins with choosing a therapist, and continues in every session. Don’t like the way things are going? Say something. Feel uncomfortable? Mention it. This is often easier said than done because of the power dynamics in therapist/client relationships, but that’s why it’s worth reiterating. Hopefully, in an effort to address this dynamic, your therapist will ask you if it’s going okay and provide opportunities for you to give feedback. If you still feel like it’s not a good fit, find another therapist. That’s totally okay.

Read Beneath Their Profile

Therapists write blurblettes about themselves for potential clients to find, and many of them are similar. We’re all required to meet more or less the same training standards, etc., so if someone is a therapist, chances are they’re going to have a lot in common with other therapists. Except we’re all individuals, too. Search for that individuality. In what field was their undergraduate degree? Do they say anything else about themselves? Would it change something if you knew they shared some axis of your identity? Finding a provider through the Climbing Grief Fund is a great example. At baseline, you know they know something about climbing. Things like that can be important points of connection, and can help you feel safe and understood.

Ask for a Consultation

Since fit matters so much, ask to talk to several therapists in a more casual way before starting work together. It’s very often a free service and can give you a lot of information. Talking to more than one can help you start to suss out the differences if you’ve got no idea what you want in a therapist.

Think About What You Want Therapy to Be

Therapy is very rarely a back and forth exchange of sequential childhood traumas and silent, thoughtful Mhms. Sometimes it is, but often not. Therapy is collaborative and generative and exploratory. It’s about curiosity and fantasy and possibility. Thinking ahead of time about what it is you’d like to get out of therapy, even if it’s a simple or vague idea, can be useful in directing the work. Maybe you don’t want to think about ____ anymore, or you feel lonely. The answer to this question might be obvious, or it might not. Either way, it can help you in your search for a therapist, especially if you’re looking for something in particular, like someone who specializes in grief or anxiety or postpartum issues.

Be Prepared—Therapy Will be Work

Therapy, healing, progress, change, growth. However you want to think of what it is you’re working toward in therapy, it’s probably going to be hard. You may feel worse before you feel better. The most rewarding projects often progress this way, too. This is why you need your therapist to be the most psyched and supportive mental-belayer ever. In the rough moments, they’ll make sure you don’t quit.

What If I Can’t Afford It

This is a real question. Insurance and media portrayals often make access to therapy seem like a luxury, but caring for your mental health is just as important as taking care of your physical health, and there are affordable options.

If you have insurance, call and talk to someone about how your benefits apply to therapy (they often call it mental health or behavioral health). There may even be some reimbursement if your therapist is out of network.

If you don’t have insurance, many out-of-pocket providers offer sliding scale fees based on income, and some community mental health centers offer even more affordable sliding scale options. Group therapy can also be a cheaper option—it’s is a super cool, lesser-known modality of treatment where you get to do your own work supported by a group, and witness and support the work of others. Finding these resources may take some research, but they are out there.

And if it’s just financially impossible to spend any money on therapy right now, that’s okay too. Many communities offer 12 step programs. These meetings are always free and often frequent, and though the model is based on recovery from substance use, the recovery-oriented principals have been applied to lots of different mental health challenges like depression and anxiety.

I’d also still recommend thinking about what it is you want to work on, and searching for books or other free resources. The CGF has some psychoeducation here and resources here, and there are others, gathered by the practice where I work, here.

Outside of any treatment, you can take care of yourself in small, everyday ways that impact your emotional wellbeing. You can climb, eat well, and sleep. You can make small changes. You can sit in the sun, have a dance party, forgive yourself. You can do whatever moves you. You can seek out human connection that feels authentic, and ask others for help when you need it.

There is Nothing Wrong With You

For anyone seeking therapy: there is nothing wrong with you. Humans struggle. Being alive is complicated, unexpected, and sometimes painful. We are all impacted by our environment and our relationships. Feeling as though one needs help is not a sign of weakness. Vulnerability is not a sign of weakness. Thinking you might need therapy is not evidence of impairment. We all need support sometimes.

Climb Hard and Feel As Much As You Can

I sincerely believe it’s possible to do both.


Anna Kim has a Masters in Social Work from Smith College and is currently an Associate Psychotherapist at Kindman & Co. in Los Angeles, CA where she is supervised by Paul Kindman, LMFT. She’s also a climber, thru-hiker, and general adventurer—with a particular love of slab. Send her an email at [email protected]

Give a Belay, Get a Belay

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What can 25,000 members do to support each other? How many many fellow members can we support in this time of crisis?

We’ve created a network for AAC members who are part of the at-risk population, or are currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, to get a belay (a grocery run, a pharmacy stop, etc.) from fellow members in the area with the capacity to help.

GIVE A BELAY

If you’re an AAC member who has the capacity to help, fill out this form. Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

GET A BELAY

Are you an AAC member who is currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, or part of the at-risk population? Do you need help with a grocery or pharmacy run? Fill out this form, email us at [email protected], or call us at 303-384-0110 to get a belay from a fellow member.

Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

NEW! Clubhouse Live, a virtual events series

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Introducing the dynamic new events series from our couch to yours!

While we all adjust to new normals, the AAC is creating a new way to connect: Clubhouse Live, a virtual weekly gathering hosted by members of our community. It’s a chance for us to come together from our homes, to learn something new, and to meet our fellow climbers. We don’t have to share a rope to share the stoke—climb on into the Clubhouse!

Coming Up:

  • Chelsea Rude, Tuesday, March 31 at 6pm MST

  • Brette Harrington with Madaleine Sorkin + the Climbing Grief Fund, Thursday, April 9 at 6pm MST

United We Climb, Virtually

CLIMBERS: TAKE ACTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUS

Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer a set of guiding principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.


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Dear Friends, 

The COVID-19 pandemic is unprecedented and impacts us all. Our community must act thoughtfully to “flatten the curve” to reduce transmissions of the virus over time.

We are concerned about transmission of COVID-19 to rural or gateway communities. These remote towns often have limited access to medical facilities and their closely-knit, interconnected social structures are more prone to the spread of infection. 

Please keep places like Bishop, Fayetteville, Moab, Springdale, and Slade as safe as possible by limiting recreation-based travel at this time. If you have a trip planned, please reschedule until we are through this health emergency. This is not the time to head to the desert or rally to your favorite national park for “social distancing.” While outdoor time is necessary for each of us during this turbulent period, we need to stay local and limit our interaction with vulnerable communities.

 Consider also keeping outdoor objectives conservative to reduce the load on the medical system. Backcountry emergencies contribute to overloading hospitals and potential shortages of ventilators in intensive care units. As always, be safe out there and mindful of unnecessary risks.

Finally, we all should follow the directions outlined in the CDC’s guide on how to keep yourself and others safe from the virus. It’s necessary that we as a climbing community make decisions from the perspective of the most vulnerable people in our community.

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The AAC is certain that the climbing community can be a part of the solution to COVID-19 by taking collective action now.

Respectfully, 

Your Club

PS—Learn about updates to our lodging facilities in light of COVID-19.


The Greatest Benefit to Membership

During this unprecedented time of self-quarantines and social distancing many of us have found that we have some extra free time. Time to read. Time to watch movies. Time to plan for the next big trip when things return to normal. The American Alpine Club Library is currently closed to the public indefinitely to limit person to person contact but we will still be doing our best to keep book mail going. If you don’t know about the book mail membership benefit now is the time to become acquainted.

As AAC members you have access to the Henry S. Hall American Alpine Club Library!

This benefit allows you to checkout up to 10 items at a time. We’ll ship the items to you for free! Your only cost is the return shipping. Checkout periods are 35 days and you just have to get the book in the mail heading back to us by the due date.

To checkout books log into your Library profile at: booksearch.americanalpineclub.org First time users will have to notify us to set up their Library account; the best way to do that is for you to send an email to [email protected] and we’ll be able to create your account with the information from the main AAC member database.

We will carry on with book mail as long as there is no link to transferring the virus through the mail and as long as we are able to make it into the Library to ship the materials. If the Denver metro area goes into a shelter in place protocol or another similar quarantine then we will not be able to continue shipping books.

For some ideas on what to read two of our librarians put a list together of some of their favorite books last year for the REI climbing blog which can be seen at https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/aac-librarians-top-favorite-climbing-books Be sure to look at the comments of the post for other great recommendations as well!

A few of our Utah guidebooks

To prepare for your next trip we have both the hiking and climbing guides you need for planning the trip, and we have the how-to-guides that can teach you the techniques you need to know.

Need to learn how to climb?

Not sure what to read or want to recommend a book? Leave a comment below.

LODGING CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

We understand that our shared outdoor places are more important than ever. In an effort to protect local communities and follow state and national recommendations, as of March 17, all AAC facilities will remain closed to the public and to members. Additionally, we will be closing primitive camping at all facilities. Reservations are open for dates after May 8 (June 6 for GTCR). Refunds and modifications will be made without penalty for dates prior to April 30. As the situation relaxes or progresses, dates are subject to change. We appreciate your support, adaptability, and understanding during this time.

We encourage you to find local trails, hikes, and rides, or whatever you may have access to—a walk in the park, a run with your dog. Maintain appropriate distances from others you may encounter (at least six feet), wash your hands frequently, continue to leave no trace, breathe fresh air, and be grateful for the wild places we have.  

During this pandemic we encourage folks to stay local. Traveling puts everyone around us at risk. Many of the communities we travel to for our outdoor pursuits are small, isolated, and unexposed. Many of them may not have the medical or financial resources to mitigate COVID-19. So, please stay home. Play in the yard. Find ways to be a good steward to your local community, not just your climbing community. If you’re able, purchase gift cards online from local businesses and donate to mutual aid programs to help those out of work. If you’re extra able, please donate to us! We are keeping up the good fight—educating climbers and focusing on policy to keep our wild places wild. 

Soon, we will all be outside together again!



ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

We will host the upcoming Annual Benefit Dinner virtually on Saturday, March 14 at 5 p.m. MDT, the in-person gathering is cancelled.

In an effort to lead in good decision-making as citizens of a country that is facing a potential crisis, we believe it is important to avoid contributing to that risk. We feel strongly that this is the responsible decision to protect the folks in our community who may be most vulnerable to the COVID-19 virus.

We are disappointed we won’t be seeing you all in person, but we still need your virtual presence and support this week!

Please stay tuned this week for a link to the live-stream feed, which will include a message from our keynote speaker Kris Tompkins, acceptance speeches from our 2020 awardees, and a special address from CEO Phil Powers.

The Annual Dinner is our largest fundraiser of the year. As we face increasing threats to our wild places and work to support a growing climbing population and volunteer network, we depend on this now-virtual event to help raise over $350,000 to fund our critical programs. 

We hope you will choose to stand with the AAC community from wherever you are to help ensure we reach our crucial goal. Thank you!

Please reach out to our team with any questions.

Heidi McDowell, Event Director [[email protected]]

Scott Wilton, Event Coordinator [[email protected]]


AAC and the Climbing Grief Fund Announce Grief Grants

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The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the ​Climbing Grief Grant​ is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a ​mental health directory​ to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

learn more about the Grief Fund, or apply for a grant.


February 18, 2020, Golden, CO—The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a mental health directory to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

Applicants may apply online for the Climbing Grief Grant. All applications will remain confidential.

The Climbing Grief Fund acts as a hub to connect individuals to effective mental health professionals and resources. CGF is working to evolve the conversation around grief and trauma in the climbing, alpinism, and ski mountaineering community.

The Climbing Grief Fund was founded in 2018 by professional climber Madaleine Sorkin after a series of tragedies in her community. Sorkin currently directs the CGF.

“Offsetting some of the cost of therapy for individuals impacted by climbing-related tragedy was the original idea that pulled me into starting CGF,” Sorkin said, “so it’s exciting for me to see these grants become a reality. The grants are a concrete service that we can provide for our community and my hope is that our community quickly uses them up and CGF secures funding to offer more in 2020.”

Sorkin is curious how well her community will take to using these grants and whether demand will exceed the 15 budgeted annually. Through increased donations, the Climbing Grief Fund would like to offer more of these unique grants and continue to expand their programming. Currently, CGF programming includes Climbing Grief Grants, Story Archive ProjectMental Health Directory and Resources, and Psychoeducation Workshops. The Story Archive Project contains CGF’s filmed interviews with community members about the impact of grief and loss and how the individual is moving forward.

An original film called The Color of Mourning b rings together these interviews and will premiere on April 23 at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.

To learn more about CGF and to donate, please visit https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund.

Thank you for your support of the American Alpine Club, the Climbing Grief Fund, and this important program.

Happy Valenclimbs Week!

Print these out and give them to your partner-in-climb for a chance at sparking a belaytionship. xo, your AAC

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Our Content Manager Emma doodled these with love, and with some creative input from the comments of last year’s post. Pun credits: 1st to @jendet2, 2nd to @drewpellitieri, 3rd to @loscambones, 4th to @_lord_jord, 5th to @ambeckman0. We <3 all of you.

In case you missed them, last year’s Valenclimbs are below.

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Let's Climb! Red Rocks Trip, April 2020

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April 19 - 25, 2020
 Red Rock, NV

Too much time in the gym this winter? Craving sunny sandstone? Excited to meet new climbing partners?

Join the AAC’s Education Director, Ron Funderburke, AAC's trips organizer Carol Kotchek, and your fellow Club members in the legendary climbing area Red Rock, Nevada. If you've been looking for the best time to go, the right partners, or the motivation to put together the logistics here’s your opportunity!

We have rented a huge, deluxe, AirBNB, all you need to do is get yourself to Vegas with your personal gear and your psych! Please note the AirBNB is bunk-style so be prepared to share rooms.

Basecamp Includes:

  • Six nights lodging within 25-minute drive to Red Rock ParkBreakfast and lunch to-go options.

  • Daily single pitch climbing with Ron Funderburke, AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine Guide.

  • Opportunity to learn new skills and debate best practices.

  • Discount on local guide services with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
    In past years this event has sold out. Not all AAC members wanting to attend have been included due to limited space.  This year we will have a short application to fill out. There are no pre-qualifications to attend this event. Our goal with the application process is to create a diverse group of climbers.

To receive an application please contact Carol Kotchek at [email protected] 
We will be letting applicants know by Feb 20 of their acceptance into the event. 

Let's Climb, Red Rock Trip Cost: $600
A $200 non-refundable deposit is required at the time of application acceptance. The remainder is due on or before Feb 29, 2020.

Mountain Dont's

In 1925 Albert H. MacCarthy had just led a successful first ascent of Mount Logan in Canada, composed of climbers from Canada, Britain and the United States. MacCarthy, an American and member of the American Alpine Club, wrote a number of reports and summaries of the expedition, including this list of Mountain “Dont’s.”

AAC Creates Yosemite Timeline with NativesOutdoors

"Yosemite Valley (Ahwahnee in the language of the Ahwahnechee, who originally inhabited the area) has long been a bastion for American climbing, from the first ascent of the NW Face of Half Dome (Tissaack) to the first free solo of El Cap (Tutocanula). The AAC has been there nearly every step of the complicated (and sometimes dark) way—from guiding the establishment of the park to fighting for climbing as a legitimate use of wilderness in National Parks and advocating for the preservation and 2018 improvements to Camp 4, the iconic climbers' campground."

We've worked with NativesOutdoors to put together this resource for all things Yosemite climbing and history. Check it out below.

Yosemite (Ahwahnee) THROUGH THE YEARS

Why We Climb

Alex Wildman—AAC Philadelphia Chapter Vice Chair

Any Mountain.

At the start of this year I was planning on setting out on my biggest climbing trip to date, Patagonia. Just the thought of walking into that range gave me chills and excitement at the same time. It was hard to know at times if I was really ready to take on any objective in one of the worlds great ranges, but I knew that I had to at least try. Training, gearing up, and plotting out logistics with my partner that lived on the other side of the country was as far as I made it on this objective. Two weeks before I was due to fly down to South American and find my way to El Chalten, I found myself at having to tackle a mountain that was certainly never on my “to-do” list.

Cancer.

I was having stomach discomfort for about two weeks and on the night of January 28th it woke me from my sleep. I got out of bed, doubled over in pain and thought to myself, what did I eat yesterday!? The pain subsided and as I tried to fall back to sleep my mind raced with possibilities of what that stomach pain could be. Being a nurse provided me to too many potential scenarios for me to let this go and I decided to go to my hospital to get it checked out.

As I drove to the hospital I just wanted to be laughed out of the ER, maybe someone would give me a talk about wasting resources, I just wanted this stomach pain to go away and find out I was being crazy. The Cat scan of my stomach only played into my greatest fear, soft tissue masses and grossly enlarged lymph nodes. I was told that night I would need a biopsy in the morning and that this was likely lymphoma. Flooded with emotions all I could manage to do was cry.

The fear was unreal. It was as if I was 8 pitches up, totally pumped, and just realizing I had not placed a single piece of gear. So I took a few really deep breaths and decided this was my new objective, this was a mountain I must climb and I found myself going to a familiar mind set. As I started to equate battling cancer to climbing I found the fear starting to fade.

Having the right mindset is everything when you are going for a big scary objective. Staying positive, moving forward, and keeping that goal in front of you is everything. Climbing taught me how to keep my head together, it taught me how to breath when I’m scared, it taught me that I can do the things that once seemed impossible. I would be relying on all the deeper lessons climbing had taught me and this gave me strength to keep putting one foot in front of the other. I related my 6 chemo treatment to 6 pitches and I knew that reaching the top was not an option, it was mandatory.

I was nervous to share my news on social media, but in doing so I found the collective strength in the climbing community and suddenly I felt like I had thousands of spotters. Everyone was reaching out to give love and support and with that it helped me to continue keeping a positive attitude, to continue up this new mountain. I had never felt such love from a community.

Fast forward to today. I’m finished with my chemo and I have my next PET scan coming up in early July. The results of this scan could spell remission. It’s unclear to me how I would have dealt with having cancer if I was not a climber, all I know is that climbing has given my life a greater purpose and taught me lessons that have helped me in my darkest hours.

I’m a climber and I can tackle any mountain.


Katie Campbell- Author, Speaker, and Founding Member of the Courage Club

In September of 2014, at the age of 31, I was deep in preparations for my first week-long, outdoor rock climbing adventure in Moab, Utah. I had no idea what to expect but I was nervous. I hadn’t worked out in over a year and was weaker than I had ever been in my life. I was still pretty bald from chemo and my skin was still burned from radiation. Heading out on this adventure just two weeks after completing a year’s worth of treatment for Stage 2 breast cancer felt a little like an act of insanity but it turned out to be a life saver.

A friend with cancer had told me about First Descents, a non-profit that provides week long adventure trips for young adults with cancer, and I had immediately signed up. Out on the rock the first day I was nervous. But I was pleasantly surprised that first day that after a year of being the weakest person in the room I seemed to have some semblance of strength. It was on the second day though that I met my greatest foe of the week.

I had jumped at the chance to take on what seemed like a pretty difficult climb but about 10 feet short of the top I could feel my strength fading fast. It had been an excruciating climb and my muscles were completely spent. I had been clawing, grasping, and dragging myself up, fighting for every inch. I took a moment and thought about all of the pain I’d endured, against my will, over the last year. If I could survive that pain, I could survive this pain, I thought to myself, and I finally pushed myself far enough to reach the last hold, a nice big jug, and hoisted myself up.

That became a defining moment for me. Since then my cancer has returned and it is now Stage 4. The damage cancer has done to my body makes it impossible for me to climb. But that one day out on the rocks illustrated for me exactly how strong and resilient I can be. Every time I feel overwhelmed or like I want to throw in the towel I think about that day and remember that if I can just push myself far enough I will eventually make it to the top.

View Katie's website here.


Stacy Bare-AAC Board Member and Director of the Sierra Club Outdoors

A couple years after I got out of the Army, I moved to Boulder, Colorado. Part of my life was going great, but part of my life was pretty miserable. I reached out to a friend who challenged me to climb the First Flatiron with him. I did and I was hooked. Climbing saved my life, quite literally. It pulled me out of my head and got me moving. It helped me find a sense of purpose, a community, a group of friends.


Libby Sauter- Big Wall Climber and Cardiac Nurse, 2016 Hall of Mountaineering Excellence Awardee

I have always sought after the higher perspective. As a child, I found my adventure high up on the roof of the house or in the tops of the trees and eventually on the walls of my local climbing gym. As a young adult, those proclivities towards exposure translated to a love of big walls. Places like Yosemite and Zion replaced the man made structures of my youth. And now, as a 31 year old, I've taken what I've learned over the years of climbing and translated it into my nursing work in countries like Ukraine, Iraq, Nepal, Kyrgyzstan and Libya. Without the grit, confidence and ability to suffer that climbing taught me, I doubt I would be able to handle the struggles that come with trying to help establish pediatric heart surgery programs in the developing world. 90 hour work week? Eh, at least my body doesn't hurt as much as the time I did the El Cap/Half Dome link up in 23:47. No water/electricity/internet in Libya today? Sounds like every other big wall I voluntarily attempt! Protein hungry because I can’t find good vegetarian food?? Still easier than that time we were in the remote Chilean rain forest putting up a 4,000 foot first ascent for 6 weeks and ran short on our food supply! How about that time I dropped the weeks old collection container of respiratory fluid (think: snot, spit, vomit) and it splashed all over me? Ok, that one was more disgusting than any other climbing related experience and I’ve been accidentally peed on, multiple times. When a patient is very sick and on the cusp of death, I harness the strength to keep a clear head that years of climbing above RURPS and ledges has taught me.

Thanks to climbing, I am a better nurse, and because of that, I hope to be a better human. 


Hans Florine-Holds Speed Record on the Nose of El Capitan

These days I get hired to speak to audiences—at corporations, conferences, trade shows, universities, rotary clubs, and small businesses—all over the world about climbing. As I say in those talks, what I do does not save lives in Africa or get kids off the street in America’s ghettos, yet I’m passionate about it. And apparently sharing that passion has a ripple effect. Many people, months or years after hearing my story, have approached me to say thanks. One person told me he found the courage to accept a job in China, which led to incredible life experiences and adventures. Another was inspired to begin working with Doctors With- out Borders, another to leave an unsatisfying job to travel the world, and still another to commit to a trip to trek Nepal in between corporate jobs.

Why on earth would anyone climb the Nose one hundred times (or 101 times, as of the date of this publishing)? I’m not sure that’s the right question. How about this one: Why on earth would anyone work a job they don’t care about, day after day, for 261 days a year, every year? Or this one: Why would someone who has a choice settle for “good enough” instead of going after great?

One of my favorite books is Jim Collins’s Good to Great. It talks about how corporations let good stand in the way of great. Jim just so happens to be a climber. When he set out to climb the Nose, he went for NIAD, and he climbed the whole thing—no jugging. That’s not just good, that’s great. Or as my coauthor Jayme says, “follow the heat,” which is another way of saying find your passion, your “Precious.”

Mine is El Capitan and specifically, the Nose route up El Capitan. For all of my adult life, I’ve been either directly or indirectly putting my energy into climbing that route, to the absolute best of my ability. It was a risky investment, riskier than say, building a career at Parker Seals, but the return has been huge. In a way, I can tie everything and everyone I love most in life back to the Nose. And the dividends are still coming. My next challenge is to climb El Capitan 200 times. I’m at 161, and yes, most of those have been the Nose. I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Hans Florine is a climbing legend in his own time. The 52-year-old holds the speed record, along with Alex Honnold, on the Nose route of El Capitan, a route Hans has climbed 101 times — more than anyone else ever has, and most likely ever will. In this excerpt from his new book, On the Nose: A Lifelong Obsession with Yosemite's Most Iconic Climb, Hans talks about how his devotion to climbing the Nose has enabled him to live a life according to his values.      


Eddie Schoen- Jackson Hole Mountain Guide

Lately, I’ve been trying to remind myself why I climb. It has always been about spending time in the mountains with good friends, a brief respite from the routines of life.  I have had many passions in my life, and climbing was the first one that taught me to fully enjoy the moment and appreciate the beauty of life, no matter where it takes me. 

The more I got into it, the more I realized that the mountains were where my heart is.  I got into the AMGA track and set my sights on guiding in a much bigger way.  Climbing, skiing, and pushing my own limits in the mountains is fun, but it’s no longer my main priority.  Now, I am blessed with the opportunity to share that experience with other people who might not otherwise have the chance to do it.  I have the best job in the world.  It’s hard, it’s challenging, it’s dangerous, and it’s generally not well paying.  Yet, I can’t think of anything else I would rather be doing with my time. 

After my first summer guiding in the Tetons, I have learned quite a few things about why I do what I do.  As a guide, I get to spend more time in the mountains than I ever have.  Yet at the same time, I get to go climbing with my friends far less than I ever used to.  My climbing goals, the very things that used to be more important than just about anything, are just a hobby. When your passion becomes your career, it can be a challenge to remember why you fell in love with it in the first place.  As a guide, I have had the opportunity to meet and climb with so many amazing people.  I have silently fell in love with every person I have climbed with.  Not in a romantic way, but in a family-like way.  Every client I get to work with is like a brother or sister to me.  I care deeply about each and every person that I get to work with in the mountains.  I climb for them now.  The most fantastic thing is that once I dropped the pressure to pursue my own personal climbing goals, I gained the freedom to simply have fun.  That is why I climb and what I strive to give to all of my climbing partners now, whether I am working, or climbing with friends… It’s all about having fun out there!


Miché Lozano- Latino Outdoors Flagstaff Ambassador

Honestly, rock climbing is one of the hardest things I've ever chosen to do. I don't remember why I decided to do it, but I remember how hard it was to even see it as "fun". For many months I would cry like a baby, I'd scream and throw temper tantrums, I'd be so stressed out and completely out of my comfort zone, cut up and peppered with bruises. Unable to center myself, progress felt non-existent. I had little patience for myself. People hated climbing with me; I was not a fun climbing partner. But there was something there, in the tiny bursts of courage that I'd manage to squeeze out, even when I thought I was all out of juice. I'd always feel good after completing something really difficult, all the terrible feelings and screaming that happened during the climb would seem so silly once it was over.

Eventually, things stop being so scary, and difficult tasks were fun challenges to overcome. You find newer, scarier, and more difficult things and your whole personality changes. Slowly, but you notice over time. This is me after my first ever crack climb outside. I was very patient with myself, I worked very hard. I am proud of my progress, not just in my climbing ability but also in the changes I've seen in my personality. I still have those frustrating moments, I feel the same fears and frustrations as when I first started climbing, this is good. It means I'm still pushing myself even now after all these months. I'll admit, I'm not that great at climbing in general, but I'm super stoked to continue growing a stronger mind and body!

Learn more about Latino Outdoors here


Ryan McCauley- Teacher, Climber, Accident Survivor

“So do you still climb?” the physician said during a recent physical exam as she grimaced at the scars on my knees and documented the limited range of motion I had when bending them. Her expression made me hesitate, but I saw no point in lying.

“Yes. The accident was my mistake. I know what I did wrong. It wasn’t gear failure…”

“Mmm hmmm…so you didn’t learn your lesson, did you?”

She was referring to a 60-foot fall I had taken two years earlier after accidentally rappelling off the end of my rope during a climbing descent.

I instantly felt discouraged. I had heard a variety of responses similar to hers and, while I understood they frequently came from a place of concern, the implicit “you-don’t-value-your-life” tone was hard to swallow. However, the comments had also given me pause to grapple with the question for myself: Why did I feel so compelled to continue climbing after enduring an event that could easily have killed me?

The answer was and still is simple: the passion and dedication required to tackle climbing challenges represent the values I aim to live out each day. As a perfectionist who struggles to balance both career and personal aspirations, climbing helps me take a step back from life demands when I most need it.

I use the same strategies to calmly analyze next steps for a tricky climbing move as I do when handling stresses in day-to-day life. I am a more open-minded individual because my climbing friends have pushed me to expand my comfort zone while offering inspiration and reassurance. Few things trigger a stronger sense of gratitude for the numerous privileges I experience each day than overlooking a gorgeous mountain I recognize not all people have access to. Most importantly, climbing reminds me I can’t effectively serve others in my job if I am sacrificing my own happiness. It is a sport that humbles me on a daily basis to find beauty in each situation and have faith in myself to tackle unknowns with patience and confidence.

The same skills that allow me to look at a blank face and truly believe I can find innovative ways to conquer it are the ones that helped me push through my accident recovery and return to work after 4 months when the doctors said my recovery would take a year. It was as much of a strugglefest as a difficult route often is, but the success tasted as magnificent as completing a project I had repeatedly failed on.

Climbing is a constant reminder to value my life and each obstacle in it that has shaped me. The sense of trust and focus it has instilled within me have allowed me to make some of the most courageous, spontaneous, and meaningful decisions of my life. So, yes, of course I still climb. I couldn’t imagine my life without it.

You can read more about Ryan's accident and recovery here.


Lauren Panasewicz- Director of Events and Outreach at ROMP

I used to climb just because I could.   

I grew up extremely active, climbing 14,000 foot mountains on weekends and traveling with my dad around the US and the world climbing peaks. Not only did we have able bodies that carried us to the summit, but we always had unbelievable weather. (Crazy, right?!) No matter where we were: Colorado 14ers, Mt. Hood, Mt. Rainier, Kilimanjaro, Gannett Peak, Granite Peak… We were never denied a summit day. I got so used to summiting as the norm and not the exception that I began to lose sight of the purpose of the journey.

Mobility is a concept that affects every human, every day. I was first introduced to adaptive sports as a volunteer ski instructor at Alyeska through the Challenge Alaska program. What started as a weekend hobby to get a free ski pass, turned into my biggest passion: helping people access the mountains.  

From there I quit my engineering job to work with people with disabilities full time through two non-profits. I was introduced to ROMP (The Range of Motion Project) while traveling in Ecuador in 2013 and immediately connected to their mission. ROMP helps amputees gain access to prosthetics in Central and South America. They believe that you are not disabled by a missing limb or broken body but by a missing prosthetic and broken healthcare system. ROMP empowers people by giving them mobility. There may be no greater gift.

My outlook on the mountains and summit days has changed over the last few years. I did a training hike with ROMP’s elite climbing team on Mt. Bierstadt last summer in Colorado. Stream crossings where I did not hesitate, rock scrambles I ran up like a kid again, and snowfields that I tiptoed across without issue were obstacles that the ROMP athletes struggled to overcome, I was floored by their determination.  

Not everyone made it to the summit that day- a concept I had yet to understand. The ascent  wasn’t about the summit, though- it was about trying. What I once viewed as so easily accessible and available, I now saw through a different lens. The mountains I grew up loving are still so inaccessible to so many people. My biggest passions are skiing and climbing, two things where, I believe, people with disabilities are not limited by their disability but by access to proper technologies.

I climb now to demonstrate what is possible when people are given the tools they need to fully realize their human potential.

I climb for those still waiting to receive the help they need to get back on their feet.
I climb now for those who cannot.

Learn more about the Range of Motion Project


Jessica Hamel—Big City Mountaineers

Photo by: Josh Vertucci

I didn’t grow up in the outdoors. Sure I went on the occasional car camping trip on the coast of Rhode Island, but I was what you may like to call a ‘city girl.’ The outdoors first made its impact on me during study abroad in South Africa. For some odd reason, I joined an outdoors group and during my six months there I hiked to a hut in the middle of nowhere, slept under the stars and saw the moon rise and set from my sleeping bag. I was totally out of place, yet felt this strong sense of belonging and acceptance.

Over the years, as I dove more into the outdoors, I’ve felt myself becoming stronger, braver, bolder and more audacious through my outdoor experiences. And not only in regards to outdoor pursuits, but in my everyday life. The outdoors has had a profound, life-changing impact on my life. It has inspired me so much, that I knew I wanted to introduce others to the outdoors because I knew the power it would have on them.

Photo by: Josh Vertucci

In March 2017, the Big City Mountaineers - Summit for Someone program gave me the opportunity to pursue an outdoor dream of my own while helping to raise money to introduce under-resource youth to the outdoors via transformational week-long backpacking trips. I joined three other women, all from different backgrounds, to climb Pico De Orizaba in Mexico. Climbing to 18,491 ft was a totally new experience for me and a majority of the group.

During the climb I thought a lot about one quote I read from a Big City Mountaineers youth, “Each step, each breath, it is the most memorable time of my life.” As I look back at the climb, the summit wasn’t the most memorable moment. It was suffering through our acclimatization days, listening to other climbers’ stories in the hut and  the first sight of the sun on summit day - it was the journey. But, what was most memorable, hasn’t even happened yet. It’s the excitement for the Big City Mountaineers youth that will head out on their own summit days this summer, the memories they’ll create and the impact it will have on them. I’ve been lucky enough to grow through my experiences outdoors and I can only hope these kids get the opportunity to do that too.

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If you’ve been impacted by the outdoors, I urge you to pay it forward and get involved with Big City Mountaineers. You can volunteer on a week-long expedition during the summer with the youth or you can help to raise money for the programs by heading out on your own climb through the Summit for Someone program.

Inspired by the Women’s Climb? We’ll be releasing a short film soon, but you can check out photos and memories from the climb on Facebook and donate here.


Chris Noble— Author, Photographer and Climber

Chris Noble rappels off a climb in Thailand. 

I just published a book titled Why We Climb, so you’d think it would be easy for me to wax poetic about the reasons I climb— but ha-ha, fat chance. Climbing is far too rich and sprawling, too subtle and complex, to be boiled down to easy answers. That’s one of the many reasons I love it. Climbing refuses to be boxed in, limited, or defined. In fact, climbing is not one thing at all, it’s a broad spectrum of related activities, each of which imbues life with passion, meaning and purpose—qualities sadly lacking in modern society. If only for a moment, climbing allows us to be the hero or our own personal story, giving us the opportunity to be better than we believed possible. Climbing transports us to the most wild and beautiful regions of the earth introducing us to life-long I would do anything for you best friends along the way. Perhaps most importantly, in a world ever more synthetic and virtual, climbing reconnects us with the primal living earth, gifting us with true wealth—adventures that can be told and re-lived long after we’re gone. As Chris Sharma said, “I can’t think of any reasons not to climb.”

Check out Chris's book here


Judy Fog— Climber, Mom

I played ice hockey for twenty-five years. When I was in my mid-sixties, I decided it was time to find a new adventure. My daughter Robyn, an accomplished climber, suggested that I try climbing with her. After one visit to the gym, I was hooked. I've been climbing several times a week ever since. When I first took up the sport, I suffered back pain from severe spinal stenosis and at times could hardly walk. Within a few weeks of starting to climb, the pain went away and has never returned. I have no way of knowing if climbing had anything to do with this "remission", but I know that a strong core contributes to back health, so I consider rock climbing to be my magic pill. 

I have always believed that physical activity is the key to the fountain of youth, so exercise has been a part of my daily life for years. I routinely walk twenty miles a week, and in the summer I swim and frequently hike long distances in the Hudson Valley. In the winter, aside from shoveling snow, my husband and I ski. All these activities contribute to my physical and emotional well-being. 

Climbing has been a wonderful addition to my exercise repertoire for many reasons. It is obviously a great workout for building core strength and maintaining balance and muscle mass— all things which are crucially important for older people. Equally importantly, it’s just plain fun! I have met an amazingly diverse group of people who come together because of their love of the sport. Some days we feel we could climb Everest and other days we can't get off the ground but we keep coming back for more because the challenge is always there and the taste of success is so sweet. Recently I climbed (well, worked my way up) a 5.12, which has been a goal of mine for a long time. It felt so good!

I also competed in my first bouldering competition several weeks ago. I'm not much of a boulderer, but I had a blast! I came in fourth in the Women's masters division, which had a minimum age of 40. I'm 71. I often ask myself: Why are my climbing friends 20 or more years younger than I am? Where are my contemporary friends who could do a 13-mile day hike? I know there probably are a lot of older people out there who are like me, but perhaps not as many as there should be. It's a shame because it's just not that hard to get up and move. The rewards are immeasurable.           

AAC Grief Fund Launches with 24hrs into the Black

Noble_Sorkin_Madaleine_Black_Canyon-301 (1).jpg

We're proud to launch 24-Hours into the Black, a fundraiser to help kickstart AAC's Climber Grief Fund: a program to support grieving climbers in need. At the end of this month, climbers Madaleine Sorkin and Mary Harlan will attempt to link 3 major routes in the Black Canyon in 24 hours. Madaleine says the effort is "for the nourishment we can find in the void, in the Black, and for the fierce and gentle persistence to trust life enough to risk returning time and time again.” 

Learn more about the journey here, follow Madaleine and Mary and donate on their fundraiser page, and look for updates on AAC’s Facebook

We're hopeful that Madaleine and Mary's incredible efforts to come on these climbs will kick off a positive beginning for a fund dedicated to helping climbers through dark times. 


Happy Mothers Day!

"I feel like one of my most important roles as a mother is sharing the experience of mountains with my daughter." -Ammi Midstokke

"I feel like one of my most important roles as a mother is sharing the experience of mountains with my daughter." -Ammi Midstokke

We're sending hugs to all the moms out there who have encouraged and supported us, whether that's meant putting up topropes, helping us identify birds at the crag, looking at our photos when we return, or— in the case of AAC Member Ammi Midstokke and her daughter Beverly— taking us on wild and formative adventures.  

Read about Ammi and "B"s climbs and explorations here, and keep an eye out for more from this dynamic duo in the 2018 Guidebook to Membership. 

Thank you to all the strong mothers in this community. We're grateful for you!


2018 Annual Benefit Dinner: 40th Anniversary of Americans on K2

October 12, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club is proud to celebrate the 40-year-anniversary of Americans on the summit of K2 at the 2018 Annual Benefit Dinner. The event will feature Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner as the keynote speaker and will be presented by LOWA and Global Rescue. The Dinner serves as one of the largest annual gatherings within the climbing community, celebrating the history of our sport with some of climbing’s brightest stars.

Kaltenbrunner will speak February 24, 2018, at The Fairmont Copley Plaza Hotel (138 Saint James Avenue, Boston, MA). Kaltenbrunner has been called “a Queen Among Kings” by Outside Magazine. She is the second woman to climb the fourteen 8,000 meter peaks and the first woman to do so without the use of supplementary oxygen or high altitude porters. K2 was the final challenge, which she summited via the lesser climbed North Pillar route.

Additional weekend festivities are open to the public and kick off Friday, February 23 with the Annual Membership Meeting and Climbers' Gathering at Central Rock Gym (74 Acton St, Watertown, MA 02472). The Climbers’ Gathering includes a food truck, libations, and a star-studded climbing competition. Additionally, Saturday morning’s special panel discussions, at the Fairmont Copley Plaza, are open to public. Panelists will discuss topics affecting today’s climbing community and reflect on our community’s past.

The main event of the weekend—the Annual Benefit Dinner—begins at 6pm on the 24th. The evening gathers all generations of climbers for an inspiring evening benefiting the Club’s programs. In addition to Kaltenbrunner's keynote address, attendees will enjoy fine dining, beer and wine, live and silent auctions, and acceptance speeches from this year’s awardees.

The event is expected to sell out and tickets are limited. For more information and to reserve your spot, visit americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-dinner. Registration closes on February 14, or when sold out.

About the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

 

AAC Purchases Campground in Rumney, NH

Naomi Risch warms up on Underdog at Main Cliff, Rumney, NH.&nbsp;Photo: AAC member Anne Skidmore Photography

Naomi Risch warms up on Underdog at Main Cliff, Rumney, NH. Photo: AAC member Anne Skidmore Photography

The AAC has purchased a 15 acre campground in Rumney, New Hampshire, within walking distance of Rumney Rocks Climbing Area.

"Rumney is one of the country's finest sport-climbing destinations,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “With visitation on the rise, and with more than 22 million Americans and Canadians within weekend striking distance, the American Alpine Club is proud to participate in a sustainable long-term camping solution for this popular spot.”

The Rumney Campground is now part of the AAC's growing lodging network which also includes: Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch, Gunks campground, New River Gorge campground, and Hueco Rock Ranch. 

Book your stay.


August 28, 2017, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) has purchased a 15 acre campground in Rumney, New Hampshire, within walking distance of Rumney Rocks Climbing Area.

"Rumney is one of the country's finest sport-climbing destinations,” said AAC CEO Phil Powers. “With visitation on the rise, and with more than 22 million Americans and Canadians within weekend striking distance, the American Alpine Club is proud to participate in a sustainable long-term camping solution for this popular spot.”

The Rumney Campground will build upon the success of the current campground and create a place for climbers to stay and for the climbing community to gather near the popular Northeast climbing area. The beautiful 15-acre property sits along the Baker River in Rumney, NH and was previously owned and operated by Tom and Marsha Camara. The AAC will continue the good work of the Camara’s by providing a communal first-come first-serve camping option. Look for a few private reservable sites to be added soon for those wanting a guaranteed spot before arrival. Porta-potties and access to potable water at the barn will remain the same through the end of 2017.

The AAC plans to open the existing barn to campers and climbers as a community space and a place to gather when the weather turns. In addition, the AAC will add bathrooms and showers to the barn.

The campground is located across the street from the Meadows and Parking Lot Wall areas on the east side of the crags. Rumney Rocks, mainly known as a sport climbing destination, has close to 1,000 routes for all ability levels (from 5.3 to 5.15) and also offers traditional climbing and bouldering options.

“With the Rumney Campground now part of the AAC's growing lodging network, we are looking forward to welcoming climbers from around the Northeast and the world to experience this wonderful place, learn, challenge themselves, and meet old and new friends," said Powers.